It wasn't on purpose, and also, why are people giving me so much crap in a thread specifically for dumb PC questions? o_O
I also just set up this PC today, I doubt it was 30hz with my last PC but who knows or cares?
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It wasn't on purpose, and also, why are people giving me so much crap in a thread specifically for dumb PC questions? o_O
I also just set up this PC today, I doubt it was 30hz with my last PC but who knows or cares?
Is there any way to enable/disable windows HDR for specific programs? Took me an hour but figured out Dead Space wouldn't launch with Windows HDR enabled. But I'd like to not have to worry about toggling it on and off every time I switch games
So for the past year I have this problem where my wifi is normal and fine but then randomly it shits the bed on random devices in the house and i have to unplug and plug my modem and router back in. Sometimes the PS4 will not connect and laptops fine. Sometimes laptops and phone won't connect by PS4 and TV are ok. My desktop is always fine and i also have upgraded my router and modem and got the fastest connection from Spectrum possible. Is this a common problem for people? Its driving me banana splits
Wanted to start Hades on PC today and ran into an issue that isn't too bad but still annoying. So my main PC monitor only supports 1080p and is set as primary monitor. Whenever I want to play on my 4k TV though I plug a HDMI cable from my PC to the TV. Unfortunately when I open Hades it opens it automatically on my 1080p monitor and even when I move it to my TV the max resolution stays at 1080p. The only way to make the 4k option appear is to make my TV primary monitor so that the game automatically opens on my TV. While I can do this I am still wondering whether there is a way to handle this without having to switch primary monitors all the time... why does the game not recognize that it is now displayed on a display that supports higher resolutions than 1080p?
try this - https://sourceforge.net/projects/monitorswitcher/
basically save one profile when youre using your 1080p monitor as primary, then save a different one when its your TV as primary. it just sits in the taskbar, but i believe you have to manually add it to startup.
i have a similar issue when i'm trying to toggle between one of my 3 monitors. windows + P is buggy when it comes to more than 2 monitors
When streaming to my Nvidia Shield and encountering a Windows 10 UAC prompt, how do I get the mouse cursor to not disappear?
I say "disappear" because the mouse cursor actually just becomes invisible. I can still move a cursor around with my mouse and click through the prompt blindly to proceed if I know where the cursor is (I always thought that the UAC prompt was actually blocking inputs to non elevated apps?)
I say "disappear" because the mouse cursor actually just becomes invisible. I can still move a cursor around with my mouse and click through the prompt blindly to proceed if I know where the cursor is (I always thought that the UAC prompt was actually blocking inputs to non elevated apps?)
I'm having this weird issue while using my Xbox One bluetooth with my PC.
Games randomly stop detecting the controller input. I have to press the Windows key so the game moves to background, enter the game again, and voilá everything working.
It won't start working again until i do this.
Any idea?
Games randomly stop detecting the controller input. I have to press the Windows key so the game moves to background, enter the game again, and voilá everything working.
It won't start working again until i do this.
Any idea?
There are several monitors out there that offer "overclocking" to a higher refresh rate. Is there any issue with using these modes? I assume not since they're typically advertised as an additional feature of the display but there must also be a reason why they don't run at that refresh rate out of the box.
Well it all depends on the hardware, higher refresh-rate might cause the color quality to degrade or in the case of response-time overclocking it might cause overshoot artifacts but generally these are two things you wouldn't notice in games unless you look for them. You will however notice these in regular desktop usage.
My guess is no issue for many that have it. I have a 100hz monitor with an oc option up to 120 and I have been using it at that refresh rate for years now with no issues (well I did have one issue when I first got it where the signal would drop randomly, but I think that was more on nvidia's side since it was acknowledged by them and fixed in a driver update)
Thinking of upgrading my PC, a couple of questions:
1) With DirectStorage coming, what are requirements for it? What should I have in my PC to be able to utilize it in the future?
2) What's the easiest way of identifying what causes bottleneck in my build? I have I5 3570k and GTX2060, so CPU is obvious suspect, but can I confirm it? I'm having FPS all over the place in Horizon.
1) With DirectStorage coming, what are requirements for it? What should I have in my PC to be able to utilize it in the future?
2) What's the easiest way of identifying what causes bottleneck in my build? I have I5 3570k and GTX2060, so CPU is obvious suspect, but can I confirm it? I'm having FPS all over the place in Horizon.
Win10 20H1, an SSD - preferably an NVMe one (PCIE 3.0+) as it will target some NVMe features but will supposedly work with SATA SSDs too.
Check MSI Afterburner monitoring. The part which hits 100% load will be the main limiting bottleneck.
I have a really odd issue.
I have an Asus X570-E motherboard that has a wifi/bluetooth dongle like so:
I'm getting some bizarre issues with it. It happened me with Warzone and Resident Evil 3.
When connecting my Xbox One Bluetooth controller to it, it works perfectly. However if for example I hold my controller under my desk, the inputs start going crazy (I'm guessing the bluetooth starts acting up) and my FPS TANKS on whatever game I am playing. Warzone dropped to 4fps and Resident Evil 3 stutters at around 10fps.
Any idea what's causing this? I mean, at most I'd expect the controller to just start acting funky. I don't really understand why my FPS needs to dip massively. Unless the dongle starts sending massive spikes of inputs?
EDIT: Seeing a couple of similar issues across places like reddit. This one is a good example: https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/57c9a3/xbox_one_s_controller_frame_rate_issue/
I have an Asus X570-E motherboard that has a wifi/bluetooth dongle like so:
I'm getting some bizarre issues with it. It happened me with Warzone and Resident Evil 3.
When connecting my Xbox One Bluetooth controller to it, it works perfectly. However if for example I hold my controller under my desk, the inputs start going crazy (I'm guessing the bluetooth starts acting up) and my FPS TANKS on whatever game I am playing. Warzone dropped to 4fps and Resident Evil 3 stutters at around 10fps.
Any idea what's causing this? I mean, at most I'd expect the controller to just start acting funky. I don't really understand why my FPS needs to dip massively. Unless the dongle starts sending massive spikes of inputs?
EDIT: Seeing a couple of similar issues across places like reddit. This one is a good example: https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/57c9a3/xbox_one_s_controller_frame_rate_issue/
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I have a really odd issue.
I have an Asus X570-E motherboard that has a wifi/bluetooth dongle like so:
I'm getting some bizarre issues with it. It happened me with Warzone and Resident Evil 3.
When connecting my Xbox One Bluetooth controller to it, it works perfectly. However if for example I hold my controller under my desk, the inputs start going crazy (I'm guessing the bluetooth starts acting up) and my FPS TANKS on whatever game I am playing. Warzone dropped to 4fps and Resident Evil 3 stutters at around 10fps.
Any idea what's causing this? I mean, at most I'd expect the controller to just start acting funky. I don't really understand why my FPS needs to dip massively. Unless the dongle starts sending massive spikes of inputs?
EDIT: Seeing a couple of similar issues across places like reddit. This one is a good example: https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/57c9a3/xbox_one_s_controller_frame_rate_issue/
I had that issue with my laptop. I think I solved it by updating the bluetooth controller drivers (mine is from intel).
Undervolting GPU? I usually just run Unigine Heaven at max settings or Time Spy for about 10 minutes and watch for any kind of graphical issues.
I have a really odd issue.
I have an Asus X570-E motherboard that has a wifi/bluetooth dongle like so:
I'm getting some bizarre issues with it. It happened me with Warzone and Resident Evil 3.
When connecting my Xbox One Bluetooth controller to it, it works perfectly. However if for example I hold my controller under my desk, the inputs start going crazy (I'm guessing the bluetooth starts acting up) and my FPS TANKS on whatever game I am playing. Warzone dropped to 4fps and Resident Evil 3 stutters at around 10fps.
Any idea what's causing this? I mean, at most I'd expect the controller to just start acting funky. I don't really understand why my FPS needs to dip massively. Unless the dongle starts sending massive spikes of inputs?
EDIT: Seeing a couple of similar issues across places like reddit. This one is a good example: https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/57c9a3/xbox_one_s_controller_frame_rate_issue/
Asus seems to have horrible Bluetooth. I suffered through tons of FPS issues thinking my build was bad or my GPU was faulty. No amount of updating fixed the issue.
I solved this by getting the official Xbox dongle. haven't had an issue since.
Yeah tbh I just bit the bullet and bought the official dongle on Amazon. Waiting for it to arrive.
Never before have I seen Bluetooth cause FPS to absolutely tank when it starts having connectivity issues. Official Dongle should at the very least eliminate my headache from trying to troubleshoot it :)
That's what I did, but Hellblade and RDR2 require a higher voltage, it seems.
Yeah, I've had good performance in Unigine, but then crash playing something. I'm this case, I'd just increase the mV by like 20-30. So if I my undervolt was at 900 mV, I'd just bump it up to 930 mV and then everything ran fine.
its truly a terror trying to troubleshoot each game. I wasted at least 50 hours researching destiny settings on how to keep 60fps, lowering ping in Sea of Thieves, finding a vpn so I could play SFV online.
all of this shit being caused by Bluetooth is absolutely insane. I'm guessing there's a constant connect/disconnect/reconnect happening at such a high rate that it's not prompting an error but instead making the game perform terribly.
I just had the longest call with Microsoft support.
Basically, Windows Store will only download about 50% of the GamePass games on my PC. Others give me errors right when I try to initiate the download. It seems completely random which games will install and which won't. For instance, Flight Sim, Halo:MC, Halo Wars, Drake Hollow, Disgea 4, Crusader Kings all download. However, all the Age of Empires games, Company of Heroes, Wasteland 3, and many others will give me an error.
So I tried to troubleshoot this myself for the past week. Searched on all the error codes I was getting, and tried like 20 different solutions. Such as "WSReset.exe", many PowerShell commands to clean Windows Store and download caches, making a test user with admin rights and logging in as them and trying to download the problematic games, etc etc.
I finally called MS today, and started with the Xbox division. The guy basically had me do all the steps I had already done, and of course none of them worked. Then I got put to a windows tech rep who took control of my computer and basically did all the things the previous guy did and of course none of them worked. 2 hours later, they elevate my case up to an "expert" windows tech. This guy does the same thing, exact same steps I had already tried, nothing worked.
He then says he wants to "repair" my OS by downloading an ISO and running an OS repair on it. He does this, and my PC reboots and now I have 2 installations of Windows 10 I need to chose between. He sounds really confused about this, and I need to explain to him what happened for like 10 minutes. This is when he started getting angry. He yells at me that it is "impossible" to have two installations of Windows on a single computer. Finally, after I finally am able to get him to understand what he just did, he insists I load the new install of Windows and see if I can download anything. This new install of Windows can install the problematic games.
So then he tells me that the problem is fixed, and if I ever have a problem downloading a game, just reboot my PC into the new install of windows and use that installation to play the game.
I was like, no, I need you to fix the issue on my original OS install. Then he starts telling me this song and dance about how PC games have high system requirements and if I download too many then Windows Store will start not letting me download any more. I told him that I knew that wasn't how anything works and I needed my case elevated to someone who can actually fix the problem on my existing OS. He then starts basically talking over me and yelling at me that I don't understand how highly demanding games are and that they take up too many resources so it makes the Windows Store not able to download more games.
I ended up trying to get him to elevate my case and he just got angrier and angrier with me. I couldn't believe how unprofessional he was being, on top of making up complete nonsense to justify his "solution". He then said my only option was to live with having two windows installs or to wipe my original windows install completely and start from scratch.
The whole ordeal lasted for 5 and a half hours.
Anyhow, what is my best course of action to get this issue elevated beyond this guy? I have a case number, but I'm afraid they are just going to connect me with this guy again.
Basically, Windows Store will only download about 50% of the GamePass games on my PC. Others give me errors right when I try to initiate the download. It seems completely random which games will install and which won't. For instance, Flight Sim, Halo:MC, Halo Wars, Drake Hollow, Disgea 4, Crusader Kings all download. However, all the Age of Empires games, Company of Heroes, Wasteland 3, and many others will give me an error.
So I tried to troubleshoot this myself for the past week. Searched on all the error codes I was getting, and tried like 20 different solutions. Such as "WSReset.exe", many PowerShell commands to clean Windows Store and download caches, making a test user with admin rights and logging in as them and trying to download the problematic games, etc etc.
I finally called MS today, and started with the Xbox division. The guy basically had me do all the steps I had already done, and of course none of them worked. Then I got put to a windows tech rep who took control of my computer and basically did all the things the previous guy did and of course none of them worked. 2 hours later, they elevate my case up to an "expert" windows tech. This guy does the same thing, exact same steps I had already tried, nothing worked.
He then says he wants to "repair" my OS by downloading an ISO and running an OS repair on it. He does this, and my PC reboots and now I have 2 installations of Windows 10 I need to chose between. He sounds really confused about this, and I need to explain to him what happened for like 10 minutes. This is when he started getting angry. He yells at me that it is "impossible" to have two installations of Windows on a single computer. Finally, after I finally am able to get him to understand what he just did, he insists I load the new install of Windows and see if I can download anything. This new install of Windows can install the problematic games.
So then he tells me that the problem is fixed, and if I ever have a problem downloading a game, just reboot my PC into the new install of windows and use that installation to play the game.
I was like, no, I need you to fix the issue on my original OS install. Then he starts telling me this song and dance about how PC games have high system requirements and if I download too many then Windows Store will start not letting me download any more. I told him that I knew that wasn't how anything works and I needed my case elevated to someone who can actually fix the problem on my existing OS. He then starts basically talking over me and yelling at me that I don't understand how highly demanding games are and that they take up too many resources so it makes the Windows Store not able to download more games.
I ended up trying to get him to elevate my case and he just got angrier and angrier with me. I couldn't believe how unprofessional he was being, on top of making up complete nonsense to justify his "solution". He then said my only option was to live with having two windows installs or to wipe my original windows install completely and start from scratch.
The whole ordeal lasted for 5 and a half hours.
Anyhow, what is my best course of action to get this issue elevated beyond this guy? I have a case number, but I'm afraid they are just going to connect me with this guy again.
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Yikes. I've also twice had to reinstall Windows to get their horrible, shitty, awful store working again. Microsoft support is pretty bad.
It's difficult for me to imagine how this is working, unless maybe you have installations on multiple drives. It sounds really bizarre. I would probably backup, wipe, and start fresh.
It's difficult for me to imagine how this is working, unless maybe you have installations on multiple drives. It sounds really bizarre. I would probably backup, wipe, and start fresh.
Hey PC ERA, I've got a problem and I'm not sure if it's the game or if my GPU is just fucked.
I've run into a few older games now that just straight up run at 1-2 FPS in game. The menus also run like a slideshow but the splash screens and cutscenes work fine. Enslaved Odyssey to the West is one but I understand that port isn't the best. The one most recently I've had trouble with is Aliens Colonial Marines. I've not seen anyone claim it's a poor port just that it's a poor game and it honestly baffles me that my computer is having such difficulty running it even at 720p. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
My specs for reference:
I7-8700k
64GB Ram
RTX 2080 (with the latest drivers)
I've run into a few older games now that just straight up run at 1-2 FPS in game. The menus also run like a slideshow but the splash screens and cutscenes work fine. Enslaved Odyssey to the West is one but I understand that port isn't the best. The one most recently I've had trouble with is Aliens Colonial Marines. I've not seen anyone claim it's a poor port just that it's a poor game and it honestly baffles me that my computer is having such difficulty running it even at 720p. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
My specs for reference:
I7-8700k
64GB Ram
RTX 2080 (with the latest drivers)
So, I just got a new LG CX hooked up to my PC and whenever I load up Yakuza 0 on it at 4k it defaults to a lower resolution then what it says in game unless I alt tab and go back into the game. Thereafter, the resolution seems to resolve itself. I am playing fullscreen with both the desktop and the game set to 3840x2160. Any idea how to resolve this so it doesnt keep switching every time I play?
TV-with PC question here.
My housing situation was moved around recently, and now my main LG oled is in the same room as my PC (win10). I'm currently using it as a third monitor I usually keep off and Steam big picture mode works pretty well when set to launch on the TV, while maintaining my monitor as the 'primary' screen when I'm not gaming. My issue is that half the time my desktop icons are jammed onto the TV desktop at some point during the primary screen switching (which I let steam handle automatically with bpm). It seems like it only happens if I alt-tab out of a game, but I think changing resolutions on some games might trigger it as well.
Any advise on the best solution here? It would be great if steam (or another app) could handle sending bpm/gameplay to the TV screen without changing primary monitors, but I think the only way to do this is on a per-game basis via in-game options. I had also thought of simply mirroring my primary monitor to the TV, but there are resolution and refresh rate differences (4k/60 vs 1440/165) so I don't think that's an option either. The only thing I can think of is to set up rainmeter, and use that for desktop shortcuts since their positions are a bit more permeant than windows icons. I'd prefer something that's just a bit more elegant than what steam is doing.
My housing situation was moved around recently, and now my main LG oled is in the same room as my PC (win10). I'm currently using it as a third monitor I usually keep off and Steam big picture mode works pretty well when set to launch on the TV, while maintaining my monitor as the 'primary' screen when I'm not gaming. My issue is that half the time my desktop icons are jammed onto the TV desktop at some point during the primary screen switching (which I let steam handle automatically with bpm). It seems like it only happens if I alt-tab out of a game, but I think changing resolutions on some games might trigger it as well.
Any advise on the best solution here? It would be great if steam (or another app) could handle sending bpm/gameplay to the TV screen without changing primary monitors, but I think the only way to do this is on a per-game basis via in-game options. I had also thought of simply mirroring my primary monitor to the TV, but there are resolution and refresh rate differences (4k/60 vs 1440/165) so I don't think that's an option either. The only thing I can think of is to set up rainmeter, and use that for desktop shortcuts since their positions are a bit more permeant than windows icons. I'd prefer something that's just a bit more elegant than what steam is doing.
Time to upgrade my controller. I'm retiring my old wired X360 controller and moving the XB1 controller from the Steam Link in the theater room to the PC, with a wireless adapter that will be here in a couple days (and I'll be getting a XSX controller for the living room once those release).
If I run the wireless adapter through a powered USB hub, it should be fine, right? That's where the wired controller is run right now. I'm fresh out of ports on the back of the system and I'd rather not put the dongle on any of the front ports.
If I run the wireless adapter through a powered USB hub, it should be fine, right? That's where the wired controller is run right now. I'm fresh out of ports on the back of the system and I'd rather not put the dongle on any of the front ports.
I have a Logitech wireless keyboard/touchpad hooked up to my PC for using the TV, and a wired Philips mouse on the same PC for when I am sitting at my desk.
I've noticed that the wired mouse has a super subtle "lag" to it, which was driving me crazy. It is really subtle, like the mouse is slightly inaccurate and I need to sometimes correct it when clicking on a link or highlighting something.
I got to thinking that maybe the wireless keyboard/touchpad was causing it. I turned off the wireless keyboard, and the problem seems to have gone away.
Is there a way I can monitor USB activity? I would like to know if the wireless keyboard is actually sending data to the PC if it is on and not being interacted with that might be subtly effecting my wired mouse.
I've noticed that the wired mouse has a super subtle "lag" to it, which was driving me crazy. It is really subtle, like the mouse is slightly inaccurate and I need to sometimes correct it when clicking on a link or highlighting something.
I got to thinking that maybe the wireless keyboard/touchpad was causing it. I turned off the wireless keyboard, and the problem seems to have gone away.
Is there a way I can monitor USB activity? I would like to know if the wireless keyboard is actually sending data to the PC if it is on and not being interacted with that might be subtly effecting my wired mouse.
This started happening recently.
In my case, games that are a certain size (like 10GB+) wouldn't download.
I found out that if I tried to download them to my secondary HDD, not C:, they wouldn't download.
As soon as I started downloading to my C:, no issues.
Now I have a 2TB HDD where I cant install nor move inside games from the Windows Store...
I've had this issue for years now and never really figured out what causes it and if it's a Microsoft thing (and if so, why they never fixed it). It happens randomly with both a cheap USB bluetooth adapter (which has awful range) and with my motherboard's bluetooth dongle (which has significantly better range) and only seems to occur with xbox one controllers. I think the only fix for those who get it is to use a USB cable or to buy Microsoft's wireless usb adapter.I have a really odd issue.
I have an Asus X570-E motherboard that has a wifi/bluetooth dongle like so:
I'm getting some bizarre issues with it. It happened me with Warzone and Resident Evil 3.
When connecting my Xbox One Bluetooth controller to it, it works perfectly. However if for example I hold my controller under my desk, the inputs start going crazy (I'm guessing the bluetooth starts acting up) and my FPS TANKS on whatever game I am playing. Warzone dropped to 4fps and Resident Evil 3 stutters at around 10fps.
Any idea what's causing this? I mean, at most I'd expect the controller to just start acting funky. I don't really understand why my FPS needs to dip massively. Unless the dongle starts sending massive spikes of inputs?
EDIT: Seeing a couple of similar issues across places like reddit. This one is a good example: https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/57c9a3/xbox_one_s_controller_frame_rate_issue/
Yeah the size doesn't matter for me at all. Some 200 Meg games won't download on any drive but some 70 gig ones will install on all of them.
It is extremely frustrating.
MS really needs to get their shit in order. Until they do my Gamepass subscription is like 1/4 functional.
Does anyone know if the Xbox gamepass app or the microsoft store can locate installs?
If I reset windows can it find a game on another drive after the fact. I wanna know since the game doesn't support cloud saves.
If I reset windows can it find a game on another drive after the fact. I wanna know since the game doesn't support cloud saves.
When I upgraded to a new CPU/Motherboard last year, I decided to do a reinstall. Games were installed on a different drive. Steam easily picked up existing installs. I think Origin did too. Microsoft store/Xbox App though, no. Don't know if things have changed now though
This might be a really stupid question, but how do I know what direction a fan will blow before I screw it in and turn it on?
There should be an arrow symbolizing airflow somewhere on the frame of each fan.
Found it, thanks. It was pretty small. There's one arrow pointing perpendicular as well. I assume that's the direction the fan spins.
Yeah exactly! And yeah I feel these should be more visible, they are pretty damn tiny. Happy building :)
Yep I bit the bullet and bought the official Wireless USB adapter and haven't had the issue since. Really annoying though!
I recently was able to get a decent 27" 1440p Freesync monitor that supports G-Sync, but some games struggle a little at 1440. I'm planning on upgrading soon anyway, but in the meantime, is it recommended to run demanding games at 1080p but use my NVIDIA control panel to upscale/downsample (I always get these mixed up) them a bit so the picture doesn't look too blurry full screen? I apologize ahead of time for the dumb question, this is the first time I've ever gone above 1080p...I'm really behind the times, G-Sync/Freesync is so awesome!
Definitely not. The system Microsoft uses for app/game installs is so convoluted and broken that a lot of Windows systems can't even install the games. The files are locked into some crazy secure directory which I think is tied directly to the hardware they are installed on, meaning they get unique directory names and permissions that only exist on that particular hardware configuration and OS install.
There is no way for another installation of Windows to recognize them.
The system is so bad that Microsoft themselves can't even fix the many problems that happen because of it.
I almost think whoever designed the system quit the company years ago and no one who is left there has any clue how it works. I'm pretty sure during the three separate tech support calls even the third and fourth tier tech support engineers were just googling for how to fix it.
For future reference, it's almost always going to be blowing in the direction of the "spokes" connecting the motor to the frame.
I've been through 3 separate calls totalling 10 hours that went up the chain to a 4th level of tech support engineer and none of them could fix my windows store issue.
Hoping someone here can help me out. I'm trying to delete the WindowsApps folder (not on my C: drive but another one) and I'm unable to. I've already done all the permission stuff, but now when I try to delete it it says another folder or file is in use and blocks the deletion. I've checked via a third party app and Resource Monitor and nothing else is running on that particular drive at all so, as far as I can tell, nothing should be open that's involved. Anyone else ever have this issue?
EDIT: Figured it out. Had to delete it via CMD prompts. Also the WpSystem folder was basically a second WindowsApps folder and needed to be deleted before I could make a new one.
EDIT: Figured it out. Had to delete it via CMD prompts. Also the WpSystem folder was basically a second WindowsApps folder and needed to be deleted before I could make a new one.
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Anyone else ever had trouble with DSR on Nvidia causing crashes in games in full screen exclusive?
I didn't used to have problems on that but it seems to be causing games to crash without fail, the only exception being if they're in borderless. I've tried disabling and reenabling it to no avail
Am considering maybe just trying to go the higher custom resolution route instead
I didn't used to have problems on that but it seems to be causing games to crash without fail, the only exception being if they're in borderless. I've tried disabling and reenabling it to no avail
Am considering maybe just trying to go the higher custom resolution route instead