Pricey but pretty. There is not a single other GPU waterblock ever made that looks remotely like the one EK makes for the RTX 3000 FE models, especially with the optional active backplate.
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The PC Builders Thread ("I Need a New PC") v3
- Thread starter Crazymoogle
- Start date
- PC Tech OT
I do love the rear inlet/outlet ports on them. But I think the Corsair waterblocks have a great look to them. Though, I do wish they had the flow meter on them like their 20 series blocks did.
Do you think it is worth it to build a new PC (basically new motherboard, ram and CPU since I have everything else) without a GPU and buy that once I can find one for a normal price, which will probably be sometime next year earliest? I would use my GTX970 until then.
It kind of depends on whether you really NEED a PC now, because there's completely new platforms to be released at the end of the year.
I wanted a new PC for a year or more now but I never bothered because I can't find a normal priced GPU. The idea behind my question was to split costs a bit. Pay for a better GPU/Mobo/Ram now and a GPU once I find one. Could be next month, could be next year.
Guess I do some more research about the upcoming Intel/AMD CPUs for now.
wtf
Any more info on this?
I just checked and I bought a Seasonic PX-850 Platinum in 02/19. My rig is dissembled at the moment, but I do remember having this issue and power issues in general with my 3090. I'm guessing mine was a 2018 model? Are you able to tell by serial?
[EOL] PSU Tier List rev. 14.8
PSU Tier List 4.0 rev. 14.8 (END OF LIFE) Last Update: 27-07-2021 Legend : Gray - EoL/obsolete and/or otherwise not recommended for purchase. Green - small form-factor (gold and blue colors are disregarded due to scarcity of SFX PSUs) Gold - best units in the tier (includes requirements for blue ...
linustechtips.com
You might want to contact Seasonic customer support and get a check.
How can I find out? I bought it from Newegg in the fall of 2019.
[EOL] PSU Tier List rev. 14.8
PSU Tier List 4.0 rev. 14.8 (END OF LIFE) Last Update: 27-07-2021 Legend : Gray - EoL/obsolete and/or otherwise not recommended for purchase. Green - small form-factor (gold and blue colors are disregarded due to scarcity of SFX PSUs) Gold - best units in the tier (includes requirements for blue ...
You might want to contact Seasonic customer support and get a check.
yup, i have a strix 3090 smh
are seasonic psus the only psus with this issue?
Hopefully, it's okay to post PC Part Picker links in here?
I'm looking at potentially building this system providing I can get grab a 3060Ti FE at RRP (they do pop up from time to time). I should also be able to knock some cost off this build by finding deals on the CPU and motherboard in particular.
Any concerns anyone would have with this build or advice on where to improve without impacting cost?
I'm looking at potentially building this system providing I can get grab a 3060Ti FE at RRP (they do pop up from time to time). I should also be able to knock some cost off this build by finding deals on the CPU and motherboard in particular.
Any concerns anyone would have with this build or advice on where to improve without impacting cost?
Looks like a nice list, but ideally you'd want to get a Ryzen 5 5600X in here. It's quite a step up.
Any way to stretch the budget a little bit? You could shave off a few pounds by going for the 3200mhz ram instead.
But in general I like the parts you picked. Thinking about getting the Corsair 4000D myself.
It looks like it's maybe an extra £80 for a 5600x compared to a 3600 so I probably could stretch to that actually without having to save costs elsewhere. Is the performance jump worth it?
Might be a silly question, but 5600x is better than a Ryzen 7 3700x?
Would I have to add cooling for a 5600x or would the stock cooler generally suffice?
Personally I think it's worth it yeah. Take a look at this video for example, so you can see for yourself if it's worth the extra money.
The 3700x has 2 more cores, but for gaming the 5600X is faster. I'd get the latter if gaming is your main focus.
The stock cpu cooler will work but ideally you'd want to upgrade down the line. You can always do this later if necessary..
Also keep in mind that the 4000D comes with just 2 very basic fans. You might want to pick up 2 more fans or so. These Arctic P12 PWM fans are currently on sale and offer great value
One thing I suggest is that when you build it, don't put the SN550 nvme on the top M.2 that is gen 4.0. Even if the WD Blue is your OS drive, you can install it at the bottom in order to leave the 4.0 port open for a future drive that is 4.0 with your game library and whatnot.
I agree with the 5600X recommendation, btw, or maybe even going intel with a i5 11400 if budget is tight.
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I have a theory that the Seasonic PRIME TX-1600W never came out because it had the same aggressive overcurrent protections that 3090s trigger, so they had to go back to fix that because imagine the embarrassment of launching a $500-$700 1600W PSU that turns itself off when the money-is-no-object enthusiasts that it is aimed to try SLI.[EOL] PSU Tier List rev. 14.8
PSU Tier List 4.0 rev. 14.8 (END OF LIFE) Last Update: 27-07-2021 Legend : Gray - EoL/obsolete and/or otherwise not recommended for purchase. Green - small form-factor (gold and blue colors are disregarded due to scarcity of SFX PSUs) Gold - best units in the tier (includes requirements for blue ...
You might want to contact Seasonic customer support and get a check.
At that pricepoint the 11400F is the way to go. You should check prices though as demand has caused the 11400F to go up in price in most regions. With how close the 11400F is to the 5600x I don't think it's worth it to go for a 5600x if your budget is limited. My advice is based on MSRP so again it depends on your regonial prices though.
Thanks for the suggestion on the M2 drive.
I did consider the 11400F actually, the only reason I chose against this was in case I want to upgrade in the future really. I can stretch my budget to the 5600X I think based on current pricing without too much problem.
AMD and Intel are moving to DDR5 ram with AM5 and Alderlake respectively.
So i've been trying to come up with a new build. My current pc is running on a r5 1600 and used to have a 1060. However, my GPU died so I ended up borrowing a 1070 ti. The build I've been thinking off is the following:
There's no GPU selected on there, but I'm hoping to obtain a stock AMD RX 6700 XT. I'd basically be reusing my storage from my current pc, which is why that's not on the list either. Do you all have any comments on the build? I have been told I might need to get myself a decent CPU cooler because the stock Ryzen one isn't that great.
There's no GPU selected on there, but I'm hoping to obtain a stock AMD RX 6700 XT. I'd basically be reusing my storage from my current pc, which is why that's not on the list either. Do you all have any comments on the build? I have been told I might need to get myself a decent CPU cooler because the stock Ryzen one isn't that great.
Would it be unwise to buy a new monitor BEFORE I upgrade my PC? Im looking to get a totally new PC sometime in the next year but kind of want to get things like a monitor, speakers, etc beforehand. Is 4k gaming a thing in the PC world yet? Is it something I should be thinking about? My current rig can really only handle 1080p so Ive been looking at monitors that can handle that just fine but also want to upgrade into something that can do 1080p for as long as I need it to be be good for higher resolutions when I upgrade.
My 7 year old 23in Asus 1080p monitor really sucks and I want something larger and newer but I dont want it to be immediately outdated the moment I upgrade my PC.
Some of these monitors are so expensive too. I was hoping to keep the monitor around 350.00.
My 7 year old 23in Asus 1080p monitor really sucks and I want something larger and newer but I dont want it to be immediately outdated the moment I upgrade my PC.
Some of these monitors are so expensive too. I was hoping to keep the monitor around 350.00.
Since you are trying to keep cost down and want to get something that will last I would recomend waiting till after you build your new computer to get one unless something specific is on super sale. Reasons being is that you will be paying for performance that your current pc may not be able to drive, so to speak. Also 4k is "growing" but getting it of any quality is expensive. Like the really good 1440p monitors are still over your set price.
Welp, random rig updates: I swapped out my EK monoblock for a normal CPU block from Optimus (dem kings). Temps are current -10C on the minimum, and -17C on the maximum. I'm pretty sure I won't be going with a monoblock again, despite its attractive appearance (to my eyes, anyway). It's possible that my install wasn't perfect, but the low temps were fairly typical and the max temps were higher than I wanted to see but not unusual in so far as I'm aware. In the end, the normal CPU block is easier to install and easier to maintain and perform maintenance on (monoblock removal for cleaning or w/e requires removal of the entire motherboard from the chassis to remove several screws from the back), and looks hella mature.
Current CPU temp range after 5 or 6 hours: min 37C, max 73C, average 46C. This is a 5950X, btw, so quite solid.
Also swapped out my Phanteks Glacier GPU for a matching Optimus GPU block. This thing is hella overengineered, but it's really attractive and performance is demonstrably better than my Phanteks block (but not enough to justify the price on its own). 5lbs for the block alone. 😯
Optimus CPU block - https://optimuspc.com/products/foundation-cpu-block-amd?variant=31139815718995
Optimus GPU block - https://optimuspc.com/products/absolute-gpu-block-strix-3080-3090
Oh and I took the opportunity to redo the piping on the bottom, eliminating quite a bit of hardware by adding a small bump in the tubing that allows for the 90-degree turn into the bottom radiator to be straight enough for the fitting to tighten. This was an issue before that I solved by adding a bunch of hardware that wasn't necessary, but I was too tired to think well about my options. Reduced hardware means a lighter rig that also looks better. I wanted minimum hardware and that's what I was able to achieve.
I've also found myself slowly but surely running fewer and fewer LEDs on. I guess it was one of those things were you can quickly hit an amount that is no longer tasteful. I really like this look with just the mobo lights and fan lights with nothing else. Gives me Stormtrooper/Death Star hallway vibes for some reason.
Last thing to really do is tune the CPU, as my ram has been tuned for a long time. I just couldn't be bothered to understand all of these AMD CPU OC options. I'll get to it...one day. 🙄
Anyway, a few pics (just filled loop). Pardon the quality, my iPhone is aging. Very happy with my bending skills, but I hope to not have to do more for a long time. Cleaning acrylic shavings is zzzzzzzzzz.
Current CPU temp range after 5 or 6 hours: min 37C, max 73C, average 46C. This is a 5950X, btw, so quite solid.
Also swapped out my Phanteks Glacier GPU for a matching Optimus GPU block. This thing is hella overengineered, but it's really attractive and performance is demonstrably better than my Phanteks block (but not enough to justify the price on its own). 5lbs for the block alone. 😯
Optimus CPU block - https://optimuspc.com/products/foundation-cpu-block-amd?variant=31139815718995
Optimus GPU block - https://optimuspc.com/products/absolute-gpu-block-strix-3080-3090
Oh and I took the opportunity to redo the piping on the bottom, eliminating quite a bit of hardware by adding a small bump in the tubing that allows for the 90-degree turn into the bottom radiator to be straight enough for the fitting to tighten. This was an issue before that I solved by adding a bunch of hardware that wasn't necessary, but I was too tired to think well about my options. Reduced hardware means a lighter rig that also looks better. I wanted minimum hardware and that's what I was able to achieve.
I've also found myself slowly but surely running fewer and fewer LEDs on. I guess it was one of those things were you can quickly hit an amount that is no longer tasteful. I really like this look with just the mobo lights and fan lights with nothing else. Gives me Stormtrooper/Death Star hallway vibes for some reason.
Last thing to really do is tune the CPU, as my ram has been tuned for a long time. I just couldn't be bothered to understand all of these AMD CPU OC options. I'll get to it...one day. 🙄
Anyway, a few pics (just filled loop). Pardon the quality, my iPhone is aging. Very happy with my bending skills, but I hope to not have to do more for a long time. Cleaning acrylic shavings is zzzzzzzzzz.
I'm shopping around for PC components for a new build and came across this deal for a PSW.
https://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX00113216
$99 CAD for a 750W modular PSW seems like a good deal but then I came across this video.
Seems like Memory Express is offloading these busted PSWs knowing they're defective. What a scumbag move.
https://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX00113216
$99 CAD for a 750W modular PSW seems like a good deal but then I came across this video.
Seems like Memory Express is offloading these busted PSWs knowing they're defective. What a scumbag move.
Outside of Seasonic Focus/Primes the other notable one is Corsair AX Platinum.
Probably want to check with customer support, but I imagine a late 2019 purchase would be on the new revision.
omg this is beautiful... how did you pull off the precision acrylic bends, and how many failed attempts were there?Welp, random rig updates: I swapped out my EK monoblock for a normal CPU block from Optimus (dem kings). Temps are current -10C on the minimum, and -17C on the maximum. I'm pretty sure I won't be going with a monoblock again, despite its attractive appearance (to my eyes, anyway). It's possible that my install wasn't perfect, but the low temps were fairly typical and the max temps were higher than I wanted to see but not unusual in so far as I'm aware. In the end, the normal CPU block is easier to install and easier to maintain and perform maintenance on (monoblock removal for cleaning or w/e requires removal of the entire motherboard from the chassis to remove several screws from the back), and looks hella mature.
Current CPU temp range after 5 or 6 hours: min 37C, max 73C, average 46C. This is a 5950X, btw, so quite solid.
Also swapped out my Phanteks Glacier GPU for a matching Optimus GPU block. This thing is hella overengineered, but it's really attractive and performance is demonstrably better than my Phanteks block (but not enough to justify the price on its own). 5lbs for the block alone. 😯
Optimus CPU block - https://optimuspc.com/products/foundation-cpu-block-amd?variant=31139815718995
Optimus GPU block - https://optimuspc.com/products/absolute-gpu-block-strix-3080-3090
Oh and I took the opportunity to redo the piping on the bottom, eliminating quite a bit of hardware by adding a small bump in the tubing that allows for the 90-degree turn into the bottom radiator to be straight enough for the fitting to tighten. This was an issue before that I solved by adding a bunch of hardware that wasn't necessary, but I was too tired to think well about my options. Reduced hardware means a lighter rig that also looks better. I wanted minimum hardware and that's what I was able to achieve.
I've also found myself slowly but surely running fewer and fewer LEDs on. I guess it was one of those things were you can quickly hit an amount that is no longer tasteful. I really like this look with just the mobo lights and fan lights with nothing else. Gives me Stormtrooper/Death Star hallway vibes for some reason.
Last thing to really do is tune the CPU, as my ram has been tuned for a long time. I just couldn't be bothered to understand all of these AMD CPU OC options. I'll get to it...one day. 🙄
Anyway, a few pics (just filled loop). Pardon the quality, my iPhone is aging. Very happy with my bending skills, but I hope to not have to do more for a long time. Cleaning acrylic shavings is zzzzzzzzzz.
will be doing my new loop at the end of September once my EKWB 3090 FE active backplate finally arrives... same case, same mobo, but with the side plate, EK rads, and a vertically mounted GPU with two other cards also on the vertical bracket behind it. Should be wild.
tyvm!
You know it wasn't too bad, really.
Mostly just a ruler and an idea of what I wanted to do in my mind. I went through 7x 39" (1000mm) tubes. I didn't really have many fails actually. Maybe 4 or 5. More, I just kept being dissatisfied about small imperfections or the angle of a bend so I'd just do it again. Most bends were by hand and fairly easy since most were duplicates. Just had to match.
Took maybe 3 hours, I'd say + the air pressure leak tests.
I'll try to borrow my brother's camera for some better pictures. This old iPhone is cheeks.
looks like the Nvidia gaming bundle will be back soon...Battlefield 2042 apparently will be the new bundle starting soon for 3070 and higher cards
I have a dilemma.
I've been using 1080ti for several years and it is still going strong. However, last week I've got 65c1 and I just hate not having vrr and not being able to play in 4k/120 (older games ofc). I also want dlss and rtx.
3080 is too expensive here (1400+). However, 3070ti is around 1000e. I could sell my 1080ti for 650, so I would have to add 350 to get 3070ti.
After that, I would probably wait another year or two to do a next major upgrade (4xxx ti probably).
Would this be considered an upgrade as I would be losing 3gb of vram?
I really want to use those additional features.
I've been using 1080ti for several years and it is still going strong. However, last week I've got 65c1 and I just hate not having vrr and not being able to play in 4k/120 (older games ofc). I also want dlss and rtx.
3080 is too expensive here (1400+). However, 3070ti is around 1000e. I could sell my 1080ti for 650, so I would have to add 350 to get 3070ti.
After that, I would probably wait another year or two to do a next major upgrade (4xxx ti probably).
Would this be considered an upgrade as I would be losing 3gb of vram?
I really want to use those additional features.
Yeah I don't understand why people waste their time with PETG honestly, acrylic may be more challenging but it's far from impossible, and if something goes wrong with the loop and it gets hot due to pump failure or something, the tubes won't melt lol
You are going to be see a massive upgrade even if the 1080Ti is still a monster. The VRAM is fine, on games that you can reliably get 4K 120 it's not going to be an issue. Other times you are likely going to be relying on DLSS, or run games at sub native resolution which still will look great at TV viewing distance, which cuts down VRAM usage anyway.
if you have something to use right now, I'd say wait a little longer if possible, we're gonna get Alder Lake cpus with DDR5 and PCIe gen 5 support soon.
I would suggest replacing the cpu with i5-11400f which is both cheaper and performs better in games, though difference is probably gonna be negligible with 3060 Ti. notice though if you decided to go with it, you need to get a good mobo to run at full power.
edit:
Generally speaking performance jump is big, but it depends on what gpu you will pair with it, and at what resolution you will play. the higher your target resolution, the smaller the difference. still worth it though in my opinion.
Those 3GB vram are almost meaningless as 1080 Ti is not strong enough to make use of them at 4K. the 3070 Ti will outperform it in every game, especially with DLSS. maybe 8GB vram is not really ideal for 4k long term but if you are planning to upgrade again with a 4xxx gpu when they release, then 3070 Ti is gonna be more than fine. remember when people said 10gb for 3080 won't be enough in a year or so? well, already a year has passed and nothing has changed at all, 8gb is still enough for most games at 4k for now, though obviously its not gonna be ideal at that resolution a few years down the road.
If you want it, get it, your performance will surely improve.
For me, 4k is still very expensive on PC. 4k monitors with high refresh rate are expensive, and 60 fps feels kinda a waste for a new GPU honestly, and if you set in front of your computer, 4k will matter even less. 4k is also very taxing, and no matter what gpu you get right now or even next year, you would still feel the need to upgrade as soon as possible as the performance isn't there yet especially when enabling RT effects.
I'm eyeing a few 1440p options right now as i feel they are the sweet spot between performance/picture quality/price for PC right now, and might get a LG OLED tv next year or so for your occasional AAA single player game when you just want the eye candy, feels more logical to me.
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Thanks. I thought about it again and I think will just not upgrade anything until I can get a GPU for a normal price. Whenever that may be.
Yeah do it, its a solid 30% upgrade, even if less RAM. Plus you get RTX and DLSS.
I went from a 1080Ti to a 3070 (non-Ti) and the upgrade was still massive. Back in 2018, the jump from 1080Ti to 2080Ti wasn't big, but now there's at least 30% performance gains, and that is the difference between a locked 60 at 4K (or higher) and several dips.
Resident Evil 2 Remake at 4K for example, I needed to drop several settings to get a locked 60 at native 2160p. With the 3070 I just needed to drop volumetrics from Max to High and that's it. That's all the tweaking I needed for a locked 60 (my 4K TV is 60Hz so I don't push further even if I could).
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1080Ti to 3070 is quite close to 50% in many games due to architecture advancements, and on top of that you have DLSS to push things even further. For me going from a 1080 is nearly doubling performance in many games.
i just want to get my hands on a 3070 FE. My jump would be from a 980Ti to a 3070, so I'm quite sure I'd notice a difference. Alas *waves hand across a landscape bereft of opportunity*
Anyone else have a weird mental block towards curved monitors? I always felt they were gimmicky and would have warped picture clarity but now there are more curved monitors than not so it's hard to find an upgrade for my monitor situation without giving up and getting a curved boi. Someone talk me out of my Luddite aversion to these things.
Just a quick question.
My uncle's PC freezes when he restarts it but when shutting it down & turning it back on its fine, Any idea what the issue could be?
CPU health and temps are fine.
GPU is running fine after stress testing it and cleaning it.
SSDs haven't shown any issues.
I have a feeling its the RAM but im not sure.
My uncle's PC freezes when he restarts it but when shutting it down & turning it back on its fine, Any idea what the issue could be?
CPU health and temps are fine.
GPU is running fine after stress testing it and cleaning it.
SSDs haven't shown any issues.
I have a feeling its the RAM but im not sure.
Honestly, I didn't get much of a difference between them. I mean you notice the curvature, but there's nothing game changer between them. They are supposed to tax your eyes less, but again, I didn't notice any difference.
Maybe there are bigger differences the larger the monitor is. I went from a 1080p 24" flat monitor, to a curved one, to a 1440p 27" flat monitor, and the flat to curve to flat was the thing I noticed the least. So if it's all you can get, you're not going to miss anything from either one. I'd say just make sure that the angle of vision is the same across the board and go for it.
It's probably a RAM issue or maybe a windows install problem too. It's a weird issue surely
I upgraded to a larger curved monitor last year (Dell - S3220DGF 32") and for me at least you just stop noticing it's different after a while. Love the monitor, btw. I wanted a VA panel for the contrast and black levels. The viewing angles for VA aren't the greatest, but the curve helps keep you in the sweet spot across the whole panel.
I assuming this is Windows 10? I don't know the cause but it might help your troubleshooting to know that with Windows 10 shutting down and turning back on is basically just hibernating the machine. It doesn't go through the full shutdown and boot process. This is one reason boot times are so quick. Whereas a restart causes Windows to completely shut down and then reload from scratch. So whatever problem your uncle is having probably has to do with starting Windows from scratch.
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Yeah, it's windows 10, my bad for not mentioning that.
and I see exactly what you are talking about with it shutting down and booting up so fast. We did a fresh windows 10 install as well.
Welp, random rig updates: I swapped out my EK monoblock for a normal CPU block from Optimus (dem kings). Temps are current -10C on the minimum, and -17C on the maximum. I'm pretty sure I won't be going with a monoblock again, despite its attractive appearance (to my eyes, anyway). It's possible that my install wasn't perfect, but the low temps were fairly typical and the max temps were higher than I wanted to see but not unusual in so far as I'm aware. In the end, the normal CPU block is easier to install and easier to maintain and perform maintenance on (monoblock removal for cleaning or w/e requires removal of the entire motherboard from the chassis to remove several screws from the back), and looks hella mature.
Current CPU temp range after 5 or 6 hours: min 37C, max 73C, average 46C. This is a 5950X, btw, so quite solid.
Also swapped out my Phanteks Glacier GPU for a matching Optimus GPU block. This thing is hella overengineered, but it's really attractive and performance is demonstrably better than my Phanteks block (but not enough to justify the price on its own). 5lbs for the block alone. 😯
Optimus CPU block - https://optimuspc.com/products/foundation-cpu-block-amd?variant=31139815718995
Optimus GPU block - https://optimuspc.com/products/absolute-gpu-block-strix-3080-3090
Oh and I took the opportunity to redo the piping on the bottom, eliminating quite a bit of hardware by adding a small bump in the tubing that allows for the 90-degree turn into the bottom radiator to be straight enough for the fitting to tighten. This was an issue before that I solved by adding a bunch of hardware that wasn't necessary, but I was too tired to think well about my options. Reduced hardware means a lighter rig that also looks better. I wanted minimum hardware and that's what I was able to achieve.
I've also found myself slowly but surely running fewer and fewer LEDs on. I guess it was one of those things were you can quickly hit an amount that is no longer tasteful. I really like this look with just the mobo lights and fan lights with nothing else. Gives me Stormtrooper/Death Star hallway vibes for some reason.
Last thing to really do is tune the CPU, as my ram has been tuned for a long time. I just couldn't be bothered to understand all of these AMD CPU OC options. I'll get to it...one day. 🙄
Anyway, a few pics (just filled loop). Pardon the quality, my iPhone is aging. Very happy with my bending skills, but I hope to not have to do more for a long time. Cleaning acrylic shavings is zzzzzzzzzz.
Nice, looks great. I'm waiting on the Optimus and XL backplate for my 80Ti FTW3 - should be here early next month. If I end up going to 12th gen from my 10850K I'll get their V2 as well and may switch even if I don't (currently on EK Quantum Velocity).
Deciding whether to go 1080p or 1440p with a monitor. I have limited space so a 24/5" 1080p monitor would fit best. I also don't plan on upgrading my RX580 to more than a 3060 (ti if I could but..) level card so maybe 1080p is best? I'll also be hooking a Super NT or Mega SG up to it. Plus I can get a Dell s2522 or Alienware 2521 240hz for $350-400cdn all in right now.
But 1440p would be nice for work stuff and for games if I wanna bring my series x upstairs to play on it. Plus Ive had a 1080p monitor since 2011 so… kinda feels due for a major upgrade. Worried how the 1080p content will look on it though plus I'd need more horsepower to run it. Plus it's physically bigger and my desk is literally in half a closet haha
But 1440p would be nice for work stuff and for games if I wanna bring my series x upstairs to play on it. Plus Ive had a 1080p monitor since 2011 so… kinda feels due for a major upgrade. Worried how the 1080p content will look on it though plus I'd need more horsepower to run it. Plus it's physically bigger and my desk is literally in half a closet haha
What do you look for in a PC case?
Right now I have my eyes set on Fractal Design Meshify C Mini. Reviews have very few bad things to say about it so at this point I just want it because it looks aesthetically pleasing. Is this a good way to go about it or should I expand my horizons? My next build at this point might be with a micro ATX mobo so I'm looking for a micro ATX case mind you.
Right now I have my eyes set on Fractal Design Meshify C Mini. Reviews have very few bad things to say about it so at this point I just want it because it looks aesthetically pleasing. Is this a good way to go about it or should I expand my horizons? My next build at this point might be with a micro ATX mobo so I'm looking for a micro ATX case mind you.
Check out the SFFPC thread:
Small Form Factor "Gaming" PC Thread (AKA HTPC) OT
Here are some useful resources that could be included in the OT whenever OP is unbanned and decides to update: SFF List - Google Sheets: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1AddRvGWJ_f4B6UC7_IftDiVudVc8CJ8sxLUqlxVsCz4/edit#gid=1459265577 A well curated spreadsheet with separate sheets for...
www.resetera.com
Did your friend already have any parts they can reuse? Right now graphics cards are hard to find or overpriced, so they would be spending over half of that $1200 budget on that alone.
How small would they want to go? Sub 10L? If they are ok with slightly bigger, the NR200 is an excellent emery into the world is SFFPC.