There is talk on a lot of other forums that this update doesn't actually make any difference to HDR game mode thougj?
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There is talk on a lot of other forums that this update doesn't actually make any difference to HDR game mode thougj?
People seem disappointed as they expected HDR Standard to be back as the default HDR Game mode, but should be glad this hasn't happened.
Matching HDR Technicolor and Active HDR for HDR games is a so much better improvement.
Great, can't wait to install it tomorrow.
Thanks for all your input and work on this topic, it's appreciated!!!
The previous update came out around a month ago and is yet to be offered automatically to my TV. Afraid the only option right now is to use USB especially if you want to play around with it during Christmas.
Also noticed the C8 got an update today with the same changelog. Is it possible they messed up when writing the changelog for the 7 series and it's just placebo? It might just apply to the 8 series.
https://www.lg.com/us/support-product/lg-OLED55C8PUA#manuals
https://www.lg.com/us/support-product/lg-OLED55C8PUA#manuals
I've seen no difference personally since updating hours ago and playing No Mans Sky, Assassins Creed, Battlefield V and Strange Brigade. I'd say placebo effect but hope I'm wrong. Technicolor HDR and Active HDR was never particularly bright anyway and between the two on mine Game HDR still looks a bit dimmer. Switch to Cinema Home HDR with Active HDR and its night and day difference - far brighter, especially whites and text. Easiest way to check was No Mans Sky which has some gorgeous scenes.
High
If you can't enable DC in HDR Game Mode, be sure to exit PC Input and go back to a standard HDMI input icon as "Game Console"
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Checked AVSforum...so far P40L0 is the only one who has posted that they tested it there as well haha
I guess it doesn't matter since its not available for Korea/US compatible firmware yet
I guess it doesn't matter since its not available for Korea/US compatible firmware yet
As Vincent Teho explained for the 2018 series update here:
the same kind of update/improvement is now released for UK/EU/AU 2017 models, while for US/Korea will be released soon with the same benefits, but with a slightly higher number (probably 5.80.15 or 5.80.20) so you have to just wait a little longer for it to appear on Korean or US LG Support site for manual install.
You don't have it yet!
Posts in the other thread from others who have installed including those using injection all saying the firmware makes no brightness change.
WebOS SDR settings watching SDR content via kodi/coreELEC picture is really dark, changing black level from low to high solves it but also makes the blacks dark grey.
How do I fix this? Should the LG be in PC mode for Kodi?
The settings say to use black level auto which is forced but mine only has high or low.
How do I fix this? Should the LG be in PC mode for Kodi?
The settings say to use black level auto which is forced but mine only has high or low.
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I would try the same settings of first post as a baseline, but without touching White Balance or Color Management System for webOS (as panels are different).
For HDR Game I would totally disable Dynamic Contrast, and enabling Dynamic Tonemapping only.
Starting from there, you can then adjust things if needed.
If you're able to choose, always pick Black Level: LOW on TV side, then find a way to correctly set the output device to Standard Color Space or RGB Limited, and never to Full.
If you still find it too dark, try switching back from BT.1886 Gamma to 2.2
Yes.
As it's not recommended to use PC Input anymore at this point, and considering latest X1X Dashboard fixed it, YCC4:2:2 is now providing native 12-bit output and better color accuracy for HDR and Dolby Vision without RGB conversion errors anymore (as long as you're also using 8-Bit Color Depth + Standard Color Space).
SDR will still output to 4:2:0 @ 8-bit
If you have an European or Australian C7, grab it from here (under the Firmware section)
If you have an US or Korean TV, it's not available yet, but it will be soon on relative page of US and Korea LG Support website.
Wow very weird, my tv also says 5.80.10 and I havnt updated since you posted the PC mode changes... how is this possible?
If you have US/Korean model, they probably pushed a small auto-update during the night, but as Vincent Teho noted this latest patch version will be different between region.
In the end should be 5.80.10 for Europe/Australia, and 5.80.15 or 5.80.20 for US/Korea, and the latter is not released yet.
Yeah 2.2 gamma definitely helps bring back the detail that was lost in the darkness but you lose the inky blacks unfortunately.
I discovered they removed the ability to choose wide or limited from the Kodi (coreELEC) setting for Amlogic boxes as apparently it never worked properly. Coming from an Intel NUC I always had that option, but the Amlogic box is supposed to do autocolour space switching for SDR/HDR content anyway.
So the old ISF dark settings are useless now? I should restore everything to default and use these updated settings? Whats the difference between PC ISF Expert SDR settings and the new Game settings SDR, shouldn't they be the same since its supposedly calibrated.
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I'm in Europe and got the .10 update last Monday. So I guess that's it then. My game mode is just as dim as always.
The latest update came out this Wednesday according to their website, so it's weird if you have the latest if you haven't updated it after that.
https://www.lg.com/uk/support/support-product/lg-OLED55C7V
Over the air can sometimes come out earlier. Rare but it happens.
It's not supposed to be. As long as HDR Game can match Technicolor then it's ''fixed''. HDR Standard is so bright that you lose detail in bright areas like the sky etc. Haven't got the update yet myself, but Game HDR used to be dimmer than Technicolor which was the problem.
Got the update. I can confirm that HDR Game Mode on console with Dynamic Contrast set to Medium is indeed about the same as HDR Technicolor with Active HDR. But P40 seems to be under the impression that HDR Technicolor with Active HDR on while being fed a console signal is an accurate picture, but it's not. The issue with console HDR being dim has nothing to do with Game Mode itself, the issue is with games on consoles in HDR not outputting metadata. LG aggressively maps down HDR signals without metadata. So yes, HDR Game Mode is still dim, as is Technicolor. Nothing has changed, unfortunately. You still need something like an HD Fury Linker to inject metadata to an HDR console signal to restore brightness.
I assume you mean that at the input select screen, you're setting your console input up as PC? Does that in anyway affect/deteriorate the 21ms input lag we're supposed to get in 'Game' mode?
I'm glad you also confirmed it.
Anyway, I was referring to HDR Technicolor with Active HDR as the reference for the best "accuracy/luminance" balance to match, especially with higher nits games (as the profile is still the best HDR one to use on LG OLEDs with regular HDR movies, both webOS/Streaming or 4K/HDR BluRays).
Active HDR is still not recommended for games as it produces visible luminance shifts during gaming, but the fact that HDR Game with DC set to Medium can now achieve the same HDR Technicolor balance with the same contents (even 4K/HDR BluRays) for the first time is a major improvement, and what people should want. Yesterday I re-watched 4K/HDR Infinity War using both profiles, and in many occasion HDR Game with DC to Medium was even brighter than Technicolor, and even more pleasant to watch. That was never the case before.
For HDR games, as soon as you set in-game HDR Luminance sliders around 4.000 nits, you will also experience a much improved experience with the new HDR Game mode, and a much better overall PQ compared to PC HDR Standard now.
To me, buying an HD Fury Linker should not be needed anymore, but obviously anyone can try and stick with whichever setup they prefer.
This
Not for SDR, but with any PC HDR profile you will have increased input lag.
Just curious: how does this compare to the Game Mode on 2018 TV's now? Is it the same?
I know RDR2 uses fake HDR, but the game shines much more on PC input. The sun is way more brighter and everything looks more vibrant overall.
I don't have a 2018 model to directly compare side by side, but as far as I know HDR Game with DC to Medium on 7 Series and HDR Game with Dynamic Tonemapping enabled on 8 Series should be very comparable now.
RDR2 still uses fake HDR, but I read many reports saying it still look better with it on LG OLEDs.
I still don't have the game (as I'm still digesting an huge backlog, and wouldn't have the right time to dedicate for it), but I would recommend regular HDR Game with OP settings + RDR2 in-game HDR luminance to 350 or 400.
I also read report of image retention and even burn-in with RDR2 when using PC HDR Standard after very long sessions (due to its static and solid colors' HUD, that will become glowing/neon-like when using PC HDR Standard).
Alright so this is good news. I also think Spider- Man looks pretty dim due to the lack of a proper in-game HDR slider, so I will try this out tonight.
P40L0 Which is also confusing, given the post of Kyle Cross, as he states the following:
So something has indeed changed, but game mode is still "broken" or just as meant to be?
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Firstly, a big thank you to P40L0 and his continued review and suggestions for settings.
I concur that this latest update for me at least, makes Game HDR on my 65C7 not only the best HDR mode, but now for me, great.
Unfortunately PC HDR Standard was never a good solution due to the extreme white clipping. Far Cry 5 was a perfect example for showing the white detail lost. Some other games were not so bad that had dual sliders and more adjustment. But it was never right.
This new update brings the best of both worlds with 4000nit mapping and a decent brightness/luminance balance. I'm really happy with it.
For RDR2, I found in game setting of 300 best as anything higher raises the brightness/gamma in darker scenes too much. A good place to test this for me, was in the bar in Saint Denis. In the evening, anything brighter than 300, made the gamma too much and the bar look washed out and less natural.
I concur that this latest update for me at least, makes Game HDR on my 65C7 not only the best HDR mode, but now for me, great.
Unfortunately PC HDR Standard was never a good solution due to the extreme white clipping. Far Cry 5 was a perfect example for showing the white detail lost. Some other games were not so bad that had dual sliders and more adjustment. But it was never right.
This new update brings the best of both worlds with 4000nit mapping and a decent brightness/luminance balance. I'm really happy with it.
For RDR2, I found in game setting of 300 best as anything higher raises the brightness/gamma in darker scenes too much. A good place to test this for me, was in the bar in Saint Denis. In the evening, anything brighter than 300, made the gamma too much and the bar look washed out and less natural.
I have the B8 set. Like P40L0 said, use OP settings with DC off and Dynamic Tonemapping On.
On RDR2 use 300 as HDR setting. Dynamic Tonemapping brightens the image. It looks phenomenal.
King Dazzar Do you use the OP settings for HDR gaming?
Ponchito Dynamic Tonemapping? If I understand correctly you turn this on by setting Dynamic Contrast to Low, correct? Except P40L0 states DC should be set to medium?
Ponchito Dynamic Tonemapping? If I understand correctly you turn this on by setting Dynamic Contrast to Low, correct? Except P40L0 states DC should be set to medium?
The second one you said.
HDR Game Mode is now working as intended and at best (once setup) also on 7 Series.
Dynamic Tonemapping is only available on the 8 models. In that case you should use Dynamic Tonemapping On instead of Dynamic Contrast (should be off).
He is talking about 2018 series' Dynamic Tonemapping for HDR Game Mode. No need for Dynamic Contrast there.
DC to Medium is for 2017 series' HDR Game.
Which is the setting in the OP, right? Because that says DC medium, while Ponchito here below says you should turn it off.
Yes since the OP is about the 2017 models, DC should be on for those, but for the 2018 (B8, C8 etc) models you should use Dynamic Tonemapping instead of Dynamic Contrast. This is the only difference.