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The PC Builders Thread ("I Need a New PC") v2
- Thread starter Soda
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It sounds like the GPU may be the issue - see if you can get a replacement. I presume you have only just built the PC. Most manufacturers should allow you to return and replace faulty products within 1 year.
I had the same issue on my Ryzen build with a Titan Xp and I never could figure out how to fix it. Not an issue anymore on my new build I'm so happy.
It's an RTX 2070 Super from Gigabyte.
The funny thing is that it now seems to work perfectly fine, so I think it may have actually been the cable all along. Perhaps that specific cable (quite a long one that I had previously only used for my Switch so it could sit beside my sofa) just couldn't handle displaying at a 4K resolution for too long.
I'm downloading Fallout 4 as a test game (it's simply one of the most recent games I have) to see whether there's any issues with the GPU but, right now, the issue itself hasn't appeared for a while.
But still, fuck PCs :P
I used to have the same thing happen to me running on a 4k tv. Itd cut off randomly until I got a new cable i knew could handle 4k. Also make sure you're running at 60hz.
THIS. So much this.
I've lost count how many people whose TV's and Monitors I've "fixed" by simply setting them up with a certified 4K HDMI cable or certified DisplayPort cable. Monoprice is an excellent choice for these cables.
So I was wanting to try out the Oculus Link stuff. I started plugging in the USB-C cable to the back of my motherboard and suddenly the entire computer shut down.
Now the wi-fi simply isn't working. I've tried reinstalling the drivers but, nope, it ain't fucking working.
AHHHHHHH
Now the wi-fi simply isn't working. I've tried reinstalling the drivers but, nope, it ain't fucking working.
AHHHHHHH
Yep, nothing I've tried sorts the wi-fi out. I've rebooted the entire computer, I've uncrewed and screwed the antenna, I've uninstalled and re-installed the drivers.
NOTHING
WHY DOES PLUGGING IN A USB-C CABLE BREAK THE WI-FI SO BADLY
FUCK PERSONAL COMPUTERS SO MUCH
My replacement 980ti from EVGA just bit the dust. Same as the last one, doubt they'll replace this one. I might actually have to buy a 20XX series card :'( I was really hoping it would last until the 30XX series... I knew the replacement they sent wouldn't last long but a handful of months is ridiculous.
I was thinking 2070 super... even though the value will probably plummet in a few months -__- damnit.
I was going to try the oven bake method but linus says that will make the oven unusable for food afterwards so I probably shouldn't do that. I do have a heat gun though...
I was thinking 2070 super... even though the value will probably plummet in a few months -__- damnit.
I was going to try the oven bake method but linus says that will make the oven unusable for food afterwards so I probably shouldn't do that. I do have a heat gun though...
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This is the X570i Aorus Pro Wifi ? Since it doesn't have a clear CMOS button on the back, you can try shorting the CLR_CMOS jumper towards the lower left corner.
Yep, nothing I've tried sorts the wi-fi out. I've rebooted the entire computer, I've uncrewed and screwed the antenna, I've uninstalled and re-installed the drivers.
NOTHING
WHY DOES PLUGGING IN A USB-C CABLE BREAK THE WI-FI SO BADLY
FUCK PERSONAL COMPUTERS SO MUCH
Or you can try what this person on the Gygabyte forum did for the bigger Aorus Pro. https://forum.gigabyte.us/post/34055
- turn off and unplug the computer from the wall (or turn PSU switch off)
- press the power button to discharge the mobo
Doesn't seems to be a lasting solution, according to that guy''s experience with the other Aorus board, it is a recurring problem.
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Thanks! However I think I've fixed it. Wi-Fi is back on and working. I went into the BIOS settings and enabled IPv4; I tried going into the IPv6 menu but the BIOS froze when I clicked on it (seriously, how the fuck does a BIOS freeze???).
Hopefully that should be the end of the issues...
...but I have a feeling it won't be :(
The board looks pristine, no burnt marks or bulging caps. I did swap in another battery and nothing changed.
Here's a pic of the board.
It's strange, i got up to go to the kitchen and when I came back 2 mins later it was toast. ☹️
There a 980ti for sale in the BST section. Maybe that'll hold you over till 3000 series. Especially once you sell your broken card for parts/as-is.
Build went pretty well. Only issue now is the Windows activation.
I had associated my windows key with my Microsoft after a harddrive failure a while back. Which is why I, perhaps foolishly, didn't write down my activation code. If it worked, I should have just have been able to sign in as I always do. Plus I still had the old hard drive. When it didn't activate on my new M2 drive, I tried to boot off the old drive(which I hooked up to my new build) but that also wouldn't activate. Nor did it give me ready access to the key. Although maybe that's still somewhere in a command prompt.
I even tried to stick my graphics card and old harddrive back into my old pc. The idea being that maybe I didn't actually properly associate my windows key with my Microsoft account. But it wouldn't boot off my drive and said it needed a repair(probably because it was just hooked up to the other computer).
I wasn't in the mood for that so I tried to call Microsoft support. That guy just told me to call back tomorrow when tech support was in. After that I disovered that I guess, and this may be the root cause of all this trouble, I guess I originally purchased Windows 8 as an OEM in 2013. And then that got upgraded to Windows 10 at some point. But is it still OEM? Am I just screwed?
I had associated my windows key with my Microsoft after a harddrive failure a while back. Which is why I, perhaps foolishly, didn't write down my activation code. If it worked, I should have just have been able to sign in as I always do. Plus I still had the old hard drive. When it didn't activate on my new M2 drive, I tried to boot off the old drive(which I hooked up to my new build) but that also wouldn't activate. Nor did it give me ready access to the key. Although maybe that's still somewhere in a command prompt.
I even tried to stick my graphics card and old harddrive back into my old pc. The idea being that maybe I didn't actually properly associate my windows key with my Microsoft account. But it wouldn't boot off my drive and said it needed a repair(probably because it was just hooked up to the other computer).
I wasn't in the mood for that so I tried to call Microsoft support. That guy just told me to call back tomorrow when tech support was in. After that I disovered that I guess, and this may be the root cause of all this trouble, I guess I originally purchased Windows 8 as an OEM in 2013. And then that got upgraded to Windows 10 at some point. But is it still OEM? Am I just screwed?
So thankfully everything seems to be working for me now!
My only issue is that it seems that the PC's a fair bit louder than I thought it would be. I don't remember it being this loud when I last built a PC in the case. The temps don't seem too bad either, with about 40c idle on both the GPU and CPU.
Any tips?
My only issue is that it seems that the PC's a fair bit louder than I thought it would be. I don't remember it being this loud when I last built a PC in the case. The temps don't seem too bad either, with about 40c idle on both the GPU and CPU.
Any tips?
Thank you very much for mentioning that but I really don't trust the 980ti anymore to pick up another one! I think I play too hard for it to hold up at this stage.
I haven't overclocked my 8600k manually since I got it. I decided once I received the replacement 2080 Super I would give it another shot. The automatic XMP voltage is overkill with this Asus board. I think for 4.8 was 1.42? I haven't tested any lower yet, but I'm down to 1.28v after an hour of Prime95 non-AVX. I don't take the temps and stability of Prime95 as gospel for worthiness, so I'm a bit of a heretic in that regard. Temps with gaming on a single fan aio radiator don't go above 70-75, so I think there's the potential to lower the voltage 0.01 at a time and tune the fans to be a bit more responsive in the high end.
Anyone have any advice on clocking memory? I got an amazing deal on 32gb of 2400 Corsair Vengeance a while back that I want to OC a bit more as its a minor bottleneck with my rig, IMO. I can do 2700 without an issue, but am unexperienced going any higher. Otherwise, I may sell it for 3000-3200 while the prices are decent.
Anyone have any advice on clocking memory? I got an amazing deal on 32gb of 2400 Corsair Vengeance a while back that I want to OC a bit more as its a minor bottleneck with my rig, IMO. I can do 2700 without an issue, but am unexperienced going any higher. Otherwise, I may sell it for 3000-3200 while the prices are decent.
So here's my situation:
One option would be to get a test bench of some kind, but I'm concerned about safety. This computer is going to live on the floor, because there's no other place for it, and I have a Roomba.
This is a Micro ATX build, for whatever that's worth.
- A friend is doing me a huge favor by creating a custom, modded case for me.
- He's taking a long time, and I don't know when he'll be finished.
- I really can't wait any longer to get this PC set up.
One option would be to get a test bench of some kind, but I'm concerned about safety. This computer is going to live on the floor, because there's no other place for it, and I have a Roomba.
This is a Micro ATX build, for whatever that's worth.
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Since the thread is touching on PC annoyances, one of my hard drives died recently and there was nothing wrong with it in SMART checks, not clicking or nothing until it just died. It was an old drive though, the lack of any signs of failure is annoying though. Worse thing it died at just the "right" moment when I deleted a backup of it whilst I was juggling space wtf fml.
Luckily it wasn't critical data just media, but the time invested hurts more than the actual content if you get what I mean. I tried the pcb-bios swap on a donor board and that didn't work. It still spins up fine no clicks just no longer recognized in bios etc. Time to move on I guess since other solutions aren't an option money-wise.
Luckily it wasn't critical data just media, but the time invested hurts more than the actual content if you get what I mean. I tried the pcb-bios swap on a donor board and that didn't work. It still spins up fine no clicks just no longer recognized in bios etc. Time to move on I guess since other solutions aren't an option money-wise.
The defacto standard for dirt cheap cases - and testing to see if you board works before putting it in the case - is literally setting the motherboard on top of the closed motherboard box. But the floor is going to get you into trouble. So I'd either make the desk space or buy the cheapest case you can find on you online service of choice.
You might be screwed if you don't have the original activation code.
Here's what you should be trying: On the Windows 10 activation control panel (Settings->Update & Security->Activation), click "Troubleshoot", then tell it you changed hardware recently. If your key was connected to your MS account it should show a list of PCs that it has registered. Select the one that's yours pre-upgrade. If it gives an error and that doesn't work.. that's where things get muddy.
I had a similar issue after rebuilding my PC. Windows refused to activate, giving an error whenever I tried to link it to the key on my Microsoft account.
I called MS support but they said without the original product key from the older version of Windows (7 in my case) I was SOL.
Now in my case I had saved the old product key number so I was able to re-enter it and everything worked fine at that point, but it was touch-and-go for a while there. If you don't have the original product key you might be out of options.
So I finally got all my parts and my build completed! Here is my final setup after a few component swaps:
Power Supply: EVGA 650GM 80+G FM SFX PSU
Memory: G. SKILL 32GB 2X16 D4 3200 RIPJAWS
Storage: IPSG 256GB I PREMIUM NVME SSD (boot drive)
Storage: IPSG 1TB I PREMIUM NVME SSD
CPU: AMD AMD RYZEN 5 3600X WRAITHS
Motherboard: GIGABYTE X570 AORUS ITX WIFI
GPU: EVGA RTX 2080 SUPER BLACK GAMING
Cooler: NOCTUA NH-L9a CHROMAX BLACK
Case: LOUQE GHOST S1 LIMESTONE
So I'm happy with this being my first time building a pc everything worked after initial build. However I am a bit bummed with noise. It seems a *tad* loud and I'm not sure what it's from? I was hoping for silent. I haven't even gamed on it yet and I can hear the fans. Not sure If it's the cooler or the GPU fans? I thought the NOCTUA NH-L9a CHROMAX BLACK was supposed to be a top notch silent fan. I also purchased the NOCTUA NH-L12S if that's a better option? (It requires a little bending to clear the max clearance to fit within the Ghost S1 case though.)
I have not touched fan curves or any bios settings yet. Does anyone have any suggestions for fan settings, things to change in my bios, etc? (Or point me to a good guide). Also what program(s) should I get to monitor temps and performance? Should I run the pc through any specific testing?
Power Supply: EVGA 650GM 80+G FM SFX PSU
Memory: G. SKILL 32GB 2X16 D4 3200 RIPJAWS
Storage: IPSG 256GB I PREMIUM NVME SSD (boot drive)
Storage: IPSG 1TB I PREMIUM NVME SSD
CPU: AMD AMD RYZEN 5 3600X WRAITHS
Motherboard: GIGABYTE X570 AORUS ITX WIFI
GPU: EVGA RTX 2080 SUPER BLACK GAMING
Cooler: NOCTUA NH-L9a CHROMAX BLACK
Case: LOUQE GHOST S1 LIMESTONE
So I'm happy with this being my first time building a pc everything worked after initial build. However I am a bit bummed with noise. It seems a *tad* loud and I'm not sure what it's from? I was hoping for silent. I haven't even gamed on it yet and I can hear the fans. Not sure If it's the cooler or the GPU fans? I thought the NOCTUA NH-L9a CHROMAX BLACK was supposed to be a top notch silent fan. I also purchased the NOCTUA NH-L12S if that's a better option? (It requires a little bending to clear the max clearance to fit within the Ghost S1 case though.)
I have not touched fan curves or any bios settings yet. Does anyone have any suggestions for fan settings, things to change in my bios, etc? (Or point me to a good guide). Also what program(s) should I get to monitor temps and performance? Should I run the pc through any specific testing?
Check the BIOS to make sure that you have the fans set to PWM assuming that's what they are and are not set to run 100 percent. There's probably a default curve on there already for you to enable.
So this is what I came up with to replace my fried Intel motherboard.
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 6-Core, 12-Thread Unlocked Desktop Processor with Wraith Stealth Cooler
Motherboard: MSI Arsenal Gaming AMD Ryzen 2ND and 3rd Gen AM4 M.2 USB 3 DDR4 DVI HDMI Crossfire ATX Motherboard (B450 Tomahawk Max)
-If there's a good mb without all the dumb lights and good ratings let me know.
PSU: Corsair CX Series 550 Watt 80 Plus Bronze Certified Modular Power Supply (CP-9020102-NA)
Case: Fractal Design Define C - Compact Mid Tower Computer Case
~$450
This will be paired with an Radeon RX 480, 16GB Adata XPG DDR4 3000, Sandisk SSD.
I see some mobos with inegrated VGA out. Is it possible to use the onboard VGA out (I have a CRT) while the regular graphics card is still active on DP/HDMI?
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 6-Core, 12-Thread Unlocked Desktop Processor with Wraith Stealth Cooler
Motherboard: MSI Arsenal Gaming AMD Ryzen 2ND and 3rd Gen AM4 M.2 USB 3 DDR4 DVI HDMI Crossfire ATX Motherboard (B450 Tomahawk Max)
-If there's a good mb without all the dumb lights and good ratings let me know.
PSU: Corsair CX Series 550 Watt 80 Plus Bronze Certified Modular Power Supply (CP-9020102-NA)
Case: Fractal Design Define C - Compact Mid Tower Computer Case
~$450
This will be paired with an Radeon RX 480, 16GB Adata XPG DDR4 3000, Sandisk SSD.
I see some mobos with inegrated VGA out. Is it possible to use the onboard VGA out (I have a CRT) while the regular graphics card is still active on DP/HDMI?
I'm torn on how much I should spend.
This is the very cheapest matx case on newegg right now: https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16811147320?&quicklink=true
But, the reviews indicate it's also difficult to build inside. And since I'm going to be both building and removing the computer from this thing in a short amount of time...
If Microsoft are using a 12tf gpu targeting 2160p does this mean a PC player can target 1080p on a single overclocked rtx 2060?
In real world performance it seems about right, a next gen build could be quite affordable for those looking to invest.
Or am I incorrect?
In real world performance it seems about right, a next gen build could be quite affordable for those looking to invest.
Or am I incorrect?
That's a minimum expectation and it does matching Turing upgrade jump over Pascal without factoring the RT cores.
So I'm looking for a new keyboard (rubberdome) at max €50. I'm already eyeing some boards which are the Sharkoon Skiller SGK4 and/or SGK5 (30-40 €) and Logitech G213 Prodigy (€50) but I'd like to hear some impressions for these boards or alternatives.
ps. My current keyboard is an ancient noname board I use as the other ones I had before (also really cheap) broke, so anything is an upgrade.
/e/. I'm also open for mechanical keyboards (but that will also be more expensive) but they should be quiet with red or brown switches.
ps. My current keyboard is an ancient noname board I use as the other ones I had before (also really cheap) broke, so anything is an upgrade.
/e/. I'm also open for mechanical keyboards (but that will also be more expensive) but they should be quiet with red or brown switches.
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Turing is a really bad series in terms of perf gains.
Min for next series is 50-60%.
There is 7nm improv too
It's not bad by any means when you factor in Raytracing. Nvidia dedicated large portion of the die for the RT cores hence the lower gains in rasterization performance. Enable ray tracing on a pascal GPU and you see significant performance increase. DLSS is also very powerful now and makes the gap much larger.
You're kind of right, lower resolutions don't always deliver the performance boosts you'd expect, so that part can't be relied on, but the Microsoft are planning on selling a much weaker and cheaper console, so games will be designed to scale to lower specs.
Also alot of the next gen power predictions don't account for thermal and psu limits of consoles, so I can't see a 2060 becoming obsolete for a few years unless they've got some fancy tech we don't know about.
That said MS and Sony appear to have put alot more resources into designing these consoles compared to this generation, which was almost off shelf parts with minimal investment (as every analyst was predicting the death of consoles), so it won't be quite as cheap as the start of this gen, when you could beat both consoles with an almost the same price PC (or less compare to the first Xbox package).
So I spent the morning researching the best ways to get a new Windows 10 key. And I asked a friend if he could snag me a code because he's a college student. With the idea that he'd say "yes/no" and tell me how much he wanted for it. Instead he just sent me the key and said "you owe me $100." Apparently he just bought Windows 10 last month because he didn't realize he could get it for free. So he's charging me $100 for his free copy. Without checking with me. Not worth making it a thing but I need confirmation that this move is bullshit.
I mean you can buy yourself a key at retail for that amount.
He's honestly been a pretty good, generous friend at other times. Which is also why I'm not calling bullshit. But money is tight I guess.
Sounds like he's trying to offload his mistake on to you.
You can get cheap OEM Windows keys on Amazon and Ebay quite easily nowadays.
So... did he pay $100 for the first key, or $200? (I mean it could be a Win 10 pro retail copy.) While this doesn't really affect you saying "no" to his deal, it just informs us of how much of a dick he's trying to be here.
Can you tell which fans are the culprits? Is it case fans, CPU or GPU?
- If you think it is the GPU or CPU you can try running a game or benchmark while the side panel is off to create an artificial scenario with better airflow. If the fans slow down on this scenario than maybe you have to find the balance between increasing the speed of the front intake or adding more fans to reduce the speed of the internal fans, maybe removing filters.
- But if their fans are still loud with the case wide open, then you probably can't help them adjust themselves to more quiet behavior by having more airflow. So it'll be down to tweaking their fan curves to be less aggressive.
- If it is the case fans I think the easiest is you to go down to the level of noise you want and then start increasing the speed if the temps are undesirable.
- Another tip is having the rear fan be slower than the intake. I know you only have one SYS_FAN header available, but maybe by using different models of fans or a RPM Reduction Cable. The front fans normally have to do more work than the rear giving the nature of the front of the fractal case, while the rear exhaust has few obstructions.
- In most situations all you would need is a combination of your motherboard's software to set a curve for CPU and Case fans and MSI Afterburner to set a curve for your GPU.
- But if you want to the system fan curves to be tied to other than CPU temps, SpeedFan lets you do this, but it is a very unintuitive software to use, and may simply not be compatible with your mobo, it happens.
In the market to do this myself. Any suggestions on what to look out for? There's soooooooo many on eBay.
Is there any worthwhile reason I should wait for this years Ryzen 4000 series CPUs rather than just buying one of last years? Was going to wait but now I'm thinking of just getting a 3900x, and if I go that route what are some good overclocking mobos for it?
Sorry I haven't got personal experience, just what I heard from people online.
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