-
Ever wanted an RSS feed of all your favorite gaming news sites? Go check out our new Gaming Headlines feed! Read more about it here.
-
We have made minor adjustments to how the search bar works on ResetEra. You can read about the changes here.
The PC Builders Thread ("I Need a New PC") v2
- Thread starter Soda
- Start date
- Status
Random thought, have you enabled "HDMI Ultra HD Deep Color" (LG) on the connected HDMI port, or whatever the equivalent "actually have hdmi 2.0 4K/60 work on this port" setting is on Samsung TV?
The "black screen", is it "no signal" / backlight off?
Can you get your hands on a monitor of any sort to test with?
Yeah. The MetallicGear branch of Phanteks seems to be a combination of budget, but also stuff that would not look great for Phanteks to put their logo on. They have some decent budget offerings, but at the same time...
How to start Windows 10 in Safe Mode (9 ways) - Digital Citizen
How to start Windows 10 in Safe Mode, including when your PC doesn't boot correctly, or when you can't log into Windows 10.www.digitalcitizen.life
My guess is the only option is to pull power and interrupt the boot process 3 times - WTF, maybe some regular win10 users can chime in here. tap F8 no longer works, and this is a "feature"?? Fuck MS lol.
Booting from install media or recovery drive and navigating to safe mode through there has worked for me when needed.
Yeah but that is completely solid, not very useful with roof mounted rad.
That is frustrating! On the plus side, you've narrowed down the issue to a rogue software update.
Here's a thought. Block ALL win updates until you can do the following:
-Update your AMD chipset drivers (these are on the AMD website)
-Go to Nvidia's website and download the non-DCH version of your GPU drivers, copy it to a USB stick
-Use DDU and uninstall your existing dch Nvidia drivers. Yes I know that sounds strange. Because what you're gonna do next is...install the NON-dch version of your Nvidia drivers!
-Now when that finishes, keep windows updates off while your test your system. Try watching YouTube on 4K with hardware acceleration on (should be on by default), download a steam game, browse era, etc.
If all goes well, try windows updates one at a time. Literally. Keep track of your system's reaction to each.
EDIT: just a hunch, but perhaps try clean installing windows to your larger NVME drive.
ABeezy1388 Sorry if this was already tried. I was watching some of the reviews if that NZXT SSF case and they discuss some issues withg pcie-riser cables and I remembered that you have a SSF case.
So I was wondering if your crashes could be related to that. Here's a post in Reddit that has your same mobo.
www.reddit.com
So I was wondering if your crashes could be related to that. Here's a post in Reddit that has your same mobo.
Reddit - Dive into anything
www.reddit.com
Last edited:
2K for the H1 prebuild seems to me a good price... i might buy it. I don't have to wait online to get a preorder of any of the SFF Cases. I just don't know if the CLC is going to last.... or if i can replace the glass front with mesh to make the temps even better.
I'm disappointed there isn't a huge selection of mATX X570 boards. It's the perfect form factor for most people. ATX has too many slots, mITX is just too small. There's even mDTX boards kicking about.
The only one I can find is the Asrock X570m Pro 4, which is only being sold by one retailer here. Where's the rest?
The only one I can find is the Asrock X570m Pro 4, which is only being sold by one retailer here. Where's the rest?
To everyone helping me. (Too many to quote now). I am an idiot and I give you all permission to come after me with your pitchforks for wasting all your valuable time... here was my issue:
When I first started installed windows and everything was good to go I was on my LG oled in my loft. Hdmi from tv to pc.
Yesterday is when I brought it down to the living room on the Samsung when the issues were happening. So in my living room, behind the wall mounted tv is a little receptacle where I plug hdmi from tv to wall. Then in the wall is another hdmi that runs to another wall and acts as a bridge. Then the other wall is where I was plugging the pc to the wall. It's the HDMI in the wall the builders installed pre-drywall that is a piece of shit. The builders used an old non 4K capable cables. Well the 2080 super is a 4k card which is why it would keep going out every time I updated the drivers and it changed to 4k. My other computer worked because it's an old non 4k card 1080p card. I just decided to to go back to the loft and try up there and boom loaded right to windows. Fuckin bloody hell. So I wasted all this time for no reason. I totally forgot the bridge cable in the wall can't handle 4k. So stupid me. So I have a direct cable from living room pc to tv and all good.
so morale of the story I'm an idiot wasted many peoples time BUT my first pc build worked first try and so did windows. I hope that made sense. I owe you all a beer
When I first started installed windows and everything was good to go I was on my LG oled in my loft. Hdmi from tv to pc.
Yesterday is when I brought it down to the living room on the Samsung when the issues were happening. So in my living room, behind the wall mounted tv is a little receptacle where I plug hdmi from tv to wall. Then in the wall is another hdmi that runs to another wall and acts as a bridge. Then the other wall is where I was plugging the pc to the wall. It's the HDMI in the wall the builders installed pre-drywall that is a piece of shit. The builders used an old non 4K capable cables. Well the 2080 super is a 4k card which is why it would keep going out every time I updated the drivers and it changed to 4k. My other computer worked because it's an old non 4k card 1080p card. I just decided to to go back to the loft and try up there and boom loaded right to windows. Fuckin bloody hell. So I wasted all this time for no reason. I totally forgot the bridge cable in the wall can't handle 4k. So stupid me. So I have a direct cable from living room pc to tv and all good.
so morale of the story I'm an idiot wasted many peoples time BUT my first pc build worked first try and so did windows. I hope that made sense. I owe you all a beer
Yes it's lovely!
Great news glad to hear it 👍 That's where I was going with the TV's 4k hdmi settings, but your explanation makes even more sense!
You can be happy it was not a waste of time running all that memtest86, you can now be confident in your RAM/hardware - so many people experience weird occasional crashing issues due to bad RAM it is insane, and either they put up with it or chase all sorts of ideas before figuring it out too late to send it back.
I am so happy that's all it was. It sucks I wasted a lot of time though, and now I have to re set everything up with my programs, etc. Oh well. Lesson learned. It literally is just the HDMI within the wall acting as a bridge. They put crappy cables in. memtest86 did finish too and was on when I got home from work... took 13 hours? All good no errors.
You have been so helpful... maybe I can ask a few more hopefully easy questions.
1. My mouse works fine then seems to freeze up and lag (and it seems in conjunction with the fan)
2. The fan is quiet and then all the sudden I hear chugging for a minute, not sure why? (I can post my specs again if that helps any).
3. How do I know what speed my ram is running at and where in the bios do I fix that, do you know? I tried looking but couldn't really figure it out.
And do you have any suggestions of programs do download to monitor voltage, thermals, etc?
Lol that's awesome man. No worries. Glad it's working.
Reminded me of my friend who bought a $1m+ house with custom renos and found the builders used dollar-store HDMI cables like in this custom made home theatre setup. 720p is gold!
This is the cheap clone of the case though. Half the price comes from the built-in power supply and watercooler.
Price breakdown puts the case itself around ~$130. Compared to other itx case options (and really any other big name case) , I'd say that's pretty cheap indeed. Hell, my current matx case was more than that. I'm strongly considering this case for my next upgrade. Is the psu removable?
1. No idea, try blowing in the sensor maybe some dust or a hair stuck in there. Shouldn't happen obviously, and if it continues and coincides with high cpu activity or something that is weird and not good
2. Common to Ryzen systems. They fluctuate 10+ degrees up and down boosting for even the most trivial task and then backing off when idle. Look in the bios for some kind of "fan smoothing delay", I have mine set to IIRC 7 seconds and it no longer spins up and down unless actually needed.
3. It should say on the right of the screen IIRC when you first enter bios (tho maybe advanced/simple mode difference). If it's not running as you like (the memtest screen shows it should be capable of 3200 C16 IIRC) then find in the bios the setting for XMP and enable. Please note this means you should run memtest again for at least 1 clean pass to have confidence in the hardware being crash-free at current settings. It will also give you an indication how much faster it is, you can compare the GB/s values top left of memtest86 screen. Memory SHOULD be fine at it's rated settings but you don't know until tested!
NB I do have a Gigabyte X570 so if you're really stuck I can find exactly where these settings are, but it isn't currently hooked up to power supply and is sat in a state of half-build for now.
Last edited:
I am glad its working too I was getting fustrated as all hell. I appreciate your help! Now I got to get everything downloaded and running smoothly (see my posts a few above yours for the few things I need to solve) then i can test this bad boy out.
I need to figure out what 4K game I want to see and play first in alllll its goodness.
Side note, do they sell anything wi-fi wise to put on the motherboard for wifi kind of like a laptop has? Do you or anyone know? I got that big ass shark fin with the gigabyte x570 and it really makes the ghost SL look less sexy haha
1. Its actually the same mouse I use at work on my laptop and I have no issues, so I dont think its anything to do with the mouse. It seems to work fine on this pc and then every 45 seconds to 2 minutes it like locks up and lags, and I feel it coincides with the fan/cooler on the pc. I will have to google it.
2. Ugh that is sucky. I will look at my bios fan settings for something similar and see what I can do, may have to result to google here too for my particular mobo's bios.
3. I thought it did but I didnt think it said 3200... I will double check. When I do CTRL ALT DEL and look at the performance and go down to memory it says "3200" does that mean also thats what its running as or that just literally shows what its capable of? I will have to run memtest again then after I get it set and wont be around the pc for a while since it took ages lol!
No I dont want to make you go booting up your X570 if its only on a half built pc right now, you have already done so much to help me out :)
I think you guys are misunderstanding me. I want fans at the top, I just don't want a mesh or perforated top panel. I want the exhaust to work just like the intake works on the front. So up and the the sides, if that makes sense. Basically I want the top of the case to look exactly like the front. No fan holes or circles on the top. I can't seem to find anything like that.
Why would it work for the front and not the top? Shouldn't the fans be able to push the air up and out through the side vents just as easily as they can intake in the front?
This is still way to many keypresses and mouse clicks. I want one hotkey like Windows+Shift+something to bring up the box, drag box, screenshot appears on desktop.
Yes I'm an idiot sorry and misread that bit. The Phanteks Enthoo Evolv is like you want, and otherwise very nice. But, side windows. Maybe they have a version without?
I'm no expert on this (I don't even Win10 yet), but I think it'll need a program like Gyazoo app or Snagit. It would be possible to make an identical feature using say Autohotkey script, but that's quite advanced.
Recently picked up a VR headset, and my GTX 970 is finally showing its age. Currently looking at snagging a 2060 Super, but not sure if I should just keep on saving and waiting until the next-gen Nvidia cards get announced. I guess I could just keep waiting forever, but at some point, it would be nice to finally just bite the bullet and upgrade. Any advice?
What's the cheapest 240mm AIO on the market? Looking to get one. Not necessarily needing a high performance cooler. Just for the looks.
There's always gonna be new stuff coming. That's the PC hardware market. so just ask yourself if you want/need the thing now, and can you get it now.
Damn, that does look slick. Always a goddamn window though. NZXT has one that's similar but again with the stupid window. Ugh.
Stop having terrible taste, PC builders. lol
yeah, Phanteks Enthoo Evolv, Thermaltake S500, Thermaltake A700. All of them have glass windows.
But at the end of the day that's not a great exhaust, I would say the side mounted radiator that is starting to take more hold is the more promising solution for a top without holes. (the problem is that the first thing they do when the get rid of a conventional top panel is that they replace it with glass)
Side with holes isn't any better though.
I like it built into the front side thing (whatever you want to call it) like Fractal does with the front of its cases. That runs the whole length of the case and doesn't look messy. I don't want windows, grills, circles, other gaudy shit on the sides or top of my case. I want a black box, just with the ability to top-mount a radiator.
The NZXT H710i would be perfect if not for, again, the ugly glass window. So tacky and juvenile. I don't know why nobody makes one of these decent cases without the stupid window.
'allo, PC-Era! I'm throwing together a new machine since my current one is running Windows 7 and a CPU from 2010, and I started using it for work, and Unity is murdering it, as Unity is wont to do.
Here is the current build; just looking for any general advice. A couple of general questions/comments in regards to feedback:
1) It will be used for both work as well as general Steam gaming. I don't tend to play crazy hardware-pushing games; the most intense game(s) in the near future are probably RE3make and possibly Half Life Alyx, if I can borrow a friend's headset for a bit.
2) I don't usually fiddle with overclocking since I like to stick with the included heatsinks/fans.
3) For the case, I just grabbed something that seemed simple and clean, and not too expensive. Suggestions are welcome.
4) Someone else I talked to mentioned that the Ryzen CPUs are very finicky with RAM, so if you have any information/suggestions in regards to that, I'm all ears. My preliminary research suggests that most of the RAM issues have been ironed out already.
5) I might skip the GPU and transfer my current GTX 970 to try and hang on 'til the new cards drop later in the year, since I seem to hear a lot of buzz about them being the next generation of power in regards to ray tracing and DisplayPort versions and whatnot.
6) I have a decent PSU @ 650W that should be sufficient for the new machine.
7) Any reason to go with OEM versus full retail (digital code) for Windows 10?
Thanks in advance for your time.
Here is the current build; just looking for any general advice. A couple of general questions/comments in regards to feedback:
1) It will be used for both work as well as general Steam gaming. I don't tend to play crazy hardware-pushing games; the most intense game(s) in the near future are probably RE3make and possibly Half Life Alyx, if I can borrow a friend's headset for a bit.
2) I don't usually fiddle with overclocking since I like to stick with the included heatsinks/fans.
3) For the case, I just grabbed something that seemed simple and clean, and not too expensive. Suggestions are welcome.
4) Someone else I talked to mentioned that the Ryzen CPUs are very finicky with RAM, so if you have any information/suggestions in regards to that, I'm all ears. My preliminary research suggests that most of the RAM issues have been ironed out already.
5) I might skip the GPU and transfer my current GTX 970 to try and hang on 'til the new cards drop later in the year, since I seem to hear a lot of buzz about them being the next generation of power in regards to ray tracing and DisplayPort versions and whatnot.
6) I have a decent PSU @ 650W that should be sufficient for the new machine.
7) Any reason to go with OEM versus full retail (digital code) for Windows 10?
Thanks in advance for your time.
6 years of sales have told NXZT that they got to have glass windows, it being a looks oriented brand, rather than something more practical like Fractal Design.
In times likes these one wishes these brands were more blatant at just making copies of each other cases, like Thermaltake is so happy to do. So one could get different takes on the same general design.
Last edited:
2) You should be fine with a 3700X, the 3800X is a better binned version, the the performance difference is not worth the price, more so if you are just running on the stock cooler.
3) That's a Full tower. For something mid sized with similar looks (assuming you want the 5.25" drive bay) there's the Enthoo Pro M. Another Option with the bay are the be quiet! PURE BASE 600,
NZHT H1 SFF
I'm late to the impressions table here, but I agree with Vulcano's Assistant that not having a PCIe 4.0 riser is a huge problem. Sure, if you're rocking Intel and RTX 20x0, no problem, but it's super awkward for anyone grabbing a Ryzen ITX and either risking Radeon or waiting on RTX 30x0.
Apart from that, it's super slick. Not only for beating Microsoft to market, but the initial $350 USD sticker price seems a lot more reasonable once you factor in that it has a pre-installed SFX power supply and CPU AIO, I mean front usb-c cases are generally kept to the expensive cases, 650w SFX is kind of a big deal at 80+Gold and fully modular. I think I would have strongly considered doing a build with the X570 Aorus ITX but the Gen4 problem is kind of a deal breaker for now.
I'm totally onboard the RGB revolution, mostly because my young kid is obsessed with fans and wants to see them spinning. :lol
For anyone randomly wondering, it does seem like non-sidepanel options are out there (Meshify C, for instance). But generally speaking any "airflow" or "mesh" case is attacking the topic directly and doing direct vents rather than side filters. For the airflow crowd its a half measure and will get killed in reviews as favoring the convenience of a flat top over cooling.
Specs:
RAM
It's not exactly that Ryzen is finicky (today), it's just that Infinity Fabric does better with timings and clockspeed, so the most important thing is to have RAM that is supported by your motherboard's QVL (qualified vendor list). After that, it's nice to have 3600 (if possible) but 3200 CL16 is totally fine. After that you can either use XMP or DRAM calculator for specifics later once you've setup your build.
GPU
I'm very partial to EVGA and if I had to buy a GPU today, the RTX 2070 Super is it. But! I would definitely rough it with the GTX 970 for now if you can, because the 3060/3070/3080 are right around the corner and even if they are more expensive than your current option, the performance jump should be substantial. Alyx is undoubtedly going to struggle, but in VR most builds will.
CPU
No particular reason to go 3800X unless it's on sale or very, very close in price to the 3700X. Generally speaking this is the least appealing Ryzen CPU to buy for the money. But again, if you see it priced on sale closely to the 3700X, I get it. For most gamers I believe the 3600 or 3600X make more sense because you can shift that extra money over to the GPU spending. I'd rather have a 3600 and 2080 than a 3800 and a 2070, for example. But either way I would try to look up some benchmarks in case I was wrong. :lol
I'm late to the impressions table here, but I agree with Vulcano's Assistant that not having a PCIe 4.0 riser is a huge problem. Sure, if you're rocking Intel and RTX 20x0, no problem, but it's super awkward for anyone grabbing a Ryzen ITX and either risking Radeon or waiting on RTX 30x0.
Apart from that, it's super slick. Not only for beating Microsoft to market, but the initial $350 USD sticker price seems a lot more reasonable once you factor in that it has a pre-installed SFX power supply and CPU AIO, I mean front usb-c cases are generally kept to the expensive cases, 650w SFX is kind of a big deal at 80+Gold and fully modular. I think I would have strongly considered doing a build with the X570 Aorus ITX but the Gen4 problem is kind of a deal breaker for now.
I'm totally onboard the RGB revolution, mostly because my young kid is obsessed with fans and wants to see them spinning. :lol
For anyone randomly wondering, it does seem like non-sidepanel options are out there (Meshify C, for instance). But generally speaking any "airflow" or "mesh" case is attacking the topic directly and doing direct vents rather than side filters. For the airflow crowd its a half measure and will get killed in reviews as favoring the convenience of a flat top over cooling.
Specs:
RAM
It's not exactly that Ryzen is finicky (today), it's just that Infinity Fabric does better with timings and clockspeed, so the most important thing is to have RAM that is supported by your motherboard's QVL (qualified vendor list). After that, it's nice to have 3600 (if possible) but 3200 CL16 is totally fine. After that you can either use XMP or DRAM calculator for specifics later once you've setup your build.
GPU
I'm very partial to EVGA and if I had to buy a GPU today, the RTX 2070 Super is it. But! I would definitely rough it with the GTX 970 for now if you can, because the 3060/3070/3080 are right around the corner and even if they are more expensive than your current option, the performance jump should be substantial. Alyx is undoubtedly going to struggle, but in VR most builds will.
CPU
No particular reason to go 3800X unless it's on sale or very, very close in price to the 3700X. Generally speaking this is the least appealing Ryzen CPU to buy for the money. But again, if you see it priced on sale closely to the 3700X, I get it. For most gamers I believe the 3600 or 3600X make more sense because you can shift that extra money over to the GPU spending. I'd rather have a 3600 and 2080 than a 3800 and a 2070, for example. But either way I would try to look up some benchmarks in case I was wrong. :lol
I finished building my pc yesterday. It went well for a first time except that I messed up the placement of the ioshield with the mb so I have like this little metal thing that I had to bend to plug my internet cable. I was to lazy to unscrew everything.
Now I need the best looking game ever to test this mother*cker, preferably a short action game. Any ideas ? Can't play DmC 5 because I have the previous 4 to catch up.
But I tested it and it looks goooooood.
Now I need the best looking game ever to test this mother*cker, preferably a short action game. Any ideas ? Can't play DmC 5 because I have the previous 4 to catch up.
But I tested it and it looks goooooood.
Short action? Perhaps Hellblade: Senuas Sacrifice, or Control
Crazymoogle one of the NZXT H1 videos I saw (Level1Techs) showed his ASRock board had a BIOS setting to force PCIe 3.0, he talked about it some. It's fine when you do that, but perhaps not all boards offer the option yet. I don't think any mini ITX case riser will be 4.0 compliant now, if ever?
Just play DMC V! While there are a lot of cutscenes and lore, you can catch up on that stuff with wikis and the intro video in the game.
Otherwise, I second Control and Resident Evil 2 (2019) is the bomb and also short.
I tried Control on PS4 but dropped it the framerate was kinda bad so I guess I'll retry it on pc then. Thanks.
I kinda want to play 3 and 4 tho. And I'm already playing 1.
I kinda want to play 3 and 4 tho. And I'm already playing 1.
Last edited:
Yeah, at the moment it's best just to get a mobo that lets you bump the pcie speed to 3.0 and I'd hazard a guess that it takes at least one more gpu gen before 4.0 is in any way needed, not to mention a requirement. There are already some riser cables that the manufacturers have tested to work with 4.0 and more are at the works but since the official spec doesn't allow cables it's all in the air until there are actual components that really push the bandwidth to fully test it with.
Realistically the cables are just carrying the signal so it's mostly about carrying it properly before resistance kicks in. Some google-fu suggests the problem is - no surprise - distance. After 7" it needs a retimer. So definitely some technical complexity and cost. Intel did publish the Gen 3 riser spec so maybe folks are still waiting for Intel support, too.
I guess if boards all have a way to force 3.0 on the slot, that's fine? But I wouldn't want to sacrifice 4.0 across the board; not that we are all buying Gen4 M2s but I'd like to have the option.
Also, to the user who wanted a cheap emergency case solution, I have to admit this one off of reddit was perfect:
(Yep, Lego, good below 105c I think)
From what (little) I understand of the subject, interference and isolating the signals from each other and external sources is the biggest problem. That was also the stated reason for the increased complexity and price of the X570 boards. Also yeah, Intel not having 4.0 is also slowing down adoption, since no matter if it's certified or not, unless it can be tested and works with everyone's solution it's not good enough.
At least what I've seen, switching the port gen either only affects the first slot or has options for all the ports separately, so no worries there.
Folks with 3700x, what are your temps in Battlefield 5, or cpu intensive games? I was hitting around 60-65C, is that on the high side?
Are you using the stock Wraith Spire cooler? I don't have BF5 but yes, when I was doing CPU intensive stuff it would max out in the 60s as well.
Ryzen just tends to run hot.
I eventually swapped out the cooler for a Scythe Mugen Rev.B and that knocked a good 5-10C off. WAY quieter too.
Noctua U12A cooler. I had my front case fans set to the Silent profile curve in Q-control, just set them to the Standard profile and I'll see if it makes a difference.
Now that my build is complete and up and running thanks to everyone here helping me trouble shoot. I wanted to add a pack of these on the bottom of my case (Louqe Ghost S1). I realize the case isn't transparent but in the dark the RGB from the mobo shines through all the case's side panel holes and looks cool; so really to give it that glow I wanted to linethe case bottom with these:
will these work with my motherboard? Where I can control them via software like I do the motherboard RGB itself. I'm a little confused with what connection I have. Here's my motherboard:
will these work with my motherboard? Where I can control them via software like I do the motherboard RGB itself. I'm a little confused with what connection I have. Here's my motherboard:
Thanks for the info! I'll take a look at the mid-size towers. I think I'm used to buying larger towers since my current machine still has 2x ancient CD/DVD reader/burners. Guess there's no reason not to downsize.
I'll take a look at the MoBo and find that QVL. I'm not in any hurry to play Alyx, so that can easily wait 'til the new GPUs come out. I've always been fond of EVGA for no particular reason; I think my last few GPUs have been from them. But I will try to stick to Nvidia since my wife bought me a lovely Gsync monitor a few years ago for Christmas and it's a great bit of functionality to have. :)
Cases are a bitch to ship/sell, but things like mobo and psu should be pretty easy to sell.
Doing a search for [computer case usb type-c] on Amazon, I noticed the Thermaltake J21 TG. It's just an Amazon search, so I know these things aren't always going to give you 100% matching results. Looks like a pretty standard budget TG mid tower case. Don't know if it's still sold in the U.S. (last Newegg user reviews were from 2018). But what caught my eye is that none of the specs (official site, amazon or newegg), and none of the user reviews, mention a Type-C port. (Specs just say 2x USB 3.0, 2x USB 2.0, and audio in/out.) But if you look at the product shots it looks like there's a Type-C port. And in a Croatian YouTube video that actually shows closeups of the ports, you can see it clearly, a Type-C port labeled "USB 3.1".
A slickdeals listing from 2018 had this thing at $35 after rebate on Newegg, which I assume would be the lowest priced case with a Type-C port. (Looking around today, the NZXT H510 seems to be the cheapest option at $70, and only a couple other models under $100.) I wonder if maybe they pulled that feature to cut costs, but the space for the port is still there? Weird.
A slickdeals listing from 2018 had this thing at $35 after rebate on Newegg, which I assume would be the lowest priced case with a Type-C port. (Looking around today, the NZXT H510 seems to be the cheapest option at $70, and only a couple other models under $100.) I wonder if maybe they pulled that feature to cut costs, but the space for the port is still there? Weird.
Hey
I'm upgrading to a gtx 2070S and my current psu is a 600b 600W. My cpu is a Ryzen 7 2700 and i have 16gb Ram. Would my current psu be okay or should I upgrade?
I'm upgrading to a gtx 2070S and my current psu is a 600b 600W. My cpu is a Ryzen 7 2700 and i have 16gb Ram. Would my current psu be okay or should I upgrade?
- Status