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I would guess there is a Bang & Olufsen (B&O) TV which uses the same panel and software and this firmware contains some speficic tweaks for that model
EDIT: Beovision Harmony?
Ah, considering the date, I wonder if that's going to be a black Friday deal model.
Alright, thanks.
Another question, between a C9 65" and a E9 55", which would generally be more recommended? I fear that the 65" might be a bit too large at around 3.5m viewing distance though I never tested it. Like I said, currently using a 50" and that's a tad bit too small for me. Guess 60" would be a sweet spot in my case.
They aren't the kind of company to be invloved in Black Friday.
Look how much the Beovision Harmony is for a clue :P
Didn't work for me, and I was just six months out of mine. LG rep basically told me that I had to get it repaired at the TV shop. For how much it would have cost me to get my B6 repaired, there's no way I wasn't just going to get a newer set. Literally the first time I've ever had an expensive electronic device fail relatively early. I've had cheap monitors fail within four years, but we're talking $200 cheap, not $2600. Pretty much all of the crap I have from the 90s still works too.
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I'm having a really hard time deciding between a 75" LCD or a 65" OLED for the living room in the new apartment, so I'm hoping for some feedback from the era.
Moving from 55' X900F. I'm pretty happy with that TV, only issue that i have is HDR... blooming subtitles and blooming on the black bars in movies.
So my options are:
Sony 75' X950G - 4k on big screen is tempting
Sony 65 A9F - picture quality, TV design is pure beauty, TV as central speaker
or
LG 65 C9 - lowest input lag, HDMI 2.1 and all features that I can't even try
Of course my main focus are video games.
Moving from 55' X900F. I'm pretty happy with that TV, only issue that i have is HDR... blooming subtitles and blooming on the black bars in movies.
So my options are:
Sony 75' X950G - 4k on big screen is tempting
Sony 65 A9F - picture quality, TV design is pure beauty, TV as central speaker
or
LG 65 C9 - lowest input lag, HDMI 2.1 and all features that I can't even try
Of course my main focus are video games.
The blooming isn't going away on the LCD if that helps. OLED will be pure black.
We have a small B&O shop near our office and the price, although the same LG OLED panel, is at least twice of LG's. And they demo their flagship with some scenes of superhero movies with soap opera effect etc. ...
Edit: We are close to OT3!
or it won't be as bad because there are less light sources to surface area to cause the bloomin
it kind of highlights the 900 series in their upper/mid range position.
You need to jump up to a Z9F to get a significant improvement there.
That's why I went for the Samsung. I think my 55inch has 320 zones.
Personally I will be going for the Lg C9 in 65 inch, The 2.1 HDMI only further cements my choice making it future proof.
I was recently going between LED vs OLED before settling on the C9, and I really can't say enough good things about it without coming across hyperbolic.
I didn't expect to see a HGiG option this soon or at least at the end of this console cycle. I thought it would be a next gen / late 2020 TV feature. Interesting that LG is ahead along with HDMI 2.1.
The console would read what TV you have and calibrate itself based on that. It would also have developers use tone mapping based on these parameters. It wouldn't need dynamic tone mapping anymore as it would be baked into the game.
Which HGIG option? Have they put something in the new C9 firmware?
Yeah, it's appeared as a setting in the newest C9 firmware.
what does the setting say/do?
what toggles do you have?
images would be great.... :)
also, somebody would a C9 connected to a PC or a Hd fury device, could you do be an edid dump with it enabled?
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This is pretty much all it is right now. Seems to turn DTM off right now.
Fantastic!This is pretty much all it is right now. Seems to turn DTM off right now.
If HGIG means DV style metadata for HDR games I'd be overjoyed. As I said earlier, I don't like DTM as it is now in games because it's not context-aware enough for my liking.
The update is in the latest firmware thats only available online. I'll test it tonight with Gears 5. Games might have to be programed to take advantage of tho.
I think it will need to communicate with the console for it to do anything and then the games need to make use of it, but I'm hoping that with the HGIG switched it "simulates" say 1000nit metadata and uses that in place of analysing and guessing the content, that would be a useful step for games.
you have a linker don't you?
You should do some research of your own on this, the C8 is in a really good place firmware-wise at the moment. Maybe they messed something up with the B8s, but definitely read into it.
I don't have a linker but I wish I did! It stinks because I didn't get game mode calibrated. My calibrator insisted that "Cinema" was far more accurate on C9.
Plus low latency works with all PQ modes, its the way to go. I do have the 3 custom tone map options so perhaps thats even better than HGiG?
Its all uncharted territory at the moment but excitng things are happening on the HDR game front. : ))
That HGIG option should hopefully negate the use for DTM or the need for a linker.
Somebody should do check out the fifa calibration screen with DTM on and HGIG on and then them all off and see what readings you get
Still, you can't blame people after they broke the black levels from March to like August? Five months with crushed blacks on a $2,000 TV is absurd.
I turned auto-updates off and don't see why I would change that unless they're going to add an actual feature to the C8.
So I guess I am going to keep the C8 after all. My whole system, AVR with 5.1.4 setup worked flawlessly with consoles, blu ray player and internal apps. I then tried playing PC games and both the mouse movement and more demanding games caused electric noise, both high and low. After a while, I connected the satelite cable and a low electric noise was constantly playing through my speakers, even when the C8 was not plugged in at all. The sounds stopped when I either disconnected the sat cable or the subwoofer cinch cable.
Today I thought, before talking with the satelite guy tomorrow morning, to try one more round of PC gaming with different connections. First was PC to AVR, AVR to TV -> electric noise. Second was PC to TV, sound from TV to AVR via HDMI ARC -> electric noise. Then, don't ask me why, I disconnected the subwoofer AND ALL IS SILENT. Even when connecting the sat cable now there is NO NOISE ... The bad thing now is that I bought the sub on October 13th 2018, so a little over a year ago ... I have known about the electric noise with PC gaming for about 3 to 4 months ... Gonna contact the hifi store and see what I can do. I mean, it could also be the subwoofer output of the AVR I think, but oh well.
Today I thought, before talking with the satelite guy tomorrow morning, to try one more round of PC gaming with different connections. First was PC to AVR, AVR to TV -> electric noise. Second was PC to TV, sound from TV to AVR via HDMI ARC -> electric noise. Then, don't ask me why, I disconnected the subwoofer AND ALL IS SILENT. Even when connecting the sat cable now there is NO NOISE ... The bad thing now is that I bought the sub on October 13th 2018, so a little over a year ago ... I have known about the electric noise with PC gaming for about 3 to 4 months ... Gonna contact the hifi store and see what I can do. I mean, it could also be the subwoofer output of the AVR I think, but oh well.
Well, yeah, I agree. That's why I told him to do some research instead of blindly updating his B8.
I'm getting one last notice from "CPS Central" to take advantage of an extended warranty deal for my C9.
$93 for 2 years (coverage begins after the manufacturers warranty expires, parts and labor)
they say if they can't fix it, they will replace it.
has anyone here dealt with them before?
I see Square Trade has something for $104 for two years.
$93 for 2 years (coverage begins after the manufacturers warranty expires, parts and labor)
they say if they can't fix it, they will replace it.
has anyone here dealt with them before?
I see Square Trade has something for $104 for two years.
I downloaded the new C9 update to try HGIG. Only looked at Forza Horizon 4 on the Xbox One X so far, but there's definitely a difference. With DTM on the logo clips at about 3800, Off is around 300, and HGIG at 800. Since the peak brightness of the tv is only around 700, that definitely seems right.
Switching back and forth in game and the APL is definitely lower than with DTM on, but highlights a bit brighter than with DTM off. I'll try some more games.
Switching back and forth in game and the APL is definitely lower than with DTM on, but highlights a bit brighter than with DTM off. I'll try some more games.
After trying a few games, PUBG is the most noticeable difference. A similar APL to both DTM on and off, with brighter highlights but more clipping.
So far it looks like games with calibration screens all show a major difference when calibrating, but in game it looks basically like DTM off. I guess that was the point of it though, right? To not need to calibrate for every game.
So far it looks like games with calibration screens all show a major difference when calibrating, but in game it looks basically like DTM off. I guess that was the point of it though, right? To not need to calibrate for every game.
Pretty sure it is already available w/ beta drivers
with a limited framerate window
I am currently running it and it works great! You will need the beta driver found here: https://www.mediafire.com/file/f38mk5ppy1emkqh/440.52.zip/file
and to use the G-Sync guide found here: https://www.blurbusters.com/gsync/gsync101-input-lag-tests-and-settings/14/
I had similar results on PS4 Pro with a battlefield 1.In calibrated "cinema" mode, DTM off, I get up to 3800–4000. In "game" mode with HGIG tops at 800.
B9 wasn't out when I got mine, but if I was looking at it now, GSYNC even at a narrow range would put me over the edge.
Guys, I am fucking raging mad. As said before, I have a B6 with screen burn that is now picking up more screen burn. Rang them and was told I am out of warranty, yet rang in warranty and was magically told it was not included in warranty! I was offered a ridiculous paying repair of 999 pounds and I am absolutely raging mad. I would highly recommend based on my customer service interactions you avoid LG like the plague, they are useless. I've never been so belittled and palmed off in my life.
That sucks. Did you have just the one year warranty that came with it, or did you buy an extended three year one? I couldn't believe it when I turned mine on to a white stripe that would not go away, and yep, it was going to cost me $1000 to get mine fixed too. Screw that. As for burn in though? That's not covered under the warranty, and despite all of the decrees here about how burn in "isn't really a thing" on OLEDs, that's patently false, it's just not widespread. Also, was this caused by a game, or static logo from another source? If so, any idea how many hours you had it running on the screen? I know Kyoufu's E6 got burn in just from the Netflix logo being left on for a few hours.
edit: Oh yeah, make sure to call your credit card holder if the TV is not yet two years old. Some will actually give you a refund. In my case, I had owned my set for two and a half years without an extended warranty. LG would not have covered anything, but my card actually extended it by a year.
As we don't have the Panasonics over here, it was still a choice between LG and Sony for getting a replacement, and the LG not only still had more features I wanted, it cost less for the same screen size. I ended up getting a 65'' C8 and a three year warranty for less than what my 55'' B6 cost without one. Regardless, that's a hell of a lot of money to spend within three years. My ten year old, $800 plasma still works too.
User warned: Inappropriate commentary
I got warranty from the store, but I can't be without my TV so its a frustrating choice. As far as it goes it only appears on red screen but now it seems to be burning in stuff I don't recognise. I have zero idea. The TV is nearly four years old now. For the fucking ridiculous price posted I could buy a new one.
Edit, my remote won't connect either. Have tried to do the reset with home and back but the magic remote won't connect so I can't even do the screen protect repair.
Woman on the phone was awful. Proper stuck up bitch.