You will regret 55" if you wanted the 65" and have the room for it. Size is the #1 TV regret people have.
You will regret 55" if you wanted the 65" and have the room for it. Size is the #1 TV regret people have.
I don't know if I have the size for it!
In the house I bought the living/family room only has one good place for the TV/Speaker setup. And because when I was younger (like 21) I got these massive Polk tower speakers on a firesale from some store. I hate how big they are and they usually make planning anything a pain. They sound fantastic (they're my fronts and center), they're just so god damn big. I've seriously thought about replacing them but I just don't want to spend the extra money :lol
Makes sense. Those 10"s are a massive difference though. How far away do you sit?
Read a rumor on AVSForum that the 2018 LG OLED's will have the Active HDR feature applied to Game Mode, this would completely solve the complaint about HDR Game Mode being too dim. If true, hopefully they can apply it to the 2017 models.
It's Samsung's marketing trying to make it look like they have something like OLED.. but it's just LCD.
As long as the B8 (Alpha 7) can handle it, then yeah 2017 will get it too.
Isn't the A7 more powerful than the chips in the 7 series sets?
A7 is the same chip as in the 2017 sets, but the A9 which is in C8/E8/W8, is more powerful.
That would be neat.Read a rumor on AVSForum that the 2018 LG OLED's will have the Active HDR feature applied to Game Mode, this would completely solve the complaint about HDR Game Mode being too dim. If true, hopefully they can apply it to the 2017 models.
Boy, the difference between 75" and 65" is a cool £1000. Does it justify 10"s more...a hundred pounds for every inch? Hmm. I could put that £1000 towards something else. Plus my flat isn't that big really. Decent for a one bedroom but not huge and 75" will easily dominate it. So, if not 75" (and the Sony KD75XE904) then is it the LG 65B7 or the Panasonic 65EZ952? LG has Dolby Vision. Panasonic has very low input lag and Black Frame Insertion (LG OLED's don't I believe). Panasonic is a bit pricier.
Or just wait for the new TV's to turn up.
Was so ready to pull the trigger on C7 OLED, but doing one last round of research, saw the burn in tests from RTings... so back to the drawing board on that I guess.
Anyone have the Sony 930E?
Was so ready to pull the trigger on C7 OLED, but doing one last round of research, saw the burn in tests from RTings... so back to the drawing board on that I guess.
Anyone have the Sony 930E?
Was so ready to pull the trigger on C7 OLED, but doing one last round of research, saw the burn in tests from RTings... so back to the drawing board on that I guess.
Yep, if you are going to be using your TV in the way RTings are abusing theirs, it's probably wise to give OLED a miss.
But not even those abuse tests have issues with gaming HUDs, so I don't know what you're talking about. I got 105 hours in BotW myself.Probably not so rare on a gaming enthusiast board, though. If playing games with static HUDs for 150+ hours is abuse, I guess I'm a TV abuser. I did it again with BotW just last year.
Apparently logo dimming options are available again on the 2018 LGs as another option to slow burn-in. Interested to see how that turns out.
But not even those abuse tests have issues with gaming HUDs, so I don't know what you're talking about. I got 105 hours in BotW myself.
If you run your TV 20 hours a day 7 days a week playing a single game, I think OLED burn-in or abuse should be one of your minor worries.. And even in those tests Call of Duty and FIFA HUDs show no signs of burn-in after 6 weeks.
Probably not so rare on a gaming enthusiast board, though. If playing games with static HUDs for 150+ hours is abuse, I guess I'm a TV abuser. I did it again with BotW just last year.
Apparently logo dimming options are available again on the 2018 LGs as another option to slow burn-in. Interested to see how that turns out.
Yeah, I've read this plenty of times so I'll wait until the unit has settled before any major changes.You are kidding, I pretty much just gamed on it, since the first time I put it on, honesty don't worry about it, the only thing you might want to be mindful of, is not getting it calibrated before the first 200 hours or so, but that's it. Enjoy :)
Not sure my TV will have that option (never specifically read about it for it). I'll check when it comes.Nah, you're good to go. Just keep the anti-retention features like pixel shift enabled. For some reason I had it disabled and ended up with a Netflix logo permanently burnt in.
It was just a comment on a message board, not an official statement.Do you have a source for the not playing on the tv? is there any particular reason? i have not heard this before, maybe they want you to have someone calibrate it before being used?
When i got mine I had to wait for my move to deliver my gaming stuff so I only had access to youtube and netflix and i used to that semi calibrate the tv. Once i got my tv and consoles i set up everything properly, but no idea how much time i spent on the tv before that happened.
Something that you should be aware of that scared the crap out of me on the TV was sun stains. Just try to not leave the tv in direct sunlight or where sun bounces hard on to it. I just refreshed the pixels and that did the trick when i got an aura but it scared the shit out of me.
I would:
1) Use the recommended settings from a reputable site as a baseline and then adjust upscaling and motion...
2) according to my own taste and sources BUT...
3) leave the color adjustements alone until I got at least 200-300 hours on the set and then...
4) let a calibrator adjust the whole set...
5) finally, I would avoid gaming in general and HDR gaming in particular for the first 100-200 hours as well as being careful to setup all screen saving functionality on both the set and the connected devices.
Of course some people might find all the above excessive, so it's your call!
Sounds like it could be a little over-the-top scaremongering but I have no experience with OLED and I've never not used all my previous TV's to their full potential right from the off.As long as sourceS with static content is not in HDR you should be fine. But if you want to be extra careful avoid those too. Also this is a bit dependent on your other settings. If you have brightness on max all the time you might want to avoid static content in the beginning.
What, FIFA and COD has static HUD and after 6 weeks those show no signs, so it clearly does matter when the earlier test show IR after only 2 weeks.They included a static logo in their test. That's equivalent to a static HUD. The 20 hours a day things does not matter. The important thing is the cumulative number of hours.
Don't worry, won't reply further on the topic, it's a beaten dead horse after all. Sorry for that.Welp, here we go again, tried to direct people to the OP about burn in, but didn't work. Time to checkout from the thread for a few days...
Are we going to have a 10 page discussion about this again? That's why we put info on the OP about this.
Never really considered keeping the TV out of direct sunlight or away from strong light bounce. What is the effect on the TV? If, for instance, the sun highlights half of the TV would that half appear slightly washed out/less bright with a clear band?
Are there any HDMI cable recommendations? I'm currently using a Cambridge Audio HDMI cable that's over 5 years old and I'll be connecting my PS4 Pro directly to the TV so a 1 meter cable will suffice (I'll use optical to the receiver for sound).
Oh, and I understand I also need to use HDMI port 2 or 3 for Advanced 4K/HDR settings, I think!
Thanks for your help everyone.
Just ordered a 65inch LG B7 OLED. Also bundled it with a LG S9 soundbar since it had a fantastic discount.
I've already got my consoles moved over to my living room entertainment center, which is also new. Basically everything is ready to go, save for the shorter ethernet cables I just ordered from Monoprice. I'm not playing anything multiplayer right now, so it'll be about a week of Wifi connection until the shorter ethernet cables show up. The TV will be able to connect to WiFi to retrieve its firmware updates, yes? I won't be using WebOS on the TV, I've already got a 2017 Nvidia Shield TV that I'll be using for my streaming needs. I grabbed a standalone UHD player as well, but I just realized the model I got is not Dolby Vision compatible, which is why I thought to buy a second one -- sad I found myself with a hasty purchase there. I'll probably take it back and exchange it for a Dolby Vision compatible player, though despite buying UHDs for almost a year now, I'm not sure I actually have any movies that output in Dolby Vision, so HDR10 only might be just fine.
I just ended up grabbing Rocketfish HDMI cables for my Nvidia Shield and UHD player -- that should be enough for all my needs on those devices, right? They say 4K+HDR ready on the front, and 18Gbps transfer speed on the back of the box. Also, the PS4 Pro and the PSVR 2.0 both come packed with 4K+HDR ready cables, so I don't need to worry on that front, right (I know PSVR 2.0 has 4K+HDR passthrough)? I also have an Xbox One X and I know the cable it came with is ready to go for sure.
Any other tips to prepare for my ascension into 4K+HDR territory?
https://slickdeals.net/share/iphone_app/t/11365867
If you live near a Frys, 1100 for the 65x900e is an insane deal
Get certified premium cables, not just ones that advertise that they are ok. They can be cheap Monoprice cables, but it can save headaches later.
https://slickdeals.net/share/iphone_app/t/11365867
If you live near a Frys, 1100 for the 65x900e is an insane deal
Nice! Is this Dolby vision compatible?https://slickdeals.net/share/iphone_app/t/11365867
If you live near a Frys, 1100 for the 65x900e is an insane deal
How do I tell if they're certified? Is there actually an organization that tracks and monitors manufacturers for that sort of thing, or is it something anyone can claim? And, I guess I should not at all be shocked if Best Buy's stuff isn't certified, but that's where I bought my cables for my nVidia Shield and UHD player -- got the RocketFish brand ones.
When you see the orange logo / QR code on the package or on the website such as: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=15427 then you know it's a certified cable.
I think I'm going with this TV as my choice to finally get 4K https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/vizio/p-series-xled-2017
Vizio P65 for $1200
I'd do the Sony X900E but it's like $200-300 more everywhere and I was already only planning to spend $1000
Supposedly awesome local dimming which is big to me.
I checked AVS Forum and reddit and they say the E1 model issue has been fixed by a firmware update. Seems like it is fixed so not sure where you are still seeing people have the issue.It has a manufacturing fault where a white flashing line appears from time to time. If you can live with it, then ok. If not, maybe Sony is a good option. And by the way, Vizio ain't going to do anything to fix it, check avsforums, unfortunately it's not a firmware, or panel replacement fix, the issue is in their parts.
https://slickdeals.net/share/iphone_app/t/11365867
If you live near a Frys, 1100 for the 65x900e is an insane deal