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Deleted member 2563

User-requested account closure
Member
Oct 25, 2017
499
Is it normal for your PC to make a clicking noise when turned on/off/from sleep mode? RGB lights up briefly for a second as well. I assume it's my PSU fan after reading online. Had a MicroCenter PowerSpec 750 blow up and trip my circuit breaker. Replaced with a Seasonic 750 and no problems so far, but just being cautious. FWIW I've noticed this behavior with both PSUs
 

GFP_RYU

Banned
Oct 27, 2017
2,257
If you're going this all out, get an EK AIO cooler, either directly from EK Waterblocks or from Amazon. It'll need to be bigger than a 120mm for such a beast of a CPU too, luckily that Antec Torque case will support a 360mm AIO. Alternatives to that would be the Lian Li Galahad, the Arctic Liquid Freezer II, and the NZXT Kraken. Those are the four best performing AIOs on the market right now.

Also, I don't see any 4x8GB RAM kits on Thermaltake's site, if you're planning to buy 2 16GB kits and put them together, not a great idea. They might not run at that rated speed, and you won't have the luxury of just enabling XMP/DOCP for automatic RAM tuning, you'd have to tune an unmatched set of RAM sticks manually, which is not fun. IMO you should look up G.Skill's offerings, find out which of their kits that supports the Dark Hero is in your price range. If you want RGB, their Trident Z Neo line is what you will want to check out. The lower the numbers in the timings, the better the RAM is.

EDIT: also, everything brain_stew said about XMP and infinity fabric aka FCLK

No worries . I can return these items. Can you give me the correct alternatives for:

RAM

AIO Cooler
 

GFP_RYU

Banned
Oct 27, 2017
2,257
Don't run your memory at XMP settings. It will drop your infinity fabric down to 2:1 mode and degrade performance.

You may want to set XMP then dial back the memory speed to 3600mhz for first boot. You can then set infinity fabric to 1:1 mode and gradually work on upping your memory speed from there. Don't expect it to be straightforward to get to 4000mhz, complete plenty stability testing along the way and be prepared for your infinity fabric to cap out at 1900mhz (so 3800mhz memory speed).

At that point you may have some headroom left on your memory so you should look at tuning timings.

If you're not prepared for hours of stability testing and tuning then if you have the option to switch out the memory for cheap 3600mhzCL16 then it's worth considering. There's only a benefit (an incredibly small one) to faster rated XMP speeds on a Ryzen build if you're prepared to manually tune. Even then, you're far better off shopping for specific memory ICs than just some generic XMP speeds.

If you've bought the parts already then fair enough but a 120mm AIO from Thermaltake seems a strange pairing. On the lower end something like a 240mm Liquid Freezer ii would be the low end of what I'd expect in that setup.

I am gonna return the parts. Let me know the best alternative for the RAM and AIO cooler.
 

PhantomFFR

Member
Oct 25, 2017
1,300
Vienna, Austria, EU, Earth
Is it normal for your PC to make a clicking noise when turned on/off/from sleep mode? RGB lights up briefly for a second as well. I assume it's my PSU fan after reading online. Had a MicroCenter PowerSpec 750 blow up and trip my circuit breaker. Replaced with a Seasonic 750 and no problems so far, but just being cautious. FWIW I've noticed this behavior with both PSUs

One Click when pushing the power button is perfectly normal. I believe it's the relay in the PSU that makes the noise. (German wikipedia has the according info: "Noise development when switching")
 
Oct 29, 2017
13,546
Doing a new build and I whipped this up: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/3BwKMv

Should I change anything?
You could save some by going for a 10850K instead of a 10900K. Which is a 10900K with 100Mhz lower clocks out of the box, but in practice that's the same performance especially if you OC it.

Edit: I assume that you found the PSU in stock at MSRP and not paying $229 for it right? (that's mote than what their Platinum HXi 850W costs). If not you can still get the 2018 model for a closer price to its MSRP if you want Corsair. I don't know what's the difference between the two models, but I can't imagine is that much.
 
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Deleted member 17184

User-requested account closure
Banned
Oct 27, 2017
5,240
Alright, so I need some advice from you folks. I have a 1080 Ti Founders Edition and an i7 6700k. I have a Noctua DH-14 cooling all of that, but while playing demanding games, my PC gets really hot. Like, I have to turn on my AC with the fan at max otherwise the room gets super hot. I'm planning a big upgrade at some point (maybe not even be this year because of the pandemic), but I'm not sure if this is a problem of the cooler not being strong enough in my environment (my town has an average temperature of 30°C) or that my GPU or CPU just get that hot. I'm not just worried about my PC, but it's also super uncomfortable to play games at that temperature.

Should I plan for a water cooler instead? If so, I don't know anything about them. What models and/or brands should I be looking for? To give you an idea of the upgrade I'm looking for, if I bought things today it would be a Ryzen 3700X and a 3080. If something better releases by the time I can upgrade, it will be that.
 

GFP_RYU

Banned
Oct 27, 2017
2,257
Correction. My AIO is Thermaltake Water 3.0 ARGB Motherboard 360mm. I can replace this if needed for my Antec Torque. Let me know
 

super-famicom

Avenger
Oct 26, 2017
25,253
Alright, so I need some advice from you folks. I have a 1080 Ti Founders Edition and an i7 6700k. I have a Noctua DH-14 cooling all of that, but while playing demanding games, my PC gets really hot. Like, I have to turn on my AC with the fan at max otherwise the room gets super hot. I'm planning a big upgrade at some point (maybe not even be this year because of the pandemic), but I'm not sure if this is a problem of the cooler not being strong enough in my environment (my town has an average temperature of 30°C) or that my GPU or CPU just get that hot. I'm not just worried about my PC, but it's also super uncomfortable to play games at that temperature.

Should I plan for a water cooler instead? If so, I don't know anything about them. What models and/or brands should I be looking for? To give you an idea of the upgrade I'm looking for, if I bought things today it would be a Ryzen 3700X and a 3080. If something better releases by the time I can upgrade, it will be that.

What is your build (case, fans) and what temperatures are you getting for your CPU and GPU at idle and at load? You can always undervolt your 1080; you'll lose a tiny bit in performance (like under 5%) but also drop anywhere from 5-10C on load. Also, when is the last time you dusted your case out?

Where I live in California, during the summer it gets to be maybe 30-33C in the room my PC is in. I undervolted my GPU and just had a table fan pointed towards me when I was using my PC.
 

Deleted member 17184

User-requested account closure
Banned
Oct 27, 2017
5,240
What is your build (case, fans) and what temperatures are you getting for your CPU and GPU at idle and at load? You can always undervolt your 1080; you'll lose a tiny bit in performance (like under 5%) but also drop anywhere from 5-10C on load. Also, when is the last time you dusted your case out?

Where I live in California, during the summer it gets to be maybe 30-33C in the room my PC is in. I undervolted my GPU and just had a table fan pointed towards me when I was using my PC.
This is my case, except it doesn't have the air holes on the side. I loaded The Medium and the GPU stabilized at 84°C. At idle it's around 45°C.
 
Oct 29, 2017
13,546
Alright, so I need some advice from you folks. I have a 1080 Ti Founders Edition and an i7 6700k. I have a Noctua DH-14 cooling all of that, but while playing demanding games, my PC gets really hot. Like, I have to turn on my AC with the fan at max otherwise the room gets super hot. I'm planning a big upgrade at some point (maybe not even be this year because of the pandemic), but I'm not sure if this is a problem of the cooler not being strong enough in my environment (my town has an average temperature of 30°C) or that my GPU or CPU just get that hot. I'm not just worried about my PC, but it's also super uncomfortable to play games at that temperature.

Should I plan for a water cooler instead? If so, I don't know anything about them. What models and/or brands should I be looking for? To give you an idea of the upgrade I'm looking for, if I bought things today it would be a Ryzen 3700X and a 3080. If something better releases by the time I can upgrade, it will be that.
80C+ is normal for a blower style card like 10 series FE. I suspect that the 1080ti FE is the one mainly heating the room since it dumps all the hot air directly out the back (the positive to that being that avoids affecting your CPU cooling), but even if you get a big 3080 with 3 fans that air is better to have it out of your case than in.

There are a few 3080 cards cooled by 240mm AIO cooler, but not only they are more expensive, they are not all out and will be even harder to get than regular models. (EVGA Hybrid, MSI Seahawk, Gigabyte Waterforce). Doing a custom loop is even more expensive, but parts may be easier to find since there are water blocks compatible with various 3080 models. But I wouldn't recommend doing an ambitious and really expensive custom loop if you never done anything like that.

That said, the purpose of any cooler is to dump the heat out of the case and that will still go into your room as the fans cool them even if the radiators soak part of that heat. Anything is an improvement over a blower cooler though.
 

Deleted member 17184

User-requested account closure
Banned
Oct 27, 2017
5,240
Without mesh on the side panel, you're probably not getting enough airflow. How many case fans do you have and what is the setup?
One in the back, one at the top, and another one in the front. There's another one at the top that isn't working because there's no port to connect it.
80C+ is normal for a blower style card like 10 series FE. I suspect that the 1080ti FE is the one mainly heating the room since it dumps all the hot air directly out the back (the positive to that being that avoids affecting your CPU cooling), but even if you get a big 3080 with 3 fans that air is better to have it out of your case than in.

There are a few 3080 cards cooled by 240mm AIO cooler, but not only they are more expensive, they are not all out and will be even harder to get than regular models. (EVGA Hybrid, MSI Seahawk, Gigabyte Waterforce). Doing a custom loop is even more expensive, but parts may be easier to find since there are water blocks compatible with various 3080 models. But I wouldn't recommend doing an ambitious and really expensive custom loop if you never done anything like that.

That said, the purpose of any cooler is to dump the heat out of the case and that will still go into your room as the fans cool them even if the radiators soak part of that heat. Anything is an improvement over a blower cooler though.
I'm moving soon to a place where there will be more space (and more room for overall airflow), but what would be the best solutions to look for? I know I'll also have to change my case because it's not compatible with newer motherboards.
 

Serpens007

Well, Tosca isn't for everyone
Moderator
Oct 31, 2017
8,133
Chile
Undervolted the Ryzen 5 3600, went from 1.4v to 1.128v, reduced 10°C the temps while playing Battlefield V (from 90°C to 80°C tops) with no noticeable performance loss. I'll get a better cooler anyways, but at least this helps a lot.
 
Oct 29, 2017
13,546
One in the back, one at the top, and another one in the front. There's another one at the top that isn't working because there's no port to connect it.

I'm moving soon to a place where there will be more space (and more room for overall airflow), but what would be the best solutions to look for? I know I'll also have to change my case because it's not compatible with newer motherboards.
If you want to leave the option open to overkill it, I would say get a case that has room for two exhaust radiators, one on top and one on the side (for example the Lian Li 011 cases, various Thermaltake cases , Corsair 5000D) That way you have intake from the front of the case or and/or the bottom and the possibility to have AIOs on both your CPU and GPU without obstructing airflow on the front of the case with a radiator.
 

Tortillo VI

Member
May 27, 2018
1,954
Undervolted the Ryzen 5 3600, went from 1.4v to 1.128v, reduced 10°C the temps while playing Battlefield V (from 90°C to 80°C tops) with no noticeable performance loss. I'll get a better cooler anyways, but at least this helps a lot.
How did you achieve it? Lowered the Vcore? Interested in the settings you used.

I'm trying to undervolt a 5900x on my Asus mobo but, despite being stable in cinebench, certain games crash after a few minutes of gameplay with low voltages.
 

Deleted member 17184

User-requested account closure
Banned
Oct 27, 2017
5,240
If you want to leave the option open to overkill it, I would say get a case that has room for two exhaust radiators, one on top and one on the side (for example the Lian Li 011 cases, various Thermaltake cases , Corsair 5000D) That way you have intake from the front of the case or and/or the bottom and the possibility to have AIOs on both your CPU and GPU without obstructing airflow on the front of the case with a radiator.
Thanks! I'll check again when it's time. But I can get an idea already.
 

Ballpoint Ren

Avenger
Oct 25, 2017
1,425
Canada
I'm looking to upgrade my 6 year old PC. By some miracle I managed to buy a RTX 3070, so I'm looking to upgrade my computer so that it can handle current games and graphics. I'm not looking to do 4k 120FPS gaming (I'm happy with just a consistent frame rate), but I want to make sure that I don't have to worry about upgrading for a while.

Currently this is what I'm running right now: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/BggHQD

I know that I'll more than likely need a new power supply, but any advice or reccommendations would be appreciated!
 

ABeezy1388

Member
Apr 5, 2018
680
oh hey Beezy, what happened with your reddit GPU sale? All good or did the weird dude send it back?

Still friggin on going lol... so back and forth for days trying to help but he insists that the card is dead. "Computer company he called even said the guy probably scammed you and sold you a bricked card". Which is some bs, I told him they'd never say that for one and two not over the phone. He just seems a bit...off? So there was just a lot of back and forth, but it was nice and civil. But he isn't upset with me and is 100% convinced something happened and assumes in transit then. So I gave him a PDF of my receipt and he said he's going to RMA it with EVGA, he said he mailed it out on Thursday and should hopefully have a replacement next week. So as of now its a waiting game. I told him to keep me posted.
 

catpurrcat

Member
Oct 27, 2017
7,801
Still friggin on going lol... so back and forth for days trying to help but he insists that the card is dead. "Computer company he called even said the guy probably scammed you and sold you a bricked card". Which is some bs, I told him they'd never say that for one and two not over the phone. He just seems a bit...off? So there was just a lot of back and forth, but it was nice and civil. But he isn't upset with me and is 100% convinced something happened and assumes in transit then. So I gave him a PDF of my receipt and he said he's going to RMA it with EVGA, he said he mailed it out on Thursday and should hopefully have a replacement next week. So as of now its a waiting game. I told him to keep me posted.

Good outcome, albeit a weird person for sure. If EVGA accepted the RMA request after some basic troubleshooting then that's cool. Chances are given how weird he is, he didn't mail out anything, card works fine, and is slowly coming around to accepting the card after realizing he can't gently push you back. Lol why can't people behave. That "computer store" story is laughable, eh ?
 

NeroPaige

Member
Jan 8, 2018
1,710
Sounds strange, if it's not a outright scammer looking to return a fugazy and keep the original hoping paypal believes the buyer, it could really be buyers remorse and doesn't want it anymore and just wants an excuse to return it. Does ebay/paypal refund the sellers final sale fees (or any other fees) for returns?
 

MatrixMan.exe

Member
Oct 25, 2017
9,501
Huh, just swapped in my new 3070 and a new SFX PSU and my PC keeps turning itself off shortly after boot up.

edit: Fixed!
 
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Oct 29, 2017
13,546
I'm looking to upgrade my 6 year old PC. By some miracle I managed to buy a RTX 3070, so I'm looking to upgrade my computer so that it can handle current games and graphics. I'm not looking to do 4k 120FPS gaming (I'm happy with just a consistent frame rate), but I want to make sure that I don't have to worry about upgrading for a while.

Currently this is what I'm running right now: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/BggHQD

I know that I'll more than likely need a new power supply, but any advice or reccommendations would be appreciated!
Assuming you are not upgrading in another 5-6 years, I say go for something with 8 cores or more. Ryzen 7 5800X is the new hotness, but that can take a while to find on stock, so if you want an upgrade without having to wait go for a Core i9 10850K.

PSU I recommend Fractal Design Ion+ line. But the Corsair RMx line is also a safe bet.
 

Ballpoint Ren

Avenger
Oct 25, 2017
1,425
Canada
Assuming you are not upgrading in another 5-6 years, I say go for something with 8 cores or more. Ryzen 7 5800X is the new hotness, but that can take a while to find on stock, so if you want an upgrade without having to wait go for a Core i9 10850K.

PSU I recommend Fractal Design Ion+ line. But the Corsair RMx line is also a safe bet.
I'll probably stick with the intel CPU, getting the 3070 was hard enough as it was lol. I'll probably need to add a new CPU cooler, or at least get more thermal paste, on top of that I'm assuming?

Thank you for those PSU recommendations as well, should I be aiming for the 850 watts?
I had someone on r/pcmasterrace say that the 3070 has " very high peak transient loads, " so I don't want to fuck around and not have enough wattage.
 
Oct 29, 2017
13,546
I'll probably stick with the intel CPU, getting the 3070 was hard enough as it was lol. I'll probably need to add a new CPU cooler, or at least get more thermal paste, on top of that I'm assuming?

Thank you for those PSU recommendations as well, should I be aiming for the 850 watts?
I had someone on r/pcmasterrace say that the 3070 has " very high peak transient loads, " so I don't want to fuck around and not have enough wattage.
Yeah, I recommend you get a new cooler at least a beefy one on the weight class of the NH-D15 and Dark Rock Pro 4 for the i9, or a AIO of at least 240mm. Since top of the line Air coolers are $90 they aren't actually cheaper than AIO coolers that don't have RGB like the "Basic" line from EKWB or the Artic liquid freezer.

There are also some new Intel CPUs coming in March, going for the 11700K instead of the 10850K could be better bang for the buck (but you get two fewer cores), but the new Z590 mobos are more expensive all around, and who knows how availability is going to be. Unless you would prefer to have pcie 4.0 for the latest nvme ssds, sticking to Z490 and 10 series may be the only way to avoid part shortages.

If you go for the i9, then 850W wouldn't hurt. In most circumstances even with the 3070 peaking up to 300W a 750W PSU should be enough, but the i9s are also power hungry chips, so if you wanted to overclock the 10850K, 850W provides you headroom to avoid triggering over current protections.
 

Ballpoint Ren

Avenger
Oct 25, 2017
1,425
Canada
Yeah, I recommend you get a new cooler at least a beefy one on the weight class of the NH-D15 and Dark Rock Pro 4 for the i9, or a AIO of at least 240mm. Since top of the line Air coolers are $90 they aren't actually cheaper than AIO coolers that don't have RGB like the "Basic" line from EKWB or the Artic liquid freezer.

There are also some new Intel CPUs coming in March, going for the 11700K instead of the 10850K could be better bang for the buck (but you get two fewer cores), but the new Z590 mobos are more expensive all around, and who knows how availability is going to be. Unless you would prefer to have pcie 4.0 for the latest nvme ssds, sticking to Z490 and 10 series may be the only way to avoid part shortages.

If you go for the i9, then 850W wouldn't hurt. In most circumstances even with the 3070 peaking up to 300W a 750W PSU should be enough, but the i9s are also power hungry chips, so if you wanted to overclock the 10850K, 850W provides you headroom to avoid triggering over current protections.

Thank you for all the info! I definitely have a better idea of what I'll be doing now
 

Stacey

Banned
Feb 8, 2020
4,610
I've just impulse bought a sapphire 6800 pulse.

Will a 750w seasonic focus gold + psu be sufficient with a 3900x and 32gb of drr4?

Thanks
 
Oct 25, 2017
6,086
What's the cheap way of getting a Windows 10 Key?
If you are a college student or work for a big enough company (especially one that is computer based or works in MS Office), Microsoft offers ways to get a key for free.

Otherwise, PlayAsia sells keys for $20 ($25 for Pro). Can personally vouch for them, had a key that worked perfectly fine for 4.5 years before I updated my CPU/mobo, then I just used a Dreamspark key from college.
 

Anton Sugar

Banned
Oct 27, 2017
3,946
Could a bad CPU prevent my PC from booting up, full stop?

I bought a 3900X over Black Friday but have been working a job dependent on my computer for editing, so I've been hesitant to install it.

I did try to install it over the Christmas break, but that's where I had my first problem. After installing in my Gigabyte motherboard, my tower turned on but I had no video signal.

Rebooted a few times, tried to reseat the CPU, but same thing. Put my old CPU back in, computer boots up fine.

I'm getting near the end of my return window for the new CPU, so I tried again today, this time after updating my BIOS, which apparently had a required update for this CPU series to be used. I figured that was the problem, got my BIOS up to date, installed the 3900X, and now it won't turn on, at all. It maybe sounds like something is powering on or trying to, but no lights or anything.

Reinstalled my old CPU and it's back on fine.

Disappointed but getting a replacement.
 
Last edited:

catpurrcat

Member
Oct 27, 2017
7,801
Could a bad CPU prevent my PC from booting up, full stop?

I bought a 3900X over Black Friday but have been working a job dependent on my computer for editing, so I've been hesitant to install it.

I did try to install it over the Christmas break, but that's where I had my first problem. After installing in my Gigabyte motherboard, my tower turned on but I had no video signal.

Rebooted a few times, tried to reseat the CPU, but same thing. Put my old CPU back in, computer boots up fine.

I'm getting near the end of my return window for the new CPU, so I tried again today, this time after updating my BIOS, which apparently had a required update for this CPU series to be used. I figured that was the problem, got my BIOS up to date, instead the 3900X, and now it won't turn on, at all. It maybe sounds like something is powering on or trying to, but no lights or anything.

Reinstalled my old CPU and it's back on fine.

Disappointed but getting a replacement.

assuming you're an experienced pc builder already, it does sound like a bad CPU. It happens.

Ryzen 2000 to 3000 upgrade is a pretty common one and issues anecdotally are rare. So it does sound like a defective CPU.

Sorry dude :(
 

the_bromo_tachi

The Fallen
Oct 25, 2017
1,373
Japan
I've just impulse bought a sapphire 6800 pulse.

Will a 750w seasonic focus gold + psu be sufficient with a 3900x and 32gb of drr4?

Thanks
I had the same psu and bought a 6800xt nitro last month. The psu had some coil whine when I was playing a game. I upgraded to a seasonic 1000+ platinum psu, the coil whine was gone. But if coil whine doesn't bother you, it should be more than enough.
 

Drksage

Member
Oct 30, 2017
1,278
Question about SP fans vs. AF fans and airflow regarding my case: coolermaster H500P mesh

so first a quick description:

the front of my case is a huge mesh with a dust filter, front fans are the stock 200mm fans (intake), top is a x73 radiator (outtake), and back is a 120mm stock fan.

Okay so now... I know SP fans are good for pushing air trough tight spaces, that's why they're the default for radiators, but the thing is, will it be optimal if a put 3 120mm/140mm SP fans in the front, since they would be pulling instead of pushing air trough the mesh/filter?
 

SmartWaffles

Member
Nov 15, 2017
6,250
Could a bad CPU prevent my PC from booting up, full stop?

I bought a 3900X over Black Friday but have been working a job dependent on my computer for editing, so I've been hesitant to install it.

I did try to install it over the Christmas break, but that's where I had my first problem. After installing in my Gigabyte motherboard, my tower turned on but I had no video signal.

Rebooted a few times, tried to reseat the CPU, but same thing. Put my old CPU back in, computer boots up fine.

I'm getting near the end of my return window for the new CPU, so I tried again today, this time after updating my BIOS, which apparently had a required update for this CPU series to be used. I figured that was the problem, got my BIOS up to date, installed the 3900X, and now it won't turn on, at all. It maybe sounds like something is powering on or trying to, but no lights or anything.

Reinstalled my old CPU and it's back on fine.

Disappointed but getting a replacement.
What motherboard do you have? If it's an older 300 series boards it might have issue as Zen 2 support on 300 series chipset isn't even official.
 

brain_stew

Member
Oct 30, 2017
4,736
I'm looking to upgrade my 6 year old PC. By some miracle I managed to buy a RTX 3070, so I'm looking to upgrade my computer so that it can handle current games and graphics. I'm not looking to do 4k 120FPS gaming (I'm happy with just a consistent frame rate), but I want to make sure that I don't have to worry about upgrading for a while.

Currently this is what I'm running right now: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/BggHQD

I know that I'll more than likely need a new power supply, but any advice or reccommendations would be appreciated!

Looking up your PSU and it can deliver nearly the entire 700w on the 12v rail, it'll be fine. No reason to create extra e-waste for no tangible benefit.

For reference I'm running a 3070 on a 5 year old 550w PSU without issue. Admittedly the 10850k is a lot more demanding than my 3700x but not 150w more.

Over inflating PSU requirements is practically an internet meme at this point. The 3070 is only a 220w card and your CPU isn't going to draw 500w...
 

ilgrigios

Member
Nov 5, 2017
20
Are the super fast, PCE4.0 SSDs kind of unnecessary for gaming at this moment?
I was planning on getting 2TB of fast storage for a new build, but since benchmarks seem to indicate there would be hardly any difference from a PCE4.0 and a PC3.0 drive (or even a SATA one), dropping 400€ on a Sabrent Rocket 4 right now seems like a monumental waste of money.

Would it make sense to get a decent 1TB PCE3.0 SSD instead, and perhaps getting an additional PCE4.0 SSD "when the time comes" ?
 

brain_stew

Member
Oct 30, 2017
4,736
Are the super fast, PCE4.0 SSDs kind of unnecessary for gaming at this moment?
I was planning on getting 2TB of fast storage for a new build, but since benchmarks seem to indicate there would be hardly any difference from a PCE4.0 and a PC3.0 drive (or even a SATA one), dropping 400€ on a Sabrent Rocket 4 right now seems like a monumental waste of money.

Would it make sense to get a decent 1TB PCE3.0 SSD instead, and perhaps getting an additional PCE4.0 SSD "when the time comes" ?

Once you're on an SSD of some kind, the biggest differences in loading times for games currently come from a faster CPU. Hardware Unboxed did a great video on this:

youtu.be

Best SSD for Gaming: PCIe 4.0 vs 3.0 vs SATA vs HDD Load Time Battle

Join us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/hardwareunboxedStorage Devices Used:Samsung 870 QVO - https://amzn.to/3lwzzjHSabrent Rocket Q - https://amzn.to/3...

I'd still recommend an NVME drive for your boot drive because there's not much of a price premium but a PCIe 4.0 drive is a complete waste for a gaming focused build.

I'm not convinced it will ever become a requirement for gaming during this console generation either. The Series S/X SSD is only 2.4GB/s and even low end PCIe 3.0 drives are nearly 50% faster than that.

So, yes, get the cheaper 3.0 drive and put the savings into a component that will actually deliver a tangible benefit.
 

ilgrigios

Member
Nov 5, 2017
20
So, yes, get the cheaper 3.0 drive and put the savings into a component that will actually deliver a tangible benefit.
I'll do that, thanks.

I guess the idea was "future proofing", after listening to the PS5 SSD hype and the news about Direct Storage and RTX IO coming in the future. But I'll still have an M.2 slot available when (if) there's ever gonna be a reson to upgrade... so PCIe 3.0 it is, then.
 

brain_stew

Member
Oct 30, 2017
4,736
I'll do that, thanks.

I guess the idea was "future proofing", after listening to the PS5 SSD hype and the news about Direct Storage and RTX IO coming in the future. But I'll still have an M.2 slot available when (if) there's ever gonna be a reson to upgrade... so PCIe 3.0 it is, then.

This forum (and much of the internet) collectively lost their minds following the PS5 reveal when it comes to SSDs. The point where having an SSD faster than 3.5GB/s becomes a requirement to run games is probably a decade away.

We're still not at the point where games are taking advantage of SATA SSDs.
 

gully state

Member
Oct 27, 2017
1,990
The whole PS5 SSDs transfer speed mania on era was similar to all Sony fanboys hyping GDDR5 as this game changer for the PS4. I'd imagine there'll be a handful of exclusives that take advantage of it best case scenario.
 

Serpens007

Well, Tosca isn't for everyone
Moderator
Oct 31, 2017
8,133
Chile
How did you achieve it? Lowered the Vcore? Interested in the settings you used.

I'm trying to undervolt a 5900x on my Asus mobo but, despite being stable in cinebench, certain games crash after a few minutes of gameplay with low voltages.

I used the Clockturner actually. Takes a bit of time, but I felt it was safer than me following a guide and potentially screwing something lol



It actually works. Clockturner do some testing to determine what settings are recomended for your specific build, and you can save the profile to load when you turn on the PC. YMMV, in my case I gotta manually load the profile, but it's a couple of clicks so I don't mind.
 
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Anton Sugar

Banned
Oct 27, 2017
3,946
assuming you're an experienced pc builder already, it does sound like a bad CPU. It happens.

Ryzen 2000 to 3000 upgrade is a pretty common one and issues anecdotally are rare. So it does sound like a defective CPU.

Sorry dude :(
Fairly experienced--used to build all my own systems but got a Black Friday deal on this Cyberpower machine maybe 2 years ago. Currently has a Ryzen 2700.

Well, I'm just glad it wasn't the mobo or that I damaged something. Been a while since I installed a CPU.

What motherboard do you have? If it's an older 300 series boards it might have issue as Zen 2 support on 300 series chipset isn't even official.

Gigabyte AX-370M-DS3H
 

catpurrcat

Member
Oct 27, 2017
7,801
The whole PS5 SSDs transfer speed mania on era was similar to all Sony fanboys hyping GDDR5 as this game changer for the PS4. I'd imagine there'll be a handful of exclusives that take advantage of it best case scenario.

Lol agreed. Some of the discourse is downright embarrassing, fanboys everywhere. It'll make for some nice exclusives but other than that, I doubt we'll see third parties optimize gameplay for anything more than a SATA SSD for the next 3 years.
 

catpurrcat

Member
Oct 27, 2017
7,801
Are the super fast, PCE4.0 SSDs kind of unnecessary for gaming at this moment?
I was planning on getting 2TB of fast storage for a new build, but since benchmarks seem to indicate there would be hardly any difference from a PCE4.0 and a PC3.0 drive (or even a SATA one), dropping 400€ on a Sabrent Rocket 4 right now seems like a monumental waste of money.

Would it make sense to get a decent 1TB PCE3.0 SSD instead, and perhaps getting an additional PCE4.0 SSD "when the time comes" ?

having gone through that logic myself, I think getting the best value at PCIE 3.0 is reasonable. I use a 4.0 drive a my windows/boot drive and it does run extremely well, but gaming wise I haven't seen a difference between my secondary 3.0 and the primary 4.0 drive.

even when NVME becomes more common, IMHO the microsoft directstorage api and baseline spec (series x) is probably what devs will build for.

Per Toms Hardware: "According to Microsoft, the custom SSD used in the upcoming Xbox Series X console generates well over 35,000 64 KB I/O requests per second to hit its peak sequential read speed of 2.4 GB/s."

I'm glad you posted that question here and not in one of the console threads. Console warring and fanboyism is at peak hyperbole right now. It's hard to have a reasonable discussion outside of this thread.
 

grosvenor92

Member
Dec 2, 2017
1,887
Hey Era I'm looking to upgrade my motherboard. Currently looking at these two. Anyone have experience with either ?
Was leaning more towards the Asus one as it is a little cheaper and my current one is an Asus and I've had no issue with it


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ASUS ROG STRIX B550-A GAMING AM4 ATX AMD Motherboard - Newegg.com

Buy ASUS ROG STRIX B550-A GAMING AM4 AMD B550 SATA 6Gb/s ATX AMD Motherboard with fast shipping and top-rated customer service. Once you know, you Newegg!

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GIGABYTE B550 AORUS PRO AC ATX Motherboard - Newegg.com

Buy GIGABYTE B550 AORUS PRO AC AM4 AMD B550 ATX Motherboard with Dual M.2, SATA 6Gb/s, USB 3.2 Gen 2, Intel 802.11ac, 2.5 GbE LAN, PCIe 4.0 with fast shipping and top-rated customer service. Once you know, you Newegg!
 
Oct 26, 2017
3,346
Have you checked the voltage is set as per specification? I've seen instances where setting XMP didn't set the required voltage for the memory speed by default. Even if it is, maybe try bumping it upto 1.4v, it shouldn't cause any real issues as long as there's some amount of airflow in your case.

It could be multiple things, unlikely to be your motherboard but could be your CPU memory controller or infinity fabric. Running anything above 3200mhz will overclock your memory controller and infinity fabric above stock speeds so it's never guaranteed.

You may have to increase some of your voltages above auto to get it running, add with any overclocking and manual tuning, it's often a matter of patience to diagnose what is holding you back.

Changing the RAM slots used may help, depending on your motherboard topology, running dual rank sticks in the "wrong" DIMM slots may hold you back.

Ryzen DRAM calculator would be a good place to start to get an idea of what settings you may want to adjust to dial things in.

You're definitely unlucky I'd say, but it's not unheard of.

Edit: Looking around it looks like that may be CL18 memory? Anything rated 3600mhzCL18 is going to be using garbage tier memory ICs (it's a really low tier speed bin) so while it should hit it's rated XMP speeds, it's perhaps not a surprise it doesn't, as the memory ICs it will be using are really low quality.

3600mhzCL16 is the sweet spot ATM. It prevents you from receiving the lowest quality memory ICs and you don't really pay much of a premium for it. 3200mhzCL16 and 3600mhzCL18 can be filled with any old junk, and that's why I always recommend avoiding them if you can.

As an update on this, I seemingly solved the issue by... ignoring XMP, changing the multiplier to 36 and changing nothing else.

tumblr_n90u98SqID1refhi9o6_250.gif


Thank you so much for the help! I really appreciated how in-depth this post was.