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Lol! So my Aunt likes to sleep with the TV on. 2 previous TV's died because of that. The latest TV the backlight is just gone. It powers on but you can barely see a picture. I'd like for her to get a TV where this wouldn't happen.
Anybody know what the X950H is supposed to have over the G. It seems like a few places have it for sale right now.
Enjoy it! I picked up a C8 last year and it feels like the biggest step up in terms of picture quality to me since the original jump to HD. It's an incredible tv.
I actually have the C8 lol but I'm kicking it out the game room to the bedroom. The wife loves that tv though that's the only way I got to buy it lol
Ha yeah, so you won't notice the picture quality upgrade as it's largely the same, but 2.1 bandwidth baby!
Continuing this saga: finally got the TV a week and a half after my first date. Had a delivery window of 9am-12pm and it showed up at 245pm. Called up amazon again and they threw me 100 bucks and upped my discount to 20% making me the owner of the cheapest 65 B9 on amazon. Hell of a go but boy is it a pretty TV now that I've got it. Hating not having a HBO app though. Gotta figure that out.
That mode is extremely inaccurate. Has bias towards Blue in GS and color temp is wrong as well. If he wants accuracy Cinema Home is not going to give it to him.
Unless you are planning to play the same game exclusively on it for the next two years- yes, you're probably being silly.
Yes you are. At first I was apprehensive of burn-in but as long as you don't just leave it sitting still for hours you are fine. Just use it like a normal TV and don't worry.
Yes, that's silly. Just switch up your content normally, and you'll have nothing to worry about.
I think it's just the experience I had with my Panasonic vt65 watching about 8 hours of sports left the channel dog burned in. And the c9 is so good picture wise while watching movies I don't want to spoil it, but I really should just use the tv instead of worrying as I'm likely to get a new tv within three years anyways.
Doesn't the C9 have a logo luminance option thing, though? If you're so worried, you can turn that on. It detects channel logos and other non-moving parts of the image and dims it.
I've never had a problem with any of my OLEDs, for what it's worth. I've had several, and I watch a lot of sports and play PS4 games daily. And the C9 is supposed to be even better at preventing burn-in than the models I've had/have.
Yeah I have it on high I think, I guess the c9s haven't been out a year yet so we don't know how good these new measures are, fingers crossed though.
not yet, but I would look at the 2019 sets launch prices for reference and assume they will be the same.
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LG’s 2019 OLED TV lineup with AirPlay 2 will hit stores starting in April
Basically the same prices as last year’s TVs — now with more features.
www.theverge.com
When my C9 is on and I power on the Xbox One, it should automatically switch to that input shouldn't it? But it doesn't. It just stays at HDMI3 or anything else. How I change this?
I could swear I had it working like this on my previous sets, Q9FN, Sony 930e, Hmmm. Maybe I'm misremembering then.
You can it up under device control via the IR blaster
Not sure what IR blaster means, but when I get home I'm sure I'll figure it out. Thanks!
not yet, but I would look at the 2019 sets launch prices for reference and assume they will be the same.
LG’s 2019 OLED TV lineup with AirPlay 2 will hit stores starting in April
Basically the same prices as last year’s TVs — now with more features.
Thanks.
Hopefully they surprise us and come cheaper than that but I think you'll be correct.
Cinema home and technicolor modes are extremely accurate. Also to get the best HDR you have to use Cinema home. Please stop spreading misinformation.
I'm a ISF Level III calibrator. I just measured a C9 and calibrated one last week. You are the one that is incorrect and spreading misinformation.
Cinema Home is inaccurate. Period.
Actually measure it and then get back to me. Cinema is accurate. Technicolor is ok if you like their white point. Cinema home is inaccurate.
If you want to discuss you can contact me by going to the ISF website imagingscience.com, going to dealers, searching 92126. I will be the first one who comes up.
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A bit late but... maybe she can always use the "switch off after n hours of inactivity" option to make sure it doesn't run overnight?
What brand/models does she have? It might be an overall TV build quality issue, but sometimes it's really hard to guarantee any tv to keep working after being forced to run extended hours very often.
If im not mistaken there arent any av recievers with hdmi 2.1. There are rumors that yamaha will reveal new sets soon. But its not sure if its full fat 2.1 or 2.1 features on 2.0b.
Basically whats happening in the tv space(severe lack of hdmi 2.1 on televisions even the ones that are releasing this year) is basically x3 in the av space.
Yeah, just wondering if it's worth waiting for 2.1 receivers. Or if the workaround I suggested would be ok for the most part.
Looking into it, it seems like the C9 still can't pass uncompressed audio over eARC but it will get the ability to pass 5.1 or 7.1 PCM with an update in the spring. Still no full ATMOS/DTS:X over eARC though. The CX will be the same. They're both possible in the eARC spec but no idea why they don't support it yet. Maybe a limitation of their 2.1 implementation?
You know.
In stores the crappy TVs always looks good but the actual good tvs always looks bad.
In stores the crappy TVs always looks good but the actual good tvs always looks bad.
Well 2.0b can do 4k120 but only at 4:2:0 and without HDR. But thats only if they basically port that feature over. Natively its 1080p120 and even that is unoffial.
Would suprice me if it takes 2 more years (or more) for every tv manufacturur to implement it. Let alone av reciever manufacturers.
the cheapest tvs that have decent hdr are tcl 6 series and Hisense H8F. They got really cheap around black Friday. Not much more than a NU7100. the TCL was like 500 CAD, which is less than 400USD.
So the TV that is currently broken has a bad backlight so you can barely see pictures. It's an LG 32LF595B. I had that set up to turn off at 10:30pm every day. it worked for a time but she wakes up after that to turn it on and it runs till morning until that night at 10:30pm. Anyway I change it it gets turned on at some point at night. Before then it was Element brand TV.
That's what I thought too?
Oddly, it works with my Samsung Q90R? Or maybe my tv has an IR blaster?
Hmm, I've checked and under device power options it says
Device: TV, when Xbox turns on send, "on" is enabled.
Yet when I turned on the Xbox when my TV is off, it doesn't power on. Or when my TV is already on and I power on the Xbox it doesn't switch to that HDMI input. Hmm..
Just picked up a C9 and WOW.
People are not kidding about OLED. Threw up a movie on it with my old TV (2015 Sony x810c) side by side to compare and the combination of HDR plus OLED is beautiful.
Also happy to have HDMI 2.1 for when the new consoles come out.
People are not kidding about OLED. Threw up a movie on it with my old TV (2015 Sony x810c) side by side to compare and the combination of HDR plus OLED is beautiful.
Also happy to have HDMI 2.1 for when the new consoles come out.
Edit sorry I meant cinema(user)On my C8 I find it accurate. I have not measured it on C9. I won't dispute your actual measurements for home. HDR for me has been the best in Cinema the others lack the same peak highlights in my experience. Also the cinema and technicolor are the same pretty much how are you getting such a huge divide.
So a few things. Cinema (User) is just Cinema. It changes and adds the (User) when a change are made to the settings. Cinema has always been accurate. This has forever been the case even in the 9600 and 9500 series before they renamed it. Cinema used to be called HDR Standard, and Cinema Home used to be called HDR Bright. In the 7 Series it changed to Cinema and Cinema Home.
You seem to have been pretty adamant that Cinema Home was what was correct, accurate and what needed to be used for the "best" HDR. Why? Even in your old posts you have said home as well. Something would have made you think Cinema Home was better and most accurate, I'm curious as to what it was.
Regardless Cinema is the most accurate in all aspects. Is it 100% accurate? No. It's the closest which is why it is always the starting point.
The problems with Cinema Home are mainly the following when used default.
It does not track ETOF. It is elevated. That alone makes it inaccurate and will give luminace errors. Remember back 1 or 2 series of Samsung when the ETOF was elevated and not tracking correctly? Well same thing here in Cinema Home. Also it has the default color set too high. The default color control effects Saturation. So because of this it is over saturated. The Color Temp uses the scale of W and C, so it is has to be set to around W40 or W35 to get you closer to D65 coordinates when you calibrate. So when I said that it is inaccurate this is why. When I said it has a Bias towards blue in GS this is why.
In regards to you believing Technicolor and Cinema are the same this is incorrect. If you calibrate to D65 the coordinates for that are 0.313, 0.329. This is fact and proven. Technicolor white point is 0.300, 0.327. So my question to you is how is that the same? If you measure a display that is calibrated to 0.313, 0.329 white point while targeting a different white point. In this case 0.300, 0.327 you are getting dE over 3 across the board 100%, and vice versa. That is why I said Technicolor is ok if you like their whitepoint.
Also the standard is primarily D65...
Now regarding your reference to Game Mode. HDR Game when calibrated will get you to 800 nits easily. The last calibration I did the client said it was still too bright for him. HDR Cinema is also about 800-820 nits calibrated. So the HDR is good on Game. Plus that was with a 10% 18% APL Window. It would have been higher with a smaller window. Real scene HDR is only going to get around 750 Nits on an OLED so anything above that you are not getting a diminished experience.
Do you have equipment to measure? How are you coming to the conclusions for Technicolor and Cinema are the same? As well as when you were initially saying Cinema Home is accurate?
In interest of not spreading misinformation and all everything I typed above has been tested and verified with equipment on multiple displays from clients as well as ones that I personally own. So where are you getting you're information?
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I'm looking at getting a 75" TV, and there are now quite deep discounts on the Samsung 2019 QLEDs here in Norway. Is the Q60R an alright TV for 13 000 kroner (circa $1300), or should I throw in another 5000 kroner (about $500) for the Q70R? I can see that it has been getting quite good reviews, but a salesperson told me that he was disappointed in the colors, especially in a bright room. But he was also pushing me towards a pricier alternative, the Q85R ($2500). Alternatively I can go for the Q90R, which has been getting great reviews, but that's quite a bit above what I was planning on spending. My budget was originally about $2000 and the Q90R is now around $2800 (down from $4500).
I'm really unsure if I need to spend on the absolute best – I'm upgrading from an LG 49" UH650V, and I'm not sure if I'd even notice the difference between the Q60R and the Q70R. But I also want a TV that will last me for many years. Do anyone have any experiences with these TVs?
I'm really unsure if I need to spend on the absolute best – I'm upgrading from an LG 49" UH650V, and I'm not sure if I'd even notice the difference between the Q60R and the Q70R. But I also want a TV that will last me for many years. Do anyone have any experiences with these TVs?
After finishing my taxes and having enough savings I went with the Samsung UN55RU8000FXZA after checking it native refresh rate, light and color quality, and the price it currently at. From a few sources I'll need to update it firmware so I can take advantage the high refresh rate.