The snes one thingiverse. Haven't seen the super famicon ones.
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Yeah the Thingiverse ones are the US ones I mentioned unfortunately. If it comes down to it then I might just have to try and create my own by chopping up a Super Famicom stl file.
I was looking/hoping for a hangout thread for this.
Got a FDM printer! And I fucking hate printers!
I've printed some cool stuff from thingiverse and now looking into messing with this photogrammetry monkey business.
Crazy.
Also interested in designing stuff, but haven't messed with 3d modeling since quake2.
3dsmax box modeling and qoole for maps. Never boned or animated anything.
Suggestions appreciated. Not sure what to start with.
Subbed.
edit:
I'm printing a benchy right now.. 67%
Got a FDM printer! And I fucking hate printers!
I've printed some cool stuff from thingiverse and now looking into messing with this photogrammetry monkey business.
Crazy.
Also interested in designing stuff, but haven't messed with 3d modeling since quake2.
3dsmax box modeling and qoole for maps. Never boned or animated anything.
Suggestions appreciated. Not sure what to start with.
Subbed.
edit:
I'm printing a benchy right now.. 67%
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3DSMax is a nice modelling program, but it's really good for virtual graphics like video games and movies. 3D printing exists in the real world and you want your 3D modelling program to respect the laws of physics. Polygonal based 3D modelling programs like Max and Maya don't do that. Your solid objects aren't really solid, they are a mesh of polygons, edges and vertices. I haven't printed with Max, I know you can, but most of the models I've built in it would print as a noodle soup.
The family of 3D modelling programs that are great for printing are called parametric modelling. Fusion 360 and Inventor are a good two to start looking at. They are intermediate to pro level. They'll mess with your head moving from Max as it is a completely different way of thinking, but for designing and modelling with printing in mind, parametric is the way to go. You can dial in your dimensions, adjust much more accurately and the history tools are much more powerful.
Polygons to Max are like what pixels are to Photoshop and parametric is like what vectors are to illustrator.
In parametric a solid is a solid and you can perform boolean operations without any of the mess you get when modelling in polygons. You'll more than likely be printing designs with multiple parts formed into an assembly. Parametric programs are really good at managing assemblies and even work as intended. Like I said, they obey the laws of physics, so if you've assembled your engine properly you can turn it on in the program. You can still do this in Max, but it's more of a work around from memory.
I use CATIA to work on my models. :)
You could also try the free trial of xDesign here (https://www.solidworks.com/product/solidworks-xdesign)
And Solidworks for kids is also free. :)
https://www.swappsforkids.com/
You could also try the free trial of xDesign here (https://www.solidworks.com/product/solidworks-xdesign)
And Solidworks for kids is also free. :)
https://www.swappsforkids.com/
I have sat next to a 3D printer when it was doing it's thing, and I was not prepared for the cool noises they make.
This makes good sense to me. I knew I was in a different world but didn't know where to start.
Kids are definitely a factor. My SO kinda shamed the purchase until she saw the kids' interest. :wink:
Will check out both!
Thank you both for the thoughtful replies. I _really_ appreciate it.
I love when it's doing infill stuff. :lol
Would be fun to make random model that sounds like the imperial march or something ~ like folks have done with disk writing or 2d printers. :)
Probably already been done I'm sure.
Edit: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:70352
Ha!
I don't have room in my current apartment but when I get my house I'm buying a 3D printer for my workshop. Thankfully I've got a local makerspace with polyprinters.
How would one go about 3D printing jewellery like engagement rings, if even possible (material wise?) My partner & I have been thinking about designing our own ones.
There is direct metal printing but you are not likely to get the quality you want. Fine jewelry can be 3D printed or machined from wax then the wax is used to investment cast the metal. You can use some fdm materials like nylons as the "wax" for investment casting but again the surface quality is probably not desireable for fine jewelry.
Edit:
Here is an example of the process.
https://formlabs.com/industries/jewelry/
There's also filament that's metal-laden that you then fire in a kiln, although that's outright risky to even use at the scale of jewelry.
What you're likely going to want, Supervizzle, is a resin 3D printer instead. You probably don't want to buy one but just use one. You can use the resin print to investment cast the metal as suggested while keeping incredibly fine surface quality. If I recall correctly, for something like jewelry regular sand casting isn't going to work. You'll want casting investment powder.
SLA printers don't make any noise when they print. They just make a quiet ka-thunk noise when they switch to a new layer.
check out this company they make two types of 3d printers specifically for jewelry https://www.solidscape.com/ and if you want to see the process from 3D to a finished product here's another helpful page https://www.rockher.com/how-we-make-your-ring-to-order/
Fuck. I just killed my 3D printer.
I was going to add a heater to it, so I took off the back panel to drill a hole for the heater's power cord.
The power for the printer runs from a plug on the back panel, along a shirt cord, to a plug on a small power board inside. I set the panel aside and was reaching inside the printer to unplug from the board when the bottom of the panel started slipping on the table surface and the panel fell off the table. The cable came loose from the board, but before it did the plug got bent a little bit away from the power board. I tested the printer after that and it doesn't power on.
I have no idea how much the board costs or how much it would cost to fix. I guess I'll find out tomorrow.
I was going to add a heater to it, so I took off the back panel to drill a hole for the heater's power cord.
The power for the printer runs from a plug on the back panel, along a shirt cord, to a plug on a small power board inside. I set the panel aside and was reaching inside the printer to unplug from the board when the bottom of the panel started slipping on the table surface and the panel fell off the table. The cable came loose from the board, but before it did the plug got bent a little bit away from the power board. I tested the printer after that and it doesn't power on.
I have no idea how much the board costs or how much it would cost to fix. I guess I'll find out tomorrow.
reviving thread but i picked up my first 3D printer. the Ender 5 by Creality. I actually had the package since monday but just got around to building it. ended up having to replace the ptfe tube because it was bent all weird and the filament wouldn't feed right and it would end up pulling the end from the feeder out. i already ordered the capricorn tube so was able to replace it.
did the sample gcode on the card. thought i was doing the dog. but it ended up being the pig lol. which took longer than i expected. but quality wise it looks great. had no problem except the spool they gave me the way it was wound around the 2hr mark it was getting caught and i had to manually unwind until it eventually stop getting stuck.
a lil bit of threading between the ear but otherwise smooth print.
second print which is printing right now is the benchy.
but i have some stuff to 3d print for some D&D.
did the sample gcode on the card. thought i was doing the dog. but it ended up being the pig lol. which took longer than i expected. but quality wise it looks great. had no problem except the spool they gave me the way it was wound around the 2hr mark it was getting caught and i had to manually unwind until it eventually stop getting stuck.
a lil bit of threading between the ear but otherwise smooth print.
second print which is printing right now is the benchy.
but i have some stuff to 3d print for some D&D.
reviving thread but i picked up my first 3D printer. the Ender 5 by Creality. I actually had the package since monday but just got around to building it. ended up having to replace the ptfe tube because it was bent all weird and the filament wouldn't feed right and it would end up pulling the end from the feeder out. i already ordered the capricorn tube so was able to replace it.
did the sample gcode on the card. thought i was doing the dog. but it ended up being the pig lol. which took longer than i expected. but quality wise it looks great. had no problem except the spool they gave me the way it was wound around the 2hr mark it was getting caught and i had to manually unwind until it eventually stop getting stuck.
a lil bit of threading between the ear but otherwise smooth print.
second print which is printing right now is the benchy.
but i have some stuff to 3d print for some D&D.
I have one of these at my company, gonna try and print this on it this week:
Rightward pointing arrow
I've tried to print this for the kiddo a few times and it keeps failing. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3591373
My filament keeps breaking. the print doesn't really fail, the line just breaks
Starting to wonder if the filament is just too old and brittle. Is that a thing?
It's the only thing I've tried lately and its the same PLA that shipped with the printer.
edit: there's a light saber version if anyone is interested.
the ambient temp has been a little higher too. and I think the spool has been in direct sun light a few times. lol
I should order new filament I'm pretty sure.
My filament keeps breaking. the print doesn't really fail, the line just breaks
Starting to wonder if the filament is just too old and brittle. Is that a thing?
It's the only thing I've tried lately and its the same PLA that shipped with the printer.
edit: there's a light saber version if anyone is interested.
the ambient temp has been a little higher too. and I think the spool has been in direct sun light a few times. lol
I should order new filament I'm pretty sure.
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I've printed the katana version and it was fine except some of the walls fixed together and I used a hair dryer to hear it up and break it apart. Read some comments that mention turning off the heated bed after the first few layers helps.
For the filament problem, could be a few different things. Check to see if it's wound well, if there are tangles it could cause breaking. Another thing that could cause filament issues is moisture, I've heard you can throw the spool in an oven and bake at a low temp for a few hours and it'll help dry it out.
For the filament problem, could be a few different things. Check to see if it's wound well, if there are tangles it could cause breaking. Another thing that could cause filament issues is moisture, I've heard you can throw the spool in an oven and bake at a low temp for a few hours and it'll help dry it out.
I made a 3d printed robot for my Master of Architecture thesis.
I had two DIY FDM printers and a DLP printer. I used about 10 spools of PLA for prototyping in the end and had to replace the e3d v6 assembly once.
Will follow this thread now. We have a Prusa MK3 and our Multi Extrusion Upgrade just came in. Excited to rebuild the printer!
Nothing's better to receive a kit and spend a weekend with your wife constructing it yourself. You'll always know where the kinks and problems are and how to repair it yourself.
Prusa are really cool printers!
Nothing's better to receive a kit and spend a weekend with your wife constructing it yourself. You'll always know where the kinks and problems are and how to repair it yourself.
Prusa are really cool printers!
There's some affordable / pseudo affordable printers using that technology, the problem is the processing: liquid resin is toxic and venomous so you must process the prints to clean any residue. Maker's muse made a video about that.
It's funny I was thinking about starting a 3D printing group on era so I'm glad somebody did lol. I've been tinkering with 3d printers for short while starting with a delta kit around 2015. I currently have a creality ender 3 pro and a monoprice delta mini so im looking forward to sharing what little i know for those that are starting out and also learning more from those are more experienced.
for creality fans. they just announced Ender 5 Plus $549
which they added some upgrades to ender 5 including bigger bed and glass plate. bltouch sensor, a new v2.2 board, dual z axis. they got touch screen now.
which they added some upgrades to ender 5 including bigger bed and glass plate. bltouch sensor, a new v2.2 board, dual z axis. they got touch screen now.
^^^
Man, I would love to pick that up, but I kickstarted the IVI 3d printer. Hopefully it comes to fruition, they're on a 2 month delay right now...
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If anyone is interested, Tested started posting their vids from last year (was a premium feature) of Adam and Broken Nerd (Darrell M, who makes awesome 3d models for 3d printing) making Knights of Ren costumes. Shows how he finished the pieces. Educational!
I think there's one more video missing.
Man, I would love to pick that up, but I kickstarted the IVI 3d printer. Hopefully it comes to fruition, they're on a 2 month delay right now...
----
If anyone is interested, Tested started posting their vids from last year (was a premium feature) of Adam and Broken Nerd (Darrell M, who makes awesome 3d models for 3d printing) making Knights of Ren costumes. Shows how he finished the pieces. Educational!
I think there's one more video missing.
I have a Creality CR-10Pro FDM printer and a Peopoly Moai resin printer at home, and I have access to Makerbot Replicator+ and a Z18 at work (public library). I've been very frustrated with the print adhesion on the Makerbot, though. We've put painter's tape, gaff tape, and manually re-leveled the print bed, and I still get poor raft adhesion. On top of that, I haven't been able to connect to any of our machines via Network. I have to manually connect my laptop to the printer via USB if I want to print anything out - which is very annoying. Am I missing something?
I have a reprap Wilson TS I've been printing on for 3 or 4 years now. Just upgraded it to stainless threaded rod and made some parts to strengthen the gantry. After replacing the threaded rods the z shifting I've had from the beginning went away, strengthening the gantry I believed helped some also my prints are looking a lot better.
Right now I'm building a new printer, of my own design, it's a Delta with a 25" build area. Yes it is huge.
Right now I'm building a new printer, of my own design, it's a Delta with a 25" build area. Yes it is huge.
Borosilicate glass plate with a thin layer of Elmer's glue stick applied for each print works the best in my experience. I've tested painter's tape(doesn't work), masking tape(works half of the time, bad bottom texture), kapton tape(very good bed adhesion, hard to apply).
Have you tried octoprint?
I use a borosilicate glass plate and 3d Gloop, with bigger prints I also heat the bed to 50C for PLA and 55C for PetG.
Almost everything is 3d printed on this 3d printer.
okay. so i ended up taking apart the fan and it wasn't shorted. while it cycled too many time in less than a minute it resumed all funny so the nozzle ended up just sitting inside the printed piece and just melted a bit of it and some of the stringing went into the fan so it just wound up in there. cleaned it out and all things are fine now. also upped the fan power to cool things down as its coming out. should help with faster cooling while i find a mount and wait for a longer 2pin cable to add a 2nd cooling fan.
We use anycubic photon printers at my company. Not what I'd call high end by any metric. Never used a rapidshape. What's the issue?
The prints come out with visible layers. Rapid shape insists it's a cleanliness issue, causing slight light dispersion. It's at a clients and I've been there like four times to clean the thing and it keeps happening. Client talked to a Rapid shape sales rep at an exhibition who told him it might be the platform transport is misaligned, and now he can't accept the cleanliness suggestion from support. Honestly I have supposedly more robust D30 and it prints fine even do I don't clean it as often as I should. But he does do a lot of milling in his office so I can't rule out dust. Soooo I don't know, he could be right, but he probably should work cleaner. If I had any other clients with a d20 I could compare but I don't.
Did the hulk bank (didn't read the comment so i didn't realize there was a solid version that's not a bank.)
also the size was a bit big for the printer so i had to drop it like 10% or so. somewhere along the print it created a hole near the neck but something went weird because of the lighter lines when it got near the chest.
will print the plug for the bottom later. but for now. i'll just try to fix that small hole. (i should buy a 3d pen on the cheaps)
also the size was a bit big for the printer so i had to drop it like 10% or so. somewhere along the print it created a hole near the neck but something went weird because of the lighter lines when it got near the chest.
will print the plug for the bottom later. but for now. i'll just try to fix that small hole. (i should buy a 3d pen on the cheaps)
I posted this on the Autodesk forum but no reply yet, so figure I'd try in here.
I found this square .stl file of the moon's surface from NASA.
I essentially want to cut out a circular portion of the moon surface like this...
Any help on doing this with Fusion 360 software? I'm guessing there are multiple ways but I'm not sure on the best path forward?
I found this square .stl file of the moon's surface from NASA.
I essentially want to cut out a circular portion of the moon surface like this...
Any help on doing this with Fusion 360 software? I'm guessing there are multiple ways but I'm not sure on the best path forward?
I only know CATIA but can quickly do it for you if you like. 😇I posted this on the Autodesk forum but no reply yet, so figure I'd try in here.
I found this square .stl file of the moon's surface from NASA.
I essentially want to cut out a circular portion of the moon surface like this...
Any help on doing this with Fusion 360 software? I'm guessing there are multiple ways but I'm not sure on the best path forward?
If you can then sure! I'm still going to try and figure it out. I want to use the "far side" model with the rougher surface.
I posted this on the Autodesk forum but no reply yet, so figure I'd try in here.
I found this square .stl file of the moon's surface from NASA.
I essentially want to cut out a circular portion of the moon surface like this...
Any help on doing this with Fusion 360 software? I'm guessing there are multiple ways but I'm not sure on the best path forward?
Import the STL as a mesh
Reduce the number of triangles
Convert to a solid body.
Create a circle sketch the size you'd like
Use "split body" to cut a circular portion out by selecting your circular sketch as a cutting tool. (If it ain't long enough, check "extend")
????
Profit!
Thanks... I'll try to follow this.
I'm reading though I should probably be using Mesh Mixer for this?
