Yeah, it is nothing. The highest is Chrome but that's only 400-500 mb at most. Yet my task manager shows that almost all of my 8gb of RAM is being used.
Restarting the computer fixes it though. But it is just temporary.
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Yeah, it is nothing. The highest is Chrome but that's only 400-500 mb at most. Yet my task manager shows that almost all of my 8gb of RAM is being used.
Restarting the computer fixes it though. But it is just temporary.
I posted this thread yesterday, but I still havent found a definitive answer
The room I'm in has no grounded outlets. I've already talked to the landlord and grounding everything is out of the question for now (I'm not in the US).
Last week I built a PC, the thing is that when I touch the case's panel screws, or my keyboard (it has an aluminum panel) I can feel a bit of current/static going through it. I checked all wires and connections so there's nothing dangling or touching the case. Could the PSU be at fault? Or is it a consequence of the ungrounded outlet? No other appliances do this.
The room I'm in has no grounded outlets. I've already talked to the landlord and grounding everything is out of the question for now (I'm not in the US).
Last week I built a PC, the thing is that when I touch the case's panel screws, or my keyboard (it has an aluminum panel) I can feel a bit of current/static going through it. I checked all wires and connections so there's nothing dangling or touching the case. Could the PSU be at fault? Or is it a consequence of the ungrounded outlet? No other appliances do this.
Something that absolutely bugs the shit out of me are programs where you click on the "X" to close them and instead of closing they just minimize into the system tray.
Mainly storefronts. Kudos to Ubi's for their app actually closing when I tell it to close.
Listen, if I wanted to minimize I would have hit the minimize button.
Is there some kind of program or setting in windows to stop this behavior? One that makes it so when you hit the "close application" button, it actually does what you tell it to?
Mainly storefronts. Kudos to Ubi's for their app actually closing when I tell it to close.
Listen, if I wanted to minimize I would have hit the minimize button.
Is there some kind of program or setting in windows to stop this behavior? One that makes it so when you hit the "close application" button, it actually does what you tell it to?
Sometimes you can go into settings and change it to close the program completely; if the setting is available it's usually defaulted to minimize to system tray. Epic Games Launcher has this setting.
I just had the weirdest fix for a game I've had to do yet:
I started playing Ni No Kuni 2, and I was getting a stutter every 5 seconds on the dot. I did troubleshooting on it for about two hours trying everything to get it to go away. I did a ton of googling, and eventually saw someone say that the game stuttered on their machine if they played it through DisplayPort.
I was using my TV that was hooked up through HDMI and I wasn't displaying anything on my monitor which is hooked up through DisplayPort. On a whim I tried disconnecting my monitor, and the stutters went away. It turns out I can just turn off my monitor and the stuttering stops in the game.
Not only is that the first time in decades of PC gaming I've ever had to physically turn off an inactive display to stop bad behavior in an app, but it also has me questioning whether or not it might be something wrong with my computer.
When I play any other games on my monitor, I don't get any stutter though. It works great. And of course no other games I play on my TV have this issue if my monitor is on but not set to display anything.
This is using a 1070ti with my 1080p monitor on displayport and a Series 6 TCL connected to the HDMI port.
I started playing Ni No Kuni 2, and I was getting a stutter every 5 seconds on the dot. I did troubleshooting on it for about two hours trying everything to get it to go away. I did a ton of googling, and eventually saw someone say that the game stuttered on their machine if they played it through DisplayPort.
I was using my TV that was hooked up through HDMI and I wasn't displaying anything on my monitor which is hooked up through DisplayPort. On a whim I tried disconnecting my monitor, and the stutters went away. It turns out I can just turn off my monitor and the stuttering stops in the game.
Not only is that the first time in decades of PC gaming I've ever had to physically turn off an inactive display to stop bad behavior in an app, but it also has me questioning whether or not it might be something wrong with my computer.
When I play any other games on my monitor, I don't get any stutter though. It works great. And of course no other games I play on my TV have this issue if my monitor is on but not set to display anything.
This is using a 1070ti with my 1080p monitor on displayport and a Series 6 TCL connected to the HDMI port.
Random thing I was wondering about, in add and remove programs (Windows 8), at the bottom of the window it gives the total number of programs that are currently installed, and the total size. When it comes to the total size, what is included in that size? For instance, for me right now it says the total size is 21.6 GB but I can tell you right now that far more space on both HDD and SSD are taken up than a merely 21.6 GBs
I have X-Plane 11 installed for example, that alone takes up nearly 80 GBs...
I have X-Plane 11 installed for example, that alone takes up nearly 80 GBs...
Don't know where else to ask this, so. I'm going to spend a few weeks at my family's vacation home and would like to bring my desktop with me. However, the humidity there is around 65-70% instead of the 45-55% where I'm living atm. Should I be concerned about any possible damage to my PC? I tried checking the manual for my mobo/CPU/GPU but couldn't find any reference to a specific humidity threshold.
I guess 'it depends' but I used to live in a very humid apartment and the PC was fine
I posted this in the stupid gaming questions thread (couldn't find this one), but I'll post it here.
Does MSI Afterburner work with AMD cards like the 5600/5700 XT? I use Afterburner with a GTX 1060 and if I upgraded to an AMD card in the future (Navi 2 rather than current cards), could I still use it? Or is there an AMD equivalent I need to use instead?
Does MSI Afterburner work with AMD cards like the 5600/5700 XT? I use Afterburner with a GTX 1060 and if I upgraded to an AMD card in the future (Navi 2 rather than current cards), could I still use it? Or is there an AMD equivalent I need to use instead?
I could use some advice about my display setup and ease of navigation. I have a 2080 ti that's outputting to two monitors and a TV. The TV output is only really necessary when I'm playing a game on it so my question is what's the easiest way to set this up so I can easily switch to the TV as the primary output device when I want to game on it while not putting unnecessary stress on my card by outputting to the TV when not using it or to both monitors when I am using the TV.
Hope that makes sense and thanks in advance for the help
Hope that makes sense and thanks in advance for the help
I usually just use the Windows Project shortcut with Windows key + P. You can select from the list that pops up to be solo, extended, or second screen only. Works for me without too many issues.
Windows + p wasn't exactly giving me what I want but I found a solution for me. Here it is should anyone else have a similar question.
This app for video switching:
Monitor Profile Switcher
Download Monitor Profile Switcher for free. Save and easily switch between Windows multi monitor configurations. Save monitor configurations of Windows 7 or 10 and easily switch between them with a click in a popup menu of your taskbar. The tool is designed for users with two or more monitors...
sourceforge.net
and this one for audio switching
Audio Switcher
Audio Switcher is a free application for Windows that helps you to change or switch default audio devices.
audioswit.ch
Mapping a few hotkeys gets me exactly what I want very easily.
So i built a computer for the living room to use on the 4k TV.
I am also building a pretty beefy computer for the computer room (impulse buy) to upgrade the PC from 2011
With these two PCs i'll be satisfied for years i think.
Anyway as this will be only my 2nd build i'm a little nervous about the CPU cooler on this build.
I'm going with the Ryzen 7 3700x and it comes with the Wraith Prism cooler.
I've watched a few youtube videos and it seems you have to apply an uncomfortable amount of force.
So my question is how hard are these coolers to install? Thanks.
I am also building a pretty beefy computer for the computer room (impulse buy) to upgrade the PC from 2011
With these two PCs i'll be satisfied for years i think.
Anyway as this will be only my 2nd build i'm a little nervous about the CPU cooler on this build.
I'm going with the Ryzen 7 3700x and it comes with the Wraith Prism cooler.
I've watched a few youtube videos and it seems you have to apply an uncomfortable amount of force.
So my question is how hard are these coolers to install? Thanks.
Not hard at all. You do have to use some force but it's not hurting anything
Is there any way to have control over non-addressable RGB fans? I connected them on my case's RGB chip (I don't know the proper name for that). Not sure if I was supposed to do that, as the chip has a 3-pin connector and the fans cables have the standard 4-pin connector intended for the RGB header, but... it's working. I'm stuck with blue and can't change the color, though. Connecting the same fans to the RGB header gives me an orange color.
For the record, the fans in question are two MF120L, from Cooler Master.
I know your question has already been answered, but just to reassure: I have the exact same processor/cooler and it isn't that hard. You do have to apply some force, but the cooler *is* supposed to be positioned very firmly on top of the processor/mobo.
Lower the two sides of the clip so they grip into the mobo brackets, turn the lever and voilà -- you're good to go. :)
For the record, the fans in question are two MF120L, from Cooler Master.
I know your question has already been answered, but just to reassure: I have the exact same processor/cooler and it isn't that hard. You do have to apply some force, but the cooler *is* supposed to be positioned very firmly on top of the processor/mobo.
Lower the two sides of the clip so they grip into the mobo brackets, turn the lever and voilà -- you're good to go. :)
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So I'm coming back to Windows after a long, long time away with either no PC or using exclusively a Mac. Like.....from Windows 98 long ago.
From what I gather, the Microsoft Store is a joke. I would prefer if all my apps didn't come from their at this point. It's nice for updates, but I'm confused as to how it works. I've downloaded a couple applications from places that are NOT the store but find that they are now in the download queue for updates in the MS Store.
Is there some kind of trick or guide out there to completely sever the cord complete? And how I can just do everything without the Store (excluding system updates, I suppose?)
And I've noticed that the Store installs apps in a weird, hidden file location that isn't with the rest of them. How can I fix this so that it's all uniform? Will this stop apps I downloaded from elsewhere to keep updating? Ugh....sorry I know this is all nitpicky but it bothers me!!
From what I gather, the Microsoft Store is a joke. I would prefer if all my apps didn't come from their at this point. It's nice for updates, but I'm confused as to how it works. I've downloaded a couple applications from places that are NOT the store but find that they are now in the download queue for updates in the MS Store.
Is there some kind of trick or guide out there to completely sever the cord complete? And how I can just do everything without the Store (excluding system updates, I suppose?)
And I've noticed that the Store installs apps in a weird, hidden file location that isn't with the rest of them. How can I fix this so that it's all uniform? Will this stop apps I downloaded from elsewhere to keep updating? Ugh....sorry I know this is all nitpicky but it bothers me!!
I've got a pair of unused PCIe 2.0 1x slots on my motherboard, and a handful of 120GB SSDs. It looks like a PCIE 2.0 1x slot would top out at 250MB/s. It seems like it wouldn't be worth slotting in a PCIe to SATA card to get these SSDs plugged in, or am I overlooking something?
Would I be any better of swapping my connections around, throwing my two HDDs onto the PCIe SATA card, and moving the SSD's onto the mobo's ports?
Unless an app you need or want is only available on the store, you never need to open it. What sorta stuff are you looking to install/use? There's likely an alternative, or just a native win32 download you could likely use instead of using the store.
Would I be any better of swapping my connections around, throwing my two HDDs onto the PCIe SATA card, and moving the SSD's onto the mobo's ports?
Unless an app you need or want is only available on the store, you never need to open it. What sorta stuff are you looking to install/use? There's likely an alternative, or just a native win32 download you could likely use instead of using the store.
It was comfortably the easiest CPU cooler installation I've ever done, didn't really require all that much force.
What is the best way to go about streaming my PC Games to the living room TV? I'd need something to run Steam Link or similar, right?
I have an ol' Roku TV that I use for Netflix and that like but it is not available on that.
I have an ol' Roku TV that I use for Netflix and that like but it is not available on that.
Anyone have recommendations for good gaming mouse that doesn't run into double click or just click problems in general after a year?
I've had my Logitech G Pro wireless for about that long and the left click is all kinds of fucked. I blow can of air under the buttons which fixes it for about 20 minutes and then have to do it again. Very annoying for such an expensive mouse :(
I've had my Logitech G Pro wireless for about that long and the left click is all kinds of fucked. I blow can of air under the buttons which fixes it for about 20 minutes and then have to do it again. Very annoying for such an expensive mouse :(
It's time for a good ol' cleanup. Can anyone recommend a decent duplicate file detection program? I wanna sniff out all the doubles of images and docs and give my data drive a digital spleen flenzing.
This is very frustrating. I recently plugged in my Dualshock and ran a Cloud Core HyperX headset through the DS4 to get sound.
But when I default back to PC audio, my mic stops working. Now my mic doesnt work in games, even though it definitely still works so its not a hardware issue.
Ive had this problem before and I dont know how i fixed it. I checked every standard solution: disabling and updating drivers, setting as default, etc.
My headset runs through a splitter cable and plugs into the front (RealTek Audio), into a separate headphone and microphone jack.
It seems somehow it screwed up when I ran it thru the dualshock, which was connected via usb. Can someone plz help me
But when I default back to PC audio, my mic stops working. Now my mic doesnt work in games, even though it definitely still works so its not a hardware issue.
Ive had this problem before and I dont know how i fixed it. I checked every standard solution: disabling and updating drivers, setting as default, etc.
My headset runs through a splitter cable and plugs into the front (RealTek Audio), into a separate headphone and microphone jack.
It seems somehow it screwed up when I ran it thru the dualshock, which was connected via usb. Can someone plz help me
If I store my games on a HDD instead of a SSD, will it impact the games fps/performance outside of load times? For games like apex, halo, indies, etc I'm thinking an ssd is unnecessary and I have many USB ports on my rig
There are only a few games that truly benefit running off a SSD currently, the only one where it's kinda a requirement for now is Star Citizen.
ok thanks. my longtime 4tb HDD was 129 way back when and it still works on my xbox. it's 80 now and i need it for pc
No problem, sounds good. You could also get an additional 128-250gb SSD and use it as a SSD-cache for your HDDs with something like Primocache: https://www.romexsoftware.com/en-us/primo-cache/
I'm currently testing the free month myself and the results ain't that bad so far.
I have an m2 and I don't think my aurora r9 supports more m2 or sata
Haven't used Windows in a while, just finished building a computer.
Every time I open one of the top three programs here, Windows asks me if I want to let that program make changes to my computer. Is there a way to have it stop asking me that? Run as administrator or something like that?
I see that I can turn this type of notification off entirely in the Windows settings, but I just want to whitelist these three programs for now if that's possible.
Every time I open one of the top three programs here, Windows asks me if I want to let that program make changes to my computer. Is there a way to have it stop asking me that? Run as administrator or something like that?
I see that I can turn this type of notification off entirely in the Windows settings, but I just want to whitelist these three programs for now if that's possible.
Haven't used Windows in a while, just finished building a computer.
Every time I open one of the top three programs here, Windows asks me if I want to let that program make changes to my computer. Is there a way to have it stop asking me that? Run as administrator or something like that?
I see that I can turn this type of notification off entirely in the Windows settings, but I just want to whitelist these three programs for now if that's possible.
The option is UAC (should be searchable). I'm not aware of any way to easily whitelist programs. Seems it requires a script or scheduled task.
Fellow GSYNC folks;
Anyone else have this weird issue where the "Enable for windowed and full screen mode" setting doesn't seem to save?
It stays on that option while I have Nvidia Control Panel open, but whenever I relaunch it the option goes back to full screen only D:
Anyone else have this weird issue where the "Enable for windowed and full screen mode" setting doesn't seem to save?
It stays on that option while I have Nvidia Control Panel open, but whenever I relaunch it the option goes back to full screen only D:
OP
OP
just in case.... you're hitting "apply" at the bottom right when you check "enable" right?Fellow GSYNC folks;
Anyone else have this weird issue where the "Enable for windowed and full screen mode" setting doesn't seem to save?
It stays on that option while I have Nvidia Control Panel open, but whenever I relaunch it the option goes back to full screen only D:
Ahah aye! It seems to go through after clicking apply, but when I relaunch NCP the full screen only setting reverts, argh
I would like to utilize sleep mode so that I can use wake on lan when I want to stream to my Steam Link. Problem is my case's power LED is really bright and blinks on and off while in sleep mode. Can't I just disable the LED when in sleep mode? Motherboard is an Asrock x570 taichi and I could not find any setting that would do this in bios.
I don't think gsync even works properly (still?) while in windowed mode. Last time I tried it, my monitor's hz counter would fluctuate erratically even when framerate is supposed to be stable, making gsync pointless, so I always ended up just sticking to exclusive fullscreen mode when possible.
Gosh that's frustrating, aye...I just did a test on Rocket League windowed capping frame rate to 141fps. Lo and behold, it does judder! Even with that windowed Gsync setting turned on.
That's another reason to not like recent games shipping without full screen exclusive D: I'm not keen on borderless as is; it tends to judder on a multi display setup when things are active on the other screen (I have to turn off OBS preview when streaming...). And honestly, I find full screen exclusive at native res is quick enough to alt tab out of anyway.
But aye, thanks very much for the heads up :) Such a shame that but at least when it works in full screen, Gsync is utter magic <3
EDIT: Reading up on it, it sounds like only DX12 games support gsync in borderless? I err think anyway, this doesn't all seem terribly well documented D:
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Steam Input is pretty useful, with its community profiles and such.
Curious if anyone here uses a GPU bracket to correct some of the GPU sag cards hVe these days. Are these safe?
One came with my 2070 Super but I had no idea how to install the thing lol. Almost a year later though and the GPU seems to be totally fine, I actually think the power connector is helping hold it up a bit too.
Unplug it? I never connect case LEDs or the reset switch.
I usually swap the power and reset buttons on the case as well. The power button on my case is large and easily pressed, while the reset switch is small, recessed, and requires a bit of force.
I wonder if anyone has any idea about my PC RAM issue:
I recently got my first gaming PC, sometimes randomly when using the thing for gaming I'll notice frame drops in games that shouldn't be dropping - I check task manager and see that suddenly its saying I have 8GB of RAM rather than the installed 16GB.
If I restart it will go back to 16GB.
I've had it where I restart and it doesn't go back to 16GB too for a short while.
I already confirmed both sticks are inserted properly. I reported it to my PC builder (I got a pre-built) and they took it in and sent it back saying they found no issues with my hardware and that it was saying 16GB.
No idea why this sometimes happens. Does anyone have any ideas?
I recently got my first gaming PC, sometimes randomly when using the thing for gaming I'll notice frame drops in games that shouldn't be dropping - I check task manager and see that suddenly its saying I have 8GB of RAM rather than the installed 16GB.
If I restart it will go back to 16GB.
I've had it where I restart and it doesn't go back to 16GB too for a short while.
I already confirmed both sticks are inserted properly. I reported it to my PC builder (I got a pre-built) and they took it in and sent it back saying they found no issues with my hardware and that it was saying 16GB.
No idea why this sometimes happens. Does anyone have any ideas?
They are safe if they have enough leverage. I've seen three types:
- Piggyback (overlays the video card screws)
- Under (uses the expansion slot frame but pushes up the card)
- Stand (A pole or tower sitting on the bottom of the case)
Have you tried swapping the RAM? like put them in each other's DIMM slot? Or if it's a 4 slot board, just moving them both to their respective alternate slots? It wouldn't be the first time I've seen a DIMM slot fail
Thanks for the replies :)
I recently built a new rig with a 2080Ti and the card is so massive and heavy that the front of it looked like it is putting pressure on the PCI Slot. I realized it couldn't be good to put that kind of stress on the PCI Slot & Mobo and found that GPU Brackets existed. Will buy one now, thanks again.
I've got four slots so I'm just gonna assume they're all useable even though 1 is kinda blocked by a CPU fan.
I tried booting with one stick in the two slots that were in-use. Both slots worked with both sticks even when inserted by themselves.
Just for a trial I've put one of them in the third slot I wasn't using before, see if it happens again soon I guess, the issue just seems to happen at random.
Thanks for the suggestion.
So basically modern hardware has 4 DIMM slots, but is dual channel. So what usually happens is that there are "pairs" you need to fill; depending on your motherboard it can differ but for example DIMM_1 and _2 might be the same channel, so you need to fill _1 and _3 or _2 and _4. You could stack it all in one channel but would cut memory bandwidth in half.
So all I'm saying here is make sure they are in separate channels; if you have 4 DIMM slots that means you have two channels and thus two positions for each channel to work with.
Modern motherboards actually use Steel or other reinforced materials on the primary PCI slot to ensure strength. But sag is still a thing as the slot obviously doesn't have the leverage to hold the entire PCB by itself...
After reading what you wrote, and then reading the motherboard manual I am very confused.
My manual seems to say put two sticks in the same channel for best performance.... which is how it was setup when I got it and how I've been having issues.
But you seem to say the opposite, have them in separate channels? This is what I've switched them to now, and it seems fine for time being but this issue tends to come and go at random from my point of view.
Here's what the manual to my motherboard says about the slots https://imgur.com/X1wnvQL
DDR4_1 and DDR4_3 = where I started.
DDR4_1 and DDR4_2 = where they are now.
Something about Dual Channel Mode too, which I can't find out how to enable if I need to be concerned with.
You need your memory in slots 1 and 2 OR 3 and 4. You need 1 stick in each channel.
I'm not sure which slot is blocked by the CPU fan but that'll dictate which you choose. I don't see anything there indicating what you're interpreting about using the same channel. Regardless, that's just now how it works.
I'm not very good at this stuff so I'll take your word for it. As I said I've moved the sticks today to be in slots 1 and 2, one per channel now it seems. Slot 4 is partially blocked by my CPU fan so I wouldn't want to attempt to use it.
I wonder why the company who built the pc for me originally used slots 1 and 3, I only heard good things about them. Maybe a rush due to Covid.
Hopefully this fixes my issue. Thanks for the help!
Just a final point, you don't have to "enable" dual channel mode. The channels simply work like highway lanes, so if you stack two sticks in a channel, you're doubling traffic but the highway isn't any wider. If you have something in each channel, well, now you have two highway lanes.
And yeah, sadly, prebuilders screw this up all the time. Especially the Walmart level ones.