Thanks guys, I'm going to get a 3TB WD Blue then :P I don't really like external ones, I have a small 2.5" 500gb one in case I need it but I don't want the bulk of a full size HDD laying around.
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The PC Builders Thread ("I Need a New PC") v3
- Thread starter Crazymoogle
- Start date
- PC Tech OT
Sorry to quote myself here guys, please do tell me if there's another thread this would be better placed in!
Hey guys!
Apologies if this is the wrong place to put this! Basically, I'm having a problem with my Cooler Master in a PC I bought from CyberPower that arrived Saturday 28th March. This is the PC and I bought it exactly as is, no further customisation:
Next Day Infinity X99 Super SY1161
Next Day Infinity X99 Super SY1161 <br/> <br/> <br/> <br/> <br/>www.cyberpowersystem.co.uk
Everything else about the PC seems to be fine, however I feared that there was an issue with the Cooling Master having air bubbles in it that might have crept in while the unit was in transit.
I recorded a video of what I was hearing and posted it here:
I even made a thread on the official Cyber Power forum which I've responded to with updates four times now and has seemingly just gone ignored:
Should my cooler be making this noise? - Gaming PC Forum | Cyberpower UK Forum
Hi all,I recently bought the INFINITY X99 SUPER SY1161, which arrived on Saturday 28th March. In the last few days of use however, I've become more...www.cyberpowersystem.co.uk
So I had a look around in the BIOS and saw that my fans were set to PWM. Interestingly, setting them to DC seemed to reduce the noise drastically - albeit not remove it entirely. I was played RAGE 2 maxed out last night and could still hear the Cooler Master making the same noises now and again, just much lower.
Last Thursday I spoke to someone from CyberPower and explained the situation, and they said "If it gets rid of the problem running the fans in DC, then just run them in DC, that'll be fine" and he also suggested tilting the unit around or laying it on its side. I tilted the unit around a bunch of times while it was on, as he suggested, and I laid it on its side for over 24 hours, and nothing changed.
Has anyone ever experienced anything like this before? Is there any reason anybody can think of why changing my fan settings to DC would somehow reduce the issue with the Cooler Master, while not entirely removing it?
Thing is, in any other environment I'd just tell them I'd be enacting my consumer rights and send this thing back for a refund or repayment, but it's an absolute ball-ache to have to go through that whole process in this current bizarro-land we're in for the time being so I really don't know what to do. Similarly, if I ask them for a replacement water cooler I'm not remotely confident installing that thing myself and doing so will apparently affect the warranty too.
Sorry for the long post, I'm just... unsure what the heck to do right now...
Oh wow, a chopstick would actually be perfect -- will have to get a set and add them to my maintenance kit! Thanks!
So I got 2 drives, a Samsung 860 EVO and WD Blue SN550, and have no idea about the difference of the 2. What is the best Windows boot drive between the 2? What's the best drive for installing games and installing work software (graphics, 3d, video, coding software etc)?
Drive advice. I'm constantly fridge managing and want it get recommended options
- 256GB boot SSD. Gets full quickly for photos etc but have now moved my photos library to a HDD
- 1TB SSD for apps/games - gets full quickly as I install recent games there
- 1TB HDD for storage : music/photos/music and games that are smaller or don't need an SSD
should I add another 1TB SSD or consider a larger size SSD as a main game/app drive and move the current 1TB to more a backup role? Any issues with adding more drives (1TB still seems a sweet spot for SSD prices)
How are those of you with existing builds expanding storage when you get full?
- 256GB boot SSD. Gets full quickly for photos etc but have now moved my photos library to a HDD
- 1TB SSD for apps/games - gets full quickly as I install recent games there
- 1TB HDD for storage : music/photos/music and games that are smaller or don't need an SSD
should I add another 1TB SSD or consider a larger size SSD as a main game/app drive and move the current 1TB to more a backup role? Any issues with adding more drives (1TB still seems a sweet spot for SSD prices)
How are those of you with existing builds expanding storage when you get full?
OP
OP
- I would put Windows on the NVMe (SN550). It's the fastest, and depending on your software probably the best place to put all of your WFH software.
- The 860 EVO is older (and I believe 2.5"?) so that works just fine for your games. You won't notice a difference between the two for games, yet.
Are you just using 2.5"/3.5" drives?
Modern builds are NVMe sticks. One of them should be your boot main (and ideally 1-2TB) with a SATA HDD for slow bulk storage. Most ATX motherboards support 2x NVMe so you have room to grow, although the problem is if you go over 2x NVMe you have to start using PCIe slots and adapters.
I suspect you should aim for another 1TB SSD, but it really depends on the format. If you aren't using NVMe or don't have it you may want to consider an adapter card.
Thank you, I made a mistake on putting it on my 860 EVO, is there an efficient way to transfer my windows directory to the other drive?
Motherboard is a gigabyte n55 I think - smaller form factor in a bitfenix prodigy. Need to check if I havE NVMe options. Or even pci expansion beyond the gpu (although may need that for usb 3 card for oculus link)
is it worth moving the boot drive or just add as extra app storage
Im sure there are people with more AIO experience in the thread.
They will show up soon enough.
Im not familiar with that specific AIO so im not fully sure, my advice may be completely wrong.
But if it has 4pin connectors, in the BIOS set the pump to PWM and set it to a constant 50% and hear the sound its making.
Then slowly ramp up the percentages to try find the point that you can recreate the noise.
In DC mode it theoretically is running at 100% why that would cause the sound to be reduced is confusing.
I avoid AIOs like the plague, ive had a custom loop and during any maintenance I wold constantly hate my self and just decided water wasnt worth it.
Plus I lost the spark i used to have overclocking stuff so now a big aircoolers gets the job done for my mild overclocks.
I always get the best bang for buck bigger or faster SSD and clone my current SSD to it when I need to expand my C drive.
My fast game and apps drive is 1TB SSD, I wont be filling that up as im still old school and treat SSDs like they are pre-Windows 7 HDDs.(used to be my C drive)
My games and other apps SSD is 2TB SATA SSD....im probably only gonna upgrade this when 4+TB SSDs are relatively cheap.
Got a ton of HDD storage for pretty much everything else. Small documents, music, manga and even some games all that stuff that speed isnt mission critical.
Looking at your build this is how I would manage things.
1TB Nvme - Boot and mission critical apps
1TB SSD - Other apps and games
1TB HDD - upgrade this to like 4 or 6TB HDD and store all speed isnt critical stuff here
Buy a 2TB SATA SSD for fast games if you keep filling up your 1TB SSD with games.
Spare 256 SSD left over....always a good idea to have a spare drive that can be used in emergencies.
Use cloning software in OP to transfer things over.
OP
OP
Not really a mistake, honestly. You won't see a major perf boost on windows itself. Apps? Depends on the app. So you can adapt to what you have now. Maybe there is a way to transfer Windows but I'm not up to speed on drive cloning...
H55? Really struggling to find the board, all of the ones I found pre-date M.2 slots.
My opinion on moving the boot drive is personal; I find windows easier to deal with if you just start over and have room to use those default folders. But that takes some work too, so maybe you find it easier to just add another drive and put stuff there. Nothing wrong with that and motherboards will continue to have tons of SATA ports for the forseeable future. If you want to future proof, though, you'd want a 1TB NVMe M.2 drive, and possibly a PCIe adapter card to use it if your motherboard has no support for M.2 and NVMe. As Black_Stride says, generally builds today are booted from a 1TB NVMe with extra drives added of your choosing.
No worries, it's probably a few seconds difference anyway. Thanks for the help
OP
OP
Question: Have you tried using a different fan with the radiator? I mean I can definitely hear the popcorn but I can't be certain thats from the pump or from the fans. I guess you could rule it out really quickly by unplugging them. If the sound continues well, that's an issue in the loop. :(
The DC thing is interesting but kinda feels like the wrong road. I mean, it's entirely possible the fan curve sucks and you need to redo it, but if it's always popcorn then that suggests the loop. Usually when there is a bubble problem there people recommend putting the case upside down (not tilted, but completely 180) or if necessary uninstalling the radiator end and shaking it a bit while it runs. I'm afraid that's all anecdotal but the basic idea is that if it's a bubble, those actions might help to break it up. The fan might affect the sound or speed of the bubbles passing but the fan can't get rid of the bubble by itself.
So i wanted to change my 7 years old OCZ 600W PSU which is getting loud, my PC has an i5 9600k overclocked at 4.9ghz and RTX 2060, besides that i have 2 sata SSD and one NVMe SSD and a few fans. with a 75 euro budget i was thinking about getting the EVGA Supernova 450 GM, which is cool since is full modular and has the smaller SFX form factor which could be useful if someday i wanted to switch to micro ITX case again, but it only output 450W 80% gold certified, will it be enough or i should get one with more Watt, which for the same price would be the Cooler Master MasterWatt 550W which has mow Watt but has the ATX form factor, 80% bronze, and is only semi-modular. Which one should i get? would 450W be enough?
That's like avoiding bathtubs because you almost drowned in the ocean once. AIOs doesn't require maintenance.
That's the thing... I don't really know what I'm doing here. Even getting all the info provided and going into BIOS to set between PWM and DC is already far more than I've ever really done with a PC, so I don't really know where to start :-/
Thanks (And to crazymoogle). Completely wrong on the MB - I think I had a gigabyte before but must have replaced it when I went from 3570 to 6700k.
Have an ASUS Z170 Pro gaming MB.
4 SATA 6 ports in use (Boot SSD, apps SSD, storage HDD, Bluray drive for ripping movies mainly).
BIOS does list an M2 slot which is not populated so that would be a simple option to put in a boot drive, clone across and then frees up a SATA slot for a larger SSD (or just use the M2 as a storage SSD)
I avoid bananas in everything because I chocked on one when I was ten.
A soft yolked egg dripped on my shirt once and my brother laughed at me....all my eggs are now burnt to a crisp.
I once vomited because I had malaria and drank an energade (electrolyte energy drink) Ive never had an energade since the early 2000s
Dont judge me!
Here's my Fan BIOS if this is at all helpful?
DC
PWM
OP
OP
The curve looks the same, although on DC it's not like you can control it much anyway.
The radiator is a big brick with a bunch of metal fins inside. The tubes from your CPU go straight there. Two fans are covering the radiator to keep it cool. Each of the fans has a wire coming out of it for power; you should be able to just trace it and unplug it somewhere while the power on the system is off.
Basically, if you unplug the fan power and don't hear the weird noise when you boot into BIOS, you know its a fan problem. If you still hear the noise, it's probably bubbles in the pump (or some other pump issue) Obviously don't try to run games or anything but you can absolutely at least boot the PC into bios without the fans on the radiator.
The radiator is a big brick with a bunch of metal fins inside. The tubes from your CPU go straight there. Two fans are covering the radiator to keep it cool. Each of the fans has a wire coming out of it for power; you should be able to just trace it and unplug it somewhere while the power on the system is off.
Basically, if you unplug the fan power and don't hear the weird noise when you boot into BIOS, you know its a fan problem. If you still hear the noise, it's probably bubbles in the pump (or some other pump issue) Obviously don't try to run games or anything but you can absolutely at least boot the PC into bios without the fans on the radiator.
I managed to speak to someone from Cyber Power and they said "If the PC isn't overheating then it just sounds like a noisy pump. The pumps themselves are not marketed as "silent" as such, so will make some noise whilst in operation".
They've offered to send me a replacement unit to install myself but I seriously don't know the first thing about doing all this so now I'm paranoid it's not the bloody CM at all.
Does your pc have a 3.5" mechanical hard drive? Because that's what the sound on the video sounds like to me at normal volume, turned up it could be anything. Either way, the PWM/DC value you're changing in the bios seems to be for the pump. From the video the cable that's wrapped around the tubes and plugged in to the CPU FAN 1 -header seems to be a 3-pin cable that the pump has and it should be set in DC-mode or more preferably plugged into a pump header. The fans should be joined together with a y-cable and plugged into the CPU Fan 1-header with the PWM-control enabled so that they can follow the temperature of the CPU, but it's hard to say where/how/if they are actually connected since there doesn't seem to be other RPM values in the bios. If you can take a well lit picture of the insides of the computer that shows the whole motherboard that might help solve the mystery.
I don't suppose these help at all do they?
Blue light and black components isn't really the best combination, but from what I can make out I'm like 99% sure the cable that's looped around the tubes is for the pump and it should definately be run in DC-mode and using it long term in PWM-mode is not good for it. It seems the pc doesn't use the fans that normally come with the cooler and the ones they use are probably connected to a controller of their own that takes care of the leds and powering them, so if the fans are spinning and keep the components cool, that's all in order. If everything is okay when the pump is in DC-mode, leave it like that.
I was going to make a new thread about this but rather just post it here since it's PC related.
I use my 4KTV and primarily have a couch PC setup. I recently picked up a Logitech K400+ as a replacement for a Logitech K520.
Not a big fan of touchpads but the media keyboard built in shortcuts and hotkeys I find use for. I need a replacement mouse. I'd prefer a relatively high quality mouse with good battery life and suitable for gaming. Since I'm a couch PC user, I'd prefer wireless.
Looked a reviews online for wireless mice but I'd want to hear PC Era's suggestions
I looked at stuff like Logitech G Pro and Razor Viper Ultimate and they are too rich for my blood, besides I don't need that many buttons. I'm not a competitive or eSports gamer. I'll play Doom Eternal or Path of Exile so while a gaming mouse may be nice, I don't necessarily need one, but I'd prefer quality and performance over aesthetics.
The Steelseries would have been nice but it's only wireless version is over $100 which is too much. I'd like to stick to a budget of $50 if possible. Anything has to be better than the Logitech M310 that came with my old keyboard.
I use my 4KTV and primarily have a couch PC setup. I recently picked up a Logitech K400+ as a replacement for a Logitech K520.
Not a big fan of touchpads but the media keyboard built in shortcuts and hotkeys I find use for. I need a replacement mouse. I'd prefer a relatively high quality mouse with good battery life and suitable for gaming. Since I'm a couch PC user, I'd prefer wireless.
Looked a reviews online for wireless mice but I'd want to hear PC Era's suggestions
I looked at stuff like Logitech G Pro and Razor Viper Ultimate and they are too rich for my blood, besides I don't need that many buttons. I'm not a competitive or eSports gamer. I'll play Doom Eternal or Path of Exile so while a gaming mouse may be nice, I don't necessarily need one, but I'd prefer quality and performance over aesthetics.
The Steelseries would have been nice but it's only wireless version is over $100 which is too much. I'd like to stick to a budget of $50 if possible. Anything has to be better than the Logitech M310 that came with my old keyboard.
It's the pump. There is always going to be some amount of pump noise in any water-cooled setup, but from the video yours sounds like it either has air bubbles or is a faulty unit. If air bubbles, they may work themselves out naturally over time or you may have to do some fuckery like running with the radiator upside down for a while. If it's a faulty unit, you need to just replace it.
I'll be honest, this is the problem with buying pre-built machines. PC components sometimes require maintenance or fail, and it's a pain in the ass to ship a full system back and forth. You may not want to hear this, but your path of least resistance is to watch some YouTube videos and learn how to do this yourself. Take CyberPower up on their offer for the new AiO and swap it out. It'll be less headache for you in the long run.
Logitech Mx series - I have the anywhere 2 so can also sync to my iPad via Bluetooth but also has the usual micro receiver.
Yeah, I just kickstarted the whole returns process and, at the last minute, decided to keep the PC and just ask for a replacement pump.
no? Not intentionally anyway :p
1tb data is about £100 so it's quite a premium for m2. At that point it gets me wondering to maybe stretch to 2tb data (name would be around £300 I think for 2tb). although I need to check if I even have a spare sata port as I have 4 in use already
I got my new CPU, mobo and RAM and I started putting it together. I got the Ryzen 7 3700x. Is the stock cooler fine if I don't intend on OCing that much? I got a noctua but if I can not use it I might send it back. Looking for some expert opinions.
It's a fine cooler, its just annoying af. The fans ramp up with the CPU, and can cause some really annoying sound. I replaced mine with a Dark Rock Pro 4.
<-----Suspicious. -.-
But yeah if you have free SATA ports just get a larger capacity SSD.
Doubling the available space will be well worth it where as the speed wont be noticeable.
Stock cooler will work just fine.
It can get noisey when it ramps up, so if you care about that you might as well use the Noctua.
If not sending it back and using the money for a component that really matters would make a lot of sense.
What you can try in the meantime is raising the front of the case a bit. With your radiator setup I could imagine that the air will then slowly accumulate like so (radiator intersection if viewed from the side panel):
Excuse the very rough drawing, lol! Of course the actual body of the radiator doesn't look anything like that inside but you get the gist.
And then maybe, if the air actually gathers there and you put the case gently in normal position it at least remains entirely at the top of the radiator and just barely doesn't get circulated through the tubes that sit nearby.
Been looking to upgrade my mouse and I've always used standard wireless logitech mice because they're cheap. Should I be looking at a wired mouse though? Or even premium brands like corsair, rosewell, etc?
What you can try in the meantime is raising the front of the case a bit. With your radiator setup I could imagine that the air will then slowly accumulate like so (radiator intersection if viewed from the side panel):
Excuse the very rough drawing, lol! Of course the actual body of the radiator doesn't look anything like that inside but you get the gist.
And then maybe, if the air actually gathers there and you put the case gently in normal position it at least remains entirely at the top of the radiator and just barely doesn't get circulated through the tubes that sit nearby.
Thank you! And what rough drawing? I see only PERFECT ART.
The best wireless gaming mouses today could very well be Logitech's. So you can also find some $60 options like their G305 that use the really high quality sensors like the ones they put on their premium $150 mice.
I don't think I'm gonna go over $100 for a mouse, but this is good to know! Are wired mouses considered superior at all, or is there anything that would make them better than a wireless?
Is it possible to change which monitor is the main monitor in the Asus BIOS? I have my monitor set to primary in Windows and Nvidia, but my TV is the one that shows the bios and I can't find a setting in there to change it. Asus TUF x570.
I tried unplugging the TV and moving ports (DP) but all that did was trigger the white VGA LED on the Mobo to stay on untill the tv was plugged back in lol.
I tried unplugging the TV and moving ports (DP) but all that did was trigger the white VGA LED on the Mobo to stay on untill the tv was plugged back in lol.
Good wireless nowadays are as responsive, but because the have batteries inside they are in average heavier, which is why some people prefer wired mice, other than not having to recharge them or switch batteries.
Hmm try disabling ASUS's version of Legacy BIOS Emulation if it isn't already.
The higher end Logitech mice perform the same as wired mice. I have the Logitech g502, best mouse I've used. Mouse shopping is tough, it's not just the specs, but also comfort. I struggled for a while to find a mouse that fit my hand comfortably.
Searching online without much luck. Weird quirk lol.
I'll check it out, see if I can find it.
How do we see PC parts doing during this pandemic? I am waiting on a refund from Cyberpower before buying the components for my build. I have my microcenter cart full of everything, but every couple days when I check it, one of the components is sold out (one PSU, and two video cards now) I have the money to pull the trigger now before more stuff sells out, but I kind of wanted to make sure the cyberpower refund goes smoothly first.
Been itching to upgrade for a bit. One of the things I've read a few times is that people are buying the Ryzen 5 3600 and a good x570 board. Is it extremely likely that the x570s are going to work with the new Ryzen series later this year? How would I know which motherboard would be a safe bet?
Ryzen 4000 is AM4.
100% of the X570 motherboards from any reputable brand will work with it.
If you get some off brand motherboard from a company that has never released a BIOS update you might be in trouble.
THe Aorus boards get BIOS updates in a super timely manner, while I fully believe every name brand manufacturer will have Ryzen 4000 BIOS out sooner rather than later, if i was a betting man I would bet on them being first to update.
I'm going a bit off topic with this cross post from the display thread because a lot of the folks in here I know can weigh in. Apologies. I'll be super brief.
Does anyone know what the default Nvidia Control panel DSR (dynamic screen resolution) setting is? Just noticed mine is at 2.0 after investigating a loss of performance in many games and was wondering if this is the culprit. Any feedback is welcome. Thanks all.
Does anyone know what the default Nvidia Control panel DSR (dynamic screen resolution) setting is? Just noticed mine is at 2.0 after investigating a loss of performance in many games and was wondering if this is the culprit. Any feedback is welcome. Thanks all.
DSR values depend on your native resolution.
For instance, to unlock downsampling from 4K the value would be 2.25 if your screen is 1440p, or 4 if your screen is 1080p
But these do not change the resolution on their own. They only open the options to choose bigger resolutions than your screen in the resolution tab inside the control panel, and inside the game options. I have 1.75, 2.25, 3, and 4 selected in the control panel, but I do not use them while gaming, just leave them unlocked in case I need to take a really big screenshot.