Burning questions about acne? Oily skin? Dry skin? Wrinkles?
You've come to the right place.
I've answered hundreds of questions in threads and in PMs over the years, and now, in this new place we now call home, I'll answer hundreds (?) more. But first, some (very brief) background:
Skin is complex. Complex as fuck. But there are a few ground rules that everyone should abide by to treat it right. As a note, I'm not in any way affiliated with any of the companies whose products I may happen to recommend in this thread now or later. I will also not post any URLs to any products because I'm not seeking any referral link-generated profit. I just want to help!
So with that, here we go:
Cleansing is the first step to clearing dirt and oil from your face. This is important because the build-up of sebum (our body's naturally-produced oil), along with sweat and the general debris of the day, clog pores and provide the food source for the bacteria that cause acne and other facial blemishes. It's also important as a prep for the subsequent steps because it allows the active agents and other important ingredients to better penetrate the skin and do their job.
What To Look Out For: The best cleansers are free of fragrance, dyes, or any additive "tingling" ingredients like menthol or eucalyptus, which unfortunately pervade "men's" branded skin products. Since a cleanser is not meant to provide any skin care benefit beyond removing surface dirt and grime, it's also a waste of money to buy one that contains active ingredients like benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid. The twenty seconds or so that you rub it on before rinsing aren't enough time for them to penetrate into the skin.
Recommendations: CeraVe Foaming Facial Cleanser, Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser
Exfoliating is the secret MVP of skin care. When we're younger, our skin naturally undergoes an accelerated cell turnover cycle that keeps it smooth, taut, and blemish-free. As we age, though, the combination of sun damage (we'll get back to this one), hormonal carnage, and poor lifestyle choices can leave skin sallow and unhealthy. Exfoliation through the use of products that contain beta-hydroxy and alpha-hydroxy acid help prevent and/or reverse skin damage by forcing the same accelerated cell turnover cycle that younger, healthier skin experiences. Its benefits are manifold: not only do you help reverse years of skin damage, but you also help ensure that future cellular turnover proceeds more smoothly and reveal younger-looking, healthier skin free of blackheads or whiteheads. As a note, BHA is best applied daily, whereas AHA is something that (due to its higher concentration) is better used weekly as an overnight treatment.
What To Look Out For: The best exfoliants are free of alcohols, essential fruit oils, or any other drying and/or irritating ingredients, and should be packaged in opaque containers that keep out sunlight, not jars that let in oxygen and dirty hands. They need not contain extra cell-communicating ingredients like niacinamide or Vitamin C, but it only helps.
Recommendations: BHA = Paula's Choice 2% BHA Liquid; AHA = Alpha Hydrox AHA 10% Glycolic Acid Enhanced Lotion, Paula's Choice RESIST Skin Revealing Body Lotion with 10% AHA
Step Three: Moisturizer/Sun Protection
Exfoliation is a supremely effective antidote to skin aging and blemishes, but proper use of moisturizer and sun protectant are the preventative measures that render those problems moot to begin with. Moisturizing your skin is important, even for those who naturally produce excess sebum, because it keeps wrinkles at bay and provides a range of cell-communicating ingredients that supplement the rapid cellular turnover promoted by exfoliation. More importantly, though, it also provides sun protection in the form of SPF (sun protection factor) that minimize the negative effects of UVA and UVB radiation on the skin. UVA radiation is the type of deeply penetrating radiation that causes wrinkles over time, and can even develop into melanoma (skin cancer), while UVB radiation is the type that, while not penetrating deeply into the dermal layers, does cause uncomfortable sunburns and can create hyperpigmentation (darkened skin discolorations). Your morning moisturizer should contain an SPF of at least 30, but you have no need to use SPF at night. UVA/UVB rays penetrate clouds, glass, and clothing (so sunscreen is a year-round must!), but for obvious reasons, are not present at night. As a note, since exfoliation can make the skin more photosensitive (vulnerable to sunlight), it's imperative to follow any day exfoliation with at least SPF 30.
What To Look Out For: In the morning, your moisturizer should be your sunscreen. Formulations nowadays (even mineral sunscreens containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide) don't leave the ghostly white-ish cast that you might remember from childhood excursions at the beach.
Recommendations: Facial sunscreen = Kiss My Face, Face Factor SPF 30; Body sunscreen = NO-AD SPF 45; Night facial moisturizer = Dr. Carver's Miracle Repair Serum; Night facial moisturizer = Olay Quench Body Lotion Ultra Moisture
OK, that hopefully wasn't too much.
But it's only the tip of the iceberg. This is a very broad overview of what your ideal skin care routine might look like. However, because skin is complex (as fuck), there's a whole host of other more specific concerns that people might face. So if you have any questions about the following:
- Mild-to-severe OTC or prescription acne treatment
- Enlarged pores
- Dry/oily/combination skin
- Shaving/grooming/ingrown hairs
- Toners/serums/lotions/masks/essential oils
- Laser treatments
- Skin lightening/brightening
- Diet/exercise/genetics
- Smoking/drinking/masturbation
...or anything else, then ask away! This is your space to learn everything and anything you ever wondered about your body's largest (and sexiest!) organ.
