Well here we go again. Founders edition cards at Best Buy tomorrow morning.
-
Ever wanted an RSS feed of all your favorite gaming news sites? Go check out our new Gaming Headlines feed! Read more about it here.
-
We have made minor adjustments to how the search bar works on ResetEra. You can read about the changes here.
The PC Builders Thread ("I Need a New PC") v3
- Thread starter Crazymoogle
- Start date
- PC Tech OT
Well here we go again. Founders edition cards at Best Buy tomorrow morning.
The 3060 can play games at 1440p, but it probably won't have the longevity it will at 1080p. The 3060Ti on the other hand is much better suited for that. If the space is enough, a 27" 1440p Monitor will look nice. You probably will notice when content is at below native, but personally it's not such a big deal.
It does look like a 1080p monitor would be better in your case, but yeah, I can understand you, if you are going to upgrade you of course want an upgrade
What do you look for in a PC case?
Right now I have my eyes set on Fractal Design Meshify C Mini. Reviews have very few bad things to say about it so at this point I just want it because it looks aesthetically pleasing. Is this a good way to go about it or should I expand my horizons? My next build at this point might be with a micro ATX mobo so I'm looking for a micro ATX case mind you.
I have the Non-mini version of case. I have no problems with it so far and it had good cable management. My system looks clean and I'm not usually good at doing that.
But, I just got a 3080Ti and I realized that it's bigger than the max size for the case, with the fan installed. So I'll have to remove/move a fan to fit it in, I think. With the lower front fan, max GPU size is 315mm. Removing a fan should allow a card up to 335mm according to the manual:
From what I understand, the mini is basically the exact same case size except it's a little bit shorter. I'm not sure if saving a couple inches of height is worth not being able to use an ATX mobo, but I guess it doesn't matter if you're not gonna do that.
I've been using a Meshify C for a few months and it's the best case I've ever owned. Airflow is solid and dust is basically nonexistent. The front filter catches everything.What do you look for in a PC case?
Right now I have my eyes set on Fractal Design Meshify C Mini. Reviews have very few bad things to say about it so at this point I just want it because it looks aesthetically pleasing. Is this a good way to go about it or should I expand my horizons? My next build at this point might be with a micro ATX mobo so I'm looking for a micro ATX case mind you.
Anyone done a clean install of Windows 11, rather than the Win10 insider upgrade? I'm preparing this method for when that last pieces of my build arrive today and just wondering if anyone has had success? I'm most curious about licensing. I have a fresh, unused Win10 Pro license ready to go.
Just ordered an ASRock B550 Phantom Gaming, a Ryzen 7 5800X, and 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4-3600 CL18 (2x16GB) kit, upgrading from a i7 3770K Ivy Bridge! Can't wait to go back to the future, lol.
Just a small notice, GN found out that you can actually gain 5-8% performance using 4 sticks of ram instead of 2, with the same specs and capacity with Ryzen 5xxx processor, so it would be better if you would be able to use 4x8GB instead of 2x16GB.
Nice, I can order another 32GB hehe, probably 5 years down the road...
Okay I might aswell ask just for future planning, opinions on going from a Fractal Design Define R5 TG to a Meshify Compact 2?
I posted here about an issue I had where my screen would go black, I would hear the disconnect sound, and then it would come back in a couple seconds, seemingly no harm done.
Well I've got a clear pattern now. Each time I turn on the computer, it will do this once, and it does it when it's first exposed to certain 'video' content. For example, if I open the browser and go to Prime Video, just the auto playing video ads triggers this. It does the blink and disconnect, then it comes back. I'm able to watch the video without issue, but it does it every time I use my computer (which I've been turning off each night).
Any thoughts?
Well I've got a clear pattern now. Each time I turn on the computer, it will do this once, and it does it when it's first exposed to certain 'video' content. For example, if I open the browser and go to Prime Video, just the auto playing video ads triggers this. It does the blink and disconnect, then it comes back. I'm able to watch the video without issue, but it does it every time I use my computer (which I've been turning off each night).
Any thoughts?
yeah I'm kinda back and forth. I do have an LG C8 in the same room so I can play at 4K, albeit no VRR/120hz, if I end up being crazy and buying a high end card. Thanks for the input :)
OP
OP
I mean that smells of two things
1. driver issue; something crashing on video playback (since GPUs have hardware decoders)
2. GPU hardware issue (something you would need to RMA for)
As usual try DDU first
1. Download DisplayDriver Uninstaller (DDU) and your latest GPU driver package
2. Reboot in safe mode 4 (hold shift when you click restart, but maybe check online for the right way to get to safe mode as Windows makes it terribly unclear)
4. Run DDU in admin mode and wipe the drivers
5. Pull your ethernet cable and reboot
6. (Windows will quietly install some basic driver so your computer functions, wait a minute)
7. Install the latest drivers you downloaded
8. Plug the internet back in
DDU fixes a surprising amount of seemingly hardware problems. But if it's still happening after that...
1. Try a different cable
2. Try a different port on the monitor
3. Try a different port on the graphics card
4. RMA
It might have trouble fitting some of the longer GPUs but otherwise the Meshify cases are great. There aren't many true "mATX" cases per se, you either slot it in a mid tower, or try something like the NR200 or the O11 Dynamic Mini which are SFF in nature but can take mATX instead of ITX specific.What do you look for in a PC case?
Right now I have my eyes set on Fractal Design Meshify C Mini. Reviews have very few bad things to say about it so at this point I just want it because it looks aesthetically pleasing. Is this a good way to go about it or should I expand my horizons? My next build at this point might be with a micro ATX mobo so I'm looking for a micro ATX case mind you.
I like my Define R7, but I'd imagine that would be a huge upgrade in airflow, so that seems a good idea, if the compayt 2 is big enough.
Thanks for the reply! Hmm alright that's good, I did a typo though, I don't have a R5 but an R6 :P I guess the same still applies? And yeah it should be big enough, my GPU is a 3070 FE and my CPU cooler a beQuiet! Dark Rock 3. I'm looking to downsize a bit too.
Didn't they just test single rank/memory channel vs dual rank/memory channel? The latter will get better performance. Not sure about his kit but plenty of 16gb modules are dual rank so you don't need 4 sticks to get the same performance benefit. If they didn't mention ranks in the GN vid then it's a terrible video which will lead to people drawing the wrong conclusion.
For someone who just enables XMP 4 sticks is actually worse than 2 dual rank sticks as it's harder on the IMC and the mobo will train worse secondary & tertiary timings.
Well, the whole R line has the same "issue" (more of an accepted compromise between looks, noise and airflow): the closed front makes for nice noise dampening, but hurts the airflow.
So I was talking a big game about getting a mATX mobo and case but now that I thought about case dimensions and any future hardware upgrade limitations, I decided to just get an ATX mobo and case. Specifically, getting a Fractal Design Meshify 2. Reviews make it seem way better than predecessor Meshify models. I might get the compact variation since I don't see myself using a hard drive bay.
As for a mobo, I'm back in square one. I was originally eyeing a B550 mATx mobo but now X570 ones are on the table. Is this newer chipset worth these premium prices in seeing?
As for a mobo, I'm back in square one. I was originally eyeing a B550 mATx mobo but now X570 ones are on the table. Is this newer chipset worth these premium prices in seeing?
Last edited:
OP
OP
X570: all M.2/PCIe are Gen4. Most use a fan.
B550: only one M.2 and one PCIe are Gen4. Usually fanless
Beyond that depends on the features you want. B550 has some very feature rich boards since its newer, like internal USB-C headers, WiFi6 and Gen 3.2x2 USB, but it's not to say X570 doesn't; it's just some boards dated back before that got pushed as much.
Yeah I'm aware of that, after installing high-pressure fans and tweaking all fan-curves manually I'm happy with my R6 but I still want something smaller long-term. To be honest I might have already switched to a Meshify but even after building PCs for well over 10 years now I'm scared to do anything to my PC in fear of breaking my 3070 FE, it's the most expensive computer part I've ever owned 😨
To answer my own question and possibly help someone else out...
Fresh install of Win11 using the linked method worked pretty well. Only thing to look out for is do NOT provide your Win10 license key during the install. When I did, it told me my PC did not meet minimum requirements for running Win11. Installing without a license, and activating later worked great.
What limitations do you think you will run into? I'm still looking for good mATX tower type cases since it just fits, and has fit, everything I've needed over my last decade of builds, for myself and others. Currently I'm dissapointed at the lack of selection with most people going for the super cramped ITX cases if they want small or what I feel waste of space with full atx.
Finally decided what I was gonna build for my baby and everything arrived today:
Case : Factual Design 2 Black
MB: ASUS ROG CROSSHAIR VIII DARK HERO
CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X
GPU: Auros 3080ti
Cooler : NZXT Kraken Z73
Ram: Corsair Dominator Platinum 32GB
WD Black SN850 PCIe 4.0 NVMe M.2 500GB
Really looking forward to build this beast, What do you guys thinks? :)
Case : Factual Design 2 Black
MB: ASUS ROG CROSSHAIR VIII DARK HERO
CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X
GPU: Auros 3080ti
Cooler : NZXT Kraken Z73
Ram: Corsair Dominator Platinum 32GB
WD Black SN850 PCIe 4.0 NVMe M.2 500GB
Really looking forward to build this beast, What do you guys thinks? :)
Well you got everything so we can't really do anything can we :) One small thing though, the Dominator RAM is kinda very overrated and overpriced unless you really like the look, or got one of the rare b-die variants.
One thing is don't limit your case choice just because you get an mATX board. Using an mATX board in an ATX case is completely fine if you don't mind the gap. Quality wise modern mATX boards are not in almost anyway inferior, in fact there are SO MANY quality mATX boards they are now my go to choice for builds that don't demand or justify a $200+ board. Unless you need things like 4+ PCI-E devices, 6+ SATA devices, a modern mATX board is completely fine.So I was talking a big game about getting a mATX mobo and case but now that I thought about case dimensions and any future hardware upgrade limitations, I decided to just get an ATX mobo and case. Specifically, getting a Fractal Design Meshify 2. Reviews make it seem way better than predecessor Meshify models. I might get the compact variation since I don't see myself using a hard drive bay.
As for a mobo, I'm back in square one. I was originally eyeing a B550 mATx mobo but now X570 ones are on the table. Is this newer chipset worth these premium prices in seeing?
Unfortunately mATX as a case form factor never took off so outside of certain antique brands there aren't many mainstream options, besides those that are SFF oriented but larger than true ITX cases like the NR200 or the O11 Mini.
Last edited:
lol, spilled my coffee :D
But you think its good?
When it comes to RAM, my brother said order these since he had the same, I wanted the G.Skill royal, but got the Dominator black instead.
The future seemed so bright for a time, probably like 10 years ago at this point. Like every major company had a decent matx option, and even multiple revisions of them. But like you said, guess it just didn't take off. Think I've said it before but it really is the goldilocks spot for me size wise. Big enough to hold everything I need, even multiple old hard drives and a large air cooler/radiator while not having too much dead space while also not being a pain in the ass to fit everything/work with with room for standard cable management.
Think I'll just be reusing my Arc Mini R2 for my next build even though I was hoping for something more modern without the need for an optical drive bay.
Transplanted my system into the NR200 yesterday
The side doesn't close with the cooler 🤦
It's only the top corner that doesn't close, so i've just left it like that for now. also seems a little loud (and lots of ramping up + down) but i've only booted it once to check so far, going to game later so we'll see how it holds up
The side doesn't close with the cooler 🤦
It's only the top corner that doesn't close, so i've just left it like that for now. also seems a little loud (and lots of ramping up + down) but i've only booted it once to check so far, going to game later so we'll see how it holds up
I'm having a really annoying GPU issue and I haven't had any luck resolving it. Did a clean driver reinstall with no luck.
Whenever I play a 2D game (FF PR, Stardew Valley, and Forager all exhibit the same issue), and I alt-tab out and back in, GPU usage goes to 0%, resulting in ~5fps or less. The GPU will often disconnect from the game entirely afterwards, crashing it. Sometimes it will happen sporadically after a few hours of playing as well without alt-tabbing. The only way to resolve it is to completely reboot my PC.
Note that this does not effect 3D games whatsoever. I can boot Horizon Zero Dawn after the issue occurs and my GPU usage is fine there. As soon as I boot up Stardew Valley again, I'm stuck with 0% GPU usage.
I've tried setting my NVidia Control Panel to "Prefer Maximum Performance", but no luck there. Clocks still report as full speed, but GPU usage still remains 0.
Any ideas?
Ryzen 5900X
RTX 2070 Super
Whenever I play a 2D game (FF PR, Stardew Valley, and Forager all exhibit the same issue), and I alt-tab out and back in, GPU usage goes to 0%, resulting in ~5fps or less. The GPU will often disconnect from the game entirely afterwards, crashing it. Sometimes it will happen sporadically after a few hours of playing as well without alt-tabbing. The only way to resolve it is to completely reboot my PC.
Note that this does not effect 3D games whatsoever. I can boot Horizon Zero Dawn after the issue occurs and my GPU usage is fine there. As soon as I boot up Stardew Valley again, I'm stuck with 0% GPU usage.
I've tried setting my NVidia Control Panel to "Prefer Maximum Performance", but no luck there. Clocks still report as full speed, but GPU usage still remains 0.
Any ideas?
Ryzen 5900X
RTX 2070 Super
Everything else is solid! For RAM Crucial Ballistix with micron e die in a dual rank setup is a great option.
How much are you going to pay for it and do you plan to sell your 2070S? If it ends up being like, $400 for the 3070Ti, it's pretty good.
Looks fine in terms of potential. Kinda skimped on your storage space, bro. But if that's where you wanted to save money, it is what it is.
I agree that the Dominator ram wasn't a great choice, but it'll be fine if you can get the timings tight enough. If you're not going to be tuning the RAM, something that's 3600 CL14 would have been better in performance, and cheaper too.
Tip: Install as few RGB programs as possible. You unfortunately bought a bunch of RGB shit and all from different manufacturers (NZXT, Corsair, Gigabyte, AND Asus). All of which get the best RGB controls when using their dedicated apps. I'm telling you right now: Install all those RGB controller apps and you WILL lose performance in your games. Tested and well-known.
Also, you didn't mention what PSU you went with.
How is NZXT's Kraken reliability these days? Those things used to be real sketch. Pump issues.
I see complications happening from buying a big video card and if covering up all the headers and whatnot. I'm also considering case size because frankly I won't get a mATX board unless it's in a mATX case and there's a whole lot of space concern I'm worrying about later on.
Thanks :)
I have 4TB HDD I didn't mention, Thought storage was kinda obvious :D
PSU corsair 1000
We had NZXT for years , never had issue. So I bought it based on that .
MSI MPG B550 Gaming Edge is on sale:
www.canadacomputers.com
EDIT: Well actually I think I have my final build figured out. No video card since it's hell to find one so I'll use the 1050 ti from my old build. What do you all think?
Prices are in CAD fyi but you can see the prices in USD if you take off the "ca." on the url.
Canada Computers | Best PC, Laptop, Gaming Gear, Printer, TV, Cables - Canada Computers & Electronics
The best deals on laptops, PC, game systems, components, small appliances, cables, and office supplies. Save more by shopping online or in-store!
www.canadacomputers.com
EDIT: Well actually I think I have my final build figured out. No video card since it's hell to find one so I'll use the 1050 ti from my old build. What do you all think?
Prices are in CAD fyi but you can see the prices in USD if you take off the "ca." on the url.
Last edited:
Random question, I want to get a pre-built pc for video editing. Saw this on best buy and was curious if it was decent or if there was something better around.
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/hp-pav...56gb-ssd-shadow-black/6468104.p?skuId=6468104
My budget is like 1300 but if I don't need to spend it either that would be dope.
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/hp-pav...56gb-ssd-shadow-black/6468104.p?skuId=6468104
My budget is like 1300 but if I don't need to spend it either that would be dope.
It was when I dropped the desire to ever go SLI/multicard again that I settled on matx. Even if I did the better cases would have 4 punch outs typically. Was harder to find ones with the length clearance as well as cages for full size hard drives but that would be less of an issue now, but no one is making good matx tower cases anymore it seems.
Sweet, ty! Going to spend most of my morning tuning this thing. I thought I had a stable undervolt back when I first got the card and went with a couple recommendations I saw on reddit but Metro Exodus Enhanced Edition proved that wasn't the case. Apparently super demanding RTX-heavy games are a great way to test stability.
Which 3080 do you have and what were your previous settings? I've found 1890 MHz at around 863 mV stable for my 3080 FE, it'll autobooat to 1905 MHz as well. I can't go below 850 mV and be stable unless I also reduce frequency below 1860 MHz.
Also, the idea with the apps is that you set your undervolt, then run Unigine Heaven for 20-30 minutes and monitor with HWinfo64.Also, the lowest possible undervolt that will be stable for Heaven will likely not be stable in a raytracing benchmark like Bright Memory (which is also free) or 3DMark (which often goes in sale for $4.99 and I highly recommend getting it).
I'm using the FW3 Ultra card. I had been running at 1800MHz/850mv and couldn't tell a difference from stock in performance, even though it was operating up to 15 degrees cooler under heavy load. Messing around in Superposition and it's a really minimal difference between those settings - it just ran at an average of 4 FPS less than stock but that's a small sample size.
From experimenting with Metro last night, 1920MHz/925mv was my most stable mark, though still not on the money. I made it about 5 minutes in-game maxed out, compared to a minute or less with my original undervolt.
I'm not super into min-maxing so I'll probably spend just an hour or two tweaking to see if I can keep this from crashing under full load. If I can't get it perfectly stable I'll probably just use my original setting and turn off my undervolt next time I finish Metro haha. It runs HOT but it's stable at stock.
What kind of video editing? Because that Ryzen 3 + 8 GB RAM combo is fairly low end in this day and age. If it's very light stuff it'll probably be fine.
Depending on your other needs, I would probably step up a processor class or two and get 16 GB RAM.
With the new GPU, I think its finally time I step up from my 14 year old monitor.
I want some quick input on a few I see recommended in the older thread. I think 144hz 2k resolution is fine. It was mentioned IPS is a bit cheaper?
LG-27GN800-B
Gigabyte M27Q
I want some quick input on a few I see recommended in the older thread. I think 144hz 2k resolution is fine. It was mentioned IPS is a bit cheaper?
LG-27GN800-B
Gigabyte M27Q
Hey, Crazymoogle, I'm not sure if this could go to the OP or not, but it seems to me that a lot of people are having the issue with 30xx cards: when you turn on the PC, you get one long beep and three short ones. It still boots normally, but it takes a few more seconds than usual and it's annoying.
Right now, there are two possible fixes: disabling CSM on the motherboard's BIOS will solve most cases. In case that is already disabled and it's still happening, people should turn off "Legacy USB Support." That will solve it. Which means no legacy support on the BIOS whatsoever. These cards require the most modern tech to work without issues.
I'm not very active on this thread, so feel free to point them to this fix however you think works best!
Right now, there are two possible fixes: disabling CSM on the motherboard's BIOS will solve most cases. In case that is already disabled and it's still happening, people should turn off "Legacy USB Support." That will solve it. Which means no legacy support on the BIOS whatsoever. These cards require the most modern tech to work without issues.
I'm not very active on this thread, so feel free to point them to this fix however you think works best!
I'm thinking of getting the Odyssey G7, VA's black levels will probably make gaming more immersive than IPS. though I'm also thinking of Asus TUF monitor if i decided to go IPS with flat planel. they are both priced the same here. Contrast seems really low on most LG panels, even less than other IPS panels.
Went to see it in person and the curve on the G7 just seems too much for me. And I'm coming from a C27HG70 which also has a curve, just a bit less. What else are the top 1440p monitors now? Was close to getting an LG last time I looked but don't know what else has come out recently.
Like serious editing, using some heavy programs. I dont know shit about building a pc honestly but upon further investigation it seems like it would be the best option for me. I came across this video a few mins ago from last year and it had a list of parts and upgrades that would be good for editing. There were multiple listed but this is essentially what I'm sitting with.
parts:
- AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 8-Core, 16-Thread Unlocked Desktop Processor with Wraith Prism LED Cooler
- MSI ProSeries AMD Ryzen 2ND and 3rd Gen AM4 M.2 USB 3 DDR4 D-Sub DVI HDMI Crossfire ATX Motherboard (B450-A Pro Max) (B450APROMAX)
- Sapphire 11265-07-20G Radeon Nitro+ Rx 580 4GB GDDR5 Dual HDMI/ DVI-D/ Dual DP with Backplate (UEFI) PCI-E Graphics Card
- CRJ 4-Pin Molex to 3 x 3-Pin PC Case Fan Sleeved Adapter Cable
- NZXT H510 - CA-H510B-W1 - Compact ATX Mid-Tower PC Gaming Case - Front I/O USB Type-C Port - Tempered Glass Side Panel - Cable Management System- Water-Cooling Ready
- EVGA 110-BQ-0500-K1, 500 Bq, 80+ Bronze 500W, Semi Modular, FDB Fan, 3 Year Warranty, Power Supply
- Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3200MHz C16 Desktop Memory Kit
- Kingston 480GB A400 M.2 Internal SSD SA400M8/480G