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Sanguine

Member
Jun 10, 2018
1,276
Do you pay taxes when selling from a money market mutual fund (i.e. like Vanguard's) or is it only the interest that is taxed (like a bank's savings account)? The best I can tell it's typically only the interest so you can move money in and out easily (with a limit of 6 per statement cycle/month) because the money market funds try to match $1 so there really isn't any gains to be taxed and unless the value of the fund drops below $1 (which is supposed to be rare), there wouldn't be any taxes?
 

vemodalen

Member
Nov 14, 2017
137
My Roth IRA was with Capital One 360 and the powers that be switched it to E*Trade so now my commissions are $6.95/trade. Is there somewhere I can move this over to with lower commissions and how do I go about doing so? Do I have to pay a fee to roll it over to somewhere new? Thanks.
 

Linkura

Member
Oct 25, 2017
19,943
My Roth IRA was with Capital One 360 and the powers that be switched it to E*Trade so now my commissions are $6.95/trade. Is there somewhere I can move this over to with lower commissions and how do I go about doing so? Do I have to pay a fee to roll it over to somewhere new? Thanks.
Wtf my fee is $19.95, which is what it was with 360.

I just bite it. $20/yr isn't huge to me since I dump in the entire year at once. It is bullshit if you're doing monthly contributions, etc though.
 

Smiley90

Member
Oct 25, 2017
8,729
Do you pay taxes when selling from a money market mutual fund (i.e. like Vanguard's) or is it only the interest that is taxed (like a bank's savings account)? The best I can tell it's typically only the interest so you can move money in and out easily (with a limit of 6 per statement cycle/month) because the money market funds try to match $1 so there really isn't any gains to be taxed and unless the value of the fund drops below $1 (which is supposed to be rare), there wouldn't be any taxes?

you pay taxes on any source of income - that includes capital gains (the profit between what you spent on an investment and what you sold it for) and any interest gained.
 
OP
OP
TheTrinity

TheTrinity

Member
Oct 25, 2017
713
You're in the retirement thread, not the day trading thread. We don't look kindly upon such fancy graphs around here. 😜
Damn straight.
There's relatively massive losses over this last quarter of the year but I'm not going to be pulling out graphs to look at when I should have sold or something.
New contributions will 'rebalance' towards the international funds which have lost ground and it'll all turn out over ~10 years.
 
Oct 27, 2017
21,513
My Roth IRA was with Capital One 360 and the powers that be switched it to E*Trade so now my commissions are $6.95/trade. Is there somewhere I can move this over to with lower commissions and how do I go about doing so? Do I have to pay a fee to roll it over to somewhere new? Thanks.

I switched from Principal Funds to Schwab several years ago. You set up the new Roth IRA, supply info about your existing Roth IRA, and they'll do the work of moving the money over. Once the money had been moved you can take it out of the existing funds and put it into the commision free funds available to you. I didn't pay any fees for the transfer.
I'm sure it works the same if you wanted to move over to Vanguard.
 

Mr.Mike

Member
Oct 25, 2017
1,677
Statistics about TFSAs are published 2 years after a tax year ends. Recently the TFSA stats for 2016 have been released.

In 2016 13.47 million TFSA holders held a total of $232,896,180,000 CAD in assets in their TFSAs. 1.39 million Canadians had maxed out TFSAs at the end of 2016.

Remarkably income doesn't seem to actually matter all that much when it comes to how much people are able to save except at the extremes.

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3f8ce2be-d09f-4655-a1f6-57ab4ea9a499.png

Anyway, my takeaway from this is that savings rates have a lot more to with personality than with income. Like, what the fuck is going on that only a third of TFSA holders making more than $250,000 a year have their TFSAs maxed out? It seems to suggest that the upper-bound of how many people would save seriously if they "had money" is about a third.
 

AndyD

Mambo Number PS5
Member
Oct 27, 2017
8,602
Nashville
My question now is do I fund my Roth day one in January, or wait for this supposed "recession" in April/May.
 

zulux21

Member
Oct 25, 2017
20,343
alright after looking over my finances a lot, I have figured out that over the next 3 years I can clear my 46k in student debt (potentially saving me about 16k in interest by paying it off in 3 instead of 11 years)

I also know that once I pay it off my credit score is likely to take a hit since I will lose healthy debt and a good chunk of my credit history as I only started getting credit cards a few years ago.

my question is, over the course of these 3 years while I get rid of my debt, what can I do in order to build up my credit score as best as I can. I figure getting a few more high limit credit cards won't be a bad idea (as long as they don't have annual fees) but what else can I do?

and then after 3 years I will start worrying about asking for how I should invest my money, as to pull off the payment I'm going to be dumping about 1.5k a month into the loan so I won't have much left over to invest beyond what I already put in in the 401k I have that is employer matched to the max value I'm putting in.
 

FliX

Master of the Reality Stone
Moderator
Oct 25, 2017
9,863
Metro Detroit
alright after looking over my finances a lot, I have figured out that over the next 3 years I can clear my 46k in student debt (potentially saving me about 16k in interest by paying it off in 3 instead of 11 years)

I also know that once I pay it off my credit score is likely to take a hit since I will lose healthy debt and a good chunk of my credit history as I only started getting credit cards a few years ago.

my question is, over the course of these 3 years while I get rid of my debt, what can I do in order to build up my credit score as best as I can. I figure getting a few more high limit credit cards won't be a bad idea (as long as they don't have annual fees) but what else can I do?

and then after 3 years I will start worrying about asking for how I should invest my money, as to pull off the payment I'm going to be dumping about 1.5k a month into the loan so I won't have much left over to invest beyond what I already put in in the 401k I have that is employer matched to the max value I'm putting in.
I doubt your credit score would take a hit from you aggressively paying of your student loans. In order to maintain your credit score just use a regular credit card for regular purchases and be sure to pay it off in full every month. Try to keep your utilization rate at ~30ish%.
 

zulux21

Member
Oct 25, 2017
20,343
I doubt your credit score would take a hit from you aggressively paying of your student loans. In order to maintain your credit score just use a regular credit card for regular purchases and be sure to pay it off in full every month. Try to keep your utilization rate at ~30ish%.
I know a few people who took a hit once their loans got paid off because it removed the oldest credit from their history.

I also know though that it didn't take that long to recover, but in general I'm just trying to do what I can to prepare for the future.

After I get this debt cleared I plan on taking the money I was paying into it and putting into basically whatever this thread recommends lol.

I don't want to worry about money once I retire, I just want to enjoy retirement. I work with far to many people who are 60+ who live paycheck to paycheck.
 

FliX

Master of the Reality Stone
Moderator
Oct 25, 2017
9,863
Metro Detroit
I know a few people who took a hit once their loans got paid off because it removed the oldest credit from their history.

I also know though that it didn't take that long to recover, but in general I'm just trying to do what I can to prepare for the future.

After I get this debt cleared I plan on taking the money I was paying into it and putting into basically whatever this thread recommends lol.

I don't want to worry about money once I retire, I just want to enjoy retirement. I work with far to many people who are 60+ who live paycheck to paycheck.
Good attitude to have. We will be here to help any way we can. :)
So you didn't have any credit cards or anything while you accrued your student debt?
 

zulux21

Member
Oct 25, 2017
20,343
Good attitude to have. We will be here to help any way we can. :)
So you didn't have any credit cards or anything while you accrued your student debt?
no, my credit cards start about 18 months ago or so. while my student debt was accured from 2004-2009

when I last checked my credit score was 830 which is good, and I want to keep it up there the best I can. I figure it's about time to get another credit card to increase my available credit, just haven't decided which one I want yet.

I was raised to believe that credit cards were evil, and it took me far to long to figure out they are vital to building good credit, and if done right good ways to get free money from stuff I would buy anyways :P
 
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Prax

Member
Oct 25, 2017
3,755
The feeling of knowing my husband and I contributed more than 10k in the year and it looks like we only contributed 5k lol.
It's going to be a rough 10+ years.
 

Mr.Mike

Member
Oct 25, 2017
1,677
Canadian Couch Potato: iShares Launches All-in-One ETF Portfolios

Back in February, writing about the newly launched Vanguard's asset allocation ETFs, I asked why it had taken so long for someone to create an ETF version of the traditional balanced index mutual fund. Now, just 10 months later, Canadian investors who want to build an ETF portfolio with a single trade can choose between two excellent options.

This month, BlackRock Canada launched two one-fund solutions of their own: the iShares Core Balanced ETF Portfolio (XBAL) and the iShares Core Growth ETF Portfolio (XGRO). Like the Vanguard products, these new funds hold several underlying stock and bond ETFs to create a fully diversified portfolio.

Unlike their Vanguard counterparts, however, the new iShares funds are not brand new products. Rather, they're a reboot of two older funds: the iShares Balanced Income CorePortfolio Index ETF (CBD) and iShares Balanced Growth CorePortfolio Index ETF (CBN). These ETFs had been around since 2007, but they never gained meaningful assets, probably due to their relatively high fees (about 0.75%) and confused strategy (non-traditional indexes, sector funds).

The revamped versions are far more appropriate for Couch Potato investors, as they include only cap-weighted index funds covering the major asset classes. XBAL has a long-term target of 40% bonds and 60% stocks, while XGRO is more aggressive with 20% bonds and 80% stocks. The overall asset mix is broken down as follows:

...

iShares vs. Vanguard: How do they differ?

If you're already familiar with Vanguard's asset allocation ETFs, you've noticed that these new iShares offerings are quite similar to the Vanguard Balanced ETF Portfolio (VBAL) and the Vanguard Growth ETF Portfolio (VGRO), right down to the names and ticker symbols. But the iShares ETFs have a few differences in strategy:


No international bonds. The fixed income allocation of the iShares ETFs is made up of 80% Canadian and 20% US bonds, with no allocation to international bonds. The Vanguard asset allocation ETFs, by contrast, includes a blend of Canadian, US and global fixed income.


More corporate bonds. The Vanguard ETFs use only broad-market bond funds, which include mostly government bonds and a smaller amount of corporates. The new iShares funds tilt more toward corporate bonds by adding XSH as about 20% of the Canadian fixed income allocation, and by splitting the US component equally between Treasury bonds and corporates. This makes the iShares funds slightly more risky than their Vanguard counterparts, though all of the bonds are investment grade (no high-yield bonds).


A different mix of Canadian, US, and international equities. XBAL and XGRO allocate a greater share to US stocks (45% of the overall equity allocation) compared with their Vanguard counterparts (40%). The share allotted to Canadian stocks is correspondingly lower at 25% of the overall equity target, compared with 30% in the Vanguard funds.


In both the iShares and Vanguard products, overseas stocks make up about 30% of the equity allocation, but emerging markets make up a smaller proportion in XBAL and XGRO compared with VBAL and VGRO.


Here is the approximate breakdown in each fund:

...

Lower fee. iShares has always been very competitive on fees, and with these new ETFs they have undercut Vanguard by four basis points: the new funds both have a management fee of 0.18%, compared with 0.22% for VBAL and VGRO. (This includes the fees on the underlying ETFs: there is never any double-dipping on fees in "funds of funds.") Once taxes are added to that management fee, expect the MER of the iShares funds to be about 0.20% or 0.21%.

Before you buy

I've done my best to help investors compare the strategies of the iShares and Vanguard all-in-one ETFs, which leads to the obvious question: which one is a better choice?


Based on what we know about their strategies and costs, I have no strong preference for one over the other. They are all excellent products, and they're likely to perform very similarly over time, with any variance being the result of randomness and not any structural feature.


If you're doing more comparison shopping, here's an important thing to be aware of: because XBAL and XGRO are new mandates for ETFs with a relatively long history (their predecessors were launched 11 years ago), their past performance history is entirely meaningless. As of November 30, 2018, for example, XBAL's webpage reports an annualized return of 7.41% over the last 10 years. But this performance was what the old CBD racked up with a completely different strategy, so it has zero relevance going forward.


If you're interested in seeing how the XBAL and XGRO strategies would have performed in the past (using index data minus the ETFs' current fee), my colleague Justin Bender has backtested both the iShares and Vanguard asset allocation ETFs and published the results on his Model ETF Portfolios page.


Justin's backtest suggests you can spare yourself any hand-wringing over the iShares vs. Vanguard decision. Over the 20-year period ending November 30, the performance of the comparable ETFs was within a couple of basis points in both returns and volatility.

Avoid a New Year's surprise

Just one more caveat: if you're attracted to XGRO and you're planning to invest in a taxable account, do not buy this ETF until January 2019. That's because the new mandate of the fund resulted in significant capital gains being realized as the old holdings were sold and replaced. When ETFs and mutual funds realize gains, they pass these along to unitholders at the end of the year. That means if you buy these ETFs in late December, you'll pay taxes on the capital gains realized before you owned the units—it's like being handed the bill for dinner at a restaurant even though you showed up after dessert.


iShares has estimated that the capital gains distribution for XGRO will be a whopping 6.84% of its net asset value. If that number is accurate, a $10,000 purchase (about 500 shares) could result in a capital gain distribution of $684, half of which would be taxable at your marginal rate. You can avoid this tax trap by waiting until the new year to purchase the ETF. (iShares does not expect there to be a similar capital gain distribution for XBAL.)

I don't intend to switch, and I imagine the trading costs of switching would come out greater than what I would save from a few basis points. Regardless, I hope this new competition drives Vanguard to drop their fees a few basis points.
 

Prax

Member
Oct 25, 2017
3,755
Canadian Couch Potato: iShares Launches All-in-One ETF Portfolios



I don't intend to switch, and I imagine the trading costs of switching would come out greater than what I would save from a few basis points. Regardless, I hope this new competition drives Vanguard to drop their fees a few basis points.
I also just saw that! Maybe I should start contributing to this one as well? Haha. It's just be owning ETFs that cover 80% of the same stocks probably.. Is there actually any advantage?
 

Prax

Member
Oct 25, 2017
3,755
What were you investing in to lose 50%? The markets haven't been down that much…
We each contribute about 125/week in general index etfs via robo advisor (so like XIC, VTI, etc but a diversified and aggressive portfolio that includes foreign stock). So that's ~ 6500 a year each. But it looks like we only gained.. 3k each by year's end? \'w'/
I do not know why it be the way it be. Perhaps dollar cost averaging is working against me right now haha.
 

Mr.Mike

Member
Oct 25, 2017
1,677
Any money that was already in there would be going down at the same time. So if they hadn't been contributing the account might be down ~9k.

Personally I've been contributing just enough over the last month or so to keep my account value the same as VGRO has been going down, so that's fun.

At least my year end dividends might buy a few more units of VGRO than they would have a few months ago.
 

demosthenes

Member
Oct 25, 2017
11,587
Just set up the transfer for my yearly IRA savings to my checking so I can fund on 1/1, yay for down markets @ IRA time.
 

evilpigking

Member
Oct 25, 2017
128
maybe ill start an ira this year. Thought I had one going but it was just my 403b..., for the vanguard funds is it better to do an etf or Mutual or does it not really matter
 
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Prax

Member
Oct 25, 2017
3,755
Any money that was already in there would be going down at the same time. So if they hadn't been contributing the account might be down ~9k.

Personally I've been contributing just enough over the last month or so to keep my account value the same as VGRO has been going down, so that's fun.

At least my year end dividends might buy a few more units of VGRO than they would have a few months ago.
Yeah, all the money previously in there is collapsing while I put money on top of it, so it's just seems like i'm barely keeping things above the same value for the year's end.

Looking forward to dividends and making contributions as usual though. I want to try my best to stick to the plan. Too bad I was hoping for to have more renovation money for the end of 2019 but I guess using line of credit for that would be better instead at this rate to avoid locking in losses? HMMM..
 
OP
OP
TheTrinity

TheTrinity

Member
Oct 25, 2017
713
It doesn't matter if we're at the bottom or not. Just buy as usual with a little background thought of "At least it's cheaper now than it was 6 months ago!"
I suppose the point is don't throw in extra money that you wouldn't have otherwise though.
 

Cation

The Fallen
Oct 28, 2017
3,603
Lol I hope this is the bottom, hopefully trump chills for a bit and the dems get out of their lame duck period soooooon
 

reKon

Member
Oct 25, 2017
13,702
That feeling when you don't feel bad pushing to kill your variable rate student loan that's just gone over 6.2% and it keeps moving upward... Rather than buying ETFs and stocks..
 

Deleted member 17402

User requested account closure
Banned
Oct 27, 2017
7,125
Really wondering if today I should reinvest the money I pulled out of VFIAX two months ago into VFIAX again. It was valued at $256 when I pulled out and now it's at $216. Don't really like to time the market but I know that if this isn't the bottom and I put my money in today only to see it go down even further that I'll be pretty down.
 

vypek

Member
Oct 25, 2017
12,532
Happy New Year, Retirement ERA.

One of my resolutions is to improve my finances this year and late last year I started working on things already like reducing my contribution to my 401k to match the max my employer will put in. I read the OP but still have a few questions/concerns that I need help with before I open an IRA. If any of them aren't suitable for this thread please let me know or direct me to resources that would answer them.

1) Does it matter which brokerage firm someone invests with? The ones I see the most are Fidelity, Vanguard, Charles Schwab and TD Ameritrade with Fidelity and Vanguard being the ones I see the most about and with comparisons between them. I'm leaning towards one of those two but don't know if its inconsequential or if there is something to consider there.

2) When I open a Roth IRA I can choose funds that will comprise that, right? So if those funds have a minimum investment amount, does that count towards how the IRA yearly limit? For example, doing a minimum investment on two index funds that require $3,000 minimum would stop you form contributing to your Roth IRA?

3) As a confirmation, contribution limits are based around calendar year right?

4) If a person puts $1,000 into their IRA but the expense ratio cuts down how much is put into the funds, is the money that was used for the expense ratio not counted against the contribution limit?

5) What happens if you attempt to place more than the contribution limit to your funds?

6) Contribution limits remain the same across any number of IRAs, is there ever a reason why someone should have multiple IRAs?

7) If I want to sit back and do nothing with my IRA then I should select target date funds but if I want to have more control I should ignore target date funds and rebalance at least once per year?

8) If I wanted to use the strategy of increasing my percentage of bonds over time with my age, is there a guideline or general consensus of how much the bond allocation should be by the time I retire or a percentage your bond allocation should go up each year?

9) Is it possible to do a direct deposit into an IRA or do you have to manually add funds?

10) I was originally thinking of using something like Fundrise cause I wanted to get passive income but heard it was a bad idea for various reasons and then thought I could do that by investing instead but it seems like dividends are advised to be reinvested automatically. Is this because dividends being invested will end up making someone more money then just coming back to their pocket? Is there any time investing is advised to be used as passive income or should I look elsewhere for that?

11) Is there any point to using services like Betterment or Wealthfront or are those a waste?

12) I was looking at some of the Vanguard funds listed in the OP:
VTSMX, VGTSX, VBMFX

But it looks like those are closed so I can build my IRA out of those funds. They do have something called admiral shares which are open for $3,000 minimum investment (VTSAX, VTIAX, and VBTLX respectively). When I was checking these out on Fidelity's site it seems that Fidelity has comparable index funds that have no minimum and also lower expense ratios (FSKAX, FTIHX, and FXNAX). Given those factors, it looks like signing up with Fidelity and using those index funds is a good way for me to go. Is this correct or is there something I'm not missing that should make me weigh other options?

13) Finally, I have a friend who also wants to start investing in her future but her job doesn't offer a 401k and the money she makes leaves her with only a little after her expenses. But she wants to use that money to invest for retirement. I obviously don't have the knowledge to give advice. Is an IRA the best option still or is there some other course of action in this kind of scenario?



I know this is a really long post with a ton of question so a pre-emptive thank you to anyone who can help with any of the questions. It is really appreciated.
 

FliX

Master of the Reality Stone
Moderator
Oct 25, 2017
9,863
Metro Detroit
One of my resolutions is to improve my finances this year and late last year I started working on things already like reducing my contribution to my 401k to match the max my employer will put in.
???

I'll try my best and keep it short.
  1. Doesn't really matter too much between Vanguard and Fidelity. I am 100% with Fidelity because that is where my 401k is and I wanted to have everything in one place. Elsewise I would have gone with Vanguard because of their ownership structure.
  2. I would avoid trying to mix and match your IRA, especially when you are starting out. Just go with the 100% ETF World index. That way you don't need to concern yourself with minimums.
  3. yes, but I think you can still contribute until March (?) of the following year.
  4. I think if you contribute $1000 you will see $1000 in your account on day one. Fees will be carved off under the surface during the year. Not sure about the technicalities of that. But really it's nothing to worry about...
  5. Not sure, I doubt most systems would allow it to happen. On my HSA I had to pay a tax penalty in the following year.
  6. No good reason that I can see. Try to keep it simple for your own sanity and financial well being.
  7. That's what I chose to do.
  8. Up to debate, some say your age in bonds, but that is super conservative. I have next to no bonds and no interest in them in the near term.
  9. Depends on your brokerage I guess. I draw money from my bank to my Fidelity account and once it has cleared I can then buy with it in my individual accounts
  10. let the ETF fund just automatically reinvest dividends. This saves you hassle and more importantly capital gains tax. Assuming you have a steady income I would not worry about passive income.
  11. No, huge waste of money.
  12. Different funds have different levels (primarily governing expense ratios). if you only have $1000 to invest you will be paying higher running fees than if you start off with $10k. However once you have accumulated that threshold value in your account it will automatically switch (at least at Fidelity) to the cheaper option. The funds will contain the identical distribution but have different symbols.
  13. Yes IRA is the way to go. Traditional or Roth depends on the circumstances.
 

vypek

Member
Oct 25, 2017
12,532
???

I'll try my best and keep it short.
  1. Doesn't really matter too much between Vanguard and Fidelity. I am 100% with Fidelity because that is where my 401k is and I wanted to have everything in one place. Elsewise I would have gone with Vanguard because of their ownership structure.
  2. I would avoid trying to mix and match your IRA, especially when you are starting out. Just go with the 100% ETF World index. That way you don't need to concern yourself with minimums.
  3. yes, but I think you can still contribute until March (?) of the following year.
  4. I think if you contribute $1000 you will see $1000 in your account on day one. Fees will be carved off under the surface during the year. Not sure about the technicalities of that. But really it's nothing to worry about...
  5. Not sure, I doubt most systems would allow it to happen. On my HSA I had to pay a tax penalty in the following year.
  6. No good reason that I can see. Try to keep it simple for your own sanity and financial well being.
  7. That's what I chose to do.
  8. Up to debate, some say your age in bonds, but that is super conservative. I have next to no bonds and no interest in them in the near term.
  9. Depends on your brokerage I guess. I draw money from my bank to my Fidelity account and once it has cleared I can then buy with it in my individual accounts
  10. let the ETF fund just automatically reinvest dividends. This saves you hassle and more importantly capital gains tax. Assuming you have a steady income I would not worry about passive income.
  11. No, huge waste of money.
  12. Different funds have different levels (primarily governing expense ratios). if you only have $1000 to invest you will be paying higher running fees than if you start off with $10k. However once you have accumulated that threshold value in your account it will automatically switch (at least at Fidelity) to the cheaper option. The funds will contain the identical distribution but have different symbols.
  13. Yes IRA is the way to go. Traditional or Roth depends on the circumstances.
Thank you so much. Your answers really are appreciated. I thought posters might answer a couple answers here or there but I didn't think anyone would go out of their way to address the whole list. I'm really thankful and feeling a lot better about my plans to start investing for retirement. It feels so daunting.

There are just a couple things I'm confused about on #2 and #3 if you don't mind answering. I thought mixing and matching domestic, international, and bonds from index funds were how to set up an IRA. You're saying that instead of selecting multiple different things that I mentioned in #12 that I should just go with a certain ETF? I googled ETF World Index and getting results that seem to point me to MSCI. That is what I should go with to start my path with an IRA?

And less importantly, if its by calendar year but people can contribute until March, then how is it decided which year a contribution goes to? For example, if people yesterday just put in the full $6,000 - is that a 2018 or 2019 contribution?
 

FliX

Master of the Reality Stone
Moderator
Oct 25, 2017
9,863
Metro Detroit
Thank you so much. Your answers really are appreciated. I thought posters might answer a couple answers here or there but I didn't think anyone would go out of their way to address the whole list. I'm really thankful and feeling a lot better about my plans to start investing for retirement. It feels so daunting.

There are just a couple things I'm confused about on #2 and #3 if you don't mind answering. I thought mixing and matching domestic, international, and bonds from index funds were how to set up an IRA. You're saying that instead of selecting multiple different things that I mentioned in #12 that I should just go with a certain ETF? I googled ETF World Index and getting results that seem to point me to MSCI. That is what I should go with to start my path with an IRA?

And less importantly, if its by calendar year but people can contribute until March, then how is it decided which year a contribution goes to? For example, if people yesterday just put in the full $6,000 - is that a 2018 or 2019 contribution?
The hands off approach would be to buy an MSCI World Index Fund, that will contain everything from Apple and Ford to international and emerging markets. This means you only need to buy one fund and not worry yourself about allocations between domestic, foreign, emerging, etc.
Mind you this is my opinion this is not a universal truth. Some might say to only buy a domestic US ETF.

As for contributions you will be asked at the time of purchase what year the contributions are for.
 

vypek

Member
Oct 25, 2017
12,532
The hands off approach would be to buy an MSCI World Index Fund, that will contain everything from Apple and Ford to international and emerging markets. This means you only need to buy one fund and not worry yourself about allocations between domestic, foreign, emerging, etc.
Mind you this is my opinion this is not a universal truth. Some might say to only buy a domestic US ETF.

As for contributions you will be asked at the time of purchase what year the contributions are for.
Thanks so much for your insights and answers. Again, I really appreciate it :)
 

evilpigking

Member
Oct 25, 2017
128
debating if I want to put this years contributions (however much it will end up being) in the same fund or a different one for quasi diversification.
 

hockeypuck

Member
Oct 29, 2017
737
If I mistakenly put in a buy order for funds into Vanguard's Roth IRA, when I should've done traditional IRA, how easy is that to fix? Can't cancel online. Is it like a 10 minute phone call?
 

evilpigking

Member
Oct 25, 2017
128
What is the one you have and what is the one you are considering? I used to think the same, now I would make it as simple as humanly possible for myself.
Just started with last year so I put last year into VTI - Total US index
Was thinking of one of the more field specific indexes this time like biotech/electronics etc. Not sure though because they generally have slightly higher expense rations (0.1 vs 0.04)
 

evilpigking

Member
Oct 25, 2017
128
If I mistakenly put in a buy order for funds into Vanguard's Roth IRA, when I should've done traditional IRA, how easy is that to fix? Can't cancel online. Is it like a 10 minute phone call?

Dunno how easy it is, but here is their site on it https://investor.vanguard.com/ira/roth-recharacterization

Looks like you try to call them first to recharacterize, if that fails for whatever reason there is like a 10 page form to complete and mail where you basically list the account and amount and how you want it recharacterized
 

hockeypuck

Member
Oct 29, 2017
737