Sounds like it could be a micophonics issue, usually due to cables moving around. It's more noticeable with some models of headphones and their cables than others. Might be due to that Y-splitter you're using.
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Sounds like it could be a micophonics issue, usually due to cables moving around. It's more noticeable with some models of headphones and their cables than others. Might be due to that Y-splitter you're using.
If you are using HDMI, you probably have to install the latest video drivers.
It's possible that you have to do the same thing for on-board audio too, though I find that Windows' generic drivers work for most.
I'm having a weird issue since I installed a third harddrive, happens at random seemingly, but it now happened 2 days in a row and I'm kinda worried
...
It definitely started happening the day installed the third harddrive though, pretty weird.
So what happens, I watch some videos on either drive, doesn't matter if it's the new one or not.
Movie stops playing, sound still plays for a few seconds, and the PC completely freezes except the mouse cursor still works...
Any idea what could be causing this and how to fix it?
Crystaldisk says good for all drives so it's probably not a harddrive issue necessarily?
...
It definitely started happening the day installed the third harddrive though, pretty weird.
So what happens, I watch some videos on either drive, doesn't matter if it's the new one or not.
Movie stops playing, sound still plays for a few seconds, and the PC completely freezes except the mouse cursor still works...
Any idea what could be causing this and how to fix it?
Crystaldisk says good for all drives so it's probably not a harddrive issue necessarily?
What's your PSU, and what is your hardware set-up? Might be the new HD just raised the required power above what the PSU can constantly push?
Oh good call, I thought of that too
PSU is 500w silver bequiet, Ryzen 3 2200G , 1060 6GB 8GB DDR4 2933MHz RAM, 1 ssd, 2 sshds, 4 fans, DS4, m+kb...
PSU should be enough, not sure?
PS: I mean it's weird it only happened while playing videos so far...
Games are fine.
Yeah, I would've thought it'd be enough, but not quite sure what else it could be. Maybe open the case up and check connections? Also have you checked Event Viewer for Critical/Error/Warning events?
Yeah last time I did look in event viewer, the only critical error is "system shut down unexpectedly" which I interpret is because I used the reset button since nothing else would work except the mouse cursor.
Not sure where else I could be looking for errors.
Hmmm... Nah, that's about where I'd expect it to give an error message. Hmmmm. Dunno. I'll have a think about it, and if something else occurs to me, I'll post.
I did a check on the new SSHD, it had one error windows repaired (something with index I think)
But what's also weird my other 2 harddrives, evo 860 and Seagate BarraCuda are considerably slower than they should (I think)
So could it also be the connectors on the motherboard or the motherboard itself somehow?
I just think it's concerning all 3 harddrives more or less suddenly have "issues"...
PS: now that I think about it the new harddrive which is definitely faster than the other two in relation is connected with a new sata cable I bought from Amazon, the other two harddrives are connected with the sata cables that came with the PSU... so I probably should try to replace those with other cables too.
Because something seems fishy for sure.
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So it has been a loooong time since I've built a new computer. I've been trying to do alot of research on building my next gaming/3D rendering computer. This is what I have so far:
https://pcpartpicker.com/user/DB3D/saved/
I chose the i-9 mostly because I have one at work and it renders extremely fast. I am a little scared to go down the Ryzen path unless it really is worth the money? I am also so confused with video cards these days. The 1080s still seem to be around 800 dollars and really hard to find brand new. Would it be more worth it to get a 1070 TI and wait it out until the 1080s come down in price?
https://pcpartpicker.com/user/DB3D/saved/
I chose the i-9 mostly because I have one at work and it renders extremely fast. I am a little scared to go down the Ryzen path unless it really is worth the money? I am also so confused with video cards these days. The 1080s still seem to be around 800 dollars and really hard to find brand new. Would it be more worth it to get a 1070 TI and wait it out until the 1080s come down in price?
I believe the 1080 (and TI) price issues are because Nvidia aren't making them anymore in favor of the 20 series, and theoretically aren't going to come back down. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong.
Also in terms of Ryzen, with the 3 series coming out in a few months, it seems like they might finally close gap in gaming performance, but they're generally known to be a bit better than intel in workstation set ups along with a better price to performance. That is, until the 9900k, which I believe has equal if not better benchmarks than the high end ryzen... but is also more expensive.
I actually did just put a 9700k / 1070ti build together at work, and for broadcast video it's more than enough and does render things pretty damn quickly. Went for a 1070ti for the very reason of not being about to find 1080 series cards priced well and RTX offered little more benefit for the price range I was looking at. So I can't argue against that set up
I just don't want to go down the Ryzen road if programs aren't fully utilizing the processor or things aren't stable. I'd rather pay the extra for an i-9 and have things be stable. But really it sounds like if I want to build a computer in the next 1-2 months I really should just go for Mid-end PC because the prices for everything else is ridiculously high. One more question: Is it worth trying to setup a two 1070ti sli setup for potential GPU rendering? Does that even do much for games though?
Yeah I've tried to keep an eye on Ryzen but the gaming stuff is what I really care about for personal use and since I know intel and don't want the headache at work of figuring something new out i continue down that path. That said, the 3 series and the new architecture is what I'm really going keep an eye on for whenever I do update my computer maybe sometime later next year.
I've never really paid much attention to SLI because everything I heard was not many games took full advantage of it. In terms of rendering I looked into that even less, so it's outside of my immediate knowledge.
Ryzen works fine for gaming but the power behind a lot of the marketing is in non-gaming practices. Outside of the high end, high powered Intels you can usually find a Ryzen equivalent in power, but it's ultimately a personal choice. Rendering video and other functions can have benefits with a Ryzen processor. You'd want to look up reliable benchmarks, but as FHIZ said, if your focus is mostly gaming people tend to go Intel.
As for the 1070/1070 TI vs the 1080/1080 TI, I know I've heard production has stopped on the 1080s, not to mention those who want high end and don't trust the RTX models (there have been some concerns although I'm pleased with my 2080 so far). The price spike is so high that if you aren't interested in the new RTX line you're probably going to get a 1070 TI (which comes quite close to a 1080) or lower. A 2070 will give you 1080 power for about $500. As for SLI, that's something that either the game takes advantage of or doesn't and it's been my experience that you don't notice how small that list is until you start checking all your games for it. When a game does have it, you get great performance, but when it doesn't you're basically working with only half the power you paid for. It works well when it's supported. As always, you'll want to research and compare the games that support it (and how well) to your library of games. I usually just buy a beefier single card because it's easier that way.
If you did budget the $800 for a 1080 TI, unless you have hangups I'd recommend a 2080. It'll usually have the same performance and it's got ray tracing and DLSS if you want to play with new tech (Digital Foundry did an excellent video if you want to learn about these new cards: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pgEI4tzh0dc). The 9700K can also handle use cases if you want to stream, run high frame rates, or do plenty of things outside of gaming.
What's your motherboard and OS, and what are you using to play videos? Have you tried a different player?
Msi B350 mortar, win 10 pro, windows movie player. But this only started to happen since I installed the 3rd harddrive.
I think I isolated the issue, like I said the BarraCuda SSHD and the Samsung SSD are suddenly randomly much slower than they should be, almost 30 times too slow going by crystaldisk mark.
The problem is I don't know how to fix this or what's causing it , I can't imagine both harddrives that already were in the pc suddenly broke / semi broke.
Maybe really a motherboard / psu issue because I installed that third harddrive?
Here's my BarraCuda SSHD - it's really beyond slow in anything but sequential writes suddenly?
and here's my third harddrive I installed, a Toshiba SSHD, which shows speeds as expected in crystaldisk mark
My screen goes black when I try to set it to any desktop resolution but native. I want to set it to 1080 so that "windowed fullscreen" in games is actually fullscreen on 1080p and for performance reasons.
Monitor is Asus MG278Q (1440p/144Hz), connected with DisplayPort
GPU is GTX1060 6Gb with newest drivers.
Any ideas?
EDIT: solved it.
Monitor is Asus MG278Q (1440p/144Hz), connected with DisplayPort
GPU is GTX1060 6Gb with newest drivers.
Any ideas?
EDIT: solved it.
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Does anybody know of a way in Firefox to set a font for a specific website without focing that same font elsewhere?
From what I've gathered there's either an option to use the default font the website calls for or an option to set a font that applies to all websites.
The problem I'm having is that one site I use to generate reports has Arial (or some other Sans-Serif font) as its default font but the reports look a lot better in something like Times New Roman. Forcing all sites to use Times solves the issue for this site, but it breaks the reports I have to generate from a few Court sites. Also, the database we use at work defaults to a Sans-Serif font but it makes some names illegible because it makes "I" look the same as "l".
Basically I want to use the Times font on two specific sites without focring everything else to use Times as well.
But I'm having an impossible time figuring out how to do this myself.
It seems like something that'd be easy to do...and maybe it is but I'm not good with computer.
Any help would be super appreciated. :)
From what I've gathered there's either an option to use the default font the website calls for or an option to set a font that applies to all websites.
The problem I'm having is that one site I use to generate reports has Arial (or some other Sans-Serif font) as its default font but the reports look a lot better in something like Times New Roman. Forcing all sites to use Times solves the issue for this site, but it breaks the reports I have to generate from a few Court sites. Also, the database we use at work defaults to a Sans-Serif font but it makes some names illegible because it makes "I" look the same as "l".
Basically I want to use the Times font on two specific sites without focring everything else to use Times as well.
But I'm having an impossible time figuring out how to do this myself.
It seems like something that'd be easy to do...and maybe it is but I'm not good with computer.
Any help would be super appreciated. :)
My PC has been randomly locking up completely for a while now and I still have not been able to find a solution. I'm running a freshly installed version of Windows 10. I have checked my RAM, SSD, and HDD and they all seem fine. I've been checking to make sure my CPU is not overheating as well. I also used a tool to check my driver's for conflicts but that came back clean too. The worst part is that it happens out of the blue. I can be doing nothing except running Discord and it will just completely lock up until I fully reboot the machine.
Any suggestions? I'm worried it's a critical hardware issue.
Any suggestions? I'm worried it's a critical hardware issue.
You can use an extension like Stylish. It allows for customizing everything for a specific domain or address.
It's not the most straight forward solution though, but I think you can find some basic Stylish scripts that alters the font on Google or userstyles.org.
Sounds like a hardware issue, but have you checked event viewer in Windows?
Tried booting with only one RAM?
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This could be better in the Steam thread, but it's a stupid question so I'll put it here. With Steam broadcasting, can it harm the perfomance of the stream if maximum bitrate by the broadcaster is set "too high"? There's constant pauses on my friend's stream even though she streams with 480p quality.
Oh, most definitely. It's mostly limited by your connection but dropped frames is mainly caused by the bitrate being too high.
I'm hearing a buzzing sound in some games (Most games, but it seems to vary in severity) that seems like it's coming from my GPU. It doesn't seem like it's related to performance, though I have had occasional crashes.
The weirdest thing about it is that it starts loud, then seems to get quieter if you stick it out. It also changes depending on what's on screen; if my fps were to drop to zero during a load for instance, the sound would also stop (Fans don't stop in such a situation, which makes me believe it isn't fan related). I have vsync on, so I don't think it's related to super high fps. Maybe it's related to power draw given that it seems tied to what's on screen? My GPU is not OCed. (It's a 1080).
Lastly, often, if I play for a while, the buzz gets quieter and goes away completely. A recent example would be RE2 played at 90% of 4k with mostly high settings, at mostly 60fps. It would sometimes buzz a bit in the menu, but within a minute or two of play, there was no noise. Comparatively, Battletech, even at 1080p, often buzzes a lot, and sometimes doesn't seem to stop buzzing.
I've considered that it's potentially a problem with my PSU? But I really don't know. Diagnosis suggestions?
The weirdest thing about it is that it starts loud, then seems to get quieter if you stick it out. It also changes depending on what's on screen; if my fps were to drop to zero during a load for instance, the sound would also stop (Fans don't stop in such a situation, which makes me believe it isn't fan related). I have vsync on, so I don't think it's related to super high fps. Maybe it's related to power draw given that it seems tied to what's on screen? My GPU is not OCed. (It's a 1080).
Lastly, often, if I play for a while, the buzz gets quieter and goes away completely. A recent example would be RE2 played at 90% of 4k with mostly high settings, at mostly 60fps. It would sometimes buzz a bit in the menu, but within a minute or two of play, there was no noise. Comparatively, Battletech, even at 1080p, often buzzes a lot, and sometimes doesn't seem to stop buzzing.
I've considered that it's potentially a problem with my PSU? But I really don't know. Diagnosis suggestions?
Sounds like coil whine to me. It's likely harmless. Somewhat common, look it up and compare it to the sounds you're hearing
Yeah it's not just dropped frames. But the broadcast simply stops on my end and I get the Valve loading logo for a while until the broadcast resumes. It's weird that it didn't seem to help at all to drop the stream quality, she also chose the optimize encoding for perfomance option.
It's a bummer, I've broadcasted without problems and I've watched few of my other friends to broadcast without problems. I guess it's possible she just doesn't have enough bandwith for upload. She wasn't sure what kind of connection they have when I asked. I'll ask her to do a speedtest when she's back.
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120 mm case fans have standard sized screws? I lack a few screws but don't know if all of them use the same
So a few weeks back i posted here about my pc not booting up as fast as it would a few years back. So i started poking my head in the case and noticed my ram modules werent in slot 1 and 2 and were in 3 and 4. Apparently i missplaced them when i cleaned my pc recently. So if you think your pc boots kinda slow you should probably double check your ram modules placement.
That is very interesting as this _theoretically_ shouldn't have any kind of speed impact o.o
It's similar. I've considered this as a possibility too. It's just gotten seemingly worse over time though, or at least in some scenarios, which is what was throwing me.
Honestly i just did because i tested everything else and was kinda like sure why not. I really dont know why it worked but it did. Before i did this it would take a little longer than usual to initiate the bios process(i mean the motherboard startup screen).
I'm having a weird issue I've never had before.
I went to install Japanese IME on my new computer and it kept failing. It appears it's a result of Windows Update failing to install 1809 correctly. The weird thing is, my version is set as 1809, and every single fix and step-by-step guide I've taken to solve the problem (through nearly 3 pages of google searching and microsoft knowledge base troubleshooting) has not cleared the issue, including running suggested powershell commands, deleting the softwaredistribution files, and running troubleshooters and manual updates.
So I just can't install Japanese IME on my computer because windows update is permanently broken? Does anyone have any experience with this? My computer works perfectly fine aside from this and I really, really don't want to reinstall windows.
2019-01 Cumulative Update for Windows 10 Version 1809 for x64-based Systems (KB4480116) - Error 0x80070002
I went to install Japanese IME on my new computer and it kept failing. It appears it's a result of Windows Update failing to install 1809 correctly. The weird thing is, my version is set as 1809, and every single fix and step-by-step guide I've taken to solve the problem (through nearly 3 pages of google searching and microsoft knowledge base troubleshooting) has not cleared the issue, including running suggested powershell commands, deleting the softwaredistribution files, and running troubleshooters and manual updates.
So I just can't install Japanese IME on my computer because windows update is permanently broken? Does anyone have any experience with this? My computer works perfectly fine aside from this and I really, really don't want to reinstall windows.
It depends how they are labelled, but you should probably check your motherboard's manual to see whether they are in the correct slots.
You would typically use slots 1 & 3 or 2 & 4, rather than 1 & 2 or 3 & 4.
They're often labelled A1, A2, B1, B2 for that reason; e.g. use A1 & B1 for dual-channel operation.
On my motherboard its something like this:
Ddr3_1
Ddr3_3
Ddr3_2
Ddr3_4
I inserted my ram modules in ddr3_1 and ddr3_2.
So it was actually slots 1 & 3 that fized my problem.
Hmm what board and CPU do you have?
EDIT: I just saw your new post, yeah you weren't running in Dual Channel mode before but I'm surprised the difference was this big.
I have an insane amount of DistributedCOM errors (10016) and a small amount of Kernel-Power errors (41). Not sure about the 10016 errors, but I assume the Kernel-Power errors stem from me having to hard reboot my machine when it locks up.
I have not tried booting with only one stick of RAM but I could give it a shot.
I was surprised aswell honestly lol. But this completely eliminated my problem.
My motherboard is a gigabyte z87-HD3 and my cpu is an i5 4570 if you are still wondering.
Okay now I'm seriously stumped because if you were running a Ryzen build I could see how it makes a massive difference as Ryzen as a platform likes its fast RAM but huh, the more you know. Takeaway of the day, always run in Dual Channel! :P
I've got a question regarding DSRL and Image Quality settings in games.
What's the difference between changing the render resolution of a game via DSRL vs. changing the multiplier on an in-game resolution modifier setting? Like that one in Resident Evil 2 Remake for instance. I use a 1080p monitor and will it be the same thing if I choose DSRL 1.5x and 1.5x resolution modifier?
What's the difference between changing the render resolution of a game via DSRL vs. changing the multiplier on an in-game resolution modifier setting? Like that one in Resident Evil 2 Remake for instance. I use a 1080p monitor and will it be the same thing if I choose DSRL 1.5x and 1.5x resolution modifier?
What's DSRL? NV's DSR?
It depends on if the game is using the same metric for its 1.5x modifier first.
DSR's modifier counts the resulting number of pixels - thus 1.5x1920x1080=3110440=2351x1323.
Game's modifier can use the same logic or count the increase of resolution on one axis only in which case setting 1.5x in some game will result in downsampling from a much higher resolution - 1.5x1920x1.5x1080=4665600=2880x1620
Then there's the possible difference in resolve filters which may result in a different look of downsampled images between DSR and game's own resolution scaler.
Thank you for your answer. And also, yes, I meant DSR. One last question, I have a 24-inch 1080p monitor, what smoothness setting I should use for DSR?
Up to your preference really. I personally hate all smoothing options of DSR and thus only use 0% smoothing with DSR 4x. But if you want to use lower DSR modifiers then you'll likely want some smoothing as otherwise you'll get staircasing on high contrast edges. Start with the default 33% and see how it will work for you.
Finally finished building my PC. I was a nervous wreck plugging everything in and was terrified it wouldn't boot. Fortunately everything worked and I was able to book Windows 10 off of a flash drive! Only one fan isn't working in the case, it's an odd 3 pin that I can't find a spot for on the motherboard. Ordered a adapter online alone with another HDD to store many less demanding games. My rig is below:
CPU - AMD Ryszen 7 2700x
GPU - GeForce RTX 2080 Overclocked Edition
Motherboard - Gigabyte X470 Aorus Gaming 7 Wifi
Memory - Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 32GB
Storage - Samsun 970 Pro 1TB SSD
Power Supply - Corsair RMX RM650x
Case - Zalman ATX ZM-Z9
Windows 10 64 Bit
I found my blutooth was awful and didn't realize I needed to plug in the wifi extender in the back which also helped my bluetooth. Now everything is running extremely fast. I haven't been in the PC game for years and this was an incredibly fun project.
I tested Battlefield V which came with my GPU - looked really nice. I also tested Crysis maxed out, just because I had to. Also ran amazing.
Now I just need to find a better keyboard for couch gaming when I don't use the DS4.
Any great PC games that really push 4k? I am running it to my 4k HDR TV and so far it's working great. I want to pickup divinity 2 and pillars since those games are more geared for PC.
CPU - AMD Ryszen 7 2700x
GPU - GeForce RTX 2080 Overclocked Edition
Motherboard - Gigabyte X470 Aorus Gaming 7 Wifi
Memory - Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 32GB
Storage - Samsun 970 Pro 1TB SSD
Power Supply - Corsair RMX RM650x
Case - Zalman ATX ZM-Z9
Windows 10 64 Bit
I found my blutooth was awful and didn't realize I needed to plug in the wifi extender in the back which also helped my bluetooth. Now everything is running extremely fast. I haven't been in the PC game for years and this was an incredibly fun project.
I tested Battlefield V which came with my GPU - looked really nice. I also tested Crysis maxed out, just because I had to. Also ran amazing.
Now I just need to find a better keyboard for couch gaming when I don't use the DS4.
Any great PC games that really push 4k? I am running it to my 4k HDR TV and so far it's working great. I want to pickup divinity 2 and pillars since those games are more geared for PC.
So I dusted off my old PC to play some Apex with friends, and I'm running into the same issue I had last time with this setup: everything performs horribly despite my system specs comfortably exceeding what would be needed to run something like Apex.
System specs:
I'm running the game at 1080p, low-medium settings (although putting everything on low doesn't make it notably better). I get 15-17 FPS in the drop, and 20-29 on foot. If I turn off v-sync completely it'll bounce wildly between 20-60, usually staying in the 25-40 window. It's so stuttery and unplayable.
I've completely wiped this machine, restored the SSD and reinstalled a fresh copy of Windows 10. The only software on it is Origin, Chrome and Apex. I have no idea where to even start to fix this; the GPU drivers are up to date, temps look good. Everything seems fine?
System specs:
- Intel Core i7 2600K @3.40GHz, Sandy Bridge 32nm
- 16GB DDR3 RAM @665MHz
- Gigabyte P67A-UD3-B3 (not sure how relevant this is at all, but I have absolutely no idea where to even begin troubleshooting so idk)
- Windforce GTX 970
- Samsung 850 PRO SSD
I'm running the game at 1080p, low-medium settings (although putting everything on low doesn't make it notably better). I get 15-17 FPS in the drop, and 20-29 on foot. If I turn off v-sync completely it'll bounce wildly between 20-60, usually staying in the 25-40 window. It's so stuttery and unplayable.
I've completely wiped this machine, restored the SSD and reinstalled a fresh copy of Windows 10. The only software on it is Origin, Chrome and Apex. I have no idea where to even start to fix this; the GPU drivers are up to date, temps look good. Everything seems fine?
I'd rather not install Origin on my 2500K PC to test it, but there's a few things I'd check:
- What is the dust situation like inside the PC? Has it been cleaned recently? Are you using the stock Intel CPU cooler, or an aftermarket cooler? That Intel design is prone to being clogged with dust.
- Are all the fans working?
- What are the CPU and GPU temperatures like if you use HWiNFO to monitor them? https://www.hwinfo.com/download.php
- What did you do about drivers? You should probably not be installing anything off the website for your motherboard these days, as I doubt it has been updated in over five years. That could cause issues rather than using the drivers included with Windows 10. I would only update your video drivers with the ones from the GeForce website.
I stripped it down and meticulously cleaned everything today before setting it up, so it's pristine inside. No dust, all fans working well. After three 10-15 minute matches (just suffered through to test) the CPU is at 35° celsius, the motherboard is at 33°, GPU 37°, and SSD 27°. I'm using an aftermarket cooler that's a huuuuge heatsink with a separate fan clipped on.
I didn't install any motherboard drivers from the website, just the drivers that were loaded by Windows 10. The 970 was updated with GeForce experience.
Edit: Overclocked to 4.5, got a 5-10 frame boost but it's still performing pretty horrendously.
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Does anyone know the current status of Borderless G-sync? If I turn on the G-Sync indicator and launch KC Deliverance, G-Sync comes on if the game is in Fullscreen mode, but not in Borderless (I have G-Sync set to Fullscreen and Windowed in NVCP). Had heard it was iffy in borderless but I expected it to at least activate.
Overclocking is easy with that generation and newer, as you only have to set the all-core multiplier to a fixed value and leave the FSB/Base Clock at 100MHz.
What gets a bit trickier is stability testing and tuning for the right clock speed/voltages. Generally 1.35V core voltage is considered to be the maximum 'safe' value for those CPUs, and I've been running my 2500K system at that since 2011 without issue.
I believe 4.5GHz is something that the majority of 2500Ks should run stably at that voltage, and 4.4GHz for 2600Ks (a multiplier of 44x).
As for the RAM, I don't know what spec your RAM is, if it's running at the correct speed, but you could also try increasing that to 800MHz or 1600MT/s at 1.5V. Check to see if there is an XMP profile listed for it in the BIOS.
Without going too in-depth on stability testing, if your system can handle Prime95 for 10-15 minutes running a custom 128K FFT test, it's probably going to be fine if you don't want to deal with any further testing.
If you absolutely require complete stability because you are going to be doing things like long rendering tasks or things like important work that could be lost, I wouldn't settle for anything less than at least 24 hours of testing; but that's likely excessive for your needs. You're probably better off doing 10-15 minutes of testing and dropping the multiplier down a notch if the system crashes after that.
Still broken since Windows 10's 1803 update. It activates in far fewer games now, and in those where it does activate, it generally does not produce smooth results as the refresh rate fluctuates considerably even if the frame rate is set to a fixed value using RTSS.