TP-Link WiFi 6 AX3000 PCIe Card (Archer TX3000E), https://a.co/d/9caQ0bN
it all depends on what you use. I routinely get close to 1gb/s download speeds with this (I also have a wifi 6 mesh setup with ethernet backhaul).
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The PC Builders Thread ("I Need a New PC") v3
- Thread starter Crazymoogle
- Start date
- PC Tech OT
it all depends on what you use. I routinely get close to 1gb/s download speeds with this (I also have a wifi 6 mesh setup with ethernet backhaul).
Once in an unlucky while, Windows will put the boot sector on a secondary drive.
You can try using your Windows install media to detect and repair the Windows install. But if the boot sector is indeed completely missing, it likely will not work. If the boot sector is there but simply has a problem, it can work. You may also have to do it via the command prompt options, rather than the automatic fix option.
Welp, been on the hunt for a new display to use for this new PC I built a few months ago and wound up just going for a LG C3 42 with the Black Friday prices. 42" is honestly a lot bigger than I was planning for, but none of the actual 'true' monitors I saw were really grabbing me for gaming use (along with watching movies/TV), especially with 1440p OLED monitors being in the same exact price range. So wound up gravitating towards the C3 (especially since 120 Hz is more than enough for me). I measured it out so I know it should fit fine on my desk, though fingers crossed it doesn't feel too overwhelmingly large for my desk (imagine it will take a bit to get used to regardless).
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Ohh, yeah like ChitonIV said, you might have same problem I had. There could be hidden system partition on your 500GB drive if when you installed windows you had the 2 drives in the pc. When you take one out, windows won't load.
You can try putting back your 500GB drive if you still have it and see if windows loads. If so, then you can try rebuild the system partition / boot files on your C drive, and then safely remove the 500GB drive and install the 2TB.
<- link to ms forum discussion
I used the bcdboot C:\Windows /s C: command to create the boot files.
Any thoughts on these monitors?
Acer Nitro XV271U https://www.amazon.co.uk/Acer-Nitro-XV271UM3Bmiiprfx-Gaming-Monitor/dp/B0C4TY27V6/
BenQ EX2710Q https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B096B2XQVJ/?th=1
Acer Nitro XV271U https://www.amazon.co.uk/Acer-Nitro-XV271UM3Bmiiprfx-Gaming-Monitor/dp/B0C4TY27V6/
BenQ EX2710Q https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B096B2XQVJ/?th=1
Time sensitive question here, applies for today only I think.
Is it worth returning this RAM and getting this other RAM? To go with 7800X3D.
I got this one from Amazon a few days ago, same price as Newegg, $105. GSkill Flare X5 DDR5 6000 CL30-38-38-96.
This extremely similar RAM from the same company is effectively $47 (EDIT: cart price since adjusted higher) once Newegg's promos and combo-up savings kick in for pairing it with the 7800X3D ($369 + another $10 discount by itself). Also DDR5 6000, with CL 36-36-36-96.
Both are 33m tall. Both are supported by the mobo I'm likely to get.
I'm guessing my original purchase is only very fractionally faster? OTOH, that's less than half the price, which is a substantial difference if the performance diff is negligible.
EDIT: Must have been an error, the cart now shows a higher price than before. The second RAM still ends up cheaper though, at $85.
EDIT: I see, they've removed the "combo up" savings.
Is it worth returning this RAM and getting this other RAM? To go with 7800X3D.
I got this one from Amazon a few days ago, same price as Newegg, $105. GSkill Flare X5 DDR5 6000 CL30-38-38-96.
This extremely similar RAM from the same company is effectively $47 (EDIT: cart price since adjusted higher) once Newegg's promos and combo-up savings kick in for pairing it with the 7800X3D ($369 + another $10 discount by itself). Also DDR5 6000, with CL 36-36-36-96.
Both are 33m tall. Both are supported by the mobo I'm likely to get.
I'm guessing my original purchase is only very fractionally faster? OTOH, that's less than half the price, which is a substantial difference if the performance diff is negligible.
EDIT: Must have been an error, the cart now shows a higher price than before. The second RAM still ends up cheaper though, at $85.
EDIT: I see, they've removed the "combo up" savings.
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OMG, thank you to both of you. I never would have figured this out.
Im not sure how the boot sector went to my secondary drive, but everything is great now.
Sorry you went through that, but I'm glad I saw it. I'll be building mine soon and it didn't cross my mind to only have the one SSD in there for the initial setup, but I'll definitely do that now.
IMO, this is the best mid-range 27 inch IPS monitor, right now. It does almost everything well.
Very accurate out of the box. SRGB color coverage is 100% and the color volume at varied brightness levels, is above average for an IPS.
Fantastic response times
better contrast/black luminance, than the majority of IPS monitors
Great brightness
No issues with color banding
Low input lag, even at 60hz
better than typical text clarity
Official support to downscale 4K signals from consoles.
Dell G2724D Review
The Dell G2724D is an entry-level gaming monitor with a 27-inch screen and 1440p resolution. It has a 165Hz refresh rate, and it's designed for gamers who need a...
www.rtings.com
About the only thing its missing from a more expensive IPS panel, is more color volume for REC. 2020 (which is only relevant for HDR. Which IPS panels aren't great for, anyway). and its HDMI ports are 2.0 instead of HDMI 2.1.
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Glad this worked out, I've had the same problem before. I have ever since installed Windows with only one drive connected to prevent it from happening.
Thanks for the suggestion, looks great but found it unfortunately doesn't have built in speakers or an audio port, both of which I would want. :(IMO, this is the best mid-range 27 inch IPS monitor, right now. It does almost everything well.
Very accurate out of the box. SRGB color coverage is 100% and the color volume at varied brightness levels, is above average for an IPS.
Fantastic response times
better contrast/black luminance, than the majority of IPS monitors
Great brightness
No issues with color banding
Low input lag, even at 60hz
better than typical text clarity
Official support to downscale 4K signals from consoles.
Dell G2724D Review
The Dell G2724D is an entry-level gaming monitor with a 27-inch screen and 1440p resolution. It has a 165Hz refresh rate, and it's designed for gamers who need a...
About the only thing its missing from a more expensive IPS panel, is more color volume for REC. 2020 (which is only relevant for HDR. Which IPS panels aren't great for, anyway). and its HDMI ports are 2.0 instead of HDMI 2.1.
I wonder if there will be an Asus ROG Zenith motherboard for this generation of Threadrippers.
I would totally look into a god tier build with it if so
EDIT: having seen the Gamers Nexus video, maybe I won't. Seems to be a worse gaming performer than my 7950X. Mind you, Gamers Nexus isn't doing any overclocking and I've seen some reports of some good overclocking potential. If this gen of Threadripper can somehow get to parity with regular Zen 4 in gaming, build consideration will be back on.
EDIT2: This Level1Techs video review seems to be pretty kind to the Threadripper 7000 series CPUs and their ability to run myriad background processes while gaming which is a big thing for me with all of my audio hardware and software that is always running in the background. So maybe this will be good for me.
View: https://youtu.be/uG0Al4_tnzU?si=PlkorVbNU6AVLpZq
I would totally look into a god tier build with it if so
EDIT: having seen the Gamers Nexus video, maybe I won't. Seems to be a worse gaming performer than my 7950X. Mind you, Gamers Nexus isn't doing any overclocking and I've seen some reports of some good overclocking potential. If this gen of Threadripper can somehow get to parity with regular Zen 4 in gaming, build consideration will be back on.
EDIT2: This Level1Techs video review seems to be pretty kind to the Threadripper 7000 series CPUs and their ability to run myriad background processes while gaming which is a big thing for me with all of my audio hardware and software that is always running in the background. So maybe this will be good for me.
View: https://youtu.be/uG0Al4_tnzU?si=PlkorVbNU6AVLpZq
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Just wanted to say, thank you very much for the advice. I've returned the old RAM and ordered your recommendation. I'm in the UK and weirdly it appears unavailable here, so I had to order from the States, but I figured might as well get this right the first time, so it's worth the wait.
Will build in a couple weeks time and post some pics.
Wish they included M1/M2 ultra in the lineup of tests too. Some of the compute workloads will benefit from the high memory bandwidth (CFD for example).
Yep, surprised to even see a dedication to gaming segments (not engine development, running games). Some intel HEDT cpus were sought after by consumers due to a lot of pcie lanes + high core or frequency count, but threadrippers?
Ehhh it's been long established that they're not suitable for it al all :p. I guess AMD wanted reviewers to put it in there for marketing xD.
Yep, surprised to even see a dedication to gaming segments (not engine development, running games). Some intel HEDT cpus were sought after by consumers due to a lot of pcie lanes + high core or frequency count, but threadrippers?
Ehhh it's been long established that they're not suitable for it al all :p. I guess AMD wanted reviewers to put it in there for marketing xD.
Speakers will drastically limit your options.
That said, Benq sometimes makes good monitors, with better than usual speakers.
Asus ProArt monitors also sometimes have speakers.
Yeah, I've noticed...
Unfortunately it just works so much better for my use-case and setup, I don't even need the speakers to be particularly good so I would prefer a better screen with so so speakers, to a decent screen better speakers.
Thanks for the Asus suggestion, I'll keep looking around.
ahhhh yeah this happened with my brother's computer. We'd originally installed Windows on one M.2 and then when I was doing a reinstall I installed on disk1 instead of disk0, but it left all the UEFI stuff on disk1. You probably removed the M.2 SSD that has all the UEFI stuff on it.
I ended up just doing a complete wipe and reinstall again. Not sure if this can be fixed in some less destructive way or not.
I'm watching the price on the sapphire 7900xtx nitro to see if it goes down under $900. I want better 4k performance and don't even use RT on my 3070ti, so I think the trade-off might be worth it depending on the price. it also looks like the length is just enough to fit in my case…
that said, yall can save me some money by telling me it is not a good idea to pair it with a RM750x. laziness of rewiring my computer will probably save me on that LOL
that said, yall can save me some money by telling me it is not a good idea to pair it with a RM750x. laziness of rewiring my computer will probably save me on that LOL
Ah, yeah there was most likely some Hynix A-Die SKU that would've been available in the UK, I'm just not sure what it is. Either way, you should be good to go with that A-Die kit you ordered. When setting up your BIOS, watch this video and apply its timings (ignore the SOC voltage and just set yours to auto though, since there have been some developments in that area since the making of this video)
View: https://youtu.be/dlYxmRcdLVw?si=-bc-TnpRr84JRt5T
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So I was finally able to score a 4090(upgrading from a 3090 FTW3) without the 30-50% markup. My current PSU is an EVGA SuperNova 850 Gold. I've seen mixed reports(and calculations) on whether or not this will suffice. GPU will be paired with an i9 11900k for 4K gaming.
Should I go ahead and have a 1000w ready to go if needed(which is what I'm leaning towards)?
Should I go ahead and have a 1000w ready to go if needed(which is what I'm leaning towards)?
It appears that the 4070ti super duper is going to have 16gb of vram, so could be a bit more future proof I suppose compared to the 12gb, depends on nvidias pricing of the super cards
I imagine the 4070ti Super won't be sub $800 like the pricing on the 7900XT or 4070ti are right now so I guess it's then a question of 16GB vs the DLSS suite of features.
Other 7900 XTX will likely be a better deal. The Nitro is one of the most expensive models. Sapphire Pulse, Asrock Phantom Gaming, and XFX 7900 XTX should all be priced lower. XFX has been pretty aggressive in the past couple of days.
If you want to wait for the Super, which would be a better product, you'd be waiting until at least CES in January, if we are to believe kopite7kimi
We got a Pulse for my partner around March and it was only like $930 at the time, which is crazy.
Seriously, it's a really fast GPU. Yes, it doesn't have DLSS, but damn it's good.
The 4070 TI super is faster and has more VRAM-----and will also cost more. You can already get a faster product with more VRAM, right now. It costs more.
The 4070 Super is the only one of the "super" cards, which may not really cost more than the current pricing of the card which it will be superseding. *And that is only because AMD's 7800 XT has been selling VERY well.
i'm actually eyeing the pulse, it's $920 currently. also perfect length as well.
SolidSnakeUS do you know what power supply your partner has? sounds like it works well lol
Im having some issue with my PC that has been persisting infrequently for a few months
I will sometimes get "disk read error" and have to reset
I suspect the SSD, which is 10+ years for my C Drive is dying, but my Windows is on it and I have no idea how to transfer it to another drive. It sounds like a headache. Id rather just clean install it, how can I do so?
Anyways, very rarely when I put it to sleep, the fan just NON STOP runs at high and I cant even power it off until I switch it off from the PSU. Oddly, when I did this, and switched it back on, my PC reactivated as if it was in sleep mode. Is this some dangerous issue or is it just a dying SSD
Any advice?
I will sometimes get "disk read error" and have to reset
I suspect the SSD, which is 10+ years for my C Drive is dying, but my Windows is on it and I have no idea how to transfer it to another drive. It sounds like a headache. Id rather just clean install it, how can I do so?
Anyways, very rarely when I put it to sleep, the fan just NON STOP runs at high and I cant even power it off until I switch it off from the PSU. Oddly, when I did this, and switched it back on, my PC reactivated as if it was in sleep mode. Is this some dangerous issue or is it just a dying SSD
Any advice?
Thanks, if I try to preserve everything through a media install, can I still install to a different SSD? I want to be rid of the default C Drive that Windows is currently on
My spouse needs a new PC. Their current PC case is this one (Coolermaster N200) and it's... pretty old? We're thinking of doing something with RGB (PA 120 ARGB?) but a new case would be $100CAD or so. Not out of budget but money that could be spent elsewhere, y'know.
Requirements;
Requirements;
- Current case is pretty quiet when idle, load is pretty quiet too (i3 6100, ATI 7700)
- New machine is TBD but will be specced out around RX6600 and some mid range processor paired with it, perhaps a 5600 or maybe another i3.
- Gaming is light; Stardew Valley, Minecraft, Sun Haven, Team Fortress 2, Deltarune, Undertale, Human Fall Flat, Gang Beasts. Burnout Paradise. There's some heavier stuff mixed into there from time to time but never AAA gaming.
- The RX6600 is probably overkill for the given games but if it ages well for ~5-6 years and I don't have to worry about it again then that's a win.
- Thermals in the N200 seem so-so, to bad. Not sure how much it matters for this use case
- No tempered glass, so no RGB shining through, which is a plus for them
- USB-C front header?
- Better cable management.. I can't tell if I'm just bad or not when I built this thing originally but the N200 cable management does not look fun
Even though your proposed system is mid-level I'd throw it in a mid-tower for more cooling and every modern case lets you hide most of the cabling in the back. The only reason I WOULDN'T do that is if the $100 CAD means the difference between a new case and better hardware (CPU, GPU, RAM, storage). If it's between spending it on the hardware and the case, go hardware. The parts you mentioned aren't scorching hot and if they run a bit warm in a mini tower, it's really not a big deal.
Is there a specific recommendation? I've been looking at https://www.logicalincrements.com/
We won't be spending more on the other hardware because they would just waste power for things that will never be played. The RX6600 is already kind of pushing it in terms of the types of games being played from what I understand but at least they can be played in higher refresh rate.
EDIT: The first thing you should do is to get the software from the manufacturer of your SSD that can update its firmware and check its health. As long as everything is fine there...
Try resetting CMOS. Also try updating BIOS. Also try setting your RAM back to stock/default/JEDEC settings to see if this persists. If it still persists you may as well set the RAM back to DOCP/XMP/EXPO. Also try rearranging the RAM sticks. On the surface this disk read error thing will likely seem RAM related, but from my experience it's usually something much harder to nail down and it's quite possible none of this will do the trick and it's some dumb software issue that makes absolutely no sense.
Kneejerk diagnosis to your computer responding the way it is responding to sleep mode is a slightly unstable RAM configuration though. If your motherboard has some kind of error code LED I'm willing to bet it will give you a RAM error code when the fans are going full blast. aforementioned troubleshooting steps also apply for this.
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Hi,
I'm building my son's first pc and I have a budget of about 1000,-. I honestly haven't been keeping up with any of the developments after I build my system 3 years ago aside from GPU's so I'm hoping for some input from you.
I luckily have spare/unused parts so the 1000,- doesn't need to cover this:
I'm basically looking for a good system that if we decide to upgrade his GPU in a few years time, wont be severely held back by a slower CPU or limited ram, but at the same time I don't think a 16 core CPU is needed. So preferably one of this generations AMD or Intel CPU's.
Hope someone can push me in the right direction. Let me know if you need more information.
I'm building my son's first pc and I have a budget of about 1000,-. I honestly haven't been keeping up with any of the developments after I build my system 3 years ago aside from GPU's so I'm hoping for some input from you.
I luckily have spare/unused parts so the 1000,- doesn't need to cover this:
- Monitor (he'll get my current 27" 1440p 240hz Legion)
- I have 2 NVME 1tb GEN4 drives from current PC that I'll use for his.
- My Nvidia 2080ti
- Case (I want to make it somewhat portable and decided to go with the Fractal Terra). This does mean I need a smaller size motherboard.
- I have a keyboard and mouse for him, not the best but perfectly fine ones.
I'm basically looking for a good system that if we decide to upgrade his GPU in a few years time, wont be severely held back by a slower CPU or limited ram, but at the same time I don't think a 16 core CPU is needed. So preferably one of this generations AMD or Intel CPU's.
Hope someone can push me in the right direction. Let me know if you need more information.
Mobo - MSI B650 Edge WiFi Mini ITX motherboard - $250 on Amazon right now
CPU - Ryzen 7800X3D CPU - $360 on Amazon right now
RAM - G.Skill 32GB DDR5 CL30 RAM F5-6000J3038F16GX2-TZ5NR - $117.99 on Amazon and Newegg right now
PSU - Thermaltake Toughpower SFX 1000W - $199.99 on Newegg right now.
CPU Cooler - Thermalright AXP120-X67 - $37 on Amazon right now
Noctua NF-A12x15 fan to replace cooler fan for clearance reasons - $27 on Amazon right now
Noctua NF-A12x25 fan for bottom of case - $34.95 on Amazon right now
Thatt's up there with the best in gaming CPUs, it's the best sweet spot DDR5 RAM for Zen 4, and you can throw a RTX 4090 in that build later on, or whatever the higher end next gen GPU is and it'll handle it like a champ.
Pre-tax total: $1026
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Not directly related but reminds me about m.2 ssd's installed on the mobos. What sucks about m.2 ssds is that if you more than one installed on the mobo, there is no easy plug to pull a cable to disable the other ones and no options in the bios to turn them off digitally.
So to stop windows using another like that you have to open your case, take out the graphics card (risk damaging something), fiddle around with the ssd to take it out (more risk), then put it together again, -then- install windows, then repeat to install the ssd(s). I remember forum posts elsewhere talking about how expensive mobo's don't have the option to disable an m.2 ssd (some don't even allow sata port disabling) when old mobos had the option for their sata ports.
Awesome thank you, this looks very good. Didn't think a x800X3D type CPU would be possible, so this is great! I know the 5800X3D was a beast for gaming, back when I had to decide on my CPU so this 7800X3D will probably last him a long time.
I know I had 2 Noctua fans left from my NcaseM1 build, but I have to check the type when I get home; there's a chance I may not even need to buy those.
Thanks again!