I had the same rebooting issues and it turned out to be the power supply, despite voltages and temps all looking totally fine. G
-
Ever wanted an RSS feed of all your favorite gaming news sites? Go check out our new Gaming Headlines feed! Read more about it here.
-
We have made minor adjustments to how the search bar works on ResetEra. You can read about the changes here.
The PC Builders Thread ("I Need a New PC") v2
- Thread starter Soda
- Start date
- Status
I had the same rebooting issues and it turned out to be the power supply, despite voltages and temps all looking totally fine. G
May I ask what PSU you had and what you replaced it with?
I have a Corsair CX 750M. Its definitely on the cheaper side, but surely it should be enough, right?
Edit: I've done 3 rounds of Uniengine Super position in 8k, GPU at 100% the entire time, no crashes. Played Rising Storm 2 for almost half hour, no crashes. Seems weird only one game would cause my whole PC to reboot.
Last edited:
That's something the newest Radeon driver has made itself known for.
Hey, all. Looking to build a dual monitor setup for After Effects / Photoshop / Illustrator and some gaming. Thinking of going IPS for both monitors and at least one 144Hz for gaming purposes. I'm looking to spend around $1,800. Is this doable?
Not sure about the beep, but here's what I found online about it, related to newest drivers it seems. If you scroll down further in the thread it suggests disabling anti lag and/or chill. Also try running the game full screen but windowed, not full screen only.
Report back if you can...
EDIT: someone also suggests the following:TLDR: Try disabling Radeon Enhanced Sync under Gaming, then Graphics.
So, whatever is causing my issue with rebooting has to be related to Coh2. I've never had a game cause a complete system reboot, but nothing else is causing it. GTAV runs like a dream, Rising Storm 2 runs great, Battlefield V runs awesome, and all the benchmarks run on loop with no issues. Seeing as this is my nephew's PC and he'll likely never ay that game, I guess I'll leave it alone. I hate for it to pop-up in some other game, but, I'm only having the issue with that specific game. Very weird.
Finished my new build! Should hopefully last me all through next gen (with a GPU upgrade in 2-3 years).
Alright, I'm finally ready to build my new small form factor home theater PC! Would folks be willing to review my build?
Note: I'm intentionally withholding buying a GPU until later next year when there are some deals. This will eventually be meant for gaming, but for the next few months I'm just going to use it as a HTPC with Intel integrated graphics:
Case: Node 202
CPU: Intel Core i5-9600k
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L9i low profile cooler
Motherboard: ASRock Z390M
RAM: 16GB Corsair Vengence LPX (low profile for small case)
Power supply: Corsair SFX 450W (I'm not planning to overclock so this should be more than enough)
Case fans: Corsair ML120
Hard drive: Samsung 970 EVO NVMe 500GB SSD
Note: I'm intentionally withholding buying a GPU until later next year when there are some deals. This will eventually be meant for gaming, but for the next few months I'm just going to use it as a HTPC with Intel integrated graphics:
Case: Node 202
CPU: Intel Core i5-9600k
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L9i low profile cooler
Motherboard: ASRock Z390M
RAM: 16GB Corsair Vengence LPX (low profile for small case)
Power supply: Corsair SFX 450W (I'm not planning to overclock so this should be more than enough)
Case fans: Corsair ML120
Hard drive: Samsung 970 EVO NVMe 500GB SSD
Sounds like memory instability. Try running prime 95, and occ.
If it crashes it's a memory issue.
Now after reading it definitely sounds like memory. Run it at default not xmp profile and then re-run those games that make it crash.
If it doesn't crash you have your answer.
I have the XPG Gammix S11 version, which basically means it comes with the heat-spreader attached to the drive vs separate.
It seems to perform alright. I can't tell any difference though between my old Samsung 960 Evo 256 GB and the new 2TB Adata Gammix S11 one though.
CrystalDiskMark rates it at what I would expect from an NVMe drive.
Code:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
CrystalDiskMark 6.0.2 x64 (C) 2007-2018 hiyohiyo
Crystal Dew World : https://crystalmark.info/
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
* MB/s = 1,000,000 bytes/s [SATA/600 = 600,000,000 bytes/s]
* KB = 1000 bytes, KiB = 1024 bytes
Sequential Read (Q= 32,T= 1) : 3254.261 MB/s
Sequential Write (Q= 32,T= 1) : 3200.535 MB/s
Random Read 4KiB (Q= 8,T= 8) : 1468.054 MB/s [ 358411.6 IOPS]
Random Write 4KiB (Q= 8,T= 8) : 1446.360 MB/s [ 353115.2 IOPS]
Random Read 4KiB (Q= 32,T= 1) : 547.373 MB/s [ 133636.0 IOPS]
Random Write 4KiB (Q= 32,T= 1) : 407.409 MB/s [ 99465.1 IOPS]
Random Read 4KiB (Q= 1,T= 1) : 70.066 MB/s [ 17106.0 IOPS]
Random Write 4KiB (Q= 1,T= 1) : 204.796 MB/s [ 49999.0 IOPS]
Test : 1024 MiB [C: 6.9% (117.7/1708.3 GiB)] (x5) [Interval=5 sec]
Date : 2019/12/21 1:43:18
OS : Windows 10 Professional [10.0 Build 18363] (x64)
It probably is, you might have to sacrifice some color accuracy/fidelity/resolution/size on the monitors.
I assume you are aware that low profile memory is not needed for a small case, but more for the CPU heat sink.
Despite a 450W PSU probably being plenty, you might consider operating noise of the fan of the PSU. While the Corsair SFX series is semi passive until certain loads, it's a percentage of their maximum output when the fan turns on. That will happen sooner with a lower powered PSU. Then again, it probably won't happen during media consumpution and only when you eventually add a GPU and that will probably have louder fans under load anyway.
You case fans might not be the best in terms of performance/noise.
Ill try those tests. I actually rebooted my PC to take off XMP and it appears it automatically turned it off sometime before, so, that's weird. I guess if something is faulty, memory would be the easiest the deal with. I'll report back after these tests.
1800 for the whole work+game PC and 2 IPS monitors? Or just monitors?
For the former, will have to skimp on components but possible with smaller monitors, less than top end GPU. Latter - sure, with nice monitors.
When you update bios it reverts to default values timings.
When memory can't hold stable, it will down clock to a default speed which usually is 2133, 2400.
If that's what happened it is your memory not liking xmp profile or your motherboard not liking that speed in xmp.
So check ur motherboard site, check to see the QVL list for accepted memory. Check bios version as well.
Yeah, that was probably it, then. Which means it's still gonna crash with XMP on or off.
Really not sure what else to do.
Running the prime95 memory test and so far so good.
Edit: 35 minutes in and no errors detected.
Starting to think this is a CoH2 only issue.
When CoH2 starts, it tries to show that Radeon Software overlay box, except, its all glitched out and garbled. Transitioning through the menu to set a custom match causes the menu to dip to 15 fps and lag pretty bad, does not do that on my machine with a intel 8700k/1070.
I've tried 8 games and two CPU/GPU benchmark utilities as well as this memory test, no problems whatsoever on anything else.
Last edited:
So I just got my MSI B450 Tomahawk Max motherboard... and one of those spring screws wasn't even attached, which mean this part(don't exactly know what it is), does not hold tight and can easily be moved around with my finger. Can't seem to be able to put the screw back in its place since nothing can hold it below like the other screw.
I really don't want to have to return the motherboard, so... how dangerous is it to leave it like that? I doubt it'll move once my desktop is set up, but it's not holding tighly to the board, is there a risk of malfunctioning/overheating?
Edit : Screw(no pun intended) it, not taking any chance. I'm gonna ask for a refund & return from Amazon. I'm sure it was just bad luck, but I'm now hesitant to re-purchase the same motherboard.
I really don't want to have to return the motherboard, so... how dangerous is it to leave it like that? I doubt it'll move once my desktop is set up, but it's not holding tighly to the board, is there a risk of malfunctioning/overheating?
Edit : Screw(no pun intended) it, not taking any chance. I'm gonna ask for a refund & return from Amazon. I'm sure it was just bad luck, but I'm now hesitant to re-purchase the same motherboard.
Last edited:
So I just got my MSI B450 Tomahawk Max motherboard... and one of those spring screws wasn't even attached, which mean this part(don't exactly know what it is), does not hold tight and can easily be moved around with my finger. Can't seem to be able to put the screw back in its place since nothing can hold it below like the other screw.
I really don't want to have to return the motherboard, so... how dangerous is it to leave it like that? I doubt it'll move once my desktop is set up, but it's not holding tighly to the board, is there a risk of malfunctioning/overheating?
Edit : Screw(no pun intended) it, not taking any chance. I'm gonna ask for a refund & return from Amazon. I'm sure it was just bad luck, but I'm now hesitant to re-purchase the same motherboard.
Yeah, as you decided yourself return it.
And don't worry about repurchasing that mainboard. Chances are incredibly slim that this same issue is present on any other mainboard. Well, unless it was an issue in production of a certain batch of units and you get one those again ^^
I've decided to finally build my first PC, and I need help.
(I was going to do this three-four years ago, but then there was a wild discount HP off-the-shelf deal that people may remember—a 6700K and 980Ti packed into a small, shitty case with stock parts for a weirdly low price. People fretted that the whole thing would catch on fire, but it's trucked away with zero problems for nearly four years and served me well.)
Here's what I'm currently looking at. For context, I have a 1440p IPS monitor that I love (despite no 144fps and no G-Sync), this is a pure gaming machine (no streaming, video editing, etc.), I want it to be unobtrusive and run quiet, and price isn't a huge concern (though I'd like to keep it under $2K and not be frivolous).
CPU: Intel Core i9-9900K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($489.99 @ B&H)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($89.95 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z390 AORUS PRO WIFI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($173.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($77.98 @ Amazon)
Storage: *HP EX920 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($114.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: *EVGA GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB BLACK GAMING Video Card ($479.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Design Define R6 USB-C Blackout ATX Mid Tower Case ($140.03 @ Walmart)
Power Supply: be quiet! Straight Power 11 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($127.90 @ Amazon)
I think most of this is fairly straightforward, but let me know if anything looks wild and crazy. I'm pretty committed to the 9900K as a futureproofing measure, but I'm open to being told it's an unnecessary jump over the 9700K. Ditto the AORUS board: some stuff I've read and watched suggest the VRM is far superior to the competition. The M.2 is from a parametric filter; I'm going to harvest a 1TB mechanical drive from my existing PC.
My real question is it workable to hang on to my 980Ti and slap it in this until the next Nvidia cards arrive? I know it would be a huge constraint on what the rest of the build can do in the short term, but I could save the $500 for a 2070 Super and put it towards a 30xx by summer? Right?
(I was going to do this three-four years ago, but then there was a wild discount HP off-the-shelf deal that people may remember—a 6700K and 980Ti packed into a small, shitty case with stock parts for a weirdly low price. People fretted that the whole thing would catch on fire, but it's trucked away with zero problems for nearly four years and served me well.)
Here's what I'm currently looking at. For context, I have a 1440p IPS monitor that I love (despite no 144fps and no G-Sync), this is a pure gaming machine (no streaming, video editing, etc.), I want it to be unobtrusive and run quiet, and price isn't a huge concern (though I'd like to keep it under $2K and not be frivolous).
CPU: Intel Core i9-9900K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($489.99 @ B&H)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($89.95 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z390 AORUS PRO WIFI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($173.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($77.98 @ Amazon)
Storage: *HP EX920 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($114.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: *EVGA GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB BLACK GAMING Video Card ($479.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Design Define R6 USB-C Blackout ATX Mid Tower Case ($140.03 @ Walmart)
Power Supply: be quiet! Straight Power 11 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($127.90 @ Amazon)
I think most of this is fairly straightforward, but let me know if anything looks wild and crazy. I'm pretty committed to the 9900K as a futureproofing measure, but I'm open to being told it's an unnecessary jump over the 9700K. Ditto the AORUS board: some stuff I've read and watched suggest the VRM is far superior to the competition. The M.2 is from a parametric filter; I'm going to harvest a 1TB mechanical drive from my existing PC.
My real question is it workable to hang on to my 980Ti and slap it in this until the next Nvidia cards arrive? I know it would be a huge constraint on what the rest of the build can do in the short term, but I could save the $500 for a 2070 Super and put it towards a 30xx by summer? Right?
If you are going to wait for new GPUs you might as well postpone the rest of your build until then. The GPU will likely be by far the biggest change you would actualy notice, aside from it possible running much quieter. But aside from that it would be a viable solution.
I'd go for either the Define-C or the Meshify C, as you apparently don't use an optical disc drive or custom water cooling, there is little benefit to the much larger R6.
You could also take your RAM from your current PC. I would, in interest of noise consider leaving the small mechanical HDD behind and going all SSD for storage. But I'll grant you, if you only use the PC when gaming ,the mechanical HDD is probably not going to be louder than the GPU-Fan.
I'd also buy a PSU with a semi-passive fan, here is an overview of those available.
Thanks. The quieter PSU and Meshify-C are great ideas.
The GPU issue is kind of a struggle for me. My plan was always to skip the 10xx cards and upgrade to 20xx, but Nvidia made that messy. I like the 2070 Super, but I also don't want to be tempted into buying a new video card twice in 18 months or something crazy.
It's imo kinda unwarranted to go Intel if you aren't getting a 2080Ti. Their only advantage is putting out a few more frames when CPU bound in games - if you're going to GPU bound yourself with a lesser graphics card you've just got a hot, expensive, power-hungry CPU that's slower at everything else for no gaming benefit.
There's no value in a 1TB mechanical HDD now, really.
Why 9900K over Ryzen 3700X? I'd rather save that money and put it towards a 2080S or save it for next gen.
Looks fine otherwise.
Mine were loose on that same motherboard. I pushed down to retighten them, but it worried me.So I just got my MSI B450 Tomahawk Max motherboard... and one of those spring screws wasn't even attached, which mean this part(don't exactly know what it is), does not hold tight and can easily be moved around with my finger. Can't seem to be able to put the screw back in its place since nothing can hold it below like the other screw.
I really don't want to have to return the motherboard, so... how dangerous is it to leave it like that? I doubt it'll move once my desktop is set up, but it's not holding tighly to the board, is there a risk of malfunctioning/overheating?
Edit : Screw(no pun intended) it, not taking any chance. I'm gonna ask for a refund & return from Amazon. I'm sure it was just bad luck, but I'm now hesitant to re-purchase the same motherboard.
Absolutely, and that's what I'd do too. You don't need a new video card until you're playing a brand new, demanding AAA game anyways.
because it's the best gaming processor? It should have a longer use life than any of the other core parts on the list, including a 2080 super.
I have the same case (R6) and went with it over the others suggested simply because of sound isolation. Extremely happy with that. It's bigger than I need but whatever, big or small the footprint is basically the same spot on my desk. Sound proofing is everything to me, and it sounds like a big priority for you too.
I have no idea other than it's for Dell Alienware 15 R4 laptop. What I wanted to know is the quality of the SSDs, a d whather or not I can justify the budget spent vs. quality on average normal usage.
I would imagine the sound isolation to be the same in the Define C, or for that matter the Mini-C or the Nano-C. But in general an argument can be (and has been made) that better airflow and slower fans might actually be less noisy than a sound isolated case with faster spinning fans.
i'm having such a nightmare trying to find a monitor.
i want a 27" 1440p 144hz monitor but it seems like every monitor has some kind of quality control issue based on reviews.
i bought a Dell one a while back (S2716DG). the screen was very warm on the left side and it really distracted me. also the black levels were bad and there was a lot of banding. sometimes the screen would split in half. right down the middle of the screen it would split and everything was misaligned. it was annoying to keep refreshing my drivers or turning the screen on + off.
what would you recommend? it's obviously mostly for gaming but i do some photo/video editing so i want good quality. i currently have an IPS panel. the dell i bought was a TN panel but i was impressed with the colours on it. it's much better than my old TN panel. if it's not g sync then it needs to work with my nvidia card. i was considering buying the FreeSync version of this monitor but i don't know what to do.
i want a 27" 1440p 144hz monitor but it seems like every monitor has some kind of quality control issue based on reviews.
i bought a Dell one a while back (S2716DG). the screen was very warm on the left side and it really distracted me. also the black levels were bad and there was a lot of banding. sometimes the screen would split in half. right down the middle of the screen it would split and everything was misaligned. it was annoying to keep refreshing my drivers or turning the screen on + off.
what would you recommend? it's obviously mostly for gaming but i do some photo/video editing so i want good quality. i currently have an IPS panel. the dell i bought was a TN panel but i was impressed with the colours on it. it's much better than my old TN panel. if it's not g sync then it needs to work with my nvidia card. i was considering buying the FreeSync version of this monitor but i don't know what to do.
Last edited:
At least in my country 9900K is marginally better at gaming for a significantly higher price (nearly 200 euro difference) which makes it not worth buying. If you game at anything above 1080p the difference shrinks even more as games become more GPU bound.
What specific model you got?
Anywho for SSDs, you're not paying for performance after a certain point, you're just paying for most storage. 1TB can be found for around $100, 2TB for around $200, 4TB for around $450.
NVMe SSDs are faster than their non-NVMe counterparts, but unless you're doing media creation you're not going to take full advantage of the drive.
And what do you mean "quality on average normal usage"? SSDs have come a long way since their inception if you're worried about your future drive dying.
I got a 2200g , the ryzen 2700 is on sale i was thinking on upgrade it , i usualy play on the xbox one s, does the 2700 going to be for next gen too?
Have the freesync 2719DGF and love it. Reddit seems to love it as well, and my experience differed from some reviews I saw. Maybe because of a later build date, who knows. Works perfectly with my nvidia card.
I set my monitor brightness lower on the monitor controls and then used nvidia control panel to adjust everything properly. Took a while to tune it but works great. Highly recommend it.
the 2700 cpu will be a big step up from 2200g (I have experience going from 2200g to 2600x), but I strongly recommend you sell the rx570 and try to pick up a 1660ti or 1660 super or even a 5700 if you are gaming at 1080p and you want to play next gen games.
oh yeah those are excellent and in high demand too, tried to buy one on a buy/sell and they'd be selling for close to list price and selling very quickly.
cool thanks bro, yeah i was thinking next year upgrade the gpu
I just upgraded from ryzen 1600/ddr4 2666mhz/1070 to ryzen 3600/ddr4 3200mhz/5700 XT
I bought a 1440p/144Hz monitor at the beginning of the year, and the 1070 was starting to struggle to mantain 60 fps in last titles, while the 1600 and 2666Mhz ram has never been a good pair for >60fps gaming.
This upgrade should be plenty for end-gen/cross-gen period (till 2022/2023 I guess).
I bought a 1440p/144Hz monitor at the beginning of the year, and the 1070 was starting to struggle to mantain 60 fps in last titles, while the 1600 and 2666Mhz ram has never been a good pair for >60fps gaming.
This upgrade should be plenty for end-gen/cross-gen period (till 2022/2023 I guess).
Last edited:
Dell Alienware 15 R4. I don't think there are different variations of the same model.
I see. I just need to buy more storage. I need anything above 100GB, as it's what I have for my primary storage media inside the laptop.
I'd be interested to know how you get on. I'm on a Ryzen 2700X/32 GB 3200mhz RAM/GTX 1070 and thinking of upgrading to a 5700XT if I spot a deal that tempts me.
I made the jump to a 1440p/144hz this past week. I was aming for the moon (27"), but I ended up on Mars (32"). My GPU is certainly feeling the stress with some games though.
On monitor shopping, since November it's seems like best buy (Canada) has been marking down the prices of most their 1440p/144hz monitors — Asus and LG especially always show no stock any BB store in Greater Toronto Area in store here. Amazon is all third party sellers and I ain't buying a monitor from them. Also, why are LG free sync monitors so damn do scarce?
On monitor shopping, since November it's seems like best buy (Canada) has been marking down the prices of most their 1440p/144hz monitors — Asus and LG especially always show no stock any BB store in Greater Toronto Area in store here. Amazon is all third party sellers and I ain't buying a monitor from them. Also, why are LG free sync monitors so damn do scarce?
Im gonna ask here you guys, maybe you can help me:
So this week i bought another Corsair Vengeance kit (DDR4 1x8) for my motherboard (gigabyte b250m ds3h). I had only 8GB originally so i wanted to upgrade. For some reason my PC wont recognize my new kit, even tho they are the same model and my motherboard should be compatible. I tested my new kit alone and it doesn't work either. What do you guys think could be the problem?
I took some pictores of each kit side-by-side and the only differences i found were the RAM versions (my old kit its Ver 3.32 and my new one its Ver 8.30). They are the same model (corsair vengeance LPX) same speeds, etc. Maybe the one i bought its fried?
So this week i bought another Corsair Vengeance kit (DDR4 1x8) for my motherboard (gigabyte b250m ds3h). I had only 8GB originally so i wanted to upgrade. For some reason my PC wont recognize my new kit, even tho they are the same model and my motherboard should be compatible. I tested my new kit alone and it doesn't work either. What do you guys think could be the problem?
I took some pictores of each kit side-by-side and the only differences i found were the RAM versions (my old kit its Ver 3.32 and my new one its Ver 8.30). They are the same model (corsair vengeance LPX) same speeds, etc. Maybe the one i bought its fried?
- Status