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I play it on my Deck over playing on my OLED where my PC is. The image looks really good and there's something about it when playing on the Deck. I like much better for some reason.
Tiny Tina's Wonderlands Steam - Steam Deck Analysis and FSR 2.0!
Tiny Tina’s Wonderlands just launched on Steam after coming out on the Epic Games Store three months ago. This game was playable on the Steam Deck previously...youtu.be
Yeah this video isn't entirely indicative of Wonderlands performance. I'm at low settings DX 12 FSR 2 @ performance and I'm going from 40fps to the teens at Will in any random battle
Do I need to tweak the tech settings to get the most out of it?
I just locked mine to 40fps and that's it. I'm about to fire it up right now.
I swapped the delta fan for a huaying fan from ifixit. There's such a stark difference I can't believe Valve were ok with using the delta fan.
Heh I've had it for two days too and yep that's been my experience too. It just makes it harder to figure out if things are bugs or not. Just today I had so much trouble trying to connect to a hidden SSID access point and then suddenly three hours later it just worked.
Kind of bummed that the port of the switch dragon quest 11 de can't really run smoothly above 40, at least from me playing the demo.
On a related note, I feel like if you are going to travel to someplace that has less than ideal internet...don't plan on buying/dling games lol. Just imagine trying to dl like 100gb gta5 on hotel wifi. Can't use the device for half a day.
Maybe I should buy another microsd card....
On a related note, I feel like if you are going to travel to someplace that has less than ideal internet...don't plan on buying/dling games lol. Just imagine trying to dl like 100gb gta5 on hotel wifi. Can't use the device for half a day.
Maybe I should buy another microsd card....
I swapped the delta fan for a huaying fan from ifixit. There's such a stark difference I can't believe Valve were ok with using the delta fan.
Man I was hoping to grab one as I just placed my order on my Steam Deck, and they're sold out :(
I thought of maybe getting the new aya thats on indie go go now, but its not the same as getting a deck..
I got Cyberpunk, Tales of Arise, and Disco Elysium on the summer sale.
Been playing Arise for last couple hours on the Deck. Man it looks so good! Runs really well too! I played the demo on Series X before but didn't really enjoy it. So glad I gave it another chance the game is really fun so far.
Also, is there any reason 40fps can't become a standard for some console games? I'm playing almost all my games on Deck with 40fps and it feels so smooth.
Been playing Arise for last couple hours on the Deck. Man it looks so good! Runs really well too! I played the demo on Series X before but didn't really enjoy it. So glad I gave it another chance the game is really fun so far.
Also, is there any reason 40fps can't become a standard for some console games? I'm playing almost all my games on Deck with 40fps and it feels so smooth.
TVs don't support 40hz as a standard resolution so you need a newer 120hz TV to run at 40hz with proper frame pacing.
Can someone tell me how Crosscode plays on the Deck ,it's on sale and I quite fancy picking it up
I'll try this again. Do your sticks recenter perfectly when you check the calibration settings?
Thanks for replying. Still interested in more reports :)
My left stick used to recenter perfectly. But now, after a few months, I see that it's also slightly off center, but well within the default dead zone.
Thank you ,heard there were a few compatibility issues with it
1. Install game on Steam Deck
2. Install game on desktop
3. Download moguri mod on desktop, install there
4. Copy the directory after patching to Steam Deck
Way, way simpler than trying to apply the patch on Steam Deck.
I've been getting increasingly frustrated with the Steam Deck's d-pad, as a lot of the games I would want to play on it require precise directional inputs... and that d-pad ain't it. Cleaning up in some stuff in the house and I found a gutted Hori PS4 pad (a old Fighting Commander 4, if you're curious) and noticed that the d-pad on it is seemingly the same size as the one in the Steam Deck. I then got the really stupid idea of replacing the Steam Deck's internal d-pad with the one from the old Hori pad to see if that would work any better.
The dpad itself doesn't fit as the Steam Deck's d-pad isn't perfectly symmetrical, it turns out -- Left, in particular, is materially shorter than the other directions (presumably due to it running right up to the edge of the case). The directional pad itself is also on a circular disk, whereas the Steam Deck d-pad is a cross and doesn't have any material in between the cardinal directions, so those sections would need to be shaved down to fit (and who knows if cutting down Left that much would ruin it). It turns out my Dremel battery is shot, so that'll have to wait for another time. However, it turns out the rubber membrane from the Hori pad almost fits. Had to cut out a couple of bits so that the screw holes and mounting pegs wouldn't be blocked... and it, to my shock (and possible horror) works??? All of the games I was having issues with diagonal inputs (Melty Blood, Celeste, DJ Max, etc.) just stopped having those issues.
There is one additional gotcha: the replacement membrane doesn't have a rubber contact for Select on the Steam deck (why would it???), so I ended up having to buy a second membrane off of ifixit.com and sliced that one in half so I could install the rubber bit for Select alongside my hackjob.
TL;DR: I replaced the rubber membrane for the d-pad on the Steam Deck with one from an old Hori controller and it solved all of issues I was having with diagonals. I still might try to put the d-pad itself in the Deck but that feels like it would be styling for the sake of it (nothing wrong with that :V).
The dpad itself doesn't fit as the Steam Deck's d-pad isn't perfectly symmetrical, it turns out -- Left, in particular, is materially shorter than the other directions (presumably due to it running right up to the edge of the case). The directional pad itself is also on a circular disk, whereas the Steam Deck d-pad is a cross and doesn't have any material in between the cardinal directions, so those sections would need to be shaved down to fit (and who knows if cutting down Left that much would ruin it). It turns out my Dremel battery is shot, so that'll have to wait for another time. However, it turns out the rubber membrane from the Hori pad almost fits. Had to cut out a couple of bits so that the screw holes and mounting pegs wouldn't be blocked... and it, to my shock (and possible horror) works??? All of the games I was having issues with diagonal inputs (Melty Blood, Celeste, DJ Max, etc.) just stopped having those issues.
There is one additional gotcha: the replacement membrane doesn't have a rubber contact for Select on the Steam deck (why would it???), so I ended up having to buy a second membrane off of ifixit.com and sliced that one in half so I could install the rubber bit for Select alongside my hackjob.
TL;DR: I replaced the rubber membrane for the d-pad on the Steam Deck with one from an old Hori controller and it solved all of issues I was having with diagonals. I still might try to put the d-pad itself in the Deck but that feels like it would be styling for the sake of it (nothing wrong with that :V).
My left analog stick recenters perfectly, but the right is every so often a little to the down left of the center. Not much and it doesn't happen every time I test it, but it's there.
Haven't looked since I got mine (and tightened up the deadzones), but I'm pretty certain one of mine wasn't perfectly center even out of the box. As far as I'm concerned, this is just the state of joystick tech. It's why deadzones exist. I would never RMA over something like this unless it left you with a large deadzone requirement. And even then, if mine did develop a large drift over time, I'd just replace it with the HAL Gulikit joysticks.
Is it possible the Hori pad is just more worn? As someone who uses the d-pad quite a bit, it actually feels like it's loosened up some on my Deck. But I don't play fighters, so I can't speak about any precision improvements that may or may not have happened.
Thanks for checking :)
I agree that it's the nature of joysticks, and I will not RMA for this. It's a non-issue for me the vast majority of the time. But I did find that games where you use the stick to control a "mouse pointer", like the recent Blade Runner release, do not have any dead zone applied and thus even a slightly off-center stick can cause a bit of drift. That's my only issue so far, but I just changed the cursor control to the touchpad and disabled the stick for this game.
Assault Android Cactus is great and looks fantastic on the Deck. I've only played the opening mission on Deck to see if it works, but it seemed every bit as good as on my home PC, where I played it a lot. The energy system could perhaps be divisive and I'm not a fan of that part myself, but most people don't seem to be bothered by it.
Thanks! I think I may have gotten that in a bundle once, not sure I have played it but I own it. Will install today!
If it's locked to 40 yeah, tv will refresh 3 times per frame, same thing as 30fps on a 60hz screen pretty much where you have 2 refreshs for each frame.
Gutted that they never released the sequel from 360 on PC.
I think my tv supports 120 I forget though, it's a 6 year old 4k samsung
I haven't seen any videos of someone using 40 fps on a tv, I wish there was more info on this stuff going around
Yep, that's how Ratchet and Clank works, each frame is just displayed 3 times.
According to ProtonDB putting the following into the game's launch options should get it playable.
PROTON_NO_ESYNC=1 PROTON_NO_FSYNC=1 PULSE_LATENCY_MSEC=60 %command%Just tried it on the Deck and I was able to get through a quick easy mode arcade run from start to finish. Online mode and leaderboards appear to be non-functional though.
I literally mass copied whatever game I was currently playing when running through the ME trilogy and everything worked pretty much perfectly. Steam didn't get weird or fuck up verifying things
I am doing the same thing now with Dragon's Dogma. I use Winscp to do it and keep port 22 open on the deck.
I am doing the same thing now with Dragon's Dogma. I use Winscp to do it and keep port 22 open on the deck.
Hmm will try. Someone on there said this two weeks ago:
"Game freezes irreparably after completing the third stage (Fire Caverns)
Unfortunately this game needs work still. No getting around the issues fully that I've seen."
Were you able to play through that part with no issues?
How can I tell which one I have without opening up the Deck?I swapped the delta fan for a huaying fan from ifixit. There's such a stark difference I can't believe Valve were ok with using the delta fan.
That is possible, yeah - I also feel like my d-pad is slightly better than when I first got it, though it's still not really comfortable to input diagonals that use left (at least, that's what it kinda feels like). Maybe another month or so will change it...?
Yeah, unfortunate they never released Galaxies elsewhere, either - that was also a strong GW game, as I recall.
EDIT:
As far as I know, there's no externally visible indicator, other than just the sound.
You mean clicking the verify files button? I haven't verified a single file I've transferred and everything has worked flawlessly for me.
I do a google search to find out the game's app manifest number and just transfer the app manifest .acf file. The .acf files are all stored in the folder just before the common files. I think if you have the .acf file, Steam just assumes everything is all good.
Or I've just typed a bunch of non-sense. I don't think I have.
Kind of wish I knew exactly how bad the "good" fan was under load. I can't stand stuff running at 20+ watts, but I'm not entirely convinced it's the garbage fan.
People using Windows what setting are you using for power/sleep? Do you use hibernate option?
Mine is set to sleep after 5 mins. When I press power button after not using it couple of hours, I am hitting an error where only option is hard reboot.
Error I see reads: "D3D Device was removed due to DXGI_ERROR_DEVICE_REMOVED, this usually indicates you removed the device at runtime or performed a driver upgrade while running. Big Picture must exit." Whole screen glitches and freezes. I can't even click "OK" on error message box. It looks like Steam erroneously detects that controller is disconnected.
Based on error message I thought it is related to Big Picture mode and switched to normal mode. No luck. I'm not using any SD card. Nothing else is attached. Windows updates are paused. It isn't running out of battery either because each time this happened there was at least more than 30-40% battery left. I'm using Windows 11.
Mine is set to sleep after 5 mins. When I press power button after not using it couple of hours, I am hitting an error where only option is hard reboot.
Error I see reads: "D3D Device was removed due to DXGI_ERROR_DEVICE_REMOVED, this usually indicates you removed the device at runtime or performed a driver upgrade while running. Big Picture must exit." Whole screen glitches and freezes. I can't even click "OK" on error message box. It looks like Steam erroneously detects that controller is disconnected.
Based on error message I thought it is related to Big Picture mode and switched to normal mode. No luck. I'm not using any SD card. Nothing else is attached. Windows updates are paused. It isn't running out of battery either because each time this happened there was at least more than 30-40% battery left. I'm using Windows 11.
Weird, never had any issues just using the Deck's power button, wonder if it's a W11 thing? Worked fine on W10 for me even after sitting all night.
I did this and Steam left it alone. Unless the game gets patched (which is unlikely at this point) you'll be fine. But in order for it to work you first have to install it on the Deck, then overwrite the files with the modded ones. If you're talking about the origin version I'm not sure but I am guessing it is the same.
The only way to have Steam bork it is if:
a) game gets a patch
b) you chose to verify files on your own
c) move the game between ssd->sd card or vice versa.
I just spent another $100+ on games i can't play until my Steam Deck finally arrives. Huzzah!
You were supposed to be crankin' it not windows shopping the steam sale damnit.
That hidden gems steam sale thread is dangerous though.
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