Samsung KS8000 / KS7000 |OT| Because crossing the Atlantic Ocean adds 1000 KS.

Dr. Zoidberg said:

Is this on HDR, SDR, or both?

What is your backlight setting?

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Both, in this case it was in-game Kingdom Come: Deliverance as well as just on the PS4 Pro dashboard. My backlight setting is 20 (maxed).

New Fang said:

Why are you watching anything in standard mode? Just use movie or game mode. That's it.

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Yeah, even Dynamic doesn't have the issue, guess I'll just stay away from Standard entirely. What's odd is I can't set it to Game mode, apparently because my input is PC and not Game Console? I have every input going to my AV receiver then over HDMI 4 to my TV so maybe that is getting in the way?

surr said:

So I don't really follow TV's that closely. Bought a KS8000 and am loving it based on recommendations from you guys and the old site. How is TV tech looking nowadays? I got an Apple TV 4K and I feel like I'm missing out since I don't have Dolby Vision but I don't think I'd want to get another TV so soon anyway.

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You shouldn't be missing anything on the Apple 4K as it also converts the signal to HDR10. Just make sure under setting that you have your Apple TV set to 4K HDR and then I think the other setting is match content output. All of the movies that show Dolby Vision come up as HDR for me as well as the Apple menus.

Jim said:

I love the set, but man is WiFi chipset a piece of crap. No matter which router brand, security, dns settings I try (or features on the set I enable/alter), it still randomly loses connection to the router (even though the TV states "connected") after turning the TV off for a while. It cleared up at one point and the soft reboot with the power button on the remote used to fix it, but the issue has returned. I just bought a WiFi Ethernet adapter and hopefully it'll be more stable.

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Quoting myself, but using the WiFi - Ethernet adapter instead of the built in WiFi is like night and day in terms of network stability on my set. Everything just works now and I definitely see greater/more consistent speeds and near instant 4K resolution streaming on YouTube and Amazon Prime. So far so good. Well worth the $25.

Every time I see this thread I get a little happy that the HDR game mode fix is out, and then I quickly realize that it is actually never coming out.

Either way, this TV is amazing. Glad I picked it up when it was available.

BigWeather said:

Both, in this case it was in-game Kingdom Come: Deliverance as well as just on the PS4 Pro dashboard. My backlight setting is 20 (maxed)...Yeah, even Dynamic doesn't have the issue, guess I'll just stay away from Standard entirely.

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I notice that Standard has the little "Energy Star" logo next to it in the list, so maybe that mode has some baked in energy-saving features that can't be disabled, hence the dimming. With the backlight maxed you're also maxing out the power draw. I would just avoid Standard as you say.

BigWeather said:

What's odd is I can't set it to Game mode, apparently because my input is PC and not Game Console? I have every input going to my AV receiver then over HDMI 4 to my TV so maybe that is getting in the way?

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Yes, if your input has the PC name/logo then it's in PC mode and game mode is locked out, but the input lag in that mode is not too bad. You can rename the input to something else in order to re-gain access to game mode if you want to shave off just a little more lag but it probably won't be that noticeable.

Is this the best released 4K set? Just asking because it has its own dedicated thread while most other TV sets get discussed in the main TV thread. If it's that good it might be worth tracking one down to replace my JS9000 or is a JS9000 better?

stone616 said:

Is this the best released 4K set? Just asking because it has its own dedicated thread while most other TV sets get discussed in the main TV thread. If it's that good it might be worth tracking one down to replace my JS9000 or is a JS9000 better?

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Back in 2016, for the price/inout lag/HDR implementation it was a great 4K TV and in many respects it still is. The UI imho is complete shit and full of jank but the picture quality is superb when compared to other sets in its class.

I own the KS9000 and am very happy with my purchase. But to answer your question, at this point in time there are tv sets that surpass the KS8000/9000 such as the Sony X930e or the X900e etc. Unless you can get a 65KS8000 for sub $1000 then I'd get something else.

Dr. Zoidberg said:

I notice that Standard has the little "Energy Star" logo next to it in the list, so maybe that mode has some baked in energy-saving features that can't be disabled, hence the dimming. With the backlight maxed you're also maxing out the power draw. I would just avoid Standard as you say.

Yes, if your input has the PC name/logo then it's in PC mode and game mode is locked out, but the input lag in that mode is not too bad. You can rename the input to something else in order to re-gain access to game mode if you want to shave off just a little more lag but it probably won't be that noticeable.

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Ah, that makes sense that Standard, what with the logo and all, could have some built-in energy savings stuff that even going through the menu and shutting off all the Eco features can't suppress. As for PC vs. some other input that would allow me to use Game mode, I'm OK I think -- not like I'm playing twitchy / first-person shooter stuff where input lag is a deal breaker. Thanks a ton for the help, very much appreciated!

I see lots of calibration settings for this TV to set Sharpness to 0 and I think that might be wrong. On Samsung and Sony, 50% is no sharpness added. Lowering it to 0 is softening the picture and causing you to lose detail. On other brands, 0 is the default however.

Also, the Movie preset has a local dimming issue and if you pay close attention, you can see the picture dim and brighten slightly when watching 4k/HDR scenes even with all Eco settings off. On Standard mode, this doesn't happen.

dcx4610 said:

I see lots of calibration settings for this TV to set Sharpness to 0 and I think that might be wrong. On Samsung and Sony, 50% is no sharpness added. Lowering it to 0 is softening the picture and causing you to lose detail. On other brands, 0 is the default however.

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On the KS8000, 50 is no sharpness added in PC mode only. In non-PC modes, 50 is most definitely adding sharpness as there are obvious sharpening artifacts visible around text, animated characters, etc. Some people claim that 0 is the correct setting for all the other modes, but many swear that there is softening being applied. As a result, somewhere between 10-20 has been the general consensus as to where to leave sharpness. Around 15 you can get a decently sharp image with very few artifacts.

Dr. Zoidberg said:

On the KS8000, 50 is no sharpness added in PC mode only. In non-PC modes, 50 is most definitely adding sharpness as there are obvious sharpening artifacts visible around text, animated characters, etc. Some people claim that 0 is the correct setting for all the other modes, but many swear that there is softening being applied. As a result, somewhere between 10-20 has been the general consensus as to where to leave sharpness. Around 15 you can get a decently sharp image with very few artifacts.

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This. 15 is definitely the sweet spot on console for me

noomi said:

Every time I see this thread I get a little happy that the HDR game mode fix is out, and then I quickly realize that it is actually never coming out.

Either way, this TV is amazing. Glad I picked it up when it was available.

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Rudy at AVS says the hdr game mode change will be in the next firmware update, currently schedules for April.

But who knows.

Aiii said:

Let's not give Rudy a platform for his nonsense.

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Hes been right on almost everything except this.

The reason we didnt get this in November was necause Korea wouldnt allow this fix until all the bugs and fixes were finished.

Supposedly.

LanceX2 said:

Hes been right on almost everything except this.

The reason we didnt get this in November was necause Korea wouldnt allow this fix until all the bugs and fixes were finished.

Supposedly.

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What "all the bugs"? They always have bugs anyhow and it never stopped them before.... I hate the fact that my older Samsung 4k TV still gets regular FW updates but they cant fucking fix one of the biggest features for this TV.....jesus christ wake the fuck up samsung

VincentMatts said:

What "all the bugs"? They always have bugs anyhow and it never stopped them before.... I hate the fact that my older Samsung 4k TV still gets regular FW updates but they cant fucking fix one of the biggest features for this TV.....jesus christ wake the fuck up samsung

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Korea is treating this game mode change as an enhancement. They dont believe it was wrong from the get go. So they dont really care. April is their scheduled firmware for TVs even though theyve had the game mode fix for monthsnow

I have connected Samsung HW-K460 soundbar and subwoofer with SW-A8000S rear speakers to my KS80000. Connection is via HDMI to ARC port. With Nintendo Switch, PS3 and TVs built in apps this setup works great. However when using with my PC through GTX1070 HDMI port soundbars front speakers and Subwoofer will not output any sound.


When asking solution for this problem earlier I learned that HDMI connection will not enable surround sound in Windows 10 so I bought this USB sound card http://www.terratec.net/details.php?artnr=10715#.WqT39OjFJnk


I connected my setup now with optical cable to this sound card but problem still persists. Any ideas how I could tackle this problem?

Saw this being announced yesterday during the Inside Xbox stream and think it's really cool of MS and Xbox to have this as feature. As someone who uses streaming services on his Xbox and I have my set top box pass through it as well it comes in handy. Hopefully my KS9000 will support this feature.

What am I talking about? Talking about the low latency mode on Xbox which will automatically turn on game mode when playing a game and automatically disable it when watching Netflix/tv.
Engadget wrote an article on the feature.

I used HCFR and my ColorMunki to calibrate my 55" KS8000 (type AA02) again last week now that I've had a year of experience wrangling with the calibration workflow and process, and am finally totally pleased with it compared to my Panasonic plasma for "SDR." Mine was indeed off out of the box even in its most accurate mode, Movie mode. It went from blah/bland to spectacular looking :-p. As an example, it was only getting 88% sRGB coverage even though it's capable of 100%. The plasma gets 98% out of the box. Stuff like that. Whatever specs Rtings.com measured in their review of the 65" don't necessarily apply to the 55", at least the one I got.

I'm having problems with 5.1 surround sound.

I plug all of my devices into the one connect box. Then I plug an optical cable into the one connect box too. When I set the KS8000's audio output to optical, only my front left, right, center, and subwoofer work. The back left and right channels do not work.

Any suggestions?

Carnby said:

I'm having problems with 5.1 surround sound.

I plug all of my devices into the one connect box. Then I plug an optical cable into the one connect box too. When I set the KS8000's audio output to optical, only my front left, right, center, and subwoofer work. The back left and right channels do not work.

Any suggestions?

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Check that under the expert settings for sound that you have it set to either Dolby or DTS and not PCM. The PCM mode is only 2 channel PCM.

So has it been confirmed that this TV wont get the 2.1 hdmi updates? I was holding out hope cause of the fact that the HDMI ports are in the One Connect thing and not the actual tv. But im not getting my hopes up.

Anyone have their cable box mini menu disappear?

With my Fios box connected, I used to have a little mini menu that popped up from the bottom bar that included other commands not present on the remote (Menu, Guide, DVR, etc). Allowed me to actually use this as a "one" remote, now I need my cable box remote again.

It's recently disappeared and I can't get it back-- even tried to do the Start Setup again.

VincentMatts said:

So has it been confirmed that this TV wont get the 2.1 hdmi updates? I was holding out hope cause of the fact that the HDMI ports are in the One Connect thing and not the actual tv. But im not getting my hopes up.

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Who said it won't get 2.1?

Chippy13 said:

Check that under the expert settings for sound that you have it set to either Dolby or DTS and not PCM. The PCM mode is only 2 channel PCM.

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Thank you. I will try this out.

Antsa said:

When asking solution for this problem earlier I learned that HDMI connection will not enable surround sound in Windows 10 so I bought this USB sound card http://www.terratec.net/details.php?artnr=10715#.WqT39OjFJnk
I connected my setup now with optical cable to this sound card but problem still persists. Any ideas how I could tackle this problem?

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Let me preface this by saying that I am no expert in these matters.

HDMI will absolutely enable surround sound in Windows 10. However, it will be linear uncompressed PCM 7.1 multi-channel sound, and I suspect your TV will not pass it through to your sound bar except as stereo. But the 7.1 surround works fine with a dedicated receiver. I'm guessing the reason they told you to get a sound card is because it can be told to output standard Dolby Digital compressed bitstream which the Soundbar can use. On my Soundblaster Z, you can turn on encouding for Dolby Digital or DTS. This is not on by default, so the card may still be outputting PCM over optical. I'm not familiar with your card, but you should look for a way to turn on DD 5.1 (AC3) bitstream encoding. Then your soundbar will interpret it just like a DVD player or other DD source. You'll need to switch your soundbar over to the optical input, and finally, you will want to go into the Nvidia control panel and disable digital audio out on your video card so the sound card can take over the sound duties on your PC.

Imitation Of Life said:

Who said it won't get 2.1?

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No one yet, but considering we might not even get that HDR fix im not holding any hope for HDMI 2.1

Chippy13 said:

Check that under the expert settings for sound that you have it set to either Dolby or DTS and not PCM. The PCM mode is only 2 channel PCM.

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I tried your advice and it worked! Thank you again!

Carnby said:

I tried your advice and it worked! Thank you again!

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No problem. I just spent 3 hours the other day trying to get ARC to work again on this tv and went through every sound setting. It just randomly stopped working for no reason. Only way I could get it to work again was to unplug the power from every device that is hooked up to the tv and my receiver and leave them for 2 minutes. Plugged everything back in and it magically worked again.

Imitation Of Life said:

Who said it won't get 2.1?

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This TV is EOL for Samsung

Chippy13 said:

No problem. I just spent 3 hours the other day trying to get ARC to work again on this tv and went through every sound setting. It just randomly stopped working for no reason. Only way I could get it to work again was to unplug the power from every device that is hooked up to the tv and my receiver and leave them for 2 minutes. Plugged everything back in and it magically worked again.

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I'm not sure if you also unplugged the TV itself but next time just try unplugging the TV's power cord for a minute and then plug it back in. This is a common issue and that usually fixes ARC (for a while). If you can switch to using an optical cable with your sound device, that is a more permanent fix. There is no difference in quality between optical and ARC.

lunch_box said:

Is it still worth picking one of these up? (Specifically 49ks7000)
I have been offered a Mint refurb for a good price and want it to just play my one x and pro on? Won't be used as a main tv or anything!

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The TV performs well but just be aware that, as of this time, in Game Mode the TV does not switch settings automatically when you play HDR games, so you'll be doing a lot of fiddling in the settings menu whenever you go between HDR games and regular (SDR) ones. Rumors have said there is a fix in the works but with every passing week that seems less and less likely so I wouldn't count on it.

Is it still worth picking one of these up? (Specifically 49ks7000)

I have been offered a Mint refurb for a good price and want it to just play my one x and pro on? Won't be used as a main tv or anything!

Thanks

Dr. Zoidberg said:

I'm not sure if you also unplugged the TV itself but next time just try unplugging the TV's power cord for a minute and then plug it back in. This is a common issue and that usually fixes ARC (for a while). If you can switch to using an optical cable with your sound device, that is a more permanent fix. There is no difference in quality between optical and ARC.

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Yeah, I tried that first with no luck, then tried doing the same with the receiver, then reset all settings on the tv, then the receiver, gave up used optical, came back to it the next day and unplugged everything at once including the UPS. Then it started working again. My receiver could see the tv the entire time, they just wouldn't talk with each other properly.

cyenz said:

This TV is EOL for Samsung

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Not sure. I think it's in Samsung's interest to push HDR10+ as much as they can. But it might not be possible for some TV's. We'll see.

mario_O said:

Not sure. I think it's in Samsung's interest to push HDR10+ as much as they can. But it might not be possible for some TV's. We'll see.

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They want us to buy newer sets, not even HLG on the bbc app got updated unlike other 2016 sets from other brands like panasonic or lg. Even thought the KS7000 was very good for 2016 (even better than most of 2017 Samsung models) the software support for this TV was terrible. I will avoid Samsung on my next TV unless its an amazing value.

mario_O said:

Not sure. I think it's in Samsung's interest to push HDR10+ as much as they can. But it might not be possible for some TV's. We'll see.

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cyenz said:

They want us to buy newer sets, not even HLG on the bbc app got updated unlike other 2016 sets from other brands like panasonic or lg. Even thought the KS7000 was very good for 2016 (even better than most of 2017 Samsung models) the software support for this TV was terrible. I will avoid Samsung on my next TV unless its an amazing value.

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This TV does have HDR10, its just broken. They should at least fix their shit.

Goose Se7en said:

Saw this being announced yesterday during the Inside Xbox stream and think it's really cool of MS and Xbox to have this as feature. As someone who uses streaming services on his Xbox and I have my set top box pass through it as well it comes in handy. Hopefully my KS9000 will support this feature.

What am I talking about? Talking about the low latency mode on Xbox which will automatically turn on game mode when playing a game and automatically disable it when watching Netflix/tv.
Engadget wrote an article on the feature.

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During Xbox Insider they specifically said this was an HDMI 2.1 feature and the first Samsung sets are releasing this year with that enabled. I believe HDMI 2.1 is a hardware change, not just software and would require replacement of the OneConnect box but as other members have stated, I agree that Samsung likely views this set as EOL.

UCFJake said:

During Xbox Insider they specifically said this was an HDMI 2.1 feature and the first Samsung sets are releasing this year with that enabled. I believe HDMI 2.1 is a hardware change, not just software and would require replacement of the OneConnect box but as other members have stated, I agree that Samsung likely views this set as EOL.

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Yes it will need new HDMIs for older TVs is what i understood. Id totally buy a new One Connect if they supported that.

UCFJake said:

During Xbox Insider they specifically said this was an HDMI 2.1 feature and the first Samsung sets are releasing this year with that enabled. I believe HDMI 2.1 is a hardware change, not just software and would require replacement of the OneConnect box but as other members have stated, I agree that Samsung likely views this set as EOL.

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Thanks for this response, I completely missed that tidbit about this being an HDMI 2.1 spec thing.

Goose Se7en said:

Thanks for this response, I completely missed that tidbit about this being an HDMI 2.1 spec thing.

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Cheers! I was super hyped when I saw the recap article but then watched the actual show and was disappointed to hear that news.

I can't seem to get the right settings down for the Switch. Things look overblown on Limited or Full RGB, with Full having stronger colors, but the closer you get to whites, things just look like overexposed.

I have consoles going to a AVR then to TV, the switch HDMI port is on the HDCP 2.2 port and I'm thinking of moving it over to a non HDCP port later today. I had issues with the cablebox at this port, as there was no sound coming out, maybe this is also causing some color/white balance issue as well.

Anyone have an overexposed look for Switch?

AngelOFDeath said:

I can't seem to get the right settings down for the Switch. Things look overblown on Limited or Full RGB, with Full having stronger colors, but the closer you get to whites, things just look like overexposed.

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The Limited/Full RGB setting is usually not something you would adjust to see which one looks better. You pick one and you make sure the TV's HDMI Black Level setting matches it, then afterwards adjust the other settings to suit your taste. If Switch is on limited, TV's HDMI Black Level should be on LOW, if Switch is on Full, then TV's HDMI Black level is on NORMAL. There is also an AUTO setting on the TV but in my experience it can't be trusted. Just pick the pair of settings you want and stick with it. If you're not sharing that TV input with other devices, then I'd go with FULL(Switch)/NORMAL(TV), but in practice if both ends are set correctly you won't notice much difference. It's basically just telling the TV and device how RGB is encoded. If you have the settings mismatched, then it will usually crush detail on the blacks or whites.

As for the overblown look, I would definitely look into reducing your contrast setting. I keep mine around 90-92. Some places online say to max it to 100 but on my KS8000 that is definitely crushing whites.

So I want to turn the auto HDMI toggling to newly activated sources off. On GAF I found these instructions:

HDMI AUTO DETECT TOGGLE

The HDMI Auto Detect feature can be turned off on Samsung 2016/2017 TVs using the remote control by pressing a certain key sequence (either IR or Bluetooth remote works).

1. Make sure TV is updated to latest firmware version
2. Switch TV to TV source – HDMI may not work with BT Smart remotes. TV source works with either remote
3. Using IR Remote: Mute + 7 + 2 + 9 + Exit
4. Using Smart Control: Mute + Vol Down + Ch Down + Mute

PLEASE NOTE: TV does not display any messages after you press the above key combination. This function is a toggle. So if you want to turn HDMI Auto Detect on again, press the same key sequence.

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Where is the mute button the smart remote?

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Imp the Dimp said:

Where is the mute button the smart remote?

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Aiii said:

Press down on volume.

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Or 'in'. Think L3 on a dualshock.

I was wondering when using a US Spec KS8000 and a ps4 pro do you force full rbg or limited with the PS settings?

valentine said:

I was wondering when using a US Spec KS8000 and a ps4 pro do you force full rbg or limited with the PS settings?

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As long as the PS4 and TV's HDMI Black Level setting agree, either setting is fine. If PS4 is Full, then TV should be set to Normal. If PS4 is limited, TV should be set to Low.

Dr. Zoidberg said:

As long as the PS4 and TV's HDMI Black Level setting agree, either setting is fine. If PS4 is Full, then TV should be set to Normal. If PS4 is limited, TV should be set to Low.

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sounds good . Thanks for the reply

I swear. We better get the game mode fix

Why is backlight always supposed to be at 20 for HDR? I feel sometimes 15 or lower is bright enough