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The PC Builders Thread ("I Need a New PC") v2
- Thread starter Soda
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So this little guy came in the mail today, about 3 days sooner than expected!
All of you were right, its easy to install, it took an extra step cause my Asus motherboard has a shield thing for it that you have to unscrew, install the drive, then screw the shield on top of the drive. Something about helping with temps I guess.
Since I didn't wanna mess with changing boot drives and all that, I left my 1TB 860 EVO SATA ssd as the main boot drive with the 970 EVO as a secondary drive.
Is that ok to do? the apps installed on the 970 should still get the extra speed from it even if the OS is installed on the SATA ssd right?
I ran ssd benchmark and this were the results:
Just making sure everything looks good. The userbenchmark had a pretty good score too.
Is the Acer GF246 a good monitor to buy for gaming? My current monitor is dying and Newegg is selling it for $100
Any motherboard recommendations for a i9-9900K? I was thinking about the ASUS Crosshair VI Hero, but open to better suggestions.
Ryzen 2700X is $279.99 at Walmart now. Not as good as the $249.99 MicroCenter deal, but Walmart does shipping.
That crosshair motherboard is for AMD cpus, but for the 9900k I would personally be looking at the Gigabyte boards, anything in the $170-$300 range (aorus elite, pro, ultra, master, or designare). https://pcpartpicker.com/products/motherboard/#m=18&c=135&sort=price&page=1
You're right, I had it confused with the Maximus XI Hero. All these names sound alike!
I'll look into Gigabyte models too, thanks.
Np. The reason why I like the Gigabyte boards is that they have really stellar power delivery for the 9900k. From the things I've seen, it looks like Asus has cheaped out a bit for Z390 (relative to its competitors).
God, putting my new rig together was more obnoxious than expected, and this is like the eighth I've done, so it should have been way faster. The case I got didn't come with the motherboard screws, and I didn't want to use what I had in my other PCs just yet so I bought a mixed screw kit that had standoffs, washers and various screws. So, I get the motherboard mounted, and when trying to affix it with the screws, half of them would thread, tighten and then just keep turning. It wasn't the standoff either, because they are permanent. So I took the motherboard out and tested each standoff with a dedicated screw to see if each would thread. They all did, all the way down and tightened just fine. So I put the motherboard back in and end up with the same issue as before, and I have no idea how that's happening. Once they start threading and tightening, that should be it right? So I said fuck it, and just decided to use the screws meant to keep HDs in cages. They tightened all the way just fine, so whatever.
The next issue was getting the stupid U14s to mount correctly. It's such an easy system, but for whatever reason, the spring screws were not wanting to catch for shit, and since I'm using a graphite pad, it kept shifting around each time I would move the heat sink. Took me probably twenty minutes to finally get it fastened, and I don't have any idea yet if the pad shifted enough to warrant taking the heat sink off again. I just wanted to get everything assembled and get to the Windows installation first, then mess with cable management (good god the cables that came with my HX1000 are inflexible, and my Corsair case oddly has some cable management issues by default). Oh, and if I want to ever remove my GPU, it looks like I actually have to take off the heat sink, because the release to the PCI-e slot is buried under the card, and the heat sink is close enough to the release that I can't get any good pressure with a finger.
So I finally turn it on and...click, click, click (just the BIOS doing its first time initilization I guess) and yellow blinking lights. I let it run for a bit, and the lights don't go out. Apparently one of the ram modules was either not mounted exactly right (I had problems getting it in), or just not working, so instead of fucking with that, I just decided to use one in single channel to see if I could even install Windows. Well, that just now finished, and I'm at the desktop...
The next issue was getting the stupid U14s to mount correctly. It's such an easy system, but for whatever reason, the spring screws were not wanting to catch for shit, and since I'm using a graphite pad, it kept shifting around each time I would move the heat sink. Took me probably twenty minutes to finally get it fastened, and I don't have any idea yet if the pad shifted enough to warrant taking the heat sink off again. I just wanted to get everything assembled and get to the Windows installation first, then mess with cable management (good god the cables that came with my HX1000 are inflexible, and my Corsair case oddly has some cable management issues by default). Oh, and if I want to ever remove my GPU, it looks like I actually have to take off the heat sink, because the release to the PCI-e slot is buried under the card, and the heat sink is close enough to the release that I can't get any good pressure with a finger.
So I finally turn it on and...click, click, click (just the BIOS doing its first time initilization I guess) and yellow blinking lights. I let it run for a bit, and the lights don't go out. Apparently one of the ram modules was either not mounted exactly right (I had problems getting it in), or just not working, so instead of fucking with that, I just decided to use one in single channel to see if I could even install Windows. Well, that just now finished, and I'm at the desktop...
Friend has asked me what would be the best bang for buck 32" monitor upto £200? Sounds like a big ask to me but haven't kept up with this area of computers in recent years to know...
OP
OP
They do 10-25% off sitewide coupons about once every 1-3 months. It'll be back.
My goodness the 970 EVO is fast.
I will admit, it doesn't come close to the jump from a HDD to SATA SSD, but it is still noticeable to me.
I will admit, it doesn't come close to the jump from a HDD to SATA SSD, but it is still noticeable to me.
God damn it, I just got 16 GB of 3000 MHz RAM at 16-18-18-38 timings, but now a pair of 3200 MHz RAM (16-18-18-36) has shown up for cheaper
How much of a performance increase would the 3200 RAM get me? I'm on a Ryzen 7 1700.
How much of a performance increase would the 3200 RAM get me? I'm on a Ryzen 7 1700.
OP
OP
I've had good luck on Era, eBay, and Craigslist.
We're talking like 1-2% max. 3000 to 3200 isn't a massive change, even for Ryzen. If you can get it for cheaper you probably should, assuming you can easily cancel your first order, but it REALLY isn't going to have a lot of practical difference.
where is said memory being sold? I'm in the market for 3200 RAM currently.
Yesterday, Newegg had the Alienware Aw3418DW for $809.99 after coupon. Not sure why but it's $90 cheaper on their ebay store. $719.99
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Alienware-AW3418DW-34-Curved-WQHD-4ms-120Hz-NVIDIA-G-Sync-Gaming-Monitor/382291335699?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
I originally was just going to wait until 4k 144hz gets cheaper but that's going to take a while due so I jumped on this in the mean time.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Alienware-AW3418DW-34-Curved-WQHD-4ms-120Hz-NVIDIA-G-Sync-Gaming-Monitor/382291335699?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
I originally was just going to wait until 4k 144hz gets cheaper but that's going to take a while due so I jumped on this in the mean time.
Aghhh. The 3000 RAM is already opened and installed in my tower. Seems like a waste, then. Plus the RGB in the 3200 doesn't sync with my motherboard lol
Memory Express in Canada. Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro, $169.99 CAD.
OP
OP
Good build! Your PSU is super massive overkill wattage-wise. I'd recommend a 650-750w PSU (which is still overkill, but less so).https://pcpartpicker.com/product/2H...-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020178-na The one linked here is a very high quality PSU that is cheaper and fully-modular, so I'd recommend it as an example. The only reason to do 1000w is if you plan to run a second GPU.
Otherwise, I might say to check out the be quiet! Pure Rock CPU Cooler as an option instead of your Hyper 212. Similar price, but should cool about the same while being a bit quieter. Just something to consider. If you add it to your part list, PCPartPicker will make sure it fits your case (though I believe it will fit).
Just some options for you to consider.
If you aren't overclocking the stock cooler with the Ryzen CPUs is actually really good.
Okay. What's the difference between a 1080TI and a 1080, besides 3GB of VRAM?
The last remaining $999 GIGABYTE 1080TI at Canada Comp is already spoken for, but they're having a $549 sale on the 1080 tomorrow.
What would be the difference between two 1080 SLI and a single 1080TI?
The last remaining $999 GIGABYTE 1080TI at Canada Comp is already spoken for, but they're having a $549 sale on the 1080 tomorrow.
What would be the difference between two 1080 SLI and a single 1080TI?
The 1080 Ti is around 30% faster than the standard 1080. But it's definitely not worth $1000. At that price, you would be way better off spending $600 - $800 for a 2080 (almost exactly the same performance). SLI can give a pretty big boost in some games when it works, but not enough games support it to warrant the hassles of maintaining it. Pretty sure two 1080s in SLI would outperform a single 1080 Ti, but not enough of the time to matter. This is from past SLI experiences though, and NVLink might be the new version that actually works more often than not.
edit: This actually puts it into perspective. Two 1080s in SLI perfoms slightly better than one 2080 Ti. In this game at least, but those frame times look terrible.
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Damn.
How come isn't SLI more widely supported? Also, finding a 2080 for $600-$800 in Canada is kinda impossible.
Because of all the problems it has. It doesn't work on every game, and usually has to have the support added from Nvidia drivers on a per game basis, plus the frame times give it a "stuttery" feel when it happens, despite being a higher frame rate than on a single card solution. This is why usually you only see people espousing SLI or triple SLI when they are either just going for the maximum highest frame rate they can get for certain games, or the highest resolution with a good frame rate. I'd say most are fine just sticking with 60fps - 144fps at whatever resolution they can with a single card instead.
Unless you're like some (not naming names!) who would choose 4K - 8K even if it means playing at 30fps.
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I also read that turning GSYNC on while on SLI only makes matters worse trying to eliminate the stutter.
Well, am I better off just sticking with one 1080? Is it worth it hunting down a 1080TI? What does the higher clockspeed and extra memory do for me in terms of performance?
I'm not looking to build a PC but buy a custom one off E-Bay. Basically I want a budget rig that will do some 4K gaming/video (Battlefield 5 on med/high 4K would be nice) and also allow me to play VR.
I found this and thought it was really reasonable from all the research I've been doing:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/eMonster...h=item214cda815d:g:xp8AAOSwBkNb9nTg:rk:5:pf:0
I found this and thought it was really reasonable from all the research I've been doing:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/eMonster...h=item214cda815d:g:xp8AAOSwBkNb9nTg:rk:5:pf:0
8GB ram at 2400, 1060, and a i5 6400...yah I could be wrong but I really don't see that running BF 5 at 4k.
Not that it matters, but seriously why does this have a 1000 watt PSU?
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Any chance that graphics card prices are going to crash now that bit coin has dropped below 5k? I'd imagine that there's some point where mining isn't worthwhile anymore and the market should end up flooded with used 1080s pushing nvidia to drop the price on newer cards.
Can someone recommend me a gpu/mb/ram combination for my planned pc upgrade. I'm currently running an i5 4690k at 4.1 paired with a 1080ti I recently scored off ebay. My main use is sim racing in VR using an OR. I'm currently using a 1080p tv, but may upgrade to a 1440p high refresh rate gaming monitor soon. I'll be reusing the case, aoi cooler and power supply (evga 750w gold).
One can hope...I'm not paying $500 for a 2070. Card should be 349 max.
Personally I don't get it, I remember reading that Nvidia was sitting on a boat load of Pascal stock. Well, where is it?
I agree with you, but I can also promise you that 2070 prices are not inflated by cryptocurrency
The 2080 Ti is not a mining card and its still selling out at $1200+ so I don't think prices will go down anytime soon.
Oh I don't doubt that, it has nothing to do with crypto and everything to do with zero competition.
Walmart basically killed the 1070 prebuilt deal I was looking at by making it $100, so that's a no-go.
However, Skytech's website is $100 off Mark 3's, which makes it pretty competitive. I'm deciding on a MOBO.
Default is a ASRock A320m
$38: ASRock B450 Pro4 (this was what I was currently thinking of)
$60: ASUS B450 Prime Plus (seems fairly neck and neck with the ASrock b450)
$85: Gigabyte B450 Aorus Pro (this version has no reviews on pcpartspicker, the version with wifi included has some really bad reviews)
$95: MSI B450 Gaming Pro Carbon
$95: ASUS B450 ROG Strix Gaming
This is for a Ryzen 5 2600 and GTX 1060 6gb, with 16gb of ddr4 2400mhz.
However, Skytech's website is $100 off Mark 3's, which makes it pretty competitive. I'm deciding on a MOBO.
Default is a ASRock A320m
$38: ASRock B450 Pro4 (this was what I was currently thinking of)
$60: ASUS B450 Prime Plus (seems fairly neck and neck with the ASrock b450)
$85: Gigabyte B450 Aorus Pro (this version has no reviews on pcpartspicker, the version with wifi included has some really bad reviews)
$95: MSI B450 Gaming Pro Carbon
$95: ASUS B450 ROG Strix Gaming
This is for a Ryzen 5 2600 and GTX 1060 6gb, with 16gb of ddr4 2400mhz.
Ended up returning my new monitor unfortunately :(
I use dark mode in a lot of the programs (Eclipse, IntelliJ, Postman, etc...) and websites (Youtube, Reddit, Twitch, this forum, etc...) and the monitor had some backlight bleed that was annoying me so after 4 days decided to return it.
Back on my old 1080p monitor for the time being... hard to go back once you've seen games running in 4K with those IPS colors...
I use dark mode in a lot of the programs (Eclipse, IntelliJ, Postman, etc...) and websites (Youtube, Reddit, Twitch, this forum, etc...) and the monitor had some backlight bleed that was annoying me so after 4 days decided to return it.
Back on my old 1080p monitor for the time being... hard to go back once you've seen games running in 4K with those IPS colors...
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Has anyone here used custom cables, and if so, from where and how flexible are they? I really need some different cables with my case for management. My 24 pin is like this giant, twisting oak that barely bends, and the two PCI-e cables to my card are the forked kind, so I have cables coming out of cables and they aren't very flexible either. My case is actually an mATX case, but it can house an ATX board (which is what I am using). The main issue though is that with the way my cables are, I can't really put my SSD cage in the bottom, and I'll be lucky if I can make use of one of the three SSD slots on the back of the motherboard due to how cramped it is with these fat, and unyielding cables. M.2 is great and all, and I'm using one, but I need more than just that, and 1TB or higher is just out of the question right now. I have a 1TB 860 Evo for games.
I use CableMod and they are great. Just make sure to ge the ones for your PSU.
Gotta any case recommendations?
Looking for a new tower for my new rig I'm piecing together.
I have a HAF 912 currently but I'm keeping my current rig as is.
Not to picky but here's some details if it'll help:
I don't care if it has a glass panel or not. Max $100 budget. Front Panels input not required but I like them. Around the same size as my Haf 912: Dimensions (H x W x D) 18.90" x 9.10" x 19.50"
Hell I'll take just a list of good cases/what you currently have and go from there!
Looking for a new tower for my new rig I'm piecing together.
I have a HAF 912 currently but I'm keeping my current rig as is.
Not to picky but here's some details if it'll help:
I don't care if it has a glass panel or not. Max $100 budget. Front Panels input not required but I like them. Around the same size as my Haf 912: Dimensions (H x W x D) 18.90" x 9.10" x 19.50"
Hell I'll take just a list of good cases/what you currently have and go from there!
Yeah, I checked them out after posting and will probably go with them for the 24-pin, 2x PCI-e and maybe get a slightly longer CPU cable so that I can maneuver it around the back SSD sled easier to make it viable. The only thing I'm unsure of is how different they are from a technical standpoint. They are listed a "type 4", but those that came with my PSU have those huge, bulb type things at the end near the connector (I thought those were capcitors), and those are supposed to be for ripple. Cablemod's don't appear to have that. No idea if it would make much of a difference in the end though. They definitely look way more pliable though for sure.
Who can tell me their thoughts about the Logitech G305 wireless mouse
Or point me in the direction of trustworthy reviews
Or point me in the direction of trustworthy reviews
Just FYI to those using nowinstock for a 9900k, it's been going in and out of stock at best buy the last day (costs less at best buy than Newegg). I ordered one this morning when it was listed in stock and it actually shipped out already tonight so maybe the wait time is going down. I didn't expect it to ship out right away. I had some best buy credit I needed to use up too that I didn't plan on using for much else so the cost was pretty nice overall.
I had no idea you could stack rebates like this for Newegg eBay purchases. Good to know!
I had no idea you could stack rebates like this for Newegg eBay purchases. Good to know!
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Does anybody know what the difference between the 1080 TURBO OC 8GB and the 1080 G1 is? The TURBO one only seems to have one fan, while all other 1080's I've seen from Gygabyte have 3. It's also cheaper I think...
I'm this close from pulling the trigger on a 2080 Ti.
I'm this close from pulling the trigger on a 2080 Ti.
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