I'm with you OP and I have played it... a lot.
Open world games are my main interest, and amount to at least 80% of the games I play, but ER's world does nothing for me. Sure, it has some beauty to it, but for the most part the world feels dead and somehow old, antiquated (technically) very gamey and certainly in no way real. It's a shame, but, after 35+ hours and killing many bosses, the open world is just something to charge through to get to the next one, and not something to revel in and soak up. For the first time I find myself using fast travel (something I never do) as I'm bored of the world reset after every death and seeing the same basic AI patterns, in a mostly drab setting. Basically it's another just Souls game in murky, tech challenged open world areas.
It was money well spent though as both my kids love it. In fact it's the first time my youngest son has ever got into a SP game, so it's doing something right, but he doesn't care about the world, just the fight, and that's just fine.