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fulltimepanda

Member
Oct 28, 2017
5,832
so this is annoying

idBZyfDl.png


(Waterblock on my 3080 strix in the NR200)

If you're looking at water cooling in the NR200, you'll want to get a block with a max height of <140mm. This bykski 3080/3090 strix block measures 159mm with other brands measuring around the same, mostly around 155mm (ek - 153mm, alpha - 152mm)

I really like the form factor of the NR200 so I'll probably swap the card down to a smaller one which is freaking annoying.
 

Jaded Alyx

Member
Oct 25, 2017
35,582
I'm very confused. I've seen numerous examples of people using the cooler master hyper 212 BE in the nr200 with the mesh side panel (it's even in official photos on the cooler master website) - claiming it's 155mm. But when I try, it doesn't fit, and the box says 158.8mm. really frustrating.
 

super-famicom

Avenger
Oct 26, 2017
25,324
I'm very confused. I've seen numerous examples of people using the cooler master hyper 212 BE in the nr200 with the mesh side panel (it's even in official photos on the cooler master website) - claiming it's 155mm. But when I try, it doesn't fit, and the box says 158.8mm. really frustrating.

I think you may need to remove the side bracket to get it to fit.
 

fulltimepanda

Member
Oct 28, 2017
5,832
Looking like I might just grab the O11 mini and shift into MFF for awhile. Been trying to find <20L cases that can support the width of the 3080 strix with a waterblock but 2x 240mm radiators at the same time has been a bit of a ride. There's some promising cases on the horizon but they all look awhile away (Chimera CX2, Diceflow).

I'm very confused. I've seen numerous examples of people using the cooler master hyper 212 BE in the nr200 with the mesh side panel (it's even in official photos on the cooler master website) - claiming it's 155mm. But when I try, it doesn't fit, and the box says 158.8mm. really frustrating.

Platform differences? I imagine the mounting solution between AMD/Intel could make up that 3-4mm
 

Brandino

Avenger
Jan 9, 2018
2,104
Is it just me, or is 11/8 tubing hard to find? I bought an eisbaer for my NR-200 cause it's expandable. Eventually I'll water cool my 3080 when it gets in. But to expand the thing out I need fittings and tubings that are 11/8. I keep seeing 13/8 and 10/8, occasionally 12/8. No 11/8 out there.
 

SiG

Member
Oct 25, 2017
6,485
I saw some news/rumors about a 3060Ti having basically an ITX form factor:
videocardz.com

EVGA, ZOTAC, Kuroutoshikou GeForce RTX 3060 Ti graphics cards leaked - VideoCardz.com

Custom NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060 Ti graphics cards NVIDIA will lift the embargo on its RTX 3060 Ti models on December 1st with the launch expected a day later. We are not yet sure if the dates refer to the Founders Edition or custom models as well, but judging from the past Ampere launches, that […]

I certainly hope it's within the $200-300 range considering 3070 is around $400.
 

FlexMentallo

The Fallen
Oct 29, 2017
1,010
Los Angeles
Got sick of waiting for new CPU and vidcard so I moved my current 3600/2070 build over to NCase M1, Asus B550-i motherboard, new PSU and extra 2.5" 2TB SSD. Had the usual hiccups with it not posting first time for reasons. Got it working eventually, usual process of trial and error. One of the RAM slots seems busted, which sucks, but I have a single 16gb stick of LPX Vengeance so its not a big deal unless I need to upgrade at some point.

Someday I will enter wondrous land of 5600x and 3080 ownership. Someday!
 

Polioliolio

Member
Nov 6, 2017
5,401
I see thank you, so the SN750, when it mentions improving game performance, is that only applicable if you have games stored on it, or does it just better serve the whole system, including for gaming when the OS is on it?

I'm a little out of the loop. If I wanted to buy a couple drives for a new NR200 build. Would this SN750 for OS and that WD Blue m.2 for storage be a good set up overall, or should i use NVMe for both? If it was just for OS, I probably wouldn't need the 1TB one right? The 250GB one should be plenty, or no? Or should I get one 250GB SN750 for OS, one 1TB SN750 for games, and say the WD Blue 3D NAND SATA 2TB for other storage?

edit:

Also, comparing the SN750 to the other one you posted, the ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro, they seemed to have comparable reviews with the SX8200 Pro being a lot cheaper for sure. Hm..
 

MadZero

Member
Oct 28, 2017
502
So I was planning to pair the ASUS ROG Strix x570-i with 5900x

However, I've seen Ali (Optimum Tech) mentions that mobo wasn't able to maintain the 5900x boost clock!

Is it an isolated issue with his specific mobo or perhaps something a BIOS will fix?

Can't seem to find any mention of these issues with a quick search....
 

SiG

Member
Oct 25, 2017
6,485
Any chance I'll be able to score a $200-300 ITX form factor card? That EVGA 3060TI looks about to be the right size that will fit in my rig, but maybe not my wallet.

I don't mind hunting down used 2060s either, but I'd rather buy new.
 
Oct 25, 2017
12,319
I saw some news/rumors about a 3060Ti having basically an ITX form factor:
videocardz.com

EVGA, ZOTAC, Kuroutoshikou GeForce RTX 3060 Ti graphics cards leaked - VideoCardz.com

Custom NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060 Ti graphics cards NVIDIA will lift the embargo on its RTX 3060 Ti models on December 1st with the launch expected a day later. We are not yet sure if the dates refer to the Founders Edition or custom models as well, but judging from the past Ampere launches, that […]

I certainly hope it's within the $200-300 range considering 3070 is around $400.
Any chance I'll be able to score a $200-300 ITX form factor card? That EVGA 3060TI looks about to be the right size that will fit in my rig, but maybe not my wallet.

I don't mind hunting down used 2060s either, but I'd rather buy new.
if you can, I'd say grab the 2060KO and sign up for the EVGA step-up program.

As it stands right now, word is that the 3060TI partner cards are going to be more expensive than anticipated thanks to NVIDIA:
 

SiG

Member
Oct 25, 2017
6,485
if you can, I'd say grab the 2060KO and sign up for the EVGA step-up program.

As it stands right now, word is that the 3060TI partner cards are going to be more expensive than anticipated thanks to NVIDIA:

That's...oof.

I might have to settle on a second-hand/used 2060Mini
 

dude

Member
Oct 25, 2017
4,702
Tel Aviv
So, I'll appreciate some help troubleshooting what's going with my SFF PC. I recently finished a Taku build, I got the 3070 and it was failing sometimes. so I figured it was faulty and sent it back to the shop to have it replaced. They said they ran tests on it and it was fine, so I took it back and decided to try and see how it is in my old PC - and it was working fine without failing once. So now I'm trying to figure out what's causing the failure in the new PC. I put my old 960 (the only other card I have on me right now) in there, and everything is working fine - using the same PSU cables (just to make sure) and anything else.
I don't think the 3070 was overheating, because it wasn't getting hot when it was crashing, and it was mostly failing in weaker games (Townscaper for example made it crash constantly, after a couple of minutes.) Could it be my PSU? I currently have a SF600 in there.
 

Polioliolio

Member
Nov 6, 2017
5,401
If 1TB will be enough space for me, is it important to have the OS on its own drive, or can everything just be on that one m.2 drive?

Also, starting to look at motherboards. For the NR200, what are the best motherboards people are using? I probably want to stay below 300 but could be convinced otherwise, maybe.
 

super-famicom

Avenger
Oct 26, 2017
25,324
If 1TB will be enough space for me, is it important to have the OS on its own drive, or can everything just be on that one m.2 drive?

Also, starting to look at motherboards. For the NR200, what are the best motherboards people are using? I probably want to stay below 300 but could be convinced otherwise, maybe.

I have a 1TB Sabrent Rocket 4.0 and that's currently the only drive in my PC right now. It works fine, but I want to get a 2TB SSD for extra storage.

As for mobos, I am using a MSI B550I Gaming Edge WiFi. It works well enough for me (I appreciate the optical out for my external DAC), but the Gigabyte Aorus B550I is supposed to have the best VRMs out of all the B550I boards. If you need more ports in rear I/O, then I guess you can look at X570 boards. I don't have much knowledge of those, however.

These videos might help:





 

Jetpaction

Member
Jun 2, 2019
417
The Netherlands
Put together an AMD themed NCase M1 this week, was one of the lucky ones to get an 6800XT from AMD. Put a Samsung 980 Pro SSD in as well, looking forward to DirectStorage some time next year.

The CPU cooler is a Scythe Big Shuriken 3 with an Arctic P120 fan on top. It's nice and silent and keeps my 3800X temperatures in check. Did order a 5600x but I'm on a long pre-order list so it'll take a while for it to arrive.

IbQuU7SLd9IEjCoTfQWIF6te.gif


4DjE6CPInIdhs2atyuPPOASe.gif
 
Oct 25, 2017
12,319
If 1TB will be enough space for me, is it important to have the OS on its own drive, or can everything just be on that one m.2 drive?

Also, starting to look at motherboards. For the NR200, what are the best motherboards people are using? I probably want to stay below 300 but could be convinced otherwise, maybe.
My board:
www.microcenter.com

Gigabyte B550I AORUS Pro AX AMD AM4 Mini-ITX Motherboard - Micro Center

Get it now! B550I AORUS PRO AX is a mini-ITX motherboard perfect for building a small form factor PC for people who demands higher performance but also cares about aesthetics. The compact yet powerful pc delivers amazing performance with the latest CPU, graphic card and blazing fast connectivity.
 
Oct 27, 2017
1,310
Also, starting to look at motherboards. For the NR200, what are the best motherboards people are using? I probably want to stay below 300 but could be convinced otherwise, maybe.

I've built 2 SFF PCs in the past year. First one is in a Sliger SM580 with a Gigabyte X570-I with a 3700X. Second one is in a Sliger Conswole with an Asus Strix X570-I and a 3600. They're both nice boards. Frankly, I only went with the X570 boards cause at the time I was building both PCs the B550 ones weren't available yet. I've always gone with Asus boards in my old PC builds but the Gigabyte board is pretty solid. Main downside between the 2 for me anyway is the number of USB ports- the Asus has a several more than the Gigabyte if that matters to you.

Can't speak to much to overclocking really on either as I haven't felt the need yet with either one.
 

Polioliolio

Member
Nov 6, 2017
5,401
Thanks guys.

Okay, now I'm stuck on ram. I jumped for the corasair vengeance, but it sounds like gskill tridentz is at least a hair better.

So, what's the difference between the regular RGB and the Neo?
And is there any real world difference in latency 16 and latency 18?
 

fulltimepanda

Member
Oct 28, 2017
5,832
Trying to find a case fulfills a specific want is sure damn interesting experience. Spotted the Mechanic Master C28 on the sffpc case spreadsheet, which seems to tick my boxes. Overall a bit less volume than the NR200 (17.9L vs. 18.2L), swapping length for extra height and what must be a more recessed mb tray (less cable management space behind) to allow for a touch more cooler height.

WcxPcsr.png

Render

Cge3k8z.png

actual unit with an air flow front.

Looks like there is room for a 2x 240mm rad while being able to support my 3080 strix with a waterblock. Mounting points for both ATX and SFX power supplies.

Best part is that it's a preorder and they're expecting the case to ship out in china on the 20th of dec lol. Pretty tempted to put money down for this, currently up at 799CNY + Shipping.
 

GeezyAF

Shinra Employee
Member
Oct 28, 2017
394
Trying to find a case fulfills a specific want is sure damn interesting experience. Spotted the Mechanic Master C28 on the sffpc case spreadsheet, which seems to tick my boxes. Overall a bit less volume than the NR200 (17.9L vs. 18.2L), swapping length for extra height and what must be a more recessed mb tray (less cable management space behind) to allow for a touch more cooler height.

WcxPcsr.png

Render

Cge3k8z.png

actual unit with an air flow front.

Looks like there is room for a 2x 240mm rad while being able to support my 3080 strix with a waterblock. Mounting points for both ATX and SFX power supplies.

Best part is that it's a preorder and they're expecting the case to ship out in china on the 20th of dec lol. Pretty tempted to put money down for this, currently up at 799CNY + Shipping.
What about the new Sliger S620?

S620 | Sliger

Sliger Designs is a manufacturing company based in the United States specializing in computer cases and systems.
 

fulltimepanda

Member
Oct 28, 2017
5,832
What about the new Sliger S620?

S620 | Sliger

Sliger Designs is a manufacturing company based in the United States specializing in computer cases and systems.

I thought these were single rad only but looks like you can slap another on with a side mount. Price is prohibitive to get it landed here in Aus unfortunately though, I'm looking at around $450-500AUD with shipping. Whereas with the mechanic master I'm looking in that $250-300 range (I'm guessing/hoping)
 

Polioliolio

Member
Nov 6, 2017
5,401
I've built 2 SFF PCs in the past year. First one is in a Sliger SM580 with a Gigabyte X570-I with a 3700X. Second one is in a Sliger Conswole with an Asus Strix X570-I and a 3600. They're both nice boards. Frankly, I only went with the X570 boards cause at the time I was building both PCs the B550 ones weren't available yet. I've always gone with Asus boards in my old PC builds but the Gigabyte board is pretty solid. Main downside between the 2 for me anyway is the number of USB ports- the Asus has a several more than the Gigabyte if that matters to you.

Can't speak to much to overclocking really on either as I haven't felt the need yet with either one.

I was looking at reviews on the strix. Someone said there's no 3.2 usb connector on the motherboard, so his case which has a 3.2 usb port on the front, is useless. Is this true?
 

Pancakes R Us

Member
Oct 27, 2017
8,377
Trying to find a case fulfills a specific want is sure damn interesting experience. Spotted the Mechanic Master C28 on the sffpc case spreadsheet, which seems to tick my boxes. Overall a bit less volume than the NR200 (17.9L vs. 18.2L), swapping length for extra height and what must be a more recessed mb tray (less cable management space behind) to allow for a touch more cooler height.

WcxPcsr.png

Render

Cge3k8z.png

actual unit with an air flow front.

Looks like there is room for a 2x 240mm rad while being able to support my 3080 strix with a waterblock. Mounting points for both ATX and SFX power supplies.

Best part is that it's a preorder and they're expecting the case to ship out in china on the 20th of dec lol. Pretty tempted to put money down for this, currently up at 799CNY + Shipping.
I really like the look of this.
 

disgraciau

Member
Oct 27, 2017
1,902
Ibiza, Balearic Islands, Spain
These babies have finally arrived:

img_20201130_125117vkjl9.jpg

My challenge is to put this big boy (a 3700x) with this cooler (with a Noctua slim fan installed):

img_20201130_131704fuj8p.jpg


inside this box:

a05.jpg



My motherboard ASRock Fatal1ty AB350 Gaming-ITX/ac is ready with its latest BIOS update and UEFI defaults. Tonight i'm going to install all this, yet somehow I'm afraid that this will backfire me somehow. Wish me luck.
 

HamSandwich

Banned
Oct 25, 2017
6,605
Oh awesome, my H1 could catch on fire. This would be the perfect time for NZXT to give us Gen4 riser cables.

That NR200 though is looking real tempting now.
 
Oct 25, 2017
682
Well, I've finished my first SFF build. Used the Cougar QBX, and ended up having to do some mods in order to get everything working as I wanted. Let's recount the tales of this build... All of the pictures are in this drive folder - https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1TsD6actdXi4Wi_GmT_w3r3LpytRC6FLg?usp=sharing

Parts List (replace the CPU with a 3600X for now) - https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/4LpjW3

This build spanned a few weeks due to waiting for parts. The practice was pretty good, and most of my initial choices were solid. I ended up having to pull everything apart a few times though because the Gigabyte B550i is a bit of an odd board.

My first steps were to pull the case apart and install the fans. This gave me a good chance to run the initial cables for the front panel and fans which I've always left for later and regretted it.

[Case Teardown]

[Initial routing]

Next was to install the mobo and PSU. At this time, I still didn't have the CPU (and even now I'm using a temp) or GPU. My plan was to get as much installed in advance to speed things up later. Getting the two in was pretty easy, and since the area was pretty clean I had free reign to run the wires as I wished. I think this was the most impressed I was with the build, since everything looked so clean back then.

[Mobo + PSU]

[Back of case]

After this, I left things as I waited to get a CPU. I had the PowerColor Red Dragon 5700XT that I could pull over in the meantime, so I was in no rush for the GPU. After a few weeks of waiting (blasted 5000 series stock issues), I caved and picked up a 3600X. Thankfully my Dad is also planning to do a build in the next few months, so he let me "borrow" this one until I get my hands on a 5950 or 5900. Knowing the CPU was on the way, I decided to install the GPU to make sure of the fit. The card went in fine, but the odd thing about the Red Dragon is that it is a very tall card. After installing it (which took a bit of finagling to get under the lip of the case), the power cables for the card were pushing out too far to put on the side panel.

[5700XT in case]

This is when I ran into problem 2, and lesson 1 for me: Always measure your cards, both for fit and for putting in/taking out.

Now that the card was installed, it wouldn't come out. I was able to push it past the lip on the case, but not able to pull it back out. Needless to say, you don't get much leverage pulling out of the case. Dad to the rescue with a wrench to help pry up the lip to give me enough clearance to pull the card out. Just ignore the slight bend in the side, right? the side panel went on fine though, so who cares, right?

[Picture of Parts]

Now if you notice in the picture above, I suddenly have a 3080. Not wanting to have to pry the 5700XT out a second time and getting a bit lucky, I managed to snag a TUF 3080. I'll only need to throw it in once and be done with... If only I followed my first lesson. Turns out the bottom fans didn't fit with the 3080 installed. Well, they fit, but it was incredibly snug with no room between the two. Sadly, I only realized once I put it in. And once again, not enough clearance to pull it out. Out comes the wrench to save the day again. (I later realized that there was a different lip causing my issues taking the 3080 out, but this still made the process easier).

The second issue is the honking AIO. The Artic Cool Freezer 2, 280ml. One of the top rating AIOs, and also a larger radiator than normal. I had seen online someone installing the 240ml into this case, so I figured the 280 would fit fine. There were 2 notes I failed to account for:
1) The screw holes don't line up (which wasn't too much of a problem) [Picture of side panel]
2) The mod I saw used a slim fan over the CPU. The tubing on the AIO comes straight up from the centre, meaning you need a good amount of clearence right in front. With a small case like this, you don't have all that much space. Also, there aren't many 140mm slim fans, and silly me didn't realize that a 280ml AIO would come with 2 140mm fans, not 120mm fans.

Solving 1 was an issue of drilling out new holes. Not so hard, and it was done in an hour after measuring and lining up numerous times (and still managing to miss 1 hole). 2 was the real problem, but I wouldn't notice it until I tried to install everything. After a failed installation, I figured out I needed about 1cm of clearance to fit everything together. Thankfully, the AIO came with spacers originally intended for intel platforms that were conveniently 1cm. Lucky!

[Picture of spacers]

So, now I just had to put everything together. During the spacer hunt, my Dad had suggested mounting the AIO on the outside of the case. There were a few reasons I was against it, mostly for airflow. This did give me the idea to take the spare case fans on the outside of the case in front of the GPU to help improve airflow.

So, after one more teardown, I got everything install. I have about 2mm of clearance between the AIO fans and tubing, which is enough to say the least. I had to do a lot of cable tying to get the tube pushed into the right place so I could get the clearance. Now, it was time to boot on and make sure everything works.

[Picture of final build]

This is what it looks like now. I'm actually liking the position, though the wires on top bug me. I ended up just moving my SSDs from my previous computer over, and Windows 10 just worked. Solid.

Now for lesson 2, and this is very specific to the Gigabyte B550i: Always have access to clear your CMOS if you are going to mess around in the BIOS. Especially so if you are going to OC your memory, like me.

On the Gigabyte B550i, clear CMOS doesn't work. You can't just throw a screw driver on the pins to short them and be back into the races. Googling online tells me this is a mobo issue rather than a board defect. So I was stuck with a bad Infinity Fabric OC and no way to clear is easily. Alright, let's just pull the battery. Looking at the manual, it should be right behind the Q-Flash button. Only problem is, you have to pull off the IO shield to get at it. The IO shield is screwed into the backplate... And so, I once again had to pull my computer apart to access a battery. AARRGG!

Probably the worst part of the battery pull is that the heat sync over the shield doesn't really come off, so you don't have much room to work with (No pictures, was distracted with OCing my memory). The plug is also very small, and the cable is twisted in a way that makes it naturally spin away from the socket. Makes putting the battery back in a real pain. But it gave me an idea looking at it. Since Q-Flash is right in front of the Battery, what if it is hooked up to the battery for some reason. After all of the other stupid stuff that had happened, I figure why not try it out. Of course, Q-Flash by itself wouldn't do anything other than flash, but it would trigger the CMOS. So, short the pins and Push the button. Boom, CMOS cleared. Why does this work? No idea. I tried just the Pins a few times after, and it still didn't work. Either way, I now had a way to clear CMOS, so back on the IO shield goes, and everything is installed again.

That takes me to today. Everything is working really well. Just undervolted by 3080 to 0.9V at 1995MHZ. Ram is at 15-15-15-15-30 @ 3800MHZ. Not planning to play with the CPU until I get my 59XX. The only issue I'm having is that for some reason, it won't boot into Windows without me going into the BIOS and doing a boot override. The video card doesn't start, though the event log says Windows does in fact start. Still debugging that one, but it feels pretty minor in the grand scheme of things.

(For some reason I can't link pics, so the folder is all for now. Feels like I've run into this before, but oh well.)
 
Last edited:

shadowhaxor

EIC of Theouterhaven
Verified
Oct 27, 2017
1,734
Claymont, Delaware

disgraciau

Member
Oct 27, 2017
1,902
Ibiza, Balearic Islands, Spain
Ryzen 3700X and Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB RAM DDR4 3200Mhz installed on my Node 202. Took me less time than expected. Oh boy, it's been a success. I was sweating when I saw it was taking more time than usual to POST. But everything went smoothly, even I managed to enable XMP 2.0 at 3200 Mhz with no crashes so far (I had some freezes that required hard reset with my old Ryzen 1600 + 16 GB 3000 Mhz Corsair combo)

img_20201201_103535cbjgl.jpg



As you can see, it's really tight tight tight. This cooler is one of the reasons of why I kept with Corsair Vengeance LPX RAM memories:

img_20201201_103622kbklu.jpg



There's only one thing that has me a bit worried: voltage. Temps are a bit high on idle (59 degrees) but that's ok because Cinebench R20 went smooth with a very stable 72 degrees, which is excellent for a Mini ITX setup. But I think the voltage is kinda high?

coretemp3wjp7.png


I read through some forums that the 3700x can be safely undervolted and at the same time get better temps without sacrificing performance. What do you think?


Despite that, I'm so proud to have built a so powerful rig in so little space.
 
Last edited:
Oct 25, 2017
12,319
I'm currently struggling to find an optimal fan configuration for my NR200. Between the CPU venting straight out the mesh panel and the GPU on the bottom, I'm not really sure what I should do for intake/exhaust fans.
 

super-famicom

Avenger
Oct 26, 2017
25,324
I'm currently struggling to find an optimal fan configuration for my NR200. Between the CPU venting straight out the mesh panel and the GPU on the bottom, I'm not really sure what I should do for intake/exhaust fans.

From what I've seen on the SFFPC subreddit, people have bottom fans below the GPU as intake, top fans as exhaust. What cpu cooler are you using?
 

Brandino

Avenger
Jan 9, 2018
2,104
I'm currently struggling to find an optimal fan configuration for my NR200. Between the CPU venting straight out the mesh panel and the GPU on the bottom, I'm not really sure what I should do for intake/exhaust fans.
When I had an air cooler, I had mine with the two fans on top as exhaust, side and bottom fans as intake.

I'm watercooled now, so I have intake on my radiator, one fan up top for exhaust, and the two bottom ones intake
 

super-famicom

Avenger
Oct 26, 2017
25,324
Yeah I'll keep the top one as exhaust until I can get some slim fans for the bottom as I take.

If you don't want to spring for the Noctua NF A12x15 PWM fans, my friend uses Scythe Kaze Slim 120s. They work fine for him but he hasn't tried other fans out. He's got a Gigabyte 3080 Vision too, which is a chonk of a card and the fans fit well underneath.
 

dylie

Member
Oct 25, 2017
196
Hey, everyone. I am building a Mini ITX PC for my girlfriend as a Christmas present, and I found a good deal on a Thermaltake Core V1 from a user on the site. It was a complete system w/o a GPU, but the user didn't pack the PC properly which caused damage to the case. I was able to fix the small dents and blemishes to the case but two of the rubber feet on the case are gone. Does anyone know where I could either get some replacement feet, or if I am able to buy some generic feet for the case?