Just see it like I do with all tech issues: If it happened once, it never happened and its fine, if it happens twice, well then you can start worrying :P
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Just see it like I do with all tech issues: If it happened once, it never happened and its fine, if it happens twice, well then you can start worrying :P
I just got my computer back from RMA, shipped accross the country. They replaced the GPU. However, if I plug my kb+m into the front usb ports, whenever I stand up from the couch (and the floor shakes a little bit, shaking the PC a little I'm sure) they both disconnect and then immediately reconnect. I can replicate this 100% of the time. Doesn't happen when I plug into the back ports. Could this just be a loose connection between the case and motherboard? Maybe it got jostled loose just a tiny bit in the shipping process?
Yeah check the front-USB cable and header, it should be an easy fix.
Ok thanks I will check when I get home. If I was gonna have to ship this fuckin thing back again I was about to be SO pissed
You shouldn't have to either way. In the worst case mail the case manufacturer and they will most likely able to hook you up with a new front PCB and/or cable.
So I have a 2060 Super (its a two fan Zotac - mini so one of the cheaper & smaller variants). For the first few months I ran it with a custom fan curve so it pretty much maxed out the fan if the GPU ever hit above 72 degrees.
Since I have done a rebuild I have just let the card manage itself (partly because I was having some issues previously with the fan speed not updating / ramping up). It is much quieter (fan only ever seems to push up to 70% by itself) but the temps have of course gone up, highest recorded temperature after many hours of gaming is 83 degrees.
Anyone got a similar card and could let me know how they are managing their fan profile? I have pretty decent cooling in the case (with some Noctua fans blowing directly onto the card from the side panel), however I think the card is just pretty toasty. Should I be reinstating the fan curve or just leave it (which i would prefer).
Since I have done a rebuild I have just let the card manage itself (partly because I was having some issues previously with the fan speed not updating / ramping up). It is much quieter (fan only ever seems to push up to 70% by itself) but the temps have of course gone up, highest recorded temperature after many hours of gaming is 83 degrees.
Anyone got a similar card and could let me know how they are managing their fan profile? I have pretty decent cooling in the case (with some Noctua fans blowing directly onto the card from the side panel), however I think the card is just pretty toasty. Should I be reinstating the fan curve or just leave it (which i would prefer).
Honestly aslong as you are fine with the noise let the card run like it wants to and maybe just try to undervolt it a little bit. While 83°C is pretty toasty it's still nothing to worry about and within design specifications. Only if you creep up towards the 90-95°C you should slowly start to worry.
I personally have a cheapo GTX 1070 model and was pretty fed-up with the noise at 83°C so eventually I carved and bought this aftermarket cooler that I bolted onto it: https://www.arctic.ac/de_en/accelero-xtreme-iii.html
Now the card is 100% silent all the time and doesn't even reach 70°C under 100% load with an overclock.
Noise levels at stock fan curve are absolutely fine and pretty quiet (I only start to hear it around 75-80% speed). I will take a look at the possibility of applying a slight under-volt to reduce temps, it isn't something I had really considered, cheers!
You're welcome! :) You should have some headroom, my GTX 1070 ran at 1.something V at stock settings yet it manages 1950mhz just fine on 0.900v, by default most cards run higher than they need to to be safe.
You want 1600mhz DDR3 RAM. Something like Corsair CML16GX3M2A1600C9 or HyperX HX316LC10FBK2 would be suitable and is reasonably inexpensive where I am...
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im getting this banner at the top of my twitter.com page now. using Chrome and its up to date.
EDIT: looks like Windows has a numbered update pending for me. this must be it
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Anyone could help me with Wifi troubles?
Wifi works fine on everything, besides my desktop. I am currently using a TP-Link Wifi Adapter 1200mbit and it is fine unless I do not download much or just 1 download. But as soon as I start 2 simultaneous downloads, it gets really "wonky". I can see it losing the connection for 5 seconds, then back. Sometimes the connection is gone for 30 seconds and I have to replug it in and it works fine again.
I first thought it might just turn off the USB for power saving, so I turned that off, but its still doing it. Other Wifi devices in the same room do not lose it and my home wifi network also doesnt break up according to my router and my wife watching stuff from the server, but not having hangups.
I am really not sure whether the whole stick is faulty, my USB ports or there is really a power issue with powering the USB port.
Wifi works fine on everything, besides my desktop. I am currently using a TP-Link Wifi Adapter 1200mbit and it is fine unless I do not download much or just 1 download. But as soon as I start 2 simultaneous downloads, it gets really "wonky". I can see it losing the connection for 5 seconds, then back. Sometimes the connection is gone for 30 seconds and I have to replug it in and it works fine again.
I first thought it might just turn off the USB for power saving, so I turned that off, but its still doing it. Other Wifi devices in the same room do not lose it and my home wifi network also doesnt break up according to my router and my wife watching stuff from the server, but not having hangups.
I am really not sure whether the whole stick is faulty, my USB ports or there is really a power issue with powering the USB port.
Ok, this is CRAZY. I've been testing for a while and the culprit is...static electricity. Its really dry here in the winter, and my couch generates a lot of static. When I stand up I slide across the couch and theres a bit of a static shock. Here's where it gets weird though. I set my mouse about 10 feet away from me (it has a long cord) and my PC is a similar distance away (this is a living room setup). If I generate a static discharge, my mouse disconnects and reconnects. Even from the other side of the room. Is this normal? Should I be worried? Is this a PSU issue?
Alright someone with more knowledge should chime in, all I can tell you any kind of static electricity is bad for electronics, especially PC hardware so you should try to get rid of the static in general. It could very well be the source of your issues.
The thing is, ive had a pc hooked up to this TV for about 8 months too. Then I got this new one, and I had to RMA it but I never had any of these issues with it before. But my house maybe wasnt as staticy until now? This is my first winter here so im unsure
Yeah alot of factors could be at play here. Is there anything you could change as a test, maybe sit somewhere else or remove a carpet?
Does anybody have any experience with putting a GPU in a Lenovo M93P? Was thinking of pairing one with something like a GT1030 as a cheap HTPC/emulation machine
Unless you have the Tiny model, I'd think it should work. Probably want to open it up and make sure it has the physical space for the card. And see what size PSU you've got.
Specs suggest 240W for the SFF desktop version, which can fit a 2-slot low-profile card, and either 280W or 450W for the tower, which can fit full-size cards.
So do I need a card with one of those half height brackets? Thanks
For the SFF version, yes. I think most GT 1030's are low-profile/half-height designs (includes bracket for both).
There are cards up to GTX 1650 in low-profile designs, though those are more expensive, less common.
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Oh nice, you think the PSU would handle it? The GTX 1650 is 75W right?
Looking at the specs, they say 75W, but they also have the same recommended PSU wattage (300W) as they have for the 1030 (a 30W card). I would open up the case, check what size PSU you have (seems like it's 240W), then spec out your estimated max wattage on PCPP. That might tell you if your PSU can handle it.
Depending on your components, it could be close to that 240W limit.
You'd probably be fine. Check YouTube to see if people have done similar builds. There are surprisingly lots of videos out there with people testing all kinds of builds.
I did the same when testing a quad core chip and 1030 into a SFF Dell Optiplex.
Would anyone recommend using powerline adapters for a main pc? I want to have my setup in my room, but there is only one place for the modem to be connected and that is only the living room, tried all the others around the apartment and none worked. I usually get 200mbs connection.
Why are my Windows Game Pass downloads so slow? I currently have a 175 Mbps connection and my download speeds seem to hover between 4 - 6 MB/s while Steam easily hits my max download speeds (~20-22 MB/s)
I think all you can really do is buy a pair and see if it works well for you. I currently use a Netgear 1200 Mbps powerline adapter and don't even get close to those speeds in the rooms where I need it (probably get only around 50 Mbps). I only need it though for streaming to my Steam Link and the signal is cleaner than wifi, despite being slower so that translates into a better, more stable streaming experience for me.
power line works great in most situations. If they are on the same circuit it's the best. If it has to go through the panel box then it can loose a lot of speed.
So basically test it out and if its good then Im good to go, lol alright thanks guys.
Figured I'd ask here. I'm playing some Lego games (DC Super Villains and LotR) and in both switching to 4K also makes the image zoom into the upper quarter. Does anyone know what this issue is and how to fix it?
Also why don't many games seem to support 4K with framerates over 60hz (and why doesn't my computer support it?) I'm using a HDMI 2.1 cable on a capable TV yet for most applications the option just doesn't seem to be available. I think it works in Sunset Overdrive for some reason but I'm not sure.
Any help would be much appreciated!
Also why don't many games seem to support 4K with framerates over 60hz (and why doesn't my computer support it?) I'm using a HDMI 2.1 cable on a capable TV yet for most applications the option just doesn't seem to be available. I think it works in Sunset Overdrive for some reason but I'm not sure.
Any help would be much appreciated!
Most likely your gpu does not support 4k above 60hz over hdmi. Also, what TV do you have that supports 4K above 60hz?
Make sure the image is being scaled correctly. If you have an Nvidia GPU for example, open up the Nvidia Control Panel, navigate to "Adjust desktop size on position" on the left hand side, and under the scaling tab select "Full-screen" as well as "override the scaling mode set by games and programs" (maybe have the scaling performed by GPU but it's optional).
If you're in borderless windowed mode, try full screen. Sometimes that does the trick too.
Well, it's still possible to output 4K/120hz with none HDMI2.1 gpu:s.
The poster said they had a HDMI 2.1 TV, which means they have a LG OLED from last year, which only accept 4k/120hz via a HDMI 2.1 output. No GPUs provide this yet.
Samsung's TVs from last year can accept 4k/120hz at a reduced colour space via HDMI 2.0, but the poster said they had a HDMI 2.1 TV which rules this out (as the LGs can only do this via a proper HDMI 2.1 output).
Ah, OK. I figured that my GPU would support it but I guess not. Thanks!
That fixed the issue completely! Thanks a bunch :)
So, it's been many years since I had a gaming PC - maybe 6+ years? Seems like some things have changed.
I just built a new HTPC with an RTX 2060 connected to my 4K LG OLED and am kicking the tires and ran into a few things which seem odd.
Seems like I'm missing something obvious across all these weird issues but I'm not sure what it might be.
I just built a new HTPC with an RTX 2060 connected to my 4K LG OLED and am kicking the tires and ran into a few things which seem odd.
- My desktop resolution is just 1080p instead of 4k (see #4), but I'd like to run some games above 1080p. So I load up Apex Legends and it seems like the highest resolution I can select is my desktop resolution? I'm using Full Screen mode, not Full Screen Windowed. Is this a new thing in Windows 10 recently, where I need to set my desktop resolution higher if I want games to run higher?
- In Apex Legends I tried triple buffered vsync and adaptive vsync in Apex Legends, but both still result in a ton of screen tearing. I have the latest NVIDIA drivers installed and everything is set to default settings / application controlled. Why might that be?
- I loaded up trusty ol' Crysis at 1080p / Highest settings / Full Screen and it seemed choppy - but then I went into Windowed mode instead of Full Screen it was smooth as butter
- When my TV was connected to the PC's integrated graphics before I got the 2060, I could do 1080p / 120Hz on the desktop, which was really nice. But now that the TV is hooked up to the GPU's HDMI slot, I can only do 60Hz at all resolutions. Not as nice :-(
Seems like I'm missing something obvious across all these weird issues but I'm not sure what it might be.
Does the TV support VRR? From what I got (I don't own a LG TV myself) they can either do 4k 60hz or 1080p (or 1440p?) 120hz so whatever you set on the hz might limit your resolution.
Try to set resolution and refresh-rate in the Nvidia Control Panel, not Windows itself, also in the Nvidia Control Panel make sure you use the second 1080p resolution, not the first one in the list, the second should have higher refresh-rates to select, don't select the one under Ultra-HD, HD, SD:
Select the one under PC:
That's how I can select higher refresh-rates on my MSI monitor atleast. I hope that helps a bit! Oh and also make sure your HDMI cable can actually push your resolutions and is the right version.
I've used the "Move install folder" option in Steam to move a game from my C drive to my D drive. And yet, Windows 10 still shows it as installed on my C drive. The files are physically on my D drive, the disk usage is accurate, but under Apps and Features it's still listed as installed on my C drive. Any way to remedy this? It doesn't really make a difference since the files are where they're supposed to be and everything works properly, but it annoys me that Windows isn't reporting the correct installation drive here. Also, what's the deal with all Steam games not showing install size under Apps and Features in Windows 10?
There's a faint white-ish horizontal line I just noticed in the bottom left hand corner of my monitor. Anyone have any idea what it is?
Its definatley the monitor since its noticeable when I use my Switch and when I play Binding of Isaac through Steam[/MEDIA]
Its definatley the monitor since its noticeable when I use my Switch and when I play Binding of Isaac through Steam[/MEDIA]
Since Steam games aren't necessarily "installed" the same way a normal app is, the app list you see in Windows is completely reliant on what kind of information Steam shares about each game. I'd guess this is just a slip where they forgot to update the location folder; but as you said it's just for show since the uninstall command is simply "Steam.exe -uninstall appID" so the folder is of no relevance here.
I'd assume it's the same thing for install size; i.e. merely something Steam doesn't share for whatever reason.
If it bugs you enough, you can edit or delete entries in Apps and Features through the registry.
I highly recommend NZXT. I just bought a build from them and there builds are fantastic and their pricing is fair for what you get.
Thanks for the replies! I don't think it bothers me enough to go registry diving, but I appreciate getting the answers nonetheless.
