lol yeah if you had the eco setting on, it was a huge difference for me.
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Fingers crossed that I had it on. I watch in a pretty dark room and coming off a smaller KS8000 from a couple years ago, the Q6FN was absurdly dim, even with no reflections on screen and minimal lighting in the room.
I have the U.S. 55 inch model and am enjoy it allot. I game about 12 hours per week and do another 3-4 hours for movie viewing. No problems out of the box at all. Easy set up, smart apps are great, XBox gaming is really awesome + using the motion plus feature seriously makes these games feel like theyre rolling along at 60 fps. I did hget the UBK90 4K bluray player,very nice picture so far. The upscaling on BluRays is really good also.
For older films I often use the apps on the tv that came installed and watch allot of old vintage tv stuff,Battlestar Galactica,MIami Vice, Six million dollar man, and for those turning on the fast motion feature to smooth out older media is really great. Thats one of the big things I like about the tv here,you use this feature in gaming and movies and its such a game changer in my eyes. Makes everything so much smoother,really like it allot.
Speakers are decent enough,not great but decent. I often turn up the volume to 80 when I watch films(tv set in in a small bedroom) with the peak volume setting being at 100. So it does its job in the sound department decently but if you're moving this to a large front room then maybe a pair of blutooth speakers or a soundbar would be a better choice.
I grabbed my set for $750 at Best Buy,free delivery,no regrets. I'm along the lines of a 70% gaming, 30% movie and old vintage tv shows type of user. I can see myself enjoying this set for years to come,not a stop gap or tide me over type set. Picture quality is nice.
Not "bad", just inaccurate. I'm all for everyone using whatever settings they want on their TV but I think everyone should at least give Warm color temps a shot. It really only takes a day or so to adjust and afterwards you'll see just how odd the cool temps look.
Plus for me personally, HDR on Vivid/Standard settings is just blinding as far as brightness goes.
Great deal, best here in Switzerland was 5900EUR.
I'm now hoping that the 65C8 gets a price drop around CES time (early January).
Likely?
Yeah you may be right. I'll give it a shot and see if I adjust. I do want the best picture possible, not just what initially looks best to me.
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Ok fine, add another fucking thing I can't watch on my commute... :P
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I understand but I think it is important to remember that this is not an exact science. The rtings article I linked to tries to delve into the science involved to explain their recommendations but even so, that is all they are: recommendations. I think their real benefit is for the individual to use their recommendation as a starting point and then tweak it as necessary to what works best for them. These are suggestions, not, YOU MUST DO THIS!!! I would try it at the 2-2.5 m you mentioned and see how you get on with that. My 55" OLED is arriving tomorrow with my 4K player so I shall be going through this trial and error process myself. I don't expect to find the optimum distance for me straight away even using the rtings article as a starting point. If I could conjure up Sheldon from the Big Bang Theory to calculate the optimum spot I would. Then I would send him on to you. My magic wand is not behaving however. Sorry.
I loled, thanks anyway, but yeah, I'll experiment with it for a while and see where it lands.
I own and love OLEDs, and Plasmas old and new before it. You talk as if it's completely unjustified. I've had two OLEDs that never had burn in issue, and one that has. It's not a matter of "oh it's so rare it'll never happen or it's overblown." Some TV screens are simply more prone to it than others, its partially random luck, even with all the safeguarding technology that has been added through the years.
You are probably right with some people, they might be validating themselves. But your silly attitude is just as bad if not worse. Some people just don't want to worry about it. I use both OLEDs (main living room) and LCDs (kids rooms/spare rooms). It's easier and more comfortable for me to have my kids using the LCDs just for my own peace of mind. People can have logical reasons for not wanting an OLED, don't sound so insecure.
Been trying to capture the magenta tint on B7 on an all white screen with my camera, and it seems to be impossible lol. Not sure if I should gamble with an eexchange or just deal with ir.
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If it's one of the beautiful Sony sets (the 34XBR960 or 34XBR970 to be precise) then they accepted a 720P signal which is what I would use as it looked better than sending it a 1080i signal from the Xbox 360 era and it doesn't support a 1080P signal obviously..
It has a dark and subdued look.
I didn't think it looked bad at all, but you can probably watch it on something else if you wanted.
Of course its gonna look best on your C8 tho :)
Keep an eye out for a few scenes in episode 9 and 10, its so dark and so little movement happening that your TV will think there is nothing happening and slowly dim itself, it "wakes up" by pressing anything on the remote.
Its a fantastic story, highly recommended.
Did you notice it before? Maybe try to replicate how it happened.
If it doesn't then even better for you!
Best Buy has the only warranty worth a damn if you ask me, especially for OLEDs. They cover burn-in if you're paranoid about that along with any type of accidental damage.
Alright cool! Not too worried about burn in. Just if I ever do need the warranty it'll be nice to know they're helpful. Appreciate your time and info!
Hook it up with HDMI. Switch doesn't output 1080i so you're going to have to go with 720p.
No choice.
Like Chamber said, its probably the best warranty around. Its expensive but you get what you pay for at least.
You should be watching it at home for the sound design alone. It needs surround sound to be fully appreciated.
It does. Since you normally cannot adjust the grayscale or cms in game mode, the auto cal allows for LUT calibration. I would only suggest doing a 1D LUT though and only for game mode. The other modes you are better off calibrating manually. If you do decide to do a 3D LUT do a lighting or Matrix. Do not do IRP. they added another method I believe but I haven't tried it yet. To much drift and you have to be able to handle the temp change and drift which they added options for as well but it takes anywhere between 6-10 hrs to complete a full 4500+ patch LUT. Matrix will get you close, Lighting will get you closer but takes a few hours to complete.
Either way a 1D LUT will completely correct the grayscale. Otherwise it cannot really be matched to calibrated mode since it is inaccurate as all hell to begin with and without being able to adjust grayscale and CMS some might think they can get it close but a meter will tell otherwise. The only way to adjust it without is through the service menu and doing a 2PT W/B
Thank you! My biggest pet peeve with the LG OLEDs finally has a work-around then - great news.
Worth noting out that the 49 model has a 60 hz panel, rest of sizes is 120. If you can, get the 55'.
I think the 49'Q6FN is a 49'' 120hz panel (one of the few it seems :(), but it's probably more expensive...
OLEDs are already capable of displaying perfect blacks and have infinite:1 contrast ratios. Bias lighting won't do anything for them beyond aesthetics, kind of like painting a racing stripe on your Camry.
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Why wouldn't it reduce eye fatigue on an OLED just like it would on an LED? I'm not advocating you do it on an OLED but some people suffer from eye fatigue (not a visual improvement but an enjoyment improvement to some)
Hey TV knowers, I got a cyber Monday deal on a Vizio P Series and it has this setting called "Active Full Array™" that can be set to off, low, medium, or high -- and I haven't been able to find any information about what it does. I haven't thought about TV technology for about 6 years so I'm a little in the dark, but I gather it has something to do with local dimming. Anybody know what I should be looking for when adjusting this setting?
From my understanding bias lighting is typically used to increase the perceived contrast ratio for LCD tv's, at least that's the reason I put bias lighting in for my LCD in the living room.
That sucks. I'm interested in knowing how many hours playing it took to burn that in, what value OLED light was set at, and which LG OLED that poster owns.
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It is, but it's also to combat eye fatigue which would apply to OLED. Again, I agree it's a bad idea for OLED UNLESS the TV is giving you eye strain.
https://www.howtogeek.com/213464/ho...le-watching-tv-and-gaming-with-bias-lighting/
I think the Philips OLEDs even come with their ambilight thing too, which I imagine serves as bias lighting.
Phillips has been doing that for a long time with their LCD's, Ambilight.
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It will diminish the impact of infinite contrast, to an extent
A new day and I learn something new about the Q9FN, hahaha.
I unintentionally started using the smart remote on the Xbox One X dashboard and it actually worked. Wtf? I can just navigate anywhere on Xbox with this thing.
How?
I unintentionally started using the smart remote on the Xbox One X dashboard and it actually worked. Wtf? I can just navigate anywhere on Xbox with this thing.
How?
Yea the LG remote is great. I prefer controling my Apple TV with it.
