Daedardus

Member
Oct 25, 2017
933
So close on pulling the trigger on a drone (DJI Mini Pro 4), ShapeGSX please enlighten me whether it's a good idea to get into drone videos/photography.

No corporate event wants an album full of B&W's sadly.

Yeah that's the annoying part. Luckily I don't do those events as a job so I can just do whatever I want.

Yea I found that out at my wife's work Christmas party. I brought my camera and snapped some photos and her HR lady asked her if I could send some of the photos the next day so she could use them for the work newsletter but couldn't use them because they were in B&W haha.

You didn't shoot in RAW?
 

Barrel Cannon

It's Pronounced "Aerith"
The Fallen
Oct 25, 2017
9,386
So close on pulling the trigger on a drone (DJI Mini Pro 4), ShapeGSX please enlighten me whether it's a good idea to get into drone videos/photography.



Yeah that's the annoying part. Luckily I don't do those events as a job so I can just do whatever I want.



You didn't shoot in RAW?
I did but I edited it in B&W and didn't feel like re-editing the photos in Color haha. I didn't feel insulted because I get that it's their preference as a company, but it was funny because my wife sent me some of the photos that they did use and it was some bad cell phone photos. I don't look down cell phone photos but with how dark the environment was those photos came out a lot worse than what I sent.
 
Oct 25, 2017
26,994
Yeah that's the annoying part. Luckily I don't do those events as a job so I can just do whatever I want.
Yeah if I shot an event like that I'd get a "boy the fuck are you doing email" from somebody at my job LOL
I did but I edited it in B&W and didn't feel like re-editing the photos in Color haha. I didn't feel insulted because I get that it's their preference as a company, but it was funny because my wife sent me some of the photos that they did use and it was some bad cell phone photos. I don't look down cell phone photos but with how dark the environment was those photos came out a lot worse than what I sent.
People want shit fast. Cellphone is quick. This is why if I'm asked to shoot something and they want me to transfer over some pics from the event I'm not using a DSLR. D850 doesn't like Snapbridge much and the D4S and D5 don't even connect to it. I'm also glad I can transfer over full sized jpegs now and not compressed ones.
 

Barrel Cannon

It's Pronounced "Aerith"
The Fallen
Oct 25, 2017
9,386
Yeah if I shot an event like that I'd get a "boy the fuck are you doing email" from somebody at my job LOL

People want shit fast. Cellphone is quick. This is why if I'm asked to shoot something and they want me to transfer over some pics from the event I'm not using a DSLR. D850 doesn't like Snapbridge much and the D4S and D5 don't even connect to it. I'm also glad I can transfer over full sized jpegs now and not compressed ones.
It would have been a quick job for me, but regardless I wasn't going to re-edit the photos for a big corporate entity without being paid.

Transferring compressed JPEGs made me dislike the Sony app so much. I stopped using it the moment I stopped caring about posting my photos on social media. I'd rather just transfer files to my laptop and edit over editing a photo on my phone.
 
Oct 25, 2017
26,994
It would have been a quick job for me, but regardless I wasn't going to re-edit the photos for a big corporate entity without being paid.

Transferring compressed JPEGs made me dislike the Sony app so much. I stopped using it the moment I stopped caring about posting my photos on social media. I'd rather just transfer files to my laptop and edit over editing a photo on my phone.
I don't touch editing on my phone any way. If I need something that badly I try to get it right enough in camera and I edit on my computer.
 

ShapeGSX

Member
Nov 13, 2017
5,270
So close on pulling the trigger on a drone (DJI Mini Pro 4), ShapeGSX please enlighten me whether it's a good idea to get into drone videos/photography.

A good idea? Probably not. :-D But it's a fun thing to do! I'm full of bad ideas! Keep in mind that the cameras on drones are basically phone cameras. You can't expect more than that in terms of quality. So if you're coming from a mirrorless realm, the photos and video can disappoint in terms of quality. The benefit of course, is that you can't hope to get the same position out of any hand held camera. And when you get good at it, you can get some really amazing video and hyperlapses.

The Mini 4 Pro is a great drone with a good camera. They worked some magic with the dynamic range of that camera compared to the drones of a few years ago, even those with 1" sensors. It is still pretty small, though, so it can get blown around a bit with the wind. Not much of a problem for video or even photos because DJI gimbals are so good. But you can see it more on hyperlapses if it is breezy.
 

Daedardus

Member
Oct 25, 2017
933
A good idea? Probably not. :-D But it's a fun thing to do! I'm full of bad ideas! Keep in mind that the cameras on drones are basically phone cameras. You can't expect more than that in terms of quality. So if you're coming from a mirrorless realm, the photos and video can disappoint in terms of quality. The benefit of course, is that you can't hope to get the same position out of any hand held camera. And when you get good at it, you can get some really amazing video and hyperlapses.

The Mini 4 Pro is a great drone with a good camera. They worked some magic with the dynamic range of that camera compared to the drones of a few years ago, even those with 1" sensors. It is still pretty small, though, so it can get blown around a bit with the wind. Not much of a problem for video or even photos because DJI gimbals are so good. But you can see it more on hyperlapses if it is breezy.

Yeah I'm not expecting any super magic quality but indeed drone footage is something you'll never get through a regular camera. The thing with the Mini is that the regulations are quite relaxed so you can fly in A1 easily, although I have my drone certificate so I am allowed to fly the Air 3. But that has the same wide angle sensor and it's way bigger so harder to take on holiday. Dream of course would be a Mavic Pro but that has pretty strict regulations and I'd need to do the written exam to fly it in A2.

I'll think about it for a bit, I'd maybe use it for the Iceland trip although I know you can't fly it in most touristy places. Rather spent the money first on the 16-35mm lens.
 

kami_sama

Member
Oct 26, 2017
7,051
I'm back from my trip and I'm looking even more into cameras.
My minolta x-300 died on me and had to buy another camera, went with a x-700 because I already had lenses for that mount.
After having a blast taking photos, but having to contain myself because I was using film, I want to get a digital one even more.

Looking at entry-level cameras. I was looking into the Canon r10, but the selection of rf-s lenses is abysmal. I think the 18-150 will be plenty enough for now, but yeah.
I also want to use my old lenses with it, and at least for the rf mount there's adaptors, but I'm right that my 50mm will turn into a 80mm, right? Will I still be able to get an aperture of f/1.7 for bokeh?

If you have any other option, please tell me. Mostly about the lenses available.
 

Barrel Cannon

It's Pronounced "Aerith"
The Fallen
Oct 25, 2017
9,386
I finally bit the bullet and bought an M3 yesterday night from KEH. The 20% discount on used gear made it a lot more digestible. I bought a bargain copy. I just want it to be functioning well primarily because I plan to use it as a daily carry. I'm hoping there aren't any name engravings or anything like that on it but I can deal with scratches and the black material being chipped.

The only downside is the money I set aside for a telephoto film lens +solar filter this month got bit into by the purchase.

My plan is to either adapt a Pentax 67 telephoto lens to my Sony body(400mm or 500mm). Debating whether to do that or use it on my Pentax with a speed booster. I just don't know if I want to deal with trying to focus on the sun using the Pentax vs focusing with the Sony.

Would the image from the MF lens on a FF body result in a cropped portion of the image, for example when using a 400mm Pentax lens would the 400mm image be cropped to the 800mm portion when used on my sony body due to the sensor only covering the middle of the image circle. I do get that the actual focal length and properties are all unchanged on the lens itself.

The reason I'm planning to grab the lens is just to mainly take a shot of the solar eclipse but I'll also take it with me to Iceland next month so hoping to get some mileage out of it
 

ArtTeitlebaum

▲ Legend ▲
Member
Oct 25, 2017
1,259
Europe
I also want to use my old lenses with it, and at least for the rf mount there's adaptors, but I'm right that my 50mm will turn into a 80mm, right? Will I still be able to get an aperture of f/1.7 for bokeh?
Yep 80mm is correct. Because of the different DoF the bokeh is more like a 2.7 aperture on FF. The light stays the same, so exposure speed is unchanged but the bokeh is not quite the same as on FF.
You can play with the parameters on https://dofsimulator.net/en/
 

kami_sama

Member
Oct 26, 2017
7,051
Yep 80mm is correct. Because of the different DoF the bokeh is more like a 2.7 aperture on FF. The light stays the same, so exposure speed is unchanged but the bokeh is not quite the same as on FF.
You can play with the parameters on https://dofsimulator.net/en/
Thanks for the link, I've played a bit and considering the 50mm is the only lens I can use for bokeh it's a bit disappointing that it's so cropped.
I'm still going with the r10, because it's still pretty cheap with the 18-150mm. But hoping Canon releases a large aperture lens for rf-s.
That 18-150 and a 50mm 1.8 would be great for me.
 

grmlin

Member
Oct 25, 2017
10,377
Germany
a 50 1.8 would be no different than your 50 1.7 though? It will be newer and probably much sharper, but dof and perspective will be the same.

To me RF-S seems to be an empty system you'll have to use with full frame lenses anyway. Incredibly underwhelming imo with all these fantastic other systems available these days (with full 3rd party support). Chorazin loves his 1.2 lenses he bought recently for example
 

kami_sama

Member
Oct 26, 2017
7,051
a 50 1.8 would be no different than your 50 1.7 though? It will be newer and probably much sharper, but dof and perspective will be the same.

To me RF-S seems to be an empty system you'll have to use with full frame lenses anyway. Incredibly underwhelming imo with all these fantastic other systems available these days (with full 3rd party support). Chorazin loves his 1.2 lenses he bought recently for example
D'oh, I fat fingered that 1.8, I meant 1.7.
Yeah, rf-s has underwhelming lens selection, but when other cameras cost almost double for a similar performance, I don't mind being locked in for now.
And I just looked at the 50mm f/1. 2 from ttartisan, which while being full manual, it's pretty cheap.
But I'm open to any other ideas.
 

grmlin

Member
Oct 25, 2017
10,377
Germany
I didn't want to say that it's the exact same thing, but the difference of a 50mm 1.7 to 1.8 should be minimal to non existent :) The results can be different, of course, sharpness, optical performance etc...

I would buy a system with the lenses available you would like to own. They all build good cameras, but if it's just the price I would buy used instead of a system that limited. To me, RF-S seems to be lackluster right now.

Sony is great, Fuji is great, can't really go wrong with these.
 

kami_sama

Member
Oct 26, 2017
7,051
I didn't want to say that it's the exact same thing, but the difference of a 50mm 1.7 to 1.8 should be minimal to non existent :) The results can be different, of course, sharpness, optical performance etc...

I would buy a system with the lenses available you would like to own. They all build good cameras, but if it's just the price I would buy used instead of a system that limited. To me, RF-S seems to be lackluster right now.

Sony is great, Fuji is great, can't really go wrong with these.
Fuji is out of the picture, they're like 50% more expensive.
I've looked at Sony, and the a6600 with an 18-135 is around the same price as the r10 with the 18-150.
Would that be a good buy?
 

Barrel Cannon

It's Pronounced "Aerith"
The Fallen
Oct 25, 2017
9,386
Hopefully the 18-150 can tide you over until other primes become available. As someone who shoots a lot manual focus lenses I do think they are worth grabbing but I feel like grabbing two RF autofocus primes is the best way to start off your lens selection. Pairing the 16mm 2.8 with your 50mm would be a good combo imo
 
Oct 29, 2017
4,306
So as someone who wants a good camera but doesn't plan to go that deep I found some models on Amazon and wanted to see the opinions here. I mostly plan to take pics of birds and nature while going on trips.

71jLKUF-krL._AC_SX679_.jpg

EOS Rebel T100 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II BR, Canon, T100 EF-S 18

61X5gA2n9lL._AC_SX679_.jpg

EOS 2000D DSLR EF-S 18-55 mm f/3.5-5.6 is II

I'm thinking about getting an used camera too
 

Chorazin

Member
Nov 13, 2017
1,278
Lancaster County, PA, USA
So as someone who wants a good camera but doesn't plan to go that deep I found some models on Amazon and wanted to see the opinions here. I mostly plan to take pics of birds and nature while going on trips.

71jLKUF-krL._AC_SX679_.jpg

EOS Rebel T100 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II BR, Canon, T100 EF-S 18

61X5gA2n9lL._AC_SX679_.jpg

EOS 2000D DSLR EF-S 18-55 mm f/3.5-5.6 is II

I'm thinking about getting an used camera too

We need to know your budget before we can really start giving recommendations.
 
Oct 25, 2017
26,994
If anybody in here is curious about getting into GFX I'm going to recommend the 80 1.7 as your first lens if you got the budget for it. That 63mm equivalent is like perfect for studio work. Does full body and closer shots with ease.
 

kami_sama

Member
Oct 26, 2017
7,051
I have a burning question, most manufacturers have two different sets of lenses for their copped sensors (M43 and APS-C) and their full ones (FF and MF), but their numbers are not comparable, right?
i.e. would a 50mm lens designed for M43 be 25mm equivalent for FF? Similarly would 50mm for aps-c be like 33 on ff?
 

grmlin

Member
Oct 25, 2017
10,377
Germany
I have a burning question, most manufacturers have two different sets of lenses for their copped sensors (M43 and APS-C) and their full ones (FF and MF), but their numbers are not comparable, right?
i.e. would a 50mm lens designed for M43 be 25mm equivalent for FF? Similarly would 50mm for aps-c be like 33 on ff?
A lens with 50mm is a lens with 50mm. It does not matter if it's made for 4/3, APS-C, Full Frame or Medium Format.
BUT: if it's made for 4/3 chances are high, that it can't fill the full APS-C sensor's size for example. You would end up with tons of vignetting or black corners/borders.

The other way around should always work. If you adapt a Full Frame lens to a smaller sensor, only parts of it's originally intended projection area will be used.


That said: a 50mm on a 4/3 camera will produce a very different image than on a Full Frame sensor. It has a crop factor of 2, so it's like using a 100mm on full frame. The dof is also affected by this. That's why the photos of a 50mm 1.2 on an APS-C sensor look more like a 75mm 1.8 on Full Frame.

You can use a calculator like this one to get an idea. https://www.omnicalculator.com/other/crop-factor
 

kami_sama

Member
Oct 26, 2017
7,051
A lens with 50mm is a lens with 50mm. It does not matter if it's made for 4/3, APS-C, Full Frame or Medium Format.
BUT: if it's made for 4/3 chances are high, that it can't fill the full APS-C sensor's size for example. You would end up with tons of vignetting or black corners/borders.

The other way around should always work. If you adapt a Full Frame lens to a smaller sensor, only parts of it's originally intended projection area will be used.


That said: a 50mm on a 4/3 camera will produce a very different image than on a Full Frame sensor. It has a crop factor of 2, so it's like using a 100mm on full frame. The dof is also affected by this. That's why the photos of a 50mm 1.2 on an APS-C sensor look more like a 75mm 1.8 on Full Frame.

You can use a calculator like this one to get an idea. https://www.omnicalculator.com/other/crop-factor
Ok, so compared to my film camera, the aps-c sensor on the a6600 would look 1.5x zoomed in (27-202mm equivalent)
 

ShapeGSX

Member
Nov 13, 2017
5,270
Took my 70-200mm to the waterfall down the street with an ND64 filter and got an 8 second exposure on my tripod. I didn't think that something longer than 2 seconds would make a difference, but it really smooths the water out a ton by shooting for 8 seconds.

4euIpnf.jpeg
 

ShapeGSX

Member
Nov 13, 2017
5,270

Thanks!

Viltrox announced several f1.2 lenses today. I love my Viltrox 16mm f1.8, especially for the $550 price. It will be interesting to see what prices these lenses launch at.



Four new "LAB" series lenses (Full Frame autofocus lenses for Sony E and Nikon Z):

  • AF35mm F1.2 LAB
  • AF50mm F1.2 LAB
  • AF85mm F1.2 LAB
  • AF135mm F1.8 LAB
One new PRO APS-C lens (Sony E, Nikon Z, Fuji X):

  • Focal length not discloses but it will be a f/1.2 prime like the already existing 27mm f/1.2 and 75mm f/1.2
Three new PRO FF lenses (Sony E, Nikon Z):

  • AF35mm F1.4 Pro,
  • AF50mm F1.4 Pro,
  • AF85mm F1.4 Pro
Full Frame Cine lens::

  • Vitrox LUNA30-300mm T4.0 10X
Lense already announced that are coming soon:

  • Viltrox AF16mm F1.8 Nikon Z full frame.
  • Viltrox AF56mm F1.7 APS-C Nikon Z/Sony E/Fuji X,
  • Viltrox AF40mm F2.5 Nikon Z/Sony E full frame
 

Daedardus

Member
Oct 25, 2017
933
Took my 70-200mm to the waterfall down the street with an ND64 filter and got an 8 second exposure on my tripod. I didn't think that something longer than 2 seconds would make a difference, but it really smooths the water out a ton by shooting for 8 seconds.

Do you also have the same feeling as I had that you don't even care what the lens costed anymore now you're using it?
 
Oct 25, 2017
26,994
I'm still in shock whenever I use my M10 lol. It's even worse now that I own the 75mm. Still hard for me to believe that I actually own this.
When GFX first got introduced I never thought I'd own one of these and then I didn't think I'd enjoy shooting it. Glad you're enjoying your Leica. It's not a dream camera to me, but who knows, I'd probably want one in a handful of years. If a Q2 ever gets affordable I'd look at one.
 

ShapeGSX

Member
Nov 13, 2017
5,270
Do you also have the same feeling as I had that you don't even care what the lens costed anymore now you're using it?

Yeah, it's a pretty amazing lens. :-D I don't think about the cost anymore.

I'm considering getting a teleconverter for my 70-200 GMII. I know that the 2.0 teleconverter definitely is more soft than the 1.4x, but the 1.4 seems barely worth it since I'd only get up to 280mm. :-/

I was also looking at the manual focus TTArtisan 500mm lens for $329. Most of what I'd be taking photos of using this lens would be stationary, so the manual focus isn't that big a deal.

The main thing that I want to take photos of at greater than 200mm in the immediate future would be the Eclipse on April 8th. But I also want to take some moon alignment photos of landscapes or buildings. The teleconverter is attractive because I could take it anywhere, but I wouldn't necessarily want to bring a 500mm lens on a plane with me along with my 70-200mm.
 

Barrel Cannon

It's Pronounced "Aerith"
The Fallen
Oct 25, 2017
9,386
Anyone have any recommendations on buying binoculars. Thinking of buying one for the upcoming eclipse but wondering if it's worth going the used route instead of trying to buy one brand new.
 

Barrel Cannon

It's Pronounced "Aerith"
The Fallen
Oct 25, 2017
9,386
I would not recommend looking into the sun with binoculars unless you have properly rated solar filters.
I have some of those solar eclipse safety glasses from "American Paper". I was planning to wear that behind my binoculars until totality.

During totality I plan to view it with the binoculars and take off the safety eclipse glasses. I'll put them back on before totality ends.

Also I scrapped my plans of trying to take a photo. Seemed too expensive for the gear I would still need to get. Just going to shoot a video of the surrounding park around me that I'm going to view it at.
 

ShapeGSX

Member
Nov 13, 2017
5,270
I have some of those solar eclipse safety glasses from "American Paper". I was planning to wear that behind my binoculars until totality.

During totality I plan to view it with the binoculars and take off the safety eclipse glasses. I'll put them back on before totality ends.

Also I scrapped my plans of trying to take a photo. Seemed too expensive for the gear I would still need to get. Just going to shoot a video of the surrounding park around me that I'm going to view it at.

No no no. The solar film needs to be in FRONT of any lenses! If you do it the other way around, the full force of the sun's light will melt through any solar film!

So solar film on the front of the binoculars will work fine. On the back and you're likely to burn your eyes and your binoculars.
 

Barrel Cannon

It's Pronounced "Aerith"
The Fallen
Oct 25, 2017
9,386
No no no. The solar film needs to be in FRONT of any lenses! If you do it the other way around, the full force of the sun's light will melt through any solar film!

So solar film on the front of the binoculars will work fine. On the back and you're likely to burn your eyes and your binoculars.
Thanks for the PSA. I'll keep the binoculars off until the totality portion then.