Don't know if this deserves it's own thread but it's PCish. I am being inundated with "thank you for signing up" emails in my gmail. Like 30 emails every minute. What the hell is happening.
I have been thinking about getting a PC after not having one (besides my work laptop I can't install any software on) for a few years. I want the setup to look as clean as possible with as little wires as possible. I like the idea of all-in-one setups, but not completely averse to a more traditional setup if it looks clean enough. No Macs because I have never gotten into that ecosystem and don't feel like taking the plunge. I might want to hook it into a 4K TV we are also getting at some point. Needs to have enough power for digital art and video editing, but not for latest 1 person shooters at max settings.
I nuked it, though, and did a clean install. My Windows 10 license was tied to my hotmail account, so after a quick hardware verification, Windows didn't care that the license was on totally new hardware.
Any performance advantages with the former having the module vs certified freesync monitors? The LG 27GL850 is on Nvidias G-Sync monitor list.
I'm sure somebody here will correct me if I'm wrong, but Windows Home license should transfer, but Windows OEM will not? At least that's how I understood it.
Thanks! It seems to be pretty much the same monitor, I'll check out the availability.
As I understood it, below 30fps, you're in Vsync mode regardless. G-Sync with the module kicks in at anything above 30, while freesync typically only kicks in at 40+? With the upper and lower end defined by the monitor. There is some other weird stuff if you go over limit (like, 144hz+).
Is any of that a problem or cause for issues? Really annoying VRR wasn't standardized and became a format war like everything else, HD DVD vs Blu Ray, HDR10 vs Dolby Vision, etc
Not really, because Nvidia started letting in various freesync models to be used in Gsync mode. You're still range limited, but it works so long as you use the override and have a GTX 10 series or better. They effectively lost their own war by requiring expensive custom chips. Long term, HDMI 2.1 VRR and DisplayPort 2.0's mode should basically put the nail in the coffin.
For now, module Gsync is the best experience, but whether you can actually notice the difference overall Is a question mark. Toms Hardware ran a piece last year where the difference was negligible. A lot of the advantage used to be that anyone could ship a free sync model, so you'd end up with kind of absurd ranges like 45-75hz. But things have improved across the board since then. Still, the advantage to Nvidia is simply that you can't break spec. So it depends what monitor you buy.
Don't know if this deserves it's own thread but it's PCish. I am being inundated with "thank you for signing up" emails in my gmail. Like 30 emails every minute. What the hell is happening.
As a side note, really dont see a huge performance difference from an fx8350@ 4ghz to a ryzen 2600 at 3.9ghz, even with much faster ram. Still, it's nice to not basically have a space heater coming out of my tower.
I'm looking for some advice on what direction to go.
I have been thinking about getting a PC after not having one (besides my work laptop I can't install any software on) for a few years. I want the setup to look as clean as possible with as little wires as possible.
Hey guys, quick question...
A colleague of mine bought an RX 590 back in December with the promotion for getting two games (I'm pretty sure they were Borderlands 3 or Ghost Recon?).
He is finally unpacking the stuff and building his PC this week but he is not finding any information anywhere about the promo. Where should he be looking for? Is it supposed to come directly from AMD or from the retailer?
All right thanksThe retailer should give you a code, which you then redeem on AMD's website. Tell him to check is receipt, it was on the receipt when I bought my 3800x in December.
Has anyone here flashed a 5700 firmware to 5700xt firmware? Do you have any resources/testimonials about the process, or any opinion about the +/- of flashing the firmware? Ty!
Silly question time! It's been YEARS since I've built my PC from scratch...
Z390-A MOBO
Two questions...
1. The manual indicates that if I use the M.2 slot below the processor, it disables one of the SATA ports. However, if I use the M.2 slot hidden under that slender accent by the RGB square thing on the bottom, it doesn't. So I suspect I should be using that for my M.2 to avoid eating up one my SATA ports, right? Any downside to this?
2. How do I install Windows via USB with this? And I don't remember, but I will need to change the boot order to boot the M.2 before the SATA ports, correct?
Sorry for the silly questions, just don't want to mess it up!
wait for 10th gen part. They should come soon, around summer, and the new i7 10700k is a slightly better 9900k that will cost a lot less. It makes no sense to buy right now and you are waiting for your graphic card anyway, right? why even bother buying now.
Your current PC is midrange, and while the Core i9 9900K is the best performer, it also only makes sense to pare it with the best graphics card, the RTX 2080 Ti (which is 1200$). If you're looking to transition to high end, the i7-9700k looks good enough in terms of clock speeds for FPS and overclocking, which should be pared with at least an RTX 2070 Super. I'd imagine you're playing with a 1080p screen with a GTX 970, which means you should also upgrade your monitor/TV. For gaming, 16 GBs of DDR4 RAM is more than enough, and 32 GB is only justifiable for productivity (other than audio production).
And if you're waiting a couple of months to upgrade the GPU, you might as well just wait to upgrade everything until Ampere is announced.
Source: Best Gaming CPUs for 2020 - Tom's Hardware
EDIT: Edited the part about the 9900K
The pieces all seem fine? 750W might be overkill unless you're going to a 2080, but the parts are all reasonable. The only other part that stands out as probably more than you need is the RAM, you could find cheaper options there unless you're really psyched to go RGB.
It's a bit of an awkward time right now, AMD parts are better for the buck in many cases, and the X570 chipset is the only one to support PCIe 4.0 SSDs, but its not like you need Gen4 to have a good PC experience either. Its just the most future thinking at the moment. Beyond that there are other things just trickling in, like USB 3.2 Gen 2 and USB-C ports on cases (Motherboards are pretty good with the latter, at least in that most new ones seem to have a single port)
Is this a configuration you chose or a preset configuration?What do you guys think of this build from iBuyPower? I'm about to jump
- Case(Pure Base 500 Tempered Glass Gaming Case - Black)
- Processor(Intel® Core™ i9-9900KF Processor (8x 3.60GHz/16MB L3 Cache))
- iBUYPOWER PowerDrive(None)
- Processor Cooling(Asetek 690LS 360mm Liquid Cooling System - Z390)
- Memory(16 GB [8 GB x2] DDR4-3200 Memory Module - Certified Major Brand Gaming Memory)
- Video Card(NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti - 11GB GDDR6 (VR-Ready)
- SLI Bridge(None)
- Motherboard(MSI MPG Z390 GAMING PRO CARBON -- RGB, ARGB Header (1), Gb LAN, USB 3.1 (1 Type-C, 3 Rear, 4 Front))
- Power Supply(1050 Watt - Standard 80 PLUS Gold, Full Modular)
- Advance Cabling Options(Standard Default Cables)
- Intel Optane Memory Accelerator(None)
- Primary Hard Drive(1 TB WD Black 3D Series SN750 M.2 PCIe NVMe SSD -- Read: 3470MB/s; Write: 3000MB/s)
- Data Hard Drive(None)
- External Optical Drive(None)
- Media Card Reader / Writer(None)
- Sound Card(3D Premium Surround Sound Onboard)
- Network Card(Onboard LAN Network (Gb or 10/100))
- USB Expansion Card(None)
I'm waiting for the GPU because financially, I can't buy everything at once, so I was planning on buying piece by piece and then building this summer, while adding the gpu at a later date.
I honestly have no idea why I bought that power supply back in 2015, but it's the one I went with haha.
- Case(Pure Base 500 Tempered Glass Gaming Case - Black)
- Processor(Intel® Core™ i9-9900KF Processor (8x 3.60GHz/16MB L3 Cache))
- Processor Cooling(Asetek 690LS 360mm Liquid Cooling System - Z390)
- Memory(16 GB [8 GB x2] DDR4-3200 Memory Module - Certified Major Brand Gaming Memory)
- Video Card(NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti - 11GB GDDR6 (VR-Ready)
- Motherboard(MSI MPG Z390 GAMING PRO CARBON -- RGB, ARGB Header (1), Gb LAN, USB 3.1 (1 Type-C, 3 Rear, 4 Front))
- Power Supply(1050 Watt - Standard 80 PLUS Gold, Full Modular)
- Primary Hard Drive(1 TB WD Black 3D Series SN750 M.2 PCIe NVMe SSD -- Read: 3470MB/s; Write: 3000MB/s)
What do you guys think of this build from iBuyPower? I'm about to jump
- Case(Pure Base 500 Tempered Glass Gaming Case - Black)
- Processor(Intel® Core™ i9-9900KF Processor (8x 3.60GHz/16MB L3 Cache))
- iBUYPOWER PowerDrive(None)
- Processor Cooling(Asetek 690LS 360mm Liquid Cooling System - Z390)
- Memory(16 GB [8 GB x2] DDR4-3200 Memory Module - Certified Major Brand Gaming Memory)
- Video Card(NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti - 11GB GDDR6 (VR-Ready)
- SLI Bridge(None)
- Motherboard(MSI MPG Z390 GAMING PRO CARBON -- RGB, ARGB Header (1), Gb LAN, USB 3.1 (1 Type-C, 3 Rear, 4 Front))
- Power Supply(1050 Watt - Standard 80 PLUS Gold, Full Modular)
- Advance Cabling Options(Standard Default Cables)
- Intel Optane Memory Accelerator(None)
- Primary Hard Drive(1 TB WD Black 3D Series SN750 M.2 PCIe NVMe SSD -- Read: 3470MB/s; Write: 3000MB/s)
- Data Hard Drive(None)
- External Optical Drive(None)
- Media Card Reader / Writer(None)
- Sound Card(3D Premium Surround Sound Onboard)
- Network Card(Onboard LAN Network (Gb or 10/100))
- USB Expansion Card(None)
I'm not even going to ask how much they're charging because I know it's a shitload but I mention it because there is no way a system that expensive should feature a mechanical hard drive. It's just ridiculous.
It doesn't: I think you just got tricked by the "Western Digital Black" branding. That's an SSD.
Totally fair approach, we know the RTX 30xx series is coming this year, and now there is word of a couple of different things from AMD. The 970 will hold you back above 1080p until then but nothing wrong with holding on more.
You already own it? Perfect then! 😆
Most cases now have a panel behind which all your cables will sit and you just feed the motherboard , GPU, etc. cables in. Some also have a power supply shroud built in so you won't even see the cables coming out of the PSU as the entire thing is hidden. You can add cable combs to the cables that are coming in for an extra neat look. I'd also go with a M.2 disk for storage so you can avoid the power and connector cables for SATA drives.
Thanks for your reply! I was thinking about how the system looks on the outside, but now see I could have been more clear. I honestly don't really care how the system looks inside the case (no side windows or lights, please) as long as it's set up smart ofc.
For mouse and keyboard I want to recommend the Logi series from Logitech. I got gifted a MX Master 3 in December and I am loving the premium feel if it. You can pair it with one of their Logi MX keys and you got yourself a very clean wireless set up.... I want the setup to look as clean as possible with as little wires as possible.
Need monitor, mouse, keyboard, drawing pad and audio output of some sort, but can generally shop for those myself.
I think if you go desk, then AIO makes more sense. It's like the iMac where the only major cables to deal with are power and ethernet. In terms of concern the major one to look out for would be noise as I'm not certain something with a loud fan wouldn't fail the significant other requirement.
But for a living room then SFF is a viable option, either through the ultra-compact like Ghost Canyon, or, maybe something bigger like the Corsair One. There is a whole industry of parts for SFF builds, some of which are very much more discreet than others, thanks to the ITX formfactor. For example, again, singapore link but hardly unique parts, this one is extremely small and low-bling. Here's a video of Linus doing a SFF build to give an idea of noise and scale.
For mouse and keyboard I want to recommend the Logi series from Logitech. I got gifted a MX Master 3 in December and I am loving the premium feel if it. You can pair it with one of their Logi MX keys and you got yourself a very clean wireless set up.
They are expensive, but you could get one first and the other later. Or both later, you don't want to take away from your monitor and drawing tablet budget, that should be priority of course.
I did a quick check and I could get a Ghost Canyon or whatever it's called (NUC8i7HVK) with i7 and a separate Radeon Vega M GH graphics card, 16GB RAM and 1TB SSD for 1468 €, including Win10, assembly and delivery. That means no monitor and other perpherals yet. So pretty much running on the high end of the budget. On the other hand, maybe this would mean saving money from no PS5 shopping this Christmas...
Hades Canyon is actually the old model, where Intel basically designed an all-in-one kit more like a big Raspberry Pi. Ghost Canyon is the new one, where the computer itself (CPU+MB+RAM+outputs) is on a single PCIexpress card, then you put whatever videocard you want on a second slot, and it all goes in a tiny case. It was just announced this month at CES so it's not out yet. It's also not expected to be cheap, but is still a customizeable PC, you can use off the shelf M2 SSDs, your own video card, etc, whereas Hades Canyon is basically locked in except for maybe RAM. I guess you could say Ghost Canyon is an Intel spec standard for a super small SFF PC, as opposed to wiring your own in a case like Linus did. It's probably the easiest self-build you can imagine.
Edit 2. While on the rabbit hole I started thinking maybe a "standard hifi equipment" size case would also work if I put it in the tv stand just like the amp? There would be room because the CD player unit can retire. Just would need to figure out the airflow.
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (1 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($66.99 @ Newegg)
So this does not look like an amp nor it is a AIO monitor type setup, but as I said, down the rabbit hole I went.
You guys think something like this would work?
I would hook this up to a desktop monitor and also to a TV as they both are in the same room. Digital art and video editing and sometimes games but not chasing max settings. I am very much out of the loop when it comes to CPUs, but picked Ryzen because after a few minutes of googling it seems like a good budget conscious alternative.
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 2700X 3.7 GHz 8-Core Processor ($164.49 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock Fatal1ty B450 Gaming-ITX/ac Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard ($119.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (1 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($66.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial P1 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($116.00 @ Amazon)
Video Card: PowerColor Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB Red Dragon Video Card ($409.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Node 304 Mini ITX Tower Case ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G3 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($105.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $1073.43
If I could get a similiar setup for the same amount of euros, it would leave around 500€ to shop for a monitor, OS and the peripherals I need.
You'd be better off with 2x8GB RAM than 1x16GB
Also consider getting a better CPU cooler down the line, the Wraith Prism that comes bundled with your CPU is serviceable but sometimes underperforming with overclocks, in my experience
Anyone here using an NZXT G12 on their GPU?
I have an RTX2080/3700X in an ITX build (NZXT H200i case) and I have kitted it out with good fans but temps are still a little too high for my tastes (74c max load-ish?) and I want to see if theres anything further I can do to help lower that.
Its an MSI Ventus RTX2080, so only a 2 fan card. Which is why I am thinking of trying out the G12. What AIO would anyone recommend and where would the best spot for the radiator be? I have two front 140mm intakes, a rear 120mm exhaust and a top 140mm exhaust. Im guessing swap one of the 140mm front intakes?
IPS glow is unavoidable, it's just a matter of how much. As long as it's not excessive across all corners just live with it.so i've been using my monitor for a few days now (asus vg27aq). the performance is incredible but there is quite a bit of IPS-glow at the bottom edges. more so the left. it makes the screen look a little warmer than the rest from a normal sitting position. if i look at the corner straight on or if i step away from my desk it evens out. also, this is only really noticeable when viewing a mostly white/dark background. during games etc it is completely gone. i only notice it if the bottom + top of the screen are the exact same colour.
i know it's an IPS panel and IPS panels get IPS glow and if i get it replaced it will very likely still a noticeable amount of IPS glow. Otherwise the monitor is perfect! no dead pixels that i can notice. viewing a moving image doesn't give me any kind of "dirty screen" effect. there is zero blacklight bleed. the overall uniformity (except ips glow) is great. the VRR doesn't bug out (my old Gsync did this). and i'm not getting constant artifacting when using a DisplayPort cable.
I do admit it's bothering me a little but i think i could get used to it...and i know if i get it replaced it could be worse (dead pixels, etc). should i just keep the monitor i've got? how much IPS glow is too much?