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FliX

Master of the Reality Stone
Moderator
Oct 25, 2017
9,867
Metro Detroit
Hey everyone! I had a T. Rowe Price $401k at a previous employer that rolled over into an IRA with some company called Milennium Trust Company, which now has my balance in a .9% interest accruing account with a $40 yearly fee. Blech.

Any recommendations on what to do with this? It's not much, just under $2k. I figure I'll move it to a Roth IRA if possible or something? Just not really sure how to go about it. Thanks so much!
Yea. Move it to one of the often recommended brokerages around here. I.e. fidelity, vanguard or Schwab and then invest it in a low cost total market etf.
vanguard usually gets recommended first because it's a coop and has the longest track record of low cost investing. I have fidelity just because that is where my employer 401k was. It really makes little difference at the end of the day. Once you chosen one and opened an account we can recommend specific funds.
 

filkry

Member
Oct 25, 2017
1,892
Moving back to Canada after 7 years in the US, and damn, home prices are insane.

Honestly, buying a place will probably set back our retirement plans by 5-10 years, despite currently being at almost 60% of FIRE goal.
 

Rice Eater

Member
Oct 26, 2017
2,814
This has been on my mind for over a year now since I finally learned more about investing in my retirement and took it seriously. I've been paying for a life insurance policy with 5 of my other siblings for a long time now. I think it's been over 10 years of $89 per month.

But looking back at that it feels like such a huge waste of money. That could have gone into a Roth account instead and put me in the 20-30k range or something close to that. Both my parents look like they're in good shape and could live another 10+ years(dad is 76, mom is 71).

That being said, I don't remember for sure what the amount is. I think it's 100k a piece and it's so expensive because both were already over 60 when we started it. I'm going to visit my brother next weekend and I'm really thinking about talking about this since he started this policy and the rest of us just joined.

Like I said, I don't remember the amount. If it's 500k per then I'm not going anywhere lol. 250k is good enough considering the time I've put in. But if it's just 100k as I think I remember then man I feel like I should bail and cut my losses because I think both my parents will still be around for a pretty long time. That's also hoping some of my other brothers and sisters don't take issue with picking up the slack because of my departure.
 
Oct 27, 2017
21,517
This has been on my mind for over a year now since I finally learned more about investing in my retirement and took it seriously. I've been paying for a life insurance policy with 5 of my other siblings for a long time now. I think it's been over 10 years of $89 per month.

But looking back at that it feels like such a huge waste of money. That could have gone into a Roth account instead and put me in the 20-30k range or something close to that. Both my parents look like they're in good shape and could live another 10+ years(dad is 76, mom is 71).

That being said, I don't remember for sure what the amount is. I think it's 100k a piece and it's so expensive because both were already over 60 when we started it. I'm going to visit my brother next weekend and I'm really thinking about talking about this since he started this policy and the rest of us just joined.

Like I said, I don't remember the amount. If it's 500k per then I'm not going anywhere lol. 250k is good enough considering the time I've put in. But if it's just 100k as I think I remember then man I feel like I should bail and cut my losses because I think both my parents will still be around for a pretty long time. That's also hoping some of my other brothers and sisters don't take issue with picking up the slack because of my departure.
Whole life insurance policies are very expensive rip offs, which is what it sounds like you have. I don't even know why your brother started the policy - was he sold on it by an insurance agent?
 

Rice Eater

Member
Oct 26, 2017
2,814
Whole life insurance policies are very expensive rip offs, which is what it sounds like you have. I don't even know why your brother started the policy - was he sold on it by an insurance agent?

It's whole life and I think a cousin sold it to him. As for why he got it, my guess is probably the same reason the rest of us joined him. We're all financially illiterate, at least at the time when it came to this.

My wife even pushed for whole life when we talked about getting life insurance some time after that. I said no way in hell and laid out exactly why and my regret for joining with my siblings.
 

Smiley90

Member
Oct 25, 2017
8,730
This has been on my mind for over a year now since I finally learned more about investing in my retirement and took it seriously. I've been paying for a life insurance policy with 5 of my other siblings for a long time now. I think it's been over 10 years of $89 per month.

But looking back at that it feels like such a huge waste of money. That could have gone into a Roth account instead and put me in the 20-30k range or something close to that. Both my parents look like they're in good shape and could live another 10+ years(dad is 76, mom is 71).

That being said, I don't remember for sure what the amount is. I think it's 100k a piece and it's so expensive because both were already over 60 when we started it. I'm going to visit my brother next weekend and I'm really thinking about talking about this since he started this policy and the rest of us just joined.

Like I said, I don't remember the amount. If it's 500k per then I'm not going anywhere lol. 250k is good enough considering the time I've put in. But if it's just 100k as I think I remember then man I feel like I should bail and cut my losses because I think both my parents will still be around for a pretty long time. That's also hoping some of my other brothers and sisters don't take issue with picking up the slack because of my departure.

Only get life insurance for... The life insurance part. It's generally a really poor retirement vehicle...
 
Oct 27, 2017
21,517
It's whole life and I think a cousin sold it to him. As for why he got it, my guess is probably the same reason the rest of us joined him. We're all financially illiterate, at least at the time when it came to this.

My wife even pushed for whole life when we talked about getting life insurance some time after that. I said no way in hell and laid out exactly why and my regret for joining with my siblings.
If you need a life insurance policy because you have dependents, than get a term policy that goes through when they won't rely on your income any more. They're cheaper and can make sense.
Whole life policies, annuities and all that are expensive nonsense that are never worth the cost unless it's some pretty specific circumstances.
Your cousin fucked y'all and got a big commission (probably the first year's worth of premium) for doing so.
 

Rice Eater

Member
Oct 26, 2017
2,814
If you need a life insurance policy because you have dependents, than get a term policy that goes through when they won't rely on your income any more. They're cheaper and can make sense.
Whole life policies, annuities and all that are expensive nonsense that are never worth the cost unless it's some pretty specific circumstances.
Your cousin fucked y'all and got a big commission (probably the first year's worth of premium) for doing so.

I did my homework last year, we got a cheap term life through work. I think it's 30 years or so. Honestly, this hit me like a brick last year when I got laid off during the beginning of COVID. I came across some investing videos, watched them, and it really opened my eyes. And made me realize what a big mistake I made joining the whole life policy.

The 6 of us range from mid 30's to mid 40's. I don't mean to speak for them but I really do think we were all ignorant about whole vs term and probably thought term wasn't worth it since there wasn't this big pay out(depending on the circumstances) that we heard about a lot growing up.

So yeah we're paying over $500 a month for the two of them. Assuming it's been at least 10 years, that means I've contributed nearly 11k to this LOL. Man that money could have been used so much better and made me so much more, up to this point and the next so many years.
 
Oct 27, 2017
21,517
I did my homework last year, we got a cheap term life through work. I think it's 30 years or so. Honestly, this hit me like a brick last year when I got laid off during the beginning of COVID. I came across some investing videos, watched them, and it really opened my eyes. And made me realize what a big mistake I made joining the whole life policy.

The 6 of us range from mid 30's to mid 40's. I don't mean to speak for them but I really do think we were all ignorant about whole vs term and probably thought term wasn't worth it since there wasn't this big pay out(depending on the circumstances) that we heard about a lot growing up.

So yeah we're paying over $500 a month for the two of them. Assuming it's been at least 10 years, that means I've contributed nearly 11k to this LOL. Man that money could have been used so much better and made me so much more, up to this point and the next so many years.
I wouldn't be too upset with yourself, it's not like we can all know everything about everything. I just know because I was an insurance agent (property and casualty only, no life insurance) for several years before leaving the industry to do my own thing.
The one thing to look out for when it comes to life insurance through work is if you lose/leave your job does the policy end? Because now you're back in the market for another policy but older.
 
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TheTrinity

TheTrinity

Member
Oct 25, 2017
713
Yikes, yeah. Insurance is protection against financial loss. Adult children (who are presumably independent) having life insurance on their parents makes zero sense because they would not suffer any financial loss from a parent dying.

Which leaves this as some kind of odd investment strategy.

I would advise bailing out of this, but it could be tricky because presumably you would want something back for the money you put in. Everyone would have to agree to pro-rate out a portion of any payout to you based on the amount you put in before you stopped (assuming they keep it going).
 
Oct 25, 2017
4,118
I feel kind of ghoulish for asking this, but how do trusts work?

Background:

My father-in-law passed away last week and had an amount in two trusts, one for him and one for his wife who passed away ~15 years ago, that he was loving off of (+SS and a pension.) He was pretty private with his finances so we never really knew what was going on, although he lived well enough that we assumed he didn't need any financial help.

My wife and her sisters met with the lawyer last Friday to discuss how the trusts are structured and meeting with the bank today to get the actual amounts in the trusts. From what I can tell, trusts can be set up to do just about whatever the person that sets it up wants, but the lawyer did say my wife and her sisters have the option to either distribute the funds from the trust to them or roll the trusts for FIL & MIL in to trusts for each of the siblings (there are probably other options, but my wife isn't very comfortable with financial discussions. I'm not either, but I muddle through.)

The lawyer also indicated there there were tax advantages to waiting until next year to do whatever we end up doing with the funds. What could those advantages be? I thought a trust's funds passed outside of probate and the amount we're talking about isn't anywhere near the limit for inheritance taxes to kick in ($11m, right?) I also thought the cash basis reset on the date of the death of the beneficiary, so wouldn't moving the funds ASAP minimize potential capital gains?

If we roll the funds in to a new trust, how would we access the money?

If we take the disbursement, I know my wife will want to pay off the house (there's almost certainly going to be enough to do that.) Some rough Excel work I did seems to indicate we'd end up with more money in the end by investing that amount and paying the mortgage as usual. Which way is generally recommended?
 

Blergmeister

Member
Oct 27, 2017
342
I'm not qualified to talk about trusts so I'm going to not... but this below I've seen healthy discussion on.

If we take the disbursement, I know my wife will want to pay off the house (there's almost certainly going to be enough to do that.) Some rough Excel work I did seems to indicate we'd end up with more money in the end by investing that amount and paying the mortgage as usual. Which way is generally recommended?

What the consensus seems to be is that generally yes, you make more long term by investing that money while making your normal regular mortgage payments, it's also fair to pay off the mortgage just for the psychological impact of not having that debt hang over you. Truly is what you feel more comfortable with.
 

Cilidra

A friend is worth more than a million Venezuelan$
Member
Oct 25, 2017
1,489
Ottawa
I feel kind of ghoulish for asking this, but how do trusts work?

Background:

My father-in-law passed away last week and had an amount in two trusts, one for him and one for his wife who passed away ~15 years ago, that he was loving off of (+SS and a pension.) He was pretty private with his finances so we never really knew what was going on, although he lived well enough that we assumed he didn't need any financial help.

My wife and her sisters met with the lawyer last Friday to discuss how the trusts are structured and meeting with the bank today to get the actual amounts in the trusts. From what I can tell, trusts can be set up to do just about whatever the person that sets it up wants, but the lawyer did say my wife and her sisters have the option to either distribute the funds from the trust to them or roll the trusts for FIL & MIL in to trusts for each of the siblings (there are probably other options, but my wife isn't very comfortable with financial discussions. I'm not either, but I muddle through.)

The lawyer also indicated there there were tax advantages to waiting until next year to do whatever we end up doing with the funds. What could those advantages be? I thought a trust's funds passed outside of probate and the amount we're talking about isn't anywhere near the limit for inheritance taxes to kick in ($11m, right?) I also thought the cash basis reset on the date of the death of the beneficiary, so wouldn't moving the funds ASAP minimize potential capital gains?

If we roll the funds in to a new trust, how would we access the money?

If we take the disbursement, I know my wife will want to pay off the house (there's almost certainly going to be enough to do that.) Some rough Excel work I did seems to indicate we'd end up with more money in the end by investing that amount and paying the mortgage as usual. Which way is generally recommended?
I do not know enough about trust funds to answer that part.

As for paying back the mortgage versus investing it, then yes investing it is more likely to generate more wealth over time. That said, it is a bit riskier.
Personnally, I am a big fan of leveraging by doing relatively safe investments (index funds, etc) and have been in the slow mortgage repayment camp since forever and have done very well by doing so.
 

Servbot24

The Fallen
Oct 25, 2017
43,065
Newbie question: I have a $6000 annual contribution limit for Fidelity ROTH IRA. I can't tell the reason for this… it seems like a very low number? I need to figure out the best way to continue investing more since I am easily hitting that limit.
 

Sheepinator

Member
Jul 25, 2018
27,955
Newbie question: I have a $6000 annual contribution limit for Fidelity ROTH IRA. I can't tell the reason for this… it seems like a very low number? I need to figure out the best way to continue investing more since I am easily hitting that limit.
With a normal taxable investment account, put in as much as you want. The Roth is limited like that because of the tax benefits it provides.
 

Chaosblade

Resettlement Advisor
Member
Oct 25, 2017
6,589
Newbie question: I have a $6000 annual contribution limit for Fidelity ROTH IRA. I can't tell the reason for this… it seems like a very low number? I need to figure out the best way to continue investing more since I am easily hitting that limit.
Tax advantaged accounts/limits:
IRA (Roth/traditional): $6000
You're already investing in a Roth so there's probably not much to add here.

HSA (if applicable): $3600 single/$7200 family
HSAs are available if you have qualifying high deductible health insurance plan ($1400 individual/$2800 family deductible). They are actually the most tax-advantaged accounts possible because as long as your withdraws are for qualifying medical expenses, you pay no tax on the money going in (pre-tax/tax deductible), no tax on the investment returns, and no tax when you withdraw. Definitely has limitations, but considering medical expenses are generally the biggest ongoing expenses for a retiree, it makes for a good long term investment account.

401K: $19500
Usually traditional but it can be Roth. You should be contributing up to any possible company match at minimum, but if you have exhausted the above then there's no reason not to invest more here if you can afford it. The limits only apply to your contribution, not any company contributions. There's a separate limit for that but it's absurdly high and unrealistic to meet.
 

Servbot24

The Fallen
Oct 25, 2017
43,065
Tax advantaged accounts/limits:
IRA (Roth/traditional): $6000
You're already investing in a Roth so there's probably not much to add here.

HSA (if applicable): $3600 single/$7200 family
HSAs are available if you have qualifying high deductible health insurance plan ($1400 individual/$2800 family deductible). They are actually the most tax-advantaged accounts possible because as long as your withdraws are for qualifying medical expenses, you pay no tax on the money going in (pre-tax/tax deductible), no tax on the investment returns, and no tax when you withdraw. Definitely has limitations, but considering medical expenses are generally the biggest ongoing expenses for a retiree, it makes for a good long term investment account.

401K: $19500
Usually traditional but it can be Roth. You should be contributing up to any possible company match at minimum, but if you have exhausted the above then there's no reason not to invest more here if you can afford it. The limits only apply to your contribution, not any company contributions. There's a separate limit for that but it's absurdly high and unrealistic to meet.
Thank you very much! I already use all of those with 10% salary going to 401k. I guess for now I'll just increase my 401k contribution even more.
 

Sheepinator

Member
Jul 25, 2018
27,955
Thank you very much! I already use all of those with 10% salary going to 401k. I guess for now I'll just increase my 401k contribution even more.
Y'know, minimum security prison is no picnic. I have a client in there right now. He says the trick is: kick someone's ass the first day, or become someone's bitch. Then everything will be all right.

You can contribute a total of $6K (or $7K after age 50) to all your IRA's combined.
 

Servbot24

The Fallen
Oct 25, 2017
43,065
Y'know, minimum security prison is no picnic. I have a client in there right now. He says the trick is: kick someone's ass the first day, or become someone's bitch. Then everything will be all right.

You can contribute a total of $6K (or $7K after age 50) to all your IRA's combined.
Huh? I'm giving 6k to my ROTH IRA. The HSA and 401k are not IRAs are they?
 

Deleted member 5876

Big Seller
Banned
Oct 25, 2017
2,559
What the consensus seems to be is that generally yes, you make more long term by investing that money while making your normal regular mortgage payments, it's also fair to pay off the mortgage just for the psychological impact of not having that debt hang over you. Truly is what you feel more comfortable with.

The other thing to consider is there are tax benefits for paying property taxes. Less so since Trumps tax changes but still there.
Another option is to pay off some percentage of the mortgage and then refinance. Put the rest into investments. This will lower the mortgage payment and still let you invest a chunk of money. Use the difference in your lower payment to either invest more per month, or make extra payments towards your mortgage, or for whatever.
 

reKon

Member
Oct 25, 2017
13,708
Working on my extended tax return for 2020.

I'm pretty sure Webull gave me a wrong 1099-B by showing my gain as long-term even though the holding period was under one year...

And I believe they report this information to IRS. How do mess up something this simple?

Unless I'm just completely missing something...
 

reKon

Member
Oct 25, 2017
13,708
Working on my extended tax return for 2020.

I'm pretty sure Webull gave me a wrong 1099-B by showing my gain as long-term even though the holding period was under one year...

And I believe they report this information to IRS. How do mess up something this simple?

Unless I'm just completely missing something...
Webull support got back to me... Apparently since it was free stock, it's classified under the inheritance code which reports the transactions as long term? Not sure if that makes sense, especially if some of the free stock was classified as short term but w/e
 

shintoki

Member
Oct 25, 2017
15,079
Looking for a bit of input. So I accepted a new job offer and looking over the plans.

They have a high PPO for 60$, only 20$ copays, no deductible, even hospital copay is 200$.
Then they have a PPO Plus HSA which is 70$. I'm a bit confused at why the PPO with a 1.5k deductible is more expensive then the High PPO. They put in 500$ a year, but the real the difference is only 250$ due to the pricing. At my old job the HSA was like 40$, while the High PPO was 70$. It made sense, this not as much. Is an HSA really worth paying more for the plan? I would still commit the max to it, but it seems a bit off.

Opinions?
 

Deleted member 5876

Big Seller
Banned
Oct 25, 2017
2,559
Looking for a bit of input. So I accepted a new job offer and looking over the plans.

They have a high PPO for 60$, only 20$ copays, no deductible, even hospital copay is 200$.
Then they have a PPO Plus HSA which is 70$. I'm a bit confused at why the PPO with a 1.5k deductible is more expensive then the High PPO. They put in 500$ a year, but the real the difference is only 250$ due to the pricing. At my old job the HSA was like 40$, while the High PPO was 70$. It made sense, this not as much. Is an HSA really worth paying more for the plan? I would still commit the max to it, but it seems a bit off.

Opinions?

One advantage with the HSA option is that you can take it with you if you leave for a different employer. Usually when you do that the HSA provider starts charging you more to "maintain" the HSA account but you can transfer it to Fidelity HSA pretty easily I think and they will have a better fee structure.

If this were my situation I'd spring for the HSA option because you are paying a little more to get tax free growth that you can invest assuming you never want to take the money out - which to get the full real benefit you don't really want to touch it until your old and have "real" medical costs.
 
Oct 29, 2017
2,550
I need some help figuring out my retirement accounts. I just started a new job, my third career job which will be my third 401k account. I rolled out my 401k from my first job (no Roth) into a personal account on vanguard. Should I rollout my second jobs 401k (I just left this place. 3/4 is my Roth contributions the rest the company's 401k match) to my personal account and keep two 401k accounts, or should I roll everything into my works new 401k? The new job uses fidelity for the retirement plan.
 

demosthenes

Member
Oct 25, 2017
11,589
I need some help figuring out my retirement accounts. I just started a new job, my third career job which will be my third 401k account. I rolled out my 401k from my first job (no Roth) into a personal account on vanguard. Should I rollout my second jobs 401k (I just left this place. 3/4 is my Roth contributions the rest the company's 401k match) to my personal account and keep two 401k accounts, or should I roll everything into my works new 401k? The new job uses fidelity for the retirement plan.

why not roll 2nd job to Vanguard too?
 
Oct 29, 2017
2,550
why not roll 2nd job to Vanguard too?
That's an option as well! I keep hearing that you should only have one retirement account. I'm not sure how smart/feasible that is though. If I roll my 2nd job into vanguard will the Roth amount be in a separate account vs the 401k amount? Am I going to end up with a bunch of sub accounts in vanguard at the end of my career? 😂
 

demosthenes

Member
Oct 25, 2017
11,589
That's an option as well! I keep hearing that you should only have one retirement account. I'm not sure how smart/feasible that is though. If I roll my 2nd job into vanguard will the Roth amount be in a separate account vs the 401k amount? Am I going to end up with a bunch of sub accounts in vanguard at the end of my career? 😂

while I haven't done it myself. I imagine it will split the traditional and Roth contributions only. It wouldn't split by job. But I haven't done this before. I assume vanguard has something on their site.
 

reKon

Member
Oct 25, 2017
13,708
I still struggle to actually invest some of my contributions in accounts like my HSA. Things are almost too good in the market. I didn't get as much of an October correction as I liked. 5%ish is just weak...
 

SonicXtreme

Member
Oct 27, 2017
1,713
I keep hearing that you should only have one retirement account.
Why? I keep my old company's 401ks, as long as there aren't excess fees for not being employed anymore , why wouldn't you? For me, my former employer 401ks are the only way i can get direct access to own those companies in a 401k. So why would i roll them all into my current employer and lose access to the tax sheltered investment opportunity in my old company i couldn't get otherwise?
 

reKon

Member
Oct 25, 2017
13,708
Why? I keep my old company's 401ks, as long as there aren't excess fees for not being employed anymore , why wouldn't you? For me, my former employer 401ks are the only way i can get direct access to own those companies in a 401k. So why would i roll them all into my current employer and lose access to the tax sheltered investment opportunity in my old company i couldn't get otherwise?


I can think of a couple of potential reasons to roll over a 401K, but not to have 1 retirement account (this just sounds like terrible planning advice)

1) If you wanted to have more funds available to take a loan against within a single 401K account (not that I would recommend doing that, but having that option is nice!). I think some providers may let you still take loans even with an old employer, but I doubt that it's common.

2) If you had ROTH 401K and have a goal of early retirement, you could roll that account over to a ROTH IRA and now you suddenly have a ton of contributions (which you made to the 401K over time) that can be taken out tax and penalty free. It also open up the opportunity for significantly more investment options.

I'm actually considering doing number #2 above at some point.
 

RBH

Official ERA expert on Third Party Football
Member
Nov 2, 2017
32,859
Hello friends

I need some advice on how to invest in an HSA

My new employer is offering an HSA through Optum Bank if I get their high deductible health plan (monthly premium of $64, deductible of $2800).

Here are the contribution limits and employer contribution (I am in my 30's and currently single with no dependents):



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And these are the investment options available in the HSA:



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I currently already have around $40k in a Vanguard Roth IRA in a 2050 Target Fund (and I'm planning on doing a backdoor Roth IRA since my income has increased just now). I like the idea of target funds in general since I'd rather just set it and forget it, but just wanted to see if there's a better way to proceed given the options available here.

Thank you!
 

MaxDOL

Member
Oct 31, 2017
194
Hello friends

I need some advice on how to invest in an HSA

My new employer is offering an HSA through Optum Bank if I get their high deductible health plan (monthly premium of $64, deductible of $2800).

Here are the contribution limits and employer contribution (I am in my 30's and currently single with no dependents):

I currently already have around $40k in a Vanguard Roth IRA in a 2050 Target Fund (and I'm planning on doing a backdoor Roth IRA since my income has increased just now). I like the idea of target funds in general since I'd rather just set it and forget it, but just wanted to see if there's a better way to proceed given the options available here.

Thank you!
Well if you like one fund solution/set it and forget then I suggest 2 main options.
It between Schwab Target Index Funds or Vanguard LifeStrategy Funds.Both are asset allocation fund that contain US stocks, International stocks and bonds in a single fund just like your Vanguard 2050 Target Fund.
The difference between Schwab Target Index Fund and Vanguard LifeStrategy is that Vanguard holding will always be constant. So if you choose Vanguard LifeStrategy Growth(VASGX) which is hold 80% stocks and 20% bonds, the stocks/bonds propotion will always stay at 80/20. Schwab Target 2060 Index Funds on the other hand will decrease it stocks holding every year and increase its bond holding until the year 2060 to decrease risk.
So if you want constant holding choose Vanguard LifeStrategy Funds with the stocks/bonds propotion that suit your risk.
Choose Schwab Target Index Funds if you want to decrease the fund risk level when you get older.
 

Chaosblade

Resettlement Advisor
Member
Oct 25, 2017
6,589
What's your goal with the HSA? Do you want it to serve as a second retirement account that you won't touch at all, or do you plan on spending some out of it for medical expenses in the nearer future?

As a retirement account, the same advice applies as a 401K or IRA. If target date is your preference, there's nothing wrong with that option.

If you think you might dip into it for medical expenses, you might want a more balanced approach, like one of the LifeStrategy funds or a mix of VITSX and VBTIX.

Overall that's a nice set of funds for a HSA. A lot better than mine. I have some Vanguard funds, but have to pay a small extra fee for them. Still comes out cheaper than the ~1% alternatives though.



Unrelated personal achievement: broke 100k in my 401K, and closing in on 100k in my IRA. In my early 30s and make a little over 30k/year. Compound interest is magical. Stay the course and buy the dips!
 
OP
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TheTrinity

TheTrinity

Member
Oct 25, 2017
713
Unrelated personal achievement: broke 100k in my 401K, and closing in on 100k in my IRA. In my early 30s and make a little over 30k/year. Compound interest is magical. Stay the course and buy the dips!

That's very impressive I have to say. Did you start very early?
I'm the same age and about 100k ahead of you but I'm at 5x your salary so that's not very impressive is it lol.

Always a bit disappointing to think where I could've been if I had started 5 years sooner instead of a debacle of a situation with a condo.

But anyway, congrats! You must do some crazy saving.
 

Chaosblade

Resettlement Advisor
Member
Oct 25, 2017
6,589
That's very impressive I have to say. Did you start very early?
Started the 401K at the company match immediately on getting my first job. IRA came a bit later.

Single (mostly no kids) with low expenses goes a long way towards having money to invest. Initially lived with my parents and saved a lot, but even when I moved out I made sure my expenses would be low.
 

Deleted member 5876

Big Seller
Banned
Oct 25, 2017
2,559
That's very impressive I have to say. Did you start very early?
I'm the same age and about 100k ahead of you but I'm at 5x your salary so that's not very impressive is it lol.

I mean it makes sense though. There is a per year cap on the amount you can possibly contribute to an IRA and 401k.
What you should be asking yourself is do you have any other investments outside of your IRA/401k? And if you are still in the same ballpark as TheTrinity in that regard then maybe you should consider saving more (if you want).

It's also not a competition and everyone has a different level of comfort here.
 

RBH

Official ERA expert on Third Party Football
Member
Nov 2, 2017
32,859
Well if you like one fund solution/set it and forget then I suggest 2 main options.
It between Schwab Target Index Funds or Vanguard LifeStrategy Funds.Both are asset allocation fund that contain US stocks, International stocks and bonds in a single fund just like your Vanguard 2050 Target Fund.
The difference between Schwab Target Index Fund and Vanguard LifeStrategy is that Vanguard holding will always be constant. So if you choose Vanguard LifeStrategy Growth(VASGX) which is hold 80% stocks and 20% bonds, the stocks/bonds propotion will always stay at 80/20. Schwab Target 2060 Index Funds on the other hand will decrease it stocks holding every year and increase its bond holding until the year 2060 to decrease risk.
So if you want constant holding choose Vanguard LifeStrategy Funds with the stocks/bonds propotion that suit your risk.
Choose Schwab Target Index Funds if you want to decrease the fund risk level when you get older.

What's your goal with the HSA? Do you want it to serve as a second retirement account that you won't touch at all, or do you plan on spending some out of it for medical expenses in the nearer future?

As a retirement account, the same advice applies as a 401K or IRA. If target date is your preference, there's nothing wrong with that option.

If you think you might dip into it for medical expenses, you might want a more balanced approach, like one of the LifeStrategy funds or a mix of VITSX and VBTIX.

Overall that's a nice set of funds for a HSA. A lot better than mine. I have some Vanguard funds, but have to pay a small extra fee for them. Still comes out cheaper than the ~1% alternatives though.



Unrelated personal achievement: broke 100k in my 401K, and closing in on 100k in my IRA. In my early 30s and make a little over 30k/year. Compound interest is magical. Stay the course and buy the dips!
Thank you!

My main goal is to use it as an additional retirement account that I won't try to touch. Might just do the Schwab target index 2050 fund
 

Dr. Feel Good

Member
Oct 25, 2017
3,996
Can someone help me understand my employer offering an after-tax retirement account on top of my 401k? I currently max out my 401k, do a back door Roth IRA (make too much to do standard way) and buy $20K in discounted stock from my employer annually. Should I also be doing this after tax account? They mention they do daily sweeps to allow for tax free growth but I'm not completely understanding that.
 

feline fury

Member
Dec 8, 2017
1,539
Can someone help me understand my employer offering an after-tax retirement account on top of my 401k? I currently max out my 401k, do a back door Roth IRA (make too much to do standard way) and buy $20K in discounted stock from my employer annually. Should I also be doing this after tax account? They mention they do daily sweeps to allow for tax free growth but I'm not completely understanding that.
Daily sweeps sounds amazing. My employer only allows in service rollovers twice a year and I have to call Vanguard + wait for snail mail forms + send it back snail mail each time.

By contributing and rolling over into a Roth, you can supercharge your tax advantaged accounts past the regular limits. Better do it before they close the loophole in the BBB lol.

www.nerdwallet.com

Mega Backdoor Roths: How They Work - NerdWallet

A mega backdoor Roth lets people save up to $40,500 in 2023. But not all 401(k) plans allow them.
 

Dr. Feel Good

Member
Oct 25, 2017
3,996
Daily sweeps sounds amazing. My employer only allows in service rollovers twice a year and I have to call Vanguard + wait for snail mail forms + send it back snail mail each time.

By contributing and rolling over into a Roth, you can supercharge your tax advantaged accounts past the regular limits. Better do it before they close the loophole in the BBB lol.

www.nerdwallet.com

Mega Backdoor Roths: How They Work - NerdWallet

A mega backdoor Roth lets people save up to $40,500 in 2023. But not all 401(k) plans allow them.

This is helpful, thank you! Our household income is ~$330,000. At this rate we are doing the following annually:
  • 401K Max - $19,500 + 19,500 = $39,000
  • 401K Employee Match (6% each) - $1,170 + $1,170 = $2,340
  • Backdoor Roth - $6,000 + $6,000 = $12,000
  • Employee Stock Purchase Plan (15% Discount) - $20,000 (which I hold for a year and then resell and convert into index funds)
  • Dollar Average Automated Index Fund Purchase - $1,600 / month = $19,200
  • Increase to Savings Account - $1,500 / month = $18,000 (I know this is probably not ideal but I like having cash cushion, I'll probably stop in ~12 months)
  • Total = $110,540 / year or ~33% of pre-tax income
Putting another ~$37,000 into Mega Roth (as only I am eligible for it, my wife is not I believe?) would probably take a hit to our standard of living at this point (wouldn't crush us or anything but we still like to have a decent life). Would it be advantageous to mix shift what I'm doing above to prioritize Mega Roth (the savings is a no brainer I'm sure but curious on ideal strategy)?
 

Smiley90

Member
Oct 25, 2017
8,730
My employer will soon allow reduced stock purchases, but no explanation of how it works... Is there usually some kind of "minimum hold time" before you're allowed to sell them?
 

Dr. Feel Good

Member
Oct 25, 2017
3,996
My employer will soon allow reduced stock purchases, but no explanation of how it works... Is there usually some kind of "minimum hold time" before you're allowed to sell them?

i think so. They normally distribute quarterly from a holding account and then you have restrictions on a sell period which is normally 12 months. At 15% discount for me the stock isn't volatile enough to be concerned so holding it and simply reselling when eligible gives me some fairly guaranteed upside which I just reinvest.
 

Chaosblade

Resettlement Advisor
Member
Oct 25, 2017
6,589
My employer will soon allow reduced stock purchases, but no explanation of how it works... Is there usually some kind of "minimum hold time" before you're allowed to sell them?
Probably. As an example similar to the above, my boss's boss has mentioned to me before that his vested after 12 months on a quarterly basis.
 

Smiley90

Member
Oct 25, 2017
8,730
i think so. They normally distribute quarterly from a holding account and then you have restrictions on a sell period which is normally 12 months. At 15% discount for me the stock isn't volatile enough to be concerned so holding it and simply reselling when eligible gives me some fairly guaranteed upside which I just reinvest.

Yeah ours is a 15% discount too. A year to get 15% profit seems like a no-brainer.