Thanks. That makes this so much easier since the only thing I had even a little bit of heartburn with regarding the Sharc was losing access to the TV Youtube app. Now that's not a concern.
bless you, truly. that makes total sense and exactly what i was going for, i just totally lack any understanding around all the different surround configs. big codec nerd but anything with the word "dolby" is a jumble in my head.Short answer is Yes, Pin 1 DOWN is so you get sound from everything without changing settings, at the exchange of not being able to pass dolby atmos. There's more details in my linked comment earlier but it's a long read.
Yes, you can get DD+ up to 7.1 with Atmos metadata from the Netflix app, but the youtube app only seems to be able to produce stereo sound, regardless of your setup. But you can do this on regular ARC, you don't need the sharc for it.
In fact, the sharc makes it worse as you'd have to keep changing settings to go from getting DD+ from Netflix to using the youtube app and back.
is it expected that my xbox still complains when i try to set it to 7.1 uncompressed with Pin 1 Down?Short answer is Yes, Pin 1 DOWN is so you get sound from everything without changing settings, at the exchange of not being able to pass dolby atmos. There's more details in my linked comment earlier but it's a long read.
I don't understand the last part. My bad for not clarifying, wanted to ask if Netflix will play back in DD+ and YouTube in stereo via the SHARC without adjusting any settings. These are the current set up without SHARC on my end now. My main objective of the SHARC is so I can connect my gaming PC to my LGCX and play back 5.1 on my 2014 Denon AVR. The whole thing is moot if I have to manually adjust some thing for different app I use.
Firmware - Thenaudio
thenaudio.com
New firmware update for the regular SHARC. Version 1.57. Presumably the equivalent to 1.17 that my Zone-2 replacement unit came with, but I unintentionally overwrote with 1.15 because their stupid flasher executable doesn't have a Y/N prompt. 1.17 for the Zone-2 is not yet available for download, and I've yet to hear back regarding the email I sent.
SHARC 1.57 changelog:
Sounds like it expressly addresses the dip switch #1 down position thing.
- Some TVs started encoding PCM stereo from eARC resulting in mute condition on some receivers. This can happen e.g. when using TV internal apps such as YouTube stereo. Use DIP switch #1 in down position to support such encoding. Now also supports DD+ and Atmos in down -position.
probably why Mejilan's new one came with it down by defaultSo if I'm understanding this correctly- with the new firmware and dipswitch 1 down, you get DD+, Atmos, and stereo from internal TV apps? Why wouldn't this be the default condition moving forward versus having to manipulate the dipswitch?
because i too was trying to figure out why anyone wouldn't do switch 1 down now. hahaha
So if I'm understanding this correctly- with the new firmware and dipswitch 1 down, you get DD+, Atmos, and stereo from internal TV apps? Why wouldn't this be the default condition moving forward versus having to manipulate the dipswitch?
Well if nothing else changed the only reason to want pin1 UP would be if it's critical for you to get HD codecs from your blurays through the sharc to your AVR: DTS-MA and Dolby TrueHD (both standard and the Atmos-enhanced one).because i too was trying to figure out why anyone wouldn't do switch 1 down now. hahaha
I'm assuming with your first statement that you mean bitstream for decoding by the receiver won't pass, but anything decoded by the ps5 will, including hi def codecs on blu rays?Well if nothing else changed the only reason to want pin1 UP would be if it's critical for you to get HD codecs from your blurays through the sharc to your AVR: DTS-MA and Dolby TrueHD (both standard and the Atmos-enhanced one).
In any case this is a very welcome development, Pin1 Down should now cover the large majority of use cases with the least amount of hassle. We can make it the official first recommendation for new people coming into the thread: set Pin1 Down
I don't know what you mean by "proven" but I can confirm that I now have normal audio sync on SX using LPCM 5.1. I have not tried Bitstream DD. With Atmos there is still some lag but it is significantly improved from what I saw before I had the Sharc. Still noticeable enough for me to not use it for gaming. I suspect it's fine when viewing a movie encoded in Atmos but I haven't tested that myself.
You assume correctly.I'm assuming with your first statement that you mean bitstream for decoding by the receiver won't pass, but anything decoded by the ps5 will, including hi def codecs on blu rays?
Or do you mean it will be lossy for blu ray and UHD even if set to pcm for ps5 decoding?
In my testing when I plugged in the sharc, I did not find a combination that would allow for both DD+ from Netflix and Stereo sources to produce sound, even Netflix shows with only a stereo track would not play sound. You have to change the LG Audio Out setting to PCM to get sound from stereo sources, but then everything gets downmixed to stereo by the TV.
You are right that without the sharc, using plain Arc from the TV, you get both DD+ and Stereo, but then you cannot pass uncompressed surround from any other source.
The compromise I found works for me is to set the sharc pin 1 down, you don't have to mess with settings when changing sources, you get multichannel PCM from your PC or consoles, but surround sound from Netflix gets send through regular DD, not DD+. For me getting lagless 5.1 PCM from the PS5 is worth the downgrade in Netflix surround.
i´m getting DD+ [2/0 channels] for both Netflix stereo (e.g. Arrested Dev S01) and Youtube with the new firmware and pin1 down.Hi, can you please try the new firmware and see if now the TV app Netflix will output DD+ instead, together with YouTube stereo without having to toggle the pin. Thank you!
Version 1.57 Changes:
Some TVs started encoding PCM stereo from eARC resulting in mute condition on some receivers. This can happen e.g. when using TV internal apps such as YouTube stereo. Use DIP switch #1 in down position to support such encoding. Now also supports DD+ and Atmos in down -position.
Anyone had issues with Series X putting HDR games into SDR instead when resuming from standby since installing a Sharc? I don't see how Sharc could be the cause but I didn't notice this behavior until I installed it. When resuming an HDR game the Series X will no longer switch into HDR. I have to exit the game completely and restart it.
Again, not sure how the Sharc could be the culprit but I didn't notice the issue until the day the Sharc was installed and it's been persistent since then.
No way to update this on a Mac eh?It's been mentioned, but a bump for those that missed it might help.
Firmware 1.57 is out and seems to fix that stereo youtube issue:
here you go, from the piece of paper that´s included:Anyone know/recall what the other dip switches are for, by any chance?
here you go, from the piece of paper that´s included:
1: Legacy Mode
up - ATMOS/DTS:X/TrueHD/DTSMA ok
dn - only support basic formats
2: Resolution
up - Output video 1080p60
dn - Output video 720p60
3: CEC Wakeup
up - Disabled
dn - Enabled
4: Delay
up - eArc dynamic lipsync control
dn - fixed delay 40ms
So the Sharc firmware works on the Zone-2? I assumed not because they seem to have separate releases and Zone-2 doesn't have an update that addresses what 1.17 does. Also, are the patches cumulative? I have no idea what version mine came with so wondering if I could just grab the latest and it would include all the other updates.The replacement Zone-2 running firmware 1.17 and with dip switch #1 flipped down appears to be working in every possible sense, where the first unit they sent me (running FW 1.15 and with dip switch #1 set in the up position) failed to output any audio whatsoever. Not from the LG's internal streaming apps, the PS5, the Series X, the PS4 Pro, nothing.
I'm still not 100% convinced that it was worth the price, but since I paid it, I'm really fucking happy that I got it working. And all of the second-guessing I had with the first unit melted away when this one worked from the moment I plugged it in and set all of my consoles and devices back to 5.1 PCM. I used a Netflix "test pattern" episode to make sure that all 5.1 signals were getting routed to the right speakers, individually. PS5, Series X, PS4 Pro, and WebOS app. All work as they did before I got the new TV and was forced to use ARC because my old AVR doesn't support eARC or HDMI 2.1 features.
Even YouTube's stereo audio works. What a relief!
So the Sharc firmware works on the Zone-2? I assumed not because they seem to have separate releases and Zone-2 doesn't have an update that addresses what 1.17 does. Also, are the patches cumulative? I have no idea what version mine came with so wondering if I could just grab the latest and it would include all the other updates.
Whoops, my memory was off and I was thinking SHARC was on 1.17 and Zone-2 was on a lower version. My bad, yes, I knew they had different releases which was why I was confused by your post due to thinking 1.17 was SHARC's latest firmware. Bummer that you have to disconnect it from your entertainment system to hook it up to a computer each time you need to update it though. That's a pain in the ass.Zone-2 absolutely has its own firmware. Zone-2's 1.17 is the equivalent of the regular SHARC's 1.57. It's just that 1.57 went up like two days before the Zone-2's 1.17. And that's what I was waiting for.
I would NOT attempt to flash a SHARC firmware onto a Zone-2, or vice-versa. I would hope the installer would prevent such a thing from happening, but I wouldn't test it.
It still irks me that the executable doesn't have a Y/N prompt, because my replacement Zone-2 came with an early version of 1.17 on it, and I had no way of knowing that before I ran the 1.15 executable (the newest firmware uploaded to their website at the time), and the damn thing flashed 1.15 over the shipped 1.17 without any additional input from me. Then I had to wait a few days for them to actually release the 1.17 installer.
I would imagine that the updates are cumulative. I never saw any instructions indicating otherwise.
Whoops, my memory was off and I was thinking SHARC was on 1.17 and Zone-2 was on a lower version. My bad, yes, I knew they had different releases which was why I was confused by your post due to thinking 1.17 was SHARC's latest firmware. Bummer that you have to disconnect it from your entertainment system to hook it up to a computer each time you need to update it though. That's a pain in the ass.
Thanks. I have been having good luck with this new pin 1 down and audio decoding done by the PS5. Much less glitchy now and I am getting everything but Atmos that my receiver isn't capable of anyways.You assume correctly.
I don't have an Atmos setup yet, but I've always assumed that for it to work correctly the AVR, which knows the positions of the speakers in your setup, needs to be the one that looks at the Atmos metadata and render the per-object audio in realtime as it moves in the soundscape.
If you have the PS5 decode the bitstream and send PCM you'd get great quality audio but would lose Atmos, I'm thinking. And if I had a good atmos setup I know I'd want to use it at every opportunity.
As to your second question, if you leave the PS5 to do Bitstream for disc audio, you'll get the lossy core audio track. If you have pin1 Down you want the PS5 to do PCM disc audio decoding.
Thanks. I have been having good luck with this new pin 1 down and audio decoding done by the PS5. Much less glitchy now and I am getting everything but Atmos that my receiver isn't capable of anyways.
Yes it seems to be. The other method of passing bitstream was giving me dropouts and other frustrating issues, so this has been a nice break from constant fiddling to get sound back.Same. This seems to be the most optimal/versatile setup for folks with older AVRs.
My Series X, PS5, PS4 Pro, and even the LG WebOS native streaming apps are all delivering proper, individualized 5.1 streams when each device is set to output 5.1 Linear PCM signals. And even the WebOS Youtube's stereo signal is working.
Yes it seems to be. The other method of passing bitstream was giving me dropouts and other frustrating issues, so this has been a nice break from constant fiddling to get sound back.
I can now say that the only issues I've had lately is related to the CEC loop because of having my receiver HDMI out to the TV with other devices connected. I can always solve that by switching inputs on the receiver and back again. This will have to do until new 2.1 HDMI receivers with dual outputs are ready.
That is about as good as it gets atm and you really aren't missing out on much of anything with this method.I bought a $30-$40 5-way HDMI 2.0 splitter that supports signals up to 4K/60 FPS WITH HDR to connect all of my legacy devices too (particularly the PS4 Pro, which dropped off my LG CX when the PS5 and Series X arrived), so now not only has my PS4 Pro regained the pseudo-4K + HDR capabilities it briefly had when I got this new TV, but I basically have nothing connected to the AVR other than the SHARC Zone-2.
PS5 connects to the LG's 1st port. Series X to port 3. HDMI switch (supporting the PS3, PS4 Pro, Wii U, and Switch dock) to port 4. And I eARC to my AVR via port 2 and the SHARC Zone-2. This setup is basically perfect until working AVRs with a good 6 or more HDMI 2.1 ports start to hit the market, IMO.
That is about as good as it gets atm and you really aren't missing out on much of anything with this method.
Are you saying you got some WebOS apps to output PCM 5.1? teach us!Same. This seems to be the most optimal/versatile setup for folks with older AVRs.
My Series X, PS5, PS4 Pro, and even the LG WebOS native streaming apps are all delivering proper, individualized 5.1 streams when each device is set to output 5.1 Linear PCM signals. And even the WebOS Youtube's stereo signal is working.
Are you saying you got some WebOS apps to output PCM 5.1? teach us!
Yep CEC loop is the only annoyance left, you just have to find a way to reliably stop it when it starts. I get it when going into HDMI 3 on the LG, but my fix is to switch to HDMI 2 and a few seconds later when I see "HDMI" light up on the AVRs screen immediately switch back to HDMI 3 and then it works.Yes it seems to be. The other method of passing bitstream was giving me dropouts and other frustrating issues, so this has been a nice break from constant fiddling to get sound back.
I can now say that the only issues I've had lately is related to the CEC loop because of having my receiver HDMI out to the TV with other devices connected. I can always solve that by switching inputs on the receiver and back again. This will have to do until new 2.1 HDMI receivers with dual outputs are ready.
because i too was trying to figure out why anyone wouldn't do switch 1 down now. hahaha
Firmware - Thenaudio
thenaudio.com
New firmware update for the regular SHARC. Version 1.57. Presumably the equivalent to 1.17 that my Zone-2 replacement unit came with, but I unintentionally overwrote with 1.15 because their stupid flasher executable doesn't have a Y/N prompt. 1.17 for the Zone-2 is not yet available for download, and I've yet to hear back regarding the email I sent.
SHARC 1.57 changelog:
Sounds like it expressly addresses the dip switch #1 down position thing.
- Some TVs started encoding PCM stereo from eARC resulting in mute condition on some receivers. This can happen e.g. when using TV internal apps such as YouTube stereo. Use DIP switch #1 in down position to support such encoding. Now also supports DD+ and Atmos in down -position.
So I dont watch UHD or Blu Rays anymore.
All my movies are from vudu with atmos pr dd+
and I play 7.1 surround sound games on Xbox and some Atmos games
Will the down position make any of those things not true surround sound in the down position?
My AVR is too old to support Atmos, so it's not something I'd be able to test for you. I'm sorry.