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Sharc - The eArc device that can save you thousands as you prepare for Next Gen/Current PC Gaming

CrichtonKicks

CrichtonKicks

Member
Oct 25, 2017
11,181
Operations said:
For those connecting their PC to a LG CX oled and then to a AVR, is there any way to stop the speaker setup in Windows 10 to reset itself to stereo at random? This is driving me insane! Every time I choose Atmos for home theater, some games (eg. latest Capcom games like Resident Evil 2) reset it to stereo when launching, and no matter how many times I set it back, when alt-tabbing back to the game, it resets itself to stereo. The only workaround I found is to set the game to bordered sorry window and THEN setting the speaker setup to Atmos (totally inefficient as border less gaming usually suffers from worse performance than full screen).

Googling around tells me there is seemingly no solution, but the links are 3-4 years old so that gives me hope (eg https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us...g-itself/d487cd64-0f13-48bf-8a52-bce6924b5abf).

Anyone having this issue as well?
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I haven't had the issue because I haven't tried Atmos with PC but Atmos on Xbox hosed sound altogether on Series X when I switched it back to PCM. The Xbox was telling me that my soundbar wouldn't support even stereo PCM and the issue persisted between reboots of the Series X.

Eventually I had to actually set it to Bitstream DD in the Xbox control panel first to get any sound at all and then it let me switch to PCM 5.1. It was enough for me to swear off switching back to Atmos.
 
Kyle Cross

Kyle Cross

Member
Oct 25, 2017
8,411
The Sharc has started to disconnect when no audio's playing and then reconnecting when audio starts playing (resulting in missing the first few seconds of audio) when using it with my PC the last few days. I get that annoying audio pop I get when I power on/off things or change resolutions or inputs when it happens too. Super annoying as nothing physically changed in my setup.
 
fireworksordie

fireworksordie

Member
May 30, 2018
3,400
Kyle Cross said:
The Sharc has started to disconnect when no audio's playing and then reconnecting when audio starts playing (resulting in missing the first few seconds of audio) when using it with my PC the last few days. I get that annoying audio pop I get when I power on/off things or change resolutions or inputs when it happens too. Super annoying as nothing physically changed in my setup.
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does that with all audio on my lg cx out to my yamaha tsr-7580. hoping someone suggests a way to keep it "on", annoying always missing the first few seconds of every youtube video until it starts processing
 

hannes

Member
Dec 25, 2020
26
has anyone here with a CX got the latest firmware running? 03.21.09? I have not gotten it yet but apparently (release notes are not there yet) it should fix some eARC issues? Could that be it?? Solving the passthrough lipsync issues?
 
Mejilan

Mejilan

Member
Oct 27, 2017
1,836
hannes said:
has anyone here with a CX got the latest firmware running? 03.21.09? I have not gotten it yet but apparently (release notes are not there yet) it should fix some eARC issues? Could that be it?? Solving the passthrough lipsync issues?
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Pretty sure I got that firmware update a few days ago and haven't had any issues that I can trace to that. Not sure what the change log for the most recent CX update is, however. And I'd have to double-check the actual software version number that my TV is currently running. But I do want to say that I got an update either over the weekend or sometime last week.
 
IMACOMPUTA

IMACOMPUTA

Member
Oct 27, 2017
2,529
I have an LG C8 and an old Harman Kardon AVR-254 (no arc).

Currently I have everything going into the TV's HDMI ports directly, and I'm using an optical out to the receiver.

I know this device doesn't make sense for my situation, but thought with people dealing with similar issues I might get some advice on what my best option for lossless audio would be. My receiver won't pass 4k/HDR so I don't want to plug directly in to it, also I think it adds a ton of latency doing so.

I'm guessing I just need to get a new receiver.. any recommendations? Is everything out there still *AVOID* due to that hdmi 2.1 issue?
 
Transistor

Transistor

The Walnut King
Administrator
Oct 25, 2017
37,122
Washington, D.C.
IMACOMPUTA said:
I have an LG C8 and an old Harman Kardon AVR-254 (no arc).

Currently I have everything going into the TV's HDMI ports directly, and I'm using an optical out to the receiver.

I know this device doesn't make sense for my situation, but thought with people dealing with similar issues I might get some advice on what my best option for lossless audio would be. My receiver won't pass 4k/HDR so I don't want to plug directly in to it, also I think it adds a ton of latency doing so.

I'm guessing I just need to get a new receiver.. any recommendations? Is everything out there still *AVOID* due to that hdmi 2.1 issue?
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Since the C8 doesn't have eARC, your real best bet is to simply upgrade to a 2.1 receiver (when they've worked the kinks out)

As far as I know, all the current 2.1 issues have issues. Wait until the 2021 ones are announced.
 
Transistor

Transistor

The Walnut King
Administrator
Oct 25, 2017
37,122
Washington, D.C.
IMACOMPUTA said:
Good to know! Thanks for the heads up.
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Always happy to help :)


Kyle Cross said:
The Sharc has started to disconnect when no audio's playing and then reconnecting when audio starts playing (resulting in missing the first few seconds of audio) when using it with my PC the last few days. I get that annoying audio pop I get when I power on/off things or change resolutions or inputs when it happens too. Super annoying as nothing physically changed in my setup.
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Does that happen with the built in apps, too, or just with PC? Because I've had that issue with PC and receivers for a long time now.
 
Kyle Cross

Kyle Cross

Member
Oct 25, 2017
8,411
Transistor said:
Always happy to help :)



Does that happen with the built in apps, too, or just with PC? Because I've had that issue with PC and receivers for a long time now.
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Built in apps are fine when directly connected to my AVR, but first few seconds are muted with the Sharc. The PC didn't have this issue with Sharc for me till literally a few days ago.
 
Kyle Cross

Kyle Cross

Member
Oct 25, 2017
8,411
Transistor said:
Try it connected to a wall outlet and see if it gives the same issue. I had some weird stuff in the beginning with the CEC not working, but it went away with a wall outlet. I'm wondering if it limits the power draw at times or something.

Just throwing shit at the wall and seeing what sticks :P
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Alas, no dice. Really wanted that to be the solution to my woes cause it has helped devices in the past.
 

Unknown

Member
Oct 29, 2017
260
[Edit]

Nevermind, after sanity checking, the issue I was having (no CEC, e.g. volume) magically resolved itself somehow after leaving it running for a while. Weird. It definitely wasn't working at all yesterday.

[Edit 2]
CEC volume control is really laggy / inconsistent...? Sometimes will go up to +/- 15 volume from brief adjustments, other times won't change at all?
 
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HommePomme

HommePomme

Member
Oct 30, 2017
1,052
This device is so useful but I can't help but think it's a little crazy that it's needed in the first place. Why can't TVs just output audio over HDMI like they do with optical or like some blu-ray players have? No idea why ARC and eARC are even necessary... just pass through the audio via normal HDMI, thanks! Having to upgrade audio receivers to support new video formats is insane and should have never been how this all works.
 

hannes

Member
Dec 25, 2020
26
So I switched back up the first pin and for the first time ever I had brilliant lipsync sound, on my Series X, with Atmos!!! After being amazed and having watched several videos to confirm if it wasn't wishful thinking I plugged in my headset in the controller to join a party chat, turning off Atmos and defaulting to stereo on the receiver and enabling Atmos/sonic on the headset (by design as per Xbox). After leaving the chat and unplugging the headset it automatically switched back again to Dolby Atmos on my receiver and instantly I noticed the delay had returned. I genuinely do not get this inconsistency. The only reason I can think of is the new LG firmware update mentioning that it fixes some eARC connection issues. This makes sense to me; sometimes when the receiver switches to Atmos the TV doesn't correctly do the handshake with the sharc and it falls back to ARC rather than eARC, explaining why there is no automatic lipsync nor enough bandwidth for the Atmos track to passthrough.

now all I can do is wait for that CX firmware to become available again because they pulled it due to issues with peak brightness in HDR game mode.
 
gozu

gozu

Member
Oct 27, 2017
10,312
America
HommePomme said:
This device is so useful but I can't help but think it's a little crazy that it's needed in the first place. Why can't TVs just output audio over HDMI like they do with optical or like some blu-ray players have? No idea why ARC and eARC are even necessary... just pass through the audio via normal HDMI, thanks! Having to upgrade audio receivers to support new video formats is insane and should have never been how this all works.
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You have to understand. HDMI ports used to be easy and cheap before 2.1. An above average receiver in 2013 cost less than $400. Today, you'd be looking at over $1000 for the same brand and still only get ONE HDMI 2.1 port. It's truly crazy how expensive HDMI 2.1 is.

So there was no need to output audio over HDMI back then. You routed everything through your AVR. The core reason is "No need to complicate things with HDMI connection going both ways. The average joe can barely handle normal TV inputs."
 
guitarguy316

guitarguy316

Member
Nov 3, 2017
1,477
I'll add what's more annoying is that I don't think the TV makers spend any time trying to get these things to work right with their TVs. I doubt LG spends a lot of time trying to make sure the 2.1 features of audio work flawlessly.

For example, LG OLEDs have had av sync issues since they came out in 2015 and still do today.
 
Kyle Cross

Kyle Cross

Member
Oct 25, 2017
8,411
Is it safe to keep it perpetually powered on by having it plugged in the wall, or should it stay plugged into the TV to be powered on and off?
 
fireworksordie

fireworksordie

Member
May 30, 2018
3,400
hannes said:
The only reason I can think of is the new LG firmware update mentioning that it fixes some eARC connection issues. This makes sense to me; sometimes when the receiver switches to Atmos the TV doesn't correctly do the handshake with the sharc and it falls back to ARC rather than eARC, explaining why there is no automatic lipsync nor enough bandwidth for the Atmos track to passthrough.

now all I can do is wait for that CX firmware to become available again because they pulled it due to issues with peak brightness in HDR game mode.
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aren't you likely still on the new firmware, though? would be surprised if in pulling the new firmware they also rolled everyone back to the previous, but maybe lg does things unusually
 

hannes

Member
Dec 25, 2020
26
fireworksordie said:
aren't you likely still on the new firmware, though? would be surprised if in pulling the new firmware they also rolled everyone back to the previous, but maybe lg does things unusually
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ive never updated to the newer firmware as I had automatic updates turned off. Yesterday I tried downloading it the normal way and through engineering mode but they pulled it so I'm still on 30.11.25
 

DeliLo

Member
Nov 27, 2020
13
Ok updated to the latest LG CX firmware and it fixed the popping buzz on my SHARC when previewing Netflix and YouTube videos. Now it worked flawlessly woohoo!
 

Operations

Member
Oct 29, 2017
1,174
Finally got my Zone 2 but I'm afraid it doesn't do what I was expecting:

- If pin1 is down I don't get Atmos on Netflix (LG CX WebOS app) despite running 1.17; the app won't even show Atmos support and will output 5.1 instead (without the Zone2 I get Atmos without issues)

- I thought this would replace my existing ARC connection but the manual says to connect it to an HDMI INPUT; my original objective was to connect it to my existing HDMI ARC port of my Denon AVR so that my legacy consoles (Xbox One S, Switch) would still be able to remain connected to the AVR! The product is a bit misleading since the Zone 2 has a port 3 that says you can connect it to a "modern" eARC connection but alas it won't work with mine.

Anyone on my situation? Am I doing something wrong?
 

TitanicFall

Member
Nov 12, 2017
8,263
Operations said:
Finally got my Zone 2 but I'm afraid it doesn't do what I was expecting:

- If pin1 is down I don't get Atmos on Netflix (LG CX WebOS app) despite running 1.17; the app won't even show Atmos support and will output 5.1 instead (without the Zone2 I get Atmos without issues)

- I thought this would replace my existing ARC connection but the manual says to connect it to an HDMI INPUT; my original objective was to connect it to my existing HDMI ARC port of my Denon AVR so that my legacy consoles (Xbox One S, Switch) would still be able to remain connected to the AVR! The product is a bit misleading since the Zone 2 has a port 3 that says you can connect it to a "modern" eARC connection but alas it won't work with mine.

Anyone on my situation? Am I doing something wrong?
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Connect the hdmi out from your receiver to any of the available non-eARC ports on your TV.
 

Kubinsky

Member
Oct 29, 2017
51
Kyle Cross said:
LG CX. My receiver is an Onkyo TX-SR373.
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I have more the Same issues and setup, although a different AVR ( tx-nr656 )

does your receiver powers on automatically when starting the tv? I could swear mine used to do that in early november but now it stopped. Since a week or so it Switches off together with the tv so at least that's something..
 
Kyle Cross

Kyle Cross

Member
Oct 25, 2017
8,411
Kubinsky said:
I have more the Same issues and setup, although a different AVR ( tx-nr656 )

does your receiver powers on automatically when starting the tv? I could swear mine used to do that in early november but now it stopped. Since a week or so it Switches off together with the tv so at least that's something..
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I was never able to get it to with my CX, even when setting it up and it passing the "power" test. Worked flawlessly with my old B7 tho.
 

Operations

Member
Oct 29, 2017
1,174
TitanicFall said:
Not sure what you are talking about. Did you even try it? I have Apple TV and a Bluray player connected to the receiver, and PC and PS5 connected to TV. No issues.
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Tried that. Here's how everything is connected (before Sharc2):

AVR: connected to Switch, Xbox One and LG CX through ARC
LG CX: PS5, PC and to the AVR through arc

When I connect the Zone2 through port 3 to an AVR input (not ARC, which is now disconnected), PC and Ps5 work as well as internal apps (no Atmos for Netflix though). Xbox and Switch do not output anything, presumably because the Denon AVR is still outpouting through the genuine ARC HDMI output.

Connecting the Zone2 through port 2 doesn't solve anything.
 

TitanicFall

Member
Nov 12, 2017
8,263
Operations said:
Tried that. Here's how everything is connected (before Sharc2):

AVR: connected to Switch, Xbox One and LG CX through ARC
LG CX: PS5, PC and to the AVR through arc

When I connect the Zone2 through port 3 to an AVR input (not ARC, which is now disconnected), PC and Ps5 work as well as internal apps (no Atmos for Netflix though). Xbox and Switch do not output anything, presumably because the Denon AVR is still outpouting through the genuine ARC HDMI output.

Connecting the Zone2 through port 2 doesn't solve anything.
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My setup:
1.HDMI 2(eARC) on TV to Sharc eARC input
2. Sharc hdmi output to AVR DVD hdmi input
3. AVR HDMI output to HDMI 1 on TV

Anything else connected to the AVR should still output audio to your speaker system. The receiver sends the video from connected devices to your TV. If you're not even getting a video signal to the TV, then I'd double check your connections.
 

Operations

Member
Oct 29, 2017
1,174
TitanicFall said:
My setup:
1.HDMI 2(eARC) on TV to Sharc eARC input
2. Sharc hdmi output to AVR DVD hdmi input
3. AVR HDMI output to HDMI 1 on TV

Anything else connected to the AVR should still output audio to your speaker system. The receiver sends the video from connected devices to your TV. If you're not even getting a video signal to the TV, then I'd double check your connections.
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Thanks. I guess I missed step 3) from your list. My original understanding of how the Zone2 worked was that it enhanced the existing arc Connection so that everything wouldn't still be handled by the arc output of the AVR.This means you actually required two extra HDMI cables: the one that comes with the unit and one extra that will go from the avr arc to a new non-arc HDMI Tv input.

One more question: have you managed to get Atmos from your native Netflix app?
 

TitanicFall

Member
Nov 12, 2017
8,263
Operations said:
Thanks. I guess I missed step 3) from your list. My original understanding of how the Zone2 worked was that it enhanced the existing arc Connection so that everything wouldn't still be handled by the arc output of the AVR.This means you actually required two extra HDMI cables: the one that comes with the unit and one extra that will go from the avr arc to a new non-arc HDMI Tv input.

One more question: have you managed to get Atmos from your native Netflix app?
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I don't have Atmos speakers, and for whatever reason Dolby Atmos delivered via Dolby Digital+ container just shows as Dolby Digital+ on my receiver's display. However Atmos delivered via LPCM container does show as Atmos on the display indicator. I tested this by enabling Dolby Atmos in Windows, and then playing Shadow of the Tomb Raider. So Atmos passthrough to the receiver at least works.
 
Teamocil

Teamocil

Member
Oct 25, 2017
5,132
I'm going to give up and buy one of these. ridiculous that I need to pay another $150 to get my new TCL 6 Series and my Sonos Beam to stay fucking synced, but TV manufacturers are apparently so incompetent that some smart people figured out the problem and are selling a product to fix it. just unbelievable
 
Mike Works

Mike Works

Member
Oct 28, 2017
1,775
Just ordered one of these, should arrive this week.

I'm not audio-literate at all, so quick question: I have an LG C9 and I've read that the WEB OS apps (Netflix, Disney+, etc) don't offer high quality sound. I also have an Apple 4K TV... should I be using that for all of my streaming services instead, or is it the same deal?
 

hannes

Member
Dec 25, 2020
26
Mike Works said:
Just ordered one of these, should arrive this week.

I'm not audio-literate at all, so quick question: I have an LG C9 and I've read that the WEB OS apps (Netflix, Disney+, etc) don't offer high quality sound. I also have an Apple 4K TV... should I be using that for all of my streaming services instead, or is it the same deal?
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I can only speak from a CX owner perspective and it does output Dolby (Atmos) through the internal Apps too.
 
fireworksordie

fireworksordie

Member
May 30, 2018
3,400
is there anyone here successfully using their receiver to gain some extra hdmi 2.0 inputs while still being used with their shArc?

here's my setup currently:

hdmi1: xsx
hdmi2: shArc out to receiver
hdmi3: ps5

hdmi4 is currently pc which is a 2080ti which i only just learned is 2.0b, not 2.1, and therefore doesn't need to hog a whole hdmi port (unless running it through something else will be an issue that i'm not aware of). i'm hoping to plug it into the receiver and have receiver go out to hdmi4 but want to of course avoid the dreaded black feedback loop. or is it just way smarter to use one of those hdmi switches on amazon? i know i have some around but always found them to be pretty finicky.
 
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