Ah so only the ability to choose these resolutions is unlocked by the DSR setting, not the actual application of it. That clears things up. I guess the hunt continues for my performance issue. Thanks a lot!
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The PC Builders Thread ("I Need a New PC") v3
- Thread starter Crazymoogle
- Start date
- PC Tech OT
Ah so only the ability to choose these resolutions is unlocked by the DSR setting, not the actual application of it. That clears things up. I guess the hunt continues for my performance issue. Thanks a lot!
Monitor Guide
OP
OP
Monitor Guide
When buying a monitor, there are a bunch of things to consider, but there are four you really need to consider before buying:
There are four major screen technologies out there that matter when you're looking to buy a monitor:
To start, there are three "core" resolutions in the PC space you need to know about. (There are others, of course: 1366x768 "720p" old monitors, and 5k or 6k monitors for high-end professional work).
Ultrawides are just as the word suggests: monitors as you see above, but with a wider resolution. So it's really all about two things: (1) aspect ratio and (2) curve.
ASPECT RATIO
Virtually every TV today is 16:9 "widescreen", but it's not the only ratio. In the PC space there are three:
Many ultrawides can also do high refresh rates (144hz, at least) but doing this also causes bandwidth problems (see 4K) and also requires more GPU power (since you're running 1.5 to 2 screens worth of pixels). It's not excessive though:
Many- but not all - ultrawides are curved VA panels. (There are some 21:9 flat IPS, but I believe all 32:9 are VA). The curve can make things look more immersive, but can make things that require strict geometry - like a powerpoint window - look wonky. YMMV. Curvature is rated on a "XXXXR" scale, so, 1800R, 1000R, etc. The bigger the number? the more subtle the curve. 1200R, 1500R, and 1800R are popular curvatures but a lot depends on the screen size you buy. Personally, I think they look really impressive in person, but I've since graduated back to a flat panel. I think your usage method should decide.
Q: What about Response Time and Refresh? What is fast enough?
These are two different specs, but they are closely related:
REFRESH RATE (hz)
A movie plays at 24 frames-per-second (FPS). A game goes from 30-60 FPS depending on your specs. But for most people, no matter how many FPS you have, the screen refreshes the pixels 60 times a second (60hz). Gaming displays have changed that by offering 75hz, then 90hz, 120hz, 144hz, and now even some have 165hz, 240hz, or 300hz. Regardless of your game's frame rate, a high refresh rate is ideal because it makes everything about your PC experience a little smoother (for example, moving the mouse). Modern smartphones are also beginning to go above 60hz, and VR headsets usually prefer 75hz-90hz to minimize motion sickness caused by choppiness.
All of this being said, high refresh rate usually comes at the cost of some color accuracy or other features. So generally speaking a professional, color-calibrated display (or simply an office display) is always going to be 60hz, while a "gaming" display is much more likely to support something higher.
RESPONSE TIME (ms)
Remember the trails and ghosting you saw on the original Game Boy? That's what we call a poor "response time". On an LCD, colors don't turn on/off so much as shift from one color to another - the time it takes to go the spectrum is your "response time". You could have a 300hz display, but if the pixel takes 1 second to update, you're going to see those trails I mentioned - the pixel is where it should be, but the pixels behind it are too slow to change back.
All of that being said, response time is notoriously varied in today's monitors. And if a panel is driven too far, the pixels can overshoot, which causes visual side effects of their own. A good rule of thumb would be 5ms = IPS/AHVA, 1ms = TN. There are some exceptions as AHVA and VA get better, but if you see 1ms or 5ms, you're in good company. High end displays can have much higher response times because they focus on color accuracy; again, they are almost always limited to 60hz though.
Q: What about FreeSync / G-Sync? Do I need those?
So you've heard about refresh rate, but the problem is that with games, the frame rate is never consistent and probably won't match the refresh rate of your monitor. So in the past, games had two solutions:
Premium Services
To make things even more confusing, Nvidia and AMD have extended their specs with even more versions that have different features. And like the USB forum they have even renamed them for maximum confusion...
Q: What about ports? What ports do I need?
Ports are a little bit more of a wild west than on your TV where HDMI has destroyed all challengers:
Yes and no. Dead Pixels are actually one of three things:
Basically, you get what you pay for. I absolutely believe in the cheap market and you can get some amazing panels for as little as $150 USD. But factor in the risk to your budget; maybe the first one is a dud. Or spend big on one of the big brands that has a zero dead pixel warranty. Finally, even the manufacturers with a loose policy (5+ pixels) will make exceptions for buyers with dead pixels in the middle (very obvious), fully stuck (white) or sometimes simply to make your tech support complaint go away. (It never hurts to ask.)
High res displays (QHD or 4K) are of course more likely to have dead pixels (simply by sheer math) but you're also less likely to notice them (smaller pixels). So if you have never tested your panel before...ignorance is bliss?
Q: Okay, but what do I buy?
There are just so many options on the market, but a few stand out:
When buying a monitor, there are a bunch of things to consider, but there are four you really need to consider before buying:
- BUDGET: From $200 to $2000 (or more...)
- SIZE: 24", 27", 32", TV sized?
- PURPOSE: Gaming, work, casual, etc.
- RESOLUTION: 1080p, 1440p, 4K?
There are four major screen technologies out there that matter when you're looking to buy a monitor:
- IPS / AHVA (24", 27", 32")
Many "Office" panels are IPS. They look fine from any angle and are bright even in a well lit room. They used to be the slowest, but now you can find 144hz "fast" panels these days. IPS is the worst at contrast, so if you want inky dark levels look elsewhere, but generally speaking an IPS display impresses the most in a lit room. (LG controlls IPS; AU Optronics owns AHVA, but they are much the same and every AHVA panel is sold as "IPS") IPS panels also tend to have the best color accuracy and generally all high-end ($$$$) panels are IPS.
- VA (27", 32", 34", 39")
See a big, curved display? It's probably a VA panel. VA panels are easy to make big and flexible, and they have the best contrast of any LCD. Downside? Viewing angles are...not great. The more the curve, the bigger the panel...the more obvious it is. Still, they can get impressively large, and most ultrawide panels (21:9 or 32:9) are VA. (VA is not related to AHVA by the way...just similar looking names)
- TN (22, 24")
Back when IPS was slow and VA was expensive, TN was king...because it was cheap. TN has never been great at viewing angles, and can't even achieve true 8-bit color, but if you needed a 24" gaming panel, TN had the market. Now, they are still cheap and plentiful, but TN's big selling point is massive refresh rates. 240hz, 300hz. Numbers ridiculous for most people, but if you fancy yourself a pro-gamer, it might be worth a try. I can't recommend TN in general, but they are the cheapest at 22" and 24" sizes. You can buy bigger TN by the way...just that the problems become more and more noticeable. - OLED (55", 65", 75")
Everyone loves OLED for the amazing contrast and HDR, but sadly it's just not an option for most in the PC space. OLED still has image retention issues, and manufacturers are almost entirely sticking to the smartphone (small) and TV (huge) markets. A few manufacturers have since bridged the gap with "Gamer TVs" - 55" or 65" TVs with DisplayPort and G-Sync. But get your wallet ready, because that's what you're buying: an expensive TV.
To start, there are three "core" resolutions in the PC space you need to know about. (There are others, of course: 1366x768 "720p" old monitors, and 5k or 6k monitors for high-end professional work).
- HD
1080p / 1920x1080 (2 million pixels)
Generally you should only buy a 1080p screen if you're using it for dated hardware. But a 1080p screen is still good for a variety of reasons: pixel perfect PS4 if you want to plug one in, maybe you can only afford a 24" screen, or you want a high refresh rate (200+hz) display. HD screens are the only ones capable of going 200+hz at this time due to the sheer amount of bandwidth required.
- QHD
1440p / 2560x1440 (3.7 million pixels)
QHD is generally the best for working from home. The increase in pixel density means more windows, bigger windows, easier multitasking, etc. It's also the "sweet spot" for gaming today, simply because with half the number of pixels to 4K, you can get a sharp image but still use a variety of video cards. It's also totally fine to play games "under res" (ie: 1080p) on a QHD monitor; it's just that they will look slightly blurry due to pixel interpolation. QHD panels exist up to 175hz so far.
- 4K "UHD"
2160p / 3840x2160 (8.2 million pixels)
UHD is of course the sharpest, but at a heavy cost in rendering power for games. Most desktop GPUs now should be okay, and software has generally updated to support it, but there are weird exceptions now and then. If the panel is too small, it's often best to run 4K at 1080p, since you can pixel double (perfect sharpness) which means that 1080p is totally feasible as a game resolution. Ultimately though 4K is not that popular in the PC space for three clear reasons:
Ultrawides are just as the word suggests: monitors as you see above, but with a wider resolution. So it's really all about two things: (1) aspect ratio and (2) curve.
ASPECT RATIO
Virtually every TV today is 16:9 "widescreen", but it's not the only ratio. In the PC space there are three:
- 16:9 (1920x1080, 2560x1440) The standard.
- 21:9 (2560x1080, 3440x1440) Basically 1.5 screens wide.
- 32:9 (3840x1080, 5120x1440) Basically 2.0 screens wide.
Many ultrawides can also do high refresh rates (144hz, at least) but doing this also causes bandwidth problems (see 4K) and also requires more GPU power (since you're running 1.5 to 2 screens worth of pixels). It's not excessive though:
- 2560x1080 (21:9) 2.7m pixels (less than QHD)
- 3440x1440 (21:9) 4.9m pixels (less than 4K)
- 3440x1080 (32:9) 3.7m pixels (same as QHD)
- 5120x1440 (32:9) 7.3m pixels (less than 4K)
Many- but not all - ultrawides are curved VA panels. (There are some 21:9 flat IPS, but I believe all 32:9 are VA). The curve can make things look more immersive, but can make things that require strict geometry - like a powerpoint window - look wonky. YMMV. Curvature is rated on a "XXXXR" scale, so, 1800R, 1000R, etc. The bigger the number? the more subtle the curve. 1200R, 1500R, and 1800R are popular curvatures but a lot depends on the screen size you buy. Personally, I think they look really impressive in person, but I've since graduated back to a flat panel. I think your usage method should decide.
Q: What about Response Time and Refresh? What is fast enough?
These are two different specs, but they are closely related:
REFRESH RATE (hz)
A movie plays at 24 frames-per-second (FPS). A game goes from 30-60 FPS depending on your specs. But for most people, no matter how many FPS you have, the screen refreshes the pixels 60 times a second (60hz). Gaming displays have changed that by offering 75hz, then 90hz, 120hz, 144hz, and now even some have 165hz, 240hz, or 300hz. Regardless of your game's frame rate, a high refresh rate is ideal because it makes everything about your PC experience a little smoother (for example, moving the mouse). Modern smartphones are also beginning to go above 60hz, and VR headsets usually prefer 75hz-90hz to minimize motion sickness caused by choppiness.
All of this being said, high refresh rate usually comes at the cost of some color accuracy or other features. So generally speaking a professional, color-calibrated display (or simply an office display) is always going to be 60hz, while a "gaming" display is much more likely to support something higher.
RESPONSE TIME (ms)
Remember the trails and ghosting you saw on the original Game Boy? That's what we call a poor "response time". On an LCD, colors don't turn on/off so much as shift from one color to another - the time it takes to go the spectrum is your "response time". You could have a 300hz display, but if the pixel takes 1 second to update, you're going to see those trails I mentioned - the pixel is where it should be, but the pixels behind it are too slow to change back.
All of that being said, response time is notoriously varied in today's monitors. And if a panel is driven too far, the pixels can overshoot, which causes visual side effects of their own. A good rule of thumb would be 5ms = IPS/AHVA, 1ms = TN. There are some exceptions as AHVA and VA get better, but if you see 1ms or 5ms, you're in good company. High end displays can have much higher response times because they focus on color accuracy; again, they are almost always limited to 60hz though.
Q: What about FreeSync / G-Sync? Do I need those?
So you've heard about refresh rate, but the problem is that with games, the frame rate is never consistent and probably won't match the refresh rate of your monitor. So in the past, games had two solutions:
- V-Sync Framerate: Sync the frame to the refresh rate of the monitor, no matter what. Extra frames are discarded.
- Unlocked Framerate: Show a frame when it's ready, no matter what. If the monitor is already refreshing, you see "tearing", where one half of the frame is ahead of the other.
- G-SYNC requires an Nvidia graphics card and a custom chip in the monitor that Nvidia supplies. This means G-Sync can kick in as low as 0hz, but G-Sync monitors are always more expensive as monitor manufacturers pass on the cost to us. (From 0-30hz frame doubling is used)
- FreeSync does not require a chip and is, as it says, open, so it's way more popular with monitor manufacturers. The downside is that every monitor has its own "range" of supported framerates where FreeSync is active. Nvidia originally did not support FreeSync but in 2019 allowed basic, backdoor support of the standard if you manually enable it. You do need a GTX 1000 series card or better though.
Premium Services
To make things even more confusing, Nvidia and AMD have extended their specs with even more versions that have different features. And like the USB forum they have even renamed them for maximum confusion...
- FreeSync (Removes tearing at the framerate range supported by the monitor)
- FreeSync Premium (AKA "FreeSync 2": adds frame doubling to allow 0-30hz support)
- FreeSync Premium Pro (AKA "FreeSync 2 HDR": adds HDR support)
- G-Sync (Removes tearing from 0-360hz)
- G-Sync Compatible (A FreeSync monitor NVidia has tested to work with G-Sync)
- G-Sync Ultimate (Adds HDR support)
Q: What about ports? What ports do I need?
Ports are a little bit more of a wild west than on your TV where HDMI has destroyed all challengers:
- DisplayPort
The defacto standard because it's free to license. It's a rectangular plug with one slanted edge. There are two flavors right now: 1.2 and 1.4, but any somewhat modern video card should support both. If you are running a high refresh rate display chances are you will need DisplayPort. A new version (2.0) is coming in 2021 with support for extreme refresh rates, 8K panels, etc but you also need a new cable and video card to support it.
- HDMI
The TV standard is still popular here too, and a lot of video cards also have an HDMI port. HDMI bandwidth is less than that of DisplayPort, but a new version (2.1) is slowly filtering into the market with support for high refresh rates, high resolution, and variable refresh rate (VRR, or basically FreeSync) support for TVs and the next generation of game consoles. HDMI is a small rectangular plug with two slanted edges. Yes, this means you can plug-in a PS4 to virtually any PC monitor with HDMI, and then change inputs to toggle between PS4/PC.
- DVI
The old standard is almost dead, but some video cards still have it. DVI is a large rectangular plug with three rows of pins. It can't transfer audio and is extremely bandwidth limited, so on some old monitors two DVI cables had to be used in parallel. If you need this your system is too old; the port has been dropped from most video cards as a way to save space on the back (and add more DP/HDMI ports).
Yes and no. Dead Pixels are actually one of three things:
- Dead (pixel is broken)
- Partially dead (the R, G, or B subpixel is broken)
- Stuck (the R, G, or B pixel is locked "on")
Basically, you get what you pay for. I absolutely believe in the cheap market and you can get some amazing panels for as little as $150 USD. But factor in the risk to your budget; maybe the first one is a dud. Or spend big on one of the big brands that has a zero dead pixel warranty. Finally, even the manufacturers with a loose policy (5+ pixels) will make exceptions for buyers with dead pixels in the middle (very obvious), fully stuck (white) or sometimes simply to make your tech support complaint go away. (It never hurts to ask.)
High res displays (QHD or 4K) are of course more likely to have dead pixels (simply by sheer math) but you're also less likely to notice them (smaller pixels). So if you have never tested your panel before...ignorance is bliss?
Q: Okay, but what do I buy?
There are just so many options on the market, but a few stand out:
- 24" 144hz HD (TN): You just need a gaming monitor and are not picky on the details.
- 24" 240hz HD (TN): If you're obsessed with your aim in Counter-Strike or Overwatch.
- 27" 144hz QHD (IPS): If you want a great work from home + games experience.
- 32" 60hz 4K (IPS): If you want to split time with PS5
- 34" 21:9 120hz UWQHD (VA): If you want a cinematic ultrawide experience.
- 55" OLED: If you want the best HDR.
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OP
OP
I really need to add some images to the monitor guide, hopefully I didn't mess up anything?
In your photo, the radiator is that tall brick on the inside front of the case. All of the thin metal stuff on it are fins. Anyway, on the back of that radiator are 2x 120mm fans. They each have a thin black wire going somewhere. Just find out where and unplug them, then try to boot into the BIOS. If you still have a sound? It's the pump. (Unless you have a big silver hard drive that is noisy)
In your photo, the radiator is that tall brick on the inside front of the case. All of the thin metal stuff on it are fins. Anyway, on the back of that radiator are 2x 120mm fans. They each have a thin black wire going somewhere. Just find out where and unplug them, then try to boot into the BIOS. If you still have a sound? It's the pump. (Unless you have a big silver hard drive that is noisy)
I'm having kind of a weird issue with Display Port. A couple of days ago I got this new cable, and after some trouble plugging it in properly (there's a small "ridge" on the case near the port), I managed to get everything working properly. As in, I got perfectly working video, audio and even FreeSync/G-Sync.
Both yesterday and today, when turning the PC on, I get at first no signal. If I then turn it off and on again (I do wiggle some cable in between, just to make sure), it works as usual again. Any ideas on the possible reason for this? Maybe it's just the cable being a bit loose, but I would expect some issues while it's turned on as well, if that was the case.
Both yesterday and today, when turning the PC on, I get at first no signal. If I then turn it off and on again (I do wiggle some cable in between, just to make sure), it works as usual again. Any ideas on the possible reason for this? Maybe it's just the cable being a bit loose, but I would expect some issues while it's turned on as well, if that was the case.
OP
OP
Not sure but you could try (1) a different cable (2) reversing the cable and (3) using a different port (either on the monitor or the video card depending on what you have)
I am so conflicted on monitor/TVs to buy. Is there a consensus best PC gaming monitor regardless of price?
I have been waiting for the Samsung Odyssey G9 to release, but I don't know if that's the best option. Is an OLED (either the 55 or the new 48) better options for general gameplay?
I have been waiting for the Samsung Odyssey G9 to release, but I don't know if that's the best option. Is an OLED (either the 55 or the new 48) better options for general gameplay?
OP
OP
I didn't cover "money is no object" but no, it still depends on what you want.
- Predator X35: 35" UWQHD FALD + 200hz VA + G-Sync Ultimate
- HP Omen X Emperium: 65" 4K OLED + 144hz G-Sync Ultimate (or LG C9?)
- LG 38GL950G-B: 38" UWQHD (3840x1600) Nano IPS + 144/175hz G-Sync (only HDR400 though)
I'll see if it happens again tomorrow, then I'll try it. I don't have another cable at the moment (not another DisplayPort at least, and this doesn't happen with HDMI), and I'm using the "best" port from the GPU, since in the others the ridge is much more in the way. I still think it's really weird, considering how everything works perfectly.
LG C9, LG CX
Is pretty much the gaming gold standard right now.
Samsungs are only slightly brighter if thats what you are looking for.
Large, HDR, OLED, 120Hz, HDMI 2.1, 4K.
No Display Port though...Nvidia be warned.
Also its thin as fuck
For Nvidia users the HP Omen is also a king killer.
Assuming the 3000 series supports HDMI 2.1 the Samsung and LG will be back on top for everyone.
A while ago I had purchased a completely new system and had it made for my by the company I bought it from, everything works as intended but I have a question about a weird noise. There's this high pitched screeching noise coming from my motherboard where my CPU is located. I haven't overclocked or anything. Anyone know what might be up? It's also there when I'm just on my desktop browsing the internet.
Here's the specs:
MPG Z390 GAMING PLUS
Intel Core i7 9700
GTX 2080 Super
16 GB RAM.
Here's the specs:
MPG Z390 GAMING PLUS
Intel Core i7 9700
GTX 2080 Super
16 GB RAM.
Alright, on my GIGABYTE board it's called CSM. If I have CSM enabled my booting always happens on my second monitor, if I disable CSM it honors whatever monitor I previously set to Primary in Windows.
Congratulations on your purchase. I hope to read some impressions.
I'll be honest "banggood.com" doesn't fill me with confidence :PI've also been looking into buying myself a new monitor. I'm a fan of ultrawides though and really want something that is high refresh rate so i stumbled across this Xiaomi:
Original XIAOMI Curved Gaming Monitor 34-Inch 21:9 Bring Fish Screen 144Hz High Refresh Rate 1500R Curvature WQHD 3440*1440 Resolution 121% sRGB Wide Color Gamut Free-Sync Technology Display
Only US$649.99, buy best Original XIAOMI Curved Gaming Monitor 34-Inch 21:9 Bring Fish Screen 144Hz High Refresh Rate 1500R Curvature WQHD 3440*1440 Resolution 121% sRGB Wide Color Gamut Free-Sync Technology Display sale online store at wholesale price.www.banggood.com
only thing is that it needs importing. reviews for the site online are good and they claim that import tax is included in the price. anyone here have any experience with banggood or importing from china?
Built a pc and I'm pretty sure my power supply is doa as I can't get any sign of power on the motherboard. I've tried the paperclip test, but want to be sure.
If I connected the PSU to the mains and only connected it to the pc fan (to avoid connecting it to the motherboard) would the power supply start up or does it need the main 24 pin connected to power on?
If I connected the PSU to the mains and only connected it to the pc fan (to avoid connecting it to the motherboard) would the power supply start up or does it need the main 24 pin connected to power on?
My last standing of knowledge is that a PSU needs the 24-pin connected (or the paperclip-trick) to start up.
Thank you - I've ordered a new one so will see how that goes when it arrives.
Is there a good recomendation (price/quality) for a monitor like this?
I'm based in UK.
OP
OP
I'm based in SE Asia right now so it's difficult to give exact recommendations, but I can pull from the internets a bit...
You know, I said 144hz but I realize most UWQHD is still 120hz. :( The cheap brands you get out of China (that end up in products like the Prism+ X340) are usually 120hz panels with 1500R curvature. I will update the sheet.
I think from mainstream models there is:
AOC CU34G2X
UWQHD (3440x1440)
144hz FreeSync VA panel
It looks like it released as of February this year, suggesting 144hz UWQHD VA is only now hitting the market.
You know, I said 144hz but I realize most UWQHD is still 120hz. :( The cheap brands you get out of China (that end up in products like the Prism+ X340) are usually 120hz panels with 1500R curvature. I will update the sheet.
I think from mainstream models there is:
- Alienware 3420DW (1900R, 120hz)
- ASUS ROG Swift PG349Q (1900R, 1280hz)
- AOC AGON AG342UCG6
- probably a few others...
AOC CU34G2X
UWQHD (3440x1440)
144hz FreeSync VA panel
It looks like it released as of February this year, suggesting 144hz UWQHD VA is only now hitting the market.
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Ok I need to try and find a similar setting in the Asus BIOS.
Thank you so much for your guide. Its helped me a lot.
I really want to get the
LG 27GL850-B
but its sold out everywhere.
Is LG factories down or something because of the pandemic? I might just settle for
Acer Nitro XV272U
when i take a trip to microcenter next week if theres still no word on the LG panels showing up.
I got all my new PC parts and I'm building it today. Had a thought to maintain my Win10 license.
Got my current boot drive on a sata SSD
Going to see if I can boot it with my new parts enough to reactivate it
Then do a clean install
Then once done, I'll try to do a clone of the sata drive to the NVME drive
Then once done wipe the sata SSD so that I can use it for other stuff.
Think that should work. Any thoughts?
Got my current boot drive on a sata SSD
Going to see if I can boot it with my new parts enough to reactivate it
Then do a clean install
Then once done, I'll try to do a clone of the sata drive to the NVME drive
Then once done wipe the sata SSD so that I can use it for other stuff.
Think that should work. Any thoughts?
Does anyone know if a Phanteks Halos Lux Digital LED 120mm Fan Frame will fit onto a Noctua NH-U12S CPU cooler?
Opinions on this pre-built on sale at Newegg? https://www.newegg.com/skytech-st-blaze-ii-0007-ne/p/N82E16883289042?item=N82E16883289042
From the OP:
Setup and Overclocking
Want to know exactly what you bought? Or figure out what kind of overclocking room you may have? Try these.
- CPU-Z: Displays CPU, Motherboard, and Memory info.
- GPU-Z: Displays extremely detailed Graphics Card info.
- MSI Afterburner: Videocard overclocking, temps, fans. Works on non-MSI cards.
- AMD Ryzen Master: Overclocking/temps for AMD CPUs. Installs some power plans that are good for AMD Builds.
- WizTree: Visual display of your files, great for figuring out how to make space on your SSD.
- Macrium Reflect Free Edition: Clone a drive or make an exact backup for later.
- HWiNFO: Not as obvious as CPU-Z but it lets you do realtime temperature/fan monitoring, if you need that.
'awesome - thanks. Went for the more expensive nvme in the end to get more space (used all my sata ports for now). When that eventually starts to fill I'll replace the 256gb SSD with either another 1-2TB SSD or a 4-6TB HDD
Thats what I would have done, good choice.
Rather get the space than the speed when the speed isnt that important.
And def down the line replace the 256....a large HDD could be better value to you as a user since space seems to be what matters more than the actual speed.
At the rate you are going down the line youll probably have your own NAS hahaha.
oh I've got one of those in the living room already :) HP micro server with unraid for bluray and dvd rips
the game installs snuck up on me though so I underestimated at the start.
I have used this site a ton for FPV quadcopter parts/misc items over the past few years, they have always been above board. Bad name for sure, but good deals on products and reliable in my experience.
If you do order through them, try and find something at their US warehouse as the CN one can take quite a while in shipping.
I got everything on my system setup and running. One problem is that my RAM seems to be clocking down to 2133MHz instead of the 3600 that it's set to. I tried to update the BIOS of the mobo, an Asrock x570 Phantom Gaming 4. The RAM is in the 1st and 3rd slot. I also tried to set the XMP profile and set the frequency to 3600 but it doesn't seem to matter. Not sure if I'm doing something wrong. Any ideas?
This is what CPUZ shows:
I know it should probably show at least 1800MHz since it's dual channel. But based on this it's running at 2133. In the wrong slots?
This is what CPUZ shows:
I know it should probably show at least 1800MHz since it's dual channel. But based on this it's running at 2133. In the wrong slots?
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Can anybody tell me if a dark rock 4 cooler will fit on an ASUS x570 TUF Gaming with this ram https://www.microcenter.com/product...el_Desktop_Memory_Kit_CMK16GX4M2D3200_-_Black ram height and cpu fan clearance and stuff is a bit in the weeds for me and I don't really understand lol. I just want to know everything will work. Case is a Fractal Meshify C
I got everything on my system setup and running. One problem is that my RAM seems to be clocking down to 2133MHz instead of the 3600 that it's set to. I tried to update the BIOS of the mobo, an Asrock x570 Phantom Gaming 4. The RAM is in the 1st and 3rd slot. I also tried to set the XMP profile and set the frequency to 3600 but it doesn't seem to matter. Not sure if I'm doing something wrong. Any ideas?
This is what CPUZ shows:
I know it should probably show at least 1800MHz since it's dual channel. But based on this it's running at 2133. In the wrong slots?
Here's my BIOS:
Does anyone know what could be happening? Is it possible this board doesn't support this speed?
Wait... nvm. I think it's working now. I moved the RAM to slot 1 and 2 and reset the XMP profile and now it's showing the correct speed. Weird. NVM!
Sorry for posting a few times but trying to wrap my head around this. So as I mentioned, I have the RAM in slot 1 and 2, and now it's showing the proper frequency but CPUZ is showing this now:
The NB Frequency is concerning to me, and it's showing Single Channel. Any advice? Not sure if it's configured correctly or not.
The NB Frequency is concerning to me, and it's showing Single Channel. Any advice? Not sure if it's configured correctly or not.
OP
OP
Slots 1 and 2: channel 1
Slots 3 and 4: channel 2
So basically, you halved your bandwidth by only using channel 1. You can try using 2,4 instead.
Beyond that, ignore the SPD tab. As you can see the only profile that matters is XMP. All you care about is if the Memory Tab shows the ~1800 MHz. I would give XMP a go again using 2, 4 and see if it worked. Beyond that you could try manually setting the XMP timings, but if the motherboard is set to XMP it should not show anything beyond that (unless it's failing after BIOS post) The motherboard supports the clock so no worries there.
Thanks for that info. I put it in 2 and 4 and now it's showing 3600 frequency in the BIOS and the XMP profile is loaded. CPUZ shows dual channel but the NB Frequency is still showing 899.MHz, but the DRAM Frequency shows 1799 which looks correct.
Is... that correct? Assume DRAM being 1800 is correct as you said, and since 899 is half of that... probably OK?
I am looking to upgrade my wife pc. Mostly for gaming, and some light photoshop work. I am trying to decide between ryzen 3600 or 3700x. Would the MB work with the new AMD ryzen chip that is slated to come out later this year? If they are the same chipset and I do not need a new mobo then I am leaning to just get her a 3600 and getting the newer one once it drops and building a machine with the 3600 for my son.
I been out of the PC hardware game for a few years so its all new to me lol.
I been out of the PC hardware game for a few years so its all new to me lol.
OP
OP
Korea is still mostly operational, including LG. But the transport supply chain is shakier, especially to the US.
- LG 27GL850-B: QHD 144hz IPS (8bit+FRC) + USB3 Hub
- LG 27GL850-A: QHD 144hz IPS (8bit)
- Nitro XV272U: QHD 144hz AHVA (8bit+FRC) + USB3 Hub
- Pixio PX7: QHD 144-165hz AHVA (8bit+FRC)
I don't know for a fact if it fits, but the NH-U12S uses a 120mm standard NF-F12 fan, which strongly suggests it would work. The only challenge is that since it's attached by a clip, it might be a bit harder to squeeze in the Halos. Of course, it's just a simple and flexible metal clip so worst case, use some pliers to give it a bit more room.
- Ryzen 5 3600 ($175)
- RTX 2070 Super ($500)
- B450M Motherboard with WiFi 5 ($85)
- 16GB DDR4 3000 RAM ($68)
- 500GB SSD ($70)
- Skytech mATX TG Mid Tower (~$50)
- 550W Bronze PSU ($55)
- Rando KBM (~$30)
- Windows 10 Home ($110)
- Assembly
- TOTAL: $1050 (vs. $1147 on partpicker)
I have that MB and case, but the DR4 Slim instead of the regular DR4. The Vengeance LPX looks extremely low profile so I have to believe it fits. I found evidence online that they fit under a Dark Rock PRO 3, so that's a really, really good sign. Some further research suggests its fine as long as you use Slots 2 and 4 (not 1 and 3). This link has an image of someone using a DR4 with the RGB Vengeance, so that sounds like a "yes".
The North Bridge part is weird. Maybe you need a BIOS reset? (My NB shows exactly the same clock as DRAM on the memory tab). The NB clock should be the infinity fabric speed. Try a BIOS reset...that's really crazy.
Yeah I think a 3600 is fine for you. If you want to upgrade to Ryzen 4000 later, you should aim for a X570 motherboard. I would not expect a prebuilt to be compatible later. (3600 can use B450 (old) or X570 (new) chipsets)
What CPU are you using?
Depends on the motherboard... What type is it? x370? x570? B450? etc? Most of the newer types will work with the new Zen 3 CPUs that are slated to come out later this year, but Zen 4 will require new mobos/ram if the rumours are to be believed.
Hmm, I'll try that tomorrow and take a look again at my BIOS and see if I missed anything in there before.
AMD Ryzen 7 3700x
Crazymoogle Raydonn I just checked my BIOS settings again. I set the XMP profile and set the Infinity Fabric setting to 1800MHz (it was set to Auto before). Now CPUZ looks correct I believe:
