Hey guys. Sorry, but I think this got lost in the shuffle about 6 pages back, and I really need help.
Hey guys. Sorry, but I think this got lost in the shuffle about 6 pages back, and I really need help.
It seems an handshaking issue which may have a lot of causes behind, the most common being the cable not being good.
Triple check all settings for both TV and PS5 are the same as suggested in the OP, then also try to look at another HDMI 2.1 Certified cable (which should include a QR Code to scan and verify it).
Also try a direct connection with HDMI1 for video and HDMI2 for eARC, don't use receivers.
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It's the cable that came with the PS5 and it's plugged directly into the tv from the console. It mostly has the issue when VRR kicks in when launching a game
I also had issues with the provided cable of Xbox.
I would try a better one to start.
Does the C1 have technology that makes 30fps feel less awful? I just bought Breath of the Wild and it feels better than other 30fps games that I've played.
LG OLEDs have very low input lag in their game modes, depending on what TV you came from it's possible that's what you're noticing.
That looks really good, I'll definitely be trying that later.
You can try that, but just knowing that input lag will spike as high as almost 10x compared to regular Game Optimizer preset or ALLM + FMM.
For example on C1 with Motion Interpolation at 60hz you will go from around 13ms to 96ms input lag, as measured by Rtings...
Is the SDR image using game mode supposed to be very dim on the LG C2? It feels like the Oled Switch screen looks brighter playing Zelda and SDR gaming doesn't look good in general. I have all the settings set to the way it's posted on OP and have power saving and auto brightness off.
Crank its OLED Light to 100.
If it's still too dim you can use the Color Control app via PC to force enable Peak Brightness to Medium or High (but don't go over 90 in Game Mode with PB High).
Or you can use the forced HLG HDR method for Switch input only here
I was just noticing this with TotK. I started playing a couple of hours ago and it feels so much smoother than The Witcher 3 (PS5) on Quality Mode.
I do have it at 100 and it still seemed really dim to me. I'll look into that color control app, but it sounds a bit scary to me as I have never attempted something like that. Also is there a reason you wouldn't wan to go over 90 oled light with PB high?
Image retention and burn in risk will be higher in SDR when cranked to max compared to HDR.
Before trying ColorControl maybe try the HLG HDR method which doesn't require it.
I will definitely give that method a try tomorrow. Thanks for all the help!
The Witcher 3 (RED Engine in general iirc) has particularly bad input latency so you'll definitely comparing one of the worst experiences to one of the best jumping between those. :-P
How to do a "Short Break in process" as soon as you buy your LG OLED
Just wanted to share some thoughts for those who just bought an LG OLED, especially a G3 or C3.
These TV will actually need a "break in" period before really stabilizing their picture and therefore what you see on Day 1 is not actually representative of the picture you will have when everything has been settled.
This will also include some initial uniformity issues you may have as soon as you turn the TV on (e.g. "jail bars", darker spots, pink tints and so on) as well as an evident "black crush" in all modes.
Most if not all of uniformity issues and Black Crush can literally fade away over time.
But How long does it take?
Well, in general around 200 hours will be necessary for the panel to properly stabilize, but if you are in a hurry and/or don't want to wait 1 year before making sure the panel has actually cleaned/improved itself (for warranty reasons) you can speed up this process.
This is my usual "Short Break in Process" I always do when buying a new LG OLED and which I did also on G3, which produced really satisfying results so far.
I actually hadn't big issues at first, just some very slight banding on 5% gray slides, a bit of pink tint in the center and noticeable black crush even with correct settings.
Then I started my process:
You will just add unnecessary strain to the panel at this point, shortening its life span and you actually won't need it as the TV will regularly do its shorter compensation cycles when on idle.
Just don't unplug it from power outlet when turning it off and that's it.
Enjoy :)
-P
These TV will actually need a "break in" period before really stabilizing their picture and therefore what you see on Day 1 is not actually representative of the picture you will have when everything has been settled.
This will also include some initial uniformity issues you may have as soon as you turn the TV on (e.g. "jail bars", darker spots, pink tints and so on) as well as an evident "black crush" in all modes.
Most if not all of uniformity issues and Black Crush can literally fade away over time.
But How long does it take?
Well, in general around 200 hours will be necessary for the panel to properly stabilize, but if you are in a hurry and/or don't want to wait 1 year before making sure the panel has actually cleaned/improved itself (for warranty reasons) you can speed up this process.
This is my usual "Short Break in Process" I always do when buying a new LG OLED and which I did also on G3, which produced really satisfying results so far.
I actually hadn't big issues at first, just some very slight banding on 5% gray slides, a bit of pink tint in the center and noticeable black crush even with correct settings.
Then I started my process:
- Put the TV on Vivid (yes, Vivid) and watch some very bright and long content from YT, like this video from The Tourister for around 4 hours straight or more;
- Quit Vivid and now go setup all the presets like suggested in the OP for all inputs and signals (it will take you a while and you should obviously let SDR/HDR/DV contents play in the background while you do so)
- Once everything is properly setup (and usually before going to bed) go to General -> OLED Panel Care -> Pixel Cleaning -> Launch a Full Pixel Cleaning while on Sleep
- Don't touch the TV for at least 2 hours. That's why it's best to actually go to sleep as well ;)
- That's it. Next time you will turn on the TV and re-do the 5% gray slide check it should be MUCH better than before uniformity wise (in my case all issues where literally gone, except for a very minor pink tint left but on the edge on the display, not at the center). If you still see black crush, repeat Step 3 but just once more, and you're good to go (black crush was gone for me on the second one).
You will just add unnecessary strain to the panel at this point, shortening its life span and you actually won't need it as the TV will regularly do its shorter compensation cycles when on idle.
Just don't unplug it from power outlet when turning it off and that's it.
Enjoy :)
-P
This happens to me all the time on the PS5. Just messing around I discovered a way that resolves it 90% of the time. Press the Input button, click on Home Dashboard. You should then see the PS5 screen appear. The Home Dashboard seems to do some handshake refresh.
Very informative when/if I get my first LG OLED I will definitely follow your guide, I'm assuming it's still good for a 55C2?
You're right, it seems to be down.
I've re-uploaded it with further improvements (in part rolled back from my G3 testing).
Here's the new one for 2019-2022 Series:
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Thanks. the default settings are really close (unless I thinkered with them earlier, I don't remember). Well, I have the B2, so most of those settings are blocked in game mode, maybe that's why. Anyway, I'm really happy to have done that.You're right, it seems to be down.
I've re-uploaded it with further improvements (in part rolled back from my G3 testing).
Here's the new one for 2019-2022 Series:
Yeah, if you see them blocked (but still set up as the chart) you're good still.
G3 is sounding great, and nice work on the settings and charts mate. All this G3 chat has made me recalibrate my G1 with DV IQ, was really pleasant to see that my panel has increased from 770nits to 890 since I bought it 2000 panel hour's ago, just goes to show that they really do get brighter.
Yep, they really do but just keep in mind that DV IQ (and AI Brightness) makes sense only if you also watch movies in a bright room regularly, otherwise it's always better to keep the gamma in check with it disabled if you mostly consume those in a dark room.
Oh and G3 is amazing man, I really can't wait to read your opinion about it if you will also upgrade in the future.
I honestly would avoid S95B and also S95C (even if this is much better than the first "beta" product) for many reasons (the main ones being the noticeably less accuracy out of the box which will require a professional calibration to be on par or better than LG Filmmaker Modes, the absence of DV, the thermal throttling and aggressive ABL, the very bad track record of Samsung firmware updates and the higher risk of burn in).
I would just wait for G3 big price drops and/or see if C4 next year will also obtain the MLA panel for a cheaper price.
Also around the same period with G4 launch, G3 would become a lot cheaper and with all firmware updates on top, which should be even more interesting if you can wait.
There is no way I could get a 65 inch g3 for a similar price that the s95b is now. It's close to 4 times cheaper, even if it has some issues I think it's probably overall the better tv than g1 and I would also get the bonus of having a much bigger TV.
It costs 4 times less probably for those (and other) reasons...
You can for sure go for it, just be warned about some aspects of your purchase.
Might just get it and compare, should be fun. If it isn't satisfactory i can always return it.
Think I agree with you on DV IQ, although hugely better after calibration on Cinema Home, that gamma even though it gives more detail, just strips away the pop that you'd get otherwise.....but somewhat good daytime setting at least, and I did DV Game whilst I was at it, and that is a great improvement too, plus I can adjust in game parameters with that at least.
I'm definitely thinking about the G3, I'll see what's what September/October time...... can't say I'm disappointed by the G1, but that's never stopped me before :00000
Now it's 100 in SDR only for Game Mode, which is dimmer.
100 in SDR Game preset = 70-75 in SDR ISF Dark (both with Peak Brightness: Off)
we are not allowed to talk about that game here.
But search for gamingtech his vid on it
Did you enable both VRR & AMD Freesync Premium or you just did the opposite: VRR only and AMD Freesync disabled?
Yeah, on Xbox you should never disable VRR on the console video settings for games (except for bugged games in VRR like Halo Infinite and few others).
On TV Game Optimizer menu you can then only keep AMD Freesync Premium enabled and VRR & G-Sync disabled when coupled with Xbox with VRR enabled and all should be good.
On PS5 or PC with NVIDIA cards: AMD Freesync Premium won't be native, so you can do the opposite on TV Game Optimizer: VRR & G-Sync On, AMD Freesync Premium Off.
If you have a receiver with multiple devices attached, you can keep both VRR & G-Sync + AMD Freesync Premium enabled.
It's the opposite: it's no more recommended for consoles.
It will just make texts a bit clearer but with too many disadvantages (raised gamma, locked out Clarity settings for movies, ALLM breaking and possible VRR flickering). Don't use it except for real PC usage (working in Word/Excel, browsing, reading, graphics applications etc)
oh because the the chart says freesync only for Xbox. Thought that applied to CX also
On Xbox...and PC with AMD video cards.
On CX if you enable AMD Freesync Premium on TV side it will "superseed" regular VRR, which should still always be enabled on Xbox video settings for games (like in the notes below the chart).
still weird then that freesync only enabled caused issues with Jedi. Because even with VRR on. Like you said Freesync superseed it.
AMD Freesync Premium is still a form of VRR and will do nothing when enabled on the TV if the VRR option is disabled on Xbox. That was the cause.