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I second this. Didn't take no time to update. I only dabbled with regular SDR on my PC which looked good using the console settings. Played some Outer Worlds and it looked great. Almost forgot that game wasn't in HDR from how good it looked.
Going to play a bit of PS4 and Xbox tonight with the new settings.
Applied all of your suggested settings last night and think it's a marked improvement so thanks again. After updating death stranding Def looks better. Stoked.
DV Game is now used as a better alternative to both DV Cinema (accurate but too dim without USB patches) and DV Home Cinema (brighter, but less accurate and with also some weird bugs during black transitions, e.g. "white box flashes" instead of fade to Black).
Once setup with the same values as DV Cinema, DV Game can be as accurate as DV Cinema, as bright as DV Home Cinema and with no bugs.
Motion will also be as good thanks to game modes' special processing.
The 21ms low input lag is just a bonus feature on top of the above, so you will also be ready if and when future Dolby Vision games arrive. ;)
I still prefer how DV Home Cinema looks compared to Game. I realize the sheer brightness of Home isn't the most accurate, but Game seems not just dimmer, but more washed out?
It's not DV Game to be washed out, but DV Home Cinema to be a bit overly saturated and overly bright with same settings (plus remember the "white box" bug).
DV Game is closer to regular DV Cinema accuracy wise, therefore it's good.
There are no Dolby Vision games on X1X at the moment.
DV Game profile is only used for movies and TV shows (e.g. through Netflix app).
If on next Xbox (Scarlett) they will introduce also Dolby Vision games, you will automatically use DV Game preset also for those.
Currently, for gaming, SDR Game and HDR Game profiles will switch automatically and will look as good as ISF/Technicolor.
P40L0-
First off, thanks for all the great info and calibration advice you have posted in this thread. I have an LG B7 and have stopped here many times for guidance. It has been a huge help, so thanks much man!!
I have a question for you about HDR gaming, if you don't mind. I just got Assassin's Creed Odyssey for my PS4 Pro and was a little confused at what I should set the in game sliders to. I ended up settling on 1000 nits luminance and 120 paper white brightness. I noticed though that you recommend 4000 nits! Isn't that overkill for this TV? What is the reasoning behind this? Thanks again!
First off, thanks for all the great info and calibration advice you have posted in this thread. I have an LG B7 and have stopped here many times for guidance. It has been a huge help, so thanks much man!!
I have a question for you about HDR gaming, if you don't mind. I just got Assassin's Creed Odyssey for my PS4 Pro and was a little confused at what I should set the in game sliders to. I ended up settling on 1000 nits luminance and 120 paper white brightness. I noticed though that you recommend 4000 nits! Isn't that overkill for this TV? What is the reasoning behind this? Thanks again!
The correct max HDR luminance is indeed 4.000nits as HDR Game preset (and also HDR Technicolor and HDR Cinema) "takes for granted" that the default incoming HDR signal is mastered at 4.000 nits.
This because most movies and TV shows are mastered at higher nits (4.000 nits or even 10.000 nits) and those profiles will try to preserve this dynamic range as much as possible in order to be as accurate as possibile, and without losing any detail.
When doing so, by default this could result in a "dim" image as the TV will try to preserve a 4.000 nits or 10.000 nits highlight, so it must dim all the rest, and especially in the cases where the 4.000/10.000 nits highlight happens for 5 minutes in the entire movie/game, this could mean having a dim image 99% of time, with the TV getting "ready" for those 5 minutes only.
With features as Active HDR/Dynamic Tone Mapping or Dynamic Contrast though, this is mostly fixed as luminance will be adjusted frame by frame with the first technique, while gamma will be adjusted with the second, both resulting in a correctly bright image all the time AND preserving those great highlights when needed. ;)
Great, now I want to upgrade my TV for those features! lol. Thanks for the info man. Much appreciated. I will have to test this out later when I'm home.
LG 2017 OLED's have already Active HDR (aka: Dynamic Tone Mapping) for HDR Technicolor Expert preset: you just need to enable Dynamic Contrast to Low, as suggested.
This unfortunately does not work for HDR Game mode, where Dynamic Contrast will just raise up the general gamma to a certain point, therefore it's suggested DC: Medium there, but it will still look very similar to what HDR Tecnicolor + Active HDR achieves.
2018 and 2019 models have real Dynamic Tonemapping also for HDR Game (with a separate, dedicated, setting), but even there the calibrated 2017 HDR Game mode looks very similar to those.
Ah okay. I don't feel so bad now. Medium is what I have set now for the dynamic contrast. Doesn't sound like I'm missing out on much with the dynamic tonemapping. So thats good. Right now though I have my HDR mode set to user custom as game mode felt a bit dim in comparison and I don't really perceive a difference as far as latency is concerned. I'll give game mode a try tonight. Curious what the result will be after adjusting the luminance in AC:O. For SDR gaming like my switch, game mode seems to look fine so I left it.
Let me ask you this though. If latency is not a concern, would you recommend a different picture mode for gaming outside game mode for both standard and HDR?
If latency is not a top issue of yours and you prioritize brightness, yes, try Option 2 in the first both (therefore using PC Input), both for SDR and HDR.
It's there for this exact reason, even if I still recommend Option 1b ;)
New issue has presented itself on my C7... (The red is just a test screen FYI)
This weird central 'window' where everything inside is slightly brighter. Mostly visible on the left side, it is especially bad on content that's heavy on the red end of the spectrum. I've no idea what's caused it, it's not burn-in... There's definitely other spots that've burnt in over time, but this has appeared very suddenly and there's nothing I can think of that would've caused it.
This panel is less than a year old, after being replaced back in January for a stuck pixel.
Fuck OLEDs is all I can say
This weird central 'window' where everything inside is slightly brighter. Mostly visible on the left side, it is especially bad on content that's heavy on the red end of the spectrum. I've no idea what's caused it, it's not burn-in... There's definitely other spots that've burnt in over time, but this has appeared very suddenly and there's nothing I can think of that would've caused it.
This panel is less than a year old, after being replaced back in January for a stuck pixel.
Fuck OLEDs is all I can say
New issue has presented itself on my C7... (The red is just a test screen FYI)
This weird central 'window' where everything inside is slightly brighter. Mostly visible on the left side, it is especially bad on content that's heavy on the red end of the spectrum. I've no idea what's caused it, it's not burn-in... There's definitely other spots that've burnt in over time, but this has appeared very suddenly and there's nothing I can think of that would've caused it.
This panel is less than a year old, after being replaced back in January for a stuck pixel.
Fuck OLEDs is all I can say
You're welcome.
Quality wise, tho, the best SDR preset remain calibrated ISF Expert (Dark Room) while the best HDR one is calibrated HDR Technicolor Expert (with Active HDR).
The problem in directly using those for gaming is that both those will make skyrocket input lag from steady 21ms to something between 60-90ms, and it will become VERY noticeable and annoying coming from the super smooth and instant game modes.
Using PC Input and Option 2 should provide an input lag around 35-45ms (at least using HDR Standard there), so a bit better, but still more delayed compared to HDR Game mode.
HDR Standard will also still be less accurate compared both to HDR Technicolor with Active HDR and HDR Game with Dynamic Contrast: Medium.
, even if the brightest HDR preset of all.
I'm sure the calibrator side of you will be relieved to know, that after fiddling with your recommended settings tonight, I ended up sticking with option 1a in game mode. The only change I made was setting the color gamut to extended instead of auto for a slight bit more pop. I did go back and forth a bit before finally deciding which I preferred. I think this will be the option I flip back and forth on depending on the game. Overall it looks fantastic so I think this is the one I will stick with!
Okay, so one more question regarding the overall picture quality and a cub scout swear I will leave you alone. :P
There are two other factors that play into the picture quality that I'm not sure how to deal with. One is the in game brightness setting (not HDR tuning), Assassin's Creed: Odyssey has this setting. It instructs to move the slider until the image is *almost invisible. The only thing is if I actually do that my game then looks waaay too dark! I'm guessing I should leave this setting alone (default)? Or is that something I tune before flipping over to HDR mode? Lastly, The PS4 has an HDR calibration tuner built into the OS settings. Same deal, move a slider until the image is *almost invisible x 3 (but again, when I adjust until it is barely visible to my eye, the result is a way too dark image). Why must these settings be such a pain?! lol
Yeah, for a newcomer all these settings could quickly become a nightmare. That's the main reason why I decided to create and curate this topic ;)
For regular in-game Brightness setting of AC: Origins / AC: Odyssey, yeah, this is meant to be set in SDR, so I suggest you to reset it at its default, then short the bar "1 tick left" and you should be good to go. This is also reported at the bottom of the first post with all HDR games' (I personally tested) suggested in-game settings both for Option 1a/1b and Option 2.
Regarding the system wide PS4 Pro HDR calibration, not all games will apply that and most will still "ignore" it completely.
For those who apply it, just regulate it to a point where things look good also there.
Have fun
8-bit Color Depth + Standard Color Space + Allow 4:2:2 is still the best combo on X1X.
See here an in-depth output signal analysis using an HDFury Vertex and other external equipments (updated on August 2019, on AVSForums).
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I tried the new settings, but the contrast at 98 is waaay to bright imo. Watched some football games yesterday and the white lines and kits are too bright for my eyes, makes it less comfortable for viewing. I toned it down to 90 and changed the gamma to 2.4, and its much better now. I like a general darker picture so this might just be me, I turned down OLED light at first but that doesn't change the whites much so adjusted contrast downwards. Gamma 2.2 is a little to 'dim' for me as well, makes the blacks look grey-ish at times, I prefer a bit darker tone.
Colours are noticably better though with these default values, so big improvement there. HDR Game with High DC remains my preffered choice for HDR, Division 2 looks bonkers and FIFA20 menu's aren't too bright or noticably 'off' colours (which I usually use for benchmarks) so I think I found a good middle ground so to say. Thanks for the new settings!
Colours are noticably better though with these default values, so big improvement there. HDR Game with High DC remains my preffered choice for HDR, Division 2 looks bonkers and FIFA20 menu's aren't too bright or noticably 'off' colours (which I usually use for benchmarks) so I think I found a good middle ground so to say. Thanks for the new settings!
Yeah sure, feel free to adjust if and where you prefer.
Just some thoughts: for eye please, a lesser OLED Light value for SDR is usually recommended, especially in totally dark room viewing. Same thing for Gamma BT.1886 (which is theoretically more accurate than Gamma 2.2, but actually only in pitch black rooms otherwise it could wrongly seem as it's crushing blacks even if it doesn't).
Option 1a based on High DC could often look stellar, but as often it could really clip whites and a lot of detail, and could even be far too bright in dark rooms. With latest settings, Colors look alright also with it, but it will never be as accurate as with DC: Medium or as HDR Technicolor with Active HDR.
In the end it's only about finding the "best compromise" vs personal preferences, so I'm happy to have provided valid solutions for most cases.
Thanks to you ;)
Dolby Vision Game with the latest update is WAY dimmer and darker than the old DV Cinema (USB patched) and DV Home Cinema. Am I doing anything wrong?
Yeah, there's something wrong for sure as DV Game is for sure brighter than DV Cinema, and on par with DV Home Cinema luminance-wise.
Make sure you disabled all energy saving and "eye care" options for it, or try to reset and re-configure it.
Try also an hard reboot of the TV once applied all the recommended settings (unplug it from power outlet, push the power button for 30 sec, re-plug the TV and turn it on again).
Still not convinced. 4K Blu ray movies and HDR games are 10bit 420 anyway aren't they? So why would you want to force 12bit and or 422? Surely this is processing that it not needed. It also states in the settings Use if you have problems displaying 4K image on your tv?
It's weird because it works well with the same settings on the Xbox One X but not on webOS and the Apple TV 4K. Will reset the TV.
Only the video "signal" is passed uncompressed at 4K@60hz, 4:2:2 Chroma with 12-bit Color Depth (the maximum that the HDMI 2.0 can handle), therefore ANY type of content will be accurately "contained" in it, or upscaled without any middle re-conversions.
It has been proved with professional equipment, so I think this is no more up to debate at least until Scarlett will arrive next year at this point.
Try reset the single profile only first, not the entire TV... ^^'
Didn't work at first, so I have to try with the whole TV now :-(
Or just stick with DV Cinema if you prefer, maybe it's not worth all the hassle and/or you could end up with same results?
Don't use Full RGB and High Black Level with these TVs or you could have signal mismatches and bad quality HDR.
As suggested for PS4 Pro: stick to "RGB: Limited" and all other video options to "Auto".
On the TV, always use "Black Level: Low"
If you use a separate HDMI input for the Switch, no, you can use "PC Mode" (changing the input icon to PC) and apply the SDR "Option 2" settings in the first post, then using Full RGB and Black Level: High (as Switch is SDR only, and you could leverage calibrated ISF Expert, 4:4:4 Chroma, Full RGB and low input lag at the same time with no need to worry about HDR)
I beg to differ with this I have the c9 and c7 and I can confirm that the c9 is a whole lot brighter even the hdr seems to have more depth to the image on the c9
I'd go with it off mate I've just bought the c9 and I had 422 ticked as a legacy setting and it blows the brightness and colours out of whack so that's me setting it off as the brighter c9 confirms it looks wrong
Conflicting reports are mostly caused by PC Input mode, where 422 should be disabled or it will cause severe color banding.
Also note that just enabling/disabling won't work for A/B testing as for the change to be applied Xbox must be rebooted...
Yeah I rebooted each time and I get the results posted. AVR won't report the bit depth with it on but does report 10bit with it off. The guy I was chatting to on AVF also had his report 8bit 422 with it on but 10bit 420 with it off. If you run your Xbox through an AVR might be worth checking what it says on yours?
422 @ 8-bit is quite uncommon, therefore most probably was 422 @ 12-bit on HDR or Dolby Vision.
I also think that an HDFury Vertex should be much more reliable in signal measuring and analysis.
The Xbox always outputs RGB in SDR, no matter what is ticked, but its HDR where the issues lie.
If you have 8bit and 4:2:2 ticked, it'll auto-switch to 12bit 4:2:2 when HDR is detected, but if you do not tick 4:2:2 HDR games will be 10bit 4:2:0, and I can tell you that the 7 and 8 series LG OLED's, suffer from increased input latency when 4:2:0 sub sampling is detected.