If you have the budget for it and are planning to upgrade your CPU in a couple years, might as well go with a 2070. Either that or a 1660Ti to tide you over and then get a whole new, high-end rig in 2 years.
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The PC Builders Thread ("I Need a New PC") v2
- Thread starter Soda
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What future upgrades might you have potential of doing, or is this build going to be complete and have to last as long as possible? GPUs probably make the most significant strides the fastest...
I'd hate you to lowball the CPU in any way...
Well, it depends on what's best. I was planning to build something that will last 5 years without upgrades, but if it's better to buy low and upgrade more frequently over time, I'm interested to hear what you'd suggest.
You won't need a 9900k to game at 60fps. Get a Ryzen 2600 or 2700 and upgrade in the future if needed.
So I've been catching up on information with building a current PC. I will be in need more of a Workstation/Gaming hybrid. I jump started the buying process with this:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824475015
The monitor is amazing! But obviously now I can't play most of my games with the higher resolution. But for design work its amazing. I just thought the curve looks cooler. lol
Yesterday I splurged on the Case with a Franctal Design Meshify S2:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352102
My issue now is I am starting to get a little antsy. I've been trying to patiently wait for the new Ryzens / prices to be announced. As well as waiting to see if ram will go down in price. I really am shooting for 64gb but I might need to settle on 32gb to start out.
My question is....the Ryzen 2700x is on sale right now. I almost want to order it so I can start up the new build. But then I will be locked into this system because I don't want to buy another processor a few months from now.
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824475015
The monitor is amazing! But obviously now I can't play most of my games with the higher resolution. But for design work its amazing. I just thought the curve looks cooler. lol
Yesterday I splurged on the Case with a Franctal Design Meshify S2:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352102
My issue now is I am starting to get a little antsy. I've been trying to patiently wait for the new Ryzens / prices to be announced. As well as waiting to see if ram will go down in price. I really am shooting for 64gb but I might need to settle on 32gb to start out.
My question is....the Ryzen 2700x is on sale right now. I almost want to order it so I can start up the new build. But then I will be locked into this system because I don't want to buy another processor a few months from now.
Like the other guy says, if you don't mind low balling it short term and installing a new CPU months or a year or two down the road you can go Ryzen. Should be more than sufficient for most games (a few notable exceptions).
Or you can get the i9-9900k and probably not have to upgrade for 5 years. Probably about the same cost long term.
Alternatively, the GPU is the highest price point, someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but a 2080 should do 3440x1440 60 with RTX disabled for a while. But a 2080Ti will absolutely not make it 5 years at 3440x1440 60. (You might struggle as soon as the first next gen console games get ported to PC, at least near max PC details, as these games will be built to play at 30fps on a GPU maybe 60%, possibly even 75% as powerful) You can completely count on that. GPU will have to be upgraded within 5 years.
I'm assuming most games won't have the same proportional demand from the CPU, but that's always possible and would probably require a AMD CPU requiring a new mobo (and of course that's the case for Intel too) by that time... (so I can't guarantee you 5 years regardless)
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The next Ryzen CPUs will be compatible with current mobos, so you could consider a cheap 2600 (or even 2400G) now with a good motherboard and upgrade to a Ryzen 3x00 when they come out :)
On an unrelated note, I'm almost bummed I don't need to build a PC right now, because I'm super intrigued by the Mastercase Q500L.
Guys, I did a terrible mistake. I bought all my computer parts a month ago and I didn't notice the motherboard was out of stock (B450 carbon). I backordered it, since I imagined a month wait wouldn't kill me and I really wanted the motherboard (it seems it's great and it has WiFi included and all that jazz).
A month went by, and it seems the manufacturer couldn't deliver on time and there is no date to when it might happen.
Should I cancel my order and just order a different motherboard? If so, what should I pick for a Ryzen2700 and a RTX 2070?
A month went by, and it seems the manufacturer couldn't deliver on time and there is no date to when it might happen.
Should I cancel my order and just order a different motherboard? If so, what should I pick for a Ryzen2700 and a RTX 2070?
I don't know if you'd be interested, but the mid-range option for AMD is basically the RX 580. It gives a fairly good bang for your buck, it's the cheapest option and can play most games at 1080 60fps without much issue.
If you can afford a 2060 or higher though without too much issue it may be a better idea to just go with that.
That just makes me want to grab a 2700x even more. Because the price difference isn't too bad. I mean I guess I could go all out with super high quality parts and then in a year make the upgrade to better CPU and add in that extra 34gb ram.
That's good to hear. It seems like the 1660 Ti is the new price to performance value goto card.
I don't agree with your asseessment that discussion about Windows keys is encouraged. Not at all.
That's the choice I made (posted list to this thread yesterday). Splurged a bit on the Crosshair VII Hero board so even if they come out with a 16 core Ryzen 3000 the VRMs will be up to the job easily.
Damn that is quite the pricey motherboard but I would want to upgrade in about 1 year to the new Ryzens so maybe I'll jump on it. I also heard I need to get at least 3600 ram because that's where bottlenecks can occur with AMD?
Ok I lost patience today and started ordering parts. Right now I am just a little stuck on what ram to buy? I am trying to make this a bit future proof for the next gen ryzens. So I am thinking of splurging on these:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod....SKILL_Sniper_X_Series-_-20-232-741-_-Product
3600 so I won't have to worry too much in the future when I upgrade processor. Plus I can add in another 32gb down the road to fill all 4 slots. Or is even 3600 just way overkill?
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod....SKILL_Sniper_X_Series-_-20-232-741-_-Product
3600 so I won't have to worry too much in the future when I upgrade processor. Plus I can add in another 32gb down the road to fill all 4 slots. Or is even 3600 just way overkill?
CAS Latency affects the performance as well, specially on Ryzen, as I understand it. I don't know how much 19 would affect it. But for instance, I understand that 3200 with CAS Latency of 16 can be equivalent to 3400 with CAS Latency 17. For Ryzen I often see people recommending G.SKILL Flare X, which is CAS Latency 14.
You mentioned you owned a 290 so maybe if you would like a card with that same size, maybe get the triple fan model from Gigabyte.
I also upgraded from a 290 recently, but my budget only allowed for a 1660 Ti.
Any of the major brands as long as it isn't a blower model (unless you have a water-cooled CPU that is). EVGA usually has the best warranty if that's important to you.
I just decided its not worth the price. I figured going 3200 with lower 14 CAS latency like you suggested would be better.
I was looking for a 2060 too and found this benchmark/ temp/ noise side by side comparison of 6 different 2060's. I posted it a few pages back.
I picked up an MSI Ventus OC the other week (it was the cheapest by a long way that was still in stock).
Temps are superb, mine tops out at 63 after a 25 minute stress test, and even then the fans are super quiet. Ran the OC Scanner in MSI Afterburner and it regularly hits 2000MHz on the core. Really happy with the purchase, if you're gaming in 1080p the 2060 is a brilliant card
Heads up for AM4 Asus mainboard owners about RAM compatibility: Things have just become better
I own this RAM G.Skill F4-3600C16D-16GVK and wasn't even able to boot using the XMP profile on my Asus X470 CH7 and had to run it at 3466MHz and 1.41V.
The latest Bios (2108) significantly improved stability for me. I'm now running the XMP profile at 1.35V, I was not only able to boot but the PC is running stable now for an hour. Too early to open up a champagne bottle, but there is something here. So if 2108 becomes available for your asus board, give it a try.
I own this RAM G.Skill F4-3600C16D-16GVK and wasn't even able to boot using the XMP profile on my Asus X470 CH7 and had to run it at 3466MHz and 1.41V.
The latest Bios (2108) significantly improved stability for me. I'm now running the XMP profile at 1.35V, I was not only able to boot but the PC is running stable now for an hour. Too early to open up a champagne bottle, but there is something here. So if 2108 becomes available for your asus board, give it a try.
You can look on the mobo's support page and check for updated drivers. The disc is most probably outdated too.
Ok thanks! I realized I didn't buy an external optical drive so I would have to figure something out. I will do it that way once I get the machine up and running.
So excited!
I am very surprised if you found 3200 CL14 for a lower price than the 3600 CL19 linked above! I (over?) paid quite a lot for Flare X CL14. I believe 3200/14 is significantly faster than 3600/19.
If you are serious about going to 64GB soon, I wouldn't worry about it much and prob just go for whatever is good but reasonably priced - with all four banks full of double stacked dimms, it's not going to be running anywhere near maximum speeds AFAIK (faster RAM maybe still capable of faster though).
I am not 100% sure this still applies, but at Ryzen launch there were popular statements of "2 DIMMs up to 3200MHz, 4 DIMMs up to 2400 MHz" on motherboard specs.
The rest of my parts came yesterday, so I immediately started putting it all together.
I had a few panic moments:
First I thought I was missing the mainboard raiser screws, but my case has built-in raisers.
I accidentally bent two pins of the USB 3 connector on the motherboard, but I managed to gently bent them back.
I forgot to put the screws into the CPU backplate so it fell out of the motherboard when I wanted to put them in afterwards. That meant I had to remove the PSU,
put the backplate back in and screw it up.
Lastly I put the wrong screws into the CPU backplate so my pump wouldn't fit, because of that I had some of the pre applied thermal paste from the pump on the CPU, while I needed to swap the screws. I hope that this won't cause any issues afterwards.
Mini ITX is no joke, the cable management was really fiddly, but I really like my case.
Tomorrow I'm getting 2x 80mm bequiet! Silent Wings 2 for the back of the case and 2x 120mm Noctua NF-F12 for my Corsair H75 radiator, because the stock SP120 fans are so damn loud.
Aside from that I'm really happy with my build. Tried some games (Overwatch, Quake Champions, Doom) and everything ran at around 200 FPS on highest settings at 1080p (I think Doom is locked at 200). With 200% resolution scale in OW and QC ran at 120 - 140 fps.
I'll post some pics, when I got home from work.
I had a few panic moments:
First I thought I was missing the mainboard raiser screws, but my case has built-in raisers.
I accidentally bent two pins of the USB 3 connector on the motherboard, but I managed to gently bent them back.
I forgot to put the screws into the CPU backplate so it fell out of the motherboard when I wanted to put them in afterwards. That meant I had to remove the PSU,
put the backplate back in and screw it up.
Lastly I put the wrong screws into the CPU backplate so my pump wouldn't fit, because of that I had some of the pre applied thermal paste from the pump on the CPU, while I needed to swap the screws. I hope that this won't cause any issues afterwards.
Mini ITX is no joke, the cable management was really fiddly, but I really like my case.
Tomorrow I'm getting 2x 80mm bequiet! Silent Wings 2 for the back of the case and 2x 120mm Noctua NF-F12 for my Corsair H75 radiator, because the stock SP120 fans are so damn loud.
Aside from that I'm really happy with my build. Tried some games (Overwatch, Quake Champions, Doom) and everything ran at around 200 FPS on highest settings at 1080p (I think Doom is locked at 200). With 200% resolution scale in OW and QC ran at 120 - 140 fps.
I'll post some pics, when I got home from work.
I'm amazed at all the people who are getting 2080Tis around here ^^
No judgement at all, obviously, but I wish I could spend that kind of money on a GPU :)
Enjoy!
No judgement at all, obviously, but I wish I could spend that kind of money on a GPU :)
Enjoy!
Yeah, I'm thinking it'll be a fairly big upgrade from the R9 Nano I've had the last 3 - 4 years.
Ive stuck to mid - upper range AMD cards for a looong time, but their 4K offering doesn't come near and I wanted 4K/60 with little compromise, this was the only card capable and is my first Nvidia top tier card since the TNT2.
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The Carbon is an MSI model right? You can get literally any other B450 board that has the features you're looking for but as a general rule I recommend sticking to ASUS, MSI or Gigabyte.
Not sure what price you paid on the backordered Carbon. Assuming you're referring to the ATX version, some alternatives around the same spot in the tier list:
- MSI B450 Tomahawk - $115
- MSI X470 Gaming Plus - $135
- ASUS Prime X-470 Pro - $150
- ASUS ROG STRIX X470-F - $190
- MSI - X470 GAMING PRO CARBON - $190
I can vouch for the ASUS Prime X-470 Pro, works perfectly. The D.O.C.P. overclock setting also worked with G.Skill Trident RGB 3200MHz C14 Ram. It doesn't have wireless or cmos button on the I/O, but out of most of the ones I've looked at, especially the higher end ASUS boards it has better compromises when NVMe drives are installed on the Mobo in regards to which PCI slots you will not be able to utilize after installing them.
how would these run paired with a 2700?
https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820232498&ignorebbr=1
(G.Skill TridentZ - 2x8gb; DDR4 3000; CL16)
https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820232498&ignorebbr=1
(G.Skill TridentZ - 2x8gb; DDR4 3000; CL16)
I need some advice on building a new PC.
I'm still using my PC built in 2008 with 4GB of ram and a Intel dual core [email protected] . I've upgraded the GPU from a 4850 to a 5850 several years ago. I used to game a lot on PC during the ps360 because it was the only place to get acceptable IQ and fps. With the current gen, I'm very happy with the price/performance ratio of the X and the Pro.
From what I understand of the current market, if you game at 1080p it's very easy to get a beast for less than a thousand dollars, but i'm using my 4K TV as a monitor and I rather play on the consoles. I'm not ready to spend more than a thousand for 4k gaming.
My usage is :
- web browsing
- video playback and light editing
- accurate emulation for retro consoles with good filters
- cheap indie games on steam and classic PC exclusives
- very quiet and small form factor.
I learned about the NUC recently and I wondered if it will be enough to do all the above. The form factor and noise seem perfect, but I have no idea if the performance will be enough to do all the above.
I don't want to spend more than 600€.
There's also some very cheap mini pc for less than 300€ euros, and I wondered if it could replace my current build.
Thanks for your help and sorry for the bad english.
I'm still using my PC built in 2008 with 4GB of ram and a Intel dual core [email protected] . I've upgraded the GPU from a 4850 to a 5850 several years ago. I used to game a lot on PC during the ps360 because it was the only place to get acceptable IQ and fps. With the current gen, I'm very happy with the price/performance ratio of the X and the Pro.
From what I understand of the current market, if you game at 1080p it's very easy to get a beast for less than a thousand dollars, but i'm using my 4K TV as a monitor and I rather play on the consoles. I'm not ready to spend more than a thousand for 4k gaming.
My usage is :
- web browsing
- video playback and light editing
- accurate emulation for retro consoles with good filters
- cheap indie games on steam and classic PC exclusives
- very quiet and small form factor.
I learned about the NUC recently and I wondered if it will be enough to do all the above. The form factor and noise seem perfect, but I have no idea if the performance will be enough to do all the above.
I don't want to spend more than 600€.
There's also some very cheap mini pc for less than 300€ euros, and I wondered if it could replace my current build.
Thanks for your help and sorry for the bad english.
Thanks mate! Got my build pretty much finalised now. Should be getting the parts soon. Cheers!
The quest for a good, high quality monitor continues.
The PG279Q I purchased had terrible backlight bleeding. The PG278QR purchased has started exhibiting what looks like auto-dimming/contrast (even though I have auto-contrast set to off), and it's very noticeable in certain scenes.
The PG279Q I purchased had terrible backlight bleeding. The PG278QR purchased has started exhibiting what looks like auto-dimming/contrast (even though I have auto-contrast set to off), and it's very noticeable in certain scenes.
Perhaps give VA panels a shot, they have better blacks and no back light bleed. They also are viewable at side angles like IPS.
I just bought a LG 850 32" 2K monitor and it works great (exact model number is LG 32GK850G-B, there is also a Freesync version the LG 32GK850G-F). This particular model use the AU Optronics M315DVR01 displays, which have way better Quality Control than the displays typically used in those ASUS models.
How would you go about putting the pieces together? I have a Corsair H115 pump, so would I do ....
CPU/Pump on CPU/MOBO in case and attach pump. Then the RAM, etc?
Since I am using the pumps silicon that comes on it, I just want to make sure I do not need to reset.
CPU/Pump on CPU/MOBO in case and attach pump. Then the RAM, etc?
Since I am using the pumps silicon that comes on it, I just want to make sure I do not need to reset.
Install CPU/RAM into motherboard. Then attach the pump. Then install the motherboard into the case, screw it down, then install the radiator.
You want to do the least amount of work in the case as possible. It's much easier to install everything outside the case.
Okay thanks! So with this case, https://pcpartpicker.com/product/NRvZxr/phanteks-case-phes515etgbk how would I install the radiator/fans on the top? I never used a slide out before. Do I put the radiator in the slide out and the fans under blowing through the radiator? Or something else?
My advice is don't touch the case until the very end!
- Empty mobo box, read manual.
- Mobo on top of it's empty box, with any luck it came with a mobo sized piece of foam to rest it on, if not oh well just use the box.
- Insert CPU carefully.
- Read cooler manual! Attach cooler carefully. You will appreciate this is MUCH easier without a case surrounding all angles!
- Insert RAM
- If AMD (or no iGPU), insert video card.
- Connect PSU - only the big 24 pin and extra 4/8 pin ATX power to board, also PCI-E 8 pin to video card if needed - we are still on an open table here!
- Connect to monitor. Connect a Keyboard
- Turn on PSU at wall. Turn on PSU at PSU. With any luck mobo has a status LED light up somewhere.
- Boot it (hopefully mobo has a button built in, if not then touch the two PWR pins with a screwdriver briefly (Look in mobo manual, should have read it already. Look on board. This is where you would connect the case's power switch)
- It works!!! celebrate! Go in BIOS, look at temps. Watch for a bit. Adjust settings. Reboot a few times, check temps in bios.
- Make a memtest86 USB. Boot it, let it run a few cycles. You want to know if your computer is a crashy RMA in waiting before assembling everything.
It's good? Now we can move on to carefully and neatly assembling everything in the case, safe in the knowledge the core components are in perfect working order.
Leave CPU, RAM and cooler attached to the mobo at all times from now on. Handle mobo by the cooler (if it's Air / big enough) or the edges, and carefully. If water, keep one hand on the rad. Obv don't have either part hanging by the hoses!
There is nothing worse than building a full PC and clicking the power button for the first time and... nothing. In that event, you're going to have to strip it all out the case anyhow to troubleshoot. Do that on the way in instead! it takes no extra time, and you know far sooner if you are going to have problems.
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