Quoting and replying to your post a second time. Wow, its lagging bad right now. So strange and annoying.
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The PC Builders Thread ("I Need a New PC") v2
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Quoting and replying to your post a second time. Wow, its lagging bad right now. So strange and annoying.
Those are "AMD teraflops" which are measured differently, and inflated. That's about 10tf from Nvidia. So equivalent to like a GTX 1080 or an AMD 5700. Think $300 graphics card. That's about what we'll be getting in the new consoles. Same as I calculated it would be about 9 months ago when the first Wired article on the PS5 was published.
The GPU will be about what is currently being sold for MSRP $300, but less cost after bulk wholesale pricing and some cutdown and modernization, of the ~$450 total budget of the console. So the GPU component will probably cost them $250/unit or less. It can't really afford to be more than that when you add up the cost of the other components including a ~$150 at-best CPU.
The diff in efficiency is not more like. A 5700 xt is superior a 2070 in perf.
How you are getting a 5700 with 12 tflops if is rdna2 and 5700 is rdna1?
Xsx will perform like a rtx 2080 that probably will be a 3060 perf. on new series.
You're not getting a $600 GPU in your new $450 console dude.
Mark Cerny has also promised "SSDs faster than anything that is currently on the PC market" too you know.
so its becoming so frustrating. My keyboard now as well as the mouse are laggy and unresponsive at times. I have no idea why. But typing registers onky a few clicks then misses some. Mouse doesn't register every mouse click, then it's fine and works for a minute then repeat. It's super weird and makes the computer a pain to use. Anyone have any suggestions or ideas what could be causing this. Never had this issue before
A 5700 level GPU on a closed platform with a pci 4.0 SSD with likely to be a down-clocked 3700 cpu is still really good.
That's what I'm expecting on PS5 with smaller gains on XBX perhaps due to robust cooling and maybe a faster GPU.
And excited for both!
Expecting a 2080 level GPU with a current modern 8c/16t for under $500 is not realistic.
Wireless mouse? If so then tbh these are unfortunately issues that are hard to fix. Sometimes Bluetooth or RF interference, sometimes drivers, dead batteries etc.
upHere ARGB (6 pack): ~41 USD or around $6/fan
A top class TT or Corsair is ~25-35/fan.
The cheapo models usually rely on motherboard software for customization, but many of them have controllers (or remotes) with ~100 preset patterns which you can slowly change through like TV channels, so its actually pretty handy if you don't feel like becoming a temporary graphic artist to figure out a scheme. Sure, the top class fans look nicer, but nothing wrong with winning by numbers either and just loading up on fans and RGB strips.
EDIT: 140mm might be a bit harder to source but should still be something out there. I went 140mm TT but mainly because I only wanted a few and I wanted them to be my front and top intakes...
Yes and keyboard.... but the thing is I use this mouse on my work laptop (have used it for 5 or so years across multiple work laptops), my old pc before building this new one etc...never EVER had issues with the mouse or keyboard on any device but this new build. I updated drivers, did all the basic trouble shooting. Makes no sense :(
My old pc is literally right next to this new one and it has no issues with this mouse after months and months of use so I dont think its interference, batteries, etc. Both the mouse and keyboard use wireless USB dongles, I wonder if bluetooth may be better?
I have no idea if this is it but I feel like my CPU fan (only one i got right now besides GPU) does not run at a consistent speed... I hear it constantly speed up and slow down, and I feel as if this may be attributing to the lag.... I know its weird but when the fan speeds up the lag seems to kick in. When the fan slows back down things seem to work.
I play on pc but the gpu is equivalent to a Rtx 2080. Df said on their video. Rtx 2080 is a gpu with 2 years old. Soon it will be a 349-399 gpu power.
Man the console has 12 tflops. 12 tflops on rdna arch will be equivalent to a Rtx 2080.
5700 xt is 9.75 tflops and perform in line (sometimes better) with a Rtx 2070.
Xsx gpu is 20% stronger than a 5700xt so something between 2080-2080S
Don't get me started on dongles. I have had ZERO luck with anything dongle related. Always some nonsense with dongles, from random cuts to signal, to mind of its own action. Go bluetooth my friend. Preferably one that uses your motherboard (and if not, get a bluetooth PCI card).
Intel has had some issues with cooling for a while so yeah it's probably normal. If you're adventurous you could get a delid kit and delid it and reapply thermal paste, even go with a liquid metal. I did it with my 7700k and it's easy as hell.
but it doesn't really even matter because your daily use isn't running stress tests so I wouldn't worry about it.
thanks guys I think I'm going to pick this up this weekend. Been needing a new tower for awhile now
I tested it for an hour on 1.28v and it was stable so I'm just going to stick with that lol, anything lower gave me a failure. But yeah your right I game at 4k anyways. Now onto GPU overclocking! :D
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Absolutely wait. Should be only a six month wait at worst. 2080 ti is very overpriced.
At this point I would wait unless you need 1 asap. 3 series is supposed to be a big leap going to 7nnm.
2080Ti is overpriced especially this late in the game. I would wait to see what the 3000 series looks like and the prices.
If Prime95 is unstable, you need to back off the MHz or up the voltage or adjust something and try again until it is stable. It means the overclock is not successful at these settings, and crashes will happen elsewhere too. Success is when nothing crashes unexpectedly or reports errors.
We mentioned the constant speeding up and down the other day - it is a must to enable fan smoothing in the bios. These new Ryzens boost from 2GHz to ~4.6GHz in a millisecond to attend a background process, then back down, then back up again. This causes heat to rise a few degrees, and in default settings this means the fan speed goes up and down tracking CPU temp closely. If you set fan smoothing to like 10 seconds or something, no harm will come of it but these annoying up/down noises will be eliminated.
Regarding the KB/Mouse: Try bluetooth if you can, of course. Or even just try re-pairing many a few times. I didn't realize it was wireless before, now knowing that it is almost certain to be interference or signal degradation of some sort. The position of the receiver dongles will be important too. A Loque Ghost S1 is basically a grounded Faraday cage, so if it's in the direct path of wireless signals it's going to be an obstacle. Do you have a USB extension cord? Try using that to position the dongle off to the side.
Nevertheless, it could be related to CPU usage, albeit that is unlikely. Bring up task manager and see if you can notice any certain program hogging CPU at moment of lag. Perhaps an overzealous antivirus scan or something? This used to happen back in the day, but I don't remember it since moving to USB and multicore CPUs tbh. If you have wired KB+Mouse to use as a test, you can quickly determine if it happens with those too or not.
With the caveat that crashing after running Prime95 for hours doesn't mean you'll crash doing what you normally do on your PC. Too many people jump into stress tests as if their daily use is running a chip with cores at load for hours on end. For some it may actually be but I'm talking about people for whom it is not.
Test by using your machine normally.
My 7700k is at 5Ghz (custom loop). Will it survive a prolonged Prime95 run? I don't know and I don't give a shit but I know playing various games on a Friday night from like 7pm to 1am with an occasional break browsing or whatever in between I have no issues, so that's all that matters.
2080 Ti owner here, and no way. Ampere is expected to be a huge jump. IMO if you need something to hold you over, get like a EVGA 2060 KO and save your money for the 3080 Ti whenever that comes around.
How often and how do you guys clean your pcs? I've used mine for about two months (bought it two months ago) and I'm worried that I'm dropping the ball by not cleaning it
Having dust filters is a literal game changer when it comes to this stuff. Over the two years I've had my current pc, I've cleaned INSIDE of it once. Other than that I only clean my dust filters every maybe 3-4 months
That is a terrible advice and nobody should follow it.
If your system is unstable, under any load, you shouldn't stay on those OC settings. The +0.1Ghz is not worth it. The gap between stable gaming OC and unstable stress test OC is never large, it will be an extra 0.1Ghz or +0.02V.
Are you suggesting I buy them? Idk what they are. How they work. Can you illuminate me
Well idk if it was "unstable" rather it just jack up my temps too high and it shut down. Everywhere I'm reading online is telling me to avoid benching with prime95 because it jacks up the temps to insane levels that other stress tests don't.
I used aida64 for an hour and everything was stable at 1.28v.
I used aida64 for an hour and everything was stable at 1.28v.
I'm not talking about persisting an OC that isn't stable. My point is about relying too much on looping stress tests instead of using your fucking computer like you normally would. The gap can vary depending on a lot of things; every chip is different. Don't be discouraged because you crashed running Prime95 for a fucking hour.
From what I see on that store:
Around £4: Arctic F12 are the only ones I've hear of, and they are probably the best ones around that price.
Around £8: Nanoxia Deep Silence, but probably the Phanteks PH-F120SP too.
Around £12: Scythe Kaze Flex, also Be Quiet! Shadow Wings 2, Fractal Design Venturi and Fractal Design Dynamic X2 GP-12.
Above that you find premium fans that are optimized for coolers and radiators like the be quiet! Silent Wings 3, Noctua NF-F12, and above.
If you want RGB fans I think the way to go are some of those 3-packs bundles that come around £12 per fan, specifically the Lian Li Bora Lite RGB.
Hoping I could get some advice. I'm currently in need in a router and was wondering whether Netgear D6220 AC1200 Wifi Modem Router is sufficient. This model in particular since it's the only one available for this loyalty point program I'm signed to if not would have to consider buying. Not sure what I'm need to look for specifically other than a good connection. My set up is mostly that I run a LAN cable from the actual modem to another area and need a form of router in the separate location connected by the LAN so I can use laptop and consoles while also wifi. I currently have a router now but currently speeds are capped to 100 Mbps while my actual internet directly connected to LAN provides 950 Mbps.
prior to this build I never had problems with it... but I will admit I don't like wasting USB slots on dongle. My motherboard does have Bluetooth 5.0 so I think I will have to switch! I'm thinking maybe a Razer bluetooth mouse even thought I don't game with mouse and keyboard lol. Maybe I'll pick up a Bluetooth keyboard also!
Dave, you are truly a swell guy. I am going to put this on my list to do. I'll have to google it for my gigabyte X570. So thanks for the info. I did notice consistent boosts so that will be good to help correct that cause it's aggravating.
I think I'm going to get a new mouse and keyboard set both bluetooth. I don't game with it, I use controller so I'll get a set I like. Maybe razer, but they are costly. In regards to position my WiFi shark fin for this MOBO is magnetic and fixed to the back of the Ghost case. Maybe interference with that perhaps?
maybe that's just when I seem to notice it. I did bring up ask manger and for some reason there are like 15 or so "google chromes" which is weird to me... there also was a windows defender process or some sort and I googled it and changed the settings to scan at my desired time instead of whenever as google said it could be resource heavy. I also do have a wired keyboard and mouse... I cant say i experienced the lag. It worked without a hitch.
Welp just got unexpected kernel mode trap bsod. :/ Haha Maybe it is unstable after all. But idk if it's the CPU or GPU overclock. Will try both and figure out the problem. Going to be really bummed if I get another dud of a CPU.
Thank you so much for all the responses!
Cleary the next series will be much better so i will wait
My rx580 will hold up some months more just fine, i think
It would appear that I'm overdue for a new graphics card.
Any recommendations for this build? I can go up to $500 in budget, but my priority is getting something that goes well with this build.
Any recommendations for this build? I can go up to $500 in budget, but my priority is getting something that goes well with this build.
So you just want a new GPU? I also have a RX 480, I'd go with a RX 5700 or a RTX 2060S if I had to change right now.
But ultimately I'll wait until Big Navi and Ampere reveal.
All of the parts for my first build are purchased. I've adjusted the prices to what I paid:
PCPartPicker Part List
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($79.99 @ Microcenter)
Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($104.99 @ Microcenter)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($67.99 @ Microcenter)
Storage: Western Digital Blue SN550 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($89.99 @ Western Digital)
Video Card: Zotac GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER 6 GB GAMING AMP Video Card ($229.99 @ B&H Photo)
Case: Phanteks Eclipse P300A Mesh ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G1+ 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $712.93
Also spent another roughly $600 on fans, rgb leds, further storage, monitor, mouse and keyboard. Can't wait until the rest of the parts arrive and the building process begins.
PCPartPicker Part List
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($79.99 @ Microcenter)
Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($104.99 @ Microcenter)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($67.99 @ Microcenter)
Storage: Western Digital Blue SN550 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($89.99 @ Western Digital)
Video Card: Zotac GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER 6 GB GAMING AMP Video Card ($229.99 @ B&H Photo)
Case: Phanteks Eclipse P300A Mesh ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G1+ 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $712.93
Also spent another roughly $600 on fans, rgb leds, further storage, monitor, mouse and keyboard. Can't wait until the rest of the parts arrive and the building process begins.
This is pretty much how I OC.
I have my 8700k @ 4.6 1.128v. It doesn't pass hours of P95, but it gets a heavy gaming load, because I always aim for 240 fps and has been stable for a long time now doing that.
So I bought this PowerSpec G316 PC back in November:
https://www.microcenter.com/product/514034/powerspec-g316-gaming-desktop-pc
Here are the specs:
Processor - Intel® Core™ i5-9600K Processor
System Board - ASRock Fatal1ty Z390 Pro4 System Board
System Memory - 16GB composed of 2- 8192MB DDR4/3000 DIMMS
Video - NVIDIA GeForce® RTX 2070 PCI Express 8GB
Power Supply - 600 Watt 80 Plus
This is coming more from a position of curiosity than a real desire to currently upgrade anything but if I wanted to keep the motherboard and upgrade the CPU what would my options be and what are the things I would need to consider or account for?
https://www.microcenter.com/product/514034/powerspec-g316-gaming-desktop-pc
Here are the specs:
Processor - Intel® Core™ i5-9600K Processor
System Board - ASRock Fatal1ty Z390 Pro4 System Board
System Memory - 16GB composed of 2- 8192MB DDR4/3000 DIMMS
Video - NVIDIA GeForce® RTX 2070 PCI Express 8GB
Power Supply - 600 Watt 80 Plus
This is coming more from a position of curiosity than a real desire to currently upgrade anything but if I wanted to keep the motherboard and upgrade the CPU what would my options be and what are the things I would need to consider or account for?
Your options would be a 9700k and 9900k. Things to consider would be CPU cooling.
So at first blush it seems like the i7 9700k would be the better buy if I were to upgrade. I have no idea of the specs of the CPU cooler that (I assume) came with my PC so I'll need to figure out that situation.
Today, financially the 9700k would be a better buy. Depends on when/if you would upgrade, because the 9900k would have more longevity with its hyper threading. The 9900k would be your best buy overall. I think the 9700k just wouldn't be worthwhile of an upgrade. If you didn't want to buy a 9900k, you'd be better off saving for a new mobo/cpu on a new platform.
I see there are new Radeon drivers out today with this in the release notes as "fixed":
Anyone here had a chance to try them? My Radeon VII had been really stable until the Adrenaline drivers, then I'd get black screens multiple times a day while watching videos in Google Chrome and Discord in the background. Event Viewer pointed to TDR.
I'd had a good run with AMD drivers but there are some issues that have popped up which have irked me:
Anyone here had a chance to try them? My Radeon VII had been really stable until the Adrenaline drivers, then I'd get black screens multiple times a day while watching videos in Google Chrome and Discord in the background. Event Viewer pointed to TDR.
I'd had a good run with AMD drivers but there are some issues that have popped up which have irked me:
- Multiple displays on the Radeon VII cause artifacting- black flickering occasionally on my main display
- TDR black screen system hangs
- Stuttery performance in The Outer Worlds
- Cannot get a correct 1080i output without overscan with current AMD drivers (yes, I know that's super niche lol)
- Still no support for VRR on LG OLEDs
Say what? If your computer is crashing in any use case, it isn't stable. Simple as that.
Looks like i lost the lottery on this chip. :( i tried 1.32v at 5 ghz and i got a crash and reboot after quitting RDR. I followed everything from this guide.
I think i'm just going to reset everything back to stock setttings except turning XMP II on for the ram. Is the 4.7ghz vs 5.ghz really going to make that much of a difference? I game at 4k/60/1440p 120 fps. Kinda of a bummer same problem i had with the 3900x.
Good news i was able to overclock my gpu. :)
+125 on the core and +800 on the memory and everything seems stable. The core clock runs at around 2040 mhz during gaming so i'm happy i got something that wasn't a total dud lol
I think i'm just going to reset everything back to stock setttings except turning XMP II on for the ram. Is the 4.7ghz vs 5.ghz really going to make that much of a difference? I game at 4k/60/1440p 120 fps. Kinda of a bummer same problem i had with the 3900x.
Good news i was able to overclock my gpu. :)
+125 on the core and +800 on the memory and everything seems stable. The core clock runs at around 2040 mhz during gaming so i'm happy i got something that wasn't a total dud lol
Little update on this issue I was experiencing in case it might help someone else. So I bought a custom build from cyber power, gpu died after 2 days. Rma'd it, they replaced the video card and sent it back. As soon as I hooked it up, even the mildest static discharge (like you don't even feel a zap) could disconnect and reconnect the mouse from across the room. If I stood up from my couch and touched the mouse and made even the slightest zap, I could disconnect the mouse 100 percent of the time. Keyboard too. Tried front ports, back ports, usb 2, usb 3, usb root power settings in device manager, nothing would stop it. Reseated everything, including usb headers, nada.
So I'm like fuck do I need a humidifier, is this normal? Nope, hooked up my old PC back to the same setup, I can straight up rub my ass around on my couch and zap the mouse good, it doesn't even flinch. Leaning towards some sort of motherboard grounding issue, and thats prob what fried the first GPU in the first place right?
Long story long, I just got off the phone with support and theyre gonna rma it again and replacr the motherboard and test it a bunch.
Tldr: if even the tiniest static discharge near your computer is making your usb ports lose connection, that shouldnt be happening and you should rma.
So I'm like fuck do I need a humidifier, is this normal? Nope, hooked up my old PC back to the same setup, I can straight up rub my ass around on my couch and zap the mouse good, it doesn't even flinch. Leaning towards some sort of motherboard grounding issue, and thats prob what fried the first GPU in the first place right?
Long story long, I just got off the phone with support and theyre gonna rma it again and replacr the motherboard and test it a bunch.
Tldr: if even the tiniest static discharge near your computer is making your usb ports lose connection, that shouldnt be happening and you should rma.
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