haha I believe it is, amazing. It's either that one or an older version of it, the casing looks a bit different.
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The PC Builders Thread (aka I need a new PC)
- Thread starter Celcius
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Ooooo, for lots of cool things that most people will never use lol. Daisy chaining, connecting to two different networks,VMs, teaming to double bandwidth (though not as big a deal anymore since most NICs handle 1000Mbps full duplex on a single port nowadays which is fast enough for most LANs), or just to have a backup. It's for networking geeks.
My girlfriend has the AMD version of that. I thought it might be because I know Best Buy carries Asus computers. If that's it, good news is you probably have a standard board and case since Asus doesn't really mess around with custom/proprietary form factor stuff.
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Oh my brother said the only notable difference is that the motherboard is M11AD? If that's the case then I can get by with just a new fan and graphics card for it? I think we'll purchase another PC instead in the near future.
Thanks again for everything
Ah, ok. This is your board then:
It accepts standard power, and your board/case is Micro-ATX (might be flex-ATX, but close enough), so you should have no trouble putting in a new power supply and graphics card. You don't need to buy a new case unless you just want a nicer looking one with better airflow.
EDIT: Check the wattage on the power supply and also see if there is a brand and an "80+" rating. Might be able to get away with just using what you already have and getting a new video card only. The PSU in my girlfriend's PC was garbage, but since yours actually came with a video card they may have put something better in there.
It accepts standard power, and your board/case is Micro-ATX (might be flex-ATX, but close enough), so you should have no trouble putting in a new power supply and graphics card. You don't need to buy a new case unless you just want a nicer looking one with better airflow.
EDIT: Check the wattage on the power supply and also see if there is a brand and an "80+" rating. Might be able to get away with just using what you already have and getting a new video card only. The PSU in my girlfriend's PC was garbage, but since yours actually came with a video card they may have put something better in there.
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Been fairly absent from the thread lately as I've got about four PC builds I've finished since around November and have no other builds planned for the next six months, and there hasn't been a lot of hardware updates since Coffee Lake.
With that said, I'm excited that GPU prices are finally coming down a bit. It's great news for new builders especially. Also, Ryzen 2000 CPUs are out and that's really cool. I plan to update builds in the OP essentially swapping in the 2000 series chips and the new motherboards; don't get me wrong, the gen 1 Ryzen CPUs are great (I won't be upgrading my 1700), but they'll run out of stock soon enough anyway, so I might as well update the builds ahead of time.
As always, if anyone has suggestions to improve the OP builds, PM me!
With that said, I'm excited that GPU prices are finally coming down a bit. It's great news for new builders especially. Also, Ryzen 2000 CPUs are out and that's really cool. I plan to update builds in the OP essentially swapping in the 2000 series chips and the new motherboards; don't get me wrong, the gen 1 Ryzen CPUs are great (I won't be upgrading my 1700), but they'll run out of stock soon enough anyway, so I might as well update the builds ahead of time.
As always, if anyone has suggestions to improve the OP builds, PM me!
I bent one of the pins on my USB 3 header, with little screwdrivers I managed to unbend it enough so that my cable will still plug in, but the pin itself is still sort of bent. Is this going to be harmful to any of my devices I will connect? I think it's the pin for 5V power.
Hey guys. I just finished a new build and used my previous Windows 10 key but I didn't realise I have to deactivate it from my old machine before I can get it working on my new machine. Is there any way around this without booting my old machine up? Also, I removed the GPU from my old machine so if I were to boot it up would it just work without the GPU and switch to onboard graphics? So I can get the Windows key deactivated.
1. Not sure, perhaps there is a way when you go to your Microsoft account. You could try calling customer service. It also depends on whether you have an OEM key (i.e. non-transferable) or not.
2. If your CPU has onboard graphics it'll do it automatically, yeah. Just plug your display into your motherboard and it'll work.
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Nah. If it makes proper contact, nothing gets shorted and the USB port works, I'm sure it'll be fine.
Thanks! I had Windows 8.1 Home and got the free upgrade to 10. Probably easier to just boot my old machine back up than contact Customer Support tbh.
Here's something unfortunate I encountered today: Crucial SSD's can randomly freeze the OS completely with the event log message "A TCG Command has returned an error."
Apparently the OS installation forces the drive to "TCG Opal" mode even when such thing isn't supported. Fixing this requires you to PSID revert the SSD to ATA security mode when it's connected as an secondary drive, reinstall the OS and I guess block the mode switching during the reinstall. Seems to be a widely reported issue with various models https://forums.crucial.com/t5/Cruci...eze-A-TCG-Command-has-returned-an/td-p/181356
The Crucial line has been often mentioned as an possible alternative to Samsung, but I think this issue should be noted.
Apparently the OS installation forces the drive to "TCG Opal" mode even when such thing isn't supported. Fixing this requires you to PSID revert the SSD to ATA security mode when it's connected as an secondary drive, reinstall the OS and I guess block the mode switching during the reinstall. Seems to be a widely reported issue with various models https://forums.crucial.com/t5/Cruci...eze-A-TCG-Command-has-returned-an/td-p/181356
The Crucial line has been often mentioned as an possible alternative to Samsung, but I think this issue should be noted.
Hey guys!
I've slowly been transitioning over to PC gaming over the last few years and am ready to build my first beast. I've saved up a lot over the last few months and already started collecting parts that were either on sale or duiring pricing errors. Around December is when the GPU mining craze started getting bad and I've pretty much been waiting on that part...until today. I bought the Strix 1080ti at Walmart at MSRP which is insane and I still am speechless that I finally bought this damn thing today!
Anyway, I set up a PCPartpicker of all the parts I have currently, but really need some last minute advice on the case, cooling, and PSU I should look into getting. For the case, I had the NZXT S340 in mind, but I'm not sure if that'll give me enough room to fit everything in/make it easy for me to move out parts if I have to in the future. I would like to stay with a mid size case if possible. Thank you very much in advance!
I've slowly been transitioning over to PC gaming over the last few years and am ready to build my first beast. I've saved up a lot over the last few months and already started collecting parts that were either on sale or duiring pricing errors. Around December is when the GPU mining craze started getting bad and I've pretty much been waiting on that part...until today. I bought the Strix 1080ti at Walmart at MSRP which is insane and I still am speechless that I finally bought this damn thing today!
Anyway, I set up a PCPartpicker of all the parts I have currently, but really need some last minute advice on the case, cooling, and PSU I should look into getting. For the case, I had the NZXT S340 in mind, but I'm not sure if that'll give me enough room to fit everything in/make it easy for me to move out parts if I have to in the future. I would like to stay with a mid size case if possible. Thank you very much in advance!
I know this is mainly a PC building thread, but I was hoping I could get some advice on a laptop purchase.
I found someone willing to sell me a Lenovo u530 which has a gtx730m and an i7 for 200 bucks. I wanted to use it for light gaming like overwatch/fortnite/league and work.
Is this a good deal?
I found someone willing to sell me a Lenovo u530 which has a gtx730m and an i7 for 200 bucks. I wanted to use it for light gaming like overwatch/fortnite/league and work.
Is this a good deal?
I know next to nothing about building a PC, this would be my first so I've filled this out, hopefully someone can help
1. What's your budget?: Between $1000-$1500
2. What do you want to use the computer for?: Gaming, streaming (mostly console games via capture card) and a little bit of editing if possible.
3. How soon do you plan to purchase the parts and build it?: Saving up now, hoping to build by Summer.
4. Are you going to reuse any parts (upgrading) or are you building a completely new computer from scratch?: From scratch
5. Do you only need the computer itself or do you need accessories too such as a monitor, mouse, keyboard, and speakers?: The works, most likely.
6. Are you interested in overclocking? (Overclocking is running components such as the processor or videocard at a higher speed than they come from the factory. It can give additional performance but can come with consequences such as increased heat (requiring better cooling), higher power consumption, possibly more noise, and stress testing to ensure that the overclock is stable.): Probably not.
1. What's your budget?: Between $1000-$1500
2. What do you want to use the computer for?: Gaming, streaming (mostly console games via capture card) and a little bit of editing if possible.
3. How soon do you plan to purchase the parts and build it?: Saving up now, hoping to build by Summer.
4. Are you going to reuse any parts (upgrading) or are you building a completely new computer from scratch?: From scratch
5. Do you only need the computer itself or do you need accessories too such as a monitor, mouse, keyboard, and speakers?: The works, most likely.
6. Are you interested in overclocking? (Overclocking is running components such as the processor or videocard at a higher speed than they come from the factory. It can give additional performance but can come with consequences such as increased heat (requiring better cooling), higher power consumption, possibly more noise, and stress testing to ensure that the overclock is stable.): Probably not.
For RAM it's gonna be at least 64 because I'm working with a lot of sound libraries. I'm also unclear on how to maximize performance for working with synths since some of them can be CPU hogs. Ableton Live has an option to disable multicore usage, which is supposed to reduce strain, but I haven't noticed an appreciable difference in testing.
Decided to update my bios (asus rog strix x370 gaming-f mobo and bios version is 4009) and now I'm regretting it. I can have my ram run at 3200mhz (which it was doing already) but I cannot have my cpu (1700) overclocked otherwise it will not be able to wake up from sleep. It'll run totally fine and stable before going into sleep mode though, but it refuses to wake up.
Was previously on bios version 3203
Was previously on bios version 3203
No experience with optimizing for synths but as I mentioned earlier I think your system should feature a 7820x. Plenty of X299 mobos that support 64+gbs of RAM and then it's just a matter of choosing the memory, presumably something in the 3200mhz range or above. Corsair has been my go-to for a long time.
Assume you'll get a mid-range GPU and a 600w PSU should be plenty.
Couple of Dell Ultrasharp 27's should be good if you end up going with dual displays. The new ones feature the (almost) edge-to-edge display and are 2560x1440 - can find them for ~$380.
Looking to upgrade the RAM in my Ryzen 5 1400 prebuilt I had to get last month + upgrade the cooler to try and hit at least 3.8GHz. Is going for CL14 3200 really going to be a massive difference over CL16 3200?
As for the cooler - any recommendations for AM4? I had a 212+ on my old 3570k build, but kinda curious about the other options. Hearing that Noctuas are a lot easier to install? Would it be worth trying a water cooler? Ideally, I'm going to be using the came cooler when I upgrade to 7nm ryzen nedt year.
As for the cooler - any recommendations for AM4? I had a 212+ on my old 3570k build, but kinda curious about the other options. Hearing that Noctuas are a lot easier to install? Would it be worth trying a water cooler? Ideally, I'm going to be using the came cooler when I upgrade to 7nm ryzen nedt year.
Here's a build I put together that you might want to consider: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/kd4Rkd
-If you're planning on streaming, Ryzen is the way to go; don't bother with the X series since even if you aren't planning on overclocking them, the extra cost isn't worth it (plus overclocking is fairly easy if you do find out later you need some extra power from the CPU)
-The stock cooler that comes with the Ryzen is fine for non-OC cooling; given that your budget left little room for the build due to the additional monitor and other accessories, this is something that can be changed at a later date should you change your mind about overclocking
-While the stock cooler is fine, you'll want to use a quality thermal paste since the stock paste isn't great
-4TB will be enough to hold your games and video footage; you could opt for a RAID array with 2 2TB drives for better performance or for 4 1TB drives in RAID 5 but given your lack of interest in overclocking, i'm assuming you don't want to go through the task of setting up a RAID 0 or 5/6 array
-The HDD is designed for NAS storage but will work just fine in a regular PC
-The MX Master is a fantastic mouse; I personally use one and recommend it for both gaming and production i.e. video editing
-16GB is more than enough for gaming (for now), decent for more intensive activities like video editing; ideally you'd want the maximum amount your motherboard will allow (64GB) but you can always add in more when prices drop
-You didn't specify what resolution you wanted to play in so I assume you'll be fine at 1080p; the RX 560 is a decent card for that resolution but if you find a 1060 on sale (or even an older GTX 770 or 970), that would be the best purchase you can go with given how ludicrous GPU prices are at the moment
Only difference you'll see is in bench-marking. Real-world application will be imperceptible.
I'm thinking I'm going to pick up a G-Sync monitor with my new build, anyone have any suggestions for a better 27" one in the same price range than this Dell one?
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Any advice on this PSU?
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/find/cart.jsp
My PC won't be graphic intensive (RX 560) but I do plan to OC the cpu and memory.
Thanks
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/find/cart.jsp
My PC won't be graphic intensive (RX 560) but I do plan to OC the cpu and memory.
Thanks
You just posted the cart page, we can't see the actual PSU you're looking at.
Someone please help me finish this build. I was hoping to have everything fit in a NZXT S340 mid size case if possible. I really want to start building this thing by the end of the week.
Here are the parts I currently have. - https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Tdqcq4
Here are the parts I currently have. - https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Tdqcq4
Everything should fit just fine. But your list don't have a cpu cooler, you will need one.
Sorry! was on mobile and didn't notice. Here it is.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1361048-REG/evga_110_bq_0600_k1_bq_600w_power_supply.html
This is my core build so far (CPU still needs to be purchased)
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/pdC27W
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Right, I need a PSU, cooling, and a case. Was hoping to get assistance from folks on here to help me with those parts.
So, actually found a good deal on Team Dark Pro 3200/CL14 sticks while browsing ebay - grabbed them. Yay! Still have enough left to get that SSD too.
So I'm looking into getting a 27"1080p monitor for my pc (rx 580) & PS4 Pro. I'm looking at this monitor :
BenQ EW277HDR 27-inch Full HD HDR Eye-Care Monitor https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B074Z4CNFX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CXA3Ab2E135V0
Now I know this monitor won't have full hdr but I'm just looking to get the best image quality, would they hdr make games look worse? I haven't seen hdr used other than with still images so I'm not sure how it looks in motion. I don't need hdr but it's a bonus I guess, the other monitor I'm looking at is an Samsung or acer freesync monitor but I mainly game on PS4 Pro :
Samsung C27F390 27-Inch Curved LED Monitor - Black Gloss https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01DTLSOA4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_R1A3Ab747EFA7
Acer ED273 27-inch Full HD Curved 1800R Monitor (VA panel, FreeSync, 4ms, ZeroFrame, HDMI, DVI) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01N1SMQ76/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Y7A3AbWC83G80
BenQ EW277HDR 27-inch Full HD HDR Eye-Care Monitor https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B074Z4CNFX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CXA3Ab2E135V0
Now I know this monitor won't have full hdr but I'm just looking to get the best image quality, would they hdr make games look worse? I haven't seen hdr used other than with still images so I'm not sure how it looks in motion. I don't need hdr but it's a bonus I guess, the other monitor I'm looking at is an Samsung or acer freesync monitor but I mainly game on PS4 Pro :
Samsung C27F390 27-Inch Curved LED Monitor - Black Gloss https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01DTLSOA4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_R1A3Ab747EFA7
Acer ED273 27-inch Full HD Curved 1800R Monitor (VA panel, FreeSync, 4ms, ZeroFrame, HDMI, DVI) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01N1SMQ76/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Y7A3AbWC83G80
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hi
with $900 , what's the best gaming pc specs i can afford?
excluding monitor, accessories and case
preferred intel\nvidia than amd\radeon combos
with $900 , what's the best gaming pc specs i can afford?
excluding monitor, accessories and case
preferred intel\nvidia than amd\radeon combos
At those reqs I'd recommend a ryzen 2600/gtx 1060 combo.
At $900 you can probably squeeze in an i5-8400 with a B360 board, 16GB of memory, a 1060 6GB, 250GB SSD, 1TB HDD, and a decent power supply. Depending on what you plan to use it for you might find more value in a Ryzen chip, but you specifically mentioned that you prefer Intel.
it's for a friend and he isn't familiar with amd, so it's better to stick with what he knows than blaming me for any thing ^^"
what's the recommended power supply voltage ?
what's the recommended power supply voltage ?
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Nothing overkill but solid parts in each category I guess?
I have a Corsair h100i gtx cooler that supports two 120mm fans. The current fan noise is driving me crazy and begs for replacements. Does anyone have recommendations for extremely quiet replacement fans?
Hey guys, just wanted to start doing a little research for my next PC build.
4 years ago I built a PC based on the recommendations that people on neogaf gave me. It was fantastic and served my purposes well. Due to life situations changing, I couldn't have that big ole beast of a machine around anymore. Any time I wanted to move I needed to lug that thing around and it just isn't practical for where I am in my life right now, so I sold it.
I would still like to have a PC around just to play league of legends, which is not a very demanding game but my laptop runs a little to hot while I'm playing for me to feel comfortable. I'd really like to build a small, lightweight PC that I can play league of legends on, and that's about it. Would anyone be able to point me in the right direction for building something like that? Thanks in advance!
4 years ago I built a PC based on the recommendations that people on neogaf gave me. It was fantastic and served my purposes well. Due to life situations changing, I couldn't have that big ole beast of a machine around anymore. Any time I wanted to move I needed to lug that thing around and it just isn't practical for where I am in my life right now, so I sold it.
I would still like to have a PC around just to play league of legends, which is not a very demanding game but my laptop runs a little to hot while I'm playing for me to feel comfortable. I'd really like to build a small, lightweight PC that I can play league of legends on, and that's about it. Would anyone be able to point me in the right direction for building something like that? Thanks in advance!
If you build your PC in PCPartPicker.com it'll give you an estimated wattage. For what it looks like yourey building, idI say a 500-550w power supply would be more than enough. Sample builds are in the OP by the way.
Any budget in mind? You can look at the low to mid tier builds in the OP but use a mITX motherboard instead and an appropriate case and you'd be pretty set.
$500, a compact PC, and LoL is your main game? I'd say you get a Ryzen 2400G. It's a 4-core, 8-thread CPU with very good (for being integrated) integrated graphics roughly comparable to a GT 1030. This is a video of a 2400G in-action: https://youtu.be/6EOGac8JeKw
Something like this:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2400G 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor ($162.79 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: *MSI - B350M GAMING PRO Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($60.88 @ OutletPC)
Memory: *ADATA - XPG GAMMIX D10 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($85.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: *Kingston - A400 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($36.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($43.85 @ OutletPC)
Case: *Rosewill - FBM-X1 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($26.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: *EVGA - BQ 500W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($39.99 @ B&H)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($89.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $547.37
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-04-23 20:53 EDT-0400
Hey folks,
I am having trouble with my PC and was hoping I could get some advice.
My PC (Windows 10) froze tonight when I was ejecting a USB stick after doing some work. After about 5 minutes I got a blue screen with the error "unexpected store exception". My computer shut off after that. I went to turn it back on and go the "Reboot and select proper boot device" screen. I am able to boot into my BIOS just fine, but cannot boot into safe mode (when I tried to do that through the console off my USB boot drive I get "The boot configuration data store could not be opened"). In the BIOS (Gigabyte) under Boot Option Priorities my #1 Boot Option says "P4: ADATA SU800" (aka my only drive a ~500GB SSD) and the #2 Boot Option says "Windows Boot Manager (P4: ADATA SU800)". When I go to Boot Override and force select the P4: ADATA SU800 it goes to the select proper boot device screen. Also, when I go into my USB boot device where I can reinstall windows my SSD does show up and appears to have the right amount of space/free space.
It seems pretty obvious something is up with either the SSD or Windows booting into the SSD. Is there a way to test if the SSD is broken vs. Windows is messing up somewhere? Or anything else I should try?
I am having trouble with my PC and was hoping I could get some advice.
My PC (Windows 10) froze tonight when I was ejecting a USB stick after doing some work. After about 5 minutes I got a blue screen with the error "unexpected store exception". My computer shut off after that. I went to turn it back on and go the "Reboot and select proper boot device" screen. I am able to boot into my BIOS just fine, but cannot boot into safe mode (when I tried to do that through the console off my USB boot drive I get "The boot configuration data store could not be opened"). In the BIOS (Gigabyte) under Boot Option Priorities my #1 Boot Option says "P4: ADATA SU800" (aka my only drive a ~500GB SSD) and the #2 Boot Option says "Windows Boot Manager (P4: ADATA SU800)". When I go to Boot Override and force select the P4: ADATA SU800 it goes to the select proper boot device screen. Also, when I go into my USB boot device where I can reinstall windows my SSD does show up and appears to have the right amount of space/free space.
It seems pretty obvious something is up with either the SSD or Windows booting into the SSD. Is there a way to test if the SSD is broken vs. Windows is messing up somewhere? Or anything else I should try?
Sorry for the double post, just want to get all my bases covered here.
In case I do want to occasionally play a more demanding game, what gpu/cpu combo would you recommend? If it's more expensive that's ok, I just want to see what my options would be.
I just replaced my brother's fans with Corsair ML120 (I think it is what the newest H150i PRO Corsairs radiator comes with now, which are aiming to be quieter than the previous generation) and they are good but only quiet as long as you keep them under 1000rpm (they can go up to 2200rpm) they are a good option in case you want something that can be quiet most of the time but have the option to go really fast in case it is needed.
The two brands that have fame for being quiet are Noctua and be Quiet. In your case that would mean the Noctua NF-F12 PWM and be quiet! BL064 Silent Wings 3.
I would say go for the Noctua, and if you don't like the color of the vanilla ones, then there's the Noctua NF-F12 PWM chromax. Which is all black and with rubber tips of the color of your choice
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Per a discussion with Celcius, the PC Builders Thread will now be in the Video Games section to better facilitate its usage as a resource thread and cut down on PC building related threads made in the Video Games section. If you any questions about this decision, please reach out to me directly. Thanks.
W10 does have a startup repair tool if the problem is Windows itself. Should probably look into that and exhaust all options before writing off the SSD.
OP
OP
The Dell S2716DGR is a popular monitor within it's price range but actually you can get it even cheaper due to it currently being on sale at BestBuy for $400: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/dell-27-led-qhd-gsync-monitor-black/5293502.p?skuId=5293502
If you couldn't get it for the sale price and had to pay msrp then you may want to consider the Acer Predator XB271HU instead (similar specs but overclockable to 165hz): https://www.amazon.com/Acer-Predato...0&sr=8-1&keywords=acer+predator+monitor+gsync
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