Burning questions about acne? Oily skin? Dry skin? Wrinkles?
You've come to the right place.
I've answered hundreds of questions in threads and in PMs over the years, and now, in this new place we now call home, I'll answer hundreds (?) more. But first, some (very brief) background:
Skin is complex. Complex as fuck. But there are a few ground rules that everyone should abide by to treat it right. As a note, I'm not in any way affiliated with any of the companies whose products I may happen to recommend in this thread now or later. I will also not post any URLs to any products because I'm not seeking any referral link-generated profit. I just want to help!
So with that, here we go:
Recommendations: BHA = Paula's Choice 2% BHA Liquid; AHA = Alpha Hydrox AHA 10% Glycolic Acid Enhanced Lotion, Paula's Choice RESIST Skin Revealing Body Lotion with 10% AHA
Recommendations: Facial sunscreen = Kiss My Face, Face Factor SPF 30; Body sunscreen = NO-AD SPF 45; Night facial moisturizer = Dr. Carver's Miracle Repair Serum; Night facial moisturizer = Olay Quench Body Lotion Ultra Moisture
OK, that hopefully wasn't too much.
But it's only the tip of the iceberg. This is a very broad overview of what your ideal skin care routine might look like. However, because skin is complex (as fuck), there's a whole host of other more specific concerns that people might face. So if you have any questions about the following:
EDIT: Some of the thread's most prolific routines!
My current routine, with a focus on oil control and pore size
Tabris' Asian beauty routine, a powerful toning/firming regimen: with pictures
Pet's exfoliating, resurfacing regimen
You've come to the right place.
I've answered hundreds of questions in threads and in PMs over the years, and now, in this new place we now call home, I'll answer hundreds (?) more. But first, some (very brief) background:
Skin is complex. Complex as fuck. But there are a few ground rules that everyone should abide by to treat it right. As a note, I'm not in any way affiliated with any of the companies whose products I may happen to recommend in this thread now or later. I will also not post any URLs to any products because I'm not seeking any referral link-generated profit. I just want to help!
So with that, here we go:
Step One: Cleanser
Cleansing is the first step to clearing dirt and oil from your face. This is important because the build-up of sebum (our body's naturally-produced oil), along with sweat and the general debris of the day, clog pores and provide the food source for the bacteria that cause acne and other facial blemishes. It's also important as a prep for the subsequent steps because it allows the active agents and other important ingredients to better penetrate the skin and do their job.
What To Look Out For: The best cleansers are free of fragrance, dyes, or any additive "tingling" ingredients like menthol or eucalyptus, which unfortunately pervade "men's" branded skin products. Since a cleanser is not meant to provide any skin care benefit beyond removing surface dirt and grime, it's also a waste of money to buy one that contains active ingredients like benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid. The twenty seconds or so that you rub it on before rinsing aren't enough time for them to penetrate into the skin.
Recommendations: CeraVe Foaming Facial Cleanser, Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser
What To Look Out For: The best cleansers are free of fragrance, dyes, or any additive "tingling" ingredients like menthol or eucalyptus, which unfortunately pervade "men's" branded skin products. Since a cleanser is not meant to provide any skin care benefit beyond removing surface dirt and grime, it's also a waste of money to buy one that contains active ingredients like benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid. The twenty seconds or so that you rub it on before rinsing aren't enough time for them to penetrate into the skin.
Recommendations: CeraVe Foaming Facial Cleanser, Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser
Step Two: Exfoliant
Exfoliating is the secret MVP of skin care. When we're younger, our skin naturally undergoes an accelerated cell turnover cycle that keeps it smooth, taut, and blemish-free. As we age, though, the combination of sun damage (we'll get back to this one), hormonal carnage, and poor lifestyle choices can leave skin sallow and unhealthy. Exfoliation through the use of products that contain beta-hydroxy and alpha-hydroxy acid help prevent and/or reverse skin damage by forcing the same accelerated cell turnover cycle that younger, healthier skin experiences. Its benefits are manifold: not only do you help reverse years of skin damage, but you also help ensure that future cellular turnover proceeds more smoothly and reveal younger-looking, healthier skin free of blackheads or whiteheads. As a note, BHA is best applied daily, whereas AHA is something that (due to its higher concentration) is better used weekly as an overnight treatment.
What To Look Out For: The best exfoliants are free of alcohols, essential fruit oils, or any other drying and/or irritating ingredients, and should be packaged in opaque containers that keep out sunlight, not jars that let in oxygen and dirty hands. They need not contain extra cell-communicating ingredients like niacinamide or Vitamin C, but it only helps.
Recommendations: BHA = Paula's Choice 2% BHA Liquid; AHA = Alpha Hydrox AHA 10% Glycolic Acid Enhanced Lotion, Paula's Choice RESIST Skin Revealing Body Lotion with 10% AHA
Step Three: Moisturizer/Sun Protection
Exfoliation is a supremely effective antidote to skin aging and blemishes, but proper use of moisturizer and sun protectant are the preventative measures that render those problems moot to begin with. Moisturizing your skin is important, even for those who naturally produce excess sebum, because it keeps wrinkles at bay and provides a range of cell-communicating ingredients that supplement the rapid cellular turnover promoted by exfoliation. More importantly, though, it also provides sun protection in the form of SPF (sun protection factor) that minimize the negative effects of UVA and UVB radiation on the skin. UVA radiation is the type of deeply penetrating radiation that causes wrinkles over time, and can even develop into melanoma (skin cancer), while UVB radiation is the type that, while not penetrating deeply into the dermal layers, does cause uncomfortable sunburns and can create hyperpigmentation (darkened skin discolorations). Your morning moisturizer should contain an SPF of at least 30, but you have no need to use SPF at night. UVA/UVB rays penetrate clouds, glass, and clothing (so sunscreen is a year-round must!), but for obvious reasons, are not present at night. As a note, since exfoliation can make the skin more photosensitive (vulnerable to sunlight), it's imperative to follow any day exfoliation with at least SPF 30.
What To Look Out For: In the morning, your moisturizer should be your sunscreen. Formulations nowadays (even mineral sunscreens containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide) don't leave the ghostly white-ish cast that you might remember from childhood excursions at the beach.
Recommendations: Facial sunscreen = Kiss My Face, Face Factor SPF 30; Body sunscreen = NO-AD SPF 45; Night facial moisturizer = Dr. Carver's Miracle Repair Serum; Night facial moisturizer = Olay Quench Body Lotion Ultra Moisture
OK, that hopefully wasn't too much.
But it's only the tip of the iceberg. This is a very broad overview of what your ideal skin care routine might look like. However, because skin is complex (as fuck), there's a whole host of other more specific concerns that people might face. So if you have any questions about the following:
- Mild-to-severe OTC or prescription acne treatment
- Enlarged pores
- Dry/oily/combination skin
- Shaving/grooming/ingrown hairs
- Toners/serums/lotions/masks/essential oils
- Laser treatments
- Skin lightening/brightening
- Diet/exercise/genetics
- Smoking/drinking/masturbation
EDIT: Some of the thread's most prolific routines!
My current routine, with a focus on oil control and pore size
Morning:
1) Cleanser: CeraVe Foaming Facial Cleanser (a gentle, low pH cleanser that is free of any fragrance, dyes, physical exfoliants, or any irritants, and lathers without the use of sulfates but is still powerful enough to remove sunscreen/makeup without the need for multiple rounds of cleansing; the Niacimamide and Ceramides help soothe skin and keep the moisture barrier intact while still providing a thorough cleansing)
2) Toner: Klairs Supple Preparation Facial Toner (perfect for humid/hot weather compared to the more emollient Paula's Choice-style toners, and the low concentration of plant/fruit oils is worth the pleasing natural fragrance; the Licorice Root Extract is a super calming ingredient that makes this a great aftershave)
3) Serum: Asterwood Naturals Matrixyl 3000 + Argireline Peptide + Vitamin C (a super light yet hydrating fluid that is loaded with skin-repairing peptides, antioxidants, and humectants at therapeutically appropriate concentrations for an absolutely absurdly affordable price - easily my favorite skin care product in years; Matrixyl is a fairly common blend of peptides that help fight off the onset of wrinkles, but in combination with the mild muscle relaxant Argireline, Hyaluronic Acid, and 20% Vitamin C in its most stable form, it's an absolutely brilliant formulation)
4) Sunscreen/Moisturizer: Paula's Choice Hydralight Shine-Free Mineral Complex SPF 30 (as a darker-skinned individual, I've never been a massive fan of mineral sunscreens, but this light, non-greasy formulation trades the white cast for a subtle, brightening glow and while the Shine-Free claims are not altogether fulfilled, it won't exacerbate any existing oiliness like my old emollient Kiss My Face sunscreen could sometimes do; Green Tea Leaf Extract, Chamomile Flower Extract, and Algae Extract are great additions that make this a great calming moisturizer in addition to a fantastic sunscreen)
5) Setting Powder: Physicians Formula Super BB Insta Ready Filter Trio Powder SPF 30 (I don't wear makeup, but for added SPF protection. a subtle setting powder like this one or other ones in the Physicians Formula line can help enhance your sunscreen's potency, with the added side benefit of reducing the appearance of shine without adding the appearance of wearing makeup; Mushroom Extract has nice antioxidant properties and Hydrogenated Castor Oil is always a winner for added moisture retention)
Evening:
1) Cleanser: CeraVe Foaming Facial Cleanser
2) Toner: Paula's Choice Skin Recovery Calming Toner (a milk-textured fluid that is a bit heavy for your average toner, but is so packed with skin-identical and cell-communicating ingredients that it could practically serve as a moisturizer on its own; Vitamin C, E and B5, along with Niacinamide, not to mention all the soothing anti-irritants like Allantoin make this toner the ideal barrier replenishment for sensitive skin)
3) Exfoliant: Paula's Choice CLEAR Extra Strength Exfoliating Solution with 2% BHA (a typical exfoliant with an atypical delivery mechanism for deeper but still gentle penetration, and a product that should be a staple of everyone's nightly skincare routine; Salicylic Acid is the superstar ingredient here, and the answer to everything from blackheads to enlarged pores to redness)
4) Serum: Stratia Rewind (a fantastically spreadable, cosmetically appealing serum that is advertised as an essence for subsequent moisturizers but is itself a powerfully moisturizing and anti-aging solution; Niacinamide and DMAE are perfect for post-exfoliant pore love, and the Centella Asiatica Extract is great for improving the appearance of acne scarring)
4) Moisturizer: The Ordinary Buffet (a cutting-edge formulation that packs the same anti-aging ingredients in my morning serum bar Vitamin C, but in a richer but not uncomfortably thick texture that just quenches skin like no other moisturizer I've ever used)
NOTES OF DIFFERING CONSEQUENCE AND IDENTICAL STREAM OF CONSCIOUSNESS
1) A facial moisture mist like the NuSkin NaPCA Moisture Mist is, for skin care done quick and cheap, the undisputed champion of value and efficiency. Its combination of Niacimaide, Sodium PCA, Hyaluronic Acid, and Aloe Vera make it a potent moisturizer unto itself, and on lazy evenings, is just enough post-cleansing skin care to not feel guilty. But it's also great to set powder with, and restores a natural dewy look if you've happened to over-apply powder. Any flaking or dryness during the day if you're on Retin-A? Just a little spritz and gone. I use it on my entire body, keep an extra bottle in my car, and would basically bathe in the stuff if I could.
2) 2-3 times a week, I use Tretinoin 0.1% as an anti-aging booster. It's easy to get without a prescription from places like Indonesia where it can be purchased OTC, but any retinoid should not be taken lightly.
3) Once a week, I use AHA for added exfoliation. The Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 8% AHA Gel Exfoliant that I use has a lighter texture than the one I've typically recommended, and is great for high-humidity environments and times of the year, but the other one is still totally fine (that dollar per ounce!).
4) For a more legitimately shine-free experience, the Paula's Choice CLEAR Ultra-Light Daily Hydrating Fluid SPF 30 is a fantastic chemical (non-physical/mineral) sunscreen, but make sure to apply it 15 minutes before sun exposure
5) If you wear water-resistant sunscreen actives or heavy makeup (particularly water-resistant products around the eye area), cleansing with a water-based gel cleanser like the CeraVe should come after an oil cleanse with a dedicated cleansing oil like the Kose Softymo Cleansing Oil or (my personal preference) a bottle of cold-pressed Rosehip Seed or Kukui Oil from your local drug store.
6) Few oral supplements will help your skin. I'm personally not a fan of supplements in general. But in my experience, a combination of 1000mg Vitamin C and 500mg Glutathione daily is an incredibly effective (and safe!) skin brightening solution. Been doing it for years.
Hope this helps someone!
Tabris' Asian beauty routine, a powerful toning/firming regimen: with pictures
recommended skin care items to start with:
Oil Cleanser
Gel Cleanser
Moisturizer
Sunscreen
Then once you've gotten that under control, change it to following:
Oil Cleanser
Gel Cleanser
Toner
Essence
Exfoliator
Sheet Mask / Serum
Moisturizer
Sunscreen
And the most popular AsianBeauty options for those are as follows, almost all of them on the cheaper end:
Oil Cleanser: Banila Co Clean It Zero
Gel Cleanser: Corsx Low Ph Good Morning Cleanser
Toner: Corsx One Step Original Clear Pad, change to another toner if you don't have issues w/ sensitive skin.
Exfoliator: Corsx AHA Whitehead Power Liquid and Corsx BHA Blackhead Power Liquid. Use them once every couple of days alternating between the two. You don't want to over exfoliate
Essence: Missha First Treatment Essence
Sheet Mask / Serum: So many different options but some recommended brands on cheaper end are MediHeal, Tony Molly, Tosowoong, Kose - Pick up some according to your skin concerns.
Moisturizer: Missha Near Skin Repairing Snail Cream
Sunscreen: Biore UV Aqua SPF50+++
And the other large key, introduce 1 item at a time in the 2nd regime - so start with Oil Cleanser, Gel Cleanser, Moisturizer, and Sunscreen. Confirm no bad reaction on the skin, then repeat this for each item above. Otherwise if you do have a bad reaction it's hard to track down the one that's causing it.
After you get this down, then you can start doing Ampules.
Pet's exfoliating, resurfacing regimen
Mornings:
1. Rinse off with warm water.
2. Toner for a quick rinse (either sk 2 FTE or beauty water)
2. Apply Melano CC (vitamin c)
3. Apply Shark sauce (niacinamide, sea Kelp bioferment, 1% hyaluronic acid & more goodies!)
4. Apply moisturizer (benton steam cream or dr jart ceramide cream or grown alchemist white tea pepto cream)
5. Apply sunscreen (skin aqua super moisture milkm alcohol free!)
Evenings:
1. Wash (Tosowoong cleaner)
2. Retinol (using FAB but probably switching to Differin if patch test doesn't break me out)
3. Shark sauce (see above)
4. Missha ampoule
5. Corsx snail serum
6. Moisturizer (see above)
7. Sleeping mask if I REALLY need it (corsx honey or laniege)
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