Don't understand why my mobo (Tomahawk B650 I think MSI) can't see all my fans? mobo (and fancontrol) only see CPU and GPU.
The PC Builders Thread ("I Need a New PC") v3
- Thread starter Crazymoogle
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You'll need to tell us which fans you have and how they're connected to the motherboard
Are you sing a fan hub that came with your case? Unless it is something more fancy than usual with a USB connection then your computer will see everything connected to that hub as a single thing.
Same applies if you have your fans daisy chained. Various fans connected back to a to a single 4 pin header the motherboard will see as one.
Edit: some fan hubs might also be connected directly to the PSU and in that case your mobo is entirely unaware.
mostly applications, virtualization, docker, software development, and some gaming
i hadn't upgraded, because of how poor these intel chips are now compared to amd
this may be the first time i have an amd processor, since the early 2000s š¹
With a 5600X3D, you are already close to a ryzen 7600, in gaming performance. You should wait for Zen5.
Some boards boot faster than others. Even within the same brand. But, boot times overall, will likely never be as fast as they used to be.
I kinda miss those days of sticking a brand new SSD into a Sandy Bridge build and see it cold boot to desktop in literally 3 seconds
Hello everyone, I've had a bad mishap with my 5800x3D while removing the CPU cooler (a Phantom Spirit), so as to move house : I tore off the CPU, despite having it run Cinebench for a few minutes just before.
A few pins were bent but I think I managed to put them back in their right place using tweezers. The CPU fits snugly in the socket again. Is that a good sign ?
With the move, I won't be able to check for a few days but I'd love a bit of reassurance in the meantime, if the situation warrants.
Now is not the time to replace a five months old CPU !
A few pins were bent but I think I managed to put them back in their right place using tweezers. The CPU fits snugly in the socket again. Is that a good sign ?
With the move, I won't be able to check for a few days but I'd love a bit of reassurance in the meantime, if the situation warrants.
Now is not the time to replace a five months old CPU !
Often in a situation like this, you will be fine.
However, you may not be. I've seen it end badly. But, less often.
I'm not feeling very reassured !
Thanks, though. We shall see.
Now $330
P.S. Ant does not do free returns. So, think before you leap.
Getting the 7800X3D bundle from Microcenter that now they are allowing you to change the motherboard and maintain the discount on the CPU/Ram.
As for now the two MB and looking at are the Asus B650E-F Rog Strix and the MSI X670E Tomahawk. Both are the same price. Asus has a better onboard Audio and MSI board has better connectivity due to been a X670E board.
The other options are the Gigabyte X670E Aorus Pro X and AsRock X670E Steel Legend, but both of them are $50 more, so I probably will do the Asus or MSI.
Anyone here with experience on this 2 boards?
As for now the two MB and looking at are the Asus B650E-F Rog Strix and the MSI X670E Tomahawk. Both are the same price. Asus has a better onboard Audio and MSI board has better connectivity due to been a X670E board.
The other options are the Gigabyte X670E Aorus Pro X and AsRock X670E Steel Legend, but both of them are $50 more, so I probably will do the Asus or MSI.
Anyone here with experience on this 2 boards?
Asus' audio is maybe marginally better----and that's only if you have a front panel audio jack and use it. As that is where the pre-amp is used.
Otherwise, the hardware differences between the 4080 and 1200 sound chips, are minimal. The main difference, is that the 4080 is technically a USB sound device.
However, an advantage for the MSI, is it has an Optical output. Which is a great feature for connecting to high quality DACs, sound bars, Home Theater receivers, etc.
The MSI board is better in basically every way. At the same price, its an easy choice, IMO.
However, do check user reviews on Newegg, to see if there are otherwise any consistent reports of issues.
I think it's just about time for me to replace my 1080ti, I've had be a bit conservative with more recent games or been unable to play certain titles at all. With Homeworld 3 approaching and if the reviews are good enough I'm looking to start a rebuild of my system starting with the GPU and mostly likely the PSU. It's far from my first rodeo but I'm keen for Era's opinion.
Current build:
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5600X
GPU: Nvidia GeForce 1080ti
Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix X570-F Gaming (AMD AM4) DDR4 X570
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX Black 32GB (2x16GB) 3600 MHz AMD Ryzen Tuned DDR4 Memory Dual Kit
Power supply:Corsair RMx Series RM750x 80 PLUS Gold Fully Modular ATX Power Supply
I've been thinking about getting 4080super with a new PSU, maybe 850w if necessary and later on upgrading my CPU to a 7800x3d later in the year, or I was wondering if it was worth getting a 5800x3d as an interim measure and holding for a later gen CPU.
Current build:
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5600X
GPU: Nvidia GeForce 1080ti
Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix X570-F Gaming (AMD AM4) DDR4 X570
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX Black 32GB (2x16GB) 3600 MHz AMD Ryzen Tuned DDR4 Memory Dual Kit
Power supply:Corsair RMx Series RM750x 80 PLUS Gold Fully Modular ATX Power Supply
I've been thinking about getting 4080super with a new PSU, maybe 850w if necessary and later on upgrading my CPU to a 7800x3d later in the year, or I was wondering if it was worth getting a 5800x3d as an interim measure and holding for a later gen CPU.
You don't even need a new PSU, a RM750X is good enough for a 4080S.
For the CPU: you still have a decent platform with that X570 board and 32GB 3600 ram... a 5700X3D or a 5800X3D on sale might be a good option for you..
For a 5600X you will be CPU bottlenecked at a 4080 Super. Hardware Unboxed found, for example, a 4080 + 5600 was the same speed as a 4070 + 7800X3D at 1440p. In general I would not recommend faster than a 4070 Super with a 5600X, although if you are at 4K you can kinda get away with it to an extent.
So on the topic of a faster CPU, I'd get a 5700X3D as the interim measure. The 5800X3D is barely faster but noticeably more expensive so it's not recommended especially as a placeholder.
If you can get 5700X3D + 4080 Super now, that's your best option. Then forget about the 7800X3D, and your next upgrade will be new mobo + RAM + the 9800X3D which likely should launch sometime in 2025.
Your PSU is fine.
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Yeah I was surprised when I checked my psu this afternoon, must've gone way overboard for my 1080ti.
I don't usually play anything too cpu intensive and its purely a gaming pc so I guess I can hold out on the cpu. If I upgrade the cpu for a 5800X3D I'm not sure if I need to change any bios settings but I'll get to that later on.
That's a great shout on the 5700X3D, don't mind a slight bottleneck in the meantime.
GPU finally arrived today. Well, got all my parts now! Sadly due to busy schedule I can't build until Thursday. But it's gonna be a weekend full of fabulous gaming.
There is still the matter of my oled gaming monitor which is still on backorder, but I got my secondary monitor to use in the meantime.
There is still the matter of my oled gaming monitor which is still on backorder, but I got my secondary monitor to use in the meantime.
1. Use your cellphone to take pics of your fan curves and any other bios settings which you want to recreate, which are not CPU related.
2. Update your bios to the latest version, before you remove the 5600x.
3. After you disassemble, take the CMOS battery out, for 20 seconds. (Or use the clear cmos jumper for 20 seconds) This will clear all settings and ensure the new bios will post with the new CPU, as if the mobo had never been used before.
What are people's opinions on a pre-emptive upgrade to AM5, before the 9000 series launches?
Like, getting a decent AM5 board, new RAM and all that, along with the cheapest AM5 processor i can find, just to get it up and running. It might still be an upgrade on my old 9700K. And then a year from now, I could buy a 9800x3d or whatever and just drop it in.
Thoughts?
Like, getting a decent AM5 board, new RAM and all that, along with the cheapest AM5 processor i can find, just to get it up and running. It might still be an upgrade on my old 9700K. And then a year from now, I could buy a 9800x3d or whatever and just drop it in.
Thoughts?
Yes, that's a big draw to the AM5 platform and why the 7500F or 7600 or 7600X (cheapest options, but 7500F isn't in most stores) are recommended for more budget oriented gaming builds right now - gets you an inexpensive foot in the door and saves your bigger bucks for the 9800X3D which should launch next year and prolly have good discounts in 2026. If you want more performance than your old platform now and are okay with upgrading your CPU again in 1-2 years it's actually a great idea imo.
Edit: Yes that's a good upgrade from a 9700k already and whenever you upgrade again to a 9800X3D you'll get another great upgrade.
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A ryzen 7600 games like a 12900k in many games, would obliterate your 9700k in gaming. They are $190 right now.
That said, AMD's Zen 5 replacement for the 7600/X probably will not be more than $100 more. But, should be quite a bit more potent.
It all depends on what kind of performance you need.
However, if you see a good deal on a board or RAM you like, get it now. Deals often dry up at a new launch.
If you don't like many of the boards, there should be a few refreshed boards released soon.
This is essentially what I did with the 5000 series. I picked up a B550 board at lunch and popped a 3600 in there with the intention of upgrading to a 5800 or 5900x when they released. This was early on in the pandemic though and availability of parts was a lot less certain than it is now. I was pretty desperate to get off my ancient i5 2500k too.
Been wanting to upgrade my low-end 34" ultrawide (3440x1440, 100 Hz, TN panel, VRR). Pulled the trigger today on the 39" LG 39GS95QE-B (3440x1440, 240 Hz, OLED, AMD FreeSync Premium Pro). The only aspect that is a downgrade concerning to me from my current monitor is the PPI drops from 110 to 96, which is significant, but I think I'll be fine with it. I saw issues reported with text driving which seems inherent with WOLED monitors, but it isn't a problem for me as this is going to be 95% gaming use at this point.
It was $1,500 new a week ago and dropped to $1,200 recently. I bought it from LG with a 15% off coupon; it ended up being $1,084 after taxes. I used a 13% cashback from Rakuten, too, so I should get another ~$156 back, for a final cost of about $928.
Pretty happy with that price. Should last me for a few years bare minimum, and once I build a new PC/upgrade from my 6800 XT, I'll see if a higher res equivalent is available at that time. I'll post some impressions once it arrives early next week.
It was $1,500 new a week ago and dropped to $1,200 recently. I bought it from LG with a 15% off coupon; it ended up being $1,084 after taxes. I used a 13% cashback from Rakuten, too, so I should get another ~$156 back, for a final cost of about $928.
Pretty happy with that price. Should last me for a few years bare minimum, and once I build a new PC/upgrade from my 6800 XT, I'll see if a higher res equivalent is available at that time. I'll post some impressions once it arrives early next week.
I also wish there were more 32-34" 1440p monitors for the ppi but the quality ones seem to stay at 27".
And yes there is text clarity issues because of the weird subpixel layout. You can mess around with cleartype to help with it even if it's not something that concerns you all that much.
Probably a silly question to ask, since clearly no one knows the future, but how long do you think a prebuilt PC like this (4060Ti / Ryzen 7 7700) would be able to keep up at 60 FPS / Medium settings for "most" games?
Would I get 5 years out of this maybe?
Would I get 5 years out of this maybe?
I'll mess with the Cleartype settings, thanks for the tip! And yeah I wanted something a little larger but there's no ultrawide OLED 38-39" 4k (or >3440x1440 at all) right now, and anything larger than around 40" wouldn't fit with my desk setup (and I like what I have so didn't wanna rearrange). So, when 45" panels drop later this year or next year, I'll be skipping them anyway.
I don't think I can go back to a non-ultrawide for gaming. Been on my current one for almost four years and I just appreciate the width too much.
8GB vram will become a bottleneck in newer titles. It's better to get a GPU with atleast 12GB if you want some future proofing.
The PC that you linked is also quite expensive for the specifications. With this budget you should be able to get a better GPU.
This is the builders thread after all, so I need to ask the question: would you be able to build yourself?
Just as an example, this is what a 1500 PC could look like: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/mdffL9
I use fan control as well and shit just randomly stops seeing my fans. Can't seem to find a way to get it to see them again, but they randomly come back. It's extremely annoying.
It just updated like yesterday or something and stopped seeing my GPU fans lol.
Ahh, that's beautiful for that price, thanks for putting that together. I think it's just fear more than anything else haha. The amount of $$$ you can save, and customization ability might make it worth it though.
Got the 7800X3D plus ram and mobo from Microcenter.
If you use their custom AMD PC builder and select the 7800X3D bundle that will put the CPU at $216 which is an awesome deal for a 7800X3D. Them you can change the mobo and Ram and it will keep the price on the CPU.
Here is a link for it https://www.microcenter.com/site/content/custom-pc-builder-amd.aspx#selector_7
Got mine pair with a MSI X670E Tomahawk and 32GB of G-Skill Trident Z5 6000 CL30 ram.
If you have a Microcenter credit card you get an extra 5% off. Everything was $580 for me.
Got something fun to do this weekend. This will be replacing a Core i7 9700K
If you use their custom AMD PC builder and select the 7800X3D bundle that will put the CPU at $216 which is an awesome deal for a 7800X3D. Them you can change the mobo and Ram and it will keep the price on the CPU.
Here is a link for it https://www.microcenter.com/site/content/custom-pc-builder-amd.aspx#selector_7
Got mine pair with a MSI X670E Tomahawk and 32GB of G-Skill Trident Z5 6000 CL30 ram.
If you have a Microcenter credit card you get an extra 5% off. Everything was $580 for me.
Got something fun to do this weekend. This will be replacing a Core i7 9700K
13% from Rakuten right now means their normal 3% plus 10% booster.
But, the 10% boosters cap out at $50. So for a purchase over $1,000 it will be 3% + $50.
And that's if they approve cashback after You have used coupons. Sometimes Rakuten doesnt.
One of the pros of using retailmenot cashback, is they encourage you to stack coupons and other deals. Evennother cashback. So, Microsoft cashback stacks with Retailmenot, no problem.
Oh good to know thanks. Well, I'll say, I'd already placed a pickup order locally for more than just the coupon discount with LG, so I'll be spending less than my max I wanted to spend even with no rebate. Maybe I can cancel the LG order and try RetailMeNot and MS cashback.
8GB GPUs are already running into all sorts of problems in modern AAA games. If you want any sort of longevity you don't want a 8GB GPU. Don't buy that prebuilt.
Now that I've have time to put the PC back up, it won't turn on. Fans don't spin, the mother board doesn't light up, nothing.
Is it just the CPU that's dead or has it taken other components with it ?
Is it just the CPU that's dead or has it taken other components with it ?
I was inspired by this thread,I figured this'd be the place to ask for recommendations on g-sync hdr capable 1440p monitors. I'm still rocking a 5-6 years old Acer Predator XB271HU and I cant shake the feeling that getting another 27 inch one would be a sidegrade even with the addition of HDR. Guess its somewhat of a dumb TV mentality, gotta have a bigger screen for it to feel like an upgrade.
I've got a 4070 so 4K gaming is out of question on newer titles and from what comments I've read 1440p doesnt look all that great on a 4k monitor.
All the >27" 1440p ones I've found are ultrawide and from what I remember from the last 2 decades spent on gaming forums/steam, theres often some fuckery going on with UW support, either it doesnt work before patches or straight up doesnt exist.
Ive been eyeing DELL Alienware AW3423DWF but dont know if its worth the hassle if I have to tinker with each and every game. Can someone sell me on UW, like how bad is it on your neck if at all?
The F version of the monitor is without built-in g-sync module so no "G-SYNC ULTIMATE"' designation either, is it a sticker or is the difference actually noticable?
I guess the real question is whether the difference between these 2 G-Sync monitors worth 1000 USD or should I wait till 2nd or 3rd gen OLEDs monitors, once they become more mainstream like TVs ?
I've got a 4070 so 4K gaming is out of question on newer titles and from what comments I've read 1440p doesnt look all that great on a 4k monitor.
All the >27" 1440p ones I've found are ultrawide and from what I remember from the last 2 decades spent on gaming forums/steam, theres often some fuckery going on with UW support, either it doesnt work before patches or straight up doesnt exist.
Ive been eyeing DELL Alienware AW3423DWF but dont know if its worth the hassle if I have to tinker with each and every game. Can someone sell me on UW, like how bad is it on your neck if at all?
The F version of the monitor is without built-in g-sync module so no "G-SYNC ULTIMATE"' designation either, is it a sticker or is the difference actually noticable?
I guess the real question is whether the difference between these 2 G-Sync monitors worth 1000 USD or should I wait till 2nd or 3rd gen OLEDs monitors, once they become more mainstream like TVs ?
Start at the wall and work your way in. Since the machine was moved I'd check everything:
- Is there anything rattling around or came loose during the move that could cause a short ( a screw behind the motherboard, etc.)
- Is the power supply plugged in and turned on? Right voltage selection?
- Are all the cables between the PS and Mobo plugged in snug
- Are the cables between the motherboard and the power switch on the case connected and snug
- Try unplugging from AC, pulling the battery, and then hitting the power button to discharge, then put everything back and try to power up again.
Ordered a Palit 4080 from overclockers to install over the bank holiday weekend, Ā£960 is a great price and very similar to what I spent for the 1080ti nearly 7 years ago. I'll likely replace my 5600x cpu in a month or so for a 5700x3D or 5800X3D depending on price at the time. Can't wait to ditch using FSR, its allowed me to play a number of games at 60fps but titles like Warhammer 40k darktide look pretty blurry.
If you need 12GB of VRAM on a budget, XFX has a 6750 XT for $300 on Amazon and Newegg.
*actually it's $309 on Amazon. But it will ship fast, if you have prime. Newegg's free shipping is usually about 5 days.
Great card. Should do 1440p/60 with good settings in most games, for a while.
Obliterates a 3060 12GB. For more/less the same money.
*actually it's $309 on Amazon. But it will ship fast, if you have prime. Newegg's free shipping is usually about 5 days.
Great card. Should do 1440p/60 with good settings in most games, for a while.
Obliterates a 3060 12GB. For more/less the same money.
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I didn't think to check for loose screws but will do so tomorrow. Thanks.
If they're there, what do I do ? Just remove the offending screw and hope for the best ?
There's no rattling and I've checked everything for snugness, everything's all right.
I did think about clearing the CMOS but there's a catch : I use a B450 board and won't have internet access for some weeks. I'll have no way to update the BIOS to accommodate the 5800x3D. I do have an old 3600 that I can, at least, use to troubleshoot (and just use for the duration). Do I need to clear CMOS in that case ?
So, as I'm waiting for my HDR-capable monitor to arrive, I went ahead and finally updated from W10 to W11.
Are there any guides or suggestions for things I should enable / disable, or at least things to be aware of with 11?
Sorta related - anyone have HDR content (games preferably but anything is fine) they'd recommend for someone that's never used HDR before?
Are there any guides or suggestions for things I should enable / disable, or at least things to be aware of with 11?
Sorta related - anyone have HDR content (games preferably but anything is fine) they'd recommend for someone that's never used HDR before?
Some boards or power supplies have short protection built-in. I just figured it was worth checking to make sure nothing shifted or rattled around during the move. But if your HW has that then it might power up once you removed the short and tried to turn it on.
Your BIOS version won't revert back to stock if you remove the battery. If it was working with the 5800X3D before, clearing the CMOS won't change that. It will just reset the settings to the defaults for the installed HW.
Essentially, you should re-seat everything.
Remove the Gpu and reinstall it.
Unplug all cables and re-plug them.
Remove RAM and them reinstall it, etc.
Remove SSD and reinstall them.
Loosen the screws for mounting the mobo. And then re-tighten them.
Re-seat all of the little connectors for the front panel stuff (power button, etc).
Resetting the CMOS doesn't hurt.
We have to Rule out anything being knocked out of place by the move.
If it still doesn't work, then yes, clear the cmos and test it with the 3600.
Cyberpunk, God of War, Death Stranding have some of the better HDR implementations on PC. Cyberpunk was broken when released but has since been fixed. I'm playing Horizon Forbidden West right now and HDR looks pretty good.
What is the tinkering you're anticipating in games with the Alienware? You mean for ultrawide support? It's almost never an issue these days. The few games which don't have native support either get it with an update, have a mod and there are apps like Flawless Widescreen. There's no issue with your neck - just have it a reasonable distance and you get used to it quickly. I've been using 34" UWs since like 2013 and got used to the 38" so quickly that I'd be willing to go to an even bigger UW when the specs are there - something like 45". I can't say I'll "never" go back to non-UW displays because I never say never to anything but it's hard for me to imagine. UWs are the best. I also have the Neo G9 (49") in a dedicated racing rig and what a great experience that is.
I've cleared CMOS and installed the 3600 : the PC works perfectly. It's the 5800x3d that's dead.
Is there any chance this is a BIOS issue, i.e., you need a newer BIOS update for your motherboard to recognize the 5800X3D?
Yes, I was mostly worried about support for games. I remember some bigger games like Elden Ring not supporting it, but I guess if I'm willing to spend dozens of hours modding Bethesda games I shouldnt be crying about some lighter stuff. Thanks for the answer!
What the hell's up with motherboards these days?
I try to look at just a few... let's look at MSI, AM5, B-series. That should narrow it down pretty well, right? They still have like eight of them. I don't even know what I'm looking at yet, just trying to get a feel for the options, and it's already "HERE'S A THOUSAND CHOICES".
I try to look at just a few... let's look at MSI, AM5, B-series. That should narrow it down pretty well, right? They still have like eight of them. I don't even know what I'm looking at yet, just trying to get a feel for the options, and it's already "HERE'S A THOUSAND CHOICES".