The PC Builders Thread ("I Need a New PC") v3

Vex · May 31, 2020

Stacey said:
Why is PBO on by default, instantly voiding my warranty?

You made me look into this and what I found... Let's just say I'm turning this shit off on my 3700x

Charts at the link.

Conclusion: There is no reason to use Precision Boost Overdrive and AutoOC
Our conclusion is that neither "Precision Boost Overdrive" nor PBO + AutoOC are worth enabling if you are using an AMD Ryzen 7 3700X:

The performance gains in benchmarks are mixed. Although you can get a one percent speed boost, more often than not, you're getting less performance

In some games you get a few more frames per second, but in others you get fewer frames per second

Both the processor's temperature and its power consumption increase, because of the higher voltages used

It's crazy how in some cases, NO PBO is actually better (particularly in gaming environments). Fuck that. Ain't worth it. pbo actually performed worse in 7zip decompression. It only had a = or greater than ~1% performance increase with benchmarks like jetstream tho.

Power draw was significantly higher and thus temperatures were also higher:

To get an idea of how much the temperature of the processor is affected by enabling "Precision Boost Overdrive," we did some logging using HWiNFO while running Prime95. While running at factory settings, the processor did not get hotter than 89 degrees Celsius. However, with PBO and PBO + AutoOC enabled, the processor reached 95 degrees Celsius, which is its maximum official temperature.

Yea fuck that.

SpyGuy · May 31, 2020

Guys what's going on with the PC components situation?
I finally got settled on what I needed to get for my new AMD build and everything is sold out. All the stuff I found for one day that was still in stock all gone. Recurring theme at Amazon, best buy, Microcenter, BH Photo, Newegg
Is this all the result of COVID-19 etc.?
Anyone has any idea when stocks will become easier to find again?

Vulcano's Assistant · May 31, 2020

Isaac Tea said:
Guys what's going on with the PC components situation?
I finally got settled on what I needed to get for my new AMD build and everything is sold out. All the stuff I found for one day that was still in stock all gone. Recurring theme at Amazon, best buy, Microcenter, BH Photo, Newegg
Is this all the result of COVID-19 etc.?
Anyone has any idea when stocks will become easier to find again?

Yep it's because of covid-19. From what I understand transportation and shipping is especially affected even if factories overseas are going back to normal, so it is not easy to tell when retailers will have regular stock, although they are getting components regularly it seems all very slow compared to the rate at which they are being bought.

Vex · May 31, 2020

Isaac Tea said:
Guys what's going on with the PC components situation?
I finally got settled on what I needed to get for my new AMD build and everything is sold out. All the stuff I found for one day that was still in stock all gone. Recurring theme at Amazon, best buy, Microcenter, BH Photo, Newegg
Is this all the result of COVID-19 etc.?
Anyone has any idea when stocks will become easier to find again?

Yea, just last month when I was building my new rig things were selling out. Especially all the good stuff like mobos, case fans (corsairs especially), monitors, and gpus. Shit was crazy but I got lucky and bought my gpu from a very unlikely source:

Walmart.com

Lmao. Try there. They may have some stuff still in stock. Just make sure the actual seller is "WALMART" and not a 3rd party seller.

HarryDemeanor · May 31, 2020

Funnily enough, GamersNexus just put out a video about an hour ago tackling the shortage.

Looks like the word they're getting is June for some stock to roll back in but don't expect it to last very long.

liljoka · May 31, 2020

stoke1863 said:
I think you'd be wasting your money in all honesty, isn't worth the outlay as what you have is already solid I'd just save your cash

SmartWaffles said:
Both are waste of money at the moment. It's not like either provides a monumental upgrade against a still relatively competitive CPU. And the Intel pairing is even a completely dead platform. Wait till Zen 3.

Excellent. I am truly out the game it seems like then lol.

Terbinator · May 31, 2020

liljoka said:
I'm back and totally out the game.

Got back into The Witcher 3, at 1800p and some mods.

Surprisingly seeing my CPU spike to 80% at times. Also Assetto Corsa Competizione hitting very high CPU usage.

i7 7700K 4.8Ghz
2x8GB DDR4 3200Mhz
RTX 2070 Super 1980Mhz
Corsair RMx 650W
Asus Z170I pro gaming

Thoughts?

I know this has already been answered, but thought I'd chime in anyway as I'm using the same board and a 6700K.

Wait until the next round of Intel chips and Zen 3. Ryzen 3 series are very close to Skylake in terms of performance so not worth moving (especially if you're @ 4.8GHz, they're probably worse for not multi-threaded tasks) unless you need more cores for non-gaming stuff.

The Ryzen ITX boards are really expensive, but not sure if that's due to general component shortage. I think I got my Z170I Pro for about £120 in 2015, equivalent boards are closer to £200+ here on AM4.

Zen 3 and new Intel stuff should be here later this year.

brain_stew · May 31, 2020

Vex said:
You made me look into this and what I found... Let's just say I'm turning this shit off on my 3700x

Charts at the link.

It's crazy how in some cases, NO PBO is actually better (particularly in gaming environments). Fuck that. Ain't worth it considering in the cases where pbo actually performed better (7zip decompression) it only had a = or less than ~1% performance increase but the power draw was significantly higher, and thus temperatures, were also higher:

Yea fuck that.

PBO shouldn't be enabled by default. "Auto" means disabled (at least it did on my MSI motherboard).

I saw around a 200mhz sustained higher all core boost when I enabled it, and my Cinebench scores scaled with that. Still not sure what setting i'm going to settle on, currently playing around with the combination of PBO + a negative voltage offset.

Vex · May 31, 2020

brain_stew said:
PBO shouldn't be enabled by default. "Auto" means disabled (at least it did on my MSI motherboard).

I saw around a 200mhz sustained higher all core boost when I enabled it, and my Cinebench scores scaled with that. Still not sure what setting i'm going to settle on, currently playing around with the combination of PBO + a negative voltage offset.

What cpu do you have??? You have a 3700x too?

OtisSpunkmeijer · May 31, 2020

Cookie said:
Hey guys, I built my PC last summer but I've been having this constant issue with it and I've never been able to fix it.

When playing games at some point the screen will go black, the fans in the computer speed up to 100% and I have to press the power button to turn it off and restart it. It only happens when playing games but that's the only intensive thing I use it for, I don't use it for much else.

I've been desperately trying to fix the issue, it happens all the time, sometimes after 20 minutes and sometimes after 2 hours but it is guaranteed to happen. It happens in every game I can remember playing from Sims 4 and Civ VI to GTA V, Battlefield 1 and Hitman 2.

The specs of my computer are:
Ryzen 5 2600
MSI Air Boost Vega 56
16GB RAM
Samsung 970 NVME start up and occasional game SSD
3TB HDD for most games
Corsair TX650M

I have tried:
Buying a new power supply, I originally had a 500W Be Quiet PSU.
Installing more fans, I have two front intakes and one rear exhaust now
Replacing the thermal paste on the GPU
Lowering the power consumption of the GPU
Increasing the fan speeds in Radeon settings
Increasing the fan speeds from the motherboard settings
Completely deleting and reinstalling the drivers for the Vega 56

I'm sure there's other things I have tried too that I can't remember but that's all I can think of from recently.

Does anyone have any ideas? I'm at the point where I just give up on PC gaming all together if I can't fix this.

Hey, sorry to hear about your issues. I had very similar issues after a new build last year - not just the black screen and fan going in to overdrive but also eventually BSOD.

This might sound weird, but after trying everything I could think of, including switching out my GPU, RAM etc. and running memtest and other bits of software I disconnected my brand new Samsung SSD and plugged in my old Crucial SSD and all the problems stopped. I've been gaming on my old SSD ever since.

I recently went back and put in the Samsung SSD and it immediately crashed on me.

I don't know if that is the issue, but I noticed that like me you seem to have tried everything but the SSD. If you have an old one lying around see if swapping out the Samsung one helps.

Whatever it is, good luck as this can be so frustrating.

brain_stew · May 31, 2020

Vex said:
What cpu do you have??? You have a 3700x too?

Yeah, just got it a few days ago. Happy with my memory/fclk settings but just trying to dial in what to do on the CPU side.

The reviews of PBO around launch aren't all that helpful as the boosting behaviour of the motherboards have changed with AGESA updates, I'm finding it really difficult to find a set and forget setting as the information is really conflicting.

Isee · May 31, 2020

brain_stew said:
Any recommendations or good links to get an idea on what sort of voltage offset to aim for? I wasn't planning to do any overclocking as I'm on stock cooling and the reviews from around launch seemed to show no benefit with PBO and that manual overclocking could often lead to lower performance and required extreme cooling.

I gave PBO a go with auto voltage last night and low and behold it made a measurable difference, I was maintaining closer to a 4.1ghz all core boost in a Cinebench vs. more like 3.9ghz previously. Scores saw an increase as well whereas I was getting slightly lower scores than reported in reviews previously but I'm comfortablly above them now. The fan speed speed was noticeably higher (and louder) during the Cinebench run which puts me off leaving it enabled but then I wouldn't be all CPU threads at 100% in a normal workload anyway so it's perhaps not an issue.

Sorry no. This is even more sensible and silicon subjective than overclocking on intel chips.
Personally I settled for a -0.05V offset. Higher offsets are stable, but clock speeds start to go down a bit (especially in p95).
As with overclocks you'll find people telling about -0.1V offsets (or even higher) on the internet. But it is always hard to tell how intensive the testing was done by the people posting their results. Is it stable, but performance is lower? Is it stable in the first place, or just CB20 stable? Is the performance the same, but temperatures lower? Does the CB20 score improve, but p95 starts crashing?

This needs a lot of manual work and testing on your side. There is no go to setting here. I'd recommend establishing an average CB20 score, temps and clockspeeds (multiple runs, CB20 scores vary a lot from run to run) + p95 average temps and clockspeeds (small or smallest FFts, whatever you feel comfortable running and your cooling is able to handle!).
Than set a -0.01V offset, repeat and note the results. Repeat until you've found something working for you and your silicon.

DodgeAnon · May 31, 2020

Asked this a few pages back, but what's the best 27" 1440p 144hz freesync monitor to get around the £400-£450 mark?

Cookie · May 31, 2020

OtisSpunkmeijer said:
Hey, sorry to hear about your issues. I had very similar issues after a new build last year - not just the black screen and fan going in to overdrive but also eventually BSOD.

This might sound weird, but after trying everything I could think of, including switching out my GPU, RAM etc. and running memtest and other bits of software I disconnected my brand new Samsung SSD and plugged in my old Crucial SSD and all the problems stopped. I've been gaming on my old SSD ever since.

I recently went back and put in the Samsung SSD and it immediately crashed on me.

I don't know if that is the issue, but I noticed that like me you seem to have tried everything but the SSD. If you have an old one lying around see if swapping out the Samsung one helps.

Whatever it is, good luck as this can be so frustrating.

Thank you, I wouldn't have thought about trying that. If it is the SSD I would be gutted.

I have been messing around with undervolting etc. Although it wasn't successful at first I didn't get a crash the last time I played, it's difficult to say whether it is fixed but I want to keep trying the settings I have. If that doesn't work I'll try a new SSD, one is arriving for my wife's computer next week.

brain_stew · May 31, 2020

Isee said:
Sorry no. This is even more sensible and silicon subjective than overclocking on intel chips.
Personally I settled for a -0.05V offset. Higher offsets are stable, but clock speeds start to go down a bit (especially in p95).
As with overclocks you'll find people telling about -0.1V offsets (or even higher) on the internet. But it is always hard to tell how intensive the testing was done by the people posting their results. Is it stable, but performance is lower? Is it stable in the first place, or just CB20 stable? Is the performance the same, but temperatures lower? Does the CB20 score improve, but p95 starts crashing?

This needs a lot of manual work and testing on your side. There is no go to setting here. I'd recommend establishing an average CB20 score, temps and clockspeeds (multiple runs, CB20 scores vary a lot from run to run) + p95 average temps and clockspeeds (small or smallest FFts, whatever you feel comfortable running and your cooling is able to handle!).
Than set a -0.01V offset, repeat and note the results. Repeat until you've found something working for you and your silicon.

Thanks for the advice, it seems to be incredibly sensitive to the slightest fluctuations in anything and what's more difficult is the response seems to differ depending on how many cores you're loading. I can quite easily see an extra 200mhz in Cinebench with PBO enabled and can maintain that with a -.05v offset but I'm not sure whether it's costing me performance in more lightly threaded workloads.

It's incredibly difficult to dial this in.

Isee · May 31, 2020

brain_stew said:
I can quite easily see an extra 200mhz in Cinebench with PBO enabled and can maintain that with a -.05v offset but I'm not sure whether it's costing me performance in more lightly threaded workloads.

Question is what your goal is, because even if it does bring down your single core clock speed, during very light workloads by 25-50MHz. A +200MHz all core clock boost increase could be a worthwhile trade off, even for gaming. It took me weeks to test and finally settle on something that I'm confident enough about. It's a tedious process, but one that I enjoy for strange reasons.If you don't than just let it go. We are talking about 3%-5% of extra performance here, after all. And probably not even that.

Siresly · May 31, 2020

After tumbling through various internet holes to eventually come upon this, and seeing the grill+filter results, I swapped out the Noctua A14s in the front for Arctic P140s. They're about 30% cheaper and will probably be both more efficient and more quiet in the Define 7, which has a restrictive front dust filter and door.
Compared to the stock GP-14 fans of 0.71mmH20, the A14 is 2.08 and the P140 2.85. So that should help pull more air in.

So with that I've ordered two P140s and reckon this will be the final configuration.

Now I'll just have to wait for AMD and Nvidia to get other stuff to put in there.

brain_stew · May 31, 2020

Isee said:
Question is what your goal is, because even if it does bring down your single core clock speed, during very light workloads by 25-50MHz. A +200MHz all core clock boost increase could be a worthwhile trade off, even for gaming. It took me weeks to test and finally settle on something that I'm confident enough about. It's a tedious process, but one that I enjoy for strange reasons.If you don't than just let it go. We are talking about 3%-5% of extra performance here, after all. And probably not even that.

No, as long as I have the time to set aside for it then it's something I find enjoyable. It's like tuning a car but with numbers instead of grease and oil which is far more up my street. :-)

I'm finding being able to manually set a thread count in Cinebench and watching the thermal package power is really useful. I can clearly see it hit up against the default PPT limit of ~88w with PBO disabled once I load 8 threads or more and this is where I'm getting faster boost speeds with PBO enabled which makes sense.

Below the default limit PBO isn't really doing anything and that makes sense I guess, as I'm raising a limit that I'm already within so the boost behaviour is the same.

1T was the only place I was seeing any lower clocks and that's not a realistic workload as even 12+ year old games were designed around at least 2 threads. I've now seen it hit 4400 at 1T now anyway so relatively confident that 0.05v is going to be fine without any performance degradation.

Croyles · May 31, 2020

After some initial problems with having one of my monitors not get a signal from my GPU, I ended up just plugging in another monitor in order to post to BIOS for the first time which instantly worked for whatever reason. Then I had some windows installation error loops which I fixed by going into the registry. All seems to be running well now. Temps are good and RAM is running at 3200mhz with DOCP enabled without any issues. Had to change fan speeds in the BIOS, including manually making a curve of the one plugged into the AIO Pump header because that runs at max speed at all times otherwise.
System is a tad louder than my old one, maybe I can tweak it a bit further.

imgur.com

Imgur: The magic of the Internet

imgur.com

Ryzen 9 3900x
Noctua NH-D15S
ASUS TUF Gaming x570-Plus
GTX 1660 Ti (Got this one cheap through work last year when my old 970 died, but will upgrade in the future, the 3900x is good for editing which I need)
Phanteks Eclipse P400A Digital
2x16 GB Corsair Vengeance 3200
Samsung 970 EVO 1tb NVMe m.2
Samsung 860 QVO 1tb 2.5 SSD

OtisSpunkmeijer · May 31, 2020

Cookie said:
Thank you, I wouldn't have thought about trying that. If it is the SSD I would be gutted.

I have been messing around with undervolting etc. Although it wasn't successful at first I didn't get a crash the last time I played, it's difficult to say whether it is fixed but I want to keep trying the settings I have. If that doesn't work I'll try a new SSD, one is arriving for my wife's computer next week.

I hope the undervolting has fixed it, it seems like a good sign so far if it hasn't crashed yet! Best of luck!

Heazy · May 31, 2020

I'm wondering if anyone can provide any advice. I've just moved my setup from one case to another. Previously, all was working just fine and dandy.

However the new case, won't output to my monitors from my GPU (can't test integrated because of the mobo/CPU).

The machine boots and remains on, the fans are all spinning, including those on the GPU. I'm wondering if it bit the bullet during the transfer?

The previous case has only 1 rear and 1 front fan, so I bought this case for more fans and better airflow.

Build below

Saved Part Lists

pcpartpicker.com

If anyone has any ideas that'd be really helpful.

PhantomFFR · May 31, 2020

BrettHeazy said:
I'm wondering if anyone can provide any advice. I've just moved my setup from one case to another. Previously, all was working just fine and dandy.

However the new case, won't output to my monitors from my GPU (can't test integrated because of the mobo/CPU).

If anyone has any ideas that'd be really helpful.

Obviously the first questions are: Despite the fans spinning, you did connect both power connections to the GPU? You are connected to the right video out? If you have a wired keyboard with caps lock LED, what happens to the LED if you press caps lock? does it change?

You could try taking everything out and see if it runs on a non electrically conductive surface outside the case (like the mainboard packaging or presumably some other cardboard-box).

Heazy · May 31, 2020

Caps lock isn't lighting up.

So I thought it was getting to the log in screen (but no visual), but I'm guessing not.

Can't believe this - reseated the RAM and it's fine hahaha

6 hours later...

tomofthepops · May 31, 2020

I just asked this in the other of thread but was directed here. Looking to build my first proper gaming pc, looking for what the minimum is to run modern titles at 1080p 60fps very high/ultra settings. I'm in the UK and don't mind going used if there's better options. Any help is appreciated :)

Grimm Fandango · May 31, 2020

tomofthepops said:
I just asked this in the other of thread but was directed here. Looking to build my first proper gaming pc, looking for what the minimum is to run modern titles at 1080p 60fps very high/ultra settings. I'm in the UK and don't mind going used if there's better options. Any help is appreciated :)

Answer the six questions in the OP and that helps us pinpoint what exactly you need!

tomofthepops · May 31, 2020

Grimm Fandango said:
Answer the six questions in the OP and that helps us pinpoint what exactly you need!

Oops sorry :)

£600 ish
Playing games at 1080p 60fps (highest settings that I can)
Asap
Not reusing any parts
Just computer its self.
Not sure.

fracas · May 31, 2020

Anyone know how to make a bootable windows drive on a Macbook?

My new PC is ready to go, I just can't install Windows on it. All I have is an SD card and my work Macbook. I've tried using Bootcamp Assistant and my new PC doesn't recognize it as a bootable drive.

opticalmace · May 31, 2020

fracas said:
Anyone know how to make a bootable windows drive on a Macbook?

My new PC is ready to go, I just can't install Windows on it. All I have is an SD card and my work Macbook. I've tried using Bootcamp Assistant and my new PC doesn't recognize it as a bootable drive.

no USB stick ?

fracas · May 31, 2020

opticalmace said:
no USB stick ?

I really don't want to buy one just for this if I can avoid it. From what I can tell, it should be doable. I'm trying again with the card formatted differently (MS-DOS I think). If that doesn't work I'll prob just get a stick.

Doc Holliday · May 31, 2020

Vex said:
You made me look into this and what I found... Let's just say I'm turning this shit off on my 3700x

Charts at the link.

It's crazy how in some cases, NO PBO is actually better (particularly in gaming environments). Fuck that. Ain't worth it. pbo actually performed worse in 7zip decompression. It only had a = or greater than ~1% performance increase with benchmarks like jetstream tho.

Power draw was significantly higher and thus temperatures were also higher:

Yea fuck that.

I was getting 10c-12 higher temps with it on on my ryzen 3700x. I haven't noticed any performance differences with it off.

Serpens007 · May 31, 2020

I'm posting this here too too check if someone knows what could I do (or where I could find better answers

I've been using a Dualshock 4 while playing on PC for a while now. It worked both wired and via bluetooth with no issues using DS4Windows, right up until a couple of days ago. For some reason, it stopped being detected by the bluetooth USB dongle. When wired, it is recognized by the PC, and works natively and via DS4Windows, no issues. But when trying to pair it via bluetooth, it just doesn't show up. No single bluetooth device is detected,

At first, when the problem started and when wired, the DS4 was detected as an "audio device". Resetting the controller and reinstalling it solved it, but still no bluetooth. Took the DS4 to the PS4, and it works wirelessly there. Pair it with the phone, it works. Took the bluetooth dongle to another PC, and it works well detecting devices.

So far, I've tried:

- Uninstalling the devices, reinstalling them
- Troubleshooting, it solved a "radius problem", but it didn't change anything
- Updating drivers both manually and automatically to the latest drivers.
- Updating windows
- Running services.msc, locating bluetooth support service and restarting it, leaving it in automatic

Googling the problem, these are the solutions that pop out. Others aren't really like my problem, but they also didn't work. As I said, both devices worked fine before, and works in other PC/PS4, so I really don't know what happened.

HALP, Era, HALP

TylerPickstock · May 31, 2020

StaffyManasse said:
Took a pic of the insides now I had the time.

that's a nice build mate. nice and simple!

eddy · May 31, 2020

See, you DO need PCIe 4.0 in your next build.

Stacey · May 31, 2020

What's the most hassle free way of cleaning my GPU fans without removing it from the case?

Sabin · May 31, 2020

Stacey said:
What's the most hassle free way of cleaning my GPU fans without removing it from the case?

Compressed Air Dust Blower are the way to go.

StaffyManasse · Jun 1, 2020

TylerPickstock said:
that's a nice build mate. nice and simple!

Thanks, I'm happy! The first boot and seeing the lights turn on and then getting to bios was a great experience. I did it! Heck, I think I needed that.

I am a little bothered by the white CPU cooler cables, but it's a closed side panel case that sits on the floor so I can live with it. For now, lol.

The back case fan cable is a bit of a mess and there is a reason for that: I switched the motherboard in the last minute when ordering my parts and it came with one less case fan header, so I need to get a splitter cable. As for now, the top back fan is not hooked anywhere.

Crazymoogle · Jun 1, 2020

HarryDemeanor said:
Funnily enough, GamersNexus just put out a video about an hour ago tackling the shortage.

A very informative video from GN as usual. Although the other (slightly depressing) point he makes towards the end is that RTX30 cards are not being manufacturered yet...

DodgeAnon said:
Asked this a few pages back, but what's the best 27" 1440p 144hz freesync monitor to get around the £400-£450 mark?

Impossible to say with prices all over the place right now...its best to read RTINGS and whatever site you prefer for some ideas, but ultimately just gather the ones you're interested in and post them here if you need some help to choose.

Siresly said:
So with that I've ordered two P140s and reckon this will be the final configuration.
Now I'll just have to wait for AMD and Nvidia to get other stuff to put in there.

Are you planning on having the PSU face up or down? Just wondering.

Menx64 · Jun 1, 2020

DodgeAnon said:
Asked this a few pages back, but what's the best 27" 1440p 144hz freesync monitor to get around the £400-£450 mark?

Awesome recomendations, however availability may be an issue worldwide now.

Siresly · Jun 1, 2020

Having watched some PC building videos, I discovered I've been running my 3000MHz memory at 2133MHz for the past four years.
Always figured BIOS settings was for nerds, that the motherboard would auto detect what the components are and the appropriate default settings for them.
But no you need to change that one memory profile setting. Good to know.

Crazymoogle said:
Are you planning on having the PSU face up or down? Just wondering.

Fan down.

But I hadn't actually considered what impact placing it up might have in my case, as most everyone recommends placing it fan down so it kind of creates its own self-contained ecosystem that doesn't particularly care about or affect what else is going on in the case.

I'd guess fan up the PSU would lower the positive pressure to some extent and take some air that would otherwise go to the GPU, probably by feeding directly from the bottom intake.

TylerPickstock · Jun 1, 2020

Serpens007 said:
I'm posting this here too too check if someone knows what could I do (or where I could find better answers

I've been using a Dualshock 4 while playing on PC for a while now. It worked both wired and via bluetooth with no issues using DS4Windows, right up until a couple of days ago. For some reason, it stopped being detected by the bluetooth USB dongle. When wired, it is recognized by the PC, and works natively and via DS4Windows, no issues. But when trying to pair it via bluetooth, it just doesn't show up. No single bluetooth device is detected,

At first, when the problem started and when wired, the DS4 was detected as an "audio device". Resetting the controller and reinstalling it solved it, but still no bluetooth. Took the DS4 to the PS4, and it works wirelessly there. Pair it with the phone, it works. Took the bluetooth dongle to another PC, and it works well detecting devices.

So far, I've tried:

- Uninstalling the devices, reinstalling them
- Troubleshooting, it solved a "radius problem", but it didn't change anything
- Updating drivers both manually and automatically to the latest drivers.
- Updating windows
- Running services.msc, locating bluetooth support service and restarting it, leaving it in automatic

Googling the problem, these are the solutions that pop out. Others aren't really like my problem, but they also didn't work. As I said, both devices worked fine before, and works in other PC/PS4, so I really don't know what happened.

HALP, Era, HALP

DS4 Windows is a pain mate. I bought a Xbox One Controller to solve all the issues, lol.

TylerPickstock · Jun 1, 2020

fracas said:
I really don't want to buy one just for this if I can avoid it. From what I can tell, it should be doable. I'm trying again with the card formatted differently (MS-DOS I think). If that doesn't work I'll prob just get a stick.

u can get a usb stick for £4 of amazon - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Toshiba-Tr...ld=1&keywords=usb+stick&qid=1591006436&sr=8-5

thats how i got it installed on a mac just download the iso then extract it and then copy the files straight to the usb stick and plug it into the pc and ur good to go.

Stacey · Jun 1, 2020

Sabin said:
Compressed Air Dust Blower are the way to go.

Good shout. Thank you.

fracas · Jun 1, 2020

TylerPickstock said:
u can get a usb stick for £4 of amazon - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Toshiba-Tr...ld=1&keywords=usb+stick&qid=1591006436&sr=8-5

thats how i got it installed on a mac just download the iso then extract it and then copy the files straight to the usb stick and plug it into the pc and ur good to go.

I finally got it working late last night. Not sure what the culprit was, but I ended up borrowing a friend's Windows laptop to make the bootable drive. Not sure what I did wrong trying it with my Mac, but I'm glad that hassle's over.

SmartWaffles · Jun 1, 2020

fracas said:
I finally got it working late last night. Not sure what the culprit was, but I ended up borrowing a friend's Windows laptop to make the bootable drive. Not sure what I did wrong trying it with my Mac, but I'm glad that hassle's over.

Mac is exactly the problem. You'll need to format the drive into NTFS which MacOS can't do, at least not out of the box.

Serpens007 · Jun 1, 2020

TylerPickstock said:
DS4 Windows is a pain mate. I bought a Xbox One Controller to solve all the issues, lol.

The problem is that it seeems to be a Bluetooth software problem. DS4 with Windows worked fine before, and both devices work on any other PC so really, I don't know what's going on

Tawpgun · Jun 1, 2020

Whats up experts.

I'm back with questions with the Costco computers. I mostly understand the limitations of buying prebuilts like this but. I was going to get this one one.

https://www.costco.com/ibuypower-tra1348gv2-gaming-desktop---9th-gen-intel-core-i7-9700k---geforce-rtx-2080-super.product.100507739.html

Processor & Memory:

9th Gen Intel® Core™ i7-9700K 8-Core Processor 3.6GHz
16GB DDR4 2666MHz RAM

Drives:

3TB 7200RPM SATA Hard Drive + 480GB SATA III Solid State Drive
No Optical Drive

Operating System:

Microsoft® Windows 10 Home (64-bit)

Graphics & Video:

8GB NVIDIA® GeForce® RTX 2080 SUPER™ Graphics
Monitor not included

Communications:

Wireless-AC WLAN
10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet LAN

Audio:

Integrated High Definition Channel Audio Processing

Keyboard & Mouse:

Gaming USB Keyboard + Gaming USB Mouse

Expandability (Total Slots):

1x PCIe 3.0 x16
4x DIMM 288-pin
2x 3.5" Internal
2x 2.5" Internal

Ports & Slots:

1x PS/2 (Keyboard/Mouse Port)
4x USB 3.1 Gen1 (Supports ESD Protection)
2x USB 2.0 (Supports ESD Protection)
1x HDMI
1x DisplayPort 1.2
1x Optical SPDIF Out Port
1x (RJ45) LAD Port with LED (ACT/LINK LED and SPEED LED)
HD Audio Jacks: Rear Speaker / Central / Bass / Line in / Front Speaker / Microphone (Gold Audio Jacks)

Additional Information:

Liquid Cooled
Power Supply: 650W
Dimensions: 17.7" x 8.07" x 18.1"

But they actually added some more models around the same price. Which one would be the best? We will be using it primarily for music production and some gaming. Nothing terribly hardcore but I would like to play modern games at high enough settings for a few years.

https://www.costco.com/cyberpowerpc-supreme-liquid-cooled-gaming-desktop---10th-gen-intel-core-i7-10700f---geforce-rtx-2070-super%2c-white.product.100661815.html

Processor & Memory:

10th Gen Intel Core™ i7-10700F Processor at 2.9GHz
16GB DDR4 RAM

Drives:

2.0TB SATA Hard Drive + 500GB PCIe NMVe M.2 Solid State Drive
No Optical Drive

Operating System:

Microsoft® Windows 10 Home (64-bit)

Graphics & Video:

8GB NVIDIA GeForce® RTX 2070 SUPER Graphics
Monitor Not Included

Communications:

802.11 Wireless-AC WLAN
10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet LAN (RJ-45 Connector)

Audio:

Integrated 7.1 High Definition Channel Audio Processing

Keyboard & Mouse:

USB Gaming Keyboard
USB 7 Colors RGB Gaming Mouse

Expandability (Total Slots):

2x 3.5" Internal
4X 2.5" Internal
2x PCI-E x16
2x PCI-E x1
1x M.2
4x DIMM 288-pin

Ports & Slots:

1x PS/2 Style
6x USB 3.1 (2x Front, 4x Rear)
2x USB 2.0 (2x Front, 2x Rear)
3x Audio Jack
1X RJ-45 LAN
1 X HDMI
2x DisplayPort

Additional Information:

Liquid Cooled
Power Cord Included
800W Power Supply
Dimensions : 18.9" x 17.6" x 8.9"

https://www.costco.com/ibuypower-tra297dv2-gaming-desktop---9th-gen-intel-core-i7-9700k---geforce-rtx-2070-super.product.100506288.html

Processor & Memory:

9th Gen Intel® Core™ i7-9700K 8 Core Processor 3.6GHz
16GB DDR4 2666MHz RAM

Drives:

2TB 7200RPM SATA Hard Drive + 240GB SATA III Solid State Drive
No Optical Drive

Operating System:

Microsoft® Windows 10 Home (64-bit)

Graphics & Video:

8GB NVIDIA® GeForce® RTX 2070 SUPER™ Graphics

Communications:

Wireless-AC WLAN
10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet LAN

Audio:

Integrated High Definition Channel Audio Processing

Keyboard & Mouse:

Gaming USB Keyboard + Gaming USB Mouse

Expandability (Total Slots/Bays):

1x PCIe 3.0 x16
4x DIMM 288-pin
2x 3.5" Internal
2x 2.5" Internal

Ports & Slots:

1x PS/2 (Keyboard/Mouse Combination Port)
4x USB 3.1 Gen1
2x USB 2.0
1x HDMI
1x Display Port
1x DVI-D Port
1x LAN (RJ45) Port
7.1 Channel Audio
HD Audio Jacks: Line in /Front Speaker / Microphone

Additional Information:

Liquid Cooled
Power Supply: 650W
Dimensions: 17.7" x 8.07" x 18.1"

I know some of you are more serious about PC builds and might have some qualms about these pre-builts. You can let me know if there are MAJOR issues but overall I'm just looking for which of these you would buy for a first PC.

Skyfireblaze · Jun 1, 2020

Serpens007 said:
The problem is that it seeems to be a Bluetooth software problem. DS4 with Windows worked fine before, and both devices work on any other PC so really, I don't know what's going on

What if you completely uninstall DS4Windows, will it pair then? If yes then see if you can get it working with Steam Input rather than DS4Windows. Unlike DS4Windows Steam doesn't mess with any drivers.

Serpens007 · Jun 1, 2020

Skyfireblaze said:
What if you completely uninstall DS4Windows, will it pair then? If yes then see if you can get it working with Steam Input rather than DS4Windows. Unlike DS4Windows Steam doesn't mess with any drivers.

I'll try that today! Though I have to add that bluetooth isn't detecting any device, DS4 or anything, and no matter if DS4 is closed or running

Skyfireblaze · Jun 1, 2020

Serpens007 said:
I'll try that today! Though I have to add that bluetooth isn't detecting any device, DS4 or anything, and no matter if DS4 is closed or running

Okay then it's definitely the bluetooth-receiver that's messed up. Have you tried another USB-port/USB-controller and completely wiping the bluetooth drivers from Device Manager and replugging the dongle?

brain_stew · Jun 1, 2020

Heads up for anyone in the UK looking for some cheap RAM that they don't mind tweaking:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Crucial-Ballistix-BL2K8G32C16U4B-Desktop-Gaming/dp/B083TRRT16/ref=pd_gwm_ci_mcx_mr_hp_m_1?pf_rd_s=grid-2&pf_rd_t=Gateway&pf_rd_i=mobile&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pd_rd_wg=i09fH&pd_rd_r=5671WQ0H8TBQ6K42JXVD&pd_rd_w=Svn3w&pf_rd_r=5671WQ0H8TBQ6K42JXVD&pf_rd_p=18c9def1-6bdc-4356-baaf-918f928ba45c&pd_rd_i=B083TRRT16

16GB (2x8GB) 3200mhz CL16 for just £68. This is Micron Rev. E die so it is very overclocking friendly. I managed to get mine upto 3800mhz CL16 with the "fast" tweaked sub timings from DRAM calculator quite easily and that's the sweet spot for Ryzen 3000 as you won't be able to clock the infinity fabric want higher than that.

Not quite as fast as tweaked Samsung B die but much cheaper and in dual rank mode (4x8GB) it'll trade blows with B die but you'll have twice as much memory for nearly the same cost.

Don't be intimidated by RAM overclocking and timing tuning, the Ryzen DRAM calculator makes it really easy to cut out a lot of the usual trial and error that normally comes with overclocking.

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