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The PC Builders Thread ("I Need a New PC") v2
- Thread starter Soda
- Start date
- Status
Forgot to mention that I'm not overclocking or anything.
If I were to upgrade the PSU, what would you recommend?
Yes, those will work. The board has an ARGB header (and a plain RGB one), and those are ARGB leds. Being a mini-ITX it likely only has one connector of each so daisy-chaining will be needed to run both (but this is generally desirable with ARGB anyhow, so the patterns "continue")
Should be fine. Filling out that build on PCPP, it's still under 450W estimated (max).
It's not near the fence. It's fine even for more powerful hardware.
Your PSU is perfectly adequate. Nothing to worry about.
So I got my RX 5700 XT yesterday installed it along with my 16gb of ram and I'm slowly moving my games to the SSD but in games I've tested so far I'm still experiencing regular hiccups/hitching/stuttering(not really sure what the correct term is).
I know Wolcen is buggy but all my friends who have it say it's been a perfectly smooth experience for them and I'm regularly noticing while moving that even though I'm running at 100+fps there is small stuttering. Same goes for Resident Evil 2 (I had the same issues previously so it might be the game).
my CPU is an i7-4790k, these could very well just be games that have issues but I'm not entirely sure at this point.
I know Wolcen is buggy but all my friends who have it say it's been a perfectly smooth experience for them and I'm regularly noticing while moving that even though I'm running at 100+fps there is small stuttering. Same goes for Resident Evil 2 (I had the same issues previously so it might be the game).
my CPU is an i7-4790k, these could very well just be games that have issues but I'm not entirely sure at this point.
Dave, you are the man! Thank you very much. I was pretty sure but not certain. Thanks for the info! 😃
What would you say are the best-for-the-money assignable/rainbow RGB case fans on the market right now?
Thinking about getting the new Define 7 (window with white insides) and RGB'ing the fuck out of it.
Thinking about getting the new Define 7 (window with white insides) and RGB'ing the fuck out of it.
Check CPU usage while you're playing, I moved from my 6600k to a 3700x in part due to similar issues. Processor was often sitting at 95-100% usage, on the new setup it sits at 35-40% in wolcen and no stutter.
thanks for the advice, built my pc, took me around 11 hours, lol. but my 3200 mhz ram is running at 2166, how do i get it to the original speed?
and i would most likely need fans in the future as i only have the back fan
and i would most likely need fans in the future as i only have the back fan
Ok so I'm about to pull the trigger and order all my parts. Since this is my first build I want to double check that I'm getting everything I need.
pcpartpicker.com
I'm also planning on using an Xbox controller with it so I'm curious about if I need anything special for Bluetooth, I'm assuming just a dongle but I wanted to make sure.
Saved Part Lists
pcpartpicker.com
I'm also planning on using an Xbox controller with it so I'm curious about if I need anything special for Bluetooth, I'm assuming just a dongle but I wanted to make sure.
Go in BIOS, and probably overclocking area or such -> enable XMP (maybe DOCP depending on board). Then run memtest86 to see if it's stable at these settings.
Cpu comes with a decent cooler. Save the 40$. you can get windows off ebay for like 6$ tooOk so I'm about to pull the trigger and order all my parts. Since this is my first build I want to double check that I'm getting everything I need.
Saved Part Lists
I'm also planning on using an Xbox controller with it so I'm curious about if I need anything special for Bluetooth, I'm assuming just a dongle but I wanted to make sure.
Thanks for the tip, I've never bought Windows as a stand alone thing before, getting it from EBay is a legit way to get it?
Also on my parts list I have this note
"
- Note:The Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI) ATX AM4 Motherboard has an additional 4-pin ATX power connector but the EVGA SuperNOVA GA 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply does not. This connector is used to supply additional 12V current to the motherboard. While the system will likely still run without it, higher current demands such as extreme overclocking or large video card current draws may require it.
does this mean I should get a different power supply?
hope someone else can chime in, but you will be fine with a evga 650. and yes ebay has windows codes for cheap. make sure you download windows on a usb stick! they have a whole set up thing, it's free. you just pay to get rid of the annoying watermark on the bottom right of your screen.
My initial assumption was the non-TG model had it and it was cut? But there is just a notorious lack of information on this case. And a few rando reviews suggesting cooling is bad. So it's...a dirt cheap case. I tried myself to look through some youtube videos but they all either dodged the ports or also got an off-angle shot that had me screaming for "enhance" mode. :lol If that is USB-C, the port looks...suspect?
[/QUOTE]
I think it really depends on your tolerance for noise. The lesser labels like Deepcool are for sure going to give you tons of value. 50 dollars for 3 fans, that sort of thing. But if you start leaning into the details and caring about PWM, static pressure, or silence, then the more expensive brands come into play. I mean, the best pure looks ARGB right now is your choice of the Corsair LL or Thermaltake Riing Trio/Quad, but if you don't find a sale they can be 2-3x the price of a cheap brand. (I just bought the Riing Trio, but on sale, and with a clear need to have great looking front 140s. I'll post pictures when I do a build.)
That being said, the other factor is aesthetics - a lot of the looks in these fans comes from how many light rings there are. The high end models have 2-3 rings and a huge number of LEDs along with a translucent fan, while the cheap units are just black fans with LEDs along the outer ring. Not really much I can suggest other than hitting up youtube and looking for "best rgb fans" or "rgb roundup", some of the better videos tend to review 3-5 at a time including some of the cheap models, to give you an idea of performance and visuals.
Finally, just keep in mind compatibility. The cheaper ones should be fine but a few might use older pin counts? The higher end have their own problems, like only using their own software (Corsair), hardware (Thermaltake) etc. I believe NZXT is also an offender. In general I'm fine with any ones that support the six motherboard vendors though...
Ok so I'm about to pull the trigger and order all my parts. Since this is my first build I want to double check that I'm getting everything I need.
Saved Part Lists
I'm also planning on using an Xbox controller with it so I'm curious about if I need anything special for Bluetooth, I'm assuming just a dongle but I wanted to make sure.
PSU
As I understand it unless you are running heavy OC or (maybe?) have a 2080ti I don't think you need LN2 mode, so you'll be fine without the extra 4pin.
Thermal Paste
Pretty sure the Hyper 212 has some basic paste you can use...AS5 doesn't hurt and may give a small temp advantage, but up to you.
Controller
If you have the v2 Xbox Controller (the one that supports Bluetooth) you just need a dongle or (preferably) a motherboard with BT built in. I suspect it requires a minimum of 4.0 but not sure.
Videos online suggest you want the 2070S for really hitting high 1440p framerates, but Digital Foundry did a piece suggesting 1440p above 60 was easily doable on the 2060 super if you are running "High" instead of "Ultra" on game settings. So if you have GSync either works, if you have Freesync it depends a bit more on being in the "zone" of the monitor Freesync range.
So need some help to see if anyone ran into this issue. So I just built a new pc with a ryzen 2600 with a rx580 and I'm getting mouse stuttering or lag every quote often, when I play a game I barely notice it but on the desktop I see the cursor stutter afor like a second and it goes back to normal. Don't notice a drop in fps while in game either it seems like everything in the background runs fine as I tested I can still control the keyboard when that happens. So has anyone run into this and how can I fix it?
Yeah, even for a cheap case, I wouldn't want to buy one blind and then find out the Type-C port is non-functional, or non-existent. But it's probably a moot point, as it seems to be off the market (at least here in the states).
I just built my first gaming pc this past weekend and got everything set up in the past few days. I bought a Windows 10 Pro key on eBay yesterday for $4.56 lol. So as living proof I can confirm it works.
One thing to note, the key I bought actually did not work. I emailed the seller asking for a refund or a new key. They gave me some bs workaround that obviously was to try and brush me off. I responded once more saying it doesn't work, please give me a new key or my money back (or I am disputing the purchase). I got a second key and boom was golden. Just in case that happens to you.
Also, I know a few others from another website I belong too that have bought them on eBay with no issues as well.
Is there anything else that experienced PC builders recommend doing/setting up on a fresh build and windows install before gaming and actually saying your pc is good to go?
I did the normal shit like installing and updating windows and drivers. Should I mess with anything in Bios? Fan curves, other settings, etc. Are there specific settings within Windows also that need to be changed, etc? Should i run any bench marks or test for thermals (esp. on a SFF case, the Louqe GhostS1)? I want to make sure I am totally optimized and ready to go.
I did the normal shit like installing and updating windows and drivers. Should I mess with anything in Bios? Fan curves, other settings, etc. Are there specific settings within Windows also that need to be changed, etc? Should i run any bench marks or test for thermals (esp. on a SFF case, the Louqe GhostS1)? I want to make sure I am totally optimized and ready to go.
the best thing to do IMO is to just use it normally for a week or two. Monitor your temps, note any lagging, stuttering, fan noise (like at what level does it bother you).
If you overclocked then run a monitoring program to make sure you aren't running too hot. Otherwise, you're good to go.
So my previous temps in BFV on a 3700x with Noctua U12A of 60-65C have been lowered. I switched my front case fan profile from Silent to Standard, and CPU temps in game are now locked to 55C. Fan noise hasn't increased much. The cooler just wanted a bit more fresh air, glad that's all it was.
That is a good idea... whats a good program to monitor temps. I've seen it mentioned around here so many times but never can remember since it was irrelevant to me until now lol. Coming from a pc my buddy built me in 2016 the noise on this one bugs me a bit... but that one was an ATX case, with not as demanding components, multiple fans an an AIO water cooler so naturally it was silent. I will use it for a week or two.
You've been a great help too... any recommendations for 4K games that look absolutely amazing? RDR2 and KDC come to mind but I played both of those already on X1X. Not sure what to play
No over clocking for me (at least not yet... I am nervous and too green being my first pc build... and being away from windows primarily for over 10 years as I have been mostly Apple besides work. Looks like I am good to go then :)
I'd say HWINFO is good for temps.
Happy to help! For 4K, I'd recommend Nier Automata, Doom 2016, Metal Gear V, and Jedi Fallen Order.
MGSV in particular made my jaw drop in 4k. Played it years ago on the original VCR sized Xb1, so seeing it now in 4k stable 60fps glory running off a speedy SSD was quite an experience.
best way to notice temps is by ear. if your pc sounds like a ps4, something is off.
1440p144Hz is pretty much outta the question for both the CPU and GPU.
Naturally you could play older games or game with the settings dropped to manageable levels at that res and refresh but if you are talking about current and nextgen titles 144Hz is unlikely cept on those hyper optimized titles.
This is with a 2080ti
Wireless mouse by any chance? I have the wireless usb receiver in the front slot of my PC because in the back it caused tons of stuttering.
If you are wired, I still recommend trying a different USB slot.
Is your room very dry/staticy by any chance? It's cold and dry here, and when I blast my heat I get a lot of static built up on my living room rug and couch. My PC is hooked up to the living room TV with kb and mouse on table in front of me. If I sit back on the couch and watch a youtube vid, or play a game with a controller, sometimes when I reach for the mouse to start a new video or close a game I will discharge a small static shock that disconnects/reconnects the mouse immediately and it will stutter for a second.
After my disaster from earlier in the week, I got my Phantecs Eclipse 600s case finally, and re-homed all my new components. Along the way I tested my known good PSU with my old build that stopped working, jumped the power pins and it still didn't work. I reseated the ram, still didn't work. Cleared CMOS... and then it booted. Well that makes no sense. Keep in mind that it was a running system that was just moving power supplies... nothing else changed. Then I tried it with its intended PSU and it powered on again, so I went and rebuit it in its NZXT case... I even shoved my torn to shreds USB3 header pins back into the broken off plastic block thingee just for shits and giggles, and it seems like it holds in place well enough. I even installed Windows off a USB key on that front USB port, so it's at least good enough for USB2! So no big deal that the mobo won't be able to be moved and still use the USB3 header as in a couple of years it's getting retired for sure. I'll have to see about contacting NZXT about acquiring a replacement front IO panel... it seems removable, and I otherwise like the case enough to where it would be nice to use it for next upgrade of that PC...
My main PC build in the Phantecs went pretty well. It's a lot higher end than the NZXT case I got, and it mostly shows. Though there is one minor chink in the white shell on top that I'm just going to choose to ignore. It's a really minor blemish. Got the cable management all sorted. My first attempt at routing the USB3 on this one didn't quite work, it just doesn't line up nicely enough with the cable management holes, and trying to force it in on the angle I had seemed pretty sketchy. This board has the push it in from the side style instead of straight into the board. I could probably get it to work but seeing how wrong my last USB3 header went I was extra cautious and used the other USB3 header on the bottom of the board. It's a little uglier there but I could line it up properly. It does feel super tight. Hopefully if/when I remove it for whatever reason I actually get it out of the socket without breaking it this time...
I had a scary moment updating BIOS from MSI Dragon Center... I figured this shit had to be reliable enough at this point but nope. It started flashing the BIOS, some other text popped up that I think indicated that the flash was maybe done... but it was hard to tell because Windows declared that it was rebooting. I'm pretty sure that was at the request of Dragon Center... but very awkward that it doesn't give you a prompt. Anyway, it reboots into nothing more than a black screen. I let it be for like 20 minutes before trying to mess with it. Restarted again, nothing. Eventually I had to use the emergency flash BIOS button with a USB flash drive... and that took a couple of attempts as well. But I eventually got it up and running with the newest BIOS. Though now Dragon Center doesn't let me change the RGB on my RAM anymore for no obvious reason. So my RAM is on its default rainbow thing... which looks fine I guess, but I had previously set the RAM and my graphics card to both just be white, keeping with the whole two tone stormtrooper vibe the case has. Not a big deal, the rainbow pattern actually looks decent. I ended up not adding the second fan to my Noctua cooler because it would awkwardly block the RAM RGB. It also had an option before to kill the red LEDs that indicate error codes on bootup and I think later just show CPU temp or something. I would much prefer to disable that as it does clash.
These two builds are my first where I have cases with the hidden basement compartment, and clean looking cable management. Everything that's in view on both builds looks nice. The Phantecs build is much nicer looking, but the NZXT is clean as well, and they seemed to have made a couple of better design choices... like front panel connector as a block, with a breakout adapter if you really need it. As opposed to Phantecs where each connector was just loose. Also some of the preinstalled fans on the Phantecs had weird routing, one wire was stretched across where the IO shield goes blocking motherboard installation until I fixed it. And the fan controller thing has a connector meant to go to the motherboard, and it seems like its default route is to the bottom of the board, where I do have extra fan connectors but it's just a little too short to reach. I connected it to the PUMP connector towards the top of my board, which I think is the correct thing to do anyway since that one supports PWM. The little fan board is a bit confusing to me as the preinstalled fans are all 3 pin, and the 4 pin PWM connectors are all unused. And there's one special connector for the back fan that I guess is the one that reports RPMs to the mobo. I should research how that all works, but it seems like they ramp up when needed and are otherwise reasonably quiet, so I think I'm good.
Final builds after juggling all my old and new parts around:
NZXT H510
EVGA Supernova GA 550W
Asrock Z170A Pro4
Core i7 6700k w/ Noctua NH-U12S
Ballistix Sport LT 32GB (16GBx2) DDR4 2400
EVGA GTX 1080 FTW3 (or something like that)
1TB NVMe Samsung EVO 970
Oculus Rift CV1
Some random Dell 1080p monitor from like 8 years ago that I used for Xbox 360 COD
Phantecs Eclipse 600s
Be quiet! Dark Power Pro Power 11 1200w
MSI X570 MEG Unify
AMD Ryzen 3950x w/ Noctua NH-D15 chromax.black
G.SKILL Trident Z Neo 64GB (4x16GB) RGB DDR4 3600
EVGA RTX 2080 Ti Black Edition
2TB NVMe Samsung EVO 970
ASUS ROG SWIFT PG279Q + 2 old Samsung monitors from 12 years ago
The first PC is set up someplace where I'll have room to actually do VR when I feel like it. It's also going to take all my flight sim peripherals because all that shit is just too much clutter for my main PC. This way I can do all my competitive type gaming on my main PC and the laid back peripheral based stuff on the other one. And this time if my mobo gets fried by a power surge I'll have an instant backup for work purposes. I'll probably still need to get a better monitor for that secondary PC, 144+ hz IPS, just need to decide whether I want to do another 1440p screen or take it down to 1080p for the weaker PC. Resolution is nice for flight sims so I'm leaning towards 1440. And in a couple of years assuming I get the kind of use out of the second PC that I think I will, I'll probably upgrade the CPU/GPU anyway so may as well future proof it.
My main PC build in the Phantecs went pretty well. It's a lot higher end than the NZXT case I got, and it mostly shows. Though there is one minor chink in the white shell on top that I'm just going to choose to ignore. It's a really minor blemish. Got the cable management all sorted. My first attempt at routing the USB3 on this one didn't quite work, it just doesn't line up nicely enough with the cable management holes, and trying to force it in on the angle I had seemed pretty sketchy. This board has the push it in from the side style instead of straight into the board. I could probably get it to work but seeing how wrong my last USB3 header went I was extra cautious and used the other USB3 header on the bottom of the board. It's a little uglier there but I could line it up properly. It does feel super tight. Hopefully if/when I remove it for whatever reason I actually get it out of the socket without breaking it this time...
I had a scary moment updating BIOS from MSI Dragon Center... I figured this shit had to be reliable enough at this point but nope. It started flashing the BIOS, some other text popped up that I think indicated that the flash was maybe done... but it was hard to tell because Windows declared that it was rebooting. I'm pretty sure that was at the request of Dragon Center... but very awkward that it doesn't give you a prompt. Anyway, it reboots into nothing more than a black screen. I let it be for like 20 minutes before trying to mess with it. Restarted again, nothing. Eventually I had to use the emergency flash BIOS button with a USB flash drive... and that took a couple of attempts as well. But I eventually got it up and running with the newest BIOS. Though now Dragon Center doesn't let me change the RGB on my RAM anymore for no obvious reason. So my RAM is on its default rainbow thing... which looks fine I guess, but I had previously set the RAM and my graphics card to both just be white, keeping with the whole two tone stormtrooper vibe the case has. Not a big deal, the rainbow pattern actually looks decent. I ended up not adding the second fan to my Noctua cooler because it would awkwardly block the RAM RGB. It also had an option before to kill the red LEDs that indicate error codes on bootup and I think later just show CPU temp or something. I would much prefer to disable that as it does clash.
These two builds are my first where I have cases with the hidden basement compartment, and clean looking cable management. Everything that's in view on both builds looks nice. The Phantecs build is much nicer looking, but the NZXT is clean as well, and they seemed to have made a couple of better design choices... like front panel connector as a block, with a breakout adapter if you really need it. As opposed to Phantecs where each connector was just loose. Also some of the preinstalled fans on the Phantecs had weird routing, one wire was stretched across where the IO shield goes blocking motherboard installation until I fixed it. And the fan controller thing has a connector meant to go to the motherboard, and it seems like its default route is to the bottom of the board, where I do have extra fan connectors but it's just a little too short to reach. I connected it to the PUMP connector towards the top of my board, which I think is the correct thing to do anyway since that one supports PWM. The little fan board is a bit confusing to me as the preinstalled fans are all 3 pin, and the 4 pin PWM connectors are all unused. And there's one special connector for the back fan that I guess is the one that reports RPMs to the mobo. I should research how that all works, but it seems like they ramp up when needed and are otherwise reasonably quiet, so I think I'm good.
Final builds after juggling all my old and new parts around:
NZXT H510
EVGA Supernova GA 550W
Asrock Z170A Pro4
Core i7 6700k w/ Noctua NH-U12S
Ballistix Sport LT 32GB (16GBx2) DDR4 2400
EVGA GTX 1080 FTW3 (or something like that)
1TB NVMe Samsung EVO 970
Oculus Rift CV1
Some random Dell 1080p monitor from like 8 years ago that I used for Xbox 360 COD
Phantecs Eclipse 600s
Be quiet! Dark Power Pro Power 11 1200w
MSI X570 MEG Unify
AMD Ryzen 3950x w/ Noctua NH-D15 chromax.black
G.SKILL Trident Z Neo 64GB (4x16GB) RGB DDR4 3600
EVGA RTX 2080 Ti Black Edition
2TB NVMe Samsung EVO 970
ASUS ROG SWIFT PG279Q + 2 old Samsung monitors from 12 years ago
The first PC is set up someplace where I'll have room to actually do VR when I feel like it. It's also going to take all my flight sim peripherals because all that shit is just too much clutter for my main PC. This way I can do all my competitive type gaming on my main PC and the laid back peripheral based stuff on the other one. And this time if my mobo gets fried by a power surge I'll have an instant backup for work purposes. I'll probably still need to get a better monitor for that secondary PC, 144+ hz IPS, just need to decide whether I want to do another 1440p screen or take it down to 1080p for the weaker PC. Resolution is nice for flight sims so I'm leaning towards 1440. And in a couple of years assuming I get the kind of use out of the second PC that I think I will, I'll probably upgrade the CPU/GPU anyway so may as well future proof it.
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My new build is doing that too. What's weird is the mouse I'm using works fine on my old pc, and my work laptop, and any other pc I've used it on in the past 5+ years for different work computers and such. It's driving me nuts. I don't use it to game but it's doing the exact same thing surfing the internet, and getting my computer all set
Sweet, I will down HWINFO, thanks! And I'll give all of those games a look and see which one sounds most interesting!
Lol, I know that noise all to well! Thankfully it hasn't sounded like that yet but I have not gamed yet. So I'll keep that in mind. I'm in a Louqe Ghost S1 build so This build is more vulnerable to fan noise.
I'm wondering if it's driver's, I just ordered a new mouse just to check to see if it's. Hardware issue. But I been reading around and it looks like a common issue that can go many different ways. Going to try going back one driver release for the GPU to see if that maybe the the issue but first have to check if it's hardware.
keep me posted with your findings and results! I do have a cheap bs HP wired mouse I got with my work laptop, which I decided to test. I didn't seem to notice any issues with that... seemed to work just fine. So for me it seems as if it may be something with the pc as the mouse has no issues on any other thing I use it on.
I checked my mouse drivers and settings and nothing I did seemed to correct it so I'm at a loss! My wireless mouse is just a basic Logitech M510 for the record.
For me, I'd love some controllable 140mm fans that I can easily change, whether it be a controller in the machine or software. I'd love to have one big hub that control up to 10 fans, have rainbow colors and don't literally cost more than the fucking case.
By the way, I'm doing this in a Define 7 and a Noctua D15. Also, my current case runs at about 50 decibels.
Hey everyone, I got a few questions. Ever since I built my PC a month ago, most things worked. But:
1. Sometimes, for seemingly no reason, when I boot up my PC after work, it starts with full rpm and doesn't slow down. Restarts dont do anything, I have to go into the bios for it to slow down again, even though I don't change anything there. Any idea what this could be?
2. Since today, my CPU clock fluctuates between 2190 mhz and the full 3600 mhz every few seconds. I have no idea why, and I didn't tamper with anything in the bios whatsoever since I got the system. It was a steady 3600 just yesterday. This one is super weird and a bit concerning. Have a 2700x.
EDIT: After one restart it's behaving normally again for like 1 minute, then the sound of the cooler changes a bit and it goes into the weird 2190 hrz mode again.
1. Sometimes, for seemingly no reason, when I boot up my PC after work, it starts with full rpm and doesn't slow down. Restarts dont do anything, I have to go into the bios for it to slow down again, even though I don't change anything there. Any idea what this could be?
2. Since today, my CPU clock fluctuates between 2190 mhz and the full 3600 mhz every few seconds. I have no idea why, and I didn't tamper with anything in the bios whatsoever since I got the system. It was a steady 3600 just yesterday. This one is super weird and a bit concerning. Have a 2700x.
EDIT: After one restart it's behaving normally again for like 1 minute, then the sound of the cooler changes a bit and it goes into the weird 2190 hrz mode again.
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Hey everyone- I'm upgrading my GPU and going for a 2070 super.
I have to buy it from Best Buy as I have some gift cards, reward zone certificates, and a 10% off birthday coupon that I can use towards the GPU.
I'm deciding between these 2:
or
any recommendations?
I have to buy it from Best Buy as I have some gift cards, reward zone certificates, and a 10% off birthday coupon that I can use towards the GPU.
I'm deciding between these 2:
or
any recommendations?
I'm just starting overclocking my 9900k after running AIDA64 test for eleven minutes on 5.0 ghz at 1.3 voltage i'm getting temps around 70-80s the highest it went up to was 95 on a kraken x72. Is that normal for a 9900k? prime95 was unstable.
Do you know which parts are making the noise?
More airflow wont necessarily make it quieter automatically if it is the rear fan the one making the noise, you may need to check how noisy it is at different rpms. Adding more cheap fans may just increase the noise as well.
Also, you can test by running your system wide open without the side panel on to see how much the noise comes downs once the internal parts are not being chocked.
I can picture some scenarios three could help airflow however.
- get two fans as exhausts on top. maximize negative pressures so air comes in from every gap it finds, because I frankly don't see any particular side that would work as a main intake. Add no fans in front.
- make the top your intake, put two fans on top, orient the PSU so the fan is facing the interior of the case, put an exhaust fan at the bottom of the case.
- get two or more fans, reverse the fan in the back as an intake and put a fan o top as intake, put the other as exhaust in front reversing the conventional flow to have air come from the rear and exit in front.
I'm not familiar with the brand Gamemax or the fan model, but a fan that is RGB on top of being cheaper then everything else suggest to me that the fan component itself must be low quality.
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thanks, i do not fully get what you are saying, as for the noise, this is when i am playing game, could be gfx, not sure, also the idea of the fan is to reduce heat, not only the noise
The founders edition (Nvidia branded) card has a USB Type-C port, if you need one. Both have backplates. Neither stops the fan at idle. Reading into reviews a bit, it sounds like the Ventus fans get a bit louder at load than the founders edition.
That said I might take the founders edition over the Ventus? Or spend another $20 on the EVGA XC ULTRA (does stop fan at idle, occupies three rear expansion slots, does have USB Type-C).
What do you guys think about this pre built microcenter pc? I already have a RTX 2060 to add to it and it seems it has really nice parts in it and would be cheaper than building it myself.
www.microcenter.com
PowerSpec B743 Desktop Computer; Intel Core i7 9700k 3.6GHz Processor; 16GB DDR4-3200 RAM; 500GB SSD; Intel UHD Graphics - Micro Center
Get it now! The PowerSpec B743 desktop computer is a powerful business machine featuring the Intel Core i7-9700K Unlocked processor, a 500GB NVME SSD, 16GB of DDR4 3200 memory, and the ASRock Z390 Phantom Gaming 4S system board powered by a 600W power supply providing an excellent value loaded...
Looks pretty good spec-wise. Not sure if side panel window is TG or acrylic. (They don't seem to mention it. Cheap TG cases are pretty common so wouldn't be surprised either way.) Guessing PSU is nothing amazing, as in most prebuilts, but it's 600W so you're not really demanding much from it.What do you guys think about this pre built microcenter pc? I already have a RTX 2060 to add to it and it seems it has really nice parts in it and would be cheaper than building it myself.
PowerSpec B743 Desktop Computer; Intel Core i7 9700k 3.6GHz Processor; 16GB DDR4-3200 RAM; 500GB SSD; Intel UHD Graphics - Micro Center
Get it now! The PowerSpec B743 desktop computer is a powerful business machine featuring the Intel Core i7-9700K Unlocked processor, a 500GB NVME SSD, 16GB of DDR4 3200 memory, and the ASRock Z390 Phantom Gaming 4S system board powered by a 600W power supply providing an excellent value loaded...
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I imagined it would be the GPU. So yeah I think the first option of adding two exhaust on top may work. Also because the top is the one area that seems less obstructed.
It would require some testing to actually confirm it works on this particular case, but if you increase the negative pressure inside the case by adding more exhaust without intakes that should make the case suck air thru the orifices in the other brackets right bellow the GPU. So that air would go directly to your card.
Since the front of the case is virtually sealed, I would imagine adding intakes in front would end up helping less than adding more exhausts.
What do you guys think about this pre built microcenter pc? I already have a RTX 2060 to add to it and it seems it has really nice parts in it and would be cheaper than building it myself.
PowerSpec B743 Desktop Computer; Intel Core i7 9700k 3.6GHz Processor; 16GB DDR4-3200 RAM; 500GB SSD; Intel UHD Graphics - Micro Center
Get it now! The PowerSpec B743 desktop computer is a powerful business machine featuring the Intel Core i7-9700K Unlocked processor, a 500GB NVME SSD, 16GB of DDR4 3200 memory, and the ASRock Z390 Phantom Gaming 4S system board powered by a 600W power supply providing an excellent value loaded...
specs are fine, hard drive space is a little small given how cheap one terabyte NVME drives are these days. Building your own PC only takes a couple of hours at most, and you can at least customize your case, drives, PSU etc.
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