Don't know if this deserves it's own thread but it's PCish. I am being inundated with "thank you for signing up" emails in my gmail. Like 30 emails every minute. What the hell is happening.
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The PC Builders Thread ("I Need a New PC") v2
- Thread starter Soda
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Do you mean AIO or SFF (small form factor)?
- Monitor AIO (its all built in the back): can be okay, but typically are not going to find a great, quiet, upgradeable build. You'll sacrifice something.
- Tiny Builds (ITX or smaller, as seen on LTT and other places): Can be really cool in that they are small, but noise and heat are definitely more noticeable. And they are rarely cheaper.
That being said, I mean, AIO monitor builds are kinda interesting. This one (singapore link, sorry) has a pretty high spec, so I'm sure there are equivalents in your country. I'm not sure it's ever upgradeable but if you buy exactly what you want, maybe that doesn't matter?
The new Intel Ghost Canyon is pretty interesting if you want SFF. It's about as tiny as it gets, Laptop wattage but desktop cores, and fits a full size RTX card.
I'm sure somebody here will correct me if I'm wrong, but Windows Home license should transfer, but Windows OEM will not? At least that's how I understood it.
As I understood it, below 30fps, you're in Vsync mode regardless. G-Sync with the module kicks in at anything above 30, while freesync typically only kicks in at 40+? With the upper and lower end defined by the monitor. There is some other weird stuff if you go over limit (like, 144hz+).
That's the fine print, but I've done a bunch of computers and have never been rejected. My PC is a Windows 7 OEM that's been re-used a stupid number of times. The serial has since been upgraded to a Win 10 license and been used on another couple completely new hardware configs. Windows 10 does tie the license to the hardware and gets rid of serials, so you do need to tie it to a MS email account if you want to transfer to different hardware configs.
Thanks! It seems to be pretty much the same monitor, I'll check out the availability.
Is any of that a problem or cause for issues? Really annoying VRR wasn't standardized and became a format war like everything else, HD DVD vs Blu Ray, HDR10 vs Dolby Vision, etc
Not really, because Nvidia started letting in various freesync models to be used in Gsync mode. You're still range limited, but it works so long as you use the override and have a GTX 10 series or better. They effectively lost their own war by requiring expensive custom chips. Long term, HDMI 2.1 VRR and DisplayPort 2.0's mode should basically put the nail in the coffin.
For now, module Gsync is the best experience, but whether you can actually notice the difference overall Is a question mark. Toms Hardware ran a piece last year where the difference was negligible. A lot of the advantage used to be that anyone could ship a free sync model, so you'd end up with kind of absurd ranges like 45-75hz. But things have improved across the board since then. Still, the advantage to Nvidia is simply that you can't break spec. So it depends what monitor you buy.
Gotcha, I'm considering the LG 27GL83A-B, it's 144hz, G-Sync compatible, uses the same panel as the LG 27GL850 which is on Nvidias website as supported.
My boss asked me to build a computer to replace the one he's using, which is actually one I built about a decade ago. I'm gonna move the old computer to another room of the business for other purposes, but I'd like to tune it up a bit before doing so. The case has been fairly battered and kicked about over the years, so I'll probably transplant the motherboard into the cheapest non-dumb looking case I can find along with replacing the HDD with an SSD.
Should I replace the CPU fan outright or just replace the thermal paste? It's whatever originally shipped with the Intel Core 2 Quad it's currently sporting. I figure ten years is a long enough period for it to start to mechanically break down so I might be better off just getting a cheap OEM-style fan to replace it with.
Edit: Figure I may as well post the parts list for the new computer I'm building for him.
PCPartPicker Part List
CPU: AMD Ryzen 3 2200G 3.5 GHz Quad-Core Processor ($84.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte B450 I AORUS PRO WIFI Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard ($119.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-2933 Memory ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Blue SN550 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Case: In Win Chopin HTPC Case w/150 W Power Supply ($97.48 @ Amazon)
Total: $442.44
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-01-29 12:13 EST-0500
Should I replace the CPU fan outright or just replace the thermal paste? It's whatever originally shipped with the Intel Core 2 Quad it's currently sporting. I figure ten years is a long enough period for it to start to mechanically break down so I might be better off just getting a cheap OEM-style fan to replace it with.
Edit: Figure I may as well post the parts list for the new computer I'm building for him.
PCPartPicker Part List
CPU: AMD Ryzen 3 2200G 3.5 GHz Quad-Core Processor ($84.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte B450 I AORUS PRO WIFI Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard ($119.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-2933 Memory ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Blue SN550 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Case: In Win Chopin HTPC Case w/150 W Power Supply ($97.48 @ Amazon)
Total: $442.44
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-01-29 12:13 EST-0500
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Google helped me - apparently this is what scammers do so you don't see the fraud alert warnings. Chase e-mailed, texted, and called me about 4 fake purchases. Assholes (not Chase, they were awesome).
As a follow up to my post about building a new pc and just bringing over the hard drives-- did it all last night and had no issues whatsoever. Thank you for guys for the input!
As a side note, really dont see a huge performance difference from an fx8350@ 4ghz to a ryzen 2600 at 3.9ghz, even with much faster ram. Still, it's nice to not basically have a space heater coming out of my tower.
As a side note, really dont see a huge performance difference from an fx8350@ 4ghz to a ryzen 2600 at 3.9ghz, even with much faster ram. Still, it's nice to not basically have a space heater coming out of my tower.
Where would you expect to see a difference but have not yet?
After setting up drivers I went and played some Destiny 2 with the same settings and had the same average fps
Most cases now have a panel behind which all your cables will sit and you just feed the motherboard , GPU, etc. cables in. Some also have a power supply shroud built in so you won't even see the cables coming out of the PSU as the entire thing is hidden. You can add cable combs to the cables that are coming in for an extra neat look. I'd also go with a M.2 disk for storage so you can avoid the power and connector cables for SATA drives.
I posted this in the PC gaming thread, but it should go here:
Hi all, I've had this setup since 2016:
i5 6600k @ 3.5 GHz
16 GB RAM
GTX 970 graphics card
And I'd like to invest in something new this year that'll last me another 3 or 4 years. I don't mind spending a bit of money, but I also don't play AAA stuff that often, so I probably don't need anything monstrous. I'd rather spend closer to $500 than $1000. Any advice? If I upgrade just the graphics card, should I upgrade the i5 as well? It has an overclock feature that I've never used, maybe that'd help beef it up enough to last a bit longer?
1) What's your budget and currency? 500-800 CAD
2) What do you want to use the computer for? Gaming, want it to last 3-4 years, Cyberpunk 2077 would be nice, also art stuff/Photoshop
3) When do you plan to purchase the parts and build it? Summer/fall 2020
4) Are you reusing any parts or are you building a completely new computer? Would like to reuse some old stuff if possible
5) Do you only need the computer itself or do you need accessories, such as a monitor, mouse, keyboard, and speakers? Just the comp!
6) Are you interested in overclocking? (Overclocking is running components such as the processor or video card at a higher speed than they come from the factory. It can give additional performance but can come with consequences such as increased heat (requiring better cooling), higher power consumption, possibly more noise, and stress testing to ensure that the overclock is stable.) Open to the idea!
Hi all, I've had this setup since 2016:
i5 6600k @ 3.5 GHz
16 GB RAM
GTX 970 graphics card
And I'd like to invest in something new this year that'll last me another 3 or 4 years. I don't mind spending a bit of money, but I also don't play AAA stuff that often, so I probably don't need anything monstrous. I'd rather spend closer to $500 than $1000. Any advice? If I upgrade just the graphics card, should I upgrade the i5 as well? It has an overclock feature that I've never used, maybe that'd help beef it up enough to last a bit longer?
1) What's your budget and currency? 500-800 CAD
2) What do you want to use the computer for? Gaming, want it to last 3-4 years, Cyberpunk 2077 would be nice, also art stuff/Photoshop
3) When do you plan to purchase the parts and build it? Summer/fall 2020
4) Are you reusing any parts or are you building a completely new computer? Would like to reuse some old stuff if possible
5) Do you only need the computer itself or do you need accessories, such as a monitor, mouse, keyboard, and speakers? Just the comp!
6) Are you interested in overclocking? (Overclocking is running components such as the processor or video card at a higher speed than they come from the factory. It can give additional performance but can come with consequences such as increased heat (requiring better cooling), higher power consumption, possibly more noise, and stress testing to ensure that the overclock is stable.) Open to the idea!
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Hey guys, quick question...
A colleague of mine bought an RX 590 back in December with the promotion for getting two games (I'm pretty sure they were Borderlands 3 or Ghost Recon?).
He is finally unpacking the stuff and building his PC this week but he is not finding any information anywhere about the promo. Where should he be looking for? Is it supposed to come directly from AMD or from the retailer?
A colleague of mine bought an RX 590 back in December with the promotion for getting two games (I'm pretty sure they were Borderlands 3 or Ghost Recon?).
He is finally unpacking the stuff and building his PC this week but he is not finding any information anywhere about the promo. Where should he be looking for? Is it supposed to come directly from AMD or from the retailer?
The retailer should give you a code, which you then redeem on AMD's website. Tell him to check is receipt, it was on the receipt when I bought my 3800x in December.
Silly question time! It's been YEARS since I've built my PC from scratch...
Z390-A MOBO
Two questions...
1. The manual indicates that if I use the M.2 slot below the processor, it disables one of the SATA ports. However, if I use the M.2 slot hidden under that slender accent by the RGB square thing on the bottom, it doesn't. So I suspect I should be using that for my M.2 to avoid eating up one my SATA ports, right? Any downside to this?
2. How do I install Windows via USB with this? And I don't remember, but I will need to change the boot order to boot the M.2 before the SATA ports, correct?
Sorry for the silly questions, just don't want to mess it up!
Z390-A MOBO
Two questions...
1. The manual indicates that if I use the M.2 slot below the processor, it disables one of the SATA ports. However, if I use the M.2 slot hidden under that slender accent by the RGB square thing on the bottom, it doesn't. So I suspect I should be using that for my M.2 to avoid eating up one my SATA ports, right? Any downside to this?
2. How do I install Windows via USB with this? And I don't remember, but I will need to change the boot order to boot the M.2 before the SATA ports, correct?
Sorry for the silly questions, just don't want to mess it up!
Yeah you want to use the m.2 slot that doesn't disable the SATA port first. Not only will it not disable the port, it will also run NVMe drives at the full speed instead of being limited to SATA.
Yes you will need to go into the BIOS most likely and select boot order.
I'm waiting for the GPU because financially, I can't buy everything at once, so I was planning on buying piece by piece and then building this summer, while adding the gpu at a later date.
I knew the ram was overkill, was just curious, that'll save some money.
I honestly have no idea why I bought that power supply back in 2015, but it's the one I went with haha.
What do you guys think of this build from iBuyPower? I'm about to jump
- Case(Pure Base 500 Tempered Glass Gaming Case - Black)
- Processor(Intel® Core™ i9-9900KF Processor (8x 3.60GHz/16MB L3 Cache))
- iBUYPOWER PowerDrive(None)
- Processor Cooling(Asetek 690LS 360mm Liquid Cooling System - Z390)
- Memory(16 GB [8 GB x2] DDR4-3200 Memory Module - Certified Major Brand Gaming Memory)
- Video Card(NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti - 11GB GDDR6 (VR-Ready)
- SLI Bridge(None)
- Motherboard(MSI MPG Z390 GAMING PRO CARBON -- RGB, ARGB Header (1), Gb LAN, USB 3.1 (1 Type-C, 3 Rear, 4 Front))
- Power Supply(1050 Watt - Standard 80 PLUS Gold, Full Modular)
- Advance Cabling Options(Standard Default Cables)
- Intel Optane Memory Accelerator(None)
- Primary Hard Drive(1 TB WD Black 3D Series SN750 M.2 PCIe NVMe SSD -- Read: 3470MB/s; Write: 3000MB/s)
- Data Hard Drive(None)
- External Optical Drive(None)
- Media Card Reader / Writer(None)
- Sound Card(3D Premium Surround Sound Onboard)
- Network Card(Onboard LAN Network (Gb or 10/100))
- USB Expansion Card(None)
Is this a configuration you chose or a preset configuration?
If you can tweak, it at first glance seems like you could save some on a few parts that are a bit overkill. Like the 360mm AIO, and the 1050W PSU. You would be more than fine with a 280mm radiator and a 750W PSU.
Totally fair approach, we know the RTX 30xx series is coming this year, and now there is word of a couple of different things from AMD. The 970 will hold you back above 1080p until then but nothing wrong with holding on more.
You already own it? Perfect then! 😆
- way overspec on PSU (as mentioned by Vulcano's Assistant)
- I think the triple fan AIO is fine, hardly an elite model but is probably okay
- 2080ti looks like half the cost of your rig
Boo. My case was pretty badly damaged from Amazon. So I can't build it tonight. Return issued...Let's see if the second comes in better!
I'm not even going to ask how much they're charging because I know it's a shitload but I mention it because there is no way a system that expensive should feature a mechanical hard drive. It's just ridiculous.
It doesn't: I think you just got tricked by the "Western Digital Black" branding. That's an SSD.
Yeah, well - I was just testing to see if anyone was paying attention...
And now I'm done embarrassing myself until next time.
Yeah, everything on that partpicker is things I already own, except for the motherboard, ram, and cpu. That's why I want to start slowly buying stuff and then next fall maybe either get the 3080 or whatever, or the 2080 Ti will hopefully drop in price.
Thanks for your reply!
I'm leaning monitor AIO at the moment even though as you said, you have to sacrifice something. In my case, I don't think missing the ability to upgrade is a huge deal if I can find a system that suits me. At least I don't think the software for digital art and video editing increase their system requirements as fast as the latest games tend to.
Another angle I might look into is getting a ""couch gaming" PC setup with one monitor for said work on the desk and then hook it into the big screen as they are in the same room. This is something I thought about just now, actually. But that would have to look "clean" on the outside too and I suppose SFF would be the way to go there. I...or lets be honest, the wife does not want a "tower" in the room. :)
I was thinking about how the system looks on the outside, but now see I could have been more clear. I honestly don't really care how the system looks inside the case (no side windows or lights, please) as long as it's set up smart ofc.
I think if you go desk, then AIO makes more sense. It's like the iMac where the only major cables to deal with are power and ethernet. In terms of concern the major one to look out for would be noise as I'm not certain something with a loud fan wouldn't fail the significant other requirement.
But for a living room then SFF is a viable option, either through the ultra-compact like Ghost Canyon, or, maybe something bigger like the Corsair One. There is a whole industry of parts for SFF builds, some of which are very much more discreet than others, thanks to the ITX formfactor. For example, again, singapore link but hardly unique parts, this one is extremely small and low-bling. Here's a video of Linus doing a SFF build to give an idea of noise and scale.
For mouse and keyboard I want to recommend the Logi series from Logitech. I got gifted a MX Master 3 in December and I am loving the premium feel if it. You can pair it with one of their Logi MX keys and you got yourself a very clean wireless set up.
They are expensive, but you could get one first and the other later. Or both later, you don't want to take away from your monitor and drawing tablet budget, that should be priority of course.
A lot to think about for sure.
I did a quick check and I could get a Ghost Canyon or whatever it's called (NUC8i7HVK) with i7 and a separate Radeon Vega M GH graphics card, 16GB RAM and 1TB SSD for 1468 €, including Win10, assembly and delivery. That means no monitor and other perpherals yet. So pretty much running on the high end of the budget. On the other hand, maybe this would mean saving money from no PS5 shopping this Christmas...
Yeah, I'll check these out. Thanks!
Hades Canyon is actually the old model, where Intel basically designed an all-in-one kit more like a big Raspberry Pi. Ghost Canyon is the new one, where the computer itself (CPU+MB+RAM+outputs) is on a single PCIexpress card, then you put whatever videocard you want on a second slot, and it all goes in a tiny case. It was just announced this month at CES so it's not out yet. It's also not expected to be cheap, but is still a customizeable PC, you can use off the shelf M2 SSDs, your own video card, etc, whereas Hades Canyon is basically locked in except for maybe RAM. I guess you could say Ghost Canyon is an Intel spec standard for a super small SFF PC, as opposed to wiring your own in a case like Linus did. It's probably the easiest self-build you can imagine.
I see. Suppose I'll have to keep my eyes open for when they start selling those.
Welp, down I go this rabbit hole again it seems. It's been a while. The last PC I put together was some with years ago iirc and that was a very budget setup with then old tech.
Edit. Seems like the preorder price for the stock i7 equipped Ghost Canyon is around 1000€, but that is with integrated graphics card, only 128 GB SSD, and only 8 GB of RAM and no OS.
Also that skull is optional, right? RIGHT?
Edit 2. While on the rabbit hole I started thinking maybe a "standard hifi equipment" size case would also work if I put it in the tv stand just like the amp? There would be room because the CD player unit can retire. Just would need to figure out the airflow.
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The difference this time is that Intel has opened this up to OEM vendors. So while the PCIe motherboard cartridge will be the same, the case can vary based on who's selling it. Razer and others have already started showing their own kits; I think Razer has the "biggest" one but undoubtedly the most expensive, while some of the other OEMs will be cheaper. I think only Intel goes with the skull branding.
Yeah, you definitely could find something that fits, there are SFF cases out there shaped to look kind of like an amp. But airflow is always the problem to consider, because they need way more cooling than an amp does. Otherwise they will wheeze like a PS4 Pro, at best.
if any german nerds need a psu https://www.alternate.de/NZXT/Digital-E500-PC-Netzteil/html/product/1450446
So this does not look like an amp nor it is a AIO monitor type setup, but as I said, down the rabbit hole I went.
You guys think something like this would work?
I would hook this up to a desktop monitor and also to a TV as they both are in the same room. Digital art and video editing and sometimes games but not chasing max settings. I am very much out of the loop when it comes to CPUs, but picked Ryzen because after a few minutes of googling it seems like a good budget conscious alternative.
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 2700X 3.7 GHz 8-Core Processor ($164.49 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock Fatal1ty B450 Gaming-ITX/ac Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard ($119.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (1 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($66.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial P1 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($116.00 @ Amazon)
Video Card: PowerColor Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB Red Dragon Video Card ($409.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Node 304 Mini ITX Tower Case ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G3 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($105.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $1073.43
If I could get a similiar setup for the same amount of euros, it would leave around 500€ to shop for a monitor, OS and the peripherals I need.
You guys think something like this would work?
I would hook this up to a desktop monitor and also to a TV as they both are in the same room. Digital art and video editing and sometimes games but not chasing max settings. I am very much out of the loop when it comes to CPUs, but picked Ryzen because after a few minutes of googling it seems like a good budget conscious alternative.
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 2700X 3.7 GHz 8-Core Processor ($164.49 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock Fatal1ty B450 Gaming-ITX/ac Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard ($119.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (1 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($66.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial P1 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($116.00 @ Amazon)
Video Card: PowerColor Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB Red Dragon Video Card ($409.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Node 304 Mini ITX Tower Case ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G3 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($105.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $1073.43
If I could get a similiar setup for the same amount of euros, it would leave around 500€ to shop for a monitor, OS and the peripherals I need.
You'd be better off with 2x8GB RAM than 1x16GB
Also consider getting a better CPU cooler down the line, the Wraith Prism that comes bundled with your CPU is serviceable but sometimes underperforming with overclocks, in my experience
2x8 rather than 1x16, check.
I was thinking about adding a CPU cooler and a replacement case cooler, but to be honest overclocking is something I have never dabbled into and frankly find it something I am not very interested at.
This is what we call a "Shuttle" case after the company that popularized these builds a long time ago. It's awesome how much better they are now. :lol
CPU: The current AMD gen is the 3x00 series. The Ryzen 5 3600 has 2 less cores than the 2700x but basically outperforms it. It's considered the sweet spot for gamer CPUs right now because the 3700x (which is 8 core) is almost double the price. So maybe check some reviews to see if you're okay with using an older gen processor.
Cooling: It's not so much about suggesting another fan for OC so much as a fan with cooler temps can have better benefits in a tight case. You're going to be substantially limited with a small case in terms of specifically what coolers you can use, though. The popular pick (which is listed as compatible) is the Cooler Master Hyper 212, but it's quite high (below the blue line, see link>). Fractal has a page with info on what to look for in size. Here's a TH review of the wraith cooler that comes with the 2700x.
PSU: I love the brand, and modular is the way to go here. It's 150mm so based on the 304 reviews I see, clearance will be tight as the power cables will come out right into the flat back of the video card. It does sound doable but you've only got 2cm clearance. Ironically this is why Fractal also sells their own PSU, the Integra M 650W, which is 140mm instead and also modular. Maybe google search for 304 build reviews or youtubes where they use a double-slot graphics card.
RAM: I agree about 2x just to fit both channels. Ripjaws are a bit tall? Probably not a big deal unless you go for a very fat CPU fan though.
Anyone here using an NZXT G12 on their GPU?
I have an RTX2080/3700X in an ITX build (NZXT H200i case) and I have kitted it out with good fans but temps are still a little too high for my tastes (74c max load-ish?) and I want to see if theres anything further I can do to help lower that.
Its an MSI Ventus RTX2080, so only a 2 fan card. Which is why I am thinking of trying out the G12. What AIO would anyone recommend and where would the best spot for the radiator be? I have two front 140mm intakes, a rear 120mm exhaust and a top 140mm exhaust. Im guessing swap one of the 140mm front intakes?
I have an RTX2080/3700X in an ITX build (NZXT H200i case) and I have kitted it out with good fans but temps are still a little too high for my tastes (74c max load-ish?) and I want to see if theres anything further I can do to help lower that.
Its an MSI Ventus RTX2080, so only a 2 fan card. Which is why I am thinking of trying out the G12. What AIO would anyone recommend and where would the best spot for the radiator be? I have two front 140mm intakes, a rear 120mm exhaust and a top 140mm exhaust. Im guessing swap one of the 140mm front intakes?
so i've been using my monitor for a few days now (asus vg27aq). the performance is incredible but there is quite a bit of IPS-glow at the bottom edges. more so the left. it makes the screen look a little warmer than the rest from a normal sitting position. if i look at the corner straight on or if i step away from my desk it evens out. also, this is only really noticeable when viewing a mostly white/dark background. during games etc it is completely gone. i only notice it if the bottom + top of the screen are the exact same colour.
i know it's an IPS panel and IPS panels get IPS glow and if i get it replaced it will very likely still a noticeable amount of IPS glow. Otherwise the monitor is perfect! no dead pixels that i can notice. viewing a moving image doesn't give me any kind of "dirty screen" effect. there is zero blacklight bleed. the overall uniformity (except ips glow) is great. the VRR doesn't bug out (my old Gsync did this). and i'm not getting constant artifacting when using a DisplayPort cable.
I do admit it's bothering me a little but i think i could get used to it...and i know if i get it replaced it could be worse (dead pixels, etc). should i just keep the monitor i've got? how much IPS glow is too much?
i know it's an IPS panel and IPS panels get IPS glow and if i get it replaced it will very likely still a noticeable amount of IPS glow. Otherwise the monitor is perfect! no dead pixels that i can notice. viewing a moving image doesn't give me any kind of "dirty screen" effect. there is zero blacklight bleed. the overall uniformity (except ips glow) is great. the VRR doesn't bug out (my old Gsync did this). and i'm not getting constant artifacting when using a DisplayPort cable.
I do admit it's bothering me a little but i think i could get used to it...and i know if i get it replaced it could be worse (dead pixels, etc). should i just keep the monitor i've got? how much IPS glow is too much?
Seconding this post- curious to hear anyone's experience with Kraken g12
IPS glow is unavoidable, it's just a matter of how much. As long as it's not excessive across all corners just live with it.
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