I'm looking to build a 1080P PC with a either 1660 super or 1660 ti. I'm currently looking at the motherboard from Asus b450m-a but, kind of a dumb question, what should I look for in a Mobo? How do I know if it's good or bad?
Yeah I gave up trying to explain this to people on every page. It has been frustrating to read this thread lately.Why are you guys buying RTX 2xxx when Ampere is right around the corner?
Why are you guys buying RTX 2xxx when Ampere is right around the corner?
How is this "frustrating" for you....? 🤔Yeah I gave up trying to explain this to people on every page. It has been frustrating to read this thread lately.
Sure some people need something right away for work. But that's not 80%+ of people asking who are just gaming and making luxury purchases.
It's frustrating because it's beating a dead horse. You can calmly explain to someone that we're 4/5s of the way through this GPU cycle and that it's not a good idea to buy a 2080 Ti that launched 18 months ago when we're getting a new product lineup with ~40% gains in < 5 months, and then three more people ask if they should buy this 2070/2080/Ti on the very next page.
I wrote that semi-sarcastically, but my point is if a new CPU/GPU releases in year 202x where x = [this year's integer], why not just wait for it? If x belongs to the set of [x such that x = x + 1 for all x greater than or equal to 1], then fine. Go buy it. No point waiting.
then don't ask.Edit: Its not luxury purchases to some extreme dude...We are talking about $1500 GPU's not people buying their first home. You need to relax. If the cost is so extremely prohibitive for you then wait. But for a lot of people that are buying ~3k+ machines, the cost is fine, so building now, selling the card later and upgrading is NOT that big of a deal.
and then three more people ask if they should buy this 2070/2080/Ti on the very next page.
the thread is 36 pages. Idk. Seems like a legit question to me but tbf I don't come on this thread every day. I have a 2080 super and I feel like I want to know if I made a mistake buying it in NovemberIt's frustrating because it's beating a dead horse. You can calmly explain to someone that we're 4/5s of the way through this GPU cycle and that it's not a good idea to buy a 2080 Ti that launched 18 months ago when we're getting a new product lineup with ~40% gains in < 5 months, and then three more people ask if they should buy this 2070/2080/Ti on the very next page.
Some people even know the answer and they ask anyways bc they are just looking for confirmation bias. It's silly and shortsighted that they can't wait 5 months to make a luxury purchase in order to give themselves an extra 2 years of longevity. It's not like they can't play games for the next four months. But whatever, go ahead and buy now then.
the thread is 36 pages. Idk. Seems like a legit question to me but tbf I don't come on this thread every day. I have a 2080 super and I feel like I want to know if I made a mistake buying it in November
I was talking directly to you in that reply. Of course other people can ask questions. I'm aware of how this thread works.No no.. you have this backwards. People are free to, and will continue to ask for advice about their builds in the thread titled:
"The PC Builders thread: I need a new PC"
You however, can choose to not answer if for whatever reason you cannot do so without finding it "frustrating" as you have put it. People asking questions about PC builds in this thread have done nothing wrong. They are using the thread properly. If it bothers you, stop answering. The rest of us will help them.
Whats the best price I can get for a 2 TB ssd? Anyone know if they go on sale at all?
I'm looking to build a 1080P PC with a either 1660 super or 1660 ti. I'm currently looking at the motherboard from Asus b450m-a but, kind of a dumb question, what should I look for in a Mobo? How do I know if it's good or bad?
Whats the best price I can get for a 2 TB ssd? Anyone know if they go on sale at all?
the thread is 36 pages. Idk. Seems like a legit question to me but tbf I don't come on this thread every day. I have a 2080 super and I feel like I want to know if I made a mistake buying it in November
The MSI tomahawk is a great option for b450. Looks at the vrm temperatures, features you need. The OP recommends hardware unbox a YouTube channel, and I can confirm they do an amazing job. They recommend and test lots of Mobos.
really dude?BAM just like that its December and you are still trying to locate the newly released card at something resembling MSRP. I've done that too many times while suffering on a PC that's old and needs replacement.
yep. done.
Precisely this. If someone comes here and asks if it's a good deal to buy a high-end GPU in May 2020 then you are flat out wrong and doing them a disservice by telling them "yes". This is not a good time to buy a high-end GPU if it's not necessary. There are new cards coming from AMD soon and there are new RTX cards coming from Nvidia around September where the RTX 3070 (or similarly designated equivalent) will purportedly be doing roughly ~95% performance of a 2080 Ti, but at ~$500-600. The 3080 will purportedly be doing 110% of a 2080 Ti. With similar pricing structures to their predecessors. Which is exactly how all of this is supposed to work bc Nvidia wants to be able to sell the 3080 and above to 2080 Ti owners.Listen, if someone is wealthy enough to plop down $1000 today and then do it again in September, more power to them.
But they aren't the same people asking in this thread if 2080 is a good deal right now because money is not a barrier to them.
If you're asking if something is a good deal right now, I'm going to tell you to wait 5 months because that's the right answer. If you want something to tide you over, get a 1660ti and then sell it once Ampere releases.
If I could get a Corsair Force MP600 for $119, would that be a good deal? It is 500GB tho. Not too familiar with m.2 drives.I still dont understand how Samsung EVOs are selling like hotcakes when we have a number of ssds that can keep up or even beat it.
The EVO Plus is even more baffling, at that price you might as well get a Gen 4 SSD.
I know Samsung was king shit back in the day it seems people still holding that notion.....other manufacturers have caught up and for the price beat Samsung.
PCMark 10 is a good way to test what real world usage would be like...simple Read/Write tests are practically useless.
In overall score the EVO is barely better than a Sabrent Rocket and loses to the similarly price Rocket 4.0.
Not that it really matters because access time on pretty much any decent SSD will be amazing, but again it isnt really beating the Rocket.
Worse still the thing runs hotter than its competition.
If I could get a Corsair Force MP600 for $119, would that be a good deal? It is 500GB tho. Not too familiar with m.2 drives.
Oh yes I think I've seen you mention this before. As always thanks for your insight.Should note, a Gen 3 Sabrent Rocket is like 10 ~ 20 dollars more for a 1TB
I am thinking of upgrading the RAM on my PC, feeling the current 16 GB is lacking a bit.
The current RAM I have is 2x8GB (2666 MHz / PC4-21300) unbuffered non-ECC. I was thinking of buying 2x16GB for the remaining two slots, but I have no idea if I am able to have 2x8GB and 2x16GB at the same time. Am I losing any synergy effects doing it like this? Will it work at all? When I built my last PC, which was like 10 years ago, I vaguely recall people/manufacturers to stick to the exact same type/size for all slots on the mobo, dunno if it applies anymore.
The motherboard is a slightly old ASUS ROG STRIX Z370-F GAMING, if it matters. Any help is appreciated, thanks!
Get rid of the 2666, just use 2x16 DDR4 3200 or higher. Putting mismatched RAM will only limit all RAM including your newer and faster ones to the lower speed.I am thinking of upgrading the RAM on my PC, feeling the current 16 GB is lacking a bit.
The current RAM I have is 2x8GB (2666 MHz / PC4-21300) unbuffered non-ECC. I was thinking of buying 2x16GB for the remaining two slots, but I have no idea if I am able to have 2x8GB and 2x16GB at the same time. Am I losing any synergy effects doing it like this? Will it work at all? When I built my last PC, which was like 10 years ago, I vaguely recall people/manufacturers to stick to the exact same type/size for all slots on the mobo, dunno if it applies anymore.
The motherboard is a slightly old ASUS ROG STRIX Z370-F GAMING, if it matters. Any help is appreciated, thanks!
Get rid of the 2666, just use 2x16 DDR4 3200 or higher. Putting mismatched RAM will only limit all RAM including your newer and faster ones to the lower speed.
You want to use higher speed memory in the first place, DDR4 3200 is really cheap these days. Unless your workload demands a massive amount of memory like 8K video editing, 32GB is enough. Not worth risking stability issues by using memory of different timings and brands.Thanks! The ones I am eyeing are not mismatched with the ones I have (2666 MHz / PC4-21300). Not even sure if my mobo supports 3200MHz memory. My question was fundamentally about buying and using a pair that are differently sized from the ones I have, and if that leads to something wonky, such as messing up the dual-channelling.
You want to use higher speed memory in the first place, DDR4 3200 is really cheap these days. Unless your workload demands a massive amount of memory like 8K video editing, 32GB is enough. Not worth risking stability issues by using memory of different timings and brands.
Anyone? Sorry to bump this one up so soon, but I'm eyeing a pair of Corsair Vengeance sticks (2x16GB) that seem very good that are almost running out.
If I retain my current 2x8GB in the A/B channels, and then put in the 2x16GB in the free A/B channels, will both pairs run in dual-channel?
Strangely enough, someone else asked the same on Wednesday (complete with answers). Yes, Dual Channel will work. I think there's a good chance it would also work with miss-matched speeds in the different channels, or worst case you'd have to set the speed for a potentially faster kit manually. (in case you'd want to experiment whether fast RAM does more for you than more RAM, which might be debatable)
I still dont understand how Samsung EVOs are selling like hotcakes when we have a number of ssds that can keep up or even beat it.
It shouldn't. Most hardware ID checks are based on motherboard and CPU.Gotcha, many thanks! The most demanding thing I use the PC for is sound/music production, which is inherently CPU-bottlenecked, but more RAM does help running tons of apps/instruments in parallel.
Now to see if replacing the RAM like this causes issues with software authentications... ugh.
So i'm reading through this thread and basically i'm seeing that for what I want to do, I should just wait till whenever Nvidia releases their new graphics cards (made a post in that ray tracing thread in general gaming and... after a bit more research learned that i could have just fucked myself if I bought a prebuild with a 2080ti (the ones with single fans... now i dont know jack about pc gaming or building a computer, but that doesnt seem right when i see GPUs with 2-3 fans for the most part)
Reason I want to build a computer, well money from unemployment helps me out a ton, I want something to be future proofing myself for a long haul and possibly VR , I think I might be done with consoles since emulation on PCs for anything below a ps3 seem to be good nowadays (and i know ps3 emulation is still in early stages and is very much a brute force method)
It shouldn't. Most hardware ID checks are based on motherboard and CPU.
Like I know that getting a 2080ti will be overkill for the most part for me ATM since I dont have any intentions of buying a 4k monitor *yet* and will likely be using either a 1080p monitor and try to get one with g-sync or some good 1440p monitor. And VR would be a later purchase. The main thing is that, that card will future proof me for a good chunk of games and thats the sole reason i'd want it (I want to play cyberpunk 2077 and have it look awesome) and its not like me not spending the money now will change anything (except knowing my luck, the moment I buy parts or a prebuild, the Ampere will get announced, get a price, the 2080 ti will go on sale and it'll be a week or two after my return/price match policy would expire lol (i've had that luck with other products in my life)The 2080Ti is going to be a good card for a while remember that the 2080Ti is likely only gonna be beaten by the xx80 and xx80Ti of nextgen.
So pretty much you will have the third best graphics card available and be in the top 1%.
Graphics cards these days are smart enough to never kill themselves, one fan, two fans, 3 fans or four.....that card aint gonna die.
Itll throttle itself once it reaches the target temp, you can still alter that figure to let the card go higher.
A 1080Ti is still a good card, and it came out years and years ago.
I do sign up to school of thought that we really should wait atleast until end of May where we hopefully get teasers if not full on reveals of Ampere to actually lock in a purchase.
But if i could afford a 2080Ti machine right now like it will arrive in a week........I would jump on one no question.
Yeah I wanted my first gaming pc and I feel like the "ahhhhhh something new and better is out soon" is unavoidable. I'd rather move than stand still foreverYou have the the second best gaming card on the market and will have had it for nearly a year before a successor is launched. You also got a free 10% performance boost from nvidia because you got the super version.
A year or so of having one of the top gpus on the market is pretty good in the PC space. Your card will also still be a great performer once new cards are released. It isn't obsolete immediately once a new GPU gen launches.
You didn't make a mistake as long you you were comfortable with the amount of money you spent.
I'm starting to rethink my computer build plans for the year. I have a 980ti and 6700k, so I was planning on just doing a full rebuild when the new nvidia cards and ryzen processors came out. But hearing talk that the generation after the next one will bring with it motherboards that support ddr5 and other jumps has me thinking about just replacing my graphics card, case, and power supply this year and waiting. I just don't know how well that 6700k will hold up to Cyberpunk.
That is very impressive.
Im sure it will actually trump the TUF Gaming and Aorus Elite as the go to X570 boards.
A little too little too late though.
B550 is right round the corner...why buy X570 at this price point when you could most likely get a more feature full B550 board.
We accepted X570 pretty much only because there was no other way to get PCIE4 and guaranteed support for Ryzen 3000.
With B550 here we dont need cheap X570 boards anymore.
It's not a 4K capable rig for the most part. 4K gaming on PC in general, is not worth it. Get a 1440p high end Gsync/Freesync monitor instead, like the LG27GL850 and ASUS TUF VG27AQ.Hello guys,
haven't been into the PC market for a few years. Just bought a ton of stuff, and want to know what screen would be good? I don't even know what to expect performance-wise... Can this stuff even run 4K games, or should I look for 144hz? Or should I go all out with an ultrawide? This is what I bought (some flavour text in Norwegian)...
Thank you very much for the answer.It's not a 4K capable rig for the most part. 4K gaming on PC in general, is not worth it. Get a 1440p high end Gsync/Freesync monitor instead, like the LG27GL850 and ASUS TUF VG27AQ. Your rig is also kinda weird. 9900K+B360 is a mismatch, and the SSD is not really a good one.
I'm fairly sure your CPU is a non K version which runs on lower clocks, and can't be overclocked, is also terribly priced. The B360 is in general used with much lower end CPUs, surely not an i9. I'd say, return this if you can, rebuild something more balanced like a Ryzen 3900X + X570, or 9900K+Z390 if you really want to stick to Intel.Thank you very much for the answer.
What's wrong with the MB + 9900K combo?
I could still cancel the order so changed some stuff around.I'm fairly sure your CPU is a non K version which runs on lower clocks, and can't be overclocked, is also terribly priced. The B360 is in general used with much lower end CPUs, surely not an i9. I'd say, return this if you can, rebuild something more balanced like a Ryzen 3900X + X570, or 9900K+Z390 if you really want to stick to Intel.
Get a Ryzen 7 3700X + MSI or ASUS TUF X570. Upgrade your RAM to DDR4 3200 or 3600. Ditch the SSD for a Western Digital Blue SN550 or Samsung 970 EVO if it's within your budget.I could still cancel the order so changed some stuff around.
Does this look better?
Another Motherboard, changed to i7-9700K
I also ordered a 1440p IPS screen, thank you.
9900KF can't be overclocked?I'm fairly sure your CPU is a non K version which runs on lower clocks, and can't be overclocked, is also terribly priced. The B360 is in general used with much lower end CPUs, surely not an i9. I'd say, return this if you can, rebuild something more balanced like a Ryzen 3900X + X570, or 9900K+Z390 if you really want to stick to Intel.