Yeah, it's the perfect spot on consoles for non-competitive games.After about a week with my C3 I'm in love. Wish more games supported 40 FPS. I tried Ratchet and Spider-Man and it's such a great sweet spot.
Everything you need is in the OP (which is always updated).So I bit the bullet and ordered a LG C4 42". I'll be using it as my pc monitor mostly to game on. Anything I should know? I haven't owned an OLED before specifically, although I did own an old (circa 2012) Panny Plasma. Any set up tips? Things I should know concerning burn in, using it as a monitor, etc?
So I bit the bullet and ordered a LG C4 42". I'll be using it as my pc monitor mostly to game on. Anything I should know? I haven't owned an OLED before specifically, although I did own an old (circa 2012) Panny Plasma. Any set up tips? Things I should know concerning burn in, using it as a monitor, etc?
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lwijdprzuk4
Here's my video testing the G4 in full broad daylight playing Ratchet and Clank Rift Apart in P40L0-optimized settings on PC with max graphical settings at 4K 144 Hz. IT LOOKS INCREDIBLE. SO BRIGHT. It's hard to capture even in this HDR Dolby Vision-filmed iPhone 15 PM footage just how GOOD this looks and plays. Omfg.
Do you intend to use it as a main monitor, or just media/games? You can consider hiding your taskbar and either using a black wallpaper (double check it's pure black with a color picker) or something that isn't static. You can also make use of the screen off feature, which can be quickly used with voice commands, which will turn off the screen but not the entire TV (for purposes of Windows not freaking out and changing monitor orientations etc.)
If you're sensitive to input latency and play competitive games, set up a game optimizer preset in addition to FMM, as you may notice the increased input latency in FMM.
If you have any weird issues, even things like headphone static, ensure you have a proper HDMI cable (Zeskit Maya is a good choice).
LG OLEDs only have 100 Mbit Ethernet ports but had WiFi 5 (average 200 Mbps) through the 2022 models and WiFi 6 (600-900 Mbps) on 2023 and later models so that's where the recommendation comes from. WiFi speeds are totally dependent on connection strength though, you can get lower speeds with poor connections and a bad enough connection can lead to packet loss that would result in buffering on streaming content. The actual best option for connecting an LG OLED is a USB to Gigabit Ethernet adapter.P40L0 , I remember somewhere that you mentioned it's better to use Wifi instead of Ethernet on the C2. Any idea if that's still the case?
I had some recent buffering issues on Disney+ and I'm wondering if I should switch to Ethernet when I can.
P40L0 , I remember somewhere that you mentioned it's better to use Wifi instead of Ethernet on the C2. Any idea if that's still the case?
I had some recent buffering issues on Disney+ and I'm wondering if I should switch to Ethernet when I can.
LG OLEDs only have 100 Mbit Ethernet ports but had WiFi 5 (average 200 Mbps) through the 2022 models and WiFi 6 (600-900 Mbps) on 2023 and later models so that's where the recommendation comes from. WiFi speeds are totally dependent on connection strength though, you can get lower speeds with poor connections and a bad enough connection can lead to packet loss that would result in buffering on streaming content. The actual best option for connecting an LG OLED is a USB to Gigabit Ethernet adapter.
Most streaming applications like Netflix, Disney+, Amazon Video, etc. don't really need faster than 100 Mbps connection speeds as their data rates are quite low for their content and would benefit more from the connection stability of Ethernet vs the throughput of WiFi. It's when you get into things like streaming a Plex library where the bitrates can get much higher and 100 Mbps may not be enough for the highest quality 4K content with lossless audio and that's where an adapter comes into play.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PIef8iRZhLE&t=445s
Thanks guys, I think I'll stick with WiFi then. Disney+ Hotstar is the only one I've had trouble with and that's probably more to do with the app itself.the ethernet port is limited to 100mbps while wifi can support higher is what I imagine the reasoning is
it might matter if you stream very high quality plex rips, but you should have no issues with stream services on ethernet
For the autodimming you can try to also turn off the Log Adjustment, but TPC/GSR now correctly work as they are intended so you the TV will notice you're staring to a static image/background/text it will start to progressively dim to avoid image retention/burn in. As soon as you move the mouse or just scroll the page a bit it will fully recover.I've been using C3 for about a week with my PC and PS5 and so far I love the picture quality but there are some minor annoyances that, while not dealbreakers, would be pretty nice if they can be fixed. Most of these are from when using it as a PC monitor.
- Auto dimming: this is super minor since so far I only had this issue with 1-2 sites I rarely used though it would really suck if this affects more than that. This is mostly when I'm reading some web novels on a somewhat bright background. For some reason the dark mode of those sites made the background brown-ish instead of black (I don't have this problem with black or grey background) and even with constant scrolling, the screen would dim after a while. It would stop dimming when I move the mouse around or quickly scroll the page up and down. I think the only OLED panel care settings I still have on are the logo one at medium and screen shift and I turned off all power saving settings.
- Audio pass through: I have my soundbar (Samsung N850 with rear speakers) connected to the TV via HDMI ARC and set it to Bitstream and pass through. I don't have issues with video with Dolby Atmos, etc. so it actually does pass through stuff but I don't think games output surround sound properly. Windows only detected 2 channels and I'm not sure if the games just see that and decide to only output stereo or what. It's similar with PS5. I used to connect my PC and PS5 directly to sound bar (can't do that now because the soundbar doesn't support HDMI 2.1) and they had correct directional sound back then, now it feels more 200-ish degrees instead of the usual 360. For PS5, I only tried with FFVII Rebirth but I remember being pretty impressed with how the sounds are coming from the different directions back before I changed to my current setup but now it's more front loaded.
- Turning off (or turning on) the soundbar causes the screen to flicker (just turn off then on, not constant flickering). This is especially annoying because my soundbar has auto power off when there's no signal (apparently there's no option to turn this off in D.input and ARC mode from what I gathered) so it'd turn itself off while I read stuff or browsing sites with no sound and the screen would just turn off and on and it's super annoying. My previous Samsung TV doesn't do this so I'm wondering if there's anyway to prevent soundbar turning on or off to affect the TV.
I also noticed some settings' menu lag after a while, but honestly you shouldn't change them anymore once everything is setup for every input and SDR/HDR/DV (both for movies and games).The settings menu on my C2 has gotten crazy laggy. Turning off the TV completely fixes the menu for a little bit but then it turns extremely laggy again. Started happening after the update a couple of weeks ago. I've also tried the memory wipe thing but that doesn't fix anything.
It does not lag in the home menu or the actual os, only in the settings and game optimizer menus.
I'd be fine if it recovers by scrolling the page a bit. I do scroll down constantly because I'm reading paragraphs of text but the TV probably still sees that as static so it'd dim and it would only recover when I repeatedly scroll up and down or move the mouse around, which is kinda annoying to do when I'm reading. I've googled about this a bit and saw some people even having this issue while watching something like Dune so I guess the TV has a pretty broad definition of what it considers static.For the autodimming you can try to also turn off the Log Adjustment, but TPC/GSR now correctly work as they are intended so you the TV will notice you're staring to a static image/background/text it will start to progressively dim to avoid image retention/burn in. As soon as you move the mouse or just scroll the page a bit it will fully recover.
Also make sure to have everything as suggested in the OP both for the TV and PC.
For the audio/soundbar I can't help as I don't use that model so you should search on Google/Reddit on how to properly setup it in Windows.
You will still get screen dimming even when playing games, I saw it happen frequently on Baldur's Gate 3 when there was a ton UI elements on screen during some late game fights. This is without logo dimming on.I'd be fine if it recovers by scrolling the page a bit. I do scroll down constantly because I'm reading paragraphs of text but the TV probably still sees that as static so it'd dim and it would only recover when I repeatedly scroll up and down or move the mouse around, which is kinda annoying to do when I'm reading. I've googled about this a bit and saw some people even having this issue while watching something like Dune so I guess the TV has a pretty broad definition of what it considers static.
As for the audio setup, I did look around and, while I didn't find the result for this specific model, I saw a bunch of people having similar issue. Some can fix it with just setting the output to Bitstream+Pass Through (which is my current setting) while the others recommended using CRU to force the Windows to output 5.1, 7.1 audio to the TV, which I tried but it just makes things worse because now the audio that's supposed to play on the back speakers would just get cut off as if there's no channel for it to play on. My current setup do pass through properly (I guess?) as stuff like DTS and Dolby Atmos can be pass through to the soundbar and played correctly, just that some games (and windows) only recognize 2 channels.
Also, anything on my last issue about turning ARC device on/off causing the screen to flash (it's like it the screen turn off for 1-2 seconds)? I guess it flashes because it's switching the output so is there any setting that prevent it from switching the output automatically?
That's one issue I can't seem to find anyone talking about and I've been running into this issue everyday because I use this as a monitor and it's driving me crazy. It's half the fault of my soundbar not allowing disabling auto-power off and I saw a lot of complaints about that but I wouldn't mind it as much if the screen doesn't flash when the soundbar turn off by itself. My current work around is to just turn the soundbar off myself if I know I'm not playing any audio for a while but that's not ideal.
I'd be fine if it recovers by scrolling the page a bit. I do scroll down constantly because I'm reading paragraphs of text but the TV probably still sees that as static so it'd dim and it would only recover when I repeatedly scroll up and down or move the mouse around, which is kinda annoying to do when I'm reading. I've googled about this a bit and saw some people even having this issue while watching something like Dune so I guess the TV has a pretty broad definition of what it considers static.
Never experienced this on my G3 and I regularly use it with my PC every day now.You will still get screen dimming even when playing games, I saw it happen frequently on Baldur's Gate 3 when there was a ton UI elements on screen during some late game fights. This is without logo dimming on.
I'll have to check the setting for TPC/GSR later but otherwise it should be pretty much as the suggestions in the OP.Never experienced this on my G3 and I regularly use it with my PC every day now.
The dimming happens but only on real static scenes, but as soon as something moves it goes back to normal as it should.
Are you sure you're on latest firmware version + followed all the suggestions in the OP?
With latest firmware there's no more need to access the Service Menu and change/disable TPC/GSR as LG fixed them from 2022 models and newer.I'll have to check the setting for TPC/GSR later but otherwise it should be pretty much as the suggestions in the OP.
Firmware should also be latest but I've seen people saying that sometimes they had to manually download and install the firmware from the website instead of using the built in updater so I'll check that later too.
Just checked and my C3's firmware is 03.30.73 which I assume is the latest version?Never experienced this on my G3 and I regularly use it with my PC every day now.
The dimming happens but only on real static scenes, but as soon as something moves it goes back to normal as it should.
Are you sure you're on latest firmware version + followed all the suggestions in the OP?
It could just work differently on the C3. Definitely no dimming in the same circumstances on my G3.I'll have to check the setting for TPC/GSR later but otherwise it should be pretty much as the suggestions in the OP.
Firmware should also be latest but I've seen people saying that sometimes they had to manually download and install the firmware from the website instead of using the built in updater so I'll check that later too.
There shouldn't be a difference in this regard, especially considering C3 is already dimmer so TPC/GSR should be less aggressive.It could just work differently on the C3. Definitely no dimming in the same circumstances on my G3.
Has the C3 got the same heatsink as the G3? That helps maintain brightness levels. I'm sure the combo of MLA+heatsink must be having an effect on it somehow. I know there is always less dimming on OLEDs that have one. My A90J was the same.There shouldn't be a difference in this regard, especially considering C3 is already dimmer so TPC/GSR should be less aggressive.
If you're going after accuracy, disable dynamic tonemapping. That will also reduce the brightness. Peak Brightness is always at max for HDR content since you're trying to take advantage of what the panel can do for HDR content. It's only changed for SDR where you may wish to boost brightness.If I find the recommended HDR settings incredibly bright and really hurts my eyes (C1 here), what's the best settings to lower that least affect the picture quality / accuracy? Is it OLED Pixel Brightness? 'Peak Brightness' is somehow disabled (greyed out) while showing a value of high.
It is 0. You might want to play with 10 though with 1080p content as the AA upscaling on these TVs is damn good.A question I'm sure has been answered a ton of times already:
But what is the source natural setting for sharpness for LG OLEDs? Specifically the C3s
If you're going after accuracy, disable dynamic tonemapping. That will also reduce the brightness. Peak Brightness is always at max for HDR content since you're trying to take advantage of what the panel can do for HDR content. It's only changed for SDR where you may wish to boost brightness.
I've seen people say 0 or 10 over the years. Stick your nose up to the screen and see if you can tell the difference, otherwise just leave it at default. It's at 10 on FILMMAKER mode which leads me to believe that the neutral setting is 10 as that mode disables all other picture processing.A question I'm sure has been answered a ton of times already:
But what is the source natural setting for sharpness for LG OLEDs? Specifically the C3s
Oh, I'm already using HGIG instead of DTM. I'm guessing I can only adjust OLED pixel brightness then... I find that I need to tweak this from the universally recommended 100 all the way down to ~30+ to not find it too glaring lol. For reference, I'm in a tiny, dimly lit room sealed off from all natural lighting, sitting about 2m (6.5ft) away from my TV.
It is 0. You might want to play with 10 though with 1080p content as the AA upscaling on these TVs is damn good.
It's a very long standing argument, but 0 is the actual neutral value, while 10 is not "added sharpening" but it just introduces a proprietary LG upscaling algorithm for sub-4K contents, which is good (except for gaming where this thing is done by the consoles/PC/games themselves, so you would just add unnecessary input lag, so better stick with 0 there), that's why it's still 10 in FMM after all these years.I've seen people say 0 or 10 over the years. Stick your nose up to the screen and see if you can tell the difference, otherwise just leave it at default. It's at 10 on FILMMAKER mode which leads me to believe that the neutral setting is 10 as that mode disables all other picture processing.
If you're setting it all the way to 30 you shouldn't be using the HDR picture modes at all. Just stick to SDR. Forcing OLED Pixel Brightness that low is removing all dynamic range from the image and you're probably hurting the picture more than just sticking to SDR presentations. The proper way to tweak game brightness would be to reduce the peak brightness setting in the games themselves, not to use the OLED Pixel Brightness setting. But really, just play in SDR.
No, all icons are just aesthetic and will behave the same except PC.P40L0 On my current CX... do I also need to change the icon for each source to Game Console? For both my Apple TV 4K, Cable Setop Box and Xbox Series ?
Then this doesn't make sense? :)No, all icons are just aesthetic and will behave the same except PC.
Well, most users here are console gamers so using Game Console icon (instead of PC) is recommended both for console gaming but also for consuming movies/TV shows from the same device.
It's safe as long as you didn't touch TPC/GSR inside the hidden Service Menu.Is it really safe to turn off screen move and adjust logo brightness? Is it a improve screen quality at expense of tv lifespan kinda thing?
is this for older models also?It's safe as long as you didn't touch TPC/GSR inside the hidden Service Menu.
Pixel Shift is more annoying that beneficial now with those two working as intended while Adjust Logo Brightness often tends to dim entire scenes (and not only logos) too often. Also not actually needed with TPC/GSR working now.
From 2022+ models, yes (you can find this note in both Service Menu and Color Control guides).is this for older models also?
the guide says to turn TPC/GSR off
I doubt it as game mode will have all picture processing turned off to reduce latency. There is a reason LG have some of the shortest response times.G4 has been out for a while and still haven't found out if it's better in color banding in game mode. Anyone got any info on that?
Samsung and Sony have comparable input lag and are way better in that regard, besides they should give users the option at the expense of input lag.I doubt it as game mode will have all picture processing turned off to reduce latency. There is a reason LG have some of the shortest response times.