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Crazymoogle

Game Developer
Verified
Oct 25, 2017
2,879
Asia
Oct 29, 2017
13,478
Corsair: general rep
Seasonic: big warranties
EVGA: very well respected products in general
There is a Tier List on LTT that I also consider to be pretty much accurate now. But the real tl;dr here is that if you buy a 80+ gold PSU it's hard to get a dud. The big names are all good.

I think Superflower has also started to sell now more widely in the west including the US. IIRC they are the OEM who manufactures the top EVGA PSUs.

Another one is beQuiet!, who makes their own (at least the high end) PSUs as far as I know.
 

Dogo Mojo

Member
Oct 27, 2017
2,157
Purchased two separate keys for Windows on eBay....the first had apprently already been activated and the second is telling me it's not a valid key....🙄

why does MS have to make windows so expensive?
 

trailmix16

Member
Oct 26, 2017
460
If I want to go from a 2700x to a 3700x, Do I need to keep the 2700x cpu and use it to flash the new mobo? I have a ASRock Fatal1ty B450 Gaming-ITX

`Some AMD B450 chipset motherboards may need a BIOS update prior to using Matisse CPUs. Upgrading the BIOS may require a different CPU that is supported by older BIOS revisions.`
 

LegendX48

Member
Oct 25, 2017
2,072
Honestly if you can wait I would wait for the new Nvidia cards coming this year to be honest. Unless you really need something new right away dumping money into the current cards seems kind of a waste.
I'm all right with waiting but the temptation is there lol if it can run Half-Life: Alyx without issue it'll make waiting much easier
 
Oct 29, 2017
13,478
If I want to go from a 2700x to a 3700x, Do I need to keep the 2700x cpu and use it to flash the new mobo? I have a ASRock Fatal1ty B450 Gaming-ITX
You can do it while you still use the 2700X. You need to update the BIOS to a recent enough version that supports the 3000 series. After your Mobo is updated you won't need the 2700X.

Every B450 sold before Ryzen 3000 launched needs an update, only new ones from the months since launch may come updated out of the box.
 

trailmix16

Member
Oct 26, 2017
460
Ah ok, that makes sense, thanks. Is it normally a good idea to keep the BIOS up to date, or only in certain instances (like upgrading the cpu)?
 

ABeezy1388

Member
Apr 5, 2018
677
Purchased two separate keys for Windows on eBay....the first had apprently already been activated and the second is telling me it's not a valid key....🙄

why does MS have to make windows so expensive?

same happened to me. Contacted demanded a refund or a new key. They gave me the run around I said I'll use eBay protection if I don't get a new key please send me a valid key, they gave me a second one and worked like a charm!
 

macindc

Member
Oct 27, 2017
200
same happened to me. Contacted demanded a refund or a new key. They gave me the run around I said I'll use eBay protection if I don't get a new key please send me a valid key, they gave me a second one and worked like a charm!

eBay wouldn't help you so you got lucky. Last I checked eBay buyer protection only applies to physical goods, not digital codes.

Ah ok, that makes sense, thanks. Is it normally a good idea to keep the BIOS up to date, or only in certain instances (like upgrading the cpu)?
Typically it's only considered a good idea to upgrade if there's something added in the new version that you need (faster boot times, security updates, etc.) or if you're adding hardware that a newer revision is compatible with (CPU, RAM, etc.)
 

darkslayer101

Member
Oct 25, 2017
1,178
So with gaming drought coming to an end and the summer starting here in US, my idle temps for my cpu is around 42-45C as opposed to its 35-38C.


To top it off playing Ori made aio cooler revving like a race car, which makes me conclude that my cpu cooling isn't the best.

Any suggestions to face the summer?

I'm thinking of replacing thermal paste, but some folks recommend not doing it for aio cooler?
Also gonna clean the pc since its been an year since I cleaned it up.
 

myzhi

Member
Oct 27, 2017
1,650
So with gaming drought coming to an end and the summer starting here in US, my idle temps for my cpu is around 42-45C as opposed to its 35-38C.


To top it off playing Ori made aio cooler revving like a race car, which makes me conclude that my cpu cooling isn't the best.

Any suggestions to face the summer?

I'm thinking of replacing thermal paste, but some folks recommend not doing it for aio cooler?
Also gonna clean the pc since its been an year since I cleaned it up.
Idle temps only good to tell if you install the cooler correctly. Load temps are what you should be worrying about. If fan noise is bothering you, switch for quieter fans and/or add more case fans for better airflow.
 

Mindfreak191

Member
Dec 2, 2017
4,764
Got my 2070 Super today which thus concludes my "this was supposed to be in time for the initial release date of Cyberpunk 2077 PC build but now it's just in time for HL:A" build. Coming from a laptop 1060 the difference is staggering, even VR games are running way better at a much crisper picture, I was gonna go with the 2080 Super, but since I eventually wanna jump in the 3000 series I didn't want to spend too much. Feels good to be back to "all ultra 60fps" settings :D
 

Dogo Mojo

Member
Oct 27, 2017
2,157
So I got a replacement key that seems to work (so far). I got my audio working, and now I want to run a benchmark to test, any suggestions on a good program to try?
 

sackboy97

Member
Oct 26, 2017
3,606
Italy
I need some help with troubleshooting a weird issue that popped up recently. Basically, whenever I shut down my PC, Windows seems to close regularly, but the fans keep spinning (indefinitely, it looks like). From reading around online, it seems to be related to the mobo. I had a look in the BIOS yesterday, but I didn't notice anything suspicious in the "power" tab. Does anyone know off-hand if there's a specific setting I should be looking for?

Alternatively, I have read that resetting the CMOS or updating the BIOS might also help, so I guess those would be the next steps.

EDIT: Actually, looking at the event viewer, I found this:
The process C:\Windows\System32\RuntimeBroker.exe (PC) has initiated the power off of computer PC on behalf of user PC\user for the following reason: Altro (non pianificato)
User-mode process attempted to change the system state by calling SetSuspendState or SetSystemPowerState APIs.
Then there's this:
The system is entering sleep.

Sleep Reason: Application API
Followed by
The system has resumed from sleep.

As far as I know I haven't set any sleep-related settings, does anyone know what could be the cause?
 
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darkslayer101

Member
Oct 25, 2017
1,178
Idle temps only good to tell if you install the cooler correctly. Load temps are what you should be worrying about. If fan noise is bothering you, switch for quieter fans and/or add more case fans for better airflow.
Load temps are also concerning. Playing the new Ori, temps are clocking at 75-80C. Then again 6 months ago when I played AC Odyssey, temps were roughly same (75-85C).
Its not much the fans sounds that bother me since I wear earbuds, but If I have some background stuff running the cooler/fan just revs and its sorta unsettling.
I guess it is indeed the stock fans that came with the H100i V2 that makes the sound.
Any recommendations for fan replacement? Should I replace only the two cooler fans, or total 4 fans in my tower? build this tower 3yrs ago

Edit: Just noticed that my top exhaust fan is not spinning at all in idle. Maybe it spins on gaming but how do I test whether the fan does spin?
Edit#2: Looks like I just spun it myself and the fan caught on. I'm maybe that fan is plugged into the header and not to the mobo, or dust build up etc...
either way I would like to know a good way to test out fans, isn't it in the bios somewhere?
 
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Skyfireblaze

Member
Oct 25, 2017
11,257
I'm all right with waiting but the temptation is there lol if it can run Half-Life: Alyx without issue it'll make waiting much easier

Hmm that's hard to tell but historically Valve's games were always pretty scalable and well optimized so I would hope and assume the same will apply to Alyx too, especially with it being a VR title.
 

JCH!

Avenger
Oct 25, 2017
1,169
Tenerife
Seeing that it's very possible I'll be working for home for a while now, I need to upgrade my setup.

What's the best monitor for around $1000?
Looking for high refresh rate + G-Sync, min 1440p.

Currently running an Acer Predator XB271HU.
 

F34R

Member
Oct 27, 2017
11,989
Seeing that it's very possible I'll be working for home for a while now, I need to upgrade my setup.

What's the best monitor for around $1000?
Looking for high refresh rate + G-Sync, min 1440p.

Currently running an Acer Predator XB271HU.
Why do you need to upgrade that awesome monitor?
 

F34R

Member
Oct 27, 2017
11,989
I just want another so I can match my dual monitor office setup.
I considered just getting another XB271HU but I don't know if there's something better out there atm as I fell out of the loop after I bought that one.
Ahh, understood. I'd just grab another one in that case.
 

jkh13

Member
Oct 27, 2017
279
I'm looking to play HL:Alyx but my gaming PC is pretty old (2017). Looking for a quick update without completely breaking the bank.

- RAM: Already have 16GB, should be fine?
- GPU: 970GTX - understand I need an upgrade here, looking at the AMD 5700 or 5700XT, is this recommended? any downsides?
- CPU: Core i5-4690K - Would this be adequate? Any benefits in upgrading and to what?
 

Skyfireblaze

Member
Oct 25, 2017
11,257
In your opinions and experiences, what are the most reliable and trustworthy PSU brands today?
I'm a huge fan of be quiet!, but they can be very expensive outside of Europe.
About 6 of my friends are using them, some for years already, and no problems at all.

As a European I can vouch for beQuiet! too, the first PSU I bought from them for my own builds lasted me for almost 10 years through various different systems before it finally bit the dust.

I'm looking to play HL:Alyx but my gaming PC is pretty old (2017). Looking for a quick update without completely breaking the bank.

- RAM: Already have 16GB, should be fine?
- GPU: 970GTX - understand I need an upgrade here, looking at the AMD 5700 or 5700XT, is this recommended? any downsides?
- CPU: Core i5-4690K - Would this be adequate? Any benefits in upgrading and to what?

I can't say much about the AMD GPUs but for the CPU grab a AMD Ryzen 3600 or 3700 depending on the budget, you can't go wrong with these as your current CPU is very old and lacks cores and threads. 16gb RAM is fine yeah.
 

LegendX48

Member
Oct 25, 2017
2,072
If they're rocking a 4690k I'd assume they have ddr3 ram currently and they'd need to get DDR4 ram if upgrading to something recent.
 

myzhi

Member
Oct 27, 2017
1,650
Load temps are also concerning. Playing the new Ori, temps are clocking at 75-80C. Then again 6 months ago when I played AC Odyssey, temps were roughly same (75-85C).
Its not much the fans sounds that bother me since I wear earbuds, but If I have some background stuff running the cooler/fan just revs and its sorta unsettling.
I guess it is indeed the stock fans that came with the H100i V2 that makes the sound.
Any recommendations for fan replacement? Should I replace only the two cooler fans, or total 4 fans in my tower? build this tower 3yrs ago

Edit: Just noticed that my top exhaust fan is not spinning at all in idle. Maybe it spins on gaming but how do I test whether the fan does spin?
Edit#2: Looks like I just spun it myself and the fan caught on. I'm maybe that fan is plugged into the header and not to the mobo, or dust build up etc...
either way I would like to know a good way to test out fans, isn't it in the bios somewhere?
If you want to replace, Noctua fans are usually the best for performance / noise ratio. I would start with the 2 cooler fans first then case fans if you are still not satisfy. AIO fans should be plugged into the cable coming out from the AIO. To ramp up the fans, it might be possible to go into bios > monitoring page > increase fan to higher performance, Corsair software > select higher performance and/or open your case, just run cpu intensive software and look at the fans.
 

jkh13

Member
Oct 27, 2017
279
If they're rocking a 4690k I'd assume they have ddr3 ram currently and they'd need to get DDR4 ram if upgrading to something recent.

Would the 4690k likely be a bottleneck for HL:A if I get a 5700XT? Would it likely still run at a sensible framerate with high-ish settings? Upgrading ram + mobo + processor is starting to sound pretty expensive... Are there any sensible CPU upgrades with the same socket?
 

panama chief

Member
Oct 27, 2017
4,047
Hi. What determines which fans you should get for your case? I'm looking at Noctua 140mm, but don't know if I should get 3 or 4 pin. I'm guessing it's based on the PSU?
 

Fair Trial

Member
Jan 1, 2018
248
A bit OCD question, bear with me.
I have an old Samsung laptop (Q530 model), which still perform perfectly fine for basic tasks (i3 350m and nvidia 510m).
With Microsoft ceasing security support for Windows 7 i needed to update the OS to windows 10.
The issue was that this line of Samsung laptops has an internal Broadcom wi-fi and bluetooth mini PCI-E module incompatible with windows 10 because of the BIOS (it causes a rebooting loop).
After some online research, I have find out that the only solution was physically removing the internal mini wi-fi module, perform the update and then installing a different brand one.
I didn't have time to buy a new internal wi-fi module, so I simply removed the old one by opening the laptop lid, unplugging the two antenna wires and unscrewing the mini PCI-E card.
Now I'm using an external usb dongle wi-fi adapter for internet connection: the laptop updated perfectly to windows 10 and now works with no issues.
My question is: is there any possible health risk/concern related to using the laptop without the native internal wi-fi module installed? I'm referring to possible unwanted radio emissions from the laptop operating with the antenna wires unplugged to a module.
To my knowledge, after removing the mini wi-fi module, the antenna wires are simple wires that have no way of emitting radio frequencies, but I want to be sure I'm not missing something.
Thanks in advance for the help.
 

oakenhild

Member
Oct 27, 2017
1,869
My x570 Aorus Master died this morning.

Just wouldn't do anything when trying to turn it on (turned it off normally last night), no beeps, leds or anything. Thought it was the PSU (need to return that new one now...). Turns out it was the motherboard. Hopefully Gigabyte has a decent RMA process, and I can sell the refurbished one on eBay (had to buy a matching one today, so I could be up and running).
 

I Don't Like

Member
Dec 11, 2017
14,896
Now I'm using an external usb dongle wi-fi adapter for internet connection: the laptop updated perfectly to windows 10 and now works with no issues.
My question is: is there any possible health risk/concern related to using the laptop without the native internal wi-fi module installed? I'm referring to possible unwanted radio emissions from the laptop operating with the antenna wires unplugged to a module.

Uh, I think you'll be fine, lol.

- GPU: 970GTX - understand I need an upgrade here, looking at the AMD 5700 or 5700XT, is this recommended? any downsides?

Apparent driver issues.
 

LegendX48

Member
Oct 25, 2017
2,072
Would the 4690k likely be a bottleneck for HL:A if I get a 5700XT? Would it likely still run at a sensible framerate with high-ish settings? Upgrading ram + mobo + processor is starting to sound pretty expensive... Are there any sensible CPU upgrades with the same socket?
hard to say but you may run into both gpu and cpu bottlenecks (depending on the game of course), plus, I would steer clear of AMD GPUs right now as they're still plagued with driver issues. As for staying with the same mobo, I think you're limited to just grabbing the i7 4790K which would at least give you 8 threads but wouldn't be the best use of funds. If you were to upgrade your mobo/cpu/ram, the AMD Ryzen 5 3600 cpu is great and cheap, and you can get 16gb of ram and a good b450 mobo for cheap as well. Assuming you're in the US these could get you started: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/rYR8WD

If you just want to upgrade your gpu for now I'd advise the 2060 super or 2070 super
 

ss_lemonade

Member
Oct 27, 2017
6,648
Would the 4690k likely be a bottleneck for HL:A if I get a 5700XT? Would it likely still run at a sensible framerate with high-ish settings? Upgrading ram + mobo + processor is starting to sound pretty expensive... Are there any sensible CPU upgrades with the same socket?
I imagine that CPU to maybe be a problem for VR. I used to have a 3570k oc'ed to 4.6ghz, which isn't as good but both are 4c/4t CPUs and I remember it having issues with certain games on my Vive (mainly stuttering issues that would make me nauseous). This was paired with a 1080 Ti.

I did eventually upgrade to a 3700x, which is a big change (motherboard, ram, cpu and cooler) but it seems to have fixed any VR performance problems I was having before.
 
Oct 25, 2017
1,809
I've finished my build recently, only two questions.

I had a problem installing Windows. After creating the partition as soon as the install started, I got the following error code:
Windows Cannot Install Required Files 0x8007025D

I've recreated the USB Stick, but got the same error again rebooted a few times and disabled XMP.
I think I got the error again, but when I just retried it it suddenly worked.

Can this have to do with XMP? Or should I check my nvme?
I'm currently running memtest, not sure if thats already overkill.
Is there a way to check my nvme drive?

What's the best way to use the D and E drives of my old PC in my new one?
Can I just remove them and put them into the new one or will there be permission issues?
I think I had something like this a long time ago, I don't know if that's still a problem.
On these drives are my SteamApps and some Video and Screenshots.
I also need to transfer the contents of my user directory.
 

m_shortpants

Member
Oct 25, 2017
11,202
Just finished my build. Pic coming soon.

Only thing that is funky is my X62 Kraken. NZXT cam does not want to work with it. It's detected, but the software doesn't let me change anything. So frustrating.
 

SpoonyBob

Member
Oct 27, 2017
2,487
Arkansas
Hate jumping in just to ask for some troubleshooting help but...

Just recently put together a PC for my brother and I'm not able to see one of the two M.2 Drives in the bios. I was able to install windows onto one of them just fine, but the second isn't even showing up in bios.

Drives in question - https://www.adorama.com/ctc1000p1ssd.html?CTC1000P1SSD_qty=2

Motherboard - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07STNZF9L?tag=pcpapi-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1

Updated to the most recent bios.

I'm not at all the most tech savvy person, but I put together almost exactly the same build and had no issues a few months ago. The only differences were a different M.2 drive ( two of these ).
 

Crazymoogle

Game Developer
Verified
Oct 25, 2017
2,879
Asia
To my knowledge, after removing the mini wi-fi module, the antenna wires are simple wires that have no way of emitting radio frequencies, but I want to be sure I'm not missing something.

Generally speaking Laptops use M.2 style wifi modules which don't have integrated antennas and thus require using an antenna (integrated into the case) to function. Even if they did have integrated antennas, most laptop chassis act as faraday cages of sorts anyways which would kill most of the signal.

This is also why desktop motherboards with bluetooth/wifi modules also require the use of an external antenna; while Bluetooth is usually pretty good about not needing a big router-style antenna, the signal needs to escape the case somehow.

Just recently put together a PC for my brother and I'm not able to see one of the two M.2 Drives in the bios. I was able to install windows onto one of them just fine, but the second isn't even showing up in bios.

So they are both 1TB Crucial NVMe M.2's?
  1. Try re-seating the (not working) drive and see if shows up in UEFI
  2. Try pulling the (working) drive and see if the (not working) drive shows up in UEFI by itself
  3. Try pulling the (working) drive, move the bad drive to the other slot, and see if it shows up in UEFI
Also, you've probably done this but make sure to check the boot order list and not just UEFI easy mode, to see if the device is there...
 

SpoonyBob

Member
Oct 27, 2017
2,487
Arkansas
So they are both 1TB Crucial NVMe M.2's?
  1. Try re-seating the (not working) drive and see if shows up in UEFI
  2. Try pulling the (working) drive and see if the (not working) drive shows up in UEFI by itself
  3. Try pulling the (working) drive, move the bad drive to the other slot, and see if it shows up in UEFI
Also, you've probably done this but make sure to check the boot order list and not just UEFI easy mode, to see if the device is there...

Aye, they're both the 1TB crucial NVMe M.2.

I'll run through all three of these tomorrow. Much appreciated.

The drive showed up after re-seating it. I feel like a moron, but appreciate the reminder. Thanks.
 
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Hebo

Member
Mar 15, 2019
10
Would love to get some eyes on this build; as I haven't built a PC in 8+ years and know nothing about the state of hardware these days. This PC is only going to be used for gaming at 1920x1200. I'm still an old fart with a 60hz monitor, but I might upgrade in the near future if my video card can handle it. Some questions I have:

  1. If I'm not overclocking, do I need any extra fans? Is there a downside to using the stock CPU cooler over the one I've chosen?
  2. PCPartPicker gives me a warning: "The Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI) ATX AM4 Motherboard has an additional 4-pin ATX power connector but the Corsair CXM 550 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply does not." Does this matter?
Please help me not waste all my money!

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($289.99 @ B&H)
CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 50.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($86.46 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI) ATX AM4 Motherboard ($184.99 @ Best Buy)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 860 QVO 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Storage: Intel 660p Series 1.02 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($122.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2060 SUPER 8 GB WINDFORCE OC Video Card ($399.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($98.99 @ Walmart)
Power Supply: Corsair CXM 550 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($69.33 @ Amazon)
Total: $1322.73
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-03-13 00:05 EDT-0400
 

Crazymoogle

Game Developer
Verified
Oct 25, 2017
2,879
Asia
Would love to get some eyes on this build; as I haven't built a PC in 8+ years and know nothing about the state of hardware these days. This PC is only going to be used for gaming at 1920x1200. I'm still an old fart with a 60hz monitor, but I might upgrade in the near future if my video card can handle it. Some questions I have:

  1. If I'm not overclocking, do I need any extra fans? Is there a downside to using the stock CPU cooler over the one I've chosen?
  2. PCPartPicker gives me a warning: "The Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI) ATX AM4 Motherboard has an additional 4-pin ATX power connector but the Corsair CXM 550 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply does not." Does this matter?
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($289.99 @ B&H)
CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 50.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($86.46 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI) ATX AM4 Motherboard ($184.99 @ Best Buy)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 860 QVO 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Storage: Intel 660p Series 1.02 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($122.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2060 SUPER 8 GB WINDFORCE OC Video Card ($399.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($98.99 @ Walmart)
Power Supply: Corsair CXM 550 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($69.33 @ Amazon)

  • I have this motherboard. The PSU warning is simply that you won't have the extra 4pin for LN2 overclocking. Pretty sure you are not making a Liquid Nitrogen build nor are you overloading the power requirements with components, so you're fine. (I also don't use the extra 4pin)
  • I use the Dark Rock Slim with the 3600, I think you could easily get away with the Dark Rock 4 instead of the Pro, but nothing wrong with extra cooling. In general I think you are better off with a DR than the Ryzen Wraith cooler, I mean in my experience the DR Slim is dead silent thanks to the BQ Silent Wings fans. The Wraith is smaller but will inevitably run a bit hotter and potentially noisier.
  • The only thing I'm not 100% on is if the RAM will fit, but worst case you have to mount the fan a bit higher up on the heatsink. Since you've only got two sticks at least you get slightly more clearance from the heatsink (generally with AMD you populate the 2-4 slots away from the cooler, not 1-3)
  • I think the 660p is kind of a joke, would much rather have ADATA SX8200 Pro or even addlink S70. Maybe the 660p is fine these days but I remember it getting roasted on release.
  • Just a quick piece of advice: if you're not going to use a 3.5" drive I would strongly consider removing the drivecage from inside the Meshify C (you'll see how to do this in the manual) and mounting the 2.5" drive to the back of the motherboard tray instead. It will clear a ton of room for your PSU cable management. The drive sleds are nice but yeah...not small.
 
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