Congrats! From the pics that seems like a sweet looking guitar.
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Guitar |OT| If you stick with it, you're gonna be rewarded
- Thread starter Neo0mj
- Start date
Congrats, get a couple of those round plastic things you put in the strap to secure them.
Sounds like you almost want a DI, something like a Sansamp. They're very popular with bassists who run through PAs and for home recording.
The lightest amp setup that's worthwhile is probably something like an Ampeg Portaflex or, if you've got a bit more budget, an Aguilar Tone Hammer with a 2x10 cab. Look for something 350w+ for playing with a band without help... you need a lot more power with bass frequencies.
I'd stay away from cheap integrated combo bass amps. Waste of money and sound like shit at band volume.
All right just came back from the store... Picked up an extra set of D'Adarrio, a cheap winder, a set of Schaffer straplocks, a nylon strap and a Hercules stand.... Now I just need the guitar! lol
Also, it's almost difficult to find a regular boring strap... So many stupid designs... I don't want a "Police line, do not cross" yellow strap or a strap with a bunch of weed leaves.... ugh
Also, it's almost difficult to find a regular boring strap... So many stupid designs... I don't want a "Police line, do not cross" yellow strap or a strap with a bunch of weed leaves.... ugh
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So I'm buying another guitar I don't need.
The other day I was on reverb looking at old Ibanez guitars, and I saw a nice looking 80s Ibanez Roadstar II for only $400. Then I noticed the seller is in my city. Bookmarked it for later, figured I might send him a message about it. A day later I'm on craigslist and see the same guitar but its marked at $300. So I'll be picking up possibly tonight or tomorrow, lol.
The guitar is basically Ibanez's version of a strat, but after they were forced to stop making exact copies of Fenders and Gibsons.
The other day I was on reverb looking at old Ibanez guitars, and I saw a nice looking 80s Ibanez Roadstar II for only $400. Then I noticed the seller is in my city. Bookmarked it for later, figured I might send him a message about it. A day later I'm on craigslist and see the same guitar but its marked at $300. So I'll be picking up possibly tonight or tomorrow, lol.
The guitar is basically Ibanez's version of a strat, but after they were forced to stop making exact copies of Fenders and Gibsons.
This is a random shot in the dark, but I have an old Orville Les Paul (set neck, open book headstock, made in Japan) that's just sitting in my closet. It has no electronics, although it does have tuners and hardware. The frets on this thing are pretty damn fucked up and whoever owned this before me had some gnarly as fuck fingernails because the rosewood has some serious divots in it in the chording positions.
Anyone looking for a guitar project? Basically just looking for the cost of shipping it out someone in the US. I'll take some pictures of it later; it still looks okay, but definitely some road wear.
Anyone looking for a guitar project? Basically just looking for the cost of shipping it out someone in the US. I'll take some pictures of it later; it still looks okay, but definitely some road wear.
Thanks for the answer!
I thought about a Sansamp, but I'd like something that can but used without a PA. And if I really need to use a DI, every head seems to include one anyway.
The Portaflex series did catch my eye, especially the cabs. Is 350w really the minimum requirement for a band amp though? Reading around, it seems like the amount of speakers and their sensitivity seems to be the deciding factor. Otherwise I'm left a bit confused at the amount of 200w heads being praised as "loud enough".
Hah! I should have said in my experience :) It certainly depends what you play, but I've found the more aggression or musicians you add, the more power you need. Smaller amps would have cut it in the small duos and trios I have played in, but in my punk/experimental projects and the larger bands I've played been a part of, it's nice to have the extra headroom to make sure you can be heard. Sadly, it's not always feasible to ask people to turn down in those situations, and if you can't turn up you mightn't even be able to hear yourself.
You're absolutely right that speakers play a role, not only in loudness, but overall tone (and portability, as my back can attest). I think a ~350w and 4x10 cab is the "small" gig standard for that reason, but it could be total overkill for your needs. If you go down that road I seem to remember Avatar and TC Electronic made some lighter cabs with neo speakers... there are probably other options too.
I think the Ampeg could be great if you're already looking at them. Ampeg is one of the classic bass sounds IMO, and the weight of that series is pretty reasonable for the power. They seem to review pretty well too. See if you can try one in person, and turn it up a bit, it mightn't be as loud as you think. Good luck!
And here it is
Very nice man!! I'm a big fan of the 80s Ibanez Roadstar II series. It was the Golden Age of Ibanez when everything was built in Japan and built like tanks. That's why you see so many nice looking Roadstars still around while many other 80s guitars have been beat to shit. Great score!
So I've heard of two school of thoughts when it comes to changing strings on a guitar... Some people told me that you should always replace one string at a time to reduce the strain on the neck since it's "used" to be under tension while other just say to go crazy and cut all 6 strings and replace them all in one go.
Obviously I'm not talking about like... replacing one string one week and then the next one the next week or whatever... You obviously change all 6 at the same time but I'm talking about the actual operation of swapping the strings.
So which one is it?
Obviously I'm not talking about like... replacing one string one week and then the next one the next week or whatever... You obviously change all 6 at the same time but I'm talking about the actual operation of swapping the strings.
So which one is it?
For cleaning take all off. If you have a guitar where the bridge falls off if there is no tension on it do one after the other so it's a little easier. At the end of the day it doesn't matter.
Most of the time I take all strings off, but if you have a Floyd Rose tremolo replacing one string at a time can minimize the amount of tremolo adjustments after restringing.
Yeah ok makes sense.
I'm getting an Eclipse with a tailpiece bridge so shouldn't be a problem
If the same strings (brand and size) are used there should be no adjustments needed on a FR equipped guitar.
Right but it's a pain when you yank all the strings off cuz you'll be battling with the springs. Anyway that's been my experience since the 80s when they first came out.
No way around it, restringing a FR Guitar is a major pain in the ass. :D
Hey guys, I was replacing the strings on my old guitar and I tightened one of them too much and something snapped off. I don't really know what to order to fix it, any idea what the missing piece would be called? Here's a pic of what it looks like now:
If it helps, the guitar is supposedly a Schecter "Revenger" prototype. I've tried forever, but there's no information about it online.
If it helps, the guitar is supposedly a Schecter "Revenger" prototype. I've tried forever, but there's no information about it online.
I mean tuners are super replaceable but from the picture I can't tell if the entire bushing came out or just the nut/washer to lock it down.
It's probably going to be cheaper to buy a single tuning machine and replace the part off it rather than trying to track down the individual part. Although if it's just a tuner and nut that costs like nothing basically anywhere. The individual parts aren't too common because a tuning machine is like $10 a piece.
The bushing came out as well, I didn't know what it was called though haha
I would try calling Schecter customer service. It's a $10 part. Even less in reality.
I bought an entire set of Grover-like tuners for like 30 something on Stew Mac once so don't expect it to be expensive or hard to install.
When you cut them all off, make sure they have been loosened. But otherwise, yeah no harm in taking them all off. The longer the strings are off the longer it will take for everything to return to normal when they are back on, but a string change is no big deal.
Buzzing/rattling against a fret because action or relief is too low? If it mostly happens on upstrokes, are you lifting the string away from the guitar? That will excerbate/expose the problem.
Any good pick recommendation for a beginner? I imagine that this is something that is very much a personal choice but still... I'll be playing an LTD Eclipse with (most likely) 9-42s.
My friend gave me one of his Jazz III and it seems ok but again, I don't really have any experience so not much to compare on. Since this is my only pick I currently have and I'm getting my guitar tomorrow I should probably buy a pack just in case lol.
My friend gave me one of his Jazz III and it seems ok but again, I don't really have any experience so not much to compare on. Since this is my only pick I currently have and I'm getting my guitar tomorrow I should probably buy a pack just in case lol.
Use whatever. I use heavy jazz 3 max grips for electric, and planet waves black ice lights for acoustic. Don't like thick ass picks on acoustic. You might want to try some normal sized picks since the Jazz's are smaller. But, it really doesn't matter. Just personal preference.
latest acquisition. Paul Reed Smith Tremonti signature. This pic doesn't do this green flame justice. After being a huge Gibson Les Paul fanboy for the past decade, I have to say, these are goddamn amazing guitars.
Hollly shit that is a beauty. I fucking love PRSs so much. I have had my Singlecut for about 2 years now, and I still get excited every time I open the case and pick it up.
Nice! I used to have a '92 PRS Custom Ten Top Emerald Green but could never gel with it for decades. Sold it last year. Just can't really get into PRS but they are excellent instruments. I might get an SE or something one day just for kicks.
My dream guitar for many years was a wine red Les Paul. I owned a white Epiphone Les Paul Custom back in high school. Put some EMGs in it 'cause that's what Metallica does! Guitar was fine, and I liked the EMG 60 in the neck. The 81 in the bridge, though... not so much. Owned a Gibson Explorer for a hot minute. Thing was total trash. I owned either a Les Paul Traditional or Standard at some point. Now I forget which. Never did much for me. Then I bought a PRS Singlecut trem that popped up at sweetwater. It was relatively cheap, like $1,000 or something because it was blemished. It had a flaw in the finish literally the size of a pin head on the back. You would have absolutely never noticed had you not been told. I had never touched a PRS up until then. Got that thing and never went back to Gibson for electrics.
My friend is a Gibson guy. Has a couple of Les Pauls, a hollow body of some sort, a Les Paul double cut with P90s... and they sound so fucking good in his hands. Then I'll pick one up and feel like I'm playing with two left hands. They just do not click with me. I do love my J45 Rosewood, though. Thing has gotten better and better sounding as the years go by.
My friend is a Gibson guy. Has a couple of Les Pauls, a hollow body of some sort, a Les Paul double cut with P90s... and they sound so fucking good in his hands. Then I'll pick one up and feel like I'm playing with two left hands. They just do not click with me. I do love my J45 Rosewood, though. Thing has gotten better and better sounding as the years go by.
Got a Chinese fuzz-octave from AliExpress, 25 Euros, a joyo voodoo octave, sounds like hell, loving it.
Get a variety pack from Dunlop and try them all out.
It is often said that beginners should use thin picks. Can't really confirm that for myself. I quite quickly gravitated towards thick picks.
Pretty much what i was going to write, apart from a few random 1.2m and the odd 0.8 depending on the string gauge i mostly use Dunlop 1mm
The nut is loose. It shouldn't rotate. You can orient it in anyway you want that the wire/solder joints allow, but conventionally, down is the bridge pickup and up the neck.
So is that easily fixable?
To be clear, the actual metal ring is not moving, it's just the stick that I can move in all directions and it'S very loose
... that's odd. Normally if it is rotating then the nut will be rotating. My LP-style toggle switches can't (mechanically) move in any direction but the axis allowed by the rod that they're on, so rotation like you show is the whole switch rotating.
On a traditional LP style guitar there would be a plate behind the switch that you could remove and see what's happening.
On a traditional LP style guitar there would be a plate behind the switch that you could remove and see what's happening.
Yeah the switch itself appears to be sitting solidely in the guitar body but it's the mechanic inside the switch that is very loose and definitely not stuck to one axis like it should be.
I unscrewed the back plate but couldn't get it to open, I would need some kind of suction cup or something. I'll play more with it tonight after work.
In the meantime I'm writing a mail to the store. I bought it online and I'd really like to avoid to having to send it back.
I definitely bonded with this PRS quickly, but I still love my Gibson Les Pauls too. Their necks are just a LITTLE bit bigger which I got used to over the years. But the PRS is just so well made and sound fantastic. It's clear they have such a passion for their builds. I got all my Gibsons before they went to shit, two of my LPs are from 2007/2008 and are Custom Shop joints, so there's never been much hate towards them anyways, besides price, which again, when I bought was before Gibson skyrocketed their pricing too. I had always wanted a PRS, never even held one before pulling the trigger on this one, I got one of the 20% of Musician Friend emails and thought, if this applies to the Tremonti, I will buy it, and lo and behold, it applied! So between the coupon and having it shipped to a state with no taxes, I got a damn good deal on it!
I have an LTD EC-401, and the switch is rock solid. I don't think the difference in price to the EC-256 explains this, so I'd say it's definitely broken.
You can access the switch and its electronics from the backside. Maybe it's just a loose screw.
Yeah... I'm still waiting for an answer from the store but in the meantime I called a local repair dude that my friend knows just to have an idea and he charges 60$ CAN for parts and labors and like he said "I only use USA parts so it's probably better than what you have right now" lol (he's right obviously)...
So anyway... I don't want to pay that 60$ if I can avoid it obviously but it's not TOO bad as a worst case scenario.
And yeah I unscrewed the back plate to look at the switch but couldn't take it off lol... I have a iFixit kit at work so I'll take one of the suction cup thing home tonight
So I finally managed to open the panel on the back and took out the switch and it's most definitely broken. Basically looks like the little metal bar that is used as an axis of rotation for the three position stick snapped so the stick is moving freely in the cylinder.
Still no news from the store... I guess I won't get any until monday... This sucks...
Still no news from the store... I guess I won't get any until monday... This sucks...
My guess is it probably got knocked a bit in the box while shipping. Due to the price of the guitar I'm guessing it didn't come with a hard case. It should be a very easy fix for the guitar shop to do, and since its a brand new guitar, I imagine its covered by some kind of warranty. Even if its not covered for some unknown reason, switches are very cheap to replace.