Yes, in fact most PC cases should have 2.5" drive bays as standard. You could also link your windows activation to a Microsoft account and use that to activate Windows if you install it somewhere else.
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The PC Builders Thread ("I Need a New PC") v3
- Thread starter Crazymoogle
- Start date
- PC Tech OT
Yes, in fact most PC cases should have 2.5" drive bays as standard. You could also link your windows activation to a Microsoft account and use that to activate Windows if you install it somewhere else.
Hey peeps, looking for some help/advice.
I built this PC back in 2014 and currently using a VG248QE monitor at 1080p.
I have made some improvements over the years, like adding 16GB more data (which I could swear was clocked at 2400Mhz) 5 years ago, changing the GPU to this one 4 years ago, and adding the second SSD 3 years ago. I have not made any change since.
I am considering getting a 3080 once stock improves, and also upgrading to an LG 27GL850-B Quad HD 27'' monitor, to game at 1440p.
But I am also wondering if a GPU is enough to keep my system for another 5 years and last me for the new console generation. I'd prefer not to go and do a complete system rebuild.
Any ideas?
PS: System is not allowing me to add a picture on the board, so here's the imgur link:
I built this PC back in 2014 and currently using a VG248QE monitor at 1080p.
I have made some improvements over the years, like adding 16GB more data (which I could swear was clocked at 2400Mhz) 5 years ago, changing the GPU to this one 4 years ago, and adding the second SSD 3 years ago. I have not made any change since.
I am considering getting a 3080 once stock improves, and also upgrading to an LG 27GL850-B Quad HD 27'' monitor, to game at 1440p.
But I am also wondering if a GPU is enough to keep my system for another 5 years and last me for the new console generation. I'd prefer not to go and do a complete system rebuild.
Any ideas?
PS: System is not allowing me to add a picture on the board, so here's the imgur link:
Opinions on this PSU? Might be able to grab one
antec.com
Rated A on the LTT Tier (except if it's the Chinese model, which is a D Tier)
The EAG PRO 750W WHITE is the 80 PLUS Gold Semi-Modular PSU and best 750w psu with 750W/120mm silent fan/Japanese Caps/7-Year Warranty - Antec
The EarthWattts Gold po sie features high performance with an 8o plus@ Gold rating, delivering up to 92% efficiency and reducing your electricity bil. Featuring hybrid modular cabling, a whisper-quiet 120mm fan controlled by Antec＇s renowned Thermal Manager, and CircuitShield" Industrial Grade...
Rated A on the LTT Tier (except if it's the Chinese model, which is a D Tier)
I have a random issue that I ran into that I never have with a build before and I'm wondering what the best fix is.
I have i7-8700K build from about two years back that I swapped a 3080 into yesterday. As part of that I wanted to jump from 16 gb of RAM to 32 (mostly to be able to throw more RAM at Flight Sim). I had two 8 gb sticks in there and purchased two more to add to my two empty slots. What I discovered though was that my CPU air cooler blocks the slot just enough to not let me use it. This is an issue with the height to the bottom of the fan. What is my best way to fix this? I figure my options are to try and find a fan with more clearance, buy low profile RAM, or just buy two 16 gb sticks to get to 32 gb and not need the slot blocked by the cooler. I'd really like to avoid buying new RAM if possible and I figure a new cooler would be cheaper. I wasn't sure if there was some other option I was overlooking.
If you need to know the exact case, cooler, and RAM let me know and I can pull up the exact models. I hope someone can help me out and thanks in advance for your time.
I have i7-8700K build from about two years back that I swapped a 3080 into yesterday. As part of that I wanted to jump from 16 gb of RAM to 32 (mostly to be able to throw more RAM at Flight Sim). I had two 8 gb sticks in there and purchased two more to add to my two empty slots. What I discovered though was that my CPU air cooler blocks the slot just enough to not let me use it. This is an issue with the height to the bottom of the fan. What is my best way to fix this? I figure my options are to try and find a fan with more clearance, buy low profile RAM, or just buy two 16 gb sticks to get to 32 gb and not need the slot blocked by the cooler. I'd really like to avoid buying new RAM if possible and I figure a new cooler would be cheaper. I wasn't sure if there was some other option I was overlooking.
If you need to know the exact case, cooler, and RAM let me know and I can pull up the exact models. I hope someone can help me out and thanks in advance for your time.
Were I in this situation I'd probably buy a new cooler. Probably the cheapest option, as you said.
Any good way to figure out something that will give me more clearance that what I currently have?
Ryzen 7 3700x
x570 Tomahawk
Lian Li Galahad 360 AIO
G Skill Trident Z Neo 3600 (4 sticks of 16gb)
WD SN750 1TB NVME
Corsair MP600 1TB NVME
MSI 980 Ti (like most...still waiting to get a 3080)
WD Black 6TB HDD
Crucial 2TB SSD
Another 1TB SSD from my current PC
Another 3TB HDD from my current PC
Lian Li o11-Dynamic
Lian Li Uni Fans (x9)
I think I covered everything. It's a lot of storage space and I may or may not use all of it in the build.
Do you have a brand preference? Many coolers these days are designed with RAM clearance in mind, like this Be Quiet cooler that's offset. (Notice how it "leans back")
sweet. Radiator in the side intake? Seems like a lot of case fans but if you're going for that as a look it should look pretty crazy :)
So uh
I was tinkering with some stuff here to make a PC out of some old/basic components, and as soon as I put everything together and tried to boot, I got the "one long beep, two short beeps" on POST.
Upon searching, I found out that's possibly an issue with RAM. This mobo has only two RAM slots, and memory isn't being recognized in any of the slots (I tested them separately to no avail.) I tried using the RAM I use on my own PC as well; nothing.
My question is: is it common for RAM slots to fail in pairs like that? And is there any other way to test if they are busted?
I was tinkering with some stuff here to make a PC out of some old/basic components, and as soon as I put everything together and tried to boot, I got the "one long beep, two short beeps" on POST.
Upon searching, I found out that's possibly an issue with RAM. This mobo has only two RAM slots, and memory isn't being recognized in any of the slots (I tested them separately to no avail.) I tried using the RAM I use on my own PC as well; nothing.
My question is: is it common for RAM slots to fail in pairs like that? And is there any other way to test if they are busted?
Do you have a brand preference? Many coolers these days are designed with RAM clearance in mind, like this Be Quiet cooler that's offset. (Notice how it "leans back")
Nah, no brand preference really. What I have now is a "Cooler Master Hyper 212 LED CPU Cooler" with "G.Skill Ripjaws V 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 PC4-25600 CL16 Dual Channel Desktop Memory Kit F4-3200C16D-16GVKB" and it's in a "NZXT H500 Tempered Glass ATX Mid-Tower Computer Case". My only requirements are something that will fit the case (don't think that would be a big problem since it's a pretty large case), gives me the clearance for my RAM, and will cool well enough to keep the 8700K from getting too hot.
It is a bunch of fans, but that case allows for it. The extra 3 Uni fans MAY replace the fans on the AIO. As for the side intake, probably not unless the tubes can reach the bottom. Otherwise I'll go top as exhaust.
If you know your motherboard model number off-hand you can punch it into BeQuiet's motherboard compatibility tool and it'll tell you what will and won't clear your RAM slots from their available products.
If you know your motherboard model number off-hand you can punch it into BeQuiet's motherboard compatibility tool and it'll tell you what will and won't clear your RAM slots from their available products.
Thanks for this!
No problem. I decided to go with the Shadow Rock 3 cooler myself. It's probably overkill for the Ryzen 5 3600 I'll be using, but hopefully it'll last a few CPU upgrades for the next decade or so.
Are you sure that he is not using an eGPU? Because the picture you posted looks deceptively like the AORUS GTX 1070 GAMING BOX. As such the PSU would only supply power to the GPU, whereas the rest of the PC (presumably a laptop in this case) would be on a separate PSU.
Given that SSDs have no moving parts, you can honestly just let them hang out in the case without any problem. If you were going to be moving your tower around a lot, then probably best to anchor them somewhere, but otherwise they can just sit on whatever internal surface is convenient.
Sheesh almost had panic attack. I went away for a bit and came back to see that my PC had turned off. I thought something was wrong with it and felt a bit panicky as I build it just over two weeks ago (my first build) but it turns out it went merely into sleep mode
Opinions on this PSU? Might be able to grab one
The EAG PRO 750W WHITE is the 80 PLUS Gold Semi-Modular PSU and best 750w psu with 750W/120mm silent fan/Japanese Caps/7-Year Warranty - Antec
The EarthWattts Gold po sie features high performance with an 8o plus@ Gold rating, delivering up to 92% efficiency and reducing your electricity bil. Featuring hybrid modular cabling, a whisper-quiet 120mm fan controlled by Antec＇s renowned Thermal Manager, and CircuitShield" Industrial Grade...
Rated A on the LTT Tier (except if it's the Chinese model, which is a D Tier)
Ive got that psu in black in a 3800x build. The fan doesnt stop spinning but it is quiet just notbas quiet as a psu with fan stop. Works well, is semi modular, and the cables are all black, no mustard and ketchup, which is always good. AMA...
Fan noise doesn't bother me much really. I'm really interested in build quality and coil whine, how's your experience?
Just got home and was going to post this. I thought this was his PC I built for him LOL. Now its a gaming box for his laptop hahah!
Don't know if this is allowed, someone let me know if not, but I figured I'd drop a line here about my post in the B/S/T thread since it's some RAM and a couple of heatsinks which is of more interest here than in the general B/S/T thread generally.
www.resetera.com
Buy/Sell/Trade Thread | Read the New Rules in the OP | Scammers Suck
WTS random used PC Stuff, Paypal F&F, all prices include shipping: HyperX Kingston FURY 16GB Kit (2x8GB) 1866MHz DDR3 CL10 DIMM - Black (HX318C10FBK2/16) $30.00 Scythe Big Shuriken 2 Rev B Heatsink + Fan No original packaging. Complete Intel hardware included. I THINK complete AMD hardware is...
www.resetera.com
Folks keep saying SSDs are due for a price cash soon but I don't know if it's worthwhile waiting that out. Bleh.
Its build quality is nothing spectacular to be honest. Very basic but solid. The steel feels alittle thin nothing too bad though. Its very compact. You wont have any fitment issues. Im not sensitive to coil whine but with this i think you would hear the fan before you hear coil whine. The fan did get audible on a heavily ocd 4930k system but on a ryzen setup very quiet.
I think its a good unit for people not looking to do heavy overclocking/ryzen builds. Intel k series builds might want to look at something bigger in size with a bigger fan.
Thank you. I'm aiming at a fairly mid-range Ryzen build with the chance of a later upgrade, so I think it'll be good for me if I am able to grab one
My computer finally started dying (turns off while playing Fall Guys) so I'm forced to buy a replacement. What is the consensus on a MSI MPG X570 Gaming Plus? I've seen it as the cheapest of the X570s, and since I'm really on a budget but would like a bit of future proofing, would this be a good fit? I'm trying to find something good as below 200 as I can get.
Right, it's been a bit. I'm looking to upgrade my PC (graphics card, specifically) from an AMD RX 580. Twist: I'm trying to get ray tracing for less than the price of an entire console. Is this possible? If so, where should I start looking?
At the moment I'm rummaging through pcpartpicker.com and I'm not finding anything inexpensive enough. I figured with the everyone frothing at the mouth over the 3080 I'd be able to find cheap 2070/80s.
At the moment I'm rummaging through pcpartpicker.com and I'm not finding anything inexpensive enough. I figured with the everyone frothing at the mouth over the 3080 I'd be able to find cheap 2070/80s.
Right, it's been a bit. I'm looking to upgrade my PC (graphics card, specifically) from an AMD RX 580. Twist: I'm trying to get ray tracing for less than the price of an entire console. Is this possible? If so, where should I start looking?
At the moment I'm rummaging through pcpartpicker.com and I'm not finding anything inexpensive enough. I figured with the everyone frothing at the mouth over the 3080 I'd be able to find cheap 2070/80s.
A couple of weeks ago you might have been able to get a 2080 Ti for like $400-500 because people were panic selling. But 3080 stock has been incredibly scarce, so prices are going back up. People might be going for 2070/80 because they can't find a 3080 to purchase. You could check out EVGA's B Stock for a cheap 2070 if eBay searches give you nothing. The cheapest ray tracing card would probably be a RTX 2060; new ones are around $300-$330. But it's going to be suceeded by the 3060 (Ti?) rumored in November.
Looking to build a workstation for the end of the year for high intensity 3d animation (dense models, lots of simulation, cpu rendering) with a budget of 3k not including monitor. I've asked before, but I know new CPUs are on the way. What can anyone suggest?
So, finally looking to upgrade my Monitor for the first time since 2011.
This is what I currently use: https://www.lg.com/hk_en/monitor/lg-D2342P
I legitimately only bought it back then because I wanted a 3D monitor and never even used it for that lol it turned out fine though. Since it wasn't actually bad to me for a first time PC/just starting out with games on PC monitor. Could have probably ended up with an significantly worse one back then since I didn't know much.
Mainly what I'm looking for is 1440p / Gsync / and size wise 23' to 27' at most. If just over $500 is my budget/ceiling, what would everyone here recommend? At this point though I kind of expect anything recommended here to be an upgrade in every single way compared to this monitor haha. Also I'm currently on a 980ti but will be upgrading to a 3080 when stock is finally normal-ish or waves of restocking are often enough.
This is what I currently use: https://www.lg.com/hk_en/monitor/lg-D2342P
I legitimately only bought it back then because I wanted a 3D monitor and never even used it for that lol it turned out fine though. Since it wasn't actually bad to me for a first time PC/just starting out with games on PC monitor. Could have probably ended up with an significantly worse one back then since I didn't know much.
Mainly what I'm looking for is 1440p / Gsync / and size wise 23' to 27' at most. If just over $500 is my budget/ceiling, what would everyone here recommend? At this point though I kind of expect anything recommended here to be an upgrade in every single way compared to this monitor haha. Also I'm currently on a 980ti but will be upgrading to a 3080 when stock is finally normal-ish or waves of restocking are often enough.
LTT did a video on this about a year ago:
LG just made the Best Monitor of 2019 – 27GL850 Review
Sign up for Private Internet Access VPN at https://lmg.gg/pialinus2 Manage your data with EaseUS with a 30-day risk-free guarantee at https://lmg.gg/easeus L...www.youtube.com
Here's the model mentioned in the video but it's OOS:
Here is the 2020 refresh of that same monitor with a different stand and minus the USB hub. It's $50 cheaper and I own it so let me know if you have any specific questions about it. I mostly just played BL3 and Gears 5 on it since I bought it a few months ago.
So, this monitor is quite the beast - thank you for the recommendation. Any tips on settings? I found these on the net:
Game Mode Profile:
Gamer 1
Game Adjust:
Adaptive-Sync : On
Black Stabilizer : 40 (reduced from default of 50 as it helped make blacks more black instead of grey)
Response Time : Fast
Picture Adjust:
Brightness : 30-40 (reduced from default of 100)
Contrast : 70 (default)
Sharpness : 50 (default)
Gamma : Mode 2 (default)
Color Temp : Custom (default)
R/G/B : 54/48/50 (these made the picture feel a little warmer than the default of 50/50/50 but I still tinker with them every now and again and these are more your personal taste on how warm/cold you like your whites and colours)
DFC : Off (default)
General:
Smart Energy Saving : Off (change from On)
Power LED : On (this lights up the joystick under the front bezel)
Automatic Standby : 8h
Displayport 1.4 : Enable
Check this out - I just installed it and love it. Coming from a 4 year old BenQ 144mhz and 1440p is a big upgrade.
Two day delivery - but got it in one day.
Does Gsync compatible mean it comes built in or just that it supports the ability to add it? Otherwise this really does look suuuuuper tempting.
I think this is the freesync version that is gsync compatible. Meaning it works, but I don't know much more then that.
I have the Lenovo Legion Y27q-20. It's a Freesync/GSync compatible monitor that works with my 2070 Super. You just enable GSync in NVIDIA Control panel and you're good to go*
*Turn it on for Full Screen, turn on Vsync in NVIDIA Control Panel and off in your games, use Rivatuner or whatever to set refresh rate to 2-3 Hz less than your monitor's max refresh rate (142 for a 144Hz monitor)
The drives shipped out early. I have one on the way as well.
Power supply question:
I've got an i5 4670k, overclocked to 4.2ghz, 16gb of DDR3, with Windows 10 running on an SSD, and I just got my hands on a used GTX 980 Ti, to replace my GTX 1050 (not even a 1050 Ti). Don't mock me, this shit is amazing by my standards and I love it (even the 1050).
But to move from the 1050 to the 980 Ti, I have to upgrade from my reliable old 400 watt Corsair power supply to a minimum of 600 watts (I hit some power supply calculators, and 400 watt was the minimum for what I had, and 600 watt is the minimum for what I'm moving into). I looked at some cheap power supplies, but I decided to skip "cheap" and go for "midrange", and settled on a Cooler Master MasterWatt 750.
The Cooler Master worked great for exactly one week, and then it picked up a weird problem where it's cooling fan would shudder and shake my entire PC every time the fan spun up from zero RPM (which the fan did every 10 minutes or so), along with making an obnoxious sound you could hear from clear across the room. I immediately returned the power supply and got a full refund, so now I'm back to running on my Corsair 400 watt and my (non-Ti) GTX 1050 while I shop around for another new power supply.
From what I was able to figure out, the failed Cooler Master used fluid dynamic bearings, which use pressurized fluid instead of bearings, which is theoretically superior, unless it fails, which mine did in a week. Also, I saw someone suggesting that fluid dynamic bearings aren't ideal for low speeds, which makes them a poor choice for a fan that turns off at low power and only drifts a little air through every ten minutes. Also, I saw someone suggesting that it's better to get older tech (sleeve bearings) made well than newer tech (fluid bearings) made badly.
To that end, I'm looking at a Corsair RM650x. I've been happy with Corsair, and I saw someone suggesting Corsair and EVGA for quality. It costs more than the Cooler Master did, but I'd really like for it to not fail, and the RM650x uses sleeve bearings, which leans towards the suggestion of "older tech made well".
I guess my non-specific question is... does this plan make sense?
Bonus question: The Corsair RM750x costs $20 more (Canadian dollars) than the RM650x. Is there any sense in moving up to 750 watt? The Cooler Master's efficiency was rated 80+ Bronze and the Corsair is 80+ Gold, so I think the Corsair doesn't need as much extra headroom as the Cooler Master did (if it even needed that at all). I can't picture anything I could do to this computer to make it need more power than what it already needs, but maybe I'm missing something.
Edit: Looking at the Corsair TX650M, it looks almost as good as the RM650x, but is a bit cheaper.
Edit2: The TXM is semi-modular, while the RMX is full-modular. Why would I ever not want that fat cable to the mobo to be connected to the power supply? That's the one cable everyone always needs. I think I don't understand full-modular.
I've got an i5 4670k, overclocked to 4.2ghz, 16gb of DDR3, with Windows 10 running on an SSD, and I just got my hands on a used GTX 980 Ti, to replace my GTX 1050 (not even a 1050 Ti). Don't mock me, this shit is amazing by my standards and I love it (even the 1050).
But to move from the 1050 to the 980 Ti, I have to upgrade from my reliable old 400 watt Corsair power supply to a minimum of 600 watts (I hit some power supply calculators, and 400 watt was the minimum for what I had, and 600 watt is the minimum for what I'm moving into). I looked at some cheap power supplies, but I decided to skip "cheap" and go for "midrange", and settled on a Cooler Master MasterWatt 750.
The Cooler Master worked great for exactly one week, and then it picked up a weird problem where it's cooling fan would shudder and shake my entire PC every time the fan spun up from zero RPM (which the fan did every 10 minutes or so), along with making an obnoxious sound you could hear from clear across the room. I immediately returned the power supply and got a full refund, so now I'm back to running on my Corsair 400 watt and my (non-Ti) GTX 1050 while I shop around for another new power supply.
From what I was able to figure out, the failed Cooler Master used fluid dynamic bearings, which use pressurized fluid instead of bearings, which is theoretically superior, unless it fails, which mine did in a week. Also, I saw someone suggesting that fluid dynamic bearings aren't ideal for low speeds, which makes them a poor choice for a fan that turns off at low power and only drifts a little air through every ten minutes. Also, I saw someone suggesting that it's better to get older tech (sleeve bearings) made well than newer tech (fluid bearings) made badly.
To that end, I'm looking at a Corsair RM650x. I've been happy with Corsair, and I saw someone suggesting Corsair and EVGA for quality. It costs more than the Cooler Master did, but I'd really like for it to not fail, and the RM650x uses sleeve bearings, which leans towards the suggestion of "older tech made well".
I guess my non-specific question is... does this plan make sense?
Bonus question: The Corsair RM750x costs $20 more (Canadian dollars) than the RM650x. Is there any sense in moving up to 750 watt? The Cooler Master's efficiency was rated 80+ Bronze and the Corsair is 80+ Gold, so I think the Corsair doesn't need as much extra headroom as the Cooler Master did (if it even needed that at all). I can't picture anything I could do to this computer to make it need more power than what it already needs, but maybe I'm missing something.
Edit: Looking at the Corsair TX650M, it looks almost as good as the RM650x, but is a bit cheaper.
Edit2: The TXM is semi-modular, while the RMX is full-modular. Why would I ever not want that fat cable to the mobo to be connected to the power supply? That's the one cable everyone always needs. I think I don't understand full-modular.
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Your CPU isn't going to last you 5 more years. Maybe 2 years as more games start to utilize more threads. Plus the single core performance of the Haswell is not spectacular by any means now. It's not a very big bottleneck for the 3080 but it's still a very sizeable deficit compared to what you can get with a Ryzen 5 3600 even.Hey peeps, looking for some help/advice.
I built this PC back in 2014 and currently using a VG248QE monitor at 1080p.
I have made some improvements over the years, like adding 16GB more data (which I could swear was clocked at 2400Mhz) 5 years ago, changing the GPU to this one 4 years ago, and adding the second SSD 3 years ago. I have not made any change since.
I am considering getting a 3080 once stock improves, and also upgrading to an LG 27GL850-B Quad HD 27'' monitor, to game at 1440p.
But I am also wondering if a GPU is enough to keep my system for another 5 years and last me for the new console generation. I'd prefer not to go and do a complete system rebuild.
Any ideas?
PS: System is not allowing me to add a picture on the board, so here's the imgur link:
The 4770K (and that is overclocked) is on average ~50% slower than the current CPUs at 1080p and still ~20% slower at 1440p.
Plus with the 4770K you won't have access to fast NVME drives, as the Z97 chipset doesn't even support PCI-E 3.0 x4 NVME.
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1) The fan of the TX will never stop spinning. I also would think the internal components are of lower quality, but that might a) be fairly inconsequential and b) not even the case.
2) RM650 vs RM750: the 750 would allow for prolonged fanless operation. Maybe even under load.
3) On modularity: I assume the following: Fully modular allows easy swapping of the cables, should you desire differently coloured ones, or even if they break. Also there are edge cases you might want to use a second PSU for e.g. multiple GPUs or other applications that don't require the traditional mainboard connector.
Your CPU isn't going to last you 5 more years. Maybe 2 years as more games start to utilize more threads. Plus the single core performance of the Haswell is not spectacular by any means now. It's not a very big bottleneck for the 3080 but it's still a very sizeable deficit compared to what you can get with a Ryzen 5 3600 even.
The 4770K (and that is overclocked) is on average ~50% slower than the current CPUs at 1080p and still ~20% slower at 1440p.
Plus with the 4770K you won't have access to fast NVME drives, as the Z97 chipset doesn't even support PCI-E 3.0 x4 NVME.
Thank you very much for your answer. You're effectively suggesting a new CPU and mobo as well. Plus new RAM? Unless new CPUs are compatible with my mobo and RAM?
And I may also then consider getting a new cooler and a new power supply as everything is already 6 years old.