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Doing a light computer upgrade (RAM, Case, SSD), and I have some questions:
Current build for reference: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/VyDZRT
Upgraded parts considered: 2nd set of exact RAM, Phanteks Eclipse P600S Case, 2TB SSD (2.5" or M.2)
1) I want to upgrade to a 2TB SSD. Is there an advantage of choosing another 2.5" like I currently have, or going with an M.2 this time?
2) I'm going to turn my current 500GB SSD (which is almost 6 years old) into an external drive. If I only use the computer for gaming and web browsing, is it worth copying the drive's contents over? If so, what's the best way of transferring to either the 2.5" or M.2?
3) Do I need to do anything specific after popping in the two extra sticks of RAM to make sure they're good to go? The extra sticks are identical to my current ones.
4) Based on this case (https://www.newegg.com/black-phanteks-eclipse-p600s-atx-mid-tower/p/N82E16811854081), can I get recommendations on what kind of extra fans I should get, and how many? Or would the fans be redundant because of the fans on my CPU cooler?
I appreciate the help.
Needless context:
This computer originally was a 2015 build. Sometime in 2017, an electrical event occurred in the machine, and it was determined that my EVGA GTX 970 had shorted out. Thankfully, it was a few weeks within it's warranty and got it replaced with a GTX 1060.
Year and a half later, another electrical event, and since I was not sure what had caused it since the motherboard was affected this time, ended up replacing about 80% of the parts with new stuff. When putting everything back together but using my same GPU, upon turning the system on it sparked; the GPU was once again the issue. Thankfully, none of the new parts were damaged, and replaced the GPU to the happy system that I have now.
This original case is old enough that I don't have the proper wires anymore to connect the top case USB ports it has, 16GB of RAM isn't cutting it for me anymore, and I'm frustrated having to manage my game installs without resorting to external storage, but everything else has been working just fine for me and I don't game beyond 1080p (I do have a g-sync monitor and that works nice).
Current build for reference: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/VyDZRT
Upgraded parts considered: 2nd set of exact RAM, Phanteks Eclipse P600S Case, 2TB SSD (2.5" or M.2)
1) I want to upgrade to a 2TB SSD. Is there an advantage of choosing another 2.5" like I currently have, or going with an M.2 this time?
2) I'm going to turn my current 500GB SSD (which is almost 6 years old) into an external drive. If I only use the computer for gaming and web browsing, is it worth copying the drive's contents over? If so, what's the best way of transferring to either the 2.5" or M.2?
3) Do I need to do anything specific after popping in the two extra sticks of RAM to make sure they're good to go? The extra sticks are identical to my current ones.
4) Based on this case (https://www.newegg.com/black-phanteks-eclipse-p600s-atx-mid-tower/p/N82E16811854081), can I get recommendations on what kind of extra fans I should get, and how many? Or would the fans be redundant because of the fans on my CPU cooler?
I appreciate the help.
Needless context:
This computer originally was a 2015 build. Sometime in 2017, an electrical event occurred in the machine, and it was determined that my EVGA GTX 970 had shorted out. Thankfully, it was a few weeks within it's warranty and got it replaced with a GTX 1060.
Year and a half later, another electrical event, and since I was not sure what had caused it since the motherboard was affected this time, ended up replacing about 80% of the parts with new stuff. When putting everything back together but using my same GPU, upon turning the system on it sparked; the GPU was once again the issue. Thankfully, none of the new parts were damaged, and replaced the GPU to the happy system that I have now.
This original case is old enough that I don't have the proper wires anymore to connect the top case USB ports it has, 16GB of RAM isn't cutting it for me anymore, and I'm frustrated having to manage my game installs without resorting to external storage, but everything else has been working just fine for me and I don't game beyond 1080p (I do have a g-sync monitor and that works nice).
No reason to not use an M.2.
Not sure what your current external drive setup is, but you could always just keep your current SSD and install the new one as a games only drive, to save reinstalling windows etc... (drive cloning would also work if you wanted to make the new drive your main one, should be guides available through a quick google).
You might want to pop into the BIOS and check XMP settings etc and maybe run a memory test to see that the new RAM is working fine. If you have any CPU overclocks/voltage adjustments reset them and test anew, as the memory controller might be doing more work. One question: if you're just web browsing and gaming at 1080P, are you sure you need more RAM? 16GB should be sufficient for those purposes.
Fan configuration will depend on how much you want to balance temperature and noise, your climate etc... The three included fans should be sufficient to keep your components running comfortably within spec. One rear exhaust and two front intakes would be the default configuration. It looks like that case allows you to add/remove panels to dampen noise at the cost of airflow, so it might be worth reading some reviews or testing yourself to find the right balance of number of fans, airflow/temperature and noise dampening for your circumstances.
The thought of putting in an M.2 and not having to copy any of my drive stuff does sound pretty appealing...
I just wanted to convert the SSD to an external since it's going on 6 years old and not sure when it will die, but if putting in an M.2 seamlessly gives me the extra 2TB with only slight configuration... then I'd happily nix the external drive purpose I was planning for my original SSD.
I'll check the BIOS and XMP settings to make sure the RAM is good, thanks for this tidbit. While gaming I don't need more RAM than 16GB, but with web browsing... I have a shit ton of tabs open and multiple browsers open, so yeah, I see in Task Manager that my Memory keeps bouncing close to maxed usage. God forbid I leave my browsers open when loading a game by accident.
Thanks for helping me better understand the case's fan situation and what to look for when I start to use it.
I really appreciate your input on a lot of my concerns, I'll save this post to refer to!
I am at a loss here. So I played watchdogs with a 6700k 2080 super 16gb ddr4 ram. I had a bsod computer rebooted got to the login screen half the top of the monitor went blue then crashed again. I tried to power cycle and the computer kept saying I needed to select a bootable drive.
I went into bios chose my drive and it did the same error I tried again then bsod. I unplugged the ram and power cord and held the button to try getting all the power out of the machine. While machine was off I swapped the sata cables just to check and the sata ports. I left the mechanical drive unplugged and the machine booted to windows I copied some of my files to a flash drive. Then I shutdown the computer and attached the mechanical drive back and it started crashing again.
I unplugged the drive again and left the ssd in and it went back to crashing like before. The errors I got were storport.sys wimfsf.sys I am confused because I tried booting off a flash drive to do some start up repair and even that would crash to bsod. I ordered a new hard drive but at this point Im not sure if its just that or possible more that decided to break all at once. Both drives are between 5 and 7 years old it could be that both crapped out at once. I dont have any overclocking I reset bios to default just to be sure.
Update : went out and bought a new ssd installed that same issue no other hard drives in the computer. So I'm guessing it's either ram mobo or cpu
I went into bios chose my drive and it did the same error I tried again then bsod. I unplugged the ram and power cord and held the button to try getting all the power out of the machine. While machine was off I swapped the sata cables just to check and the sata ports. I left the mechanical drive unplugged and the machine booted to windows I copied some of my files to a flash drive. Then I shutdown the computer and attached the mechanical drive back and it started crashing again.
I unplugged the drive again and left the ssd in and it went back to crashing like before. The errors I got were storport.sys wimfsf.sys I am confused because I tried booting off a flash drive to do some start up repair and even that would crash to bsod. I ordered a new hard drive but at this point Im not sure if its just that or possible more that decided to break all at once. Both drives are between 5 and 7 years old it could be that both crapped out at once. I dont have any overclocking I reset bios to default just to be sure.
Update : went out and bought a new ssd installed that same issue no other hard drives in the computer. So I'm guessing it's either ram mobo or cpu
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My Win10 PC recently downloaded an update (according to Settings -> System -> About it's currently on 1903 since 8/2019 and Window Update History shows KB4023057 was installed on 10/19/2020) and now my Xbone Elite V1 will randomly stop working wirelessly. Batteries are fine, recently charged, works fine with a cable. Even in the middle of the game, it'll turn off and when I turn it back it, it will turn itself back off after about 3 seconds. I have to restart my computer and reinstall the wireless adapter drivers to get it working again. Does anyone familiar with this issue have some advice?
My PC keeps freezing when I play certain games. Such as CSGO. It will without fail, freeze up to three times per match, promoting me to do a hard reset. How do I diagnose this issue? Other games seems to run fine. Such as RDR2, but many other games will freeze as well.
This happened to me with the Xbox one controller today, updated to latest windows build, turns on but turns off after a couple seconds, replaced the batteries and it did the same, resetting the Wireless connection via the dongle sorted it though.
Freezes as you need to force close the game or complete freezes where you need to reboot the PC?
I'd start by looking in the event viewer if there's anything of note there. Could be faulty RAM, so you could also try uninstalling one stick at a time.
Is your pc creating a crash dump? If so download a program called whocrashed and let it do its work, it'll only take a few seconds for it diagnose what's causing the bsod
Yup, I need to reboot the entire PC. I've used commands to check on my RAM and it seems to be fine. How do I use Event Viewer?
Does it hurt to leave my PC on overnight, or is it better to shut it down or sleep mode it? I play on it daily and it's only used for gaming
What do you wish to play? That's the main question. If your PC works for now, stick with it and wait for Ryzen, AMD GFX cards/RTX Supers, or, if you're not in a rush, DDR5. PCIx4.0 is out. It's all happening within the next year. M.2 NVME is what you would be looking for, not just SATA-bandwidth.
Current monitor setup would be most indicative as you didn't include it here.
I have no clue can't even get into windows. I ended up formatting drive then it errors out again lol. Went out bought a new ssd got windows installed then error came back when I tried updating windows. I ended up taking it to a shop to see if they can narrow down the culprit if nothing else I'll keep what parts I can and build another pc. Before I formatted some of the errors were storport.sys wimfsf.sys
I've never seen anything like it. I used windows flash to create new boot files just in case that was the issue. I swapped out sata cables. Pulled ram the battery tried different sata ports. I don't overclock so it wouldn't be that. There was times where bios would show a blank spot where my storage should be and then when I did see my drive it would show me a prompt to select a bootable device. I reflashed bios just in case that corrupted. Maybe decsec hacked my pc
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So I've reinstalled Windows because my keyboard was messing up, double typing excessively with no clear indicator of it being the actual keyboard after trying other keyboards. Turns out it may have been that keyboard which had the double typing issue, however I now have this other keyboard just randomly spazzing out and changing where the typing cursor is or outputting completely random characters. That issue I'll keep for the PC help thread, but my actual question is more on the part of Windows 10 reinstall and Xbox App.
With reinstalling Windows 10 I've now obviously "lost" the installs for all my gamepass games. How the heck do I get Xbox app to recognise that I clearly have a whole heap of games across three SSD's? Please do not tell me Microsoft has literally no way of determining whether files are present or not, and that I have to wipe the presence of any games in order for it to work, because that is all that is coming up on Google searches. Surely there is some way of getting recognition.
With reinstalling Windows 10 I've now obviously "lost" the installs for all my gamepass games. How the heck do I get Xbox app to recognise that I clearly have a whole heap of games across three SSD's? Please do not tell me Microsoft has literally no way of determining whether files are present or not, and that I have to wipe the presence of any games in order for it to work, because that is all that is coming up on Google searches. Surely there is some way of getting recognition.
I put mine in Sleep /Hibernate mode all of the time. Doesn't hurt at all.
What exactly is the difference between a gsync monitor and a "gsync-compatible" monitor. I remember when it was announced that the LG OLEDs last year were going to have gsync support, some would always make it a point that it was just making them compatible and not comparable to actual gsync monitors, making it sound inferior.
If I were to get an LG CX, how would gsync support compare to my existing gsync PC monitor?
If I were to get an LG CX, how would gsync support compare to my existing gsync PC monitor?
Gsync and Gsync Ultimate are monitors which uses Gsync h/w - a chip provided by NV which handles signal inputs and conversions to the panel. They are generally great in a sense that if you're looking for a perfect adaptive sync monitor getting a Gsync one will more or less guarantee that. The newer models also work with AMD (and potentially Intel) GPUs as they've switched to using VESA adaptive sync signalling over their earlier proprietary solution. All of this is about DisplayPort since Gsync h/w provide adaptive sync only over DisplayPort.
Gsync compatible are monitors which use their own signal processing h/w which is compatible with either VESA adaptive sync (DP) or HDMI VRR (HDMI). It can vary from model to model as there are no level of support required anywhere, the worst models won't even work properly while the best models are at the same level as Gsync ones. NV support such devices as "Gsync compatible" through the use of VESA adaptive sync on DP and HDMI VRR on HDMI.
It would be pretty much the same as LG X series provide HDMI VRR support which is on par with what you likely have in your Gsync monitor.
Thanks for the reply, unfortunately just trying to reconnect with the sync buttons doesn't work for me (they either never connect or the problem persists). I guess I'll try uninstalling the recent update and see if that fixes it.
So I'm running a i5-8600k @ 4.8ghz and a RTX 3080. I play exclusively at 1440p @ 144hz on a Gsync monitor. With all the troubles I've been having with WD Legion, I am beginning to think the bottleneck of my CPU may be bigger than I initially thought. I mostly concerned with CB2077 and AC Valhalla. You guys think I should upgrade my CPU given my specs and play target?
It's unlikely that there is a CPU which will be noticeably faster in gaming than what you have now.
With SSD's it's pointless to have your PC in sleep mode overnight.
Personally i used to just leave my PC on, but then i started worrying about that one power surge/power cut that could occur during defrag or something while i slept.
On the flip side you have that small chance of frying your components during every boot up, so it's not really something you should think too much about.
https://www.digitaltrends.com/computing/should-you-turn-off-your-computer-at-night/
My current gaming PC is approaching 7 years of stability and i've shut it down at the end of every day.
Of course. It's the one thing I hate about Microsoft, in that they hobble together so much that when changes are needed it's nigh impossible to do. I do hope they work out a way to discover downloaded games naturally, but I wonder if I move games across to other hard drives I can then have Xbox app "prepare" the designated drive. That way I'll start a download, pause it, close out of the app and move across the existing files to hopefully make it recognise.
G-sync includes proprietary hardware from Nvidia, g-sync compatible is Freesync (open-source software made by AMD) that has essentially been certified by Nvidia. Works essentially the same way and should save you a couple hundred bucks on a monitor
Honestly Microsoft needs to overhaul the whole UWP system, it was never designed for what it's currently used for.
Definitely agree, and I wonder if they'll have a new file delivery system on the Series due to SSD development. I'm hoping that won't require a whole new OS, as the idea is that Windows 10 is the last "OS" from memory, and will just gain gradual updates that shift what it looks like.
Good point I hope they take some clues from that but yeah I doubt it would require a new OS, Windows is by virtue pretty adaptable thankfully.
Thanks for the info! Will I be able to use VRR with my 1080 Ti, or will it only work with an HDMI 2.1 GPU?
Picking up a CX today, pretty excited
If I update my motherboard bios to the newest agesa 1.1.0.0 will it still be compatible with older cpus?
I have a gigabyte aorus ultra x570 and the support page doesn't mention anything about it.
I have a gigabyte aorus ultra x570 and the support page doesn't mention anything about it.
So I'm looking at finally upgrading into the wonderful world of higher refresh monitors, and I'm after some advice on the best one to pick. Now, I'll never go 4k, it's pointless to me and a waste of my money for something I will barely see. My first question is, if I go 2k 144hz, can I decrease the resolution to 1080p while I still have my GTX1070? I don't believe it will handle 2k extremely well in today's settings but I want to future proof for the 6800XT (or 6900 not sure yet).
Second question, if it's worth a 2k monitor, is this one decent? https://www.pccasegear.com/products/48415/samsung-jg54-qhd-144hz-freesync-curved-27in-monitor
Second question, if it's worth a 2k monitor, is this one decent? https://www.pccasegear.com/products/48415/samsung-jg54-qhd-144hz-freesync-curved-27in-monitor
Ended up being my cpu dying. Core 4 Amp 7. I might just end up getting i7 9700k
I thought about just building a new one completely but cheaper alternative is to buy that cpu.
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You will likely get a POST error on boot unless you can disable the PCIE slot in BIOS.
I went ahead and tried it last night and it turned on ok. I'll just leave it be for now haha.
On my PC I have my Displayport connected to my Samsung Odyssey G9 and my HDMI 2.1 connected to my LG OLED.
Samsung Odyssey G9 - 5120 x 1440, 240hz, G-SYNC
LG OLED - 3840 x 2160, 120hz, G-SYNC, HDR ON
I only ever have 1 on at a time.
My question, does Windows/Nvidia "save" my display configuration settings or will I need to keep changing them each time I swap between them? I'm at work right now so can't go in and test myself but yesterday evening I had to set up my LG OLED settings again BUT that may have been because I plugged out my HDMI cable doing something and put it back in.
I don't want to have to re-configure 120hz/240hz and Windows HDR every time I swap active display.
Samsung Odyssey G9 - 5120 x 1440, 240hz, G-SYNC
LG OLED - 3840 x 2160, 120hz, G-SYNC, HDR ON
I only ever have 1 on at a time.
My question, does Windows/Nvidia "save" my display configuration settings or will I need to keep changing them each time I swap between them? I'm at work right now so can't go in and test myself but yesterday evening I had to set up my LG OLED settings again BUT that may have been because I plugged out my HDMI cable doing something and put it back in.
I don't want to have to re-configure 120hz/240hz and Windows HDR every time I swap active display.
Okay guys... I would like your help.
I noticed little stuttering in games recently. I have Ryzen 3600 and 2070 Super + 16 GB RAM so it's rather good hardware. And even on 1080p for example sometimes when I'm playing for 2 hours, games like Watch Dogs Legion or Witcher 3 or Control, they start to work worse and worse the longer I play. More FPS drops, more stuttering.
What can cause this? I have no idea and I don't know what to do, to be honest. I don't know where to start checking.
I noticed little stuttering in games recently. I have Ryzen 3600 and 2070 Super + 16 GB RAM so it's rather good hardware. And even on 1080p for example sometimes when I'm playing for 2 hours, games like Watch Dogs Legion or Witcher 3 or Control, they start to work worse and worse the longer I play. More FPS drops, more stuttering.
What can cause this? I have no idea and I don't know what to do, to be honest. I don't know where to start checking.
I don't think that it matters much for SSDs, they don't loose any performance even being 99% full.
I currently have an i5 8600k slightly overclocked. With the next Gen systems launching, would it be wise to pick up one of those $288 i7 9700k's?
To my understanding having only 6 cores may prove problematic for gaming in the near future.
Would 8 cores/8 threads even be enough?
Thank you.
To my understanding having only 6 cores may prove problematic for gaming in the near future.
Would 8 cores/8 threads even be enough?
Thank you.
SATA generally doesn't use SLC caching. It's only something to consider on much faster NVMe drives. SATA is a hard drive standard and limited to similar speeds.
I have an issue with DWM.exe (Desktop Window Manager) it seems like there's a memory leak or something, it keeps using more and more memory the more I use my computer, right now it's at 872mb but yesterday it was at like 1.6GB.
I have 32Gb of RAM so it's not that big of a deal but it's still annoying, the only way to fix this is to restart the computer. I'm wondering if there's anyway to just restart the process without having to completely restart my computer? Is that dangerous?
I have 32Gb of RAM so it's not that big of a deal but it's still annoying, the only way to fix this is to restart the computer. I'm wondering if there's anyway to just restart the process without having to completely restart my computer? Is that dangerous?
OK, weird one which isn't gaming related. Found a bunch of my old SOAD and GNR music CDs and ripped one (Mezmerize) to my hard drive with iTunes.
Now Windows won't show my CD/DVD drive in File Explorer (still there in Device Manager) and my audio is botched (delays as if there were heavy CPU utilisation, which there doesn't appear to be in Task Manager). Restarted, hasn't fixed anything.
I checked to see if Mezmerize was one of the 2005 Sony/BMG CDs that came with the infamous rootkit, but it doesn't appear to be.
EDIT: OK, after restarting and installing latest Windows 10 update, CD drive is no longer in Device Manager :/
EDIT 2: Went to Show Hidden Devices and right-clicked on drive to show Properties:
Currently, this hardware device is not connected to the computer. (Code 45)
To fix this problem, reconnect this hardware device to the computer
Now Windows won't show my CD/DVD drive in File Explorer (still there in Device Manager) and my audio is botched (delays as if there were heavy CPU utilisation, which there doesn't appear to be in Task Manager). Restarted, hasn't fixed anything.
I checked to see if Mezmerize was one of the 2005 Sony/BMG CDs that came with the infamous rootkit, but it doesn't appear to be.
EDIT: OK, after restarting and installing latest Windows 10 update, CD drive is no longer in Device Manager :/
EDIT 2: Went to Show Hidden Devices and right-clicked on drive to show Properties:
Currently, this hardware device is not connected to the computer. (Code 45)
To fix this problem, reconnect this hardware device to the computer
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