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The PC Builders Thread ("I Need a New PC") v3
- Thread starter Crazymoogle
- Start date
- PC Tech OT
Luckily in my situation, I don't keep EGS games installed and I also don't use Game Pass.
Small SSD these days buying new makes little sense as 1TB is so much more cost effective. You can just partition it so the OS/software driver takes up say, 200GB.
I'm pretty sure I didn't have to re-download my EGS games when I built a new rig back in March. Installed Windows from scratch on a new M.2 and pointed EGS client at the folder on the D: drive (SATA SSD) and was able to play a game (THPS 1&2) without re-downloading the whole thing. Might have had to do a discovery or verify or something but definitely didn't have to redownload the whole thing. I wouldn't have done it since I already finished that game. Maybe I'm completely wrong but I don't think so.
You're right about the MS store games, which is why I just keep those on C:.
My O11D XL came with an anti-sag bracket which is holding up that chonky set of fins quite well, and will continue to do so until the EK active backplate arrives and I do my loop.
It's quite an elegant solution too, the bracket is held up by a couple of the motherboard standoffs on the other end from the card slots.
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The GB-001 right?
I bought the bracket recently and it's really clever, fitting behind the GPU allowance so really no GPU out there should have a problem with it. Overlapped the X570 GAMING WIFI PLUS no problem despite going overtop of the chipset (but not the fan) and the M.2 slot (filled).
That being said...it's unusable for me. Why? Because it has no horizontal adjustment, the whole trick is that it's a tiny little L bracket that intends to rest against the housing of the GPU shell. On a triple-fan card like a 3080, that means roughly against the middle fan, but hopefully on the casing and not the fan itself. I think on a flat/blocky card like the FTW3 or FE it would do great because it can press against the housing and not the fan. For the Zotac 3080, their cards are all sculpted to basically make the fans stick out from the housing...so the GB-001 would press against the fan and...obviously that doesn't work. Cool idea though
Is upgrading from a 3600 to 5600x or 5800x worth it if I am playing 1440p or higher on everything? This includes a 1440p monitor, 4K tv, and a quest 2 headset. I'm assuming it makes more sense to upgrade my 1660ti to a 3070 or higher first.
Yeah, I didn't either. It's not as easy as with Steam games, but EGS does recognize and allow to move games between drive with a few extra steps.
While the 5600x is about 20 to 30% better in games and the 5800x is not that much faster, the extra cores/threads will help you in multitasking and overall user experience. Also it might come in handy playing the longevity game,
For what it's worth, I'm currently on a 3600 and a 3070 and it pairs well at 1440p monitor and also a 4K TV. Maybe it's better for you to upgrade the GPU and see if you are falling short on what you play. But I wouldn't upgrade to a 5600x personally, even if its really fast compared, 6 cores to 6 cores when we are transitioning in generations doesn't seem a good idea for the long term and I'd better wait to see if games like Battlefield 2042 take advantage of extra core builds before making a decision
Good advice. I will just wait on finding a 3070 or higher in the near future.
Days Gone, RE Village, Ass Creed Valhalla, Watch Dogs Legion, Cyberpunk, RDR2 but obviously depends what kind of games you're into.
I think it can only use Precision right? And yea I hate X1. My EVGA has a waterblock so thankfully I can use ASUS Aura to control.
Ah yeah. Guess I just got lucky with the 2080 Ti FE stock cooler, the EK block for it and now the 3090 FE stock cooler all working perfectly with it. When I slap on my EK block to the 3090 FE I'm going vertical, so won't need to worry about sag at all after that.
Anyone has experiences with NZXT power supplies? I'm eyeing this one
I have currently a 3600 and an RTX 3070 FTW3 Ultra, with a 600W beQuiet! Pure Power 11 PSU. Though I should be okay in wattage, the GPU has a higher TDP and I think I'm too on the edge with the current PSU. The other day I had a crash in Hellblade, and though it can be anything, you know what, I think I should upgrade to be safe. Specially if in the future I upgrade the CPU
That NZXT unit seems to be in the A tier in the PSU Tier List at LTT, but I would like more opinions before buying it. Or if there is any alternative I should be aware of in the same price range
Yeah, it really sucks. I have an FTW3 Ultra and it's so beautiful but I can't match it with the rest in the RGB in the case because I'm controlling those from the ASUS motherboard. I left the 3070 with a "cinema listing" white.
Amazon.com: NZXT C850 - NP-C850M - 850 Watt PSU - 80+ Gold Certified - Hybrid Silent Fan Control - Fluid Dynamic Bearings - Modular Design - Sleeved Cables - ATX Gaming Power Supply - 10 Year Warranty: Computers & Accessories
Amazon.com: NZXT C850 - NP-C850M - 850 Watt PSU - 80+ Gold Certified - Hybrid Silent Fan Control - Fluid Dynamic Bearings - Modular Design - Sleeved Cables - ATX Gaming Power Supply - 10 Year Warranty: Computers & Accessories
www.amazon.com
I have currently a 3600 and an RTX 3070 FTW3 Ultra, with a 600W beQuiet! Pure Power 11 PSU. Though I should be okay in wattage, the GPU has a higher TDP and I think I'm too on the edge with the current PSU. The other day I had a crash in Hellblade, and though it can be anything, you know what, I think I should upgrade to be safe. Specially if in the future I upgrade the CPU
That NZXT unit seems to be in the A tier in the PSU Tier List at LTT, but I would like more opinions before buying it. Or if there is any alternative I should be aware of in the same price range
Yeah, it really sucks. I have an FTW3 Ultra and it's so beautiful but I can't match it with the rest in the RGB in the case because I'm controlling those from the ASUS motherboard. I left the 3070 with a "cinema listing" white.
For folks sticking with X570 for the next few years, is anyone planning on upgrading to the 3D V-cache version of the Ryzen 5000 series. I'm wanting to go all out and get the V-cache version of the 5950X. It'll be a great upgrade over my current 3900X. I'll also invest in a completely unnecessary kit of low latency Samsung B-Die ram.
I'm not personally planning on completely replacing my Desktop for a number of years, so I'd rather focus on the best parts I can get that support my current motherboard.
On a separate note, how do people here feel about running the FCLK on Ryzen CPUs at 2000Mhz? I've read mixed opinions on how stable such a high FCLK overclock is. I ask because G.Skill sells a two dimm 32GB kit of ram that runs at 4000cl14, which is insane!
I'm not personally planning on completely replacing my Desktop for a number of years, so I'd rather focus on the best parts I can get that support my current motherboard.
On a separate note, how do people here feel about running the FCLK on Ryzen CPUs at 2000Mhz? I've read mixed opinions on how stable such a high FCLK overclock is. I ask because G.Skill sells a two dimm 32GB kit of ram that runs at 4000cl14, which is insane!
I was kidding but you'd have to switch to a water cooled setup and then your 3070 cooler comes off, a waterblock with RGB goes on and you plug it into your mobo.
Oh so that's what it was, I though I was being stupid and overlooking a simple solution lol
Random crashes on XCOM 2 over the last couple weeks.
Current specs: 5900X, 3080FTW, MSI X570 Tomahawk, H100i platinum AIO cooler, Lian Li 011D case (side and bottom fans set to intake, top to exhaust)
Figured it was something temp related with summer heat ramping up, so I ran half an hour of Cinebench and my CPU temp maxed at 71C according to HWinfo. Shut it down, let it sit for a little bit, then booted up and tried Unigine Heaven to see how my GPU was holding up. Even though my utilization was only showing 7%, my CPU immediately jumped to 75C. Within 20 mins the CPU had hit 90 and crashed the program. (My GPU topped out in the low 70s.)
Haven't touched anything on the CPU or GPU for overclocking or anything. Trying to decide on next course of action. Why would Heaven spike my CPU temps more than Cinebench? I know the 100i is just a 240mm cooler, so upgrading to a 360 seems logical, but not sure if there's something easier I'm missing that could be causing the issue.
Current specs: 5900X, 3080FTW, MSI X570 Tomahawk, H100i platinum AIO cooler, Lian Li 011D case (side and bottom fans set to intake, top to exhaust)
Figured it was something temp related with summer heat ramping up, so I ran half an hour of Cinebench and my CPU temp maxed at 71C according to HWinfo. Shut it down, let it sit for a little bit, then booted up and tried Unigine Heaven to see how my GPU was holding up. Even though my utilization was only showing 7%, my CPU immediately jumped to 75C. Within 20 mins the CPU had hit 90 and crashed the program. (My GPU topped out in the low 70s.)
Haven't touched anything on the CPU or GPU for overclocking or anything. Trying to decide on next course of action. Why would Heaven spike my CPU temps more than Cinebench? I know the 100i is just a 240mm cooler, so upgrading to a 360 seems logical, but not sure if there's something easier I'm missing that could be causing the issue.
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OpenRGB is apparently quite good at this point; it's an OSS app for controlling different RGB architectures. Not the most user-friendly thing in the world to setup, but there are some youtube videos out there on it. I'm planning on installing it again soon because I want to stay a million miles away from Asus AURA.
I'm definitely considering it. Really depends on the performance impact, but AMD is positioning it as a gaming benefit. I'm just sticking with my current DDR4-3600 CL16 setup for RAM though; the (3rd party) Ryzen memory tuning app is really cool but since I have to combo games with work I just don't have confidence in pumping FCLK and latencies for what is usually very little benefit when you already have a great GPU/CPU combo.
- Any interesting eventviewer crash information?
- Can't really talk to the 5900X or watercooling, although I would triplecheck that everything is plugged in and reporting to the motherboard BIOS properly
- My 5800X can hit 90 if I hit it hard enough, although it just straight up won't crash; even if it hit 95 it would just throttle. So in that sense I would be curious about the thermal interface (is the AIO working? is it transferring the heat properly?) and the VRMs (are the VRMs having problems or a lack of cooling?). Like if you pointed a fan at the VRMs does it still crash?
- Are you doing any kind of OC, to CPU/RAM/GPU?
Oh awesome! I'll check it out. Thanks for the heads up!
Edit: Ah, damn. 30XX cards aren't supported yet so it looks like I'm stuck with X1 for now. Will definitely keep an eye out for future releases though!
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CPU and GPU both stock, I turned off PBO, balanced power setting in Windows. RAM is using the xmp profile but I guess I should try that at default also. The AIO seems to be working, fans are all going and the telemetry reads the pump as operating. The CPU temp is a gradual ramp up from 70 to 90. Checking event viewer is next on my list after work.
Many months later and I managed to get one. Thank fuck for that.
Now I can finally start building my new gaming rig. Updates and questions soon.
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Hey I noticed in precision X1 that my os is in legacy bios. Welp I know noting about legacy or UEFI mode so I was wondering how much this would affect my performance and if I should change to UEFI mode?
It probably wouldn't affect performance much on its own, but the newer UEFI BIOS may expose settings for certain technologies that could have a small impact such as "Resizable BAR".
If you decide to switch, please do some research first on the problems you might encounter. Windows may not boot after you switch depending on certain settings such as whether the partitions are MBR or GPT but there are tools available for this. I'm sure there are walkthroughs online since many gamers switched to UEFI and GPT to gain access to "ReBAR" earlier this year.
Been wondering about power supply all day, and I think I'm hitting a wall and instead of deciding on which PSU I rather ask you, knowledgable people, if I actually should change the PSU or not. Here's the deal
Currently:
Ryzen 5 3600
Asus x570 Prime P
2x8gb 3200 Mhz RAM
RTX 3070 EVGA FTW3 Ultra
Nvme Adata SX8200 Pro
Seagate 2tb 7200rpm
5 case fans + hub, wlan pcie card
I'm on a beQuiet! Pure Power 11 600W Gold PSU. Since the GPU has a tdp of 270w and recommends a 650w I was thinking about going for a higher PSU. Wondering if it would be actually better going 750w or 850w, or maybe I am overthinking and I'm just fine with what I have.
I might upgrade to a 5800x in the future, can't be sure if I'd swap the 3070 for something else, but I guess it would also be a good idea to not having to change the PSU by then too again, right?
What would you do in my case?
Currently:
Ryzen 5 3600
Asus x570 Prime P
2x8gb 3200 Mhz RAM
RTX 3070 EVGA FTW3 Ultra
Nvme Adata SX8200 Pro
Seagate 2tb 7200rpm
5 case fans + hub, wlan pcie card
I'm on a beQuiet! Pure Power 11 600W Gold PSU. Since the GPU has a tdp of 270w and recommends a 650w I was thinking about going for a higher PSU. Wondering if it would be actually better going 750w or 850w, or maybe I am overthinking and I'm just fine with what I have.
I might upgrade to a 5800x in the future, can't be sure if I'd swap the 3070 for something else, but I guess it would also be a good idea to not having to change the PSU by then too again, right?
What would you do in my case?
Anyone know if an EK waterblock for my 3080 would do better than the Barrow one I have now? I have an EVGA 3080FTW3 Ultra that I have on water. The temps are good in everything but mining. Then my GDD66X hits 110c and things throttle. I added thermal pads to the back of the card, but no dice. Would swapping out my block for and EK one make any appreciable difference? I got the Barrow once cause it was my first time building a custom loop, and it was less expensive than the EK one, and it was available.
750 or 850 would future proof you some if you do decide to upgrade your video card in the future. But if it's working fine for you now, and you're not seeing any instability, there's no reason why you can't get a new power supply when you go to upgrade your parts down the line either.
Not sure there's much to be gleaned from it but the crashes in event viewer point to d3d11.dll, ntdll.dll, and kernelbase.dll. Exception code for the first two is 0xc0000005, for the last it's 0x00000001. Not quite sure what any of that means tbh. Probably also worth noting that the crashes are just to desktop and the offending program is closed.
Man, I'm currently in the process of building my PC, and I'm so incredibly lost. I've got an NZXT HZ510 Elite case with an Asus ROG CROSSHAIR VIII Dark Hero motherboard. I have 2 remaining cords from the case that need to be plugged into the motherboard but I can't for the life of me figure out where they go.
One of them I believe is for the fans in the case, the other for the LEDs maybe? No clue. The instructions aren't helping, where do these things to!
I can provide more pictures if that helps.
One of them I believe is for the fans in the case, the other for the LEDs maybe? No clue. The instructions aren't helping, where do these things to!
I can provide more pictures if that helps.
Looks like RGB, there should be a graphic with descriptors in the manual of your mainboard that tells you the plug.
This looks like it would be a connector to plug a fan into. It might come from a fan controller that might have been shipped with the case, or perhaps a pass-through connector from another fan.
The fan power and rgb headers on your board should be pins, and these are also pins not receptors so they don't plug into the motherboard and instead plug into cables from your fans or led strips. Looking it up, your case come with a fan/led controller called the "smart device" or whatever nzxt calls them and these cables are probably for connecting more fans and led strips to that device. You can probably check your manual for a better description on what the case has in terms of fans and led strips as these cables may not be necessary if you don't have extra fans and strips you want to install.
I really couldn't find anything in the instructions.. lol. Either way thanks, I guess I don't need those 2 cords.
So I carried on and put my GPU in Gigabyte 3070. Plug in with HDMI and I'm not getting any picture on my monitor. I can't try the display port as I don't have cables or a monitor that supports it. Any guesses what could cause this?
The fans are spinning the LEDs are glowing, just no picture.
Your motherboard should have a code above the ram on the top right of your board to help troubleshoot if it's a booting problem.
Yeah 0d.. which means reserved for future Ami SEC error codes
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The 4pin cable is for 12V RGB, an older standard. Since the pins are male, it's a passthrough, basically just for daisychaining so if you had even more fans they could link together. That being said, 4pin RGB fans are rare these days so just ignore it. The second one looks like a 3pin fan cable, but again, it's male so it's just a passthrough. Can just ignore them.
Did you plug in power to the 3070? The card itself should have a couple of plug headers on the side that need to be connected to corresponding cables from the power supply. If your motherboard troubleshooting lights stop at the GPU this is usually the reason why (modern GPUs will not even boot unless they are getting power input on the plugs)
Yeah I plugged it in, for reference
Thats what my motherboard says
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I just looked at the DARK HERO VIII manual and the POST light (the yellow) is on your RAM.
How is your RAM setup? From the photo it looks like you filled slot 4 (furthest right) and maybe slot 1 (but it's under the heatsink so I can't tell). These boards require that you fill the slots in alternating order, so either 1-3 or 2-4. If you have only one RAM DIMM then it should go into slot 2 (second from the left)
Try two dedicated cables (not the split cable). From experience, my brother's old temporary 670 did not display with a single split power cable running to it.
edit: here is some info with some specific info from Nvidia in the comments
this may not be the case, since those old 600 series cards were extremely inefficient when compared to current cards, but may be worth a shot if you are stuck
If you have 2 sticks of ram, they probably need to be in slots 2 and 4(counting from left to right). If 1 stick, move it to slot 2.
EDIT: good, that it's fixed
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The king of PC air compressors is the MetroVac ED500ESD. All-metal construction, loud as hell but also the most powerful model available short of an actual compressor. Many people just buy the normal ED500 since ESD risk is not huge, but the ESD model does include attachments that are all electrostatically safe. I ended up buying one because my Lancool 2 Mesh is just overkill on airflow. It's a total replacement for canned air, and it's built to sell out of a hardware store.
Some youtubers swear by the EasyGo compucleaner, which is obviously cheaper but also less powerful, so ymmv.
Is a normal compressor something that works if you set it low enough (like, super low)? I am not going to be putting the nozzle in a PC or anything, more just running it over vents (from a distance_ on my router and other self-contained devices.
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Probably? These PC compressors literally just have on/off buttons, and are strong enough to push half the fans in my case, but they don't blow off components. I guess if the compressor is very strong it could loosen cables, but you can just judge by distance. The selling point for PC compressors is that they include the tools you need, which your compressor may not have, like a keyboard brush and angled small ends to get an output more like canned air.
(The MetroVac is rated at 0.75 horsepower, for comparison)
Yeah I guess you are right. Doing the math, seems like I'm at 75% usage of my current power supply, which even if it's not the ideal in efficiency, it's enough power for now. I'll do it if I change the CPU to a 5800x no matter what though.
They'll both be fine so it's down to aesthetics. I think the 011 XL looks better but I also find both to be kind of unoriginal and boring. Pretty sure 97% of new air builds in the past few years are using the 011 or 011 XL. There are so many options with cases but I understand people want something functional that's also easy to build in for first-timers and 011 is clearly one of the best.
Probably not and I wouldn't necessarily worry about the mem junction temps - they're high for everyone. EK is releasing an active backplate which you can preorder now and that'll probably help.
If you want to switch from EK, Optimus is the way to go. Probably the best block on the market: https://optimuspc.com/products/absolute-gpu-block-ftw3-3080-3090
There will be a drop at 12pm Eastern tomorrow and you may be able to snag one with the thick backplate. Only downside is it's expensive as hell.
I already have the EK for my recently-acquired 3080Ti FTW3 but haven't put it on yet. I'm going to try and score an Optimus tomorrow and will sell the EK if I can get it.
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