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Dave.

Member
Oct 27, 2017
6,182
Thanks a lot.
The board is an Asus Prime x570-p
As you can see, that has both an 8-pin and a 4-pin CPU power connector: https://www.asus.com/uk/Motherboards/PRIME-X570-P/

picnav-n2.jpg


If it's anything like my x470 Crosshair Hero, it will say in the manual "DO NOT use only the 4-pin, but using only the 8-pin is fine".
 

myzhi

Member
Oct 27, 2017
1,652
So I built my PC with a 1TB hard drive a few years back as a sort of "place-holder" drive. Since then I've installed a pair of SSDs but I still have the Windows install on the old hard drive.

What's the easiest way to move my Windows install to a new drive?

Researching this makes it seem a lot more tedious and risky than I had thought.

Anyone do this recently?
Use a cloning software to clone the Windows install onto the drive you want. Then, go into the bios and select that drive as boot priority #1.
 

Cordelia

Member
Jan 25, 2019
1,517
The Meshify doesn't have a USB-C (well, *mine* didn't, maybe specific variants do). So if that's something you want, the H510 is the winner. The H510 is also less expensive.

Don't think you can go wrong with either one tbh. Just don't get the H510i with the useless smart device.
It doesn't have one. But I also don't have any usb C devices currently. My motherboard of choice doesn't have usb c header too (tomahawk max).
 
Nov 11, 2017
1,585
Software
You don't really make it clear if the memory is a single 8 GB stick or two 4 GB sticks. If it's the former I would recommend going with the latter instead. Should be about the same price but will get you twice the memory bandwidth.

I would also be a lot more happy about the longevity of the build if you went with a CPUwith SMT like the Ryzen 2400. 4 Cores with no SMT is becoming a bit of a bottleneck in some recent games, and while you can always turn down the graphics a couple of notches if your graphics card can't hack it, it's not so easy to reduce the load on the CPU.
I made some adjustments. Thanks for the suggestions. Is this better?
  • CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600 6x 3.9GHz
  • Mainboard: Asus PRIME B450M-K, AMD B450
  • GPU: Sapphire Pulse RX 570 8GB
  • RAM: DDR4RAM 2x 4GB DDR4-2666 G.Skill RipJaws V DIMM, CL15-15-15-35 Kit
  • SSD: Intel SSD 530 Series 120 GB
  • PSU: be quiet! SYSTEM POWER 7 Netzteil 450 Watt 450W 80+ Silver PC ATX
  • Case: Cooler Master K280
 

RandomSeed

Member
Oct 27, 2017
13,808
Speakig from personal experience, it most definitely is a common outcome as a result of tweaking memory :) been there done that!

😃

As you can see, that has both an 8-pin and a 4-pin CPU power connector: https://www.asus.com/uk/Motherboards/PRIME-X570-P/
If it's anything like my x470 Crosshair Hero, it will say in the manual "DO NOT use only the 4-pin, but using only the 8-pin is fine".

Right. I just built mine with that MB and it said exactly what you did. 8 pin, 8+4 pin, but NOT just 4 pin.
 

Deleted member 49611

Nov 14, 2018
5,052
i think i've reached the peak. i have an itch to upgrade but nothing to buy.

the only thing i would consider upgrading is my monitor but i really can't be bothered dealing with the panel lottery. i tried a few monitors a while back but they all had something wrong with them.

i would like a 27" screen. either 1440p 144hz or 4K 60hz. the 144hz monitor i got kept splitting the screen in half which was super annoying. the 4k monitor i got the VRR wasn't that impressive. it was a free sync monitor but not listed on nvidia's site. it was a very stutterer mess before 50fps. ontop of that they had issues with panel quality (uneven brightness/colour or backlight).

i really wish buying a monitor was easier. it's probably the part i hate shopping for most.
 

FriendlyNPC

Member
Oct 27, 2017
1,619
Sooooo, I can get the Seasonic Focus Plus 750W for 10€s less than the 650W version. Is there like any reason to not get the 750W version here?
 

catpurrcat

Member
Oct 27, 2017
7,802
Per the bolded above, your statement is in stark contrast to the 37 game test done by these guys. Scroll down to the actual chart with all 37 games listed, and yes 1440p the percentage difference is only 6% in favour of 2070S, BUT at 4K is grows to 9%. In some games it's downright no contest with 2070S outperforming its rival:

"The margin does widen at 4K, here the 5700 XT was 9% slower on average and up to 24% slower in War Thunder and 22% slower in Metro Exodus. For those gaming at 4K, we could see a reason to purchase the RTX 2070 Super, but in terms of value the 5700 XT is still technically better."
is the 5700 XT on the performance level of a 2600 Super or 2700 Super?

Depends on the game. Quoting myself from a page back, review the website linked above.
 

catpurrcat

Member
Oct 27, 2017
7,802
So I built my PC with a 1TB hard drive a few years back as a sort of "place-holder" drive. Since then I've installed a pair of SSDs but I still have the Windows install on the old hard drive.

What's the easiest way to move my Windows install to a new drive?

Researching this makes it seem a lot more tedious and risky than I had thought.

Anyone do this recently?

There are a few different migration options. My personal favourite is Macrium Reflect. Give it a try. There are YouTube video with instructions.
 

catpurrcat

Member
Oct 27, 2017
7,802
I'm so over the 5700xt about to send it back in and switch out for an RTX 2070.

The day I got the fucking card I was troubleshooting out of the box. Random crashes and black screens constant out of range messages from my monitor. The clocks not going up in any game that doesnt fully push the card. The shits ridiculous at this point.

I've tried old drivers and the newest drivers out man nothing but problems this shit is insane. The crazy thing is I had the same problems back when I had my RX 570 but these are WAY worse.

Just going to switch to NVIDIA bro I need something stable I can't be troubleshooting like this all day man, I just wanna play games. I will say when the 5700 XT works, its a great card but the software behind it is fucking trash. I know AMD said they will be releasing a new big update to to Drivers in December but I can't wait that long man.

Yikes, sorry to hear that. These anecdotes appear to numerous and scared me away. It seems crazy to me that these aren't plug-and-play, it's a top end model!

It's so crazy to me when I read several testimonials similar to this one and then yet most owners say that their AMD GPUs work flawlessly.

In any case AMD supporters need to understand that lots of people put a value on plug'n'play compatibility, game driver support, and ease of use.

QFT

Same, keep hearing it's either the best or problematic.
 

NuMiQ

Member
Oct 25, 2017
599
The Netherlands
Sooooo, I can get the Seasonic Focus Plus 750W for 10€s less than the 650W version. Is there like any reason to not get the 750W version here?
A little extra headroom usually doesnt hurt, especially if you plan on replacing your GPU somewhere down the line.
Depending on your build it may be a little overkill, but if its cheaper, I'd say go for it. Did some quick scanning of reviews and I don't really see any large negatives popping up for both the 650W (which I have) and the 750W.
 

RandomSeed

Member
Oct 27, 2017
13,808
I really thought (and read that they did) AMD would figure their drivers out by now, but I'm getting similar issues with my 5700 XT. It's not all the time, but I'm still trying to find a driver version that doesn't CTD, or have the screen go black for some reason or another. I mean, a looping BSOD just installing their overclocking software isn't a great start.
 

FriendlyNPC

Member
Oct 27, 2017
1,619
A little extra headroom usually doesnt hurt, especially if you plan on replacing your GPU somewhere down the line.
Depending on your build it may be a little overkill, but if its cheaper, I'd say go for it. Did some quick scanning of reviews and I don't really see any large negatives popping up for both the 650W (which I have) and the 750W.

Gotcha. I thought as much but wanted to make sure there isn't something obvious I'm missing here. I am gonna get the 750W version then.

It IS a little bit more than what I need for my build but if it's cheaper I'll gladly overkill it 🤷‍♂️.
 

Matrix XII

Member
Oct 27, 2017
2,314
I ordered the Fractal Design Meshify C as a replacement case for my current PC, because the old case has been recycled several times and is missing parts/covers.

Anyway, the case arrived this morning and I got the PC moved into it this afternoon.

This case is stunningly well-made. It makes really efficient use of space, it looks nice, the diagrams in the manual are actually useful, and even little details like how the front panel connections have +/- indicators for the LEDs.

There is a special mounting bracket for SSD drives, and the 3.5" bays have anti-vibration pads. Cable management in this thing is a breeze. Lots of cases in this form factor require some usually-painful cord gymnastics, and this case doesn't have any of that.

Top to bottom, a fantastic case to work in.
That's great, I'm glad you're enjoying the Meshify C. My wife and I decided on that case for our new builds and we absolutely love it!
 

RandomSeed

Member
Oct 27, 2017
13,808
And another crash during a game with default settings and good temps. I'm with the previous poster, fucking junk.
 

Spinky

Member
Oct 25, 2017
5,123
London
So, for context, I was having these problems before:
So about a month ago I got my first (desktop) PC, with these specs:

Gigabyte RTX 2070 Super Gaming OC
Gigabyte B450 AORUS PRO Motherboard
AMD Ryzen 7 3700X
Corsair Vengeance RGB PRO 16GB (2x 8GB) 3200MHz
Corsair TX650M 650W Modular 80+ Gold PSU
Adata XPG SX8200 Pro 512GB M.2-2280 NVMe PCIe SSD
Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA III SSD
Seagate BarraCuda 2TB SATA III 3.5" Hard Drive

From day one I was having issues where the system would crash and restart often, during games 9/10 times. Also a bunch of blue screens, including one that said "critical process died" I think, which completely locked me out of Windows and I had to reinstall. ALSO some other stuff like HDR making everything look grey and fuzzy (which made me think I had a faulty GPU), and my desktop resolution sometimes randomly going to 480p. Sent it off to the repair guys and they said they had no issues the whole time and couldn't find a fault. The only things they really did apart from testing were reinstall Windows again and update the BIOS to the most recent ones, but not sure if they did that immediately or not. For some reason the guys I bought the board from updated it to BIOS that were recent but slightly out of date - Destiny 2 wouldn't launch at the time as that's apparently a known problem with Ryzen 3000 unless you've installed the right update.
After getting the PC back from the repair guys, things were fine for a week or so. The other day the crashing came back, but seemingly only for certain games like Arkham Knight and Control. Both would freeze within 20 minutes and restart my whole system. This only started happening again once I activated an XMP profile(?) to get my RAM running at 3200MHz. When I turn it off and it goes back to 2133MHz (I think) everything seems to be fine. So what does that actually mean? Faulty RAM?
 

catpurrcat

Member
Oct 27, 2017
7,802
So, for context, I was having these problems before:

After getting the PC back from the repair guys, things were fine for a week or so. The other day the crashing came back, but seemingly only for certain games like Arkham Knight and Control. Both would freeze within 20 minutes and restart my whole system. This only started happening again once I activated an XMP profile(?) to get my RAM running at 3200MHz. When I turn it off and it goes back to 2133MHz (I think) everything seems to be fine. So what does that actually mean? Faulty RAM?

run memtest to check on the ram. Let it finish the test in full!
 

RandomSeed

Member
Oct 27, 2017
13,808
can you return/exchange it to the store? Life's too short to spend the weekend troubleshooting :)

I'm looking at options now. Bought it at Amazon, so I have until November 7th. Was thinking if I do, then I'll have to spend more for a 2070 super, and then I don't now how well it would work with this FreeSync monitor now, since it's not on the "list". Probably fine, but I wouldn't know for sure.
 

Lakeside

Member
Oct 25, 2017
9,259
It is extremely unlikely a PSU manufacturer has used too thin gauge conductors for a dual plug PCIe cable to carry the max load of 300W (2x150W). It is also quite unlikely a GPU will actually pull such a high current. I would not worry at all about using a single cable with dual connectors, unless you have majorly cheaped out on the power supply and then you should worry for many other reasons. If it was a concern, such cables would not be bundled in most every modular PSU. But yeah two is technically a bit safer.

Regarding the CPU connector, sounds like he is probably good now. More like he is now running both sides of an 8-pin and the BIOS error just speaks of a more higher end board with another additional 4-pin, is my guess. What is the board please?

My perspective on the PCIE cable thing..

If you are building or upgrading it's not a significant amount of effort to run the second cable if the PSU supports it. If the PSU doesn't support it then you are probably in that situation where the PSU is either really old or you did "cheap out" as you say.

If you run one cable and have difficulty then you will wonder if it's because of the single cable, and that's the first thing the GPU manufacturer will ask you to remedy.
 
Oct 27, 2017
6,960
My perspective on the PCIE cable thing..

If you are building or upgrading it's not a significant amount of effort to run the second cable if the PSU supports it. If the PSU doesn't support it then you are probably in that situation where the PSU is either really old or you did "cheap out" as you say.

If you run one cable and have difficulty then you will wonder if it's because of the single cable, and that's the first thing the GPU manufacturer will ask you to remedy.

For clarification, that post is not about running a single plug.

It is about whether it is better to run two cables, or one cable with two plugs:
a547fc40_pcie-8.jpeg
 

Lakeside

Member
Oct 25, 2017
9,259
For clarification, that post is not about running a single plug.

It is about whether it is better to run two cables, or one cable with two plugs:
a547fc40_pcie-8.jpeg

I realize this. I don't think most GPUs will even boot with one plug. I didn't mention plugs or connectors at all.

I was just confused by the last suggestion because there are only 2 reasons that I'm aware of (to use one cable):
-Too lazy to spend 1 minute running the second cable (making a forum post takes more time)
-PSU doesn't support it (and in this case I'd be concerned about the PSU)

If the PSU comes with both connectors then it will come with both cables. Even doing math on the molex connectors and power cables, plus a bit of research on the PSU to make sure it's ok takes more work than playing just running a cable.
 
Last edited:
Oct 27, 2017
6,960
I realize this. I don't think most GPUs will even boot with one plug. I didn't mention plugs or connectors at all.

I was just confused by the last suggestion because there are only 2 reasons that I'm aware of (to use one cable):
-Too lazy to spend 1 minute running the second cable (making a forum post takes more time)
-PSU doesn't support it (and in this case I'd be concerned about the PSU)

If the PSU comes with both connectors then it will come with both cables.

But the PSU might come with 2 doubled PCIE cables with the expectation that you might want to use two dual-plug GPUs.



Someone examined it. I highly doubt that it matters, just use whatever. If the PSU is made with that double-cable, and if it isn't noname brand $30 600W PSU, the cable is going to deliver the power without problems.
 
Jul 26, 2018
2,464
Hello guys, I'm recycling some pieces from my current research PC to build a budget couch gaming station. I'd like to hear as many different views on this as possible, so I'm asking y'all to pretty please take a second and weigh in on this. It'll be fun I promise.

Use case:
  • This PC is just for games. No other "multitasking" workstation-like needs beyond browsing or playing games.
  • It'll be connected to a 4K TV, though I'm aiming at playing everything at 1080p.
  • I'm happy to play games on High. I appreciate nice graphics but I'm not really a hardcore.
  • I won't be able to upgrade for three/four years, so that's the expected life I'm hoping to get.
  • Budget is key. I could kill any of you for 20 bucks (this is just a hyperbole but you get it :P).
Hardware I could scavenge so far:
  • MSI RX 570 256-bit 8GB GDRR5 DirectX 12 (RX 570 ARMOR 8G OC).
  • Patriot VIPER 4 Series 3000MHz (PC4 24000) 2x8GB Dual Channel DDR4.
  • ASRock AB350 Pro4 AM4 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 HDMI ATX.
  • Team Group L5 LITE 3D 2.5" 480GB SATA III 3D NAND SSD.
  • CORSAIR CX450 450W ATX12V 80+ BRONZE Power Supply.
Hardware I'd be buying during Black Friday:
  • AMD Ryzen 3 1200 3.1 GHz (3.4 GHz Turbo) Quad-core (about 60 bucks) or
  • AMD Ryzen 3 3200G 3.6 GHz (4.0 GHz Max Boost) Quad-Core (about 90 bucks), or
  • AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz (3.9 GHz Max Boost) Six-Core (about 120 bucks).
  • Already checked compatibility between motherboard and CPUs.
  • Cheapest ATX Mini Tower Case that comes with two fans.
My questions:
  • As far as I've read, clock speed > number of cores for gaming. Since I want this build to keep me playing for three years now, should I prioritize six cores (2600) over four (1200, 3200G)?
  • Since I already have the RX 570 8GB, I'd like to chose a CPU that will bottleneck the least. Will the 1200, 3200G, 2600 be enough for the video card? I've got not idea how to compute bottleneck, and I don't know if the calculators I've found can be trusted or not.
  • Whichever the processor I end up picking, should I overclock? Does it make a difference?
  • Maybe you wanna recommend any alternative I've not considered so far?
Thank you people, I love y'all my ERA pals.
 
Last edited:

Kinn

Member
Oct 28, 2017
528
Probably a few options, but for PCIe3 NVMe the Samsung 970 Pro springs to mind.
Having spent a few hours researching this very question I agree with eddy

Even the vanilla 970 (non plus and non pro) nvme is excellent apparently.

I don't like to mess around with the OS drive so maybe it's paranoia but I recommend a known reliable drive brand.
Can't speak for anything other than the Corsair MP510, which I have 2 x 1 TB, and they're amazing. Zero complaints.
Paranoia and highly outdated outlook.

It is over. There are no more bad controllers, firmware problems or wear in most drives. The market has sorted itself out.

Intel, Crucial, Corsair, Samsung, Adata, Patriot, Sabrent, WD, Sandisk, HP - all of them just work.

Thanks guys. probably choose the Samsung 970 Pro or Sabrent. Need to see how of a real world difference there is between them.
 

Lakeside

Member
Oct 25, 2017
9,259
But the PSU might come with 2 doubled PCIE cables with the expectation that you might want to use two dual-plug GPUs.



Someone examined it. I highly doubt that it matters, just use whatever. If the PSU is made with that double-cable, and if it isn't noname brand $30 600W PSU, the cable is going to deliver the power without problems.


With the proper PSU and cables it's fine. Most people probably won't be able to check off all those boxes.

The last few GPUs I've owned instruct customers to use 2 cables. If you get into any warranty/RMA situations then they will explicitly ask you if you are using a single cable. At that point you can either lie to them or swap it out.

I don't see the point in arguing about this. If you want to use a single cable then knock yourself out. My original point stands... The only reasons to use one cable is a PSU that is probably old and might not be well equipped to hand it.. or laziness. Or maybe you just want to show the world what a rebel you are rather than take 1 minute to comply with what is obviously best practice.

Since this is a forum that has many users lacking in computer knowledge, it only makes sense to recommend best practice. Otherwise you end up with people throwing splitters onto their old non-modular PSU, using shitty PSUs that aren't on a single rail, using cables that have connectors not up to the task, etc. Personally I know my unit could handle it but why not just use 2 cables and spread the load? There is zero reason for me to do anything else.

If someone has an edge case (I think there was one this week) with a somewhat recent and high quality PSU that for whatever reason has only 1 PCIE connector.. then they can consult for additional details to make sure it's ok. It just gets weird when PSU manufacturers use multiple OEMs and don't change the part number. That makes it more difficult to validate something like this efficiently.
 
Last edited:

RandomSeed

Member
Oct 27, 2017
13,808
Well, that's that. 5700 XT is being returned and now I need to find out what 2070 super to get I guess. One of the more affordable option, heh.
 

catpurrcat

Member
Oct 27, 2017
7,802
Hello guys, I'm recycling some pieces from my current research PC to build a budget couch gaming station. I'd like to hear as many different views on this as possible, so I'm asking y'all to pretty please take a second and weigh in on this. It'll be fun I promise.

Use case:
  • This PC is just for games. No other "multitasking" workstation-like needs beyond browsing or playing games.
  • It'll be connected to a 4K TV, though I'm aiming at playing everything at 1080p.
  • I'm happy to play games on High. I appreciate nice graphics but I'm not really a hardcore.
  • I won't be able to upgrade for three/four years, so that's the expected life I'm hoping to get.
  • Budget is key. I could kill any of you for 20 bucks (this is just a hyperbole but you get it :P).
Hardware I could scavenge so far:
  • MSI RX 570 256-bit 8GB GDRR5 DirectX 12 (RX 570 ARMOR 8G OC).
  • Patriot VIPER 4 Series 3000MHz (PC4 24000) 2x8GB Dual Channel DDR4.
  • ASRock AB350 Pro4 AM4 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 HDMI ATX.
  • Team Group L5 LITE 3D 2.5" 480GB SATA III 3D NAND SSD.
  • CORSAIR CX450 450W ATX12V 80+ BRONZE Power Supply.
Hardware I'd be buying during Black Friday:
  • AMD Ryzen 3 1200 3.1 GHz (3.4 GHz Turbo) Quad-core (about 60 bucks) or
  • AMD Ryzen 3 3200G 3.6 GHz (4.0 GHz Max Boost) Quad-Core (about 90 bucks), or
  • AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz (3.9 GHz Max Boost) Six-Core (about 120 bucks).
  • Already checked compatibility between motherboard and CPUs.
  • Cheapest ATX Mini Tower Case that comes with two fans.
My questions:
  • As far as I've read, clock speed > number of cores for gaming. Since I want this build to keep me playing for three years now, should I prioritize six cores (2600) over four (1200, 3200G)?
  • Since I already have the RX 570 8GB, I'd like to chose a CPU that will bottleneck the least. Will the 1200, 3200G, 2600 be enough for the video card? I've got not idea how to compute bottleneck, and I don't know if the calculators I've found can be trusted or not.
  • Whichever the processor I end up picking, should I overclock? Does it make a difference?
  • Maybe you wanna recommend any alternative I've not considered so far?
Thank you people, I love y'all my ERA pals.

4K is heavily dependent on GPU and on a RX570 you won't be doing much of that. 1080p you're good.

Best CPU value right now is the 2600. No need to wait for Black Friday as it's already quite discounted.
 

Lakeside

Member
Oct 25, 2017
9,259
Any reason to not go with the black edition of 2070S or 2080S? I don't care for rgb, and do not overclock. On an I5-8500 and just want solid plug and play at 4k/60.

Black Edition is clocked slightly lower and they may bin the cards to give Black the lower end of the spectrum. The factory clocks you see aren't a big deal since Nvidia cards boost anyways. The binning can be an issue but there is some debate regarding whether that actually happens. If so then they might boost lower.

It also gets their lowest end (2 slot) non-blower cooler where the higher end models get heftier coolers that require 2+ slots.

It is a good value if you don't care about those things.
 

drastic

Member
Oct 25, 2017
63
Black Edition is clocked slightly lower and they may bin the cards to give Black the lower end of the spectrum. The factory clocks you see aren't a big deal since Nvidia cards boost anyways. The binning can be an issue but there is some debate regarding whether that actually happens. If so then they might boost lower.

It also gets their lowest end (2 slot) non-blower cooler where the higher end models get heftier coolers that require 2+ slots.

It is a good value if you don't care about those things.
So the lower clock is fine, looking at the performance:price ratio, for me. Binning mainly applies to overclocking though, right? The cards should hit their advertised minimums, I'm assuming.

Is the dual fan much louder than the triple? That's the only thing I could see potentially being a factor at this point.
 

Lakeside

Member
Oct 25, 2017
9,259
So the lower clock is fine, looking at the performance:price ratio, for me. Binning mainly applies to overclocking though, right? The cards should hit their advertised minimums, I'm assuming.

Is the dual fan much louder than the triple? That's the only thing I could see potentially being a factor at this point.

The clock listed isn't a big deal.

To clarify on the binning, using rough numbers.. my 2080 Super will boost to ~2000 and then settle in around 1940-1980 after some gaming. That's without any overclocking. IF they bin the Black then you might get cards that either don't boost so high or need more power to do so. Then it's in the feedback loop of more power=more heat + lower end cooler, so the boost will settle down to a lower clock when you game.

The numbers they advertise are guaranteed but all cards should exceed those numbers so it's just a matter of how much.

I haven't done any research on the cooler, but that will also tend to drive clocks down vs. a 2.75 slot cooler (if you have room for such a thing).

But prices are a thing so value of this model fluctuates. It might be really good now.
 

drastic

Member
Oct 25, 2017
63
The clock listed isn't a big deal.

To clarify on the binning, using rough numbers.. my 2080 Super will boost to ~2000 and then settle in around 1940-1980 after some gaming. That's without any overclocking. IF they bin the Black then you might get cards that either don't boost so high or need more power to do so. Then it's in the feedback loop of more power=more heat + lower end cooler, so the boost will settle down to a lower clock when you game.

The numbers they advertise are guaranteed but all cards should exceed those numbers so it's just a matter of how much.

I haven't done any research on the cooler, but that will also tend to drive clocks down vs. a 2.75 slot cooler (if you have room for such a thing).

But prices are a thing so value of this model fluctuates. It might be really good now.
My understanding is my case of shooting for 4k/60, this extra boost won't come into play much. Any thoughts on that being accurate? I'm on a 1070 now that is choking to hit 60 fps. $700 for a black edition 2080S seems like the right bang for buck for me if the fans aren't too noisy. Basically, I want to get the most card I can for 600-700 around BF for 4k/60.
 

Lakeside

Member
Oct 25, 2017
9,259
My understanding is my case of shooting for 4k/60, this extra boost won't come into play much. Any thoughts on that being accurate? I'm on a 1070 now that is choking to hit 60 fps. $700 for a black edition 2080S seems like the right bang for buck for me if the fans aren't too noisy. Basically, I want to get the most card I can for 600-700 around BF for 4k/60.

I would say it's the exact opposite. Even a 2080 Ti isn't ideal for 4K/60, though it's good most of the time.

With anything less than a 2080 Ti you will need to squeeze every ounce out of that card by any means necessary, while also turning down graphics settings.
 

drastic

Member
Oct 25, 2017
63
I would say it's the exact opposite. Even a 2080 Ti isn't ideal for 4K/60, though it's good most of the time.

With anything less than a 2080 Ti you will need to squeeze every ounce out of that card by any means necessary, while also turning down graphics settings.
Interesting. I thought 2080ti was mainly needed for high fps like 144. Thanks for the feedback.
 

shinobi602

Verified
Oct 24, 2017
8,496
Finally doing some real PC gaming after avoiding it for so long, though I thought I'd be getting some better results. Right now my build looks like this:

ASRock B250M Pro4-IB
Intel i7 7700K @ 4.2GHz
2070 RTX Founder's Edition
ADATA XPG Z1 16GB 2400MHz
WD Blue 1TB HDD + WD Green 240GB SSD
600W PSU

Tried out some games this weekend, it breezes through Wolfenstein: Youngblood at 4K/60 all ultra settings but something like GreedFall can't stick to 60FPS at 4K. It hovers between the high 30's to high 40's. So I dropped it down to 1440p and it targets 60 then but the drops are so glaring and noticeable that sticking to 4K actually makes it feel smoother.
 

drastic

Member
Oct 25, 2017
63
So
At lower resolutions that would be the case but there is nothing that can manhandle 4K/60 at this time.
I have plenty of room in my htpc case. I also prefer evga, so looks like my 2080 ti options are XC ultra, XC2 ultra or FTW3 Ultra to get the bigger card for better cooling. None of these are in stock, though. That is not promising.
 
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