Ah yes an HDD with that age may be the culprit, especially if comparing to youtube benchmarks that are almost undoubtedly SSD's. Not directly fps but would cause variations. Open world games for example.
-
Ever wanted an RSS feed of all your favorite gaming news sites? Go check out our new Gaming Headlines feed! Read more about it here.
The PC Builders Thread ("I Need a New PC") v2
- Thread starter Soda
- Start date
- Status
Ah yes an HDD with that age may be the culprit, especially if comparing to youtube benchmarks that are almost undoubtedly SSD's. Not directly fps but would cause variations. Open world games for example.
Yeah. The 9900k and the 9700k are what they are. Ryzen 3rd gen is a hit. Ryzen 4th gen is supposed to hit some time this year, but you can't go wrong with the current platform. (outside of the 3800, that one seems to be a SKU without a real place to justify it)
Recently started noticing coil whine from my EVGA GTX 1080 SC. Never noticed it before since the old pc was on the ground, with the new pc on my desk next to me it's pretty noticeable. PSU is Corsair rmx 650w gold, mobo is Asus TUF x570. I'm assuming I'm way out of warranty coverage, but is there anything that can be done to reduce coil whine, besides limiting fps?
Link to my build for full parts list.
pcpartpicker.com
Link to my build for full parts list.
Keep it Clean Air Cooled Ryzen 3700x Build
Check out Superkamikazee's completed build on PCPartPicker! Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core, GeForce GTX 1080 8 GB Superclocked Gaming ACX 3.0, Eclipse P400A Digital ATX Mid Tower, ...
pcpartpicker.com
Clear CMOS. That should fix it.
Unless you lost power halfway through the process (or you were in windows and it crashed), it's unlikely a board was bricked by BIOS flashing.
Even if it did, a B450 Tomahawk Max has flashback so you should be able to flash again without need for it to boot.
Also I am guessing you used some bundled windows software to so the flashing? I would not recommend that, I only ever flash from within BIOS itself these days.
I loaded the new bios onto a thumb drive, rebooted into bios, selected the option to start a bios update, pc rebooted and came back on to a black screen.
Sounds like you did it perfectly then. Clear CMOS and give it time. First boot is always slower.
I have had coil whine in every GPU I have owned. It's pretty much unavoidable these days. Most GPU manufacturers will not honor warranty for coil whine unless it's very extreme.Recently started noticing coil whine from my EVGA GTX 1080 SC. Never noticed it before since the old pc was on the ground, with the new pc on my desk next to me it's pretty noticeable. PSU is Corsair rmx 650w gold, mobo is Asus TUF x570. I'm assuming I'm way out of warranty coverage, but is there anything that can be done to reduce coil whine, besides limiting fps?
Link to my build for full parts list.
Keep it Clean Air Cooled Ryzen 3700x Build
Check out Superkamikazee's completed build on PCPartPicker! Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core, GeForce GTX 1080 8 GB Superclocked Gaming ACX 3.0, Eclipse P400A Digital ATX Mid Tower, ...
Eh I dont think so... i just popped out the cmos. Really hoping this fixes it.
Nope. Nothing
MSI Board? Use the jumper to clear the CMOS, as described in the manual. Popping out the battery never worked for me.
I'm going to try to flash it in the morning using the bios flash button. If that doesnt work I'll just buy a new board
You need to use the jumper to clear cmos, as catpurrcat said - removing the battery only works if you leave it without power for ~hours.
If it still doesn't work after that and trying to re-flash, you can try vendor replacement (depending on country) and failing that manufacturer RMA it for a replacement, it obviously shouldn't have died during this procedure. Probably need not buy a new one.
Do you have a speaker connected/ is it making any error beeps?
Got my first wifi6 router (Nighthawk ax8) and this is a game changer for me.
This feels like next gen wifi.
This feels like next gen wifi.
That thing is a monster. Also, it's videocard level expensive. Can't complain about the looks or .ax WiFi though!
Okay, this will be a stupid question for most people, but my experience with AIOs is zero.
I will be installing a 360mm AIO into a P400A phantek case. It will have to be placed in the front. The AIO manual only covers "top mounting" which has a
Case
--------- (small screws)
Radiator
--------- (large screws)
Fans
Orientation.
But I'd like a
radiator | fans | case
orientation in the front.
Do I just use the "long" screws to hold everything together?
I hope the question makes sense to at least one person.
I will be installing a 360mm AIO into a P400A phantek case. It will have to be placed in the front. The AIO manual only covers "top mounting" which has a
Case
--------- (small screws)
Radiator
--------- (large screws)
Fans
Orientation.
But I'd like a
radiator | fans | case
orientation in the front.
Do I just use the "long" screws to hold everything together?
I hope the question makes sense to at least one person.
Got a great deal for more than half off. That helped ease the pain lol
Shameless bump on my post. Any thoughts or opinions on this plan? Any potential roadblocks?
The motherboard just arrived. Put everything together and it is working! Now onto reinstalling Windows 10.
You only have one M2 slot.
Since you only have two RAM slots, going 2x8GB might backfire in a couple or years.
You can easily downgrade to 500W as long as you aren't planning on going beyond 2070S/3070 tier GPUs.
Ugh, super lame, but it is what it is. Thanks for the reply.
crap, I thought I looked and that mobo had two M2 slots. I wonder if there are any similar with 2 slots, I'd love to take advantage.
I can also bump it to 2x16 for the RAM To future proof it. Truth be told I'd like to build it and not have to upgrade much. I'm looking to game at 4K60FPS, I was going to buy the 2080 super but many suggested to hold off... which Is why I thought about building now and getting everything set up excluding the new card, I'll use my current one for now...
Update -- I tried doing a flash from the Flashbios slot on the back of my tower. Double checked all the steps, made sure it was a fat32 type and renamed the file to MSI.ROM. Plugged it in, hit the bios flash button, it started to light up! I got excited, maybe this was the fix. But alas, it was not.
I didnt want to mess around with too much more on the mobo as i thought i had truly killed this thing. It wasnt supplying power to any of the Usb's, all my fans kicked in but it was a blank screen. A few people had said try jumping the Cmos, I was wary of doing more to this but i figured what the hell.
I didnt have anything to "jump" it with, i didnt have the small piece ive seen in the videos. What i did have however, was an old 3 pin fan and i gave that a shot, why not!
It actually worked! It booted up and the Bios, while not the newest version, is working and my PC is working again. Thank you everyone for the help and suggestions.
If you have a Hyper 212 EVO with no AM4 bracket, the newer Black Edition is a pretty well-liked, an improvement over the older EVO.
If you want something beefier still under $60, maybe the Mugen 5 Rev. B.
Wonderful news, glad to hear it!
FWIW the usual tool for shorting cmos pins (or the power button for that matter!) is the tip of a screwdriver.
It is common to have to clear cmos after flashing a bios. Not always, but if a significant amount of it is new changed the previously saved settings can make no sense, you can imagine.
I was planning to use my old hard drive as a games/storage. I should be fine just hooking it up, as is, as long as it's further down the boot chain, right? I should just be able to add any installed games from steam by adding a secondary directory, right? What about the other launchers? And is there a utility for cleaning up the windows and unnessary stuff on the old drive. Or just good old fashioned delete key?
I recently upgraded to a 2070 Super, z90 Gigabyte Aurora Pro MB, and an I7-9900 processor. I carried over my DDR4 2666 memory but should I upgrade to a higher memory mhz or will I not notice much of a difference and just save my money? Want to make sure my memory isnt bottlenecking
Given that it's an Intel CPU, you likely won't see much of a difference.
Now, my main issue is that from what I can see, the Bios i am using is 4 updates behind. And im terrified to try and update it again.
Is there something that isn't working on the current BIOS you have? I never flash unless it's absolutely necessary.
Theres been quite a bit of improvements it looks like, from the patch notes.
What resolution/refresh rate are you running, and how much RAM would you be replacing?
This link has benchmarks with a 9900k and 2080ti, so a little beefier than your setup, but also on a Z390. At 1080p, there is some difference between 2666 C15 and 3400 C16. But stepping up to 1440p or 4K, there's hardly any difference at all.
If you're trying to max things out at 1080p, and only need 16GB, ddr4 3600 C16 can be had for $85.
Memory Overclocking on Z390 Coffee Lake: What RAM Speed Do You Need?
We evaluate the impact of memory speeds from DDR4-2133 to DDR4-4400 on the Coffee Lake Refresh platform.
I have some experience with this. I would recommend trying to update the BIOS one migration step at a time, rather than jumping ahead four.
What resolution are you gaming at? Intel I believe isn't as sensitive to ram speed as Ryzen is so you should be fine.
You don't need to worry. You did everything correctly, followed best practices. You were simply not aware of the sometimes need to reset cmos after a bios flash, or the pin-shorting procedure for doing so - and there's no shame in that, it's hardly an every day process! I'm convinced that was the only step you were missing.
Now you have this knowledge you should be good for many bios flashes!
Although, with a 2xxx series CPU you aren't really under any compatibility pressure to run the most up to date, and I wouldn't blame you if you never updated a bios again lol.
I think i actually screwed up the initial flash. I didnt have the Flash file alone on the stick, i had it in the folder with the readme also...sigh.
I may just focus on tweaking the other components. My RAM runs great with high speeds and low timings, my CPU is around 3.9 with stock cooler. I think its my 570 that needs some attention.
Hey! So I'm looking into building a new PC primarily for Doom Eternal, Half Life: Alyx and Cyberpunk 2077. It will be one based on the Fractal Design Nano S I already own so everything has to be Mini ITX compatable.
The primary thing I'll be looking for here is getting at least 1440p/60fps in high-end titles such as those listed above. I'm fine skipping out on a few games to play on consoles (namely Ubisoft open worlds like Watch Dogs: Legion). In terms of other usages I doubt I'll be doing anything akin to heavy video or photo editing but, if I do somehow get into those things, I'm fine upgrading the CPU. This will be primarily for gaming and VR.
Right now I already have:
Case: Fractal Design Nano S
PSU: Corsair RM650x
Here's what I've been thinking so far for the
Motherboard: Aorus X570I Pro WIFI - £200
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 or 3600x - £154 or £189
CPU Fan: Noctua NH-L9a Low-Profile for AM4 - £35
GPU: ASUS Turbo RTX 2070 Super (Single Fan Blower-Style) - £504
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 16GB LPX 3000Mhz - £71
Boot/Commonly-Used Games SSD: Crucial MX500 500GB M.2 - £63
Storage SSD: Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5inch - £111
Total: £1136 or £171
However before I really start looking into it I've got a few burning questions:
1) Should I buy a low-profile PSU to allow for other styles of graphics card coolers or will I be fine with a blower-style card and the current regular-sized PSU? Also do PSUs degrade over time? I've had that one boxed in storage since around mid-2017.
2) Is the Motherboard future-proofed for future generations of Ryzen CPUs?
3) Do I need the CPU fan or will the one that comes with the 3600/3600x do?
4) Should I get the 3600 or 3600x?
5) Is there a GPU that better fits my need right now for a lower price? My main concern is that I buy this £500 GPU only for the 3000 GPUs to blow it out of the water for a similar price; however I don't want to wait for the 3000 GPUs so the lower the price now the better
6) Is 1440p gaming on a 4K TV fine? I know most people use monitors here but if anyone's got any thoughts on this then that would be great!
7) Reviews say that the motherboard only comes with 1 system fan header; does this mean that I can't have a fan at the front and back of my PC or am I getting things wrong here?
And if you just have any general thoughts then feel free to say them! Any help will be much appreciated! :)
The primary thing I'll be looking for here is getting at least 1440p/60fps in high-end titles such as those listed above. I'm fine skipping out on a few games to play on consoles (namely Ubisoft open worlds like Watch Dogs: Legion). In terms of other usages I doubt I'll be doing anything akin to heavy video or photo editing but, if I do somehow get into those things, I'm fine upgrading the CPU. This will be primarily for gaming and VR.
Right now I already have:
Case: Fractal Design Nano S
PSU: Corsair RM650x
Here's what I've been thinking so far for the
Motherboard: Aorus X570I Pro WIFI - £200
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 or 3600x - £154 or £189
CPU Fan: Noctua NH-L9a Low-Profile for AM4 - £35
GPU: ASUS Turbo RTX 2070 Super (Single Fan Blower-Style) - £504
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 16GB LPX 3000Mhz - £71
Boot/Commonly-Used Games SSD: Crucial MX500 500GB M.2 - £63
Storage SSD: Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5inch - £111
Total: £1136 or £171
However before I really start looking into it I've got a few burning questions:
1) Should I buy a low-profile PSU to allow for other styles of graphics card coolers or will I be fine with a blower-style card and the current regular-sized PSU? Also do PSUs degrade over time? I've had that one boxed in storage since around mid-2017.
2) Is the Motherboard future-proofed for future generations of Ryzen CPUs?
3) Do I need the CPU fan or will the one that comes with the 3600/3600x do?
4) Should I get the 3600 or 3600x?
5) Is there a GPU that better fits my need right now for a lower price? My main concern is that I buy this £500 GPU only for the 3000 GPUs to blow it out of the water for a similar price; however I don't want to wait for the 3000 GPUs so the lower the price now the better
6) Is 1440p gaming on a 4K TV fine? I know most people use monitors here but if anyone's got any thoughts on this then that would be great!
7) Reviews say that the motherboard only comes with 1 system fan header; does this mean that I can't have a fan at the front and back of my PC or am I getting things wrong here?
And if you just have any general thoughts then feel free to say them! Any help will be much appreciated! :)
Alright folks, it's nearly time to add a GPU to my Intel-based HTPC:
I have this:
I'm thinking of going with the 2060 once I can get one closer to its $300 MSRP, but I don't really care about ray tracing. Great support for VR is more important to me if that's even a trade-off to make.
So given all that, and my PC's specs, which GPU around $200-350 might make the most sense and be the most well-balanced, especially to play something like HL: Alyx on an Oculus Quest + Link?
I have this:
- 450W power supply
- Core i5-9600K
- 16GB DDR4 3000MHz
- 500GB Samsung 970 M.2 NVMe SSD
I'm thinking of going with the 2060 once I can get one closer to its $300 MSRP, but I don't really care about ray tracing. Great support for VR is more important to me if that's even a trade-off to make.
So given all that, and my PC's specs, which GPU around $200-350 might make the most sense and be the most well-balanced, especially to play something like HL: Alyx on an Oculus Quest + Link?
Get the 2060 KO from EVGA or upgrade to the 2060 Super and you're good.
1) You could get a much smaller SFX PSU if you want, but your current PSU is not limiting to a blower style card. A non-blower card with one of its fans obstructed by the PSU being too close to it is still a quieter and cooler card than a blower under load.
- You can also have the fan of the PSU pointing inwards and that way it is sucking out the hot air from the GPU and is less of an obstruction.
- PSU don't degrade without use, and without rough use what degrades is the fan.
2)Yes, that is newest type of board you could buy for Ryzen.
3) The box cooler does the job, but it is not that great. However that low profile Noctua is not an ideal upgrade for the price and for the situation because you can fit a better performing and bigger tower cooler of similar price like the ARCTIC Freezer 34 eSports DUO in the Nano S.
4) Not worth it for the price, unless there is a deal. with 3600x you get a CPU that is better binned, and a better cooler on the box, but not better than a one you can buy on your own.
5) Two situations:
- Keeping it nvidia: Asus GPUs are sometimes a bit more expensive than other brands, even keeping to 2070 super you can find non-blower cards from the other brands like a Gigabyte WINDFORCE OC 3X that are cheaper than the blower Asus. I think getting a card with 3 fans also further improves the situation with your PSU being too close to the GPU. You case allows for cards that up to 31.5 cm long which is longer than most cards nowadays.
- Getting a RX 5700XT is paying considerably less for similar performance to the 2070 Super, but it depends on whether you are used to the Nvidia ecosystem and prefer its perks or not. Same as above, a longer card with three fans like Gigabyte's is what I would recommend.
6) Sometimes depends on the quality of your TV, since cheap TVs may cut corners on the quality of the scaling, but 1440p definitely looks fine on 4k TVs, especially if you are not sitting as close to it as if your were using a monitor.
7) Lack of motherboard fan headers aren't a big issue. For those situations there are cable splitters, or fan hubs that get extra power from the PSU.
8) The Crucial MX500 is a SATA drive with an M.2 connection, I would say as boot drive get an NVMe drive because there are models that are about the same price for the same storage.
Last edited:
Wow, thank you so much for all the answers! I'll respond to each of them in turn, but before I do you've been a really great help here :)
1) Ah, I thought that a blower-style was absolutely necessary for an ITX case like mine. However thinking about it I suppose there's still a fair bit of room and, unlike most ITX cases, the Nano S is styled much more as a 'Small Tower Case' than a 'Small Form-Factor PC' case.
Also when you say "without rough use what degrades is the fan," is that a typo or do you mean that the fan will have degraded over time?
2) Thanks! So it'll definitely be able to use Ryzen 4000 CPUs when they come out?
3) Ah, so I'll pass on the small Noctua, then. I do have a Noctua NH-U12s from when I last used the case but it doesn't have an AM4 bracket so unfortunately that's not something I can really use. I think that I might get another NH-U12s with AM4 capabilities as I really love Noctua fans in general and it's only £15 more than the one you suggested; I just wanted to see whether it might have been a good idea to get the low form-factor one.
4) 3600 it is, then. If I want to upgrade I can always just upgrade to a 7 or 9 series Ryzen 3000 or, if the answer to Number 2 is 'yes', a Ryzen 4000.
5) I think I'll stick with Nvidia here. Whilst I am fine with going AMD for the CPU I'm not sure I want to go with them for the GPU. I've also heard about possible heat issues with AMD GPUs which isn't great for an ITX build
6) That's good then because my TV's an LG C9 OLED. Can't really get much better lol
7) Thanks! I'll get a splitter (I might even have some already) for the two Noctua fans I've got lying around.
8) Thanks! I'll get that one, then.
Again thank you a whole bunch for the answers!
What are you using to take advantage of it? Your phone?
I'm guessing by your post that wifi to non gen 6 stuff is improved?
1) Just saying that since fans are a moving parts, and if something were to degrade over time, it may be the bearings of the fan. But it is unlikely that a fan on a PSU fails since they are built to last.
2) Can't promise with 100% certainty, but all points to yes.
3) I believe this mounting kit should make older NH-U12s compatible with AM4.
- Status